(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 188 votes
    17%
  • LE 628 votes
    57%
  • SE 77 votes
    7%
  • None 218 votes
    20%

(1111 votes)

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_5643 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5642 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2460.gif
IMG_0503 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2451 (resized).jpeg
Screenshot 2024-03-22 at 1.26.23 PM (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_4223 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2435.gif
IMG_0331.gif
IMG_2432.gif
IMG_2249 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5614 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5615 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5616 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

78 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #34 Feature matrix listing differences for each edition. Posted by Dallas_Pin (3 years ago)

Post #414 GNR Manual - link to JJP site Posted by knobstone (3 years ago)

Post #434 Full Song List Posted by Concretehardt (3 years ago)

Post #755 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Guitar Neck Lock Release tip Posted by kermit24 (3 years ago)

Post #1017 TECH: LIGHTING. Troubleshooting spot light motion issues Posted by wdbthree (3 years ago)

Post #3837 How to use jukebox mode Posted by kermit24 (3 years ago)

Post #4098 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Flipper adjustment tips Posted by Eskaybee (3 years ago)

Post #5052 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter rod power. Change barrel spring. Posted by WannaPinball (3 years ago)

Post #5235 Scorbit jjGnR integration FAQ Posted by jsa (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Mattyk.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

372 posts in this topic match your search for posts by Mattyk. You are on page 1 of 2.
#6697 3 years ago

I am seriously contemplating purchasing this pin. For those that have had it long enough to figure out the rules, is it still hard to figure out what to shoot for? As it has been brought up many times, with all the lights it seems like it’s difficult to know what to aim at.

Is there more to this pin than just flailing around in multi ball? It’s hard to find good YouTube videos because of the music copyright garbage

1 week later
#7184 3 years ago

I just put a deposit down for an LE. Scheduled delivery is June. I hope by that time code 1.19 is out and this mess is figured out

#7207 3 years ago

Of the 5,000 LE’s being made, does anyone know what number they are on?

#7217 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

They're averaging just under 50 a week, and the CEs are still under 300 shipped, so probably safe to say the sum total made of SE, LE, CEs so far is less than 500.

Thanks. I was trying to gauge how long these would be in production for. Sounds like at least a couple years

#7267 3 years ago

I think this was asked before but not sure it was answered. The music volume during a song seems to cut out whenever there are call outs. Is there a setting to prevent that or a way to tweak it so the song volume doesn’t lower when a call out occurs?

#7301 3 years ago

Sounds like many of your distributors require you to make payments prior to delivery? I guess I am lucky. $250 deposit and rest due at delivery

#7338 3 years ago
Quoted from BozoTheClown:

You will be asked for the rest prior to the machine shipping. They won't ship anything from JJP until the distributor has confirmed 100% payment.

Nope. Bank check handed to the delivery guy when he drops off my game

#7349 3 years ago

Up till today I only had the chance to play the LE. Today I played both the SE and LE. Man, I really felt the gameplay was better on the SE. I could see the playfield better and it was easier to hit the left ramp and left orbit shots. I think the bass guitar rail going down the left side is the biggest issue in terms of playfield visibility...for me anyway. Not sure if others feel the same.
G
I love the light show much more on the LE for obvious reasons, and I do like the upper playfield and guitar locks. My opinion of course, but if the LE did away with the bass guitar rails it would be a perfect layout.

Now I am second guessing the LE vs the SE. I guess I’ll have to make another trip and play some more

#7361 3 years ago

This is a pic of a relatively new SE. I see there are black washers under the sling posts. Does everyone now get these with new deliveries?

CBA021D8-6AE3-425D-A158-71178AD066CA (resized).jpegCBA021D8-6AE3-425D-A158-71178AD066CA (resized).jpeg
#7374 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Yep mine has them to with Feb 21 build date. I looked over the entire playfield last night with a flashlight up close while i did full install and every post was perfect and no signs of anything a miss.

Out of curious what code did yours have installed? What is the best code right now? Is it indeed 1.19?

#7380 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Out of box it had 1.15 and now im running 1.19. Id say 1.19 is the best code since its the newest with no bugs that ive seen and it fixes the wifi issue. 1.15 some of the songs didnt have applause jackpots and 1.16 had reboot issues and 1.17 broke wifi. I never ran 1.18.

Thanks that is helpful

#7601 3 years ago

Oh please. Everyone knows the upper playfield on WWFRR is superior lol

#7672 3 years ago

Wondering if anyone has tried this mod to improve sound quality. If so any issues such as humming or does anyone know if you can screw up the game by trying this?

#7815 2 years ago
Quoted from Av8:

Can I get some opinions on GNR SE? Does it have flow? The videos I watch rarely have combos. I like combos.
Second, What must have Mods are there?
Should I just waiting 4 months for LE?

I played both side by side. I think the LE is worth the additional cost. The light show is head and shoulders better. The upper playfield and guitar lock does not interrupt flow much. I think it’s good to be able to catch your breath for a second as the SE is non stop. Plus with the LE you get the invisiglass, shaker, and external volume and Bluetooth controls.

#7838 2 years ago
Quoted from Stags6969:

Not sure how, but this happened today.
70 million on Paradise City [quoted image]

This is one of my fears with this game. Well, aside from the updating issues lol. I can totally see how you could have these incredibly high scores and then have the same type of game, maybe even play better, and end up with a score that is a fraction of that amount. It all comes down to the booster multiballs and how lucky you are to make shots during multi ball. With that said I can’t wait for mine to come in

1 week later
#8112 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Theoretical question, what happens if I accidentally install the LE software on my SE via USB?

Some guy did that on Deadpool and he was able to play some features of the LE. I think it was another disco mode. It’s on the owners forum. Not sure if that would work here but given the number of people having trouble updating, I bet at least one person installed the wrong software

#8410 2 years ago

My LE should be getting delivered this weekend. So pumped. Anyone know what size mini flipper rubber to get for the mini playfield? I can either get 1” or 1.25”

I’m also gonna get a few pawls for the flippers in case mine break like other did.

Anything else I should buy for the game while I’m shopping?

#8416 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Here's a good kit to get you in the right direction
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5755
I changed whatever was within reach to Titans, still have a couple PL slings and bumbers
The small flipper is listed as mini in the kit
also, I also went with 2 1/4 vs 2 inch for the slings as 2 inch Titans felt too tight, 2 1/4 feel just right to the factory 2 inch

Thanks!

#8554 2 years ago

Anyone know if the magnet issue has been fixed by JJP? For those who had the magnet fail, what did JJP do to fix it? Did they just send a new coil?

#8566 2 years ago

Just wondering if anyone has tried this? For the cost it looks like it’s a no brainer but I haven’t actually seen any videos comparing the sound before and after except for the chart in his video

#8605 2 years ago

Question. I am on code 1.21.

I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.

Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

#8610 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Sounds like the KISS scoop-type switch issue. It was FAMOUS for this when the switch got sloppy. The switch is momentarily registering instead of staying on when the ball goes in. That causes a kickout instead of a song start.

Any fix for this?

#8618 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If it's like KISS, you just have to bend the switch arm up a bit so it doesn't bounce when the ball comes in and stays engaged.

Well I did a switch test and the switch appears to work as it should. Stays engaged. Not sure what is wrong.

Also, do band members get spotted at the star of each ball automatically? For instance, I drain right away without spotting a member, on ball 2 Axl is lit steady. I drain out without hitting anything. On ball 3 Axl, slash, and bass is lit steady?

Is this right?

Any other ideas for the scoop issue is appreciated. Maybe I have a cold solder joint

#8620 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I believe so, similar to how POTC would spot shots for the At Worlds End mode with each ball. It's a nerf to help newbies get to *something* by ball 3.

That’s what I figured. Just trying to rule out switch issues. And just so I am correct, when the song is ready and I shoot the scoop, the ball should not come firing out right away? Like it should stay in there for at least the countdown to either choose a new song or start the one that is displayed.

#8628 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Mine started doing that last week. My tech mate adjusted the switch but it's started doing it again niow.
Shoots a ball out while you are still choosing a song half the time.

Thanks. Sounds like I need to fiddle with it

#8648 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Mattyk... This was recently brought to my attention by our artist JP... After he sent a video, it looked like it was being caused by the left tramp diverter timing out and disengaging. The force of the diverter was enough to bounce the scoop switch which caused the ball to kick out. I've since added a software fix that is in beta now and will be in next release, but in the meantime do as pinmonk says and bend up the scoop arm a very little bit. This fixed it for JP.
You can test this theory by going into switch test with door open and power off, putting a ball in the scoop, then manually push down and release the left tramp diverter, and notice if switch test says the scoop switch moved.

I appreciate the help. I will test this theory. I have since tried to bend the scoop switch a bit. When I turned the game back on a switch report came back and said that my upper playfield switch at the rubber ring (#38 I think) was closed. I adjusted it. Since then I have not had the scoop eject issue. Fingers are crossed. Maybe PinMonk was right about a switch being too sensitive causing just issue. We’ll see tomorrow.

Thanks so much for looking into this

Matt

#8649 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Mattyk... This was recently brought to my attention by our artist JP... After he sent a video, it looked like it was being caused by the left tramp diverter timing out and disengaging. The force of the diverter was enough to bounce the scoop switch which caused the ball to kick out. I've since added a software fix that is in beta now and will be in next release, but in the meantime do as pinmonk says and bend up the scoop arm a very little bit. This fixed it for JP.
You can test this theory by going into switch test with door open and power off, putting a ball in the scoop, then manually push down and release the left tramp diverter, and notice if switch test says the scoop switch moved.

I’ll also point out that on one occasion I tried to quickly hit the action button, before the ball ejected from the scoop, to change the song and the game reset. It has only done this once. Code 1.21

#8662 2 years ago
Quoted from jints56:

I can get this to happen every time (1.19 and 1.21). At tank hitting action button and the left/right flipper buttons before song starts. Reset

Are you saying the reset happens when you simultaneously hit the action button with a flipper button at the same time?

In my case, my friend was playing when I hit the action button for him. I’m not sure if he was also holding a flipper button

#8663 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

IT HAS ARRIVED!!!!! So close to number 666. But if you ad 3 + 3 thats six, and since there are 2 3's...
[quoted image][quoted image]

My LE is 662. So far my spotlights are working. I feel like it’s a ticking time bomb. I made sure there is enough slack in the wires before playing it.

#8673 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Okay, another item on the glitch list...
My right orbit has sucked out of the box, constant hangups and weird flow into the pops...well today I noticed there is a one way gate there but it was stuck open...lifting theplayfield to unjam it, I noticed that the protective clear shielding on my drumsticks is peeling away and the hanging adhesive is binding the gate hinge and locking it in the up position...
Ugh...I know NIB headaches but this is getting ridiculous...Last night, my left flipper coil stop completely flew off and landed in my coinbox, luckily nothing broke but I'm scared to play it now, feels like I'm finding a new issue every day
I know thats nott the case but just feels that was...okay done venting
So I'm, torn, remove the drumsticks myself and put a couple dabs of glue down to hold the lamination in place or contact distro for new drumsticks
[quoted image]

All my coil stops needed tightening. Before playing I went through and was able to tighten them up. I was able to turn them almost 1/2 turn. I probably should have used some thread lock

#8683 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Heres my finished re-mylar job: I had to remove the 3 screws holding the drumsticks and the 2 holding the led bracket to give room to work and get a good covering of the new mylar
Superglue will not bond the adhesive and actually the mylar turned out to be a more pro factory look.
Here's the before and after[quoted image][quoted image]

I have the same issue. I didn’t have mylar so I used some small pieces of tape. Seems to hold for now. We’ll see.

#8702 2 years ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Next question is wifi. My game wont find any wifi networks when there should be like 5 available. anything special to do?

Did you agree to the terms and conditions?

#8703 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Question. I am on code 1.21.
I’ve found that sometimes when I hit the ball in the scoop when a song is ready, It just fires it back out at me before I even decide if I want to play the song or switch to a different one.
Is this typical or could I have a switch issue?

I am gonna call this issue resolved. Seems like my issue was either an upper playfield switch being too sensitive and registering when it shouldn’t, or just a tweak needed on the scoop switch so when the left ramp diverter resets it does not cause a vibration to the scoop switch, resulting in premature ejectultion

#8818 2 years ago

I thought I read that there was a way to adjust the monitor settings such as brightness and resolution. Anyone know where to find these settings?

