(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 188 votes
    17%
  • LE 628 votes
    57%
  • SE 77 votes
    7%
  • None 218 votes
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78 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #34 Feature matrix listing differences for each edition. Posted by Dallas_Pin (3 years ago)

Post #414 GNR Manual - link to JJP site Posted by knobstone (3 years ago)

Post #434 Full Song List Posted by Concretehardt (3 years ago)

Post #755 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Guitar Neck Lock Release tip Posted by kermit24 (3 years ago)

Post #1017 TECH: LIGHTING. Troubleshooting spot light motion issues Posted by wdbthree (3 years ago)

Post #3837 How to use jukebox mode Posted by kermit24 (3 years ago)

Post #4098 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Flipper adjustment tips Posted by Eskaybee (3 years ago)

Post #5052 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter rod power. Change barrel spring. Posted by WannaPinball (3 years ago)

Post #5235 Scorbit jjGnR integration FAQ Posted by jsa (3 years ago)


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#1773 3 years ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Im going to look into vireland s cooling kit for this game. Flippers get a hard workout on this game and could be very beneficial.

I don't have a jjGnR yet, but it's the next on the list of machines I'm converting the coil cooling kit to since I've heard from a number of people with jjGnR that the flippers fade for sure. I hope to have one soon and I should be able use it to make a kit that works for all JJP machines. Shouldn't be too long now that I believe the Spooky kit is done (redesign final, in final field testing).

2 months later
#4872 3 years ago

Karl's livestreaming GnR right now with temp gauge on-screen as part of the testing baseline of coil temps for the Pinmonk JJP fan kit before the fans are added. I'm interested to see how high they go in 90-120 minutes. If you are, too...

https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball

Edit: jjGnR is the new raw coil temp record holder at 219F after 2 hours. Destroyed Rick and Morty's 187F record.

#4876 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Wow that's warm and I'd bet alot of fading took place? Have u tested other jjp pins in particular potc?

Just doing JJP now. jjGnR is the first tested. It'll be interesting to see what it holds the temps down to once the fans are turned on.

But yeah, jjGnR and jjPotC are the two I get the most requests for that don't have kits yet. So they're tested first. It should be for sale soon if there are no hiccups in testing. Ideally the kit will work for all JJP.

#4879 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I'm sure they are hot but even having group events at the house running that game full multiball city for 6 strait hours we never noticed any issues at all with the flippers? Granted we didn't put our fingers on them but that seemed like common sense lol.

The hotter right one is a 11629, the biggest coil, so it can power through heat better, but still has fade.

#4881 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Not doubting but curious if there is an actual manufacturer heat fail point defined? I have seen this (I assume heat) issue with API games and Spooky games but not so much on JJP personally. Guess it would help if I was a good enough player and could notice the difference lol.

From what I've been told, the temp testing hasn't been done by any of the manufacturers (dunno about CGC, but all the others). It's kind of a weird oversight because I think there's a lot of science in there that can help mitigate the heat/resistance loop before fans become necessary.

The reason I moved JJP to the next on the list to adapt the Tibetan Breeze kit for primarily is I've had a lot of players asking for a kit for jjPotC and jjGnR. Karl was really not feeling the flippers on longer games due to the fade and since I haven't gotten a GnR to do the testing firsthand, he offered to test to speed the development along. So fade on it is a thing, for sure.

#4883 3 years ago
Quoted from Skipnatty:

I have all JJPs except GnR and flipper fade is very noticeable for me in longer gameplay sessions. Any game where you spend a lot of time in multiball cradled up is a major culprit...Hobbit, Pirates, GnR for sure...could easily see WoZ as well. I'm 100% a buyer for JJP kits.

The big mystery for me is why on Spike2 pins cradling up doesn't raise the temps appreciably. Spooky/JJP and older Sterns the temp keeps going up as long as you cradle up, but on Spike you see a change of only a degree or two in a half hour of cradling solid. Awesome, but I don't get why that's the case (at least not yet).

#4888 3 years ago
Quoted from RA77:

Can you measure current draw on coils as part of your testing Vic ?
Hold has to be minimal right ? Guessing same coils used in Spike 2 if so, I can only guess there must be a sweet spot that Stern has found/produced in the drive circuit ?
Thanks for your efforts Vic.
I'm lucky not to play long enough to experience fade, but I could imagine how much it must suck. Pretty unfair for tourney players too I reckon.

Yeah, there's a lot of stuff I want to measure (playstyle button frequency, hold frequency, current, etc) to try to answer the "why" some arrangements perform better than others, and some flipper coils get really hot fast while others only get moderately hot or take a long time to heat up. But for now, I'm trying to get the kits adapted to all the major platforms first, then try to answer the bigger questions. A JJP kit will be the third platform, then I have older Stern SAM/Whitestar and B/W to do.

Stern uses smaller coils than something like the 11629. 219F would destroy Stern coils, but the 11629 on GnR powers through it, a little weaker, but still working. But something is different about the Spike hold pulses because there's almost no heat added while in hold. That's the biggest mystery so far. I would think dual wound bally/williams coils could compete with that, but no. They continue heating up when held on the machines tested.

#4903 3 years ago
Quoted from ceterumnet:

An interesting note - I had a coil burn out in my wonka a week or so after getting it. Nothing else was damaged...transistors all seemed fine etc...but the plastic wrap on the coil literally came off from the heat.
Not sure if this is related or not...

They do get VERY hot, but that may have just been a defective coil that couldn't stand the heat.

Seeing the 219F temp on the right coil, aside from fade, my main concern is that it could damage the art on the playfield above it, discoloring it over years of heavy use (like on location). That's very hot.

#4910 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Where’s this flap and post you speak of? I only see a solid apron on my le.

It's part of the programming at Westworld that shows you're a 'bot.

"It doesn't look like anything to me."

#4914 3 years ago

Karl's streaming GnR live again now (and LIVE ONLY due to DMCA takedowns on saved content due to the music) with a temp probe on the upper right flipper this time and fans installed on the lower flippers and a temp probe on the lower right flipper (that hit 219F without fans last night).

https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball

#4916 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I get so pumped when I get a 2 or 3 ball power chord and Karl just got a 6 ball power chord like nothing...
It’s official.... I hate him.

He's very entertaining to watch. These jjGnR lightshows are great. I had only seen a handful before yesterday.

#4918 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I don't see any GNR video's on this link?

Live only because if he posts saved videos he gets an automatic DMCA takedown anyway from his friends at twitch due to all the GnR music. So, he just doesn't post them and only does it live. Wonderful world we live in now, eh?

#4920 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Well that sucks, the time difference here means it's doubtful I'll ever see anything live

He's usually streaming around 7 or 8pm US time, which is, what, 11am-12pm australia? He usually goes for about 2 hours from what I've seen. Seems like you should have a shot at some of them, especially on a weekend...

#4934 3 years ago
Quoted from Skipnatty:

Just a clarification on the Twitch VODs, they won't get taken down by Twitch currently. Twitch will mute those VODs where their software detects DMCA infringement, which in the case of GnR music, has been spotty depending on other sounds and such. Granted, Twitch does ask its broadcasters to remove VODs of broadcasts with copyright-infringing material.
There are other subtleties as well but wanted to clarify this as there has been a lot of chatter about it recently.

Yeah, I'm not super-up on it, I just know that Karl said on the stream a couple days ago he said he only does jjjGnR live because as of yet twitch doesn't do live DMCA mute/takedowns. Does kind of suck if you aren't able to view the stream live, especially with the added drama of watching coil temps live.

EDIT: I see Karl has popped in to clear it all up.

#4935 3 years ago
Quoted from Stags6969:

What was the outcome with the fan installed?

Quoted from MacJedi:

From what I saw on the stream last night, the fans were doing a good job. The day before with no fans he was measuring 219 degrees on one of his coils. After the fans were installed, I saw in the 135-145 degree range on his stream last night.

I only sent him enough to monitor two coil temps at the same time, and since the upper right hadn't been measured and didn't have a fan, we opted to measure the upper right FL-15411 uncooled and the large lower right FL-11629 cooled. It left the status of the lower left FL-15411 cooled a mystery, which was kind of a drag, because given its peak of 180F, with the cooler, it was probably about 125F cooled, and it would have been nice to see what it was doing.

I'm sending him updated brackets and an additional temp gauge so he'll be able to monitor all three coils cooled at the same time live.

Peak temp for the FL-16129 was 219.8F uncooled (a new record by far for hottest coil measured in my testing). Cooled, it touched temps in the 150s when he was trapping up a lot, but mostly it stayed in the 140s, about a 60F+ improvement. I've had a different fan not readily available in the US sent from the factory to test that has about 20% more CFM without too much more noise because I want to keep these as quiet as possible. It should be here next week. I'd like to see that FL-16129 in the 130s mostly with that fan, but not sure if it will be possible. If a player's style isn't to trap up for long stretches, the temps would stay in the 130s as-is with the current fan, but I like that Karl is stress testing due to his play style.

#4938 3 years ago
Quoted from ScreaminSauce:

I bet the temp on the left ramp diverter coil gets even hotter than the flippers - that one seems to be energized for long periods of time (due to locks for band members & power chord availalbilty during songs)

He mentioned that. We'll have a spare temp probe and display slot when I send him another, so he may put it on that coil to see how hot it's getting.

#5101 3 years ago
Quoted from Chetrico:

Every time the ball comes down the right ramp of the bass, it jumps into the glass. I'm trying to figure out the cause. It looks level.
[quoted image]

Film it in slow motion with your phone from multiple angles so you can see what's launching it.

#5115 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

However, we probably WILL put in the ability to cancel jet action by holding the flippers, but that's not in there yet. And it will most likely only work during times that really require it, like Applause and Slash Solo.

Or maybe make it a system menu option: "Pause bumper jet action during Applause and Slash Solo YES/NO" and default to NO so it's not confusing to users who don't know/don't care, but for people in the know, it can be set to "YES" once and then it just DOES it, no cancellation required manually each time.

#5125 3 years ago

Karl Deangelo is streaming GnR with all the flippers covered by fans and a temp probe on the left diverter that gets hot from being on all the time. Not even 5 minutes and the diverter coil is already 155F:

https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball

Check out the temp of that diverter after only 20 minutes!

karl_deangelo_stream from 1-20-2021 (resized).jpgkarl_deangelo_stream from 1-20-2021 (resized).jpg
#5128 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

1.09 was due to come out a bit ago, but then we were made aware of a CE crash bug and got log dumps that led us to finding another crash in all games. 1.10 and 1.11 were made in an emergency to correct the crash stuff, then 1.12 will be the next "normal" non-emergency release.

Will 1.12 have a change to the code to try to mitigate the extreme temps on the left diverter? In Karl's stream tonight that left diverter got to 219.9F. It surpassed the FL-11629 on the lower right flipper JJP has now changed out for FL-15411 on the machines built from the CEs forward (the FL-11629 uncooled reached 219.8F in the first test).
karl-diverter-hot_2021_01_20 (resized).jpgkarl-diverter-hot_2021_01_20 (resized).jpg

#5136 3 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Anyone have any tips to cut down on airballs off the targets? The targets flanking the ramps get that ball flying all over!

Reduce flipper power or replace the target bracket with the angled swinks ones (the best choice).

#5143 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Strange that Karl has a 11629 coil and both my lower flippers are 15411 and I got my game super early, one of the first deliveries. You sure 11629 wasn’t just a mistake on one machine?

Manual says 11629 goes there. So, it looks like a running change after the LEs (or maybe DURING the initial LE run). What's the date on your LE?

#5144 3 years ago
Quoted from Johny111:

Hi guys I just watched the latest post on jersey jacks Instagram with a snippet of the custom machines they made for the band members.
May be a dumb question but I could see on one of the screens that it said sympathy for the devil champion. Is this an add on? Or was it always in the game.

Maybe JJP couldn't get that one cleared or it was too expensive. Or maybe a future unveiling?

#5253 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Just downloaded 1.12 for my LE. What are the reports on the new code? Anything added?

There's supposed to be a fix for the left diverter to keep it from getting so hot. Dunno if it's in 1.12, but it's something to look for.

#5255 3 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

How do you "look for" it? I've never had a diverter issue over 1K games played.

Unless you had a temp gauge on it, you wouldn't know how hot it was getting - but it gets HOT on long plays. 219.9F in the last test. I'm assuming they changed the way the diverter works so it's not holding all the time. Maybe they just changed the pulses to it in hold, I dunno. Or, maybe 1.12 doesn't have the change yet...

#5267 3 years ago
Quoted from Huggers:

What are peoples feelings on the standard? I can't afford anything above it really but am still tempted by this game. Seems a lot of pin for the money. Anyone own one? How is it?

I'd save a little longer and get an LE. The omissions take too much away from the experience IMO.

