I had the same shooter lane auto fire issue.
My problem was solved after I opened the metal box in the backbox. I reseated most connectors. I pushed back in it’s port a USB cable. The difference was 1 or 2 mm, but that seemed to fix it.
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I had the same shooter lane auto fire issue.
My problem was solved after I opened the metal box in the backbox. I reseated most connectors. I pushed back in it’s port a USB cable. The difference was 1 or 2 mm, but that seemed to fix it.
Problem: the skull shot sensor switches and the keyboard sensor switches stop working.
This problem occurs every few games. It was gone for some weeks with regular play, but it is back.
The sensors cannot be auto calibrated via the menu. They still don’t work after a calibration test.
I switch the game off, wait a minute, power back on and voila!!! All non working sensor switches work again!!!!
What is the cause of this and what is the solution????
I reseated the connectors, all cables have enough slack, inspected connectors and pins but all looks ok.
I suspect the upper right flipper mech. It creates too much trembling of the nearby boards with fragile components. After a few games: BAM!! A component or connection gets a little bit too much trembling and the sensors go off-line. But this is just my humble opinion.
Two days have passed and not one single reply to this problem I expect many more owners will have. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Quoted from Maurice:Problem: the skill shot sensor switches and the keyboard sensor switches stop working.
This problem occurs every few games. It was gone for some weeks with regular play, but it is back.
The sensors cannot be auto calibrated via the menu. They still don’t work after a calibration test.
I switch the game off, wait a minute, power back on and voila!!! All non working sensor switches work again!!!!
What is the cause of this and what is the solution????
I reseated the connectors, all cables have enough slack, inspected connectors and pins but all looks ok.
I suspect the upper right flipper mech. It creates too much trembling of the nearby boards with fragile components. After a few games: BAM!! A component or connection gets a little bit too much trembling and the sensors go off-line. But this is just my humble opinion.
Can this PSU be used:
I don’t know anything about PSUs and I see so many different types (platinum, gold, titanium, TX, GX) that I don’t know what to buy anymore.
I ordered the 850W Seasonic gold but in the end it was out of stock.
I replaced the standard Corsair PSU for a Seasonic prime 850. I carefully removed all that had to be removed and double checked everything.
All works, except the switches. I cannot start a game. Menu buttons and flipper buttons are dead. Cannot acces the menu.
Start game lamp also doesn’t work.
Any advice where to start?
I choose the 850W Seasonic because I plan to add pinstadium and pinwoofer.
With the original 450W the game sometimes crashed. A song wouldn’t start for example or just during gameplay the game rebooted. After reading on Pinside about these issues I decided to go for maximum reliability.
The pinwoofer and pinstadium are not installed yet. I did add extra LED backbox lighting.
Also added is an active 300W subwoofer, but I don’t think that makes any difference for the power supply.
In short: sofar I played a handful of games and the game works exactly as before. No crashes sofar. I’ll update once a few 100 more games are played.
My GnR CE lost almost all high and medium output from the speakers. At sound level 30 I hear almost no voices or sound or music. Just a lot of bass.
Soundbar on top is already disconnected.
Any advice? Where to start?
I used to have a active sub hooked onto the bass speaker. I switched this sub off since I don’t need any extra bass at the moment.
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