(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 19,409 posts - Hot topic!
  • 866 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 minutes ago by allsportdvd
  • Topic is favorited by 413 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 181 votes
    18%
  • LE 529 votes
    54%
  • SE 66 votes
    7%
  • None 209 votes
    21%

(985 votes)

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

gnr (resized).png
62FD48B5-460F-41BC-A717-378F6FAD3392 (resized).jpeg
E1801488-F481-457E-B5F7-CD85A28850CF (resized).jpeg
468E2C54-A387-4525-8308-F9FA1B7DA6E8 (resized).jpeg
54032EBA-D012-49C3-A3E2-A6637D11371C (resized).jpeg
20220115_175955 (resized).jpg
received_1840587686146296 (resized).jpeg
JJP_GNR_Bats_logo (resized).png
20211223_163039 (resized).jpg
Spinner (resized).jpg
2A210825-5F6B-47E6-B5D9-B02B910FB140 (resized).jpeg
0C022BE5-772D-4423-9AE4-17E60421E8A6 (resized).jpeg
5A1D23E1-7B16-4D73-8221-25DDC7C3E239 (resized).jpeg
C3934692-FBCD-4A52-87D1-8922322D8786 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1454 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1452 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

60 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #34 Feature matrix listing differences for each edition. Posted by Dallas_Pin (1 year ago)

Post #414 GNR Manual - link to JJP site Posted by knobstone (1 year ago)

Post #434 Full Song List Posted by Concretehardt (1 year ago)

Post #755 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Guitar Neck Lock Release tip Posted by kermit24 (1 year ago)

Post #1017 TECH: LIGHTING. Troubleshooting spot light motion issues Posted by wdbthree (1 year ago)

Post #3837 How to use jukebox mode Posted by kermit24 (1 year ago)

Post #5052 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter rod power. Change barrel spring. Posted by WannaPinball (12 months ago)

Post #5235 Scorbit jjGnR integration FAQ Posted by jsa (11 months ago)

Post #5335 Raised small circle inserts on the continents on new playfield Posted by tmfeuerh (11 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mattyk.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

282 posts in this topic match your search for posts by mattyk. You are on page 1 of 2.
#6697 10 months ago

I am seriously contemplating purchasing this pin. For those that have had it long enough to figure out the rules, is it still hard to figure out what to shoot for? As it has been brought up many times, with all the lights it seems like it’s difficult to know what to aim at.

Is there more to this pin than just flailing around in multi ball? It’s hard to find good YouTube videos because of the music copyright garbage

1 week later
#7184 10 months ago

I just put a deposit down for an LE. Scheduled delivery is June. I hope by that time code 1.19 is out and this mess is figured out

#7207 10 months ago

Of the 5,000 LE’s being made, does anyone know what number they are on?

#7217 10 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

They're averaging just under 50 a week, and the CEs are still under 300 shipped, so probably safe to say the sum total made of SE, LE, CEs so far is less than 500.

Thanks. I was trying to gauge how long these would be in production for. Sounds like at least a couple years

#7267 10 months ago

I think this was asked before but not sure it was answered. The music volume during a song seems to cut out whenever there are call outs. Is there a setting to prevent that or a way to tweak it so the song volume doesn’t lower when a call out occurs?

#7301 10 months ago

Sounds like many of your distributors require you to make payments prior to delivery? I guess I am lucky. $250 deposit and rest due at delivery

#7338 10 months ago
Quoted from BozoTheClown:

You will be asked for the rest prior to the machine shipping. They won't ship anything from JJP until the distributor has confirmed 100% payment.

Nope. Bank check handed to the delivery guy when he drops off my game

#7349 10 months ago

Up till today I only had the chance to play the LE. Today I played both the SE and LE. Man, I really felt the gameplay was better on the SE. I could see the playfield better and it was easier to hit the left ramp and left orbit shots. I think the bass guitar rail going down the left side is the biggest issue in terms of playfield visibility...for me anyway. Not sure if others feel the same.
G
I love the light show much more on the LE for obvious reasons, and I do like the upper playfield and guitar locks. My opinion of course, but if the LE did away with the bass guitar rails it would be a perfect layout.

Now I am second guessing the LE vs the SE. I guess I’ll have to make another trip and play some more

#7361 10 months ago

This is a pic of a relatively new SE. I see there are black washers under the sling posts. Does everyone now get these with new deliveries?

CBA021D8-6AE3-425D-A158-71178AD066CA (resized).jpeg
#7374 10 months ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Yep mine has them to with Feb 21 build date. I looked over the entire playfield last night with a flashlight up close while i did full install and every post was perfect and no signs of anything a miss.

Out of curious what code did yours have installed? What is the best code right now? Is it indeed 1.19?

#7380 10 months ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Out of box it had 1.15 and now im running 1.19. Id say 1.19 is the best code since its the newest with no bugs that ive seen and it fixes the wifi issue. 1.15 some of the songs didnt have applause jackpots and 1.16 had reboot issues and 1.17 broke wifi. I never ran 1.18.

Thanks that is helpful

#7601 9 months ago

Oh please. Everyone knows the upper playfield on WWFRR is superior lol

#7672 9 months ago

Wondering if anyone has tried this mod to improve sound quality. If so any issues such as humming or does anyone know if you can screw up the game by trying this?

#7815 9 months ago
Quoted from Av8:

Can I get some opinions on GNR SE? Does it have flow? The videos I watch rarely have combos. I like combos.
Second, What must have Mods are there?
Should I just waiting 4 months for LE?

I played both side by side. I think the LE is worth the additional cost. The light show is head and shoulders better. The upper playfield and guitar lock does not interrupt flow much. I think it’s good to be able to catch your breath for a second as the SE is non stop. Plus with the LE you get the invisiglass, shaker, and external volume and Bluetooth controls.

#7838 9 months ago
Quoted from Stags6969:

Not sure how, but this happened today.
70 million on Paradise City [quoted image]

This is one of my fears with this game. Well, aside from the updating issues lol. I can totally see how you could have these incredibly high scores and then have the same type of game, maybe even play better, and end up with a score that is a fraction of that amount. It all comes down to the booster multiballs and how lucky you are to make shots during multi ball. With that said I can’t wait for mine to come in

1 week later
#8112 9 months ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Theoretical question, what happens if I accidentally install the LE software on my SE via USB?