#8820 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Little buttons on the actual monitor panel. You have to open the backbox.

Thank you

#8823 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Reverse that. Try 25-50 Brightness and 75-90 contrast and turn the gamma on (if you have that option) and see how that looks. You want the brightness down as much as possible or you get gray blacks.
I don't have a GnR here to try that firsthand yet, but that should help. Let me know what it looks like with those settings.

Someone here tried 0 brightness and 100 contrast and got good results. I haven’t tweaked mine yet

#8840 2 years ago

Anyone know where I can find a diagram of the the rings including the sizes? I scoured the manual but could not locate it.

#8842 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not in the manual yet.
I'd check Titan's ring database for amount and sizes. https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5755
LTG : )

Thanks. I’ve only had the game about a week and a slingshot ring snapped. lol. Luckily there’s extra in the goodie bag

#8853 2 years ago

I’d love if a future code update included alphabetizing the patches, showing what patches you collected during play without having to enter status report, and showing how much a jackpot you had going after you drain during a song

#8864 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Thanks guys...Okay, I did some tinkering.
This is in a completely dark room the way I play so your results my vary a little.
My defaults from JJP on the monitor were 100 Brightness and 50 Contrast.
(To access the monitor controls (see pics at bottom of post), insert your backbox key that you originally had attached to the shooter rod and most likely have it hanging inside the coin door. Remove backglass and pull on the top left and right of the monitor where it says "LCD PULL HERE". It requires a bit of force to break the magnet connection. The controls are on the right side. Menu Brings up the main menu. You can either scroll with the up down arrows to a new category or Press menu again to highlight the value you wish to change and use the left and right arrows to change the values. Press menu again and then use up down arrows to go to a new setting in the submenu. To back out to the front menu Press the Auto button. You can then select a new category and Menu to enter that submenu. It's a little tricky as the menu has a timeout, but you'll get the hang of it)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here are the setting adjustments:
[quoted image]
1. I turned the Brightness down to zero at first then came up to 25 as it dimmed too much. 25 is just at the threshold where it started getting washed (again your results may vary depending on your ambient lighting) - for those with bright lighting conditions something in the 25-40 range for brightness may be more suitable. You'll have to experiement with this range to see what looks best to you
*** Daylight or bright environments: You can bump the brightness to 100 if you like for just that 'pop' that will be missing a little if you follow my settings and turn it down to 25...the key 2 settings that seem to be the most impactful are setting Contrast to 100 and sRGB to On for Color Temp
2. I adjusted the Contrast to 100
3. I left DCR off - On disables brightness and contrast and the monitor dynamically adjusts the contrast but I don't think it looked better
Next adjustment was the biggest one
4. I Changed the Color Temp to sRGB (default was on 6500k)
I took photos of each Color Temp setting and all but the sRGB have the white levels blown out
You can see the guitar strings of the first pic I have circled that clearly show the Strings and the detail in the guitars without becoming white washed out and have the best contrast ratios out of all the Color Temp options IMHO
You can also see more detail in the flames etc..it may not appear to be correct as your working on it because the backbox LED's are in your face and the monitor is not in its enclosure while your adjusting the settings.
[quoted image]
Give it a try.
Again I play in a dark room, this may not be the best setup for those with bright lit game areas
I think the following pics look much better than the default settings. (The blacks are much more pronounced)
There is still some compression showing and I would really like inkier blacks but that is probably due to monitor limitations and the fact it is 1080p and not 2k/4k..
It's pinball afterall and not a home theater
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for posting this. I copied your settings and it looks much better. Even the photos come out better

#8866 2 years ago
Quoted from cybevenom:

Rather nice to see all that beautifull Dayne Henry Jr. art fully in the backglass. A little solder, a piece of 4000K ledstrip and an old piece of cable of a deceased pc powersupply and voila. Plug it into the spare 12V Molex connector behind the monitor and voila. Thats some nice backlit backglas around the monitor. just gotto finetune (darken it abit) around the camera area.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Would you be able to share some pics of the installation? This looks great

Quoted from Drac:

Can someone please tell me who it was that's selling a lighting kit to illuminate the backglass borders that are around the display?

This isn’t the for sale post but a nice DIY

#8917 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Sometimes the bounces are very gentle there and the skirt and the post form of v cradle that just keeps the ball on the edge without depressing the skirt so no matter of adjusting the sensitivity will actually change that I've got the leaf contacts as close as you can have them.
If you make the post bigger it provides a bigger obstacle for the ball to get around further sticking the ball..however if you make a bulge on the skirt itself the ball then depresses the skirt... Hence the foam...
Trust me I don't want to make the pin ghetto either but 300 plus plays without sticking proves this works..
What they really need to do is redesign the skirt for that area The one north of it you can see is actually cut off It's not a complete circle maybe JJP can come up with one that has a little bit of a bulge or lip on that to extend and offer it as a replacement for those willing to replace the factory one

Wouldn’t it need more of a spoon adjustment to make it more sensitive? I am gonna regret saying this, but I have yet to get a ball stuck there

#8947 2 years ago

Add me to the list of broken spotlights. My right one broke and won’t move up and down. Doesn’t seem to be full motion left to right either. I think it happened during mR Brownstone. I had plenty of slack in the wires.

For those that received a replacement, are they better built and have any broken?

#8971 2 years ago
Quoted from adrock:

Not sure, it has a white servo housing as opposed to the original one that was black. So far so good but I just installed it a few days ago.

How was the install? Any tips? Was it plug and play or did you need to assemble anything?

#8972 2 years ago

So for the busted right spotlight, the linkage isn’t broken. It just doesn’t move up or down in test mode. Is this similar to what everyone else is experiencing? I thought I saw pics or posts about the arm/linkage being broken

#8975 2 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

This was my left spotlight vertical servo on day two. Waiting for a replacement currently.
[quoted image]

Thanks for sharing. Mine appears to look ok. But no noise or movement coming from servo when testing vertical positions.

#8977 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If the arm is intact and it's just the servo that went, you might try replacing it yourself. I did with success.
WARNING: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT YOU BREAK!
The parts are commonly available at hobby shops, I've found two so far that work.
Links in here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/176#post-6250280
IMPORTANT: Make sure the servo is centered AND the spotlight position is centered when you screw on the control arm. If it's not centered, the first time the servo moves it will over-extend and almost certainly break the arm.
The servos are centered on bootup, or you can use the servo device test. When the right servo is active in the test, the left is centered and vice versa.

Thanks for the tips

#8980 2 years ago

In looking at the right vertical servo, I am missing the two, top and bottom mounting screws. See pic. Those screws are present in the left vertical servo. I wonder if missing mounting screws are a common factor in the servo failing? Just a thought. Anyone else have these screws?
5BF82D80-3C60-4AE4-9AF8-B0EB77F4574C (resized).jpeg5BF82D80-3C60-4AE4-9AF8-B0EB77F4574C (resized).jpeg

#8985 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I don't think your missing them, the right servo is mounted from underneath versus the left one, where the servo is on top..
I'm not at my machine, on the road right now, just going from memory

It looks like the screws should be there. The pic is the right light and the servo circled controls vertical movement. All other servos have the screws. I would think the linkages have a better chance of breaking if the screws are missing as vibrations could misalign the servo and add strain to the linkage.

Each spotlight has two servos. One for vertical and the other for horizontal. You are correct in that the vertical and horizontal ones are reversed between the left and right lights.

#9113 2 years ago
Quoted from Dashmonster:

Cut the plug for the old LED and spliced in two 6 foot fixtures from amazon[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you install 12v light strips? I ask because I think they also come in 6v.

Any reflection on the glass caused by this?

#9155 2 years ago

In regards to the vertical failures on the spotlights, I received this message today from JJP.

“Not many issues with the horizontal movement. The missing servo (mounting) screws and the limits they are being pushed to when initializing them seem to be the issues with the vertical movement.
The engineers are addressing the issues.”

Sounds like a code update is needed to limit the movement. This issue is more than just a bad batch of servos. Way too many failures

#9167 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Missing screws? Not sure what that means.
But if software engineering is needed to control and limit the movement of the servos to be within specific ranges, until the software comes out to limit, would it be recommended to unplug the spotlights as would they eventually always break until the software update?

Missing screws is in reference to the 2 screws that mount the servo the the assembly. Mine were actually missing on my right side and I guess this has been reported a few time. Without the screws the servo may not align correctly and add additional stress to the linkage

#9168 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

How do you translate that into a code problem?

They will need to send shorter pulses to the servo to limit the movement. Right now it seems they are moving too much and if not properly calibrated at the time of install, could result in stress on the linkage. That is why the horizontal ones are not failing. They don’t have any linkage attached so there is more room for error. Either it needs to be fixed through programming or a stronger linkage or higher quality servo will need to be installed. This is my interpretation of my conversation.

#9170 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

They will need to send shorter pulses to the servo to limit the movement. Right now it seems they are moving too much and if not properly calibrated at the time of install, could result in stress on the linkage or stress on the servo. That is why the horizontal ones are not failing. They don’t have any linkage attached so there is more room for error. Either it needs to be fixed through programming or a stronger linkage or higher quality servo will need to be installed. This is my interpretation of my conversation.

-1
#9171 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

"Properly calibrated" simply means "centered correctly at assembly time." Not software.
Again, if the "pulses were the wrong length" don't you think we'd see ALL spotlights die, consistently?
And we'd also see them overextending, which we don't.
Use logic.

They are all dying. All vertical. I wonder what percentage of people have had this issue.

#9174 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

This is bullshit. Unplug your game. And your internet connection.

I understand you will defend this game to your death. It’s ok to admit there is a problem. It’s not just a few bad servos. It’s too widespread.

#9183 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

[quoted image]
I propose that you guys settle temporarily by letting my motor test decide how widespread it is.
LE # 264, so early run. 519 total games played, sio not thrashed, but not ignored either.
Just ran a test on spotties so who wants to back the result?

I’m not sure what there is to settle. Just hopeful that JJP can come up with a solution to this issue, whether it be from a programming standpoint or quality of parts. I think everyone is on the same team and I will say the customer service from JJP is top notch.

#9186 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Of course there is a problem. Servos die. We don't have ANY indication that this is a SOFTWARE problem. I think it's irresponsible for you to suggest otherwise and scare people into unplugging things and bugging the software team for an update they aren't likely to make.
If the software was at fault we'd have 100% failure across the board which we do NOT have.
Proof? My right servo is original and still fine. The left vertical one died once, I replaced it, fine ever since.
3200 plays.

Ok bud. Enjoy your game.

#9191 2 years ago
Quoted from Yoderboy:

I had both spotlights break their linkage, talked to 2 different guys at JJP. Neither one of them blamed the linkage they blamed the servos, said they got a bad batch of them in. I have received both replacements and they are definitely different than what I had in the game, they move much better and sound better. They have also been running great since I installed them, take that for what it’s worth.

That’s great news. I’ve been trying to see if I can find replacement linkages online but no luck so far. Maybe I’m searching under the wrong terminology or maybe they are made specifically for this application. Any idea what brand servos they sent you and what brand your stock ones were?

#9194 2 years ago

It’s just that from what I’ve read here and JJP confirming that the issue has been with the vertical servos and not the horizontal. This leads me to think it is a mechanical problem, likely with the linkage possibly restricting movement and causing either the linkage to break or the servo to burn. I never said it was a code issue, but maybe a change in programming could fix it. I’m not a programmer. I also didn’t mean to turn you into madzaphX. I like happyzaphX much better

#9196 2 years ago
Quoted from Yoderboy:

The stock servos were a DGservo S05NF STD, and the new ones are a hobby king HK 15148B. I cannot stress enough how much better the new servos move on both of the axis.

My stock ones are HobbyKing Corona CS238MG.

#9241 2 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

What would you do??
I cashed in cause my heart was pounding.
[quoted image]

Wow. I have a hard time scoring over 5,000,000 lol

#9244 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Band Frenzy, yo!
Get yourself a Fender patch. In song, spam the active band member until Band Frenzy starts, then feed as many balls into the spinner/pops as you can.
When you hear gunshots popping off like popcorn you know you're in the butter zone.

I’ll do that. I need to spend some time strategizing which patches to go for and have to make it a point to try to collect them. Getting better though

#9251 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I replaced my spotlights today, when I looked at the broken ones, it looks like there is a horizontal misalignment that pulls them laterally apart making them break. See photo...[quoted image]

Did both servos have mounting screws?