#5296 3 years ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

OK I’m putting this out here once again not sure if there is enough GNRLE’s out in the world yet or if I am the only one having this issue but I have contacted support and so far we are hitting a brick wall. JJP has been very responsive though FYI as well as LTG.
This is not a huge deal but I would like it to connect for convenience for updates I know I can always get them manually from the website it doesn’t affect gameplay just looking for solutions.
I can’t seem to get it to connect to any network.
1. It sees my networks
2. I have plugged the dongle in to the board underneath the plastic cover and plugged it into the cable to the left of the coin box.
3. Password is correct
4. I’ve tried resetting my router multiple times.
5. Accepted the terms etc.
6. Signal strength is fantastic in the house.
It’s almost like something is unplugged somewhere? It’ll say reconnecting to network and then after about a minute gets disconnected again. Any ideas?[quoted image]

What model router do you have?
Is both g and n enabled?
What frequency are you using, 2.4ghz or 5ghz (or both)?
What channel are you using (channel number or auto)?

#5299 3 years ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

It’s a crazy Netgear gaming router I have both g and n enabled. Both frequencies are open. I’m actually unsure of the channel number.

Yes, but what exact model and version (if available) is printed on the router?

I'd try limiting the router to wireless g and one frequency (2.4Ghz first) and one channel (6 or 11 are best). Then see what you get for a connection. If you still can't connect, switch just the frequency to from 2.4 to 5Ghz only on the router and try again. You have too many variables, so you need to restrict them on the router side to find the issue.

#5302 3 years ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

Netgear Nighthawk XR500. I appreciate all the solutions I’ll give it a whirl![quoted image]

I'd also give Lermods all lowercase password a shot. If that doesn't work you can try turning wifi password security off completely (no wifi password at all) for a few minutes and then connect with no password to see if the wifi password security is the problem. It may be using a password key type that the GnR doesn't support (WPA vs WPA2, etc). All stuff to try to narrow down the actual area where the problem is.

#5307 3 years ago
Quoted from Ch4p3l:

Does anyone know can you replace the usb wifi connector dongle with a different one? Having a hard time getting the machine to connect to my network. I have a netgear orbi mesh system and have the 5ghz band turned off but still the wifi won't connect. Whereas I can run a speed test from the exact location as the pin and get great download and upload speed so know the problem isn't the signal strength (also the emblem when picking the network shows the strongest signal). I'm thinking the dongle is not compatible with my router as I remember my wife's work computer had similar issues until I swapped out the dongle. I see someone above swabbed out the wifi dongle and it worked so going to give that a try.

did you try changing your router wifi password to all lowercase? If that doesn't work, did you try turning wifi passwords off completely just to see if you could connect at all?

#5310 3 years ago
Quoted from Ch4p3l:

So changing out to a different usb dongle worked on the first try. If anyone is having trouble after trying different settings on the router then I definitely recommend trying a different dongle. Thanks for the poster who previously mentioned it.

What USB wifi dongle model did you change to?

#5339 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Hard to see in the photos....

Look at the tiny dot inserts over the world map. You can easily see many are raised.

gnr-liftinginserts (resized).jpggnr-liftinginserts (resized).jpg
#5381 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The more help the merrier !

Doesn't that perspective eventually lead to auditions for My 600lb Life?

#5478 3 years ago
Quoted from mrbillishere:

OTOH, if JJP would add even a rudimentary parametric equalizer to the settings menu (or find a way to expose anything that the audio circuitry has built-in like DSP pre-sets) I'd bet that would suffice too.

If it's really a big deal, just get a 10 band guitar pedal eq and equalize the mini-headphone jack output before it goes to the speakers. You could probably find one that will get the job done for less than $50.

#5494 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Hobbit is a uniquely noisy machine. Everyone that hears it for the first time asks if it is broken.

Pretty much second only to Hyperball. That individually controlled target action is LOUD.

#5515 3 years ago

FYI: Karl DeAngelo (iepinball) is streaming jjGnR tonight with what is possibly the final configuration of the JJP / jjGnR Tibetan Breeze kit. It's pretty cool when he does this because he puts the temperature gauges for the flipper coils on the screen in the stream so you can watch them in real time while he plays. 7-9pm PST tonight. He doesn't post these recordings for later viewing because of DMCA muting, so you have to catch it live if you want to see it.

karl-diverter-hot_2021_01_20 (resized).jpgkarl-diverter-hot_2021_01_20 (resized).jpg

#5517 3 years ago
Quoted from BeeGee6533:

Awesome! Looking forward to the stream and to purchasing these when they are available! Are you thinking of making this for the left ramp diverter coil as well or would that not be practical or necessary?

I wasn't planning on making it for the diverter coil, but that was before I saw how hot it gets. JJP is supposedly trying to mitigate the heat a bit with software changes. He has the new software on GnR, so it will be interesting to see if it helps with diverter temps.

The power leads are 2 at a time, so a 3 flipper kit has an extra lead meaning you could buy just an extra fan and bracket for the diverter coil if you wanted to cool it. What it looks like after the test tonight will tell if they made any advances in controlling the meteoric rise of the diverter temps in the new software.

Once the GnR testing is done I can send kits out to the beta testers of all the other JJP machines, and once fit and function is verified on those, I can release the JJP Tibetan Breeze kit for everyone, probably like the 3rd week in Feb or so.

11
#5591 3 years ago

Here's a graph comparing the uncooled/stock right flipper coil of jjGnR with the cooled version Karl tested on his stream last night. This right flipper is the original larger/hotter 11629 JJP seems to have done away with in favor of the somewhat cooler 15411, but it illustrates what a huge difference the cooling kits make - 100F less at peak temps here. The 15411 JJP has changed to is about 50F less at peak temps.

The jjGnR testing for the Tibetan Breeze kit is done now and tomorrow or Monday I'll be sending out kits to the beta testers with the other JJP titles to test the fit of the kit and temps on them. Once I have those results, I can release it. If all goes well with that (and I expect it to) we're on track for a release of the JJP Tibetan Breeze kit for the third week of Feb.

right-flipper-temp-compare (resized).jpgright-flipper-temp-compare (resized).jpg
#5595 3 years ago
Quoted from BeeGee6533:

I’m really looking forward to this being available to buy. It’s going to help a lot. I have these for my Stern Iron Maiden Premium and they really work. Thx for these innovations, Pinmonk!

Thanks for the support! I thought I'd post the jjGnR graph since it's an extreme example of temps and how much the fans can take off them. jjGnR was really tough to get the temps down on. I ended up stepping the fan CFM up twice and it will use a fan not widely available in the US in anything more than onesie-twosie qty, so I had to special order them from Taiwan. It has 50% more CFM than any of the other Tibetan Breeze kits for much better airflow, which in Karl's testing I found was pretty much mandatory to get the extreme temps down and keep them there. Unfortunately that means it will be a little more expensive, but the goal is to keep the cooled coils below the threshold of fade, so flipper performance stays crisp no matter how long you play. On jjGnR with the standard fan and even a +20% CFM fan it wasn't enough to guarantee it would stay below that threshold based on the tests, so the +50% CFM one became THE fan for all JJP games.

One interesting thing is the 3 flipper JJP kit leaves one power lead that can be used for a 4th bracket to cool the left diverter coil if people want. That diverter gets VERY hot, but I don't think the heat really affects performance in-game, just maybe smells like burning after a few hours. Initially in tests it hit temps of 219.9F after a few hours of play, but with the new software in Karl DeAngelo's latest test it never quite got above 200F, so...whatever JJP did made it somewhat better, but still not great. Cooling it will be an option for those that want to do it if they buy the 3 flipper kit because of that extra power lead.

#5790 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

FYI the download part took well over an hour for me. Maybe closer to two hours though I wasn't monitoring it.
The install part was quicker and did not hang.
The default upper right flipper power is now 12 which is a lot lower than it was previously if I'm not mistaken. If you like playing "in spec" you'll want to make sure you're still at default there.
Currently running my lower flippers at default+1.

Upper right default used to be 18.
Upper Playfield was 10.

Karl's streaming jjGnR again right now with 1.13 and the temp gauges on screen for the coils. He's going for the wizard mode tonight.

EDIT: He made it to the wizard mode and has 5 balls left to do it again. Wizard mode is definitely in the game and quite different from other ones. Uses all the buttons, reverses flippers, puts the player in charge of manually activating the pop bumpers with the action button - crazy stuff.

You can see the video here, and the wizard mode starts at about 1:26:00:
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/909339890

2021_02_10_wizard_mode_karl (resized).jpg2021_02_10_wizard_mode_karl (resized).jpg

Almost 100 million jackpot tonight:
2021_02_10_837PM_applause_jackpot (resized).jpg2021_02_10_837PM_applause_jackpot (resized).jpg

#5814 3 years ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

The plate says "GNR GAME TEAM EDITION" across the top (I believe), with "SLASH" directly below it.
Better Pic included.
[quoted image]

"GNR FAN EDITION" confirmed. 500 more CE level trim machines incoming.

#5827 3 years ago
Quoted from BeeGee6533:

I found a nasty bug in 1.13 code:
During Mr Brownstone I had a nice big Applause jackpot that I hit and still had 3 other balls in play. I got the encore. But the game became locked in an “Encore” feedback loop. It showed the Encore animation on the screen, flippers went dead, all balls in the trough, the audio chanted “Encore! Encore! Encore!” endlessly. No balls hung up. Couldn’t even tilt out of it. The game just kept looping this Encore animation. Couldn’t even enter the service menu screen. Had to turn power off and on. Also sucks bc I had a HUGE game going.

According to Karl DeAngelo, another major bug is playing Patience can also wipe out all your album progress. Not quite as severe as your bug, but still a pretty big bug.

#5839 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Preach it Dr.Joe!! As far as im concerned, this game is shaping up to be a masterpiece. Its one critical flaw right now is the scoring balance, and tied in with that is the ability to postpone start song. Even more so when it's given as an "award".

On the stream the other day, Karl said Keith (I think it was Keith?) asked him for his scoring data because he was going to balance the song scoring.

Somewhere in this stream he mentions it:
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/909339890

#5908 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Looking for some tech help:
Magnet just stopped working. Anyone know where to start looking? I checked underneath and connections seem good. Maybe a fuse?
EDIT: doesn’t seem to be the fuse as that fuse is tied into the upper right flipper and ramp diverter, both of which are working.

If bypassing the resistor on the magnet doesn't work, check the transistor (Q328) on the driver board. Might have blown it.

#5933 3 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

Extra balls are next to impossible without the magnet.

Eskaybee needs more balls like he needs a hole in the head.

#5950 3 years ago
Quoted from pingrrrl:

Mine also just started having an issue with the left flipper. When I go in to test mode and hit the right fliper in blinks once. When I hit the left flipper, it blinks multiple times. When I play the left flipper is irratic. Sometimes it will flip twice, other times it is weak, or delayed.
Any thoughts?

Sounds like your leaf switch for the left flipper button is bent too far away from the button post and isn't making good contact when depressed (or the wire isn't soldered on the switch well and about to fall off). Take a pic of that area and post. Try bending the switch leaves closer to the button post when it's at rest so they make contact quicker and more solidly when the button is depressed.

#5955 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

What would cause my issue of flipper dropping when it's hit, is that a faulty coil winding on the eos bit or is it just another go at getting the switch adjusted better? can't play it and it's killing me.

Check your EOS switch gapping.

In switch test mode, manually move the flipper up and see when EOS changes, do the same starting with the flipper maxed out and gradually bring it down. Then gap the EOS so it's triggered near the max position when going up or coming down.

If you adjust that and it's still dropping when hit, you may have a bad hold winding on the coil OR the transistor for the hold state may be blown on the board. I think both of those are much less likely than an EOS out of adjustment, though.

#5960 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

I temporarily loosened the entire assembly and shifted the blades left and right so those little welded nibs make better contact. That (so far) eliminated the issue [quoted image]

That blade gap is pretty wide. I'd bend the back one forward so it closes that gap about 50%.

#5964 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Fucked if i know. It works for 1 ball after adjusting then fucks up a different way each time. This time it started only going up halfway every now and then and then started working only every second or third push of the button.
Switch test allows me to operate the switch, but nothing shows on the screen as working or not, just shows the wire colours.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Yeah, it looks like the leaf closest to the flipper button post with the crappy spot weld is bending backwards when the post goes in fully. Try bending the top of that leaf forward a bit so when it tries to bend back, it ends up straightening out. Also, you could try loosening the two screws holding the switch and seeing if you can move it down just a little so the post for the button is hitting right on the crappy weld area instead of just below it. That should prevent the bending back in the first place.

#5986 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Aaaand, it's shit itself again. Got 15 or 20 games out of it this time.
Does anyone know what switches will work in it? Like a Williams switch or something that will control the three right flippers and fit properly?
I'd like to replace the shitty switches that keep bending and going out of whack with some decent ones. I need a part number or something so i can order them here in Australia is all.

Did you try loosening and moving the switch assembly down just a little? Your button post is hitting below the crappy weld, which makes the leaf want to bend back. If you can get the post to hit more on the same area as the well, on the other side, it shouldn't bend backwards anymore.

You could also try screwing a wide pan-head screw on the end of the button post to give it more surface area where it connects the flipper switch. That may work, too.

#5999 3 years ago

The foam prototype came in for the new kit packaging, which means the JJP Tibetan Breeze kit is getting close to release. Should be about 7-10 days out now. They are using fans that push 50% more CFM to keep the temps down more effectively. In Karl's test series the standard fan just didn't keep the temps where I wanted them (100-120F), so I had to go to a beefier fan for JJP. Finding the right balance of extra CFM and low noise was the problem, but it's good now.