Some guy did that on Deadpool and he was able to play some features of the LE. I think it was another disco mode. It’s on the owners forum. Not sure if that would work here but given the number of people having trouble updating, I bet at least one person installed the wrong software

#8410 9 months ago

My LE should be getting delivered this weekend. So pumped. Anyone know what size mini flipper rubber to get for the mini playfield? I can either get 1” or 1.25”

I’m also gonna get a few pawls for the flippers in case mine break like other did.

Anything else I should buy for the game while I’m shopping?

#8416 9 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Here's a good kit to get you in the right direction
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5755
I changed whatever was within reach to Titans, still have a couple PL slings and bumbers
The small flipper is listed as mini in the kit
also, I also went with 2 1/4 vs 2 inch for the slings as 2 inch Titans felt too tight, 2 1/4 feel just right to the factory 2 inch

Thanks!

#8554 8 months ago

Anyone know if the magnet issue has been fixed by JJP? For those who had the magnet fail, what did JJP do to fix it? Did they just send a new coil?

#8566 8 months ago

Just wondering if anyone has tried this? For the cost it looks like it’s a no brainer but I haven’t actually seen any videos comparing the sound before and after except for the chart in his video

#8605 8 months ago

Question. I am on code 1.21.

I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.

Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

#8610 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Sounds like the KISS scoop-type switch issue. It was FAMOUS for this when the switch got sloppy. The switch is momentarily registering instead of staying on when the ball goes in. That causes a kickout instead of a song start.

Any fix for this?

#8618 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If it's like KISS, you just have to bend the switch arm up a bit so it doesn't bounce when the ball comes in and stays engaged.

Well I did a switch test and the switch appears to work as it should. Stays engaged. Not sure what is wrong.

Also, do band members get spotted at the star of each ball automatically? For instance, I drain right away without spotting a member, on ball 2 Axl is lit steady. I drain out without hitting anything. On ball 3 Axl, slash, and bass is lit steady?

Is this right?

Any other ideas for the scoop issue is appreciated. Maybe I have a cold solder joint

#8620 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I believe so, similar to how POTC would spot shots for the At Worlds End mode with each ball. It's a nerf to help newbies get to *something* by ball 3.

That’s what I figured. Just trying to rule out switch issues. And just so I am correct, when the song is ready and I shoot the scoop, the ball should not come firing out right away? Like it should stay in there for at least the countdown to either choose a new song or start the one that is displayed.

#8628 8 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

Mine started doing that last week. My tech mate adjusted the switch but it's started doing it again niow.
Shoots a ball out while you are still choosing a song half the time.

Thanks. Sounds like I need to fiddle with it

#8648 8 months ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Mattyk... This was recently brought to my attention by our artist JP... After he sent a video, it looked like it was being caused by the left tramp diverter timing out and disengaging. The force of the diverter was enough to bounce the scoop switch which caused the ball to kick out. I've since added a software fix that is in beta now and will be in next release, but in the meantime do as pinmonk says and bend up the scoop arm a very little bit. This fixed it for JP.
You can test this theory by going into switch test with door open and power off, putting a ball in the scoop, then manually push down and release the left tramp diverter, and notice if switch test says the scoop switch moved.

I appreciate the help. I will test this theory. I have since tried to bend the scoop switch a bit. When I turned the game back on a switch report came back and said that my upper playfield switch at the rubber ring (#38 I think) was closed. I adjusted it. Since then I have not had the scoop eject issue. Fingers are crossed. Maybe PinMonk was right about a switch being too sensitive causing just issue. We’ll see tomorrow.

Thanks so much for looking into this

Matt

#8649 8 months ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Mattyk... This was recently brought to my attention by our artist JP... After he sent a video, it looked like it was being caused by the left tramp diverter timing out and disengaging. The force of the diverter was enough to bounce the scoop switch which caused the ball to kick out. I've since added a software fix that is in beta now and will be in next release, but in the meantime do as pinmonk says and bend up the scoop arm a very little bit. This fixed it for JP.
You can test this theory by going into switch test with door open and power off, putting a ball in the scoop, then manually push down and release the left tramp diverter, and notice if switch test says the scoop switch moved.

I’ll also point out that on one occasion I tried to quickly hit the action button, before the ball ejected from the scoop, to change the song and the game reset. It has only done this once. Code 1.21

#8662 8 months ago
Quoted from jints56:

I can get this to happen every time (1.19 and 1.21). At tank hitting action button and the left/right flipper buttons before song starts. Reset

Are you saying the reset happens when you simultaneously hit the action button with a flipper button at the same time?

In my case, my friend was playing when I hit the action button for him. I’m not sure if he was also holding a flipper button

#8663 8 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

IT HAS ARRIVED!!!!! So close to number 666. But if you ad 3 + 3 thats six, and since there are 2 3's...
[quoted image][quoted image]

My LE is 662. So far my spotlights are working. I feel like it’s a ticking time bomb. I made sure there is enough slack in the wires before playing it.

#8673 8 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Okay, another item on the glitch list...
My right orbit has sucked out of the box, constant hangups and weird flow into the pops...well today I noticed there is a one way gate there but it was stuck open...lifting theplayfield to unjam it, I noticed that the protective clear shielding on my drumsticks is peeling away and the hanging adhesive is binding the gate hinge and locking it in the up position...
Ugh...I know NIB headaches but this is getting ridiculous...Last night, my left flipper coil stop completely flew off and landed in my coinbox, luckily nothing broke but I'm scared to play it now, feels like I'm finding a new issue every day
I know thats nott the case but just feels that was...okay done venting
So I'm, torn, remove the drumsticks myself and put a couple dabs of glue down to hold the lamination in place or contact distro for new drumsticks
[quoted image]

All my coil stops needed tightening. Before playing I went through and was able to tighten them up. I was able to turn them almost 1/2 turn. I probably should have used some thread lock

#8683 8 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Heres my finished re-mylar job: I had to remove the 3 screws holding the drumsticks and the 2 holding the led bracket to give room to work and get a good covering of the new mylar
Superglue will not bond the adhesive and actually the mylar turned out to be a more pro factory look.
Here's the before and after[quoted image][quoted image]

I have the same issue. I didn’t have mylar so I used some small pieces of tape. Seems to hold for now. We’ll see.