#9254 2 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I'm not sure what you are asking, sorry... But each spotlight was attached to the pin with two screws.

Yes I meant the screws that mount the servo to the assembly. It definitely looks a bit misaligned in your pic

#9323 2 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

GNR LE.....left flipper switch. Is this wire supposed to be connected to the switch?
[quoted image]

Mine is the same way. I think others have said it is supposed to be that way

#9429 2 years ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

Never mind doesn’t matter .All that work I got the hood moved left and still the same SDTM every single time completly ruins every game .It’s unplugged looks like another Stern night .
[quoted image]

It looks like it should be aimed more left than what it is. You could try opening the holes of the hood larger so you can turn it more.

#9441 2 years ago

Here is the file for the linkage to the spotlight. Someone on the 3D Print thread was kind enough to share.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563/files

#9446 2 years ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

So I’d imagine take it by the right side where the back meets the curve “hood” and bend toward the left flipper is that correct ?

Before taking pliers to it, I would try applying a few strips of duct tape to the right side not the hood. Add a few layers. Maybe the ball will deflect off it and avoid SDTM.

#9450 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Awesome, that's 1/2 of the linkage, is there a file for the other half?

No this is all he had

#9451 2 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Do NOT put any tape in a scoop. Loosen the hood, adjust as far to the left flipper as possible, retighten.

He tried. Seems like either holes are either incorrect on the hood or on the playfield. I think JJP is sending him a replacement hood. My thought was the tape may actually work and won’t cause any harm.

#9465 2 years ago

Damn not a good week for my spotlights. A week or so ago my right vertical servo decided to stop working. Linkage perfectly fine. I bought a couple white hobby king servos but those are on back order so I found some OEM Coronas on amazon. I also bought a tester to calibrate them.

Two days ago the left horizontal spotlight goes rogue and spins a full 180. Burns out. Left vertical linkage broke but servo still good . I used jb weld and fixed the linkage. I may brush a light coating on the other linkage because it definitely strengthens it.

My Corona servo comes in so I use it to fix the left horizontal servo. That side is now 100%.

Power the game up and now my right side horizontal servo is not moving and it doesn’t respond to my tester. It’s burned. Worked fine last I played

So 3 of 4 stock servos failed within two weeks. Could I be that unlucky that I received 3 bad randomly chosen servos from a reputable brand? I’ll reseat the connections that go to the board. Maybe I am getting a bad connection and they are underpowered.

#9488 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I can back hand the left ramp, but not all the way to the upper playfield. Should I be able to?

I can back hand it to the upper playfield but only for the first few games. Then I think the fade starts to kick in

#9517 2 years ago
Quoted from megalo17:

Sorry if this has been addressed already, but I can't believe my LE is the first to have this problem (another one in my batch has the same problem). The left ramp diverter adjustment was all the way down upon arrival from factory. 14 games in and I notice this... Clearcoat and paint dust galore. I'm sure this is my fault for not noticing prior to putting any games on it! Anyone with a new LE may want to check the position of theirs. LE #953. Looks like a design flaw of the plunger length or the adjustment length. A slow motion video with the diverter in the fully raised position shows the bottom nut barely clearing the bashed in playfield.
[quoted image]

I believe I read that you can make an adjustment to raise the nut so it doesn’t come down and hit the playfield

#9555 2 years ago

Can someone please take a pic of this area for me? Seems like a post is supposed to go here? I noticed this today. It’s along the left orbit across from the guide separating the center loop. Thanks

6EAA7223-1A71-4391-996B-2FBE409549B7 (resized).jpeg6EAA7223-1A71-4391-996B-2FBE409549B7 (resized).jpeg
#9556 2 years ago

Looks like this is normal. Thanks Jguzik420.

#9558 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check the gallery pictures at the top of this thread. It's in there.
LTG : )

Thanks I was going through them but didn’t spot the pic after a few pages. Are you saying a post should be there?

#9589 2 years ago

Here’s another file for the spotlight linkages. This is for the the full linkage.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563

#9592 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

This is awesome!! Thanks for doing this and making our games future proof.
One possible revision though - I -think- the original has "teeth" in the socket that mate up to the servo.
Without those teeth I think it may end up just sliding, relying only on the screw friction to keep it in place.
That said I might be wrong, the next time I need to fix a spot I'll check.

I was thinking the same thing that there should be teeth. I haven’t made any of these as I don’t have a printer so not sure if they work. I asked some guys on another thread to see if they had the CAD files and they were nice enough to share.

Any idea what they use on the gear of the servo? Is that just some heat shrink?

#9602 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Huh? Heat shrink?
It's a toothy gear with a screw hole in it.[quoted image]

My stock Coronas had white rubber around the gear of the servo. Kinda resembled heat shrink based on the texture. I pulled it off and put it on the new servo. Yours came stock with the white hobby kings so maybe mine was left over from an earlier run. Weird

#9603 2 years ago
Quoted from riggy469:

The WMPC has a 3D printer

Sweet! I’m hoping to stop by one of these fridays!

#9638 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Are you guys seriously saying this game needs auxiliary lighting?
Gotta be pulling my leg.

I was thinking the same thing. A better way to spend the $ would be on a pinwoofer

#9665 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

Got my nasty bit of playfield pooling.
138 Games in, on a CE PF.
“How disappointing” call out on CONGO is the only thing that comes to mind. should I just flatten it out and stick a piece of Mylar before replacing the post? Hope the other side stays intact.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Damn. Was the post loose?

#9755 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

I’m in Israel so getting the game back, and the additional shipping and tax it cost me in the first place, wouldn’t make it worth anyone’s while. it’s VERY disappointing to say the least. But it is what it is. My build date is a mix of December (decals,printed date) and January (hand written date on larger back box decal). It’s a CE, so they’re not prone to anything if anyone thought that. And I’ve since noticed another two or three posts that are still 100% in tact, but a formation building around them can be seen if you’re now inspecting it closely. I hardly have 138 games and this is already happening, I plan on keeping this one for at least twenty years going forward but seeing someone’s post here with the mic pooling around the magnet? What washer will I need then? I’m only a month in!
Why don’t we all just get a white wood of gnr and call it even? I’d be happy with a bare pf rather than a worn,chipped,pooled out one any day. Just as much as I’m into playing pinball, I really am drawn to the hobby for the art, the aesthetics, the pop culture , THE DETAILS. So this really bums me.
This is the first thing I’ve really mentioned, I was ok with all the rest of the problems. Mylar on the drumsticks, rubbers, diverter/left ramp, my lockbar not fitting properly for the latch to lock, but this one is really upsetting.

Stay safe!!

#9759 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Send Cliffy an email with what you are interested in.
He will put you on the list.

FYI he was about 4 weeks out when I ordered mine a couple weeks ago. I would order soon

#9785 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:To put on button on my diverter issue and to help save anyone else's PF from getting f'd...there are 2 screws that adjust the height of the diverter. Mine came from the factory too low, which meant the hex kept pummeling into the playfield unbeknownst to me which is why it kept trapping the ball. See below the damage it did to my playfield. Best to make sure it's not doing the same on yours.
[quoted image]

#9786 2 years ago
Quoted from Gambeno:

Anyone know where to learn how to do this?? I was just made aware of this, and mine is bashing into the playfield as well.

I posted a link to Adam Ross’s post on his adjustment

#9817 2 years ago

So with the mad rush to put the plastic washers under all the posts, does anyone have experience using the silicone washers that Titan sells? I wonder if those would be better.

Last thing I want to do is just add a larger washer so the damage occurs even farther from the posts

#9877 2 years ago

I read on Titans website that their silicone washers are for plastic posts only. Probably because they “grab” plastic better than metal. I wish I read that before buying a bunch. Oh well. Plastic it is

#9930 2 years ago

I just spent a LONG evening throwing plastic washers under every post I could easily get to. About 18 washers. Even under posts where it looked ok I had pooling. Every post had pooling. Thankfully no tears. Left orbit ball guide was gonna be a disaster. The washer was torqued to the point it was bent. Most washers had the sharp edge facing down.

Also, what kind of psychopath puts stainless (non magnetic) washers under posts and pretty much everywhere else?

Also installed the new spotlights that came in. Easy job.

1A510D1A-5790-4271-B12E-A30A556A0A00 (resized).jpeg1A510D1A-5790-4271-B12E-A30A556A0A00 (resized).jpeg92B54EF3-8A90-4F81-954A-9B2882BC9A0C (resized).jpeg92B54EF3-8A90-4F81-954A-9B2882BC9A0C (resized).jpegE4F12F41-4CC8-4AA1-A6C2-1FBF0A4A25A5 (resized).jpegE4F12F41-4CC8-4AA1-A6C2-1FBF0A4A25A5 (resized).jpeg
#9937 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I know that washer and exact spot all too well.. it's what drew me to the whole problem in the first place. I could tell it was way over torqued just by looking at it . I don't know whether to thank the person who cranked destroyed that washer at the factory or thank them because they got me to look at the rest of the playfield before the shit show started
Instead of properly aligning that guide rail and then carefully adjusting torque they just got on the bottom of that nut and cranked until the guide rail positioned itself to where they needed it to be
amateur hour whoever did that... And it didn't take much of an effort to do it the correct way just either lazy or incompetent is my guess
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I was also thinking they tightened it to get the rail right but there seemed to be plenty of play in the guide when I loosened the first two nuts. Weird. That was one of my worst areas

#9958 2 years ago
Quoted from blkspiderman:

Has anyone changed the rubbers to there out lane posts, maybe bigger ones or know a solution to the balls draining on the outer lanes 80% of the time, THANKS!!

If you want to reduce outlane drains you could always swap in a star post. I’d put a plastic washer under it though to be safe from PF damage.

You could also change the little rubbers to 7/16 size if you keep the original spike posts

#9969 2 years ago
Quoted from simpswho:

Hello Gunners, can some tell me how many of these plastic washer's I will need to help fix the post pool problems. are they all the same size? Is one better than another ? Thanks ,I want to try and Bullitt proof my game out of box!

I’d get about 20 washers. 3/4” works. Some you may need to trim using some cutters as some posts are close together. Take pics as you pull ramps and plastics off. Careful not to let any existing washers under posts slide away from you. Put a microfiber towel on playfield to catch any that get away from you

#9971 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

It’s crazy people gotta do all of this work to save a $10k+ game. I’ve never thought about doing this to a 90s pin. Maybe they need to go back to screen printing

If the pooling starts to happen again with the clear washers we are all screwed. It’s too bad because this is the coolest game I’ve ever played

#10063 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Well crap...3rd Spotlight busted...this is with the newer white servos after my other 2 RMA's...
Anyone have a hyperlink to the linkage arm? I'd really like to get some spares of these as they seem to break pretty easily...I would rather change them than have to keep buggin gmy distro for RMA's of the entire assembly...
[quoted image]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854563

Here you go. I painted a light coat of JB weld on my new ones and also successfully “glued” my broken one together with the JB. The JB really strengthens the part. I also applied a little extra white lithium grease

#10066 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I take it I need a 3D printer for that? Is there a way to order that from an online site with the 3D files?

Yes sorry this is what I thought you were looking for. It’s nowhere to be found online. You need a 3D printer or a friend that has one. Try some JB weld while you wait for a replacement

#10078 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I just did a search for Anycubic 3D printers...I didn't realize how the prices had come down...looks like I'm gonna get a new toy lol
Could you recommend the S, Pro or X version? - sorry to derail the GnR thread

Sorry I know nothing about 3D printers. Looks like you found a website to print them?

#10121 2 years ago

For those that routinely score over 10 million, what 4 patches are you likely to go for first? I’m trying to come up with a strategy to score better

#10127 2 years ago
Quoted from Chetrico:

My scores have been hovering between 30 and 60 mill. That said, I can't seem to get to the next level. I always grab the fender patch first and then move around to the band members. Bra and panty combo is nice to have for double bonus... and skill shot increase. To me, the most important thing is to try and have all six balls locked to start the song. Even when I have Slash solo ready, I avoid the scoop and try and lock the six balls for song. I've yet to beat 600,000 on Slash solo. Seems high risk low reward to me.

Fender is the patch I go for first. I’ll try your strategy with the band member patches and locking balls. Is there a way to inactivate the song when it’s lit?

#10173 2 years ago

For those that have installed mirror blades what is the verdict? I mean, mirrors enhance any game and make it look stunning, but I do like the “glow” I get on the black just above the hot rails. Do you get a similar effect with the mirror blades?