JJP_Kit_600x (resized).jpgJJP_Kit_600x (resized).jpg

#6002 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Are you building a list? If so, please place me on it for my GnR ...

No list. It's too much to manage them with everything else I have going on. I'll put the JJP Tibetan Breeze kit in the store once I know the foam is shipped because it's 2-3 days out at that point. Then when it gets here, I'll have the orders ready and I can start shipping immediately. The brackets are the slowest part, but I've been printing them for a couple weeks to have a good stock headstart.

#6025 3 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

6.8 pitch +1 power boost to the lower flipper strength. They lowered the default flipper strength considerably, I had to raise mine back to the old default. Was 18 before? I forget. But it was 6 ticks or so higher than the new.

"Old" coil defaults were:
Left flipper 22
Right flipper 25
Upper Right flipper 18
Upper PF flipper 10

#6027 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

I haven't talked to my distributor or JJP about it yet as i'd rather replace them with decent switches. I only need to know which ones to order that will fit. I mean this is the major moving part, an extra 50 cents won't break them.
might have to start pulling some of my other machines to bits to find out for myself what will substitute.
Thanks, i'll pull it to bits again shortly and see if i can find a way to dodgy it up.

I don't know why everyone went back to leaf style flipper switches instead of the later B/W style opto sensor flipper switches. Seems like 5 steps back.

#6030 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I have no idea but maybe one or more of the following:
Cost?
Complexity?
Mean time between failures?

Cost is the only one I can buy, but even then it just takes an opto driver and JJPs already have a multi opto driver board, often with unused slots. B/W flipper button optos were not that common on route in my experience and they only failed usually if they got too much coil dust covering the opto, which was an easy fix. Seems like this would be low hanging fruit for JJP before the switch sensors they went to.

Maybe because it makes it harder to stage when you're trapping up since both flippers go at almost the same time on games with upper flippers? But even that's fixable with an adjustable secondary interrupter that you can move in or out to interrupt at the same time as the lower flipper or a little later, to your preference.

The only other thing I can think of is the button resistance feels different, but that's also fixable with some experimentation with various gauges of a spring steel reinforcement strip until you get the one that feels right.

#6038 3 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

Will you be selling via Ministry of Pinball for these in Europe as well?

Yes, but there will be a delay of likely a month or two getting them stocked with the JJP kit. It takes me a little while to satisfy the wave of initial direct orders before I can send out distributor orders.

#6077 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

what do y’all have your flipper power at? This game plays so much better with powerful flippers but I want to make sure I’m not gonna to damage my game. Right now I am at +2 on each flipper, 18 on upper

You're not going to damage your game with a +2, your flipper coils will just heat up and fade faster. That's about it.

#6115 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

It just goes straight to 'failed to update'. Used the same stick i use to update other machines, clean wiped and installed.
Why is everything so hard? And why release shit that doesn't work and use us as guinea pigs?
I'm stuck, can't update via wifi and can't update via usb.

What version are you on and what are you trying to update to? If it's a delta update, you do it from the system menu.

#6140 3 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

Its a store in the Netherlands but it is 230 Volts and they don't ship it because of the fragility.
https://www.fiftiesstore.nl/guns-n-roses-guitar-shaped-neon-sign-119-x-45-cm.html

Yes, but YOU ship for your good pinside buddies willing to take the breakage risk, right?

#6145 3 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

Why? Are you interested pinmonk? I thought you would be far to busy to make sure our GNR's aren't overheating their coils.

I can't even get my hands on a machine yet, so not for me, for your other US pinside buddies.

But thank you!

#6196 3 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

So it's actually a thermal fuse (I mistakenly thought it was a resistor originally because I've never seen a coil that is thermal fused), so a lower power coil won't help. They must have fused the coil in case it gets too hot through overuse. Mine blew twice on play sessions that were only a game or two so either the coil is under-fused (design flaw), over-used via software (bad code somewhere), or they have bad fuses. Hopefully they find the root cause soon.
I bypassed the fuse after my first one went, and it was working fine. When the new coil arrived, I put that in, only for it to fail again within a few games. My gut feeling is it's locking on too long during a certain song mode that is played long (or some other game situation that doesn't happen every game).

I'd take it off and put on a slightly larger inline fuse.

#6199 3 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

Maybe we need a Pin Monk fan on that coil!

The left diverter does. Crazy temps on that. The magnet doesn't get used that much relative to the flipper coils, does it?

#6203 3 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

At what point do you just install a whole house fan in the cabinet? lol Pin-AC-systems

I think cooling the flipper coils covers enough for most pins. GnR just has a number of non-flipper trouble spots. Also, for a diverter seems like they have too much coil, too.

#6230 3 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

THIS 1000X! Fuckin' start song as a "reward" from the scoop before the player is ready. JJP, come on guys.... its an easy fix! Such a damn letdown to be on the way to an epic booster buildup, then, SHIT!! Fucking start song fron scoop again. Its enough to make me walk away from the damn game.

Yeah, I have to believe pinball_keefer already has some ideas knocking around in his head to address this.

Seems like you should be able to decline mystery awards by holding the action button. "Play Song" is more of a punishment than a reward. Or, alternately give three mystery award choices, it defaults to one, but you can choose a different one with the flippers within in 5 seconds.

#6232 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

New shooter rod.
And as far as any of the decals, I’m making do and just having some fun, nothing that can’t be redone. Did that rhyme? maybe. I currently am without a good color printer after mine bit the dust. The decal in the shooter housing is a $3 decal off ebay that I modified to fit the area. When my new printer arrives, I'll be able to print a final version all adjusted and whatever.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What, no original run Virgin Killer or Animal Magnetism Scorps album covers on your wall montage?

#6235 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I can only take so much Scorpions.

I thought maybe you were just going for an uncontroversial wall.

#6269 3 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

A lot cheaper at , pinball spare parts Australia . [quoted image][quoted image]

Look at the difference in the contacts, though. that's where your "savings" went.

#6272 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Does anyone recognize this screw? I found it in the bottom of the cabinet (roughly under the record area.)
No idea where it came from.
[quoted image]

Forget the screw, that's some life line you have there.

#6274 3 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

D’oh!
[quoted image]
After ball search failed it gave me another ball and I was able to shoot it up to the guitar lock which freed the other two balls. Only problem was the game lost count of the number of balls in play and prematurely ended. Oh well, better than having to take the glass off.

This doesn't seem that uncommon. Adding some length to the bottom two points of that passive diverter and maybe reducing their angle a little bit should "close" the path to the ball behind, even if the balls are close together. That can be done now.

#6298 3 years ago
Quoted from bridgeman:

So has anyone bypassed the magnet resistor/fuse permanently without any adverse effects?

I would not do that. You want some fuse inline somewhere (and it seems like an inline glass fuse in a fuse holder with an LED on the power lead wire to the coil would be the best). Anyone that's seen discolored addams family playfields from the magnets locking on without fuses knows why.

Alternately, having a thermal switch on the coil that just cuts power and lets it cool off when it gets too hot, then re-engages once it falls below a certain temp would be attractive, too.

#6302 3 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

Or maybe JJP can figure out what’s wrong with the code. This same magnet was used in Wonka with no issue. Now it’s failing quickly, and impacting gameplay (top lanes are too hard to collect). My guess is the endless multiballs keep it energized too long but that’s only a guess. I’ve had 2 fail quickly and don’t see the point of putting in another until they figure this out.

Well it seems to be an case of over-use of the coil, but putting a thermal switch on it would be better than a fuse (or maybe a switch AND a higher-rated fuse). At least then it could turn off if it's getting close to the point of blowing the fuse until it cools down, then turns back on automatically when the coil has cooled.

I assume long-term there will be some changes to the software, but who knows for sure?

#6330 3 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

Brian,
Hey, hope all's well. I got my game with 1.08 on it so I'm not sure about earlier code. It's not worth putting in a new coil (or thermal fuse) until they find the root cause. The left ramp diverter seems to get over-worked too. That one doesn't have a thermal fuse. If it did, it would be failing too because that one gets hot.

Left ramp diverter is better with current code than it was. Before it could get to 220F, and with the newer code it stays around 180F on long games and can't crack 200F in peaks. That's still very hot, but peaks aside is about a 20% improvement, which is moving the right direction.

#6370 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

fans aren’t available yet correct?

JJP Tibetan Breeze 3 flipper kits should be up for orders and shipping next week. Just got word the foam for the new packaging will be here next week.

#6371 3 years ago
Quoted from Dashmonster:

Hopefully JJP takes advantage of WiFi code updates and adds a TON of content to GnR. If they tuned up the wizard modes code and even trickled a new song or two into the game they would sell every LE they make. How much would you pay for new songs? Slippery slope I know but I admit I would pay for records in my jukebox

WoZ was code supported for like 6 years, and some of those updates were MONSTERS. So I think jjGnR will be fine.

#6375 3 years ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

Do you have a link to order these for the JJP GNR?

Not yet. Next week, they'll be in the pinmonk store on pinside here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk

And also on pinmonk.com under the jjGnR section

#6385 3 years ago
Quoted from Shmilder:

Will you be shipping internationally?

Yes, international orders can be placed on pinmonk.com.

#6401 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Do you guys think I could just use something like this to connect it?
ebay.com link: 1PC NEW 10PIN Solderless Push in Pin Header 2x5 0 1 2 54mm spacing
I really don’t want to take out the board and take my horrible soldering skills to this thing....

If you've got to add he header anyway, why half-ass it? Put the right angle connector on. That Amazon one will require you to cut or somehow move the plastic shield over the board because the wire will point straight out.

#6406 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Hmmm do you think that will prevent the headphone adapter from working? Seems insane to sell a music pin that can’t be used with headphones?

Yeah, it looks like all the stuff to drive that output is also missing and the board is specifically labeled for SE machines, so it's likely not working even if you add the header.

All that is is audio out, though, so you could probably put a splitter on the audio output on the mini-headphone port on back of the PC motherboard and run that to the jack on the front with a long cable and an adapter to that 4 pin connector.

#6408 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Do you think I would be able to use the volume control? Could you show me what kind of adapter you are talking about? Thanks

I'm not sure what output the PC motherboard in your jjGnR has, but most PC motherboards have both line out and stereo out (amplified), so the volume control should work since you can choose which output it needs (amplified or not). For the cable, I don't know of an existing one, you'd likely have to make it. I thought pinnovators would have a kit for this, but it looks like they don't, so I don't have a ready-made recommendation for this SE-only dilemma.

#6412 3 years ago
Quoted from MarkA:

I'll be home tomorrow if you want me to solder it in for you. I have the connector in stock too.
Ah but after reading more, I can see that you don't have those other components on your board.
How many of you out there want a Pinnovators headphone kit for an SE???
If enough people want one then we will consider it!
Mark

Dunno how many SEs will eventually get made, but it seems like a large number of them will be looking for something like this...

#6420 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Does your right flipper fade much faster than your left flipper? I’m wondering if there is an issue with it... just had a decently long game, three songs two all the way to applause jackpot and by the end of it making the left ramp was 50-50. The left flipper seems to keep its power no problem.

In testing the right flipper gets hotter than the left as it's used more. It's especially an issue if you have one of the builds with the larger FL-11629 coils on the right flipper rather than the smaller, cooler FL-15411 (that still fades in GnR, but not as fast as it doesn't get as hot as fast). It seems like JJP has moved to FL-15411s on all three main flippers now, but there are still some out there with a single larger FL-11629 on the right (or strangely, just the upper right instead on at least one) that will get even hotter than the 15411s. You can tell what you have by looking at the numbers on the flipper coil wrappers. 15411s still fade, but they seem to top out about 40-50F less than the 11629s (unless you trap play a lot, in which case all bets are off). So still pretty bad, but not as bad.

In one of the non-cooled baseline temp tests Karl Deangelo (who traps a lot) had a temp of 219.8F on the right flipper. In the final long test, the Tibetan Breeze kit installed cut 100F off that temp and restored full power, but it was a struggle getting there. It required multiple tests with increasingly more powerful fans since the standard fan I use in the Spike and Spooky kits didn't have enough CFM to keep the coil below the fade zone. We stepped up from the standard fan to one with 20% more CFM to finally one with 50% more CFM to get to a point where the temps could be held below the fade zone with only maybe a quick spike into the bottom of it if there was a lot of trapping for a long time (we're talking like 20min straight). So the JJP kit will be different than all the other kits so far in that the fan is much more powerful because of the extreme temps the coils generate.

Here's a graph of the temps from those two tests on the right flipper. You can see that the uncooled right flipper was already at a crazy 195F after only about 30 minutes of play...
right-flipper-temp-compare (resized).jpgright-flipper-temp-compare (resized).jpg

And here's one where all the jjPotC flippers were compared uncooled vs cooled that's pretty illustrative...
jjPotC-temp-compare (resized).jpgjjPotC-temp-compare (resized).jpg

#6422 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Can I pay you now for this kit?

Haha, it'd be too much to keep track of. I've had people trying to do that for literally weeks. It'll be in the two pinmonk stores (here on pinside and on pinmonk.com) late next week and then I'll ship off of that order list.