#8702 8 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Next question is wifi. My game wont find any wifi networks when there should be like 5 available. anything special to do?

Did you agree to the terms and conditions?

#8703 8 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Question. I am on code 1.21.
I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.
Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

I am gonna call this issue resolved. Seems like my issue was either an upper playfield switch being too sensitive and registering when it shouldn’t, or just a tweak needed on the scoop switch so when the left ramp diverter resets it does not cause a vibration to the scoop switch, resulting in premature ejectultion

#8818 8 months ago

I thought I read that there was a way to adjust the monitor settings such as brightness and resolution. Anyone know where to find these settings?

#8820 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Little buttons on the actual monitor panel. You have to open the backbox.

Thank you

#8823 8 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Reverse that. Try 25-50 Brightness and 75-90 contrast and turn the gamma on (if you have that option) and see how that looks. You want the brightness down as much as possible or you get gray blacks.
I don't have a GnR here to try that firsthand yet, but that should help. Let me know what it looks like with those settings.

Someone here tried 0 brightness and 100 contrast and got good results. I haven’t tweaked mine yet

#8840 8 months ago

Anyone know where I can find a diagram of the the rings including the sizes? I scoured the manual but could not locate it.

#8842 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not in the manual yet.
I'd check Titan's ring database for amount and sizes. https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5755
LTG : )

Thanks. I’ve only had the game about a week and a slingshot ring snapped. lol. Luckily there’s extra in the goodie bag

#8853 8 months ago

I’d love if a future code update included alphabetizing the patches, showing what patches you collected during play without having to enter status report, and showing how much a jackpot you had going after you drain during a song

#8864 8 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Thanks guys...Okay, I did some tinkering.
This is in a completely dark room the way I play so your results my vary a little.
My defaults from JJP on the monitor were 100 Brightness and 50 Contrast.
(To access the monitor controls (see pics at bottom of post), insert your backbox key that you originally had attached to the shooter rod and most likely have it hanging inside the coin door. Remove backglass and pull on the top left and right of the monitor where it says "LCD PULL HERE". It requires a bit of force to break the magnet connection. The controls are on the right side. Menu Brings up the main menu. You can either scroll with the up down arrows to a new category or Press menu again to highlight the value you wish to change and use the left and right arrows to change the values. Press menu again and then use up down arrows to go to a new setting in the submenu. To back out to the front menu Press the Auto button. You can then select a new category and Menu to enter that submenu. It's a little tricky as the menu has a timeout, but you'll get the hang of it)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here are the setting adjustments:
[quoted image]
1. I turned the Brightness down to zero at first then came up to 25 as it dimmed too much. 25 is just at the threshold where it started getting washed (again your results may vary depending on your ambient lighting) - for those with bright lighting conditions something in the 25-40 range for brightness may be more suitable. You'll have to experiement with this range to see what looks best to you
*** Daylight or bright environments: You can bump the brightness to 100 if you like for just that 'pop' that will be missing a little if you follow my settings and turn it down to 25...the key 2 settings that seem to be the most impactful are setting Contrast to 100 and sRGB to On for Color Temp
2. I adjusted the Contrast to 100
3. I left DCR off - On disables brightness and contrast and the monitor dynamically adjusts the contrast but I don't think it looked better
Next adjustment was the biggest one
4. I Changed the Color Temp to sRGB (default was on 6500k)
I took photos of each Color Temp setting and all but the sRGB have the white levels blown out
You can see the guitar strings of the first pic I have circled that clearly show the Strings and the detail in the guitars without becoming white washed out and have the best contrast ratios out of all the Color Temp options IMHO
You can also see more detail in the flames etc..it may not appear to be correct as your working on it because the backbox LED's are in your face and the monitor is not in its enclosure while your adjusting the settings.
[quoted image]
Give it a try.
Again I play in a dark room, this may not be the best setup for those with bright lit game areas
I think the following pics look much better than the default settings. (The blacks are much more pronounced)
There is still some compression showing and I would really like inkier blacks but that is probably due to monitor limitations and the fact it is 1080p and not 2k/4k..
It's pinball afterall and not a home theater
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for posting this. I copied your settings and it looks much better. Even the photos come out better

#8866 8 months ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

Rather nice to see all that beautifull Dayne Henry Jr. art fully in the backglass. A little solder, a piece of 4000K ledstrip and an old piece of cable of a deceased pc powersupply and voila. Plug it into the spare 12V Molex connector behind the monitor and voila. Thats some nice backlit backglas around the monitor. just gotto finetune (darken it abit) around the camera area.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Would you be able to share some pics of the installation? This looks great

Quoted from Drac:

Can someone please tell me who it was that's selling a lighting kit to illuminate the backglass borders that are around the display?

This isn’t the for sale post but a nice DIY

#8917 8 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Sometimes the bounces are very gentle there and the skirt and the post form of v cradle that just keeps the ball on the edge without depressing the skirt so no matter of adjusting the sensitivity will actually change that I've got the leaf contacts as close as you can have them.
If you make the post bigger it provides a bigger obstacle for the ball to get around further sticking the ball..however if you make a bulge on the skirt itself the ball then depresses the skirt... Hence the foam...
Trust me I don't want to make the pin ghetto either but 300 plus plays without sticking proves this works..
What they really need to do is redesign the skirt for that area The one north of it you can see is actually cut off It's not a complete circle maybe JJP can come up with one that has a little bit of a bulge or lip on that to extend and offer it as a replacement for those willing to replace the factory one

Wouldn’t it need more of a spoon adjustment to make it more sensitive? I am gonna regret saying this, but I have yet to get a ball stuck there

#8947 8 months ago

Add me to the list of broken spotlights. My right one broke and won’t move up and down. Doesn’t seem to be full motion left to right either. I think it happened during mR Brownstone. I had plenty of slack in the wires.

For those that received a replacement, are they better built and have any broken?

