Quoted from VividPsychosis:

My LE arrived in Richmond today delivery coming tomorrow by 5pm. Woohoo!

Quoted from punkin:

Expecting my LE this week or next week.

Quoted from PtownPin:

Its kinda crazy to me that JJP doesn't provide estimated delivery dates. My guess is they have a pretty good idea when delivery will take place. From what I heard they will finish building out the CE's through February and then start up on the LE's.

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

So have any November LE orders been fulfilled? Seems like they are still shipping October orders for LE.

Quoted from Paddy-o:

I just got off the phone with my distributor, and my early October order has now been pushed to late June, early July. I'm a pretty patient person, but I have to admit that it is wearing thin. I know that there are many other machines that have had long waits, but I didn't order those. Guess I'm just used to the Stern business model. Oh, well. Rant over. On a positive note, I did get a chance to play an LE recently, and it was everything y'all have been saying it is! Might account for my newfound impatience!

Quoted from dnapac:

Ok, just looking for an estimate. When did the latest receive their GNR and when did they order it? Lots in the mix and selling to make room...if it’s a year off that’s ok, just trying to estimate. Thanks!

Quoted from Skyemont:

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Quoted from fooflighter:

My Theory of why the clear PETG washers (carbon also) work better than mylar or metal washers: (Not saying that larger metal don't work as well or those who use mylar are doing it wrong...just I think the PETG solution is the best one for now)
(The pic below is after hot iron fix and 800+ plays...all my fixes are holding up as well 18+ fixes)
This is for those who want to fix/protect their games with the current playfields - I'm not posting this to discuss clearcoat and playfield methods, or how washers look ugly, detract from resale etc.... I think the playfield issue is a major problem and needs to be addressed but this is for those who want to keep their games and continue to enjoy them without worry
Hopefully this will encourage you to be proactive and protect your game with the right material
1. The sooner the better to prevent pooling as they best translate the forces away from the playfield
2. Notice the darker black ring around the post...that is the direct point of contact the washer is making in and around the post hole. The post is applying downward pressure but the flex of the PETG washer (while mostly rigid) is enough to just barely flex to a conical shape translating to a downward and outward force of the washer on the post hole rather than just a lateral "digging in" edge force a metal washer. Mylar works to a point but then bunches up, doesn't translate the force away enough, becomes compressed and loses effectiveness (see my crude sketch - sometimes a pic is easier to communicate)
3. By flex, I mean less than paper thin ....that space between the play surface and the outer washer area.
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Quoted from fooflighter:

Pinball life 3/4 in mainly couple 7/8's

Quoted from NightTrain:

That’s my biggest gripe with JJP at this point. They know there is a problem and they giving everyone ZERO direction as to what the best way is to handle this. The very least they could do is tell everyone how to handle this and mitigate further playfield degradation. It’s just complete silence from them. It’s almost surreal how poorly they are handling this issue.

Quoted from Mattyk:

Obvious question...is it level?

Quoted from Drac:

Man that's an awesome looking room you have there too!!

Quoted from Vespula:

Thumbs up. That kid be lucky! When did you order? Disty?

Quoted from PinMonk:Not that I'm one to turn away a sale, but it sounds like maybe some binding or something else, but not temp. 128F is BARELY perceptible fade if you're REALLY tuned into it, which most people are not. I'd check your flipper bushing spacing, coil sleeve and coil stop first.

Quoted from brerspidur:

good call, i just checked after everything had cooled off, and the left ramp is still a no go.

Quoted from jalpert:

Nice job.
How exactly did you tap into the data line? Solder onto board? Wire splice?

Quoted from Vespula:

Brilliant! Now if only someone would do a write up.. did you document the process?

Quoted from Vespula:

Can you order just enough and cut them to size?
Or do you have to do four rolls?

Quoted from jalpert:

I don’t know the LED count, but these are 50% off on Amazon:
amazon.com link »
You need to place multiple orders to get 50% off on more than 1.

Quoted from Mattyk:

Did you only tap into the green wire which is data?

Quoted from Mahoneyj:

Awesome thanks. Where do you get the power for the power supply?

Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Thanks, I don’t have an old atx, I guess I can try another power cable.
When you say service outlet, do you mean the surge protector it’s plugged into? It’s brand new and only one other game plugged into it and it runs fine. Also there’s no issues during attract mode, it just reboots during gameplay for some reason.

Quoted from Mattyk:

By also tapping the ground wire, it sounds like you only run the positive to the external power? Does that make it so it turns on and off automatically along with the game?

Quoted from pinballj:

The connection diagram is actually on the amazon page actually. Just think of the "controller" in the diagram being one of the 3 pin drivers from the machine.
If coming off the same power supply, you don't need to connect the grounds together (since it is obv the same ground in the power supply). If you are using a completely separate power supply though, you will need to connect the grounds together to allow for the data line to have a potential difference from the ground on the LED strip.
I could see the LEDs staying on in the last pattern if the separate power supply is still on and the pinball machine is turned off, as I think the ws2812 uses a logic high for so much time to reset / turn off the LED.
I don't have my game yet, so can't test though
Hope that helps.
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Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Do you know the count of LED's on each of the hot rails?