#6425 3 years ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

I’m interested in your fans also but had a few questions. On the graph above it looks like the test was done with the older coil FL-11629 and I was wondering if you tried the test on the cooler coil FL-15411 and did it still need the upgraded fan(compared to the left fan) to keep the smaller coil cool? Great mod man reminds me of my R/C racing days and we were always fighting heat temps on our motors and ESC’s.

The test was done with all the flippers on jjGnR, I just made that right flipper only FL-11629 graph to illustrate the extreme temps. jjPotC is all 15411s (well, they should be according to the manual, but who knows what JJP put in there. GnR has some...interesting...assembly deviations). With trapping that Karl does, the max temp on jjPotC was even crazier peaks. But that should give you an idea about 15411 temp performance for longer sessions in JJP games.

On jjGnR the lesser-used FL-15411 for lower left and upper right maxed out at 180.2F and 181F uncooled, well beyond the fade threshold. They were 115F and 110.2F cooled, respectively.

#6433 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

I can't wait to order these! It's enough when I have a long game but I've been playing with my son-in-law and when both of us have a great game ... well, the flipper fade is even more "noticeable"

For most people (i.e. regular players that don't trap much or at all), just having the fans will keep the coils crisp as long as they play. But the nice thing about having actively-cooled flipper coils is even if you are a heavy trap player and trap up for 20 minutes, having a great ball and peak just over the very beginning of the fade zone, if you leave the next ball in the trough for about a minute, it will cool the coil you were abusing almost back to 100F very quickly. If you do that without fans it's pretty worthless because it takes much longer for the coil to cool down on its own.

#6435 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

Gives YOU and the coils a chance to cool down for a minute. Have a break, have a coolcoil™. :-p

Yeah, that's for sure. Long games and widebodies are my kryptonite these days. My hands start going numb after manhandling a machine for 30-45 minutes straight, I think because of the angle of my wrists and crappier middle-age circulation. I have to shake my hands out between balls to keep things moving.

#6454 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I’ve never heard the fans. But I am also not bothered by power supply fans (I can hear those).

The JJP kits are a little louder than the Stern TB kits because I needed much higher CFM to keep the temps in check on JJP coils (50% more CFM). I tried 20% more CFM as an interim test with Karl, but it just wasn't enough to keep the coil heat down, and even with 50% more CFM it is still possible to barely break a peak into the beginning of fade if you trap for literally 20 minutes straight. That's how crazy the JJP coil temps are. Fortunately, as soon as you lose the ball or stop trapping for literally a minute the fans bring the temps down very quickly.

3 Stern kit fans running together put out about 17.8dB total. 3 of the JJP fans put out about 25.8dB running together. Still very quiet, but louder than the Spike/Spooky kits.

#6461 3 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

There is nothing wrong with the flippers on this game.
Some people are concerned about temps, cool. Most people aren’t, they aren’t broken, it’s just how pinball is.

Exactly. Fade has been around for a LOOOONG time. It's just more prominent now with more complicated, longer games and new hardware platforms. Lots of people don't even play 30-45 minutes straight at a time to even get TO the beginnings of fade, so they'll never notice it, which is why it makes no sense to install coil coolers on all machines at the factory level. For those that want/need it there's a solution available.

#6472 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

High temps causing issues as gameplay moves on is a problem. Flippers get hot on any pin, but when it affects game play it’s broken and needs a fix

Okay, so using this logic, pinball has apparently been broken, with coils that heat up due to the laws of thermodynamics for 30 years or more. Why are you suddenly upset about it now, demanding a factory fix? Because there's an aftermarket solution now? That makes no sense. The people that have the issue will buy a kit. The people that don't play long enough to see fade won't and they'll still be happy.

#6479 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Who said I’m upset, I haven’t even got the pin yet. You got 2 pages talking about selling fans to cool down factory flipper coils and there isn’t a problem? I simply stated I’m hoping I don’t need to buy fans to keep my factory flipper coils from performing, this isn’t even an argument

A> This isn't a new problem. You're only reading about it so much because there's a solution for it now and people enjoy having the option.
B> Flippers still work, even when faded. You just don't get top performance out of them. Same fade story since forever.
C> You're right, there is no argument, fade is not new. JJP didn't invent it. Ask tournament players about classic 1980s and 1990s B/W machines that faded on them late in a tournament.

There's no hoping required. For jjGnR, if you play 30 minute sessions or less you will likely not notice fade at all. If you play longer sessions (especially if you trap up) you will likely notice fade. This isn't a defect, it isn't new, but there is a ready made solution now if you don't like it. Simple.

#6492 3 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

PS , if I install the fans , does that void my warranty .

I don't know what the warranty laws are in Australia, but I doubt it.

#6493 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

quick update on my headphone adapter situation, the controller board with the proper connection/hardware was supposed to be included in the kit. They are sending it to me. Crisis averted.

That's great news.

10
#6525 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

pin monk fans available yet?

Not yet. Getting close. We had the wires for one of the fans installed in the field pop off the solder pads in the fan spontaneously, and that may be related to a number of out of the blue failures of the "standard" type fans from the last shipment (before that there was like 1-2 fans that failed ever in 2 years). It seems like maybe the factory worker just pressed too hard when stripping the wires and scored the remaining wires, weakening them, and the machine vibration did the rest with the wires breaking clean off the solder pads at the insulation.

I have 8 JJP 3 flipper kits out and this is the only one of the 24 fans installed that failed, so it's probably a fluke, but I want to be sure and want to understand what happened to make sure that whatever changes need to be made at the factory are made before I start shipping these. This last-minute investigation is going to push the launch into next week though.

Here's a picture of the whole kit to hold you, though. I'm including the precision cutters with this kit for the zip tie installation since the higher CFM fans just to better control the hotter-coil JJP machines are bumping the price up over the Spooky kits that have the standard fans. Trying to give a little extra value.

JJP_Kit_Sml (resized).jpgJJP_Kit_Sml (resized).jpg
#6531 3 years ago
Quoted from RA77:

Kit looks brilliant, going next level by including cutters and all securing hardware, very cool, Nice work Vic.
Where do you pick the supply from ? I guess current draw for each fan is only in the milliamps ?

On JJP machines, the power tap plugs in different places depending on if you have a WoZ, a Hobbit, or a machine from Dialed In onward and I have illustrations for each point. Basically you're chasing a 12v connection from the ATX computer power supply, but it comes in different forms depending on which machine you have. For jjGnR (back to Dialed In) it'll be the PWR1 connector on the upper right of the large rectangular driver circuit board in the lower part of the head. There's a ATX style connector coming off that and you can trace back folllowing the wires plugged in there a few inches to a molex connector junction and insert my power tap there. It's also fuse and rectifier diode protected. Though not as necessary as the Spike one protecting the node board, I still included it on the Spooky and JJP ones for a little extra protection.

The wire next to the splitter in the picture is unfamiliar to Spike and Spooky Tibetan Breeze customers because it's a 4' extender cable I'm providing to get the power off that splitter in the head (WoZ and Hobbit won't use it) down into the cabinet before it is split and heads up to the bracketed fans on the playfield. I wanted to make sure there was plenty of wire length available so there was no pulling, even when the head was raised and lowered for those machines with the power tap in the head.

Yeah, the current draw is a fraction of 1A for all three fans combined. The pic below is the amp draw for all three fans running together. It fluctuates between 0.15 and 0.16A.

3-JJP-fan-draw_sml (resized).jpg3-JJP-fan-draw_sml (resized).jpg

#6537 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

I can’t decide what to move on! LOL

Such a GREAT lineup. GotG is an easy out. After that, I'd say BK:SoR, but you have the dope animated topper, so that gives it a spell of protection from eviction. After that, the choices get significantly harder. Monster Bash is gorgeous, but it's just kind of a dull game to play, so that'd probably be in the running. Ditto Dialed-In. Looks good, but repetitive and has a lot of disjointed components of the theme that never really came together into a cohesive satisfying play experience.

Glad you have to make the decisions, though.

#6538 3 years ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

Thank you! That is a relief! Any idea, then, why my left flipper gets stuck in the up position for a few seconds on a regular basis? What should I look for, if you have any idea? I could use any help that I can get ...

Sounds like a broken coil stop or maybe the EOS switch is flexing and getting on the wrong side of the interrupter, holding it up. I'd check the coil stop first since that's super easy.

#6540 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Just goes to show ya different strokes for different folks.
If it were me TOM & NF would be on the block a long time before GOTG &/Or DI.
Great collection though no doubt.

ToM would be long gone for me, too, but he specifically says it's loved, so that ain't goin' anywhere. Trying to be realistic for once.

#6598 3 years ago
Quoted from Leachdude:

Game is for sure bugged with new code, Standard Edition. Last ball, in a song mode, Welcome to the Jungle single ball. Ball drains, kick another ball flippers die and game over. Has done other weird things like auto launching my next ball if I dont finish a song as well.
Any way to go back to old code?

Sure. Go back to the last full install ISO version and install that, then do the delta upgrades to get to the one before the bad one.

#6601 3 years ago
Quoted from MapleSyrup:

Me “I used the USB cable that’s right by the coin box... Wait... WAS that TINY black cap that I thought was just a plastic protector on the end of the USB cable, “The Wifi Dongle”?!?!
Luckily I’d dropped it in to the coin box for some reason instead of throwing it out, despite believing it was merely a plastic cap to protect the USB end from getting crushed... or something!
I’m an idiot.

I don't know why they don't have the wifi usb dongle plugged into the motherboard in the head. You don't really NEED access to it.

#6624 3 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

This is annoying me at the moment. Keep getting the ball stuck on the centre pick spinner. Can't shake it loose. Have to tilt to get it out every time.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Does the spinner turn easily? Maybe it's binding just slightly?

-1
#6673 3 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

Dammit. Just saw this while playing with a buddy of mine. Anyone else have seen this issue. The decal is coming loose and will not re attach. What makes it worse its taken the text of the speaker. Issued a support ticket with JJP. Hope it will get resolved that way.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

3M 467MP is made for repairs like this (and making new target stickers with it and mylar sandwiching a printed square). They sell it on Amazon in rolls of various widths and lengths. A must for a pinball toolkit.

#6712 3 years ago
Quoted from jints56:

Tried 4 different ones so far. USB 2.0 and 3.0 sticks. 2 8gbs, a 16gb and a 32 gb. Just doesn’t want to boot off the usb for some reason. Even tried the other boot utility suggested in instructions. Probably best to wait for update over WiFi I’m guessing. Thanks

Windows or Mac?

#6714 3 years ago
Quoted from jints56:

Tried both to make sure it wasn’t related. Must be something with the machine not allowing it to boot for some reason.

Attach a keyboard and keep hitting F2 at boot to get to the BIOS menu, then check the boot priority listing.

#6718 3 years ago
Quoted from jints56:

Great idea. Didn’t even cross my mind to do that.

That was the issue. Thanks for the help!!

Awesome. Glad you're back in business.

#6719 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

I doubt that JJP have even shipped 500. There are others on this thread that could give you a better estimate.

According to the serial numbers posted, you're probably right.

#6748 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

have to say this seems like a weird design? any other games with something like that?

I can't think of any offhand, except maybe the path of adventure diverter at the top of the right ramp on Indy, but that is timed so it only stays held for a short period of time.

It seems to me that there should have been a small unlocking coil added so the diverter coil enables, the diverter clicks into a locked position, diverter coil releases, but the diverter stays locked. When it needs to change the diverter back, the small coil releases the lock and the diverter pops back. One more tiny coil and some extra metal, but it would have made it much more reliable long-term setup, IMO.

Whatever changes they made to the software recently has helped (the diverter can't quite crack 200F now), but even 200F is too hot.

#6751 3 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Pretty much every EM made had relays that worked that way; two coils, one to latch and the other to unlatch. Single coil is just a cheaper way to implement is my guess.

It's not like it's a lost technology or something. JJP has used it in other games.

#6835 3 years ago
Quoted from PBINTHESOUTH:

Ah yes.. instructions.. those are useful.. thanks.. I din't see the the UNEBOOTIN part.. I don't know why they just don't have you copy directly the downloaded file to the USB drive... much easier..
AND yes on the password there is no choice for the = sign in my PW..

They don't have you just copy the file to the USB because if you did, it wouldn't boot. That utility makes the USB image bootable.

#6926 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

You can't make every game the same. Gnr took several chances, and I'm pretty happy with the general response to it, so I'd say they paid off.
It's a game that is certainly more than the sum of its parts, and there's not much I'd change about anything other than obvious tidying up.
We really wanted to make an experience, and for it to be fun. We were questioning ourselves for awhile, but it all started coming together near the end and we had a great time battling reach other. Seems most people ”get it”.
The maxim you can't please all people all the time certainly holds.

I think you really nailed the experience. About all you could add is a branch of mini wizard modes where you complete the band member's solo/alternate projects. But, while potentially fun, that would probably have been licensing hell and doesn't exactly mesh with this specific tour theme.

But what was the deal with that left diverter almost always being on? Why didn't it have a lock and a lock-releasing mini-coil so it didn't need to be held for long stretches, heating it up to 200F?