#8971 8 months ago
Quoted from adrock:

Not sure, it has a white servo housing as opposed to the original one that was black. So far so good but I just installed it a few days ago.

How was the install? Any tips? Was it plug and play or did you need to assemble anything?

#8972 8 months ago

So for the busted right spotlight, the linkage isn’t broken. It just doesn’t move up or down in test mode. Is this similar to what everyone else is experiencing? I thought I saw pics or posts about the arm/linkage being broken

#8975 8 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

This was my left spotlight vertical servo on day two. Waiting for a replacement currently.
[quoted image]

Thanks for sharing. Mine appears to look ok. But no noise or movement coming from servo when testing vertical positions.

#8977 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If the arm is intact and it's just the servo that went, you might try replacing it yourself. I did with success.
WARNING: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT YOU BREAK!
The parts are commonly available at hobby shops, I've found two so far that work.
Links in here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/176#post-6250280
IMPORTANT: Make sure the servo is centered AND the spotlight position is centered when you screw on the control arm. If it's not centered, the first time the servo moves it will over-extend and almost certainly break the arm.
The servos are centered on bootup, or you can use the servo device test. When the right servo is active in the test, the left is centered and vice versa.

Thanks for the tips

#8980 8 months ago

In looking at the right vertical servo, I am missing the two, top and bottom mounting screws. See pic. Those screws are present in the left vertical servo. I wonder if missing mounting screws are a common factor in the servo failing? Just a thought. Anyone else have these screws?
5BF82D80-3C60-4AE4-9AF8-B0EB77F4574C (resized).jpeg

#8985 8 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I don't think your missing them, the right servo is mounted from underneath versus the left one, where the servo is on top..
I'm not at my machine, on the road right now, just going from memory

It looks like the screws should be there. The pic is the right light and the servo circled controls vertical movement. All other servos have the screws. I would think the linkages have a better chance of breaking if the screws are missing as vibrations could misalign the servo and add strain to the linkage.

Each spotlight has two servos. One for vertical and the other for horizontal. You are correct in that the vertical and horizontal ones are reversed between the left and right lights.

#9113 8 months ago
Quoted from Dashmonster:

Cut the plug for the old LED and spliced in two 6 foot fixtures from amazon[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you install 12v light strips? I ask because I think they also come in 6v.

Any reflection on the glass caused by this?

#9155 8 months ago

In regards to the vertical failures on the spotlights, I received this message today from JJP.

“Not many issues with the horizontal movement. The missing servo (mounting) screws and the limits they are being pushed to when initializing them seem to be the issues with the vertical movement.
The engineers are addressing the issues.”

Sounds like a code update is needed to limit the movement. This issue is more than just a bad batch of servos. Way too many failures

#9167 8 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Missing screws? Not sure what that means.
But if software engineering is needed to control and limit the movement of the servos to be within specific ranges, until the software comes out to limit, would it be recommended to unplug the spotlights as would they eventually always break until the software update?

Missing screws is in reference to the 2 screws that mount the servo the the assembly. Mine were actually missing on my right side and I guess this has been reported a few time. Without the screws the servo may not align correctly and add additional stress to the linkage

#9168 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

How do you translate that into a code problem?

They will need to send shorter pulses to the servo to limit the movement. Right now it seems they are moving too much and if not properly calibrated at the time of install, could result in stress on the linkage. That is why the horizontal ones are not failing. They don’t have any linkage attached so there is more room for error. Either it needs to be fixed through programming or a stronger linkage or higher quality servo will need to be installed. This is my interpretation of my conversation.

#9170 8 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

They will need to send shorter pulses to the servo to limit the movement. Right now it seems they are moving too much and if not properly calibrated at the time of install, could result in stress on the linkage or stress on the servo. That is why the horizontal ones are not failing. They don’t have any linkage attached so there is more room for error. Either it needs to be fixed through programming or a stronger linkage or higher quality servo will need to be installed. This is my interpretation of my conversation.

-1
#9171 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

"Properly calibrated" simply means "centered correctly at assembly time." Not software.
Again, if the "pulses were the wrong length" don't you think we'd see ALL spotlights die, consistently?
And we'd also see them overextending, which we don't.
Use logic.

They are all dying. All vertical. I wonder what percentage of people have had this issue.

#9174 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

This is bullshit. Unplug your game. And your internet connection.

I understand you will defend this game to your death. It’s ok to admit there is a problem. It’s not just a few bad servos. It’s too widespread.

#9183 8 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

[quoted image]
I propose that you guys settle temporarily by letting my motor test decide how widespread it is.
LE # 264, so early run. 519 total games played, sio not thrashed, but not ignored either.
Just ran a test on spotties so who wants to back the result?

I’m not sure what there is to settle. Just hopeful that JJP can come up with a solution to this issue, whether it be from a programming standpoint or quality of parts. I think everyone is on the same team and I will say the customer service from JJP is top notch.

#9186 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Of course there is a problem. Servos die. We don't have ANY indication that this is a SOFTWARE problem. I think it's irresponsible for you to suggest otherwise and scare people into unplugging things and bugging the software team for an update they aren't likely to make.
If the software was at fault we'd have 100% failure across the board which we do NOT have.
Proof? My right servo is original and still fine. The left vertical one died once, I replaced it, fine ever since.
3200 plays.

Ok bud. Enjoy your game.

#9191 8 months ago
Quoted from Yoderboy:

I had both spotlights break their linkage, talked to 2 different guys at JJP. Neither one of them blamed the linkage they blamed the servos, said they got a bad batch of them in. I have received both replacements and they are definitely different than what I had in the game, they move much better and sound better. They have also been running great since I installed them, take that for what it’s worth.

That’s great news. I’ve been trying to see if I can find replacement linkages online but no luck so far. Maybe I’m searching under the wrong terminology or maybe they are made specifically for this application. Any idea what brand servos they sent you and what brand your stock ones were?

#9194 8 months ago

It’s just that from what I’ve read here and JJP confirming that the issue has been with the vertical servos and not the horizontal. This leads me to think it is a mechanical problem, likely with the linkage possibly restricting movement and causing either the linkage to break or the servo to burn. I never said it was a code issue, but maybe a change in programming could fix it. I’m not a programmer. I also didn’t mean to turn you into madzaphX. I like happyzaphX much better

#9196 8 months ago
Quoted from Yoderboy:

The stock servos were a DGservo S05NF STD, and the new ones are a hobby king HK 15148B. I cannot stress enough how much better the new servos move on both of the axis.

