(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 188 votes
    17%
  • LE 631 votes
    57%
  • SE 77 votes
    7%
  • None 218 votes
    20%

(1114 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

78 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #34 Feature matrix listing differences for each edition. Posted by Dallas_Pin (3 years ago)

Post #414 GNR Manual - link to JJP site Posted by knobstone (3 years ago)

Post #434 Full Song List Posted by Concretehardt (3 years ago)

Post #755 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Guitar Neck Lock Release tip Posted by kermit24 (3 years ago)

Post #1017 TECH: LIGHTING. Troubleshooting spot light motion issues Posted by wdbthree (3 years ago)

Post #3837 How to use jukebox mode Posted by kermit24 (3 years ago)

Post #4098 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Flipper adjustment tips Posted by Eskaybee (3 years ago)

Post #5052 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter rod power. Change barrel spring. Posted by WannaPinball (3 years ago)

Post #5235 Scorbit jjGnR integration FAQ Posted by jsa (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#645 3 years ago

Where are the additional LEDs in the CE? All for behind backbox and below cabinet or on the playfield as well?

1 week later
#1523 3 years ago

Has anybody already installed mirror blades? Or is it light overkill?

#1526 3 years ago

What happens when you are in a song MB and the song ends? During MB you have no chance to collect the song jackpot.

#1533 3 years ago

I played the GnR yesterday for a longer time. I had the impression that the flipper fingers are quite weak even being one or two points higher than factory. We raised the power until close to max., which increased the power a bit, but far away from the more direct feel of Stern flipper fingers. Getting up the left ramp is just ok, but sometimes a real pain due to missing power, at least after some gameplay.

Is that just my impression or do you recognize the same issue?

#1658 3 years ago

Played it last week and noticed that they put small metal washers under the small metal posts putside the sling area. I think that is different from POTC.

1 week later
#2314 3 years ago

I am wondering that what I see no discussion regarding rules is going on. The general rules are clear, collecting band members for a song, playing the song for an album mod. But what happens during a song? Are there different jackpots for each song? What to shoot for in a song? What influences the score/jackpot value in a song?

6 months later
#10360 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I have to give a LOUD RINGING endorsement to PinMonk and the Tibetan Breeze Kit for GnR.
First off the packaging and instructions.
Love the quality and care - true pro stuff right here. Funny, clever, and well thought out instructions with illustrations
Install time - everything fit perfectly and install was a breeze (no pun)- literally 20 minutes
Sound, virtually undetectable with glass on and lock bar secure.
Now for the best part:
They are a game changer....and by this I mean...you can't play GnR without them after you try them once.
They allow you to keep your flipper performance at a constant throughout play. Not only strength, but the ability to string together combos, backhands, and shots, impossible through normal progression in the game without the fan kit due to flipper fade.
They are worth every penny and they should be the first mod you install on your machine...followed a close second by the Pinwoofer JJP Super kit
A++++++++++

Is there any source to have an idea how they are installed? I found nothing on YouTube nor on the PinkMonk Website. Is there a picture of the installation guide? There are holes in the plastic fan guides, do you screw them in the wood?

#10363 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Here's a reduced-size version of the first half of the instructions. Should give you a good idea. The brackets are different than the product pictures. I've re-designed then and haven't changed the pictures yet.
[quoted image]

Thank you very much, that is very helpful!

#10565 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Is it possible to use silicon washers under these metal posts ?
According to the description on Titan website, they state it's only for plastic posts:
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=154
It would seem logical that slightly flexible silicon post would prevent this type of damage, and as the post is screwed to the playfield anyway that would not generate any type of "rebound". However if the washer cannot be used with metal posts...

I thought of adding metal or plastic washers and put a silicon washer below those. Then you have a hard surface for the post and the pressure is spread to the wider metal/plastic washer. But the pressure there is smoothed down by the silicon washer below and thus the playfield gets less pressure from any ball contact at the post.

#10572 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

There shouldn't be any posts near the pop bumpers that don't have bumpers on them which ones do you mean?
Agreed on the bare metal posts but they're far outnumbered by the ones that have rubber

The two posts without rubber would not be influenced (except if you put rubbers on them for additional protection reasons what I plan to do) and the other 2 posts with rubbers in the bumper section have metal washers anyway and an additional silicon washer should not matter, because the silicon is pressed together anyway. Additionally, I have a playfield protector on it, so that the post level is adjusted by teh silicon to that increased playfield level.

The only thing that bothers me is the question whether you damage the clear/art work, when screwing out a post that has no washer; if it is drilled into the clear, the post may already be connected with the clear so that you damage more than you may win. Any experience in this regard?

#10801 2 years ago

From the pictures in #10777 you can see that the LE got black washers for the sling posts and metal washers for the other posts. In other pictures there were clear washers and only some metal washers. I am a bit confused why JJP changes the washer type. Do you leave the black ones in? Do you swap all (black and metal) for silicone or petg ones?

#10803 2 years ago
Quoted from Mahoneyj:

I left the black factory installed washers alone. I put clear PETG washers under the posts that will get a lot of impact. The small metal washers did not provide enough protection for my machine.