-5
#10295 2 years ago
Quoted from metallik:If you're getting or have a game with no damage yet, one thing to try would be to take an xacto knife with a new blade and carefully score the playfield right around the base of the post. Cut through the clear and art so any twisting or other movement of the post isn't transferred to the surrounding art.
If you make the cut right against the post you'll never see it. Don't add any washers, and if a small washer is already there just score around it. Goal is to separate the clear under the post from the clear surrounding it.

Sorry dude. That’s the dumbest post on this thread

#10343 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I have to give a LOUD RINGING endorsement to PinMonk and the Tibetan Breeze Kit for GnR.
First off the packaging and instructions.
Love the quality and care - true pro stuff right here. Funny, clever, and well thought out instructions with illustrations
Install time - everything fit perfectly and install was a breeze (no pun)- literally 20 minutes
Sound, virtually undetectable with glass on and lock bar secure.
Now for the best part:
They are a game changer....and by this I mean...you can't play GnR without them after you try them once.
They allow you to keep your flipper performance at a constant throughout play. Not only strength, but the ability to string together combos, backhands, and shots, impossible through normal progression in the game without the fan kit due to flipper fade.
They are worth every penny and they should be the first mod you install on your machine...followed a close second by the Pinwoofer JJP Super kit
A++++++++++

I’ll second this. I installed today simultaneously with installing the cliffy at the scoop (using your instructions by the way...so thank you). The fans are awesome.

Also, I was getting some serious ball bounce as it rolled down the inlane onto the flippers. I had been using super bands. I changed to the slim titans and the bounce is pretty much gone

#10373 2 years ago

Anyone know where the “special” is?

#10375 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

AFAIK to collect special you must collect the patch for it. I don't think there is a specific shot for it.

Gotcha. I thought that patch was to light special, but couldn’t figure out what shot was lit

#10377 2 years ago

So the GNR patch lights special. This patch isn’t available to start the game. You must unlock it. Not sure how, but I assume it appears after you collect enough letters to spell Guns N’ Roses but I could be wrong.

In settings, I made it so you get an extra ball when you collect the special.

I collected the patch but no indication that special was lit and I did not get an automatic extra ball, nor was the extra ball lit. Anyone have any ideas? Code 1.21

#10379 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Hoping for a code update soon to take care of desert demolition or maybe if it can be disabled so it doesn’t come up.

If you hold the action button when scoop is lit to start the mode it will disable it

#10383 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Huh! Just Desert Demolition or any mode?

Any mode

#10384 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Thx. How do you know desert demo is the mode that’s lit? I never paid much attention, is it on the screen or playfield somewhere?

The album I think is flashing that corresponds to desert demo. Not sure which album it is

#10520 2 years ago

It’s too bad you lose the full jackpot when you finish a song but fail to collect the applause jackpot. Seems like you should get the jackpot you had built up once the song finishes, and then you should get an additional jackpot for hitting the scoop at the end

#10557 2 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

This would eliminate the cash out risk/reward that makes this game so great.
Automatically awarding the points as the song goes would ruin the game.
If you can’t hit that last shot, then you can always cash out before then.

Say you keep multi ball going the entire song. You never get a cash out opportunity. The songs all vary in length but on full completion you should get the jackpot. The applause jackpot feels like it should be a separate award. I mean it’s a bit frustrating that you can play excellent and then miss out on a huge score because you fail to hit one shot in the last 10 seconds. Just my opinion. It still keeps the risk reward feature in place, just provides a little more satisfaction

#10560 2 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Edit: misread.
Yah, if you double drain the first time you get down to single ball play it’s tough.
But I don’t think it’s worth modifying the scoring balance for that particular scenario.
I do appreciate your opinion, just respectfully disagree.

Keefer did mention he will eventually do something to balance the scoring so it will be interesting to see what he does

#10719 2 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

Has anyone had any issues with the shooter lane kick out? Just got my machine set-up, and the ball hangs about 30% of the time
[quoted image]

Obvious question...is it level?

#10793 2 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

So on my dad's machine when the ball returns from the left orbit it hits the top of the left sling.
On my machine, the ball goes gracefully past the sling.
What should I do on his machine to correct this? I feel like possibly slightly bending the rail on the left orbit might do the trick but not sure if that's the best approach.

Loosen the first bolt under the ball guide and push it hard towards the middle of playfield. Might need to wedge a screwdriver for leverage. Then retighten. See if that works. If not also try loosening the second bolt and repeat process or use some needle nose pliers and bend the end of the ball guide towards middle of playfield

#10795 2 years ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

Yeah I agree, I just got my build date of 5/21 and my number is 1121. I would bet they just pick a plaque out of the box.

That seems so odd to me. They earmark 5,000 of these games but likely won’t sell that many. So someone could draw game 5,000 but there might only be 3,000 made. Someone will call that game rare and sell if for $40k lol

#11001 2 years ago

I thought that I read that someone removed the plastic washer from a trouble area and the pooling was gone.

Has anyone else checked their playfield condition by removing a clear washer?

#11022 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Brilliant! Now if only someone would do a write up.. did you document the process?

I’d like to hear his process as well. My guess is an external power source and a t-tap into the data line. Using addressable Leds. Likely need to duplicate the same number of Leds used on both the left and right hotrails.

I want to try this so bad but my thought is to wait till my warranty period is up

#11057 2 years ago

.

#11058 2 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

I'll count the LEDs when I get home, one roll 16ft was enough to do all four strips. You will also need some connectors that allow you to go from wire to the LED strip I'll post links when I get home

Did you only tap into the green wire which is data?

#11077 2 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

Green (data) and white(ground) on each side. Each rail has unique data

By also tapping the ground wire, it sounds like you only run the positive to the external power? Does that make it so it turns on and off automatically along with the game?

#11102 2 years ago

Is it just me or are you guys adjusting your scoop every so often to keep the ball ejecting to the sweet spot on the left flipper?

#11104 2 years ago
Quoted from Leo13:

Never adjusted mine ! Never had a SDTM from the scoop

I tried some blue loctite on the screws but it seems I have to readjust every 50 games or so. Never a SDTM but it definitely ejects the ball towards the end of the left flipper over time. After adjustment it goes to the middle of flipper. Not a big deal but maybe I need to screw it in tighter

#11107 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Did you try just bumping that VUK coil up one number higher in the settings? Likely as the game heats up it gets a bit weak. Just a thought.

Thanks I’ll give that a try

#11109 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I have all my leg levelers screwed all the way in per the jjp recommendation. What pitch are you guys all at, or did you stick with factory recommendations of levelers all the way in?

6.8 degrees between the flippers is working best for me. I’ve tried both 6.5 and 7.0

#11188 2 years ago

I’m not a very good nudger, so I added a couple of star posts to limit the cheap drains. Of course they sit on 3/4” plastic washers.

Now my son and I have a chance at starting 2-3 songs per game lol.

3C78A3D4-953A-4D46-82C4-FEE793A971AF (resized).jpeg3C78A3D4-953A-4D46-82C4-FEE793A971AF (resized).jpeg836A0E94-6310-435E-9F0D-4020D9B609FD (resized).jpeg836A0E94-6310-435E-9F0D-4020D9B609FD (resized).jpeg
#11190 2 years ago
Quoted from blkspiderman:

Is everyone using preventative measures and putting the PETG on every post or just the ones with chipping? I read someone said you may cause more damage by trying to use preventative measures and it got me thinking......

I’ve got a plastic washer on every post I could get to. So far so good. Truth is nobody knows what is good to do and not good to do. But I will say doing nothing is the worst thing to do.

#11192 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Can the ball even got down the outlanes??

It sure can and still does lol

#11194 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Then you should use a wider star post so it doesn’t

Rubber band is next haha. Seriously though. These outlanes are killers

#11197 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Your next mod..
[quoted image]

And then I drill a mini post between the flippers

#11258 2 years ago

For the players that regularly average games over 10 million….

When in 2ball booster multi balls, are you playing slowly or just go ham? Meaning do you try to catch and cradle the balls and aim for every jackpot?

Obviously the more balls in play the faster you gotta flip.

I feel like I need to focus and play in control more, especially with this game more so than others, as I am aiming and shooting on the fly 90% of the time. Looks like jackpots are very important when it comes to song levels

#11389 2 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Does no one make an apron monitor for GnR? I lose more balls during MB because I’m glancing up at the flipping PF monitor! (And on the main monitor on “It’s So Easy”, but for different reasons).
Apron monitor(s) would be so much easier to glance at! Come on modders! Take my money!

There was a guy a while back that posted a pic of a separate tv he was using as a topper that had the playfield monitor displaying on it. I’ll post a pic I took of his explanation. Still a bit confused as I haven’t looked at mine yet but can’t be difficult.

I’m sure you could find a small 4” lcd monitor that you could stick on the apron. Might need someone to 3D print a casing for it.

6DA1CD31-ED87-4BD5-B537-5DCBAEE90200 (resized).jpeg6DA1CD31-ED87-4BD5-B537-5DCBAEE90200 (resized).jpeg
#11406 2 years ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

I turned on the pin this morning (error message and red on the switch), made a few games, now is no longer displayed errors in the switch overview, strange. I have done nothing.
I will keep an eye on this, thanks for the tips.

Sometimes if a switch doesn’t register after a certain number of games it will show up in the error report upon boot up. It’s the games way of showing you a potential issue. Once the switch gets activated the error goes away

#11407 2 years ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

I have when I bought black mirror plates and coloured plastic protectors installed at the same time. Looks very cool.
[quoted image]

Looks great. What kind of scoop protector is that? Doesn’t appear to be a cliffy

#11427 2 years ago

First thing that anyone should do when they get the game is to go through and put 3/4” plastic washers under every post they can find. You should order 30 of them. If you do this preventive measure I think it’s safe to say at this point, based on people playing over 1,000 games since adding the washers, that your playfield will be perfectly fine. Fingers crossed of course

#11600 2 years ago

Anyone know what the Fog switch does on the upper playfield?

I’m still looking for the Special

For those that bought mirror blades that fit perfect, where did you buy them?

I added a Polk subwoofer yesterday and wow what a difference!

#11634 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

You guys just using alligator clips for a sub, or does jjp have an actual rca out jack somewhere in the cab for sub wires?

My LE cab speaker had secondary male connections. So I took 14 gauge speaker wire and crimped on female connectors. Hooked onto the cab speaker and to the speaker level inputs on the sub. Best $120 I’ve ever spent. Now the songs are fuller and you can set your bass how you like it

#11649 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

The album modes are awesome, well the 3 that are coded. The only problem with them is the points they award. The modes are tough to complete and the reward just isn’t worth it. Completing an album mode should award 10M points minimum, right now it’s like 500k... that is literally all that needs to be changed...

That’s why they suck….crappy scoring

#11701 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

After installing my new top magnet coil from JJP I played one game and the magnet grabbed the ball perfectly. Once.
It has never grabbed it again.
I put the game in coil test mode and when I hit the start button the magnet will repel the ball but it does not grab it.
Is the normal?
When during a game should this magnet be active?
My old broken coil would not do anything in the coil test mode so at least this one is doing something.
Just wish it would grab the ball during a game like I know it should.

I believe the magnet should be active whenever you need to collect Axel

#11732 2 years ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I hate asking such a noob question but I can't seem to find this documented anywhere on here. What size rubber do you suggest for the outlane posts?
I'm getting a lot of drains on that left side and wanted to test adding a small rubber to the currently bare middle outlane, but not sure what size to order. Every time I guess and buy I end up spending $7 in shipping for a .07 cent part, so figured I'd do the more sensible thing and ask the experts this time around!

You can increase the size of the outlane post rubbers to 7/64. No rubber should be in the post in the middle in lane

#11747 2 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hello Fellas
Well just powered up my new LE and am very pleased thus far. Stunning game!! Couple quick questions please…. I had to slightly bend the “catch” that skids down into the rectangular hole in the lock bar assembly for the playfield as it just wasn’t getting there. Not much but a little. Don’t know if anyone else has faced this. I am guessing that the foam in the back of the cab keeps the playfield very tight?!
Also I have two wires that got fatter somehow at the very back of the playfield. Please see picture. Looks like they were rubbing on something?? Any ideas fir remedy here? Liquid stuff they sell to repair wire insulation?? New harness?? Thank you guys. First nib and a little nervous. Haven’t even played the game yet. It was built 5/21 and appears to have the washer fixed in place and is running 1.21 code. Thank you guys!!
George

Liquid electrical tape would be perfect there. But definitely open a ticket and they will send you a new assembly

#11751 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

Does anybody offer an left ramp airball protector yet?