My stock ones are HobbyKing Corona CS238MG.

#9241 8 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

What would you do??
I cashed in cause my heart was pounding.
[quoted image]

Wow. I have a hard time scoring over 5,000,000 lol

#9244 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Band Frenzy, yo!
Get yourself a Fender patch. In song, spam the active band member until Band Frenzy starts, then feed as many balls into the spinner/pops as you can.
When you hear gunshots popping off like popcorn you know you're in the butter zone.

I’ll do that. I need to spend some time strategizing which patches to go for and have to make it a point to try to collect them. Getting better though

#9251 8 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I replaced my spotlights today, when I looked at the broken ones, it looks like there is a horizontal misalignment that pulls them laterally apart making them break. See photo...[quoted image]

Did both servos have mounting screws?

#9254 8 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I'm not sure what you are asking, sorry... But each spotlight was attached to the pin with two screws.

Yes I meant the screws that mount the servo to the assembly. It definitely looks a bit misaligned in your pic

#9323 8 months ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

GNR LE.....left flipper switch. Is this wire supposed to be connected to the switch?
[quoted image]

Mine is the same way. I think others have said it is supposed to be that way

#9429 8 months ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

Never mind doesn’t matter .All that work I got the hood moved left and still the same SDTM every single time completly ruins every game .It’s unplugged looks like another Stern night .
[quoted image]

It looks like it should be aimed more left than what it is. You could try opening the holes of the hood larger so you can turn it more.

#9441 8 months ago

Here is the file for the linkage to the spotlight. Someone on the 3D Print thread was kind enough to share.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563/files

#9446 8 months ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

So I’d imagine take it by the right side where the back meets the curve “hood” and bend toward the left flipper is that correct ?

Before taking pliers to it, I would try applying a few strips of duct tape to the right side not the hood. Add a few layers. Maybe the ball will deflect off it and avoid SDTM.

#9450 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Awesome, that's 1/2 of the linkage, is there a file for the other half?

No this is all he had

#9451 8 months ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Do NOT put any tape in a scoop. Loosen the hood, adjust as far to the left flipper as possible, retighten.

He tried. Seems like either holes are either incorrect on the hood or on the playfield. I think JJP is sending him a replacement hood. My thought was the tape may actually work and won’t cause any harm.

#9465 8 months ago

Damn not a good week for my spotlights. A week or so ago my right vertical servo decided to stop working. Linkage perfectly fine. I bought a couple white hobby king servos but those are on back order so I found some OEM Coronas on amazon. I also bought a tester to calibrate them.

Two days ago the left horizontal spotlight goes rogue and spins a full 180. Burns out. Left vertical linkage broke but servo still good . I used jb weld and fixed the linkage. I may brush a light coating on the other linkage because it definitely strengthens it.

My Corona servo comes in so I use it to fix the left horizontal servo. That side is now 100%.

Power the game up and now my right side horizontal servo is not moving and it doesn’t respond to my tester. It’s burned. Worked fine last I played

So 3 of 4 stock servos failed within two weeks. Could I be that unlucky that I received 3 bad randomly chosen servos from a reputable brand? I’ll reseat the connections that go to the board. Maybe I am getting a bad connection and they are underpowered.

#9488 8 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I can back hand the left ramp, but not all the way to the upper playfield. Should I be able to?

I can back hand it to the upper playfield but only for the first few games. Then I think the fade starts to kick in

#9517 8 months ago
Quoted from megalo17:

Sorry if this has been addressed already, but I can't believe my LE is the first to have this problem (another one in my batch has the same problem). The left ramp diverter adjustment was all the way down upon arrival from factory. 14 games in and I notice this... Clearcoat and paint dust galore. I'm sure this is my fault for not noticing prior to putting any games on it! Anyone with a new LE may want to check the position of theirs. LE #953. Looks like a design flaw of the plunger length or the adjustment length. A slow motion video with the diverter in the fully raised position shows the bottom nut barely clearing the bashed in playfield.
[quoted image]

I believe I read that you can make an adjustment to raise the nut so it doesn’t come down and hit the playfield

#9555 8 months ago

Can someone please take a pic of this area for me? Seems like a post is supposed to go here? I noticed this today. It’s along the left orbit across from the guide separating the center loop. Thanks

6EAA7223-1A71-4391-996B-2FBE409549B7 (resized).jpeg
#9556 8 months ago

Looks like this is normal. Thanks Jguzik420.

#9558 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check the gallery pictures at the top of this thread. It's in there.
LTG : )

Thanks I was going through them but didn’t spot the pic after a few pages. Are you saying a post should be there?

#9589 8 months ago

Here’s another file for the spotlight linkages. This is for the the full linkage.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563

#9592 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

This is awesome!! Thanks for doing this and making our games future proof.
One possible revision though - I -think- the original has "teeth" in the socket that mate up to the servo.
Without those teeth I think it may end up just sliding, relying only on the screw friction to keep it in place.
That said I might be wrong, the next time I need to fix a spot I'll check.

I was thinking the same thing that there should be teeth. I haven’t made any of these as I don’t have a printer so not sure if they work. I asked some guys on another thread to see if they had the CAD files and they were nice enough to share.

Any idea what they use on the gear of the servo? Is that just some heat shrink?

#9602 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Huh? Heat shrink?
It's a toothy gear with a screw hole in it.[quoted image]

My stock Coronas had white rubber around the gear of the servo. Kinda resembled heat shrink based on the texture. I pulled it off and put it on the new servo. Yours came stock with the white hobby kings so maybe mine was left over from an earlier run. Weird

#9603 8 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

The WMPC has a 3D printer

Sweet! I’m hoping to stop by one of these fridays!

#9638 8 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

Are you guys seriously saying this game needs auxiliary lighting?
Gotta be pulling my leg.