Quoted from Vespula:

This.

Seriously though I did try to make sense of the pictures of the wiring that were posted. It was much appreciated. However no offense it was helpful in disqualifying my abilities to do this... As they were all laying on top of each other and the colors were altered because I know that's what wires he had , so the more I looked at how they were all connected the more confused I got and quickly bagged the idea wishing for a kit. I wasn't even sure if those holes on the back corner or with the wire mesh that he ran the wires through or even actually there did he have to drill those. Mainly cuz I don't have my game yet either.
However I will say I am very close to being able to do this with some further hand holding, so if there was an actual wiring diagram showing where everything connects, and where the t connectors went, which t connectors to buy, which awg wiring size to buy, power supply and buffer(optional), And exactly which 2812, (2812b??) To get, then I think I might be in the world of the confident and could attempt it. Maybe a fully assembled kit you just connect probably 3 Ts into the existing wiring at the board and power, attach to the pin, and fire it up. But also then a "roll your own" kit for reduced price for just the parts and a diagram. And of course, could even be a third option for a suggested donation which would be just parts list and a GnR wiring diagram.
If you think about it Pinstadium wants to charge 400 bucks for something It isn't 1/4 as cool as this. I don't know if he has any sales, but a $350 plug and play kit isn't out of reach for these "entitled guys" on here. I mean they're (I just haven't ordered yet so I can't say we) paying $375 for an acrylic skull And it doesn't even light up. Lol

Quoted from Ashram56:

Well I would feel ashamed to charge 400 bucks for something that simple... I mean, there's literally zero engineering involved, it's pure connectivity.
I'm not really in the business of doing mods, as I have a full day job which satisfies me fully. I would be willing to provide DIY instructions with one caveat : I don't have the game yet so I don't know where are the game ledstrip connections and what they look like
If the other pinsider who did it could post picture of the original game connectors and their location, I'm sure both of us should be able to come up with something comprehensive for the electronic noob to follow.

Quoted from Ashram56:

OK, so it's super straightforward. Red is 5v, white is ground, green is data line.
I'll come up with some instructions
Note to the picture poster: love your crimping connector, care to share a link to them?
Regards

Quoted from marksf123:

Well I think it is going to be a good rest of the week. I pick up my GnR tomorrow and Friday my corvette gets built (ordered in Nov 19). I was bummed out today because my beloved Naso Tang died. I cant believe how attached I get to fish.......

Quoted from websherpa:

Could you use a 12v tap from somewhere in the game? Or would power draw be too much? (Thank you!)

Quoted from websherpa:

Smart idea (especially with the added Surge protector. Is it an all in one, or separate wifi outlets to one surge protector or? Do you have a link to your choice? I am interested in your setup, thank you!

Quoted from PinMonk:

Resolution's not the same, and the aspect ratio is off by a few percent. IF there's a "stretch" adjustment in the menu, it MAY work, but not a sure thing.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Certain HDMI splitters strip out the HDCP. I have one. Sounds like you need one of those.

Quoted from Mattyk:

I saw that monitor but looks like hiding the wires may be difficult since they come out the top. Damonator’s connects via a ribbon cable to the controller board underneath the playfield. Looks like a clean install.
Are you using an hdmi splitter? Is there any outputs on the board?

Quoted from daveyvandy:

Hell yes! Thanks for noting it. Going to download now.

Quoted from Bmanpin:

I do like those and the way they look but I definitely like my mirror blades better. Adds to the light show and gives an appearance of depth.

Quoted from Vespula:

I don't think this post got the attention it deserves.
Spotlight on Axl is great.. do tell more.
did you just add a small led from under the playfield? What kind and where did you grab power? Assuming this just static and stays on when the game is powered? Or did you go overboard and tap into hot rails
Did you happen to experiment with different colors and brightness?
As a side note, maybe someone will come up with a nut hiding kit. The skulls at the bottom of axl are cool except I don't like the two nuts and bolt sitting among them. If we had little resin cast skulls we could pop on top cover them up that would be great. Also there's other areas on the playfield where something could sit on top of a nut to cover it up, like Just someone sell a bag of assorted skulls that fit on top of those standard nuts. Obviously a full kit of assorted roses, bullets, skulls, etc to cover all the bolts and screws on the playfield would be awesome.

Quoted from punkin:

Spoke to my operator mate yesterday. He said he had bubbling on the front and near the hinges.
New in box. How do they get passed QC?

Quoted from JoeJet:

Same. After I ordered I read his ebay feedback. Ouch. Good luck everyone! LOL

Quoted from Thot:

nice! what kind of leds and where do you connect them??

Quoted from Blu:

Yeah it won’t let me accept the challenge either unfortunately. I wonder if there is a bug in the last update and if it is tied to sending challenges to multiple people.
When they work, you have 6 days to beat the score, and a gold medal appears on the score if/after it is beat.
I actually like the challenges more than the achievements, so I hope it gets sorted soon.
You can see that I was challenged to beat a 5m score, and bested it with a 20m score and got the gold medal. Then the score I challenged back was not beat in time (no medal)
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