I assume you mean to prevent airballs from going down left outlane. Buy some 1/2” clear plastic corner molding from Home Depot or Lowe’s. Cut to desired length. Drill some holes that align with the screws already there. Piece of cake. Cost is $5

#11752 2 years ago

Double post. Deleted

#11866 2 years ago
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:

Placed my order for an LE in April, and am patiently awaiting delivery in Nov-Jan. Was able to pick up a TMNT premium for the family to shoot around on in the meantime (only a 1-pin home at the moment).
As I page through this forum it sounds like I will want to take preventative measures before playing my first ball to protect the art/playfield around some of the posts in the game. I have seen some of you use washers, others have actually received different posts (I believe from JJP), and have even seen the video on Facebook with the guy claiming the original posts were mis-engineered to handle the force of the ball knocking into them.
This is a grail game for my wife and I which we plan on keeping in our home for many, many years. During the pandemic, we put over 5,000 games on our first pin (JP pro) before trading it for an AIQ. We love to play these games, and do not expect them to remain looking pristine after so much use. What I would love to try and avoid however is big chucks of the playfield splintering near these posts in our first 100 games.
Given that our game will likely see heavy use in the coming years, what is the best strategy for trying to prevent these playfield issues from occurring? I am hoping that JJP figures out something in the factory that my later build might benefit from, but would like to be prepared anyway. Sincerely appreciate any and all recommendations.
Happy flipping!

There are really only 3 posts that are the trouble spots. Put washers under all the posts you can get to, 25 or so, get a cliffy scoop protector and I’m sure you will be fine. It’s a great game and you will love it. Oh and add an external sub

#11876 2 years ago

That came out great!

#11909 2 years ago

So I found something interesting. In settings there was a way to award an extra ball after a certain amount of G N R lane completions made. Default was zero. I changed it to 8. This resulted in several patches becoming unavailable including at least Fender, Vater and Gibson. There were likely others missing.

I changed the setting back to zero and thankfully they are back. Not sure if that’s a bug or what.

#11962 2 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

So who has already done the DYI under cabinet lighting? What do you think of the result?

I tried it and not sure what I did wrong but my hotrails and new Leds were not working at all. It freaked me out so I disconnected everything and all is back to normal. Phew. I could not for the life of me figure out what I did wrong as I am pretty good when it comes to low voltage Leds/wiring.

So now I am running the addressable Leds off a music controller and it works great.

#11964 2 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

Mattyk So I assume the under cabinet lighting is not in sync color and pluse wise with your hot rails? If so, how do you think that compares to if it would have been in sync?

That’s right it is not in sync. But honestly I am very pleased with how it came out. I doubt I would be any more satisfied if it was tied to the hotrails. If I can add a video I will

#11968 2 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

Mattyk a video would be great! In the meantime do you have a link to your music controller and did you hard wire the sound input from the game through a 3.5 mm plug or similar or instead does the controller pickup ambient sound from it's microphone input? Thanks!

Hopefully this video works. Here is a link to the controller. It pics up should through its internal mic. I have it plugged in using the same surge protector the OP used so it turns on and off with the pin

ALITOVE WS2812B WS2811 WS2815 LED Controller Music Sync Bluetooth App Control by iOS Android for WS2812 WS2813 SK6812 WS2801 Dream Color Addressable LED Strip Matrix Panel Pixel Light, Mic/AUX Input https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H15ZC8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6EJ902KAYXDS0WEZ1G92

#12012 2 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Success! An LCD on the apron is incredible! I see so much more information now without having to look way up at the back corner - how many shots remaining for band members, shots remaining for song mb objectives, number of switch hits left during ignite the flames, etc, etc.
I have a few details to work out still - the oem PF LCD does NOT work with an HDMI splitter (at least not the splitters I’ve tried), so I haven’t been able to run them both at the same time. The aftermarket LCD works fine with the splitter though - I have another LCD coming that I plan to swap out with the oem LCD in order to run both.
The current LCDs I’m working with are TN panels - it would be nice to find cheap IPS panels that would offer better viewing angles. The TN panel is fine on the apron, but not sure how it will be on the PF.
A couple of pics:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Any chance you would be able to take some pics of the install and links to the parts you used? I think this came out great

Someone a while back said they used a dvi to hdmi adapted. Not sure if the dvi video out was on the playfield monitor or somewhere on the board.

#12016 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I'm waiting when Damonator gets both apron and playfield LCD to work simultaneously .. then I'm in.

There was guy that had a larger monitor being used as topper that duplicated the playfield monitor. He had no issues running both so it’s doable. I think I found the 7” lcd damonator was using. Ships from China

#12019 2 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

So I have been experimenting in parallel with damonator. I got my replacement 7in lcd today, but still had issues getting both to boot up when the machine is power up. I can get 1 to work, and trick it by plugging in second monitor after boot, but so far no luck with both hooked up when powering on. I assume it's a hdcp issue, and will continue trying things. [quoted image]

I saw that monitor but looks like hiding the wires may be difficult since they come out the top. Damonator’s connects via a ribbon cable to the controller board underneath the playfield. Looks like a clean install.

Are you using an hdmi splitter? Is there any outputs on the board?

#12029 2 years ago

So about the warranty….when spotlights were breaking and they were sending replacements was that covered under a prior warranty that is no longer in place?

Are those that purchased the game months ago grandfathered in to the “old” warranty language?

#12039 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

All I can give you is my opinion, which is that prior to May there was a more comprehensive, yet limited warranty, and so anything shipped prior to May should be under that warranty. It's not when you ordered it's when it was shipped and arrived to you I believe.
But I'd like to think that any company that knew there was a valid issue such as spotlights would continue to honor that. However we know JJP is not any company. So I think everything is just a case by case basis. That's what it appears anyway. It also appears that as time goes on they're tightening the grip on the position of you're on your own.
Fortunately from the late zaphX, I recall there are methods to sourcing your spotlight servos, and broken parts needed can be "printed" from 3D printers (thingyverse.com ?). So I think JJ is sending the message loud and clear, that as of pins shipped starting May 2021, they want to focus only on initial task of building and shipping the pin and basically code updates, with a limited warranty only covering: 1. Printed circuit boards (game logic) for Sixty (60) Days and 2. LCD monitor for Two Hundred Seventy (270) Days.

Thanks. This makes sense to me but who knows with JJP. I’ve stocked up on some extra servos and a buddy of mine printed the linkages so I’m hoping I’ll be good in the event that JJP will not replace.

My distributor said everything was under warranty for a year. I never checked the actual JJP warranty language until I read the “new” language which is pretty much useless after 60 days.

Damn good game though

#12052 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I wish the song patience could be permanently unlocked if you beat the song or hit certain objectives. I like that it’s available as a patch at least, but would prefer it be like getting to end of the line on Metallica, and permanently opening it up. Just a thought.

Check in the settings. I saw that song listed in there and thought you could change the way it was you locked.

#12053 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Check in the settings. I saw that song listed in there and thought you could change the way it was you locked.

I just checked. In game settings under patches you can change how many gnr lane completions until patience is unlocked. Default is zero

#12067 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

guys with shakers, yay or nay?

Hell yes

#12080 2 years ago
Quoted from GymRatt:

Oh how nice, the sharpest tool in the shed has arrived! Unfortunately I wasn't detailed enough for the ones with a 4th grade education. "Disty, most orders, longest line theory" WHAT THE ACTUAL FU%K is That?
I am not referencing any one particular distributor. I would suggest going back and reading all 241 pages of this thread and you might have a better understanding of what I am getting at. If you have read it. Read it again and again till you can retain the information! For while a lot of discussion was which distributors get stock first. Who should I order from and so on. Being a NEWBE on here you wouldn't understand.
No one really knows who gets what from JJP or when JJP ship out orders to distributors. Ask any distributor. They will tell you how in the dark they were and still are on when order were shipped and how many units per shipment. Why do you think so many are still bitching and complaining about when they placed their order and still waiting. Oh wait, guess you missed that discussion too. Doesn't mater the size or volume of the dealer. I went with my local dealer which is one of the largest distributors. Just because a distributor is a large high volume dealer doesn't have any bearing on who gets what when. My point in my post was people in this thread months ago were receiving orders they placed many weeks after mine."DIFFERENT DISTRIBUTORS" OMG can't leave that critical bit of info out. Sharp tool will loose it again! These other orders just had a distributor that were receiving orders quicker and most likely didn't have as long of a waiting list to work through as my distributor did. My original delivery time was around Thanksgiving, then Christmas, then January then the distributor said spring. Sure you don't have to dig to far to find MANY others that were contently updated with delays from the distributor. The distributor had very little information from JJP for the delays and when next shipments were coming. Again, read back into this thread read about guys pissing and moaning about distributors not having any updates or info. Lots of guys turned to this thread in hopes to figure out production dates, production runs and time lines. Lots of speculation comments, but JJP kept things pretty quiet which infuriated many at times. So back to your "THEORY" point. No theory. All pretty damn accurate on how my order went as well as hundreds of others that can vouch for a similar experience. Lack of information the distributor passed on to me which was very little most of the time cause JJP wouldn't talk much about any specifics or details. This situation effected ALL distributors big and small. Next time I will be more specific for the educationally challenged. I could bring in COVID, but that would just overload what few normal functioning brain cells are left. Yes Covid did play a big roll in delays and production runs. Not therory. Its FACT.

Geeze man. Go find Jesus or something

#12100 2 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNavidad:

I was wondering that as well. I know Patience is tied to a patch and must be unlocked in order to be played. So does the song need to be unlocked each game? Or, once unlocked, is it available for each subsequent play? Based on the post above, there's no way to permanently unlock it......which sucks!

In game settings it looks like you could unlock patience after x number of gnr lane completions. So theoretically you could unlock the song after one patch collection of something other than the Lies Album

#12115 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

My game is May 21 build..
Not played a game yet- game is up on its legs and I’ve put it in jukebox mode..
Over the next week or so:
Replace posts with larger WPC posts
Put washers under posts
Check coil stops
Install Cliffys
What else do I need to check?
Magnets?
Game arrives with silicone sling rubbers and upper playfield has silicone flipper rubber..
but lower normal rubbers..

I’d change all rubbers to Titans while you are doing the washers and cliffy. Also change the flipper rubbers. Go through under the playfield and on the cabinet playfield guide rails and use a nut driver and screwdriver to check some random screws and nuts to make sure it’s all tight underneath.

Make sure all connections are good on the boards.

Then play the hell out of it.

#12165 2 years ago

I’d like to hear from a few people on the first 3-4 patches they go for when they start the game. Do you always focus on these same patches?

Prior to getting these patches, do you prioritize locking balls or letting them fall back down to light the gnr inserts?

I’m focusing first and foremost on fender, vater and duff skull before I start locking balls

#12167 2 years ago

Yeah I’ve read those. Just wondering for if people have changed up their strategies at all. Also trying to generate some gameplay discussion

#12170 2 years ago
Quoted from mozach:

I go for those same 3. I've played around with all of them, but I keep coming back to these. They're also pretty mindless to set up. Fender before launching ball one, then just hit the center button 5 times after collecting. That takes you to Vater and Duff is next. I prioritize collecting them over locking balls. I think they're that important. But I'd love to hear from eskaybee or someone who's played a lot more than me to hear other opinions.
Here's something to try. Yesterday I was just trying to get to Desert demo to see the mode. I chose November Rain and wound up getting a 25m jp without really trying. I had those patches and a 60 second ball save timer. I had 2 really good band frenzies. Of course I tried again later in the day top it, but couldn't get anything going. But I think with that mode being just switch hits, you could go for band members and center spinner and put up huge points.

My best scores have also come from November Rain. I think there is at least one other song that is based on switch hits but I forgot which one. I prioritize those patches over locks and also over amp multi ball. Not sure if that is the best strategy though as booster multiballs are important for song level and may even result in higher scores than band frenzy because of that. Not sure though.

#12173 2 years ago

I was thinking it would be so cool if there was a way for them to add a new mode. I would call it “crowd surfing.”

It starts by ripping the left spinner x number of times and then the mode starts (like disco mode in DP). A lit shots starts at the left spinner, and once you hit it the next shot to the right is lit. You keep progressing over to the far right shot under the flipper to toss the “surfer” over the guardrail and collect a bazillion points.