I was thinking the same thing. A better way to spend the $ would be on a pinwoofer

#9665 8 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Got my nasty bit of playfield pooling.
138 Games in, on a CE PF.
“How disappointing” call out on CONGO is the only thing that comes to mind. should I just flatten it out and stick a piece of Mylar before replacing the post? Hope the other side stays intact.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Damn. Was the post loose?

#9755 8 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

I’m in Israel so getting the game back, and the additional shipping and tax it cost me in the first place, wouldn’t make it worth anyone’s while. it’s VERY disappointing to say the least. But it is what it is. My build date is a mix of December (decals,printed date) and January (hand written date on larger back box decal). It’s a CE, so they’re not prone to anything if anyone thought that. And I’ve since noticed another two or three posts that are still 100% in tact, but a formation building around them can be seen if you’re now inspecting it closely. I hardly have 138 games and this is already happening, I plan on keeping this one for at least twenty years going forward but seeing someone’s post here with the mic pooling around the magnet? What washer will I need then? I’m only a month in!
Why don’t we all just get a white wood of gnr and call it even? I’d be happy with a bare pf rather than a worn,chipped,pooled out one any day. Just as much as I’m into playing pinball, I really am drawn to the hobby for the art, the aesthetics, the pop culture , THE DETAILS. So this really bums me.
This is the first thing I’ve really mentioned, I was ok with all the rest of the problems. Mylar on the drumsticks, rubbers, diverter/left ramp, my lockbar not fitting properly for the latch to lock, but this one is really upsetting.

Stay safe!!

#9759 8 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Send Cliffy an email with what you are interested in.
He will put you on the list.

FYI he was about 4 weeks out when I ordered mine a couple weeks ago. I would order soon

#9785 8 months ago
Quoted from adamross:To put on button on my diverter issue and to help save anyone else's PF from getting f'd...there are 2 screws that adjust the height of the diverter. Mine came from the factory too low, which meant the hex kept pummeling into the playfield unbeknownst to me which is why it kept trapping the ball. See below the damage it did to my playfield. Best to make sure it's not doing the same on yours.
[quoted image]

#9786 8 months ago
Quoted from Gambeno:

Anyone know where to learn how to do this?? I was just made aware of this, and mine is bashing into the playfield as well.

I posted a link to Adam Ross’s post on his adjustment

#9817 8 months ago

So with the mad rush to put the plastic washers under all the posts, does anyone have experience using the silicone washers that Titan sells? I wonder if those would be better.

Last thing I want to do is just add a larger washer so the damage occurs even farther from the posts

#9877 8 months ago

I read on Titans website that their silicone washers are for plastic posts only. Probably because they “grab” plastic better than metal. I wish I read that before buying a bunch. Oh well. Plastic it is

#9930 7 months ago

I just spent a LONG evening throwing plastic washers under every post I could easily get to. About 18 washers. Even under posts where it looked ok I had pooling. Every post had pooling. Thankfully no tears. Left orbit ball guide was gonna be a disaster. The washer was torqued to the point it was bent. Most washers had the sharp edge facing down.

Also, what kind of psychopath puts stainless (non magnetic) washers under posts and pretty much everywhere else?

Also installed the new spotlights that came in. Easy job.

1A510D1A-5790-4271-B12E-A30A556A0A00 (resized).jpeg92B54EF3-8A90-4F81-954A-9B2882BC9A0C (resized).jpegE4F12F41-4CC8-4AA1-A6C2-1FBF0A4A25A5 (resized).jpeg
#9937 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I know that washer and exact spot all too well.. it's what drew me to the whole problem in the first place. I could tell it was way over torqued just by looking at it . I don't know whether to thank the person who cranked destroyed that washer at the factory or thank them because they got me to look at the rest of the playfield before the shit show started
Instead of properly aligning that guide rail and then carefully adjusting torque they just got on the bottom of that nut and cranked until the guide rail positioned itself to where they needed it to be
amateur hour whoever did that... And it didn't take much of an effort to do it the correct way just either lazy or incompetent is my guess
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I was also thinking they tightened it to get the rail right but there seemed to be plenty of play in the guide when I loosened the first two nuts. Weird. That was one of my worst areas

#9958 7 months ago
Quoted from blkspiderman:

Has anyone changed the rubbers to there out lane posts, maybe bigger ones or know a solution to the balls draining on the outer lanes 80% of the time, THANKS!!

If you want to reduce outlane drains you could always swap in a star post. I’d put a plastic washer under it though to be safe from PF damage.

You could also change the little rubbers to 7/16 size if you keep the original spike posts

#9969 7 months ago
Quoted from simpswho:

Hello Gunners, can some tell me how many of these plastic washer's I will need to help fix the post pool problems. are they all the same size? Is one better than another ? Thanks ,I want to try and Bullitt proof my game out of box!

I’d get about 20 washers. 3/4” works. Some you may need to trim using some cutters as some posts are close together. Take pics as you pull ramps and plastics off. Careful not to let any existing washers under posts slide away from you. Put a microfiber towel on playfield to catch any that get away from you

#9971 7 months ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

It’s crazy people gotta do all of this work to save a $10k+ game. I’ve never thought about doing this to a 90s pin. Maybe they need to go back to screen printing

If the pooling starts to happen again with the clear washers we are all screwed. It’s too bad because this is the coolest game I’ve ever played

#10063 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Well crap...3rd Spotlight busted...this is with the newer white servos after my other 2 RMA's...
Anyone have a hyperlink to the linkage arm? I'd really like to get some spares of these as they seem to break pretty easily...I would rather change them than have to keep buggin gmy distro for RMA's of the entire assembly...
[quoted image]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563

Here you go. I painted a light coat of JB weld on my new ones and also successfully “glued” my broken one together with the JB. The JB really strengthens the part. I also applied a little extra white lithium grease

#10066 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I take it I need a 3D printer for that? Is there a way to order that from an online site with the 3D files?

Yes sorry this is what I thought you were looking for. It’s nowhere to be found online. You need a 3D printer or a friend that has one. Try some JB weld while you wait for a replacement

#10078 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I just did a search for Anycubic 3D printers...I didn't realize how the prices had come down...looks like I'm gonna get a new toy lol
Could you recommend the S, Pro or X version? - sorry to derail the GnR thread

Sorry I know nothing about 3D printers. Looks like you found a website to print them?