#6959 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Sweet! Sensors working with new board! They must know the Rev A board has issues since there's a Rev B but that's just speculation.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Is there a physical difference in components you can see on the Rev B board?

#6964 3 years ago

I know a lot of jjGnR owners are waiting for the JJP Tibetan Breeze 3 flipper cooling kit, so I'm posting here (and in the CE thread) to let anyone waiting for one know that they'll go up on Pinmonk.com tomorrow (Sat) and start shipping next week. They'll be added to the Pinside Pinmonk store after that. Everyone will be able to get one that wants one, but there may be a backup at the beginning, even though I've stockpiled brackets for the launch.

#7014 3 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

unfortunately when i went on the site this morning (saturday) it was allready sold out. Just have to a bit more patience...
Game still plays great but if i might be going the streaming route in the future it will have to be there. Watching the website like a hawk....

Just getting it set up. I needed to add all the JJP machines first, so it's 0 stock until I have that all ready.

Should be up shortly.

#7015 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

be worried. My game is bust because the coil fried the transistor... Coil might also be fried - week old game ->
[quoted image]
Neil.

Is that the diverter coil?

#7022 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

I agree, the design for that divertor isn't going to cut it. Put it this way if I was an operator I wouldn't put this game on site for fear of it burning the place down.

Software changes helped the temps on the diverter, but I don't know if they can ever do enough in software alone. Before the software change it was hitting 219F, which is crazy. After the software change it would come close to 200F, but couldn't crack it. But close to 200F for long play stretches is bad.

IMO, it should have a springloaded locking clip and a mini coil to fire that releases the lock as needed. That way both coils would only pulse once with no holds.

#7052 3 years ago
Quoted from Gambeno:

Wanted to get some ideas on how to protect a clear coat issue I have at the, "make some noise" flipper. The game was like this nib before I even played it and I haven't given it much thought, I figured if this might be an issue years down the road I would like to prevent any major issues if I can.
[quoted image]

The definitive thread on this subject, as far as I'm concerned:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

#7161 3 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

I don’t mind the Spaghetti Incident either but why the decal without songs represented in the game. Did they play songs from it on the NITL tour?

It DOES seem weird that Hogbog and pinball_keefer would conspire in such a way to mess with our heads featuring an album that isn't even represented in game. Maybe another track or tracks coming?

#7192 3 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

Why are you guys updating to a known major-bug (resets) code version? Probably best to wait this one out a bit until they, you know, actually test a new code revision. How many revs in a row is this that have a crash bug?

Some people are up for the new hotness, regardless of the cost. It wouldn't be part of the word if there wasn't a chance of "fun" in dysfunction.

#7216 3 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Of the 5,000 LE’s being made, does anyone know what number they are on?

They're averaging just under 50 a week, and the CEs are still under 300 shipped, so probably safe to say the sum total made of SE, LE, CEs so far is less than 500.

#7220 3 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Seems like that number should be closer to 900.

They weren't at 50/week from the start. CEs are less than 300, for sure, based on serials from recent deliveries. I doubt they've even matched that with LEs so far, but once LEs are back on the line and people post their boxes with the serial as they get them we'll know for sure.

#7222 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

How can you tell from the serial number? Is it the last 3 digits?

Yes. The collector's plate numbers are decorative only, they don't mean anything, production-wise. The serial number is the key item for production numbers.

#7225 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Which numbers of the serial are the ones we can tell by? I have a SE and last 3 digits are 284 and was made end of February.

So with the last CE posted of 280 5 days ago, that plus yours is 564, and that's without LEs. So maybe they are at around 900 total.

#7229 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

So to illustrate the point that nobody outside the factory knows, your 'safe to say' has pretty much doubled in an hour.

Well, the ~50/week was roughly right and the rampup wasn't that long, apparently. I just didn't believe the math that said that would mean ~900.

I didn't realize they were shipping that many SEs. I was just watching the CEs mostly. But now that I know, I'll pay more attention to the LE and SE box posts. We can know pretty closely by adding all three as long as people post their boxes on arrival so the serials can be tracked.

#7275 3 years ago
Quoted from TaTa:

My CE was delivered last Friday. Serial #320

Awesome. Thanks for posting!

#7350 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Still unable to update from 1.17 to 1.19 via USB. I have 3 USB sticks that are 8-16GB in size and tried them all. One is also the same USB stick I used to update Wonka. I tried two larger 64 and 128GB sticks and those boot to a screen asking about a boot device and to plug in a keyboard.
One the 8GB and 16GB sticks, I see the JJP logo appear on both screens for a few seconds, then it reboots, shows the logo, rinse and repeat.

You probably need to change the boot priority in the BIOS. Someone else had that problem. Changing the boot priority solved it.

#7351 3 years ago
Quoted from c818919taylor:

Last I checked Cliffy was waiting on someone to take measurements to build a set.

A set's up on his site:
http://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm

#7368 3 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I took slow start up into consideration

It doesn't matter because the ~50/wk math was essentially right. My problem was not believing the math.

#7381 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

so is there a specific memory stick manufacturer that I should use? I just tried with two others with no luck

Delta or Full ISO update? Mac or PC?

#7392 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Mac....I mean Sandisk or some other brand as apparently it matters...2.0, 3.0, 8Gb, 16 Gb, 32 Gb.....

You're doing a full ISO then? What are you using to build the bootable USB?

#7394 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Yes....unetbootin

Did you log into the BIOS and make sure the USB was before the hard drive in the boot priority table? That's the first thing I'd check. Someone else found it wasn't. Changing that fixed the process for them.

If boot priority checks out, someone said they had success not using a different bootable ISO creator, but it's not available on Mac. Maybe try a free one here (I don't have any recommendations about which one, sorry):

https://www.uubyte.com/burn-iso-to-usb-on-mac.html

#7397 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Thanks for information....what type/size memory stick have u had success with?

I've used all sizes, but I have a trusty 8GB I use for updating all JJP pins but no GnR here yet.

Does the USB boot at all? If it isn't recognized, I'd definitely check boot priority first.

#7414 3 years ago
Quoted from AvidPinPlayer:

Updated to V1.19 via WiFi. No problems at all.
A word of caution. Before installing the update, I saved my settings to a USB stick, but failed to cap back the USB connection in the pin and consequently the pin would not connect to my WiFi. Once I realized the problem, I capped back the USB connector in the pin and that solved the problem. I installed the update in about 2 minutes, literally.

You mean you put the wifi dongle back in?

#7415 3 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Discussion is ok but your input is pretty much always negative.

#7425 3 years ago
Quoted from untamedinc:

New to pinball purchasing. Curious what the normal timeframe for purchasing a new machine such as GNR from JJP would be from the factory/dealer? Is it usually within the first year of availability only? Or do they do additional builds? Thanks.

Normally you can receive a newly-released pin within months, but GnR is in heavy demand so if you order an LE now, you're looking at probably 8 months or more before delivery. SE *may* be less, some distributors have had them in stock recently. CEs are sold out.

#7457 3 years ago
Quoted from BigT:

This is just a guess, but I don’t know if you will find one in stock at a distributor. The clock is ticking on JJP’s next pin. I think the backlog of GNR with deposits is extensive and probably will keep the line busy until the next release. I don’t think they have multiple lines setup for assembly.
If you want one get one, contact a distributor that still has spots that are available. EHOH is also experiencing the same issues. Stern is doing another run but many customers are having trouble finding available spots.

They have a big line and a mini line (or at least they did at the other factory), but who knows if they're using both for GnR only now?

#7472 3 years ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

Well it’s seems my axl lane magnet has failed like many others! When I first got my game it seemed to grab quite a bit and have a very strong grab. Now for the last week or so it very seldom grabs, and it’s very weak. When into coil test and couldn’t get it to work. My question is has anyone asked jjp if there is a permanent solution for this problem? Is just a bad batch of thermal fuses? Bad design? Has anyone looked into just changing the thermal fuse and what is the rating on it? I have been running 1:14. Just updated to 1:19 yesterday.

Has it been established if it's a thermal fuse or a thermal switch? Someone was saying it was a thermal switch (which makes more sense, anyway because overheating wouldn't kill it permanently).

#7476 3 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

Not a switch. It permanently fails open.

If a thermal switch fails, it will do the same thing, fail open or closed permanently instead of opening when a heat threshold is reached and closing when it cools below the pre-defined threshold.

EDIT: Looked it up. Based on the product markings from a picture you posted a few pages back, it appears it is actually a thermal switch and not a fuse, which makes why they have it wrapped to the coil make a lot more sense:

One of this family of switches:
https://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/portage-electric-products-inc-pepi/model-st01-series/15215-604014.html

#7480 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

ok, is there any secrets to update. Ive tried multiple times with different thumbdrives and both the EU and US file. Its just not updating which is frustrating as hell. I might sell the effing pin at this point. I am on 1.16. If someone has a secret please let me know

Where are you having problems with a full install? Won't recognize the USB?

#7485 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

It wont do wifi so I am trying full install. Either it says update failed or it will go super fast and then sit there for hours never updating. I let it stay on for 4 hours today before giving up

Right. Wifi will not work for 1.15-1.17

If the game goes into attract mode while updating it will never finish, so I think you have to leave the coin door open. Did you try that?

#7490 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

I have updated 3 jjps in my life. If i insert the USB then power on it doesnt ever start up. If i do it already on and go to update via usb it will get through the recognition then when i hit start twice it goes super fast to the end and then sits there. THis morning I let it sit for 4 hours

Wait, I just realized that you said if you put the BOOTABLE USB (made with ubootnetin) in and power on, it never starts the update. It may be that your boot priority on the motherboard is set wrong and it's trying the hard disk instead of the USB first, which means it just boots to the game and never even checks the USB at all. Check the boot priority on the motherboard and make SURE USB is ahead of hard drive on the list.

You can't do a Delta update, so full install is your only option with the version you have now.

#7492 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

how do i check that? In settings?

Turn the machine off, plug in a USB keyboard into the computer motherboard (or the USB dongle at the front you've been trying to update from) and keep tapping F2 while it powers up to get into the BIOS.

#7501 3 years ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

maybe I misread that somewhere it was a thermal fuse instead of a thermal switch? I have not dug into it anymore other than testing it in coil test and trying to see what others were saying on the thread. I plan on getting ahold of JJP tomorrow. Thanks.

I think it was just assumed it was a fuse of some kind because people weren't familiar with thermal switches. There's always some inaccurate information in the fog of a new release, but it all gets sorted eventually...

#7503 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaketime81:

Gnr CE 374 here, ive got about 40 plays on it, then moved it home and now have 8 switch errors all on return 1 J200-1 looking for a loose cable or plug but cant find anything yet, JjP tech is closed today any thing else I can check? All fuses and connectors look to be good. Each switch is good and cat 9 cable on J200-1 to main board with other cat9 cables all looks solid, what else to check next?
Also, bottom left sensor in guitar neck will not detect ball in game or diag mode, it calibrates and says its good but no go, game is unplayable.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure the center spinner works (it says it's okay), then if it does, check around the Center spinner switch. It's the only one not affected by the row being out. That seems suspect.

#7517 3 years ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Greetings Gn'R Fans,
Our family is moving out to Colorado this summer and will likely be able to purchase this as our first JJP game around the same time. Just a couple questions:
- What are the delivery lead times on the LE at this point?
- What are the LxWxH dimensions of the game?
Thanks in advance!

LE delivery is ESTIMATED somewhere around late fall/end of the year if you reserve now. Most dists (all?) are taking $1000 non-refundable deposits. CE is sold out. Some dists have had SEs for open sale recently.

The delivery box the pin comes in is 57” x 29 3/4”.

#7521 3 years ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Thanks for the feedback. Can someone let me know how wide the back box is? Haven’t owned a JJP before so curios how it compares on width to the Stern Jurassic Park I currently have. Thanks!

Should be 29", give or take a smidge. An owner with one on hand can verify, though.

#7526 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

28" and 13/16ths of an inch ( 29" is good enough )
LTG : )

In some gamerooms, that 3/16" can be very important. Thanks for chiming in with the exact measurement.

#7528 3 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

May be leaving the club. I think mine is the 1st listed used in Australia, has a premium on it because i'm happy to keep it.
Such a beautiful machine but just to hard for me to the stage that it's not fun.
Hopefully i'll get one again one day (or get to keep mine).
https://www.facebook.com/groups/gunsnrosespinball/permalink/350991079664497/

I don't do Facebook. What are you asking for it? Is it an LE or a CE?

#7549 3 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Make your deposit immediately. Receive your game in a year or so.
I'd say you can probably pick up an AIQ right now and geek out on it for months and pick up a used GNR later.
OR do the AIQ now, place your deposit on GNR, and in 9 months when it's ready for final payment, sell AIQ.

THIS.

Deposit on the jjGnR. Use some of the other money to buy the AIQ. Enjoy the AIQ while you wait the 8 months or so for your jjGnR, then sell the AIQ at the end and take delivery of the jjGnR. Why wait with nothing?

Also, if Stern really is imminently announcing their next pin, maybe wait for that before choosing what pin to spend your jjGnR wait with.