Lol that would mix it up and add a new dimension to the game. And have it be available to start anytime except song modes. I can dream I guess

#12175 2 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Nah. This game is so good because it’s unique. It would take it down a peg if they just started copying features and ideas from other pins.

Yeah everyone’s has their opinion on what they like. I do love the game but I feel it kinda needs something to keep if from being a one trick pony. Maybe once the scoring is figured out that will be sufficient. It’s still early

#12189 2 years ago
Quoted from mozach:

You mean On the Road mode doesn’t do it for you? . I bet most people who play don’t even know when they’re in that mode

Nope doesn’t do it for me. You hit a couple of orbits and you’re in On the Road. Objective is to hit more orbits. Same thing. If it was a legitimate separate mode with different objectives I guess that would be one thing. As of now this game is all about keeping multi ball alive.

For someone that only has a 2-3 game collection I need more if this will stay bolted to the floor. Don’t get me wrong it’s awesome. But it’s only unique because it’s points based versus progression. It plays more like a 90’s wpc in that regard. Which is very cool. Needs a video mode or something else to shoot for to round it out a bit more. Only my opinion though. I don’t regret my purchase at all

#12195 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Fender seems to be the best and always the first one I go for, typically. Vader and Duff seem like the next best as they spot 2 members for frenzy, Duff and Richard (left ramp + inside spinner). But I’ll throw a wrinkle into this. I’ve been skipping Vader early on (until I’m ready for my 4th sponsor patch to light extra ball), reason being, not having Richard (the inner spinner) auto spotted for frenzy gives a better chance at using that shot with fender to light one of the harder to get band members, mainly AXL.
…and so the onion peels even further.

Ooh that’s a good tip. I like it

#12217 2 years ago
Quoted from dug:

Anyone have a solution?

I have to adjust mine every so often. I just use a nut driver to loosen the two scoop screws, turn it to the left and retighten. No need to remove anything

#12317 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

I got a broken attachment to one of my spotlights from my servo. Anyone know where to get a replacement, JjP hasn’t responded in two weeks

There is a post here you can try searching for that has the 3D print file. You just need to find someone with a printer.

When mine broke I used jb weld to glue it back together and it has held up. I would paint the jb weld lightly on the other linkage if it was me as it definitely strengthens it

#12328 2 years ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

NIB yesterday and this happens;
[quoted image]
I am asking the distributor for a replacement, any idea it it can be fixed?
Also can I disconnect it so I can at least play the game?

Pull that white shit off and try either a new piece of heat shrink or even some white thread plumbers tape. Just a small amount and push the assembley back in. Hopefully that holds while you wait for a replacement.

Assuming of course the servo is still good.

First thing I would do though is start the game and shut it off. That will center the servo. Or you can do this through calibration in settings. Then make sure the spotlight is in the neutral position before you reassemble.

#12332 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

A screw holds it to the gear. Not sure your idea will work.
LTG : )

Yeah you’re right. I forgot about the screw

#12366 2 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Is the game light on Bass? Mine game seems kinda pitchy if that makes sense

Add a Polk 10” external sub. It’s the best $110 you can spend. Really improves the sound quality.

The cabinet speaker has a second set of male terminals so just attach the speaker wires to those and then to the speaker level inputs on the sub.

#12442 2 years ago

I’ll start off by saying I do not consider myself very good at pinball, especially this game. But today I finally heeded advice from this forum and adjusted my flippers to run perfectly parallel with the guides. It was really only my right flipper that needed the slightest adjustment. Now I am hitting that left ramp on demand. Previously I would brick more ramp shots than I’d make. Now I am making it MUCH more often.

First three games after the adjustment I broke my previous high score each time. All games over 40 million. In my third game I was one mode away from Not in this Lifetime.

I wish I did this sooner. Hopefully everyone that has a hard time scoring takes a look at their flippers. My right flipper is now pointing at the top of of the skeleton knuckle

21
#12459 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I think those posts are there for a reason though; I predict the rollover switches will get bent if you remove them.

Welcome back

#12473 2 years ago

For those that downloaded the beta and played desert demolition. Was it worth the wait or do you think it is still unfinished?

#12553 2 years ago

Well shit. After about 500 plays after installing the PETG washers I am now seeing pooling in two places. The left ball guide by left spinner and the bare post inlane by the amp lights.

The inlane post had significant pooling and playfield paint was cracked. I removed the post and washer and tried to flatten with the iron. Although this removed the ripple it made a bit more of the paint chip away.

I covered the area with some Mylar and added a second silicone washer under the PETG and put the post back on. I’ll be keeping an eye on it. Shit

341B646A-F27E-4041-A33A-934CA8A09D0E (resized).jpeg341B646A-F27E-4041-A33A-934CA8A09D0E (resized).jpeg6C326646-A55F-42BD-AA94-FC9306594C75 (resized).jpeg6C326646-A55F-42BD-AA94-FC9306594C75 (resized).jpeg8D8F2B6C-A6AA-4EE4-BFCE-140F1987F839 (resized).jpeg8D8F2B6C-A6AA-4EE4-BFCE-140F1987F839 (resized).jpegCFA997A2-7E95-4A75-93E0-76C84E49B7F0 (resized).jpegCFA997A2-7E95-4A75-93E0-76C84E49B7F0 (resized).jpeg
#12555 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

So sorry to see this. I feel for you and hope everything turns out OK. Shitty feeling, I have had it a few times now.
Could you please let us know the build date of your machine?
Thanks and all the best.

Thanks. April 2021 build.

#12562 2 years ago
Quoted from hool10:

Oh man I'm sorry to see that. Did you iron your playfield and then install the PETG washers in the first place? I'm hesitant to say it but surely PETG isn't digging into the playfield??

I did not have any pooling here prior to putting the plastic washer. It stayed perfect for a long time. The other day I saw the pooling.

#12565 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

How tight did you torque that post down? Hard to imagine these petg sinking in unless it was over torqued.

Not crazy tight. Just snug. That post doesn’t have a rubber so my guess is that it was the vibrations of the ball hitting it that caused the pooling

#12567 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I honestly think the Silicone washers are the only thing that will work because they are softer than the clear. Probably the "gold standar" is silicone under PETG, but then the posts get very high. Might be OK for areas where the height doesnt matter, but for other areas such as slings, the height affects the rubber height which in turn affects the sling kicker arm.
Originally on my Wonka I used Silicone and PETG, but felt it was overkill and went back to just silicone. Time will tell I guess.
I'd be hesitant putting mylar over damaged areas as removing it could bring up more art.
In the end this might be like Covid - we are all just going to have to learn to live with it.

I was thinking the same thing about the Mylar. I just didn’t want to risk any paint cracking beyond the diameter of the washer. That would be game over

#12594 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

First off this situation completely sucks period! As for repair this is just my opinion and nothing more! I personally think the silicone option is the worst solution. I think because it’s soft and pliable it literally grabs the clear coat and Pulls it off the playfield! Almost multiplies the tear strength as the rubber acts like an adhesive spring. How many posts have we seen where people go this route and it Still happens. Mylar on the other hand like pinball companies used for Many years before this never had an issue in fact it was the primary strategy to overcome weak Playfield coatings. I have used simple Mylar rings to repair over 50 games now and have yet to have a single one with issues later. Mylar is a rigid patch that bonds the problem area as one surface meaning the entire area would need to lift up at one time. Like a bandaid it keeps the wound sealed and bonded together. I see very few people that have done simple Mylar, then a rigid washer note the issue returning. In my opinion I feel like we are simply overcompensating the issue and multiplying the problem. Again Completely just my opinion nothing more but this horrible situation just seems to be getting worse. Shame on JJP for not at the very least halting the line to stop this train wreck. Any washer is going to move, period. You need to bond the surface below it so it doesn’t!

I am going to put a piece of Mylar under the bare post at the guitar lock. What you said makes sense

#12715 2 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

So I should be picking my LE up a bit later tonight. Is the Key Post on bulletproofing the NIB still pretty accurate? Any other fixes that may not be in that post that should be pointed out?

Only tweak I would add if it’s not there is to put some 3/4” or 1” Mylar circles under each plastic washer

#12724 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Well shit. After about 500 plays after installing the PETG washers I am now seeing pooling in two places. The left ball guide by left spinner and the bare post inlane by the amp lights.
The inlane post had significant pooling and playfield paint was cracked. I removed the post and washer and tried to flatten with the iron. Although this removed the ripple it made a bit more of the paint chip away.
I covered the area with some Mylar and added a second silicone washer under the PETG and put the post back on. I’ll be keeping an eye on it. Shit
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Here’s an update. I removed just about all PETG washers to add some Mylar underneath. I had three areas where the washer left a circle imprint in the clear. Not pooling and nothing dramatic but a slight indent. Mind you I did not go crazy over torquing these suckers down.

I needed to use the iron in the spot by the left ball guide at the orbit. I did have pooling around the PETG washer here. Worked well. I added Mylar under just about every post where I added a washer and also installed the longer posts and lock nuts at the mini posts behind the pop bumpers. I bought the gnr kit from pinball life for $10. It came with the black washers but I did not use them. I was curious to see what they were made of. Just hard plastic.

I feel much better now that the Mylar is there. Time will tell how the playfield holds up but I should have done that in the beginning. It’s invisible unless you REALLY look for it. I’d recommend waxing before doing the Mylar in case you ever need to remove it.

Also, if anyone has trouble hitting the left ramp don’t be afraid to lower your flippers so they are in parallel with the inlanes. Makes a world of difference and now I can see how people put up monster scores.

#12761 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Matty - keep a very_ close eye on the mylar. This was tried on TNA and the mylar came away from the playfield quite easily.
Neil.

Thanks will do

Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, I recommend using rubbing alcohol to strip the PF wax first so the mylar stays on. Waxing before the mylar kind of defeats the purpose.

Damn I though that waxing first was the direct procedure. I’ll keep an eye on it

#12791 2 years ago
Quoted from Nevus:Request from an average (at best) pinball player here. I wish the settings would allow you to unlock Patience from the beginning.
I like the game okay, but I clunk around for 5 minutes or so, often starting a song on ball 2 or 3. It’s unlikely I will then complete objectives to get to a song I have to unlock.
I really appreciate all of the included songs. Like any casual fan, there are only a handful I wish to hear frequently. Patience is one of them.

Check settings. I believe you can make it so the song is available after x number of gnr lane completions. So maybe you can make it available after you collect one patch (one that is not the Lies patch)

#12808 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Too bad because the SE is the better game (in my opinion)

It’s definitely easier that’s for sure since you can lock balls and light the gnr lane with one shot

#12914 2 years ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Just spent 6 hours over 2 days installing full cliffys and a petg washer under almost every post. Hope it works.

You may want to put a piece of Mylar under some of the washers at the problem posts. Just to be safe

#13033 2 years ago
Quoted from Sako-TRG:

Disgusting price IMO.
This should be positioned much lower for those with documented issues via their Distro or direct.
Cashing in on customers misfortune. Opportunity missed for JJP to do the right thing.
Price + shipping international then cost of actual fitting all components? Do me a favour..... oh you’re not.
Heighway men....... lol....
Daylight robbery.

If they were fully populated at that price and available to those that had issues that would have been JJP’s chance to save face

#13037 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

As a person who bought a spare CE playfield for Wonka at $1100 I think it's a pretty killer price.

How long did it take you to swap the playfields? I would think Wonka is more involved than GNR

1 week later
#13364 2 years ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

Hi,
do you mean the place below the bumper where the post is? There the ball got stuck with me more often.
A great solution is (once again) by agima2000.
A simple 3D print, which is plugged onto the post.
Here is the file from agima2000: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4835017
It looks like this.[quoted image]

I use this and it works great. Never had an issue with a ball getting stuck

#13368 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

If I were to get one made from a vendor online, what material should I request?

100% infill? I had a buddy print it for me.

#13412 2 years ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Preciate it guys!
I do really enjoy the tinkering on and improving the machine.
But I don't want it be FIXING things all the time.

I hear you. It seems I have to adjust the scoop hood every so often to keep it firing at the middle of the left flipper. Also feel like I’m constantly adjusting the left and right ball guides at the orbits so the ball doesn’t come around and hit the slings.

The latest tweak I’m trying to figure out is the ball coming off the plunge has all of a sudden started hitting the top of the right slingshot. It bounces fine over to the left flipper but only 50% of the time does it travel past the right sling down to my right flipper. I haven’t played with pitch or moved the machine so something needs tweaking, just haven’t figured it out yet. Gnr has been pretty needy.