#10121 7 months ago

For those that routinely score over 10 million, what 4 patches are you likely to go for first? I’m trying to come up with a strategy to score better

#10127 7 months ago
Quoted from Chetrico:

My scores have been hovering between 30 and 60 mill. That said, I can't seem to get to the next level. I always grab the fender patch first and then move around to the band members. Bra and panty combo is nice to have for double bonus... and skill shot increase. To me, the most important thing is to try and have all six balls locked to start the song. Even when I have Slash solo ready, I avoid the scoop and try and lock the six balls for song. I've yet to beat 600,000 on Slash solo. Seems high risk low reward to me.

Fender is the patch I go for first. I’ll try your strategy with the band member patches and locking balls. Is there a way to inactivate the song when it’s lit?

#10173 7 months ago

For those that have installed mirror blades what is the verdict? I mean, mirrors enhance any game and make it look stunning, but I do like the “glow” I get on the black just above the hot rails. Do you get a similar effect with the mirror blades?

-5
#10295 7 months ago
Quoted from metallik:If you're getting or have a game with no damage yet, one thing to try would be to take an xacto knife with a new blade and carefully score the playfield right around the base of the post. Cut through the clear and art so any twisting or other movement of the post isn't transferred to the surrounding art.
If you make the cut right against the post you'll never see it. Don't add any washers, and if a small washer is already there just score around it. Goal is to separate the clear under the post from the clear surrounding it.

Sorry dude. That’s the dumbest post on this thread

#10343 7 months ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I have to give a LOUD RINGING endorsement to PinMonk and the Tibetan Breeze Kit for GnR.
First off the packaging and instructions.
Love the quality and care - true pro stuff right here. Funny, clever, and well thought out instructions with illustrations
Install time - everything fit perfectly and install was a breeze (no pun)- literally 20 minutes
Sound, virtually undetectable with glass on and lock bar secure.
Now for the best part:
They are a game changer....and by this I mean...you can't play GnR without them after you try them once.
They allow you to keep your flipper performance at a constant throughout play. Not only strength, but the ability to string together combos, backhands, and shots, impossible through normal progression in the game without the fan kit due to flipper fade.
They are worth every penny and they should be the first mod you install on your machine...followed a close second by the Pinwoofer JJP Super kit
A++++++++++

I’ll second this. I installed today simultaneously with installing the cliffy at the scoop (using your instructions by the way...so thank you). The fans are awesome.

Also, I was getting some serious ball bounce as it rolled down the inlane onto the flippers. I had been using super bands. I changed to the slim titans and the bounce is pretty much gone

#10373 7 months ago

Anyone know where the “special” is?

#10375 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

AFAIK to collect special you must collect the patch for it. I don't think there is a specific shot for it.

Gotcha. I thought that patch was to light special, but couldn’t figure out what shot was lit

#10377 7 months ago

So the GNR patch lights special. This patch isn’t available to start the game. You must unlock it. Not sure how, but I assume it appears after you collect enough letters to spell Guns N’ Roses but I could be wrong.

In settings, I made it so you get an extra ball when you collect the special.

I collected the patch but no indication that special was lit and I did not get an automatic extra ball, nor was the extra ball lit. Anyone have any ideas? Code 1.21

#10379 7 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Hoping for a code update soon to take care of desert demolition or maybe if it can be disabled so it doesn’t come up.

If you hold the action button when scoop is lit to start the mode it will disable it

#10383 7 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Huh! Just Desert Demolition or any mode?

Any mode

#10384 7 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Thx. How do you know desert demo is the mode that’s lit? I never paid much attention, is it on the screen or playfield somewhere?

The album I think is flashing that corresponds to desert demo. Not sure which album it is

#10520 7 months ago

It’s too bad you lose the full jackpot when you finish a song but fail to collect the applause jackpot. Seems like you should get the jackpot you had built up once the song finishes, and then you should get an additional jackpot for hitting the scoop at the end

#10557 7 months ago
Quoted from jalpert:

This would eliminate the cash out risk/reward that makes this game so great.
Automatically awarding the points as the song goes would ruin the game.
If you can’t hit that last shot, then you can always cash out before then.

Say you keep multi ball going the entire song. You never get a cash out opportunity. The songs all vary in length but on full completion you should get the jackpot. The applause jackpot feels like it should be a separate award. I mean it’s a bit frustrating that you can play excellent and then miss out on a huge score because you fail to hit one shot in the last 10 seconds. Just my opinion. It still keeps the risk reward feature in place, just provides a little more satisfaction

#10560 7 months ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Edit: misread.
Yah, if you double drain the first time you get down to single ball play it’s tough.
But I don’t think it’s worth modifying the scoring balance for that particular scenario.
I do appreciate your opinion, just respectfully disagree.

Keefer did mention he will eventually do something to balance the scoring so it will be interesting to see what he does

#10719 7 months ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

Has anyone had any issues with the shooter lane kick out? Just got my machine set-up, and the ball hangs about 30% of the time
[quoted image]

Obvious question...is it level?

#10793 7 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

So on my dad's machine when the ball returns from the left orbit it hits the top of the left sling.
On my machine, the ball goes gracefully past the sling.
What should I do on his machine to correct this? I feel like possibly slightly bending the rail on the left orbit might do the trick but not sure if that's the best approach.

Loosen the first bolt under the ball guide and push it hard towards the middle of playfield. Might need to wedge a screwdriver for leverage. Then retighten. See if that works. If not also try loosening the second bolt and repeat process or use some needle nose pliers and bend the end of the ball guide towards middle of playfield

#10795 7 months ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

Yeah I agree, I just got my build date of 5/21 and my number is 1121. I would bet they just pick a plaque out of the box.

That seems so odd to me. They earmark 5,000 of these games but likely won’t sell that many. So someone could draw game 5,000 but there might only be 3,000 made. Someone will call that game rare and sell if for $40k lol

#11001 7 months ago

I thought that I read that someone removed the plastic washer from a trouble area and the pooling was gone.

Has anyone else checked their playfield condition by removing a clear washer?

#11022 7 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Brilliant! Now if only someone would do a write up.. did you document the process?