#7553 3 years ago
Quoted from angus:

Just got my CE yesterday. Today I connected to wifi and tried to update. The download was very fast. Hit enter to do the update. Now it has been stuck like this for 30 minutes. What to do?
[quoted image]

You cannot update 1.15 to 1.17 over wifi. Wifi is borked in those versions. Turn the machine off. Download the full install from the jersey jack website and install to 1.19 using USB.

1.19 ISO:
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/gnr/GunsNRoses-v01.19.iso

Full install instructions:
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/general/install-full

#7555 3 years ago
Quoted from angus:

Thanks PinMonk
Really a shame the software isn’t smarter than that.

I'm assuming when the feature is more mature it will be smarter, but this wifi service in pinball is very new. They don't even have iris tracking or covert room recording in yet.

#7649 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Anyone have cab separation issues? right side is how it should look, left side you can see it sticking out further than the rail. The plywood is separating. Oh yeah, i have cab art bubbling too
I’ll be curious how they cover this as this is crazy and it’s the latest run
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that the plywood is separating based on the guides not being lined up exactly. It looks like barely 1/16", which could be a bend in the guide, or even a guide manufacturing tolerance difference.

#7651 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

I can literally push it together and if the remove the rails screw it slides out further. If the rail screw and hinge wasn’t holding it together with would separate completely.
I’ll take a pic with the tap measure. If I knew how to share videos on here I would show you

You have to upload videos to youtube then post a link here and pinside embeds the video. There's no direct uploading to pinside of mp4s, even for paid pinsiders.

If you can literally move the wood in with squeezing finger pressure, that sounds more like a JJP support ticket, which isn't very rock'n'roll, but alas...

#7653 3 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Yeah, I did submit I was just curious if it’s a problem others have had and how was it handled by jjp. They are reviewing it now
Try this link. Maybe google photos works
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UN2Cg9CBWR12xfX49

Wow, that's pretty severe. I can't imagine that wouldn't be a warranty fix.

#7719 3 years ago
Quoted from wilsonza:

I've attempted both a USB delta and full update on two different USB drives.
The delta update just immediately states 'update failed.' I've followed the instructions and attempted two different USB drives, same behavior.
The USB NIC appears to be working when it's plugged into the cable (I can scan for networks, join one, and obtain an IP address), so I assume the cable is good / USB port is working.
After deploying the ISO using unetbootin I power cycle the game but it boots normally, no software update. Same behavior for both drives, though one is 32GB and I read that can be problematic.
Trying a third (smaller) USB drive (128mb) for a delta update now. Any tips?

EDIT: I see you already got yours going. Disregard below.

Attach a USB keyboard, log into the computer BIOS and check the boot order to make sure USB is ahead of hard drive. Someone else had this issue and that solved it - it never saw the USB because hard drive was ahead of it on the boot order.

#7740 2 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

TWIPY game of the year acceptance speeches:

A> Starting the video with "Yeah, hey, I'm Slash" was unexpectedly charming. Is there anyone with interest in this video unaware of what Slash look like?
B> Didn't know Slash called JJP and not the other way around to get the jjGnR project started.
C> Hearing Slash say "and so on and so forth" was worth the watch alone.

-1
#7778 2 years ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

Zero dollars for additional songs. Please do not open this Pandora’s box! If you do, you will be paying for all sorts of things that one would expect to receive when you first bought the game. Look what has happened to video games as an example.

Too late. It's already happened with topper-specific game modes. Want that goat multiball? That will be $1000 more, please.

And with the internet-enabled system coming from Stern, I guarantee paid pinball DLC is already planned for network-enabled machines.

#7866 2 years ago

Karl DeAngelo's streaming GnR now with temp gauges and the redesigned GnR flipper cooling brackets to make sure that the temps are still good with the change. After 1 hour peak temp cooled is only 116.4F, so seems to be good. He should be going for another hour:

https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball

karl-2021-04-03 (resized).jpgkarl-2021-04-03 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#8205 2 years ago

The revised Tibetan Breeze brackets are done, fitted and temperature tested. I'll start slowly rolling them out to the jjGnR Tibetan Breeze kit domestic backorders this coming week. Once domestic are out, I'll do international, then open it up for new orders. Unfortunately with this side-mount Spike-style bracket, I have to make sure the brackets fit and customize the fit for each JJP if required, so this is ONLY for jjGnR at first.

#8233 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

My scoop has stopped recognizing the ball, can someone tell me if it's one of the fancy opto switches or a regular switch that a mug could adjust?

Looks like a regular switch if you're talking about the center scoop VUK (switch 58 - column 8, row 2).

#8302 2 years ago
Quoted from RockfordReplay:

I SUGGEST EVERYONE UN-PLUG THE SERVOS TO THE SPOTLIGHTS FOR A FUTURE CODE UPDATE!!!!
It's a ball-search issue. I know Code v1.19 will SEVERELY over-drive light movements during ball search. This crashes the lights into their neighboring objects. If your lights aren't broken yet, they will be. I cannot find a setting to disable them; the best solution I see is to power off the machine and pull apart the servo connectors. I discovered this a moment ago and cannot say if ball-search does this in other code versions.[quoted image]

I keyposted this as a tech warning, but probably something pinball_keefer wants to look at and fix ASAP. Might explain all the broken lights after just a few days...

#8354 2 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

LOL GNR has "The best lightshow on the planet" and when does it ever look like the view on the left.
[quoted image]

These manipulated "before" pictures are shameful. If you have a good product, let it speak for itself. Don't manipulate the stock state to look worse just so your "after" pic looks better.

#8356 2 years ago
Quoted from RockfordReplay:

Need to say; Barry noted the issue I'm experiencing with the spotlights during ball-search is not code related. We're preparing to replace both spotlight assemblies. I'm curious what ball-search looks like on other machines.

Thanks for following up. Maybe you just have mis-programmed servos.

#8437 2 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Beta build 6 seems to be addressing coil heat!
[quoted image]

Great news, especially on that diverter that could hit temps up to around 230F after a couple hours play, which is crazy.

#8438 2 years ago
Quoted from tmfeuerh:

I am not able to update beyond 1.17. Curious on the fix. I apologize if this was already mentioned in the history. My time zone and date are correct. It downloads, but does not install.
Thoughts?
Todd

Click on the "topic index" at the top of any page in this thread, sort by "keypost summary" and look for the "TECH:" section. There's a linked post for 1.15-1.17 code.

#8443 2 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

It would be interesting to measure the dB’s of the potential buzzing against the dB’s from the Tehitian Breeze fans and compare the fade.

The (desperately needed and welcome) software changes won't eliminate the flipper coil fade. It will just delay it, which might be good enough for another 20% or so of the users that won't have to deal with it since they play shorter games.. Stern Spike has excellent hold management and it still has fade. You cannot escape the heat problem it if you play a pin long enough.

#8445 2 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

Mine currently exhibit fade symptoms well within 20 minutes. This is likely due to the multitude of multiballs I typically hit PRIOR to ever starting the song, and even then I tend not to start a song until I have at minimum 3 locked, creating another multiball scenario during the song. All these multiballs seem to contribute to faster fade and hence my desire to minimize as much as practically possible.
Bottomline, I’ll take all the help I can get wrt fade!

That is about normal from the jjGnR temp probe testing. Right flipper reaches the fade zone at 15 minutes, left about 5 minutes later, and upper right about 5 minutes after that. So uncooled, before this software change, all the flippers were affected by fade by about the 25 minute mark.

#8447 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

So either it's not enough fade to matter or people aren't playing their gnr pins for extended periods? why isn't this being talked about as a number one issue unless the fade just isn't enough to affect game play? It's there a gnr flipper fade post that's on fire that I'm missing out on?
Just because it's noticeable maybe doesn't equate to enough to significantly impair game play? I'm really curious if it's just a known pin "thing" but not really a showstopper or much of an issue?
However, obviously there's enough chatter about it that it became a setting in the beta code, so there is that... Is there a hard stop playing this pin all out for a certain period of time like say 45 to 60 minutes where this fade becomes such an issue and you literally have to stop playing and let the coils cool down because you just can't make shots due to the fade?
I'd really like to know from the people that have their gnr pins, both the ones who just got them and are probably and hopefully wearing them out having a blast and those that have had them for months.. you all are in the position to comment on real world experiences with this. Thoughts?

I had a bunch of people testing JJP machines with temperature probes for near real-time temps, so I have temp data for all of them from multiple sources (to account for play style differences). All of them have fade to some degree.

Karl DeAngelo streamed all of his testing on jjGnR and jjPotC uncooled and then cooled. I tried to find one of his early uncooled videos so you could see the crazy temps it hit, but all I could find was one with cooled coils:

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/974090510?filter=archives&sort=time

Uncooled GnR the left flipper peaked at 180.8F (at 90 minutes), the Right flipper peaked at 219.8F at 125 min and the upper right peaked at 181 at 80 minutes. Generally speaking, Spooky and JJP run much hotter than Spike, mostly due (IMO) to MUCH better hold handling on Spike which doesn't increase the temps almost at all when the flipper is holding. JJP and Spooky keep going up while in hold, which makes much higher temps much quicker for trap players.

There are spike temps on a chart on the spike product page here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/04203-tibetan-breeze-spike-2-flipper-coil-cooling-kit

You can see that, across the board, Spike temps are lower than JJP/Spooky, but the do still have fade on a number of machines.

#8480 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Ah.. I get it. Thanks. How fast do coils cool down to fresh temp generally after reaching that max temp/fade point if you stop playing to rest them? Minutes? Half hour?

Lots of variables there with coil size, how hot it was etc, but generally if you give it 10-15 minutes it will be below the fade threshold again, but it won't be like a completely fresh game.

#8481 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

I wonder if there's any truth in our different voltage makes a difference ?

It's an interesting idea, but once the voltage is converted for the machine to use, there shouldn't be any difference what the input voltage from the wall was. Still, I have no firsthand knowledge of whether it does or doesn't only that I don't see why it would.

#8485 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Line voltage shouldn't matter, but the cycle (50hz vs 60hz) might.

An interesting avenue to explore, for sure. This whole coil fade project has been very enlightening. Quite a number of unexpected outcomes. The Spike hold magic is the most surprising so far, though.

Neil? Paging NeilMcRae . Shall I send you some temp measuring equipment with your jjGnR fan kit so you can get some baseline 50hz machine temps before you put them on?

#8486 2 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

Rather nice to see all that beautifull Dayne Henry Jr. art fully in the backglass. A little solder, a piece of 4000K ledstrip and an old piece of cable of a deceased pc powersupply and voila. Plug it into the spare 12V Molex connector behind the monitor and voila. Thats some nice backlit backglas around the monitor. just gotto finetune (darken it abit) around the camera area.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Have you adjusted the monitor yet? It looks very washed out.

#8488 2 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

i have not yet. lots of settings are grayed out and to be honest i have been to busy playing it since it arrived 2 months ago. Next job will be installing your cooling fans when you ship your orders. Looking forward to those. But take your time testing. I rather have the patience than have them fail.

Use the direct monitor adjustment menu on the remote mini-board in the backbox, not the settings in the software. You should be able to get it looking more reasonable.

#8490 2 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

i take it you mean the controls on the back of the monitor since i could not find any mini board in the backboard with controls on it.

I don't know how the controls are mounted on jjGNR. Usually there's a mini remote circuit board with buttons for the monitor, but maybe it's mounted behind the monitor on jjGnR.

#8493 2 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Holy crap playing with this new beta code is like a new machine. Flippers way more powerful through long play sessions. Very happy.
Huge improvement thanks pinball_keefer !

This is great news. From the beginning, it struck me as weird that JJP with dual wound coils couldn't manage heat as well as Spike that just had single wound. In theory, dual wound should be BETTER. Glad pinball_keefer is on the case.

#8504 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

What pooling playfields? WTF did that come from?

A bunch of the tiny city inserts on the playfield raising is all I've seen pictures of. No pooling I can think of.

#8507 2 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

You misunderstood. I’d like to minimize THE FADE as much as possible.

Have you installed the beta code? It sounds like it helps a lot.

#8509 2 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

Nah, I stayed away from the beta just in case they “accidentally” threw in a brick that prevented wifi updates. Again.

If it's a choice between extreme fade or the beta with much less fade, I'd take the beta. You can always do a USB install if things go sideways, but I don't expect a repeat of the wifi debacle.

#8511 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Wiz:

You guys are too funny. Ignoring it will not make it go away.. but hopefully they changed what they were doing to prevent the pooling/chipping on what's coming in now. BTW, pooling and chipping usually happens after about 30 days and a bunch of games, something within that formula.
Just play your machine and don't worry about it, it's not a Ferrari... [quoted image][quoted image]

If you have a playfield doing this, REPAIR the pooled part or it WILL chip off. Yelobird has a great tutorial here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

#8514 2 years ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

How long before beta becomes official? I can keep busy with the other pins while waiting. And speaking of waiting, are you expecting your fans to ship soon or still weeks out?

I have no idea how long the code will be in beta, but I'd just do it. You can always jump back with a USB install if you need to.

The domestic backorders of the jjGnR Tibetan Breeze kits have started shipping. I hope to be caught up by the end of next week and I can open general orders again.