#13435 2 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Trying to find details on scoop adjustment to stop sdtm.
Any advice? Thanks

Nut driver will work better than a Phillips to loosen and retighten the screws to adjust the scoop. I did not need to remove the upper playfield

#13495 2 years ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Errr so removing the upper playfield to install cliffys… step 5 of FF’s excellent instructions ask me to trace all the wires coming off the upper playfield and unplug them where they end up. Is this easier than it appears, because everything is ziptied so beautifully down here, and the wires snake all over themselves, and I’m intimidated. Just looking for some courage perhaps?

I never needed to unplug anything. I just snipped a few zip ties and pulled a little more slack. I had enough room to install the cliffy. Some of those connectors seemed a bit to tough for my taste to disconnect

#13695 2 years ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

I threw the plunger and it was smooth, but only when the pf was up, so I’ll investigate that better tomorrow, thanks!
It really only took a little downward pressure with my finger to make it lightly grind/bind. Such a simple mechanism, probably something will be obvious when I look at it with new eyes.

Maybe simple like a loose screw. Hopefully

#13709 2 years ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

Fixed my sticking upper playfield flipper... I don't remember there being any posts on here about it before, so here's a quick synopsis and what I did to fix it... thanks zaphX for putting me on the right track and helping me through.
Basically, I noticed during gameplay that it didn't look like my upper pf flipper was returning all the way "home," and then sometimes it stuck all the way up, and I even got a ball stuck in the cutout beneath it. I raised the PF and the flipper traveled free and easy, until I put a little pressure on the top of the flipper (mimicking gravity), when it stuck/binded. zaphX suggested I check the coil plunger, and that indeed turned out to be the issue. The weight of the flipper and shaft put enough downward pressure on the linkage to make the plunger askew as it tried to travel in and out of the coil, causing the drag.
Tried just lifting the shaft some more, but the weight was still there of course. Looking closely, I noticed that when I slid the flipper shaft down as far as it would go without dragging the playfield, there was still a small gap between the sleeve on the flipper assembly (which comes a few inches out of the playfield and to the bottom of the upper PF) and a spacer sleeve that sits on top of it, meaning that unless the flipper were lower and sitting right on top of that spacer sleeve, the flipper isn't being supported by anything but the pinch clamp on the flipper assembly... and that weight being on the pinch clamp was the reason it putting pressure on the linkage and plunger. I use too many words.
So I just needed to make the weight rest on the spacer sleeve so it didn't torque the shaft and put lateral pressure on the flipper linkage. Luckily, I have about 6,000 PETG washers sitting around now, and they are about the right thickness to let the flipper rest on the shaft spacer. I took a 3/4" PETG washer and drilled out the hole with a 5/8 bit, which made it big enough to fit around the shaft. Then I just loosened the pawl nut, spread the pinch clamp a little with a screwdriver, removed the flipper and shaft, slid the washer on it (3/4 inch is the perfect size for the radius of the flipper), slid the spacer back on, and inserted it right back down. The height was perfect, I just retightened the pawl nut to get that pinch clamp semi-tight, made sure I had a little vertical play on the shaft, put the flipper in its position over the playfield, and tightened the pawl nut the rest of the way down. Swings free and easy now, returns to "home" without issue, and I'm back in business.
I hope no one else has such an issue, but if you do, it was pretty easy to deal with. PM me if I didn't make enough sense and you need help.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Gee I thought you always wanted a bit of space between the flipper bushing and the flipper bat. That’s what the spacers are for that you use during a rebuild. You want to have a little play when you pull up on the flipper bat. I guess that looks like a different set up with a different kind of bushing. Glad it works now for you

#13812 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The part he circled was a plastic. Are we going to freak out about washer marks on those too, now?

Drink some water….count to 10…

#13911 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

They may SEEM random at first, but they are not:
- LIGHTS: light target on upper playfield
- PYRO: Pyro target/sling behind Slash's hat
- AMP: Left outer inlane spots
- CROWD: Skill shots and the under-flipper shot

Yes but all can be randomly started except for Crowd. For the most part anyway

#13912 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Don't know why anyone should care. I don't feel like i have to defend the game from those who repeat stupid things they've heard elsewhere.
Houdini suffers from a terrible reputation, mostly from people who've never really played it.

I don’t get it either. Is also really strange the game gets so much hate from people that have never played it or only played a few games.

#13995 2 years ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Noticed this while I was looking over everything. The pooling has moved outside of the washer. Maybe I tightened this one a little too much? The rest seem to be good.
So... What BAD is going to come from this if anything? And, do I just use the ironing method, get some mylar circles and "solve" it that way?
Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Same thing happened to me in one area. I ironed it smooth, put down a Mylar circle and reinstalled the washer. Hoping for the best. I don’t know if over or under tightening is the problem. Probably under tightening is worse. Seems like the movement of the post causes the buckling

#14005 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

From what I've heard , I would heat it up and flatten it , and even a hair dryer can work , apparently .
I've read conflicting stories about the Mylar circles .

I think the Mylar would help to keep it from tearing. I doubt it will stop the pooling. But I agree that the pooling should be ironed flat or eventually it might tear or crack.

#14192 2 years ago

Nice job PinMonk!!

#14215 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Sounds like these are gonna break no matter what you do. Can you turn them off in the settings to avoid them breaking?

If they break you just aim them straight so you still get the Led lights while you wait for the replacements. I doubt servos were meant for this kind of constant stop and go action

#14223 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Can you turn off the servo though? Sounds like this would be a nice option, even for just troubleshooting

I don’t think so but have yet to check.

God damn !! As soon as these servo issues started popping up I said to myself “I hope this doesn’t jinx it like it did last time.” Well soon after the prior post I made I played 3 games and right vertical servo quit. Linkage appears fine.

Asked for a replacement. This totals 3 failed spotlights so far (4 failed servos)

These were the white hobby kings

#14255 2 years ago
Quoted from adrock:

As someone who has had two spotlight replacements myself… I do think the breakages will continue unless you do the “fix”. The issue is that in certain orientations, the arm hits the spot and puts pressure on it until it eventually breaks. I’m not sure how changing the servo would help this problem. Just cut the end off that hits the spot like in the bulletin. Takes 10 minutes. Now there’s definitely no friction on the arm.

My right vertical servo broke 3 games after doing that modification. Servo failed. Linkage was fine.

#14301 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Increasing the pitch and dropping the flippers a tad will help with that. But yea, overall it’s not lightning speed like a stern; but there’s A LOT of action and very little stop n go. Skill shot is actually cool and while the exit design is pretty poor, it’s much better once you tweak it so it consistently drops to the right flipper.
My biggest gripe on the game right now (which is fairly minor) is being rewarded a powerchord jackpot usually results in draining one or three balls because they all collide and go to the outlanes or sdtm. I’d like it if they could put in a powerchord jackpot ball saver then just release all the balls at once. Either that, Or stagger them better.

Any tips on tweaking the skill shot exit? Mine used to always go to right flipper, now it will often hit the top of the right sling and go to the left flipper. I’ve tried a few adjustments but nothing has worked yet

1 week later
#14663 2 years ago

So for my broken vertical servo, JJP is now sending just the servo instead of the whole spotlight assemble. I guess it’s cool because they aren’t asking for the other unit back. But you will need to calibrate it and put it together correctly (aiming the light properly when screwing in the linkage) before turning the game on. Shipping was very fast though. Only took a week

D41D1704-48AC-4212-8C37-FAE90506BBA5 (resized).jpegD41D1704-48AC-4212-8C37-FAE90506BBA5 (resized).jpeg

#14664 2 years ago
Quoted from RTS:

Anybody know where this little rubber piece belongs?
I saw it rolling down from center/leftish of playfield during a game. Can't see where it came from. [quoted image]

Does it go on the apron by the GNR symbol?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#14681 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I wouldn't bother with the Hobby King servos, I've had 5 of them burn out.. Complete junk
Been using the EMAX 3054 with no issue

To be fair you only switched two days ago

I have a couple of the emax ones I bought a while ago. Might throw those in

#14696 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I did the complete switch a couple days ago, but I was using a rebuilt assembly with 2 EMAX servos for a while now, at least 3 months, with no issue on those 2

Good to know!

#14764 2 years ago
Quoted from DaddyManD:

Just found this searching as having the same issue. Right flipper is clearly angled slightly up towards top of PF rather than being perfectly level. I know how to adjust flippers but just wasn't sure if this was intended for shot geometry so was hesitant to move the flipper. But sounds like JJP is recommending adjusting so the flippers are perfectly in line with ball guides?

I paid close attention to where I was missing my left ramp shot. I was bricking a lot off the right stand up. I adjusted the flippers downward, a little below parallel with guides and now I am scoring much better. Definitely helped when I was in multi ball as I can now more easily get balls locked in the guitar

#14770 2 years ago
Quoted from dschulpius:

I got my GNR a couple weeks ago. July Build Date.
I am having the exact same Center Scoop SDTM issue. First dozen games I didn't notice any of this but now it's SDTM each time the center scoop ejects.
I raised the flipper power only about 2 levels and now it's hitting just the tip of the left flipper (most of the time).
There seems to be no real solution other then try to get the scoop hood as left as possible and maybe stick a target foam on the right inside of the scoop hood. I still need to try that.
Has anyone had success in getting this scoop's eject to hit the left flipper?
This issue reminds me of my Star Trek 25 Annv's right eject scoop shooting the ball SDTM. I still havent found a way to fix that one. Ugh!

Take a nut driver and loosen the two hood screws a little. Move hood to left and tighten back up really good. This hopefully solves your problem. No need to remove upper pf

#14785 2 years ago
Quoted from deejaypee:

You must have some magical nut drivers.

That’s what she said

#14868 2 years ago

Pardon me if this is a stupid question, but is there any concern with the vibrations the pinwoofer system causes in regards to node boards in stern games? Not sure if JJP has node boards as well. Could the vibrations from the bass cause issues?

#14873 2 years ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

Not at all - this is a good question Mattyk . We've never had a report of an issue due to acoustical vibration and there are scores of our systems out there, and for years. As a reference Spooky and other manufacturers add powered amplifiers and speakers to their titles in the same way. Consider also that many titles have shaker motors which produce far greater mechanical vibration compared to a cabinet speaker that adds more bass. There is not so much happening that the legs skip off the floor et cetera. Just more bass added to the cabinet in the right amount. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the response. I didn’t even think of a shaker motor. Hopefully soon I’ll order your product. Too many awesome reviews for me to pass it up

#15064 2 years ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

Hi Zaphx. First of all, thanks so much for all your posts here and in the POTC owners thread, they have helped me a bunch!
Looks like I have the same Emax unit. The original servo was HK15148B. These both appear to be the same #’s you listed. Weird thing is that the emax gear is smaller than the HK for my plastic spotlight bracket. I put the emax gear into my bracket and it spins. The original HK unit fits tight and doesn’t spin. I have some Emax servos coming from hobby town as I got the emax servos in the attached pics from eBay. Not sure what’s up. I’m thinking I should go to some local hobby shops and bring the old stuff the match. None of the shops near my house have HK or EMax brands though. [quoted image][quoted image]

What if you put some heat shrink on the gear and then try to use it in the bracket? My original corona servos had heat shrink, the replacement white hobby kings did not

#15065 2 years ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

Hi Zaphx. First of all, thanks so much for all your posts here and in the POTC owners thread, they have helped me a bunch!
Looks like I have the same Emax unit. The original servo was HK15148B. These both appear to be the same #’s you listed. Weird thing is that the emax gear is smaller than the HK for my plastic spotlight bracket. I put the emax gear into my bracket and it spins. The original HK unit fits tight and doesn’t spin. I have some Emax servos coming from hobby town as I got the emax servos in the attached pics from eBay. Not sure what’s up. I’m thinking I should go to some local hobby shops and bring the old stuff the match. None of the shops near my house have HK or EMax brands though. [quoted image][quoted image]

I just compared a spare set of linkages with both the HK and emax. The emax spins as you said. Did you install them yet to see if it will work? Maybe the screw will hold it tight

#15075 2 years ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

I think that might hold it tight. Just putting a thin tissue on the gear and installing it into the bracket does create a somewhat tight fit.