Ok, thank you for your feedback. Do you get airballs from the slings, because the black washers seem to be quite high?

2 weeks later
#11640 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

You guys just using alligator clips for a sub, or does jjp have an actual rca out jack somewhere in the cab for sub wires?

There is an unused connection on the sound board, if you have an LE. I think it is light green and should be the sound output fĆ¼r the CE soundbar, which is not existing for the LE. I plugged the external sub in that output for 2 cinch connectors in the low level input of the sub.

2 weeks later
#12152 2 years ago
Quoted from adrock:

If anyone thinks that installing the longer locking post alone would prevent the pooling and artwork tearing, let me dispel that fantasy. My GNR lane post has significant damage and it came from the factory with the longer locking post.
For those who attempted a repair on the upper playfield post - did you replace it with the longer locking post? Asking because it would involve taking off the upper playfield and removing all those wires which seems like a pretty time intensive task. Would just ironing the pooled area and adding the larger washer likely be enough?
Thanks

The longer post does not necessarily require a nut from below. I replaced the short one with the long one and put a silicon washer under the metal factory washer. After screwing in the post still has some free movement in the wood (was discussed earlier here already). To improve that I wrapped a small (0,5 cm) of clear tape around the part of the post, which is the upper part below the small ā€žplatformā€œ of the post. That lowers the gap between the post and the wood hole. You can adjust that very well by try and error until the movement is close to zero.

1 week later
#12705 2 years ago

If anyone thinks that

Does anybody know how the booster MB affect the song value. On the one hand you can max each booster MB, which means that you shoot the necessary shots. Does this alone increase the song value (except number of locked balls)? Or does the jackpots achieved during the booster MB count only or additionally? Sometimes I wonder that the song value is not so high, even if I have maxed out each booster MB

#12706 2 years ago

...sorry ignore the first partial sentence. Don`t know where this comes from....

1 week later
#12974 2 years ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

I have been studying this page for a little while. Even before I bought the game.
I just didn't get into the patches as they seemed frivolous.
However, I will spend some time on them!
Do you have any suggestions as your go to?

I start with Fender, followed by Duff skull and Vater (both important during songs) then bra and underwear for double bonus for the rest of the game. In later stages of the play I go for Gibson and Marshall to complete the sponsor set of the 4 sponsors, which light extra ball (no need to go for this combo at the beginning of the match, the other above are more important at the beginning).

1 week later
17
#13235 2 years ago

I just added a whole drumset to the pops, integrating the existing two parts. Looks fantastic. Is made with metal and the surfaces are mirrored. Put everything on a transparent plexiglass and fixed it with the screws from the bumper plastics.

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#13241 2 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

Looks great!! Do you have a link where to purchase?

Amazon offers the drum kit, I entered drum mini in the German Amazon. The supplier is Homegarden DE, which is a Chinese company. The delivery was quick, about 10 days.

#13248 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Why does the drummer have his back to the audience?

The drummer is very shy and is not used to a huge audience.

#13274 2 years ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Iā€™m digging this! Can I ask, what did you use to adhere the drum kit to the plastic pieces?

I drilled 2 holes into the plexi glas at the inner side of each leg of the drum. If you watch carefully you can see them in the picture. I used a thin nylon filament (0,25 mm or lower) and then first bend it at the leg and after that put each nylon string through a different hole and bend the 2 strings from the underside of the plastic. So needs some time to drill the holes and to bend the strings, but that is not complicated.

However, you should use a plastic that is flexible (I used 0.5 mm), because otherwise you cannot move the whole set at the top of the bumpers.

#13281 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Great find .
I couldn't decide , but I ended up going with a red set .
The detail on them is full on .
And they're so cheap , ( compared to what's "officially" available ) it doesnt matter if you decide you don't like them .
Did you just super glue them to the plexi .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Edit , I saw you say , you basically use fishing line , I'll try super glue

Looks fantastic as well. Difficult to decide. The details are the same, so either way should be great.

I did not use superglue, because I used a flexible 0.5 mm plastic sheet as base. Flexible, because you otherwise have difficulties putting it in, so you need to bend it a bit (only in the process of putting it on the bumpers). Second reason is that the shaker may rattle it and the connection between glue and plastic may then break the glue. Third, you have to consider that the glue has to carry the metal drums when you raise the playfield. Possibly it depends on the characteristics of the glue. I think it should not dry out completly and provide some flexibility/movement.

#13286 2 years ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I don't suppose you took any pictures of how you utilized the fishing line did you? I ordered the same set as you and perhaps it'll make more sense once it arrives, but if there's any visual reference you could provide I'd love to see it! I think you're right about your super glue assessment, seems like it could be difficult to hold the weight of this item when you're raising the playfield. However, I'm thinking it still may be a good thing to try in combination with your method, but again I'll probably get a better idea of what to do once the item arrives and I can play around with it more. Either way, I do think this looks as good, if not better, than the other mods out there for this space. I'm also going to try and find a way to add the GnR logo to the front of the drum to really dial it in!