#8522 2 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Fortunately those are from an early run.Fortunately Sterns didn’t have this issue?

Stern has absolutely had this problem (and warped playfields, both concave and convex recently) to varying degrees on Jurassic Park and newer.

#8560 2 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I found this in the bottom of my cabinet, any idea where it goes?
[quoted image]

Part#8 on this exploded diagram from the manual.

GnR_record_nut.jpgGnR_record_nut.jpg
#8607 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Yep, the JJP protector really had me puzzled when I saw it. knew that was the first thing I would need to change

A small ego-centric faction within JJP keeps thinking they somehow can out-Cliffy Cliff. Pat's Dialed-In attempt at it was EMBARRASSING before they finally gave up and just did a real cliffy. No idea why they keep trying to re-invent the wheel. Dumbest re-run ever.

#8608 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Question. I am on code 1.21.
I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.
Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

Sounds like the KISS scoop-type switch issue. It was FAMOUS for this when the switch got sloppy. The switch is momentarily registering instead of staying on when the ball goes in. That causes a kickout instead of a song start.

#8613 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Any fix for this?

If it's like KISS, you just have to bend the switch arm up a bit so it doesn't bounce when the ball comes in and stays engaged.

#8617 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Is there another source for the Symbol decals other then Pingraffix?
I was going to purchase a set then found out they charge the flat $8.75 shipping on these.
Maybe it is just me, but it bothers me knowing they can be sent for a postage stamp.
I looked for other things to put in the cart with them but could not find any other items I wanted.

If you want to DIY it, you can get some inkjet vinyl cling paper and just print them yourself. If you have a cricut or a cameo4 you can make a perfect circle cut, but even without it, you should be able to get reasonable results.

But even with shipping, ~$16 shipped for two isn't TERRIBLE. You'll probably waste more than $16 of time tracking down the materials to make your own.

#8621 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Well I did a switch test and the switch appears to work as it should. Stays engaged. Not sure what is wrong.

Did you test it with a ball or your finger? Has to be the ball. The disengage/re-engage will be very fast. Also, is the switch body firmly screwed in? If not, it can shift a little when the ball comes in and cause an issue.

Another thing to check is if you have another switch registering nearby from vibration that's cancelling the scoop. Set switch test mode and smack the playfield firmly with the palm of your hand a few times all over the playfield and see if any switches trigger. If they do, adjust that switch to be less sensitive.

#8650 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I appreciate the help. I will test this theory. I have since tried to bend the scoop switch a bit. When I turned the game back on a switch report came back and said that my upper playfield switch at the rubber ring (#38 I think) was closed. I adjusted it. Since then I have not had the scoop eject issue. Fingers are crossed. Maybe PinMonk was right about a switch being too sensitive causing just issue. We’ll see tomorrow.
Thanks so much for looking into this
Matt

jjPotC had this issue where if a GOLD target switch was too tight on the lower playfield and triggered from vibration when the ball was up on the Black Pearl, the gate wouldn't open to get to the cannon because it thought the ball was down below. It's a pretty common thing to happen (especially as pins get more complicated), but when there's a problem with, say, your scoop, you don't think, "hey, maybe this other unrelated switch over there is causing the problem."

#8656 2 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

This isn’t the issue. Pinmonk is just speculating.
The next switch hit can’t be the same. Which means if you have a ball in the scoop when the scoop lites you need to hit another switch before the scoop can register again.

Unless I misunderstood, I'm pretty sure he was talking about hitting a lit empty scoop and getting a reject and kickout almost immediately.

#8697 2 years ago
Quoted from jints56:

I can get this to happen every time (1.19 and 1.21). At tank hitting action button and the left/right flipper buttons before song starts. Reset

Sound like a reproducible bug for @pinball_keefer.

#8698 2 years ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Where are you guys getting Mylar sheets to just have on hand? Any particular product? Something from Amazon?

Pinball Life sells sheets by the foot:

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=mylar_24inch

#8728 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

This is awesome. Can we get this post keyed?

Done. I put it under the playfield section of the tech posts. If you sort by keypost summary it puts them all together for easy browsing.

#8730 2 years ago
Quoted from highdef:

Coming soon from PinMonk
[quoted image]

Um, that's a freaking 33dBA fan. Pinmonk would never sell something that obnoxiously loud.

Unfortunately, I also do not understand the joke. Replacement for broken spotlight servos? I don't get it.

#8732 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Dude, I completely appreciate this! Still waiting on delivery, but if you can just keep starting the owners thread for anything I may buy, and organize the posts, I would appreciate it haha!

Waiting on delivery of what? It was a repair keypost.

I suddenly feel like I've been daydrinking. Two posts in a row I don't get.

#8735 2 years ago
Quoted from highdef:

Forget it. You took it way too literal. I did install one of your fans on TNA, so thank you.

I didn't get the joke at all and I really wanted to. But I DO understand the concept of a joke no longer being funny once you have to explain it. Been there. Done that.

#8755 2 years ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

None. No loose black wire on any of them. Do you have any other thoughts or possibilities? I really appreciate your help!

While switch test mode is on the screen, if you manually close any of the flipper EOS switches with your finger, does it trigger on screen?

#8762 2 years ago
Quoted from lpgnr:

It does not.

I don't know what visibility is like, but see if there's a loose black wire at the upper playfield flipper EOS switch. That upper flipper EOS registers okay, but it's the only one. Maybe the break is after that point and is preventing the other 3 from working.

#8776 2 years ago

Definitely looks like a wire broke off where the green arrow is pointing.
EOS problem (resized).jpgEOS problem (resized).jpg

#8781 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Absolutely.
What I circled looked like a solder blob.
LTG : )

With the benefit of closeup, color correction, and shadow reduction, I think it's just a spiral in the wire you circled. I thought it was solder initially, too.

Quoted from lpgnr:

Yes! That wire is definitely not attached.

This is in the upper playfield flipper, right? That's why it was the first and last working EOS in the chain.

#8804 2 years ago
Quoted from jefryan:

Well, I received LE #745 just over a week ago and have been busy playing non-stop!
Only issues thus far:
- A screw fell out of the upper playfield (top-most, left side) clear plastic mounted to two posts (took me over an hour before I finally found this bastard!)
- Last night I noticed my upper playfield and upper right flippers seem to only be working 70% of the time. Need to figure this out now. I've checked the wires that connect and they all seem securely soldered where they should be. All backbone connections are secure as well. Of course I checked just the ones that are plugged in... does someone have a picture of what the J601-1 connections look like in the backbox?

Check your flipper switches opposite the buttons on each side inside the cabinet. The flipper switch is a stack where when you press the flipper button, it pushes the first switch together to enable the bottom flipper, then as you press through, you enable contact with the second leaf switch to enable the second flipper on each side. It's likely that that second leaf just needs to be bent in toward the flipper button a little so it makes reliable contact every time.

To see what's happening, with the playfield up, press the flipper button slowly as you watch the switch action. The last contact point is probably barely or not being made, which is your problem.

#8819 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I thought I read that there was a way to adjust the monitor settings such as brightness and resolution. Anyone know where to find these settings?

Little buttons on the actual monitor panel. You have to open the backbox.

#8822 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I know monitor/ tv displays vary... Anyone have tweaked settings to get a little better blacks/contrast.. default was 100 brightness and 50 contrast..I changed it to 40 brightness 100 contrast, it's slightly better but wondering if anyone has something better dialed in?
Any possibility of seeing future system settings to adjust the signal?

Try 25-50 Brightness and 75-90 contrast and turn the gamma on (if you have that option) and see how that looks. You want the brightness down as much as possible or you get gray blacks.

I don't have a GnR here to try that firsthand yet, but that should help. Let me know what it looks like with those settings.

#8824 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Someone here tried 0 brightness and 100 contrast and got good results. I haven’t tweaked mine yet

That may work, but I would think 0 brightness would muddy the shadows too much.

#8829 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Thanks guys...Okay, I did some tinkering.

I keyposted this so people can find it. It would benefit from a picture showing people where to find the adjustment buttons on the monitor. Otherwise, great work.

#8831 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Great point, I edited the post to include pics and instructions.
Thank you for the help

Thanks for posting the detailed pics and instructions. If you want to move the pics to the instructions, you can cut and paste the tags at the bottom of the post in [square brackets] when you edit and put them with the text they refer to, then the pictures and instructions will be inline as you view the post instead of segregated. It's extra work, but I wasn't sure if you knew how to do it, so there.

#8849 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

sure but I feel the fade on long games.

The testing worksheet is done with 5 minute notations of the real-time temps, so I could compare your fade chart to a US one to see if your fade onset happens later than a 60hz US machine. It would be interesting if true. I don't think it IS because once the power is converted to DC for the machine it shouldn't matter. But my personal belief doesn't sate my curiosity about the thought that it MIGHT have some unexplored effect.

#8911 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Trust me I don't want to make the pin ghetto either

Don't feel bad. Stern literally just drilled a screw straight into the playfield at one of the pop bumpers on TWD to stop a similar problem. You can't get much more ghetto than that...

twd_screw.jpgtwd_screw.jpg
#8992 2 years ago
Quoted from Jdlana:

Hi. Hope this is an easy one. I have GNR LE.
Game won’t boot. No fan, no lights, no relay sound, no boot up.
The outlet inside machine works so I know power is getting to game. Fuse LEDs all lit red so fuses seem ok. I even tried to reset motherboard by shorting pins 16 and 17 on motherboard 24 pin connector.
Still nothing.
Any ideas greatly appreciated.

Which motherboard do you have? you just need to manually power on the computer motherboard or short the cmos clear, but the location is different per motherboard. Take a picture of the computer motherboard if you don't know.

Here's the layout for the ASROCK H310C motherboard, and where the short points are for power and for CMOS clear (but it's different for other brands/models motherboard):
ASROCK_H310CM-DVS-Power_Button.jpgASROCK_H310CM-DVS-Power_Button.jpg
Here's the MSI H81M-P33:
MSI H81M-P33.jpgMSI H81M-P33.jpg

#8994 2 years ago

He said he already tried shorting pins 16 and 17.

#9023 2 years ago
Quoted from Jdlana:

PinMonk
Here is the picture of the motherboard. I believe it is the asrock H310
i will try the reset. thanks for the response!!
[quoted image]

If you already tried the shorting pins 16/17 on the power adapter, the power jumper short might not work. If it doesn't, you need to do the CMOS clear when powered off (which is just two points on the board, no pins) then try the power jumper again with the machine already turned on.

#9032 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Wow, I'm sorry to see that happening. JJP should send you a fully populated playfield in my opinion, there's no excuse for that to happen.
If you don't mind me asking what is your games build date?

Another Mirco "quality" playfield. Bummer.

#9035 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Yeah. It's disappointing to say the least. JJP should have an SLA agreement with Mirco that basically fines them for quality issues like this within the first year.

JJP needs to be working with playfield clearcoat gurus as consultants to set up an in-house or affiliated line for their own playfields. They are WAY overdue for solving this problem, and all Mirco has is one excuse after another, year after year.

Set up a parallel line and work on getting the process right and then seed some in-house playfields into production along with the Mircos to test reliability. It will take a while, probably 2 years at least, but if they start now this playfield headache can be over for them sooner. They could also seed some of their in-house playfields into location machines at heavy traffic locations like Ayce Gogi and Sunshine Laundromat, etc and put some hard miles on the playfields in a short period of time to see how they hold up.

#9064 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Yep , my Hobbit Playfield was perfect after thousands of balls .
What I don't get is why would you let a third party make your product look so bad .

Yeah, it's weird how Mirco had it right for a bit and now is consistently a mess. I'm wondering if JJP was originally using the ceramic finish on those early mircos but it was too expensive. Problems started with Dialed In, right off the bat.

#9065 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

What's sad is the clear coat used in old Bally Williams diamond plate playfields is still available.

Wasn't diamondplate finish more like an epoxy of some kind? I didn't think it was regular clearcoat.

#9068 2 years ago
Quoted from greeneye:

I checked the playfield on my SE and I have some significant dimpling in one area. Where do I go from here? Ignore it? Is this a common issue with playfields from say, the 90's? Does it get much worse leading to cracking etc.?
I'm somewhat concerned considering I just got it and have about a dozen plays on it! Again, where do I go from here?
[quoted image]

I would call those normal. Nothing like the moon craters you see on some Spike playfields.

#9083 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Where in my post did I say to F with that.

LTG unchained.

banner_transform.gifbanner_transform.gif
#9094 2 years ago

Status update on the jjGnR Tibetan Breeze coil cooling kits:

After being paused for a month and a half to resolve failures that came in from the beta testers right as I opened general orders, domestic backorders with the new bracket design have been going out since last week and should be done in the next day or so, then international will be filled. I still expect to have all the backorders caught up by the end of this week. The new design is a side mount like the Stern kit that's been rock solid for almost a year now.

I'll open up for new orders again for the kit on pinmonk.com this Friday, but if I get too many, I'll still may pause them so I don't get too overloaded at once.

#9103 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Who makes a translite light kit to light the dark edges? Non color changing preffered.