Could also try some of that white plumbers thread tape

#15238 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I dont know what it is about that left ramp, but im the same. It's super wide so it should be easy.
Only thing I can think of is it's because of the obstructed view from all the metal sitting over the ramp.

You have to drop the flippers a bit. Do a little at a time until you can hit that ramp with ease. They are easy to adjust

#15301 2 years ago
Quoted from Shmilder:

I've never heard of having a machine where the flippers are set at different angles.

I kept them at the same angles. Lowered both. Makes a huge difference

#15388 2 years ago
Quoted from Beez:Question
My upper left concert light spun all the way around in circles unplugging it from the other back wall light? I’ve unwrapped it and re-connected it but haven’t turned the game back on yet … thoughts?

Plug that servo in by itself without having it connected to the bracket. Turn the game on and it will auto calibrate to center. Turn game off and connect the servo to the bracket. See if it works.

When mine did that the servo failed and I needed a replacement

#15670 2 years ago
Quoted from etr104:

Is it common to have your Upper PF Rubber come up in your test report as stuck open? If I remove the glass, I can manually activate the switch with ease (with both my finger and by swiftly rolling a ball). That particular rubber is way off to the left of the upper pf flipper, so I feel like any ball that travels over there will be travelling slowly so perhaps the leaf switch just needs to be adjusted?
Does this rubber affect gameplay at all much? I know there is an insert labeled 'FOG' next to that rubber, so that part of one of the modes?

I get that report every so often. That’s the Fog switch. I never shoot for it which is why it never gets hit. Anyone know what exactly that switch does or scores?

I’m still trying to find where the special is. I think it’s on the right outlane but it never lights up

#15672 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

I Believe FOG is your LIGHTS MB

No that is the target with the spotlight decal

#15834 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Cool, imma doin red too.. glad to see it.. black looks good too, I went back and forth before deciding stealth red.
Also I ordered a set of these cabinet protectors shown below in red.. I probably should have asked the forum first in case I wasted 15 bucks. Anyone used these?
[quoted image]

With the risk of causing wrinkles in the cabinet decal I would be hesitant to add these. I think my legs have felt protectors that came with the game. I could be wrong

#16099 2 years ago
Quoted from Greaseman:

Wow….have had my GnR LE for just about 2 weeks now and continue to be impressed. Saw on here there was a code update….connected via WiFi, code downloaded and installed, worked flawlessly.
Would be cool to get an email notification when a new code update drops (I registered my game)….guessing this isn’t an option with JJP?
p.s. my other pins are lonely….but too bad. I’ll get around to them again at some point.

Your game should tell you upon start up that an update is available

#16113 2 years ago
Quoted from RA77:

Without wanting to be negative, Slash solo is the most underwhelming mode for me so far.
I find all other modes to be amazing
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"66b82c8e4c0285508e06acf7af1a12fb92a64dea-1634168764-1800"};
//]]>

So many cool modes
Now if I could just play better
[quoted image][quoted image]

All modes need tweaking. I find myself always skipping them. They need to score better.

#16114 2 years ago

Duplicate

#16356 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Switch 33 is the one behind the rubber to the left of the fog insert on the upper mini playfield. In switch test mode, make sure it's registering when you barely hit the rubber with your finger. If it is, then it's probably just throwing the error because you're not getting up there and hitting it enough and it thinks it's broken.
[quoted image]

I get the alert for that switch all the time. I never aim for it. I usually try to lock a ball and then by accident I’ll hit it into the VUK. But I never aim for the fog switch. My luck it probably scores really well and that’s why my scores are so low lol

#16490 2 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

There should be a scorbit achievement for most hits on the cross target. Pretty sure I’d be the World Champion Cross Target Smasher. More specifically…. flipper — cross target — drain.
[quoted image]

Lower your flippers a tad and you will be nailing that ramp instead of clunking it off the targets

#16516 2 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Does this mean
1) flipper power
2) flipper angle (lower towards drain)
3) flipper bushing height
Thanks.

Sorry I should have been more clear. Lower the angle a bit (#2). I was bricking a lot of shots, especially during multi ball. After adjusting the angles I am hitting the left ramp much more often and also the orbits. Scores have definitely gone up and games are lasting longer.

Trade off is it will be more difficult to backhand the left ramp for easy patch collection but I accept the trade off. Game is more fun now

#16518 2 years ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

What about raise the left and lower the right ? I was going to try this tonight just for the hell of it .What’s your thoughts ?

I can’t stand to look at flippers that are uneven. But it’s entirely up to you and how you want to enjoy the game. I’ve been able to collect patches more often now because I can hit the ramp with my right flipper.

I am not typically known to play slow and in control. I just go ham on it. Probably why I don’t come close to scores that some people here put up

#16628 2 years ago

For pinwoofer should I get the KO or GT? The higher cost is not an issue. Just wondering if there is a sound difference when using it for this game.

#16655 2 years ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

Greetings Mattyk - great question!
Both the GT and the KO have the same final amplifier stage (power) and the same tone / level controls so your decision comes down to features and price.
The feature matrix comparing the two amps is shown below. The GT includes a pre-amp which has a gain control, auto-muting and a studio level line out. The GT pre-amp features are vital for older machines (i.e. vital for WPCx/Data East/Sega/Whitestar) but less necessary for newer titles (i.e. less necessary for Spike and JJP).
One might choose the GT over the KO because they want the immediate studio level line output to run externals such as a sub or satellite / stage monitors (there are some fanatical guys out there).
If you choose the KO you can always add externals with any of the array of aftermarket offerings out there, or we can set you up later on with whatever gadgets you need for this.
For most, the KO is a perfect match to meet their goals.
Hope that helps!
Thanks,
Dan
https://PinWoofer.com
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MST, Mon - Fri
[quoted image][quoted image]

thanks for the response! Hoping to order soon

#16710 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Anybody here tweak the outer orbit guide rails in order to get a clean loop flipper to flipper? Right now my left to right orbit works perfect with a good shot. If I hit a right to left orbit it nicks the left sling instead of hitting the flipper. I had to do this with IJ before wondering if anybody has done this and any tips.

Sometimes I have to adjust the ball guides on both orbits. For the left side, remove the wire ramp and left most plastic. You may need to remove the screws for the spinner. Loosen the first two nuts from Underneath that hold the guide. Push the guide in towards middle of playfield and then tighten the nuts. I’ve had to use some needle nose pliers to bend the guide in a bit as well. It’s a pain in the ass

#16745 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

One more question from the new guy , im at 6.8 ° at the flippers, what's optimal? And are you measuring at flips or mid field? Thx

At the flippers

#16844 2 years ago
Quoted from Nonox:

I just received emax es 3054 servos to replace the one of the vertical axis of my left spot.
First the screw from JJP doesn’t fit inside the servo
Has someone used those coming with the emax ? I tried but when I moved the arm, there isn’t this typical noise of servo mouvement
Second the upper part of the servos above the 2 fixations points is higher on the original one, so the arm is not touching the bracket of the spot
whereas with the emax, as the arm is fixed with the small screw on the servo, it is touching the spot bracket
So I don’t understand how it can have so many positive feedback on this emax model installation with the issues I just raised
Maybe I missed something ?
Thank you for your advice, support…

Use the screw that came with it. I could be mistaken but do you have to increase of the size of the hole in the bracket to accommodate the emax screw? If so that sucks as you are stuck with using the emax servos from here on out. Hopefully I’m wrong

#16847 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The emax screw is a tight fit but worked fine for me.
I haven't had to replace an emax servo yet but even if I do, the arm is held in place by the screw+threads in the crown...not the hole in the arm.

Good to know. I have a couple of emax on standby

#16871 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

That is super cool! P1 is almost me (October 28 1975) LOL!

Happy belated birthday!

#16883 2 years ago

I’m DADX on Scorbit. High scores slowly approaching 12m so I’m getting better.

I will say this….I would pay money if there was a callout when jackpots reach certain thresholds…1 million, 5 million etc. I don’t need Slash to call it out or anything, I’d be perfectly content if Chaka did the call outs

#16885 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I, too, would REALLY LIKE to have jackpot thresholds called out for when it's too hectic to glance up. 1, 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, etc. Maybe pinball_keefer can put it on his suggestions list for a future update.

I can’t tell you how many balls I’ve drained because I looked up at the screen only to see the damn skull burping at me. It could literally be just as impactful if not more of an update as letting us skip slash solo

#16889 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Risk vs Reward

Risk versus reward yada yada yada

#17128 2 years ago

Is it me or when you collect Axl’s patch (rose?) it makes it very hard to collect the extra ball because the magnet no longer engages?

#17342 2 years ago

I think once we get an update for better scoring in the album modes the game won’t seem so multi ball heavy since the modes will get played more. As it is now the game is a lot of rinse and repeat. Start a multi ball, see where the lit shots are. Start a song, see where the lit shots are. Repeat.
Being able to stack Slash solo is also on the wishlist. I’m excited to see what the final version of this code brings.

#17348 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

You're missing two important parts of the in-song goals:
1. Power Chords (which will also improve your shot accuracy by cleaning up the playfield)
2. Hitting the *active* band members as their parts come up to start Band Frenzy. Arguably this is more important than following the song's lit shots and has a greater reward once you start feeding the pops.

Yes but still same thing over and over is my point. With album modes being pretty worthless they aren’t worth risking a drain. Once (hopefully soon) they are better balanced, it will change the dynamic of the gameplay. I think there is a lot of potential with this Pin.

On another note please let a future code update include verbal call outs for reaching various jackpot amounts and stop the skull from burping over the value

#17351 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Coma, for example, makes you keep banging that Coma shot - difficult until you master the trick.

I think you taught us that trick? Left orbit around to a held up upper right flipper? Works like a charm!!

#17429 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

I’m guessing spraying it with soap & water/glass cleaner keeps it sticky longer?

It’s like putting golf grips on. Same concept. I’ve used the golf grip solvent when installing art blades and it works great. You can also use soap and water but that can get a bit messy. The golf solvent doesn’t run nearly as much. If you do the wet method it is impossible to mess up the installation and it’s 10x faster

#17584 2 years ago

I created a poll here to compile a list of code updated that we would like to see. Feel free to chime in on other ideas you like to see.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wishlist-jjp-gnr-code-updates-poll#post-6605321

#17587 2 years ago
Quoted from Mar3nBu:

rrosenhouse to install it, did you need to remove the ramp? I have it printed but need it installed.

I did not have to remove the ramp to install it.

#17589 2 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:

I managed to install it without removing the ramp. It’s tight and difficult but got it. I also added the o-ring in the post after. I notice most people leave the oring off

I never thought to put the ring back on. Might not be a bad idea since the bare posts seem to result in the most pooling issues. Can the ball still get stuck if the ring is there though?

#17595 2 years ago

Here’s the poll so far. 65 votes and counting

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wishlist-jjp-gnr-code-updates-poll#post-6605321

1C3B6E05-3731-4CBA-A4D1-1D357F66F44F (resized).jpeg1C3B6E05-3731-4CBA-A4D1-1D357F66F44F (resized).jpeg
#17617 2 years ago
Quoted from Lounge:

To those of you who have changed out the servos…..
My replacements seem to be slipping in the housings which makes the spot point all crazy. I did notice there was a plastic ring (like some sort of heat shrink tubing) around the gear of the original that would not go on the replacement servo gear. Did anyone experience this issue - any easy fixes out there?

Try wrapping the new gear in white plumbers tape or try heat shrink

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 130.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Dijohn
Decorations
$ 49.99
$ 12.00
Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
Tools
From: $ 49.99
Flipper Parts
FlipMods
Flipper parts
$ 427.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
Sound/Speakers
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
From: $ 0.00
Electronics
Skillshot Combo
Electronics
From: $ 35.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
$ 28.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
Side Gig Studios
Other
€ 69.00
Pinball Machine
Multiball mods
Pinball Machine
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 49.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 6.00
$ 100.00
Boards
Led Pinball
Boards
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
Decorations
8,249 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Temple, TX
11,000
Machine - For Sale
St. Clair Shores, MI
$ 10,200.00
Pinball Machine
The Pinball Place
Pinball Machine
$ 6.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
$ 124.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 210.00
Flipper Parts
Pin Monk
Flipper parts
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
€ 42.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PPmods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 100.00
Electronics
Led Pinball
Electronics
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 649.95
Lighting - Interactive
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Interactive
372 posts in this topic match your search for posts by Mattyk. You are on page 1 of 2.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Mattyk.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread?tu=Mattyk and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.