I try to make a picture that shows what I did. I must remove the microphone anyway to copy the plastic for somebody; the microphone is fixed on a separate plastic on the AXL plastic, therefore easy to remove.

#13290 2 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

I try to make a picture that shows what I did. I must remove the microphone anyway to copy the plastic for somebody; the microphone is fixed on a separate plastic on the AXL plastic, therefore easy to remove.

So here are the pictures. One with the prototype plastic, one with the top view and one from under the plastic (the last 2 pictures from the small plastic I made for the microphone, which I placed on top of the Axl plastic).

Step 1: cut the plastic that it fits on the pops, step 2: place the drums on the plastic and mark the 2 holes for each leg on the inside of the leg (to make the holes as invisable as possible), step 3: drill the holes, very small ones for the legs and bigger ones for the pop screws), step 4: cut the nylon filament in pieces of 12-15 cm, make a node in the middle of the nylon at the leg, move the two ends of,the nylon through each hole, turn the plastic to the underside and make a node with the two nylon ends there.

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1 week later
#13855 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I cannot assert that it's better yet - time will tell - but so far I've replaced two HobbyKing servos with EMAX and so far they have held up.
I've got two more ready for when the other two HK's fail.
Given how cheap these things are I don't mind them being an infrequent wear item.

Sorry to bother you, but I did not find your post in this regard. Could you please tell me what the exact description of that EMAX servo is? Thank you in advance! The second servo in my left spotlight stopped working tonight.

#13857 2 years ago

Perfect, thanks a lot!

#14081 2 years ago

The new code is no full install I think. Does it change the settings back to factory or the highscores?

#14084 2 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

If you're currently on 1.22 and upgrade to 1.23 it should be minor only and therefore all settings should be retained.

However, I just red in teh German pinball forum that all settings are back to factory. Not quite sure what about the highscores.

2 months later
#17662 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

My game is so tight, the art blades are up against the field. There's no way I could get mirrors in, which I think would look great. Test your fit before you drill any holes

I had the same problem, no gap between playfield and cabinet for mirror blades. However, I love mirror blades, especially for such a light effect game. I therefore created mirror blades that are installed on top of the playfield edges instead of between playfield and cabinet. The only disadvantage is that you need to remove the blades when lifting the playfield.

Some pictures:

The basis is cardboard in order to keep the weight as low as possible. High gloss mirror foil is put on the cardboard. A metal L-profil is used to have a clean top cover and create some strength. You can put the blades directly on the light profil left and right. The mirror effect is very close to the one of metal mirror blades.

I used the same method for my POTC with real mirror blades, but you need someone to cut the metal shorter than normal, which is more complicated then cutting the cardboard.

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1 week later
#17822 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

That's why I said to use a pinball. PinGuy app has been shown to be wrong pretty often.
Stick a pinball on the glass where it meets the lockdown bar, right above the action button and see if it moves. If the machine really is perfectly level, it will not move from the center. This is pretty close to foolproof and much more accurate for left to right level than the pinguy app.

But this assumes that the playfield level is exactly the same as the cabinet level, which is not necessarily the case. Even the playfield itself is not exactly the same level depending where you place pinguy.

1 month later
#19136 2 years ago
Quoted from Dantesmark:

Yeah...risky.
Ive got a friend that has mirrors in his but ive heard others are too tight.
Sux

See my post #17662. I had the same problem, the gap is too tight for mirror blades. I made blades with mirror paper to put on top of theplayfield instead of the sides of the playfield. Looks very nice.

2 weeks later
#19878 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I had removed one before to tighten my screw, the previous came off rather easily, but I did use some goo gone and alcohol to clean and prep for the new one...
If you don't need any screw tightening you could try just doing a overlay but I'm not sure how adhesive the decal will be to the other one just to be safe I'd remove the old one
Also putting the new decal on there will be some bubbles, mainly near the holes around the disc, that will diffuse on their own after about 3 days don't try to make it perfect as you'll crease the decal.. it will settle out and flatten on its own

Is there a trick how to center the new one exactly? Did you use any liquid to move the decal like with artblades?

4 months later
#21977 1 year ago

My strategy is not so different from yours, but more focussed on patches.

Start with 2 shots left ramp as long as the diverter is down to advance patch scoring. Then advance pyro and ball locks without starting lights MB. When all MB are advanced playing all 4 MB (in the best case) parallel. After that ball locks and collection of song related patches: fender, vater, scull, revolver, drum sticks, then t-shirt/poster. Song start with 6 balls locked. First ball save period with focus on ball locks/ power cords to clear ball no. on playfield. Heading for band frency.

#21983 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Nice! Some ideas for me to try. Using these strategies, what is your GC score?

MY GC score is something in the 90 mill., so not really huge.

1 month later
#22450 1 year ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Broadway Gift Red Drum Set Music Instrument Miniature Replica on Stand, Size 5 x 5 x 4 in. https://a.co/d/dZbDLJc
How I installed it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/268#post-6437752

There is a slightly bigger one in gold, see my post #13235 ff. You can get it from Amazon.

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