I’d like to hear his process as well. My guess is an external power source and a t-tap into the data line. Using addressable Leds. Likely need to duplicate the same number of Leds used on both the left and right hotrails.

I want to try this so bad but my thought is to wait till my warranty period is up

#11057 7 months ago

.

#11058 7 months ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

I'll count the LEDs when I get home, one roll 16ft was enough to do all four strips. You will also need some connectors that allow you to go from wire to the LED strip I'll post links when I get home

Did you only tap into the green wire which is data?

#11077 7 months ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

Green (data) and white(ground) on each side. Each rail has unique data

By also tapping the ground wire, it sounds like you only run the positive to the external power? Does that make it so it turns on and off automatically along with the game?

#11102 7 months ago

Is it just me or are you guys adjusting your scoop every so often to keep the ball ejecting to the sweet spot on the left flipper?

#11104 7 months ago
Quoted from Leo13:

Never adjusted mine ! Never had a SDTM from the scoop

I tried some blue loctite on the screws but it seems I have to readjust every 50 games or so. Never a SDTM but it definitely ejects the ball towards the end of the left flipper over time. After adjustment it goes to the middle of flipper. Not a big deal but maybe I need to screw it in tighter

#11107 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Did you try just bumping that VUK coil up one number higher in the settings? Likely as the game heats up it gets a bit weak. Just a thought.

Thanks I’ll give that a try

#11109 7 months ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I have all my leg levelers screwed all the way in per the jjp recommendation. What pitch are you guys all at, or did you stick with factory recommendations of levelers all the way in?

6.8 degrees between the flippers is working best for me. I’ve tried both 6.5 and 7.0

#11188 7 months ago

I’m not a very good nudger, so I added a couple of star posts to limit the cheap drains. Of course they sit on 3/4” plastic washers.

Now my son and I have a chance at starting 2-3 songs per game lol.

3C78A3D4-953A-4D46-82C4-FEE793A971AF (resized).jpeg836A0E94-6310-435E-9F0D-4020D9B609FD (resized).jpeg
#11190 7 months ago
Quoted from blkspiderman:

Is everyone using preventative measures and putting the PETG on every post or just the ones with chipping? I read someone said you may cause more damage by trying to use preventative measures and it got me thinking......

I’ve got a plastic washer on every post I could get to. So far so good. Truth is nobody knows what is good to do and not good to do. But I will say doing nothing is the worst thing to do.

#11192 7 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Can the ball even got down the outlanes??

It sure can and still does lol

#11194 7 months ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Then you should use a wider star post so it doesn’t

Rubber band is next haha. Seriously though. These outlanes are killers

#11197 7 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Your next mod..
[quoted image]

And then I drill a mini post between the flippers

#11258 7 months ago

For the players that regularly average games over 10 million….

When in 2ball booster multi balls, are you playing slowly or just go ham? Meaning do you try to catch and cradle the balls and aim for every jackpot?

Obviously the more balls in play the faster you gotta flip.

I feel like I need to focus and play in control more, especially with this game more so than others, as I am aiming and shooting on the fly 90% of the time. Looks like jackpots are very important when it comes to song levels

#11389 7 months ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Does no one make an apron monitor for GnR? I lose more balls during MB because I’m glancing up at the flipping PF monitor! (And on the main monitor on “It’s So Easy”, but for different reasons).
Apron monitor(s) would be so much easier to glance at! Come on modders! Take my money!

There was a guy a while back that posted a pic of a separate tv he was using as a topper that had the playfield monitor displaying on it. I’ll post a pic I took of his explanation. Still a bit confused as I haven’t looked at mine yet but can’t be difficult.

I’m sure you could find a small 4” lcd monitor that you could stick on the apron. Might need someone to 3D print a casing for it.

6DA1CD31-ED87-4BD5-B537-5DCBAEE90200 (resized).jpeg
#11406 7 months ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

I turned on the pin this morning (error message and red on the switch), made a few games, now is no longer displayed errors in the switch overview, strange. I have done nothing.
I will keep an eye on this, thanks for the tips.

Sometimes if a switch doesn’t register after a certain number of games it will show up in the error report upon boot up. It’s the games way of showing you a potential issue. Once the switch gets activated the error goes away

#11407 7 months ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

I have when I bought black mirror plates and coloured plastic protectors installed at the same time. Looks very cool.
[quoted image]

Looks great. What kind of scoop protector is that? Doesn’t appear to be a cliffy

#11427 7 months ago

First thing that anyone should do when they get the game is to go through and put 3/4” plastic washers under every post they can find. You should order 30 of them. If you do this preventive measure I think it’s safe to say at this point, based on people playing over 1,000 games since adding the washers, that your playfield will be perfectly fine. Fingers crossed of course

#11600 6 months ago

Anyone know what the Fog switch does on the upper playfield?

I’m still looking for the Special

For those that bought mirror blades that fit perfect, where did you buy them?

I added a Polk subwoofer yesterday and wow what a difference!

#11634 6 months ago
Quoted from konghusker:

You guys just using alligator clips for a sub, or does jjp have an actual rca out jack somewhere in the cab for sub wires?

My LE cab speaker had secondary male connections. So I took 14 gauge speaker wire and crimped on female connectors. Hooked onto the cab speaker and to the speaker level inputs on the sub. Best $120 I’ve ever spent. Now the songs are fuller and you can set your bass how you like it

#11649 6 months ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

The album modes are awesome, well the 3 that are coded. The only problem with them is the points they award. The modes are tough to complete and the reward just isn’t worth it. Completing an album mode should award 10M points minimum, right now it’s like 500k... that is literally all that needs to be changed...

That’s why they suck….crappy scoring

#11701 6 months ago
Quoted from Arcade:

After installing my new top magnet coil from JJP I played one game and the magnet grabbed the ball perfectly. Once.
It has never grabbed it again.
I put the game in coil test mode and when I hit the start button the magnet will repel the ball but it does not grab it.
Is the normal?
When during a game should this magnet be active?
My old broken coil would not do anything in the coil test mode so at least this one is doing something.
Just wish it would grab the ball during a game like I know it should.

I believe the magnet should be active whenever you need to collect Axel