Walmart. $6. You want the USB TV wall backlighting kit. If yours doesn't have the cheap kit, you can get a 3 pack of 6.5' color changing (or white) remote controlled usb powered strips for $30:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monster-Illuminessence-3-LED-Strip-Kit-with-Premium-RF-Touch-Remote/751528543

#9108 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Isn’t a wire tap needed or connector?

You can splice them in, or if you get the USB ones, they just plug into a USB port and turn on with the machine.

#9110 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Paul said that he was advising that as far back as Dialed In, and it worked. He sent me a link on my phone but i haven't looked at it yet.

The vinyl repair iron process yelobird recommends is much more targeted and also gives great results:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

I know I will be taking all the accessible posts off and hardening the areas manually with that iron to save headaches later. Should I have to? No. But thems the breaks. It's an ongoing problem so defensive measures are necessary.

#9162 2 years ago
Quoted from Jdlana:

I checked inside the cabinet on left side by coin door. It shows a suspicious loose yellow wire. Any idea where this wire belongs?? Could this be why my machine won't power/boot????[quoted image]

I don't think that has anything to do with your machine not booting.

So CMOS clear and then PWR jumper did not get you back in business?

If not, I'd talk to Barry at JJP and see if maybe you have a defective/flaky ATX power supply.

#9178 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

This is bullshit. Unplug your game. And your internet connection.

ZaphX unchained.

banner_transform.gifbanner_transform.gif
#9211 2 years ago
Quoted from Jdlana:

I did the CMOS clear with power off and tried reset with power on. Still dead. I will try JJP. thanks!

And just to double check, all the red lights on the large circuit board below the computer motherboard box are on, right?

#9249 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Karl good. [quoted image]

I really like watching him play. One of the best streamers doing it. Got the skills and the patter down.

#9259 2 years ago

My promised reminder for those that have been patiently waiting:

The jjGnR Tibetan Breeze flipper coil cooling kits will be back in the Pinmonk.com store tomorrow (Friday) at noon PST. If I get too many, I may pause them again, but they should be up for the afternoon, at the very least.

Note that these are ONLY for JJP GnR, not for other JJP games. With the redesigned bracket being moved to the side mount like the Spike machines, I have to customize them a bit for each JJP machine. So, for right now, jjGnR only.

#9261 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I have a temporary large washer in place and next week I am going to fix it with an iron and some PETG / fiber washers. I am 100% certain I can fix and cover this back to new plus it's in an inconspicuous area.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah, the yelobird vinyl iron method is something you definitely want to do to get that ridge down, or it will eventually chip.

#9285 2 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

G'day everyone. I've taken delivery of our first batch of LE's and I have one machine DOA. I suspect a dead CPU that requires jump start (IO board has power when turned on, but no fans are spinning). It has the ATX power supply. I have watched the YouTube video for jump starting a JJP CPU and I'm willing to try this on the game.
However, the input wires on the 24 pin connector to the CPU are ALL black, and the manual does not contain pinout information for this CPU yet. I have emailed JJP tech support but thought I would check here also.
Has anyone had to jump start a GNR yet? Thanks in advance.

The video has the connector pins counted out so you can still find the right ones by counting from the top of the connector. You can also jump it from the motherboard jumper pins.

When you power on, are all the red LEDs lit on the big board below the CPU box?

#9289 2 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

Yes the IO board has power (red LED’s lit with power applied).

If that's the case, then yeah, you can do the jump from the video, or, depending on which motherboard you have, jump the power on jumper and if that doesn't work, the CMOS clear pin points (or jumper).

#9313 2 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

Many thanks. The board in GNR appears to be slightly different. I received the pin out diagram from JJP overnight but it’s different to the ATX connector on the machine. Attached photo. Thoughts?
[quoted image]

That looks like an ASROCK H310CM motherboard...

fix-dead-jjpotc-ASROCK-H310CM-HDV_mobo_sml.jpgfix-dead-jjpotc-ASROCK-H310CM-HDV_mobo_sml.jpg
#9316 2 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

Awesome thanks guys, I’ll try this later today and let you know the results. Cheers!

The power btn jumper pins short you want to do with the power on.

The CMOS clear (if you have to do this) you want to do with the power off.

#9361 2 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

Many thanks to PinMonk, the procedure here (listed under 'try this first') brought the machine to life. Appreciate your help. Unfortunately I delivered the machine to the customer and it then did the same thing again. Do you suggest the CMOS clear to 'future proof' the board? Obviously I'll chat with tech support again about this too.
Thank you again.

I have no idea why JJP doesn't ship these with a momentary switch installed for the power. They did for some ECLE WOZ, and pretty much ALL owners will run into this issue at some point. I'd install a momentary switch like this:

https://www.amazon.ae/Computer-Motherboard-Switch-Reset-Power/dp/B09296LT15

in machines you send to your customers. If you order from Alibaba or Aliexpress you can get them for less than a dollar each Qty 12 at a time. It makes it WAY easier to get things going again when this happens if you have this already plugged in and waiting inside the backbox.

So in your case here, it could be a number of things (in order from most to least likely):

1. It wasn't left on long enough after you kickstarted it.
2. CMOS is corrupt
3. CMOS battery is flaky
4. Motherboard is bad
5. ATX power supply is bad

I'd try the CMOS clear (machine power OFF when you do this one) and if that doesn't do it, then CMOS battery replace/then clear again. And once you get it up, leave it up for a bit. If that doesn't do it, the motherboard or ATX power supply may be bad.

#9363 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not every WOZ.
LTG : )

Oh, right. Maybe that was limited to the initial ECLEs.

But it should be a standard feature on ALL JJP machines. In quantity, it's something like 10-20 cents and would make support a LOT easier.

#9380 2 years ago
Quoted from Xelz:

For those who have used a small iron to repair pooling before it cracks, which iron brand do you recommend? I’m a total noob at this and wouldn’t even know what to google other than “iron”

Everything you need to know on the subject is in the yelobird repair thread here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

#9384 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Isn't Utah the state where you can have as many underage wives as you want

Not legally, but it's still done.

#9386 2 years ago
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:

You people have clearly never been to Utah. No polygamy isn’t legal. Yes you can buy alcohol and go to bars. Most of the state isn’t even Mormon and Mormons aren’t any more pearl clutching than any other conservative religion.

youpeople.jpgyoupeople.jpg
#9405 2 years ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Do any of you Nancy’s actually play the game or just talk about snapped rubbers and mods?!! Someone tell me how to blow this thing up!! Paging Eskaybee

Just watch Karl DeAngelo's (iepinball) twitch streams. He blows it up fine. I think he was the first to show the wizard mode.

#9406 2 years ago
Quoted from swampy:

Great stuff, thanks again PinMonk. When I perform a CMOS clear, is anything else required after that (such as software install)? Cheers.

Once you clear the CMOS, you may have to attach a keyboard and go into the BIOS settings and "Load Defaults." Or, you may not. I've gotten away without doing it, but not sure why/why not. I think the load defaults is just to clear any corrupted settings after the clear.

#9412 2 years ago
Quoted from highdef:

Did you not read my post?! I clearly said that I am far from offended, but it is young kids that I worry about. Some parents are sensitive to it and it's not my place to say or dictate what is right or wrong.
What's wrong with me trying to avoid that situation?

If parents are cool with kids playing a Guns n Roses pin, they likely have an idea what's in there, content-wise, unless they were living under a rock all these years. I'd say you're being nice turning the songs with adult language off for them.

#9430 2 years ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

Never mind doesn’t matter .All that work I got the hood moved left and still the same SDTM every single time completly ruins every game .It’s unplugged looks like another Stern night .
[quoted image]

When you have it on again and the glass off, try slo-mo recording the kickout with your phone both dead on at playfield level looking towards the scoop, and overhead with the flippers in view. It can be very helpful for fixing these kinds of issues.

#9436 2 years ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

Thanks that’s smart thinking .

Once you've done it once, it will be your go-to for diagnosing stuff like this. It really helps, and you'll have video that others can look at and offer suggestions based on what it looks like.

#9460 2 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

Got my notice that mine are shipped from you yesterday. Yay!!!! How is the shield progressing?

I have a sample that lines up well with the plastic scan I have, so I'm sending it out for a real-world test fit.

#9543 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Search IEpinball on YouTube and message him here or there. Karl has been there.

Karl was confused, too, but he really enjoyed the game constantly changing up during the mode. It was fun to watch.

#9544 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

According to Keefer, the machine coding logic will only allow the CE to become interactive with the LED's behind and under the cab and backbox, beyound that you're into coding hacks and what not - not something I have the desire to poke around with for the return
Just do what I did and rig up your own LED strips independant of the game. You're going to be to immersed in the game to care about the led's outside the game anyways.
Plus mine are voice controlled via Alexa and wifi, I can program virtually anything I want them to sync or pattern after - including react to music when the game is on via the Magic Home app - just won't sync to the colors of the light show in game.
Take a look:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I haven't seen the back of a CE. Are the LED light strips on a CE's backbox and undercab routed into the cabinet wood so they sit flush with the machine, or just tacked on? I would hope JJP did a nice job finishing them into the cabinet.

#9546 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Right but re watching the video, you can follow what you’re supposed to do.

Oh, no, for sure, but getting there for the first time blind like Karl did, pretty much anyone would be confused because it keeps changing things up and messing with flippers, using playfield features, action button, etc to advance.

#9550 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

[quoted image]

Boo. That's not the level of polish I was expecting to see. Tacked-on LED strips in a plastic casing with wires hanging out? Come on.

Thanks for the pic!

#9551 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Haha yeah. It’s fun to go in blind, but that was probably not what Karl had expected. Usually it’s something a bit more straightforward, but I like what JJP did with the wizard mode. It was different, wasn’t over in 5 seconds, and would make me want to try and get back to it.

I think it's one of the most innovative wizard modes ever, if not THE most. Love the way Keith is using the playfield features much differently throughout and keeps changing it up. Obvious a lot of thought went into it, and it seems fun and challenging.

#9578 2 years ago
Quoted from Dashmonster:

Can someone enlighten us on what exact moment the game takes your picture? So many pics of me staring at my dick lol I can’t figure it out

That's what it looks for. When you match that profile, it snaps the pic.

#9583 2 years ago
Quoted from kcZ:

About to install my Cliffys. Where does this one go?
[quoted image]

Ball trough entrance.

JJP-Drain-inst01 (resized).jpgJJP-Drain-inst01 (resized).jpg
#9613 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Just a suggestion, it seems so incongruous to have such beautiful things in such a depressing space. Sorry if i sounded insulting, it was not my intention.

It's a garage. Sometimes you put the pins where they fit. Better than a kitchen or hallway (both of which I've seen done).

#9675 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

Got my nasty bit of playfield pooling.
138 Games in, on a CE PF.
“How disappointing” call out on CONGO is the only thing that comes to mind. should I just flatten it out and stick a piece of Mylar before replacing the post? Hope the other side stays intact.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, that is nasty. The premium Mirco quality shining through the cracks in the torn clear and lifted art. No idea why JJP doesn't dump Mirco and give Bader another try. It literally cannot be worse than this. Spooky PF's Bader supplies seem to be fine now. JJP could have both Bader and Mirco supplying playfields as a test in a transition period, even. I can't believe JJP is going to pump out another 3000 or whatever jjGnR machines with known crappy playfields from Mirco. FIX IT. They're not powerless.

Repair process detailed here, but you might need to use some superglue to set the fragments once you get them flattened out, before the mylar goes on:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands

#9683 2 years ago
Quoted from PinFever:

So About these issues with the Playfield Posts and art Peeling from around them . I had only pooling at one place on Delivery but now the Post up Top Under AXL The one between A and X to the top right of the extra Ball Light i just discovered it Getting bad around that one post as well as above the Left Inlane between AMP and GNR and will most likely utilize your method but why is this happening ?
Looked so smooth and great on Delivery and now doing this . Looked as it was cured and dried properly !

On this one it looks like the art and clear both came off the playfield, so the art isn't grabbing the wood, either. This is the same problem Bader had on the original run ECLE WoZ where chunks of the playfield art and clear just came off the playfield and left clean wood underneath. It's the reason JJP parted ways with Bader pretty quickly. I have NO IDEA why JJP is letting Mirco get away with this same crap for FOUR MACHINES NOW. It's been an issue since Dialed In (chipping on Dialed In, pooling on Wonka and jjGnR, and chipping/pooling on jjPotC).

It's especially mystifying since Bader seems to have gotten the issue under control on the playfields they supply to Spooky. Why not show Mirco the door and give Bader another go? Mirco is just one excuse after another.

#9686 2 years ago
Quoted from Sako-TRG:

Too tight, too loose, Friday afternoon, full moon?
Give me a break!
Clueless springs to mind.

It's not an assembly issue, it's Mirco's crap playfield quality. You can clearly see the art and clear detached from the wood. That's on Mirco.

#9688 2 years ago
Quoted from Leo13:

Considering the number of playfield with manufacturing defects, is there any class action to have Mirco do the right thing ?

German company. Good luck with that one. And since JJP is the one that sold it to customers, they are your point of contact, not Mirco, anyway.

If you're in Europe, you may have some recourse due to better consumer protections.

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