My new GnR LE shipped yesterday. FYI, it's #4054. Closing in on 5000.

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Really been enjoying GnR since ours came in last Wednesday. Much more to say/review, but for now, there's a small issue with what (I think) is the ball trough. ABout 20% of the time, it doesn't seem to recognize a ball that drains into the trough. Can happen either during single or multiball. I have to give the pin a nice shove, and it will finally register. Before I dive in to figure out what's up, I thought I'd ask here first. Anyone have any suggestions? Common?

Thanks, like we said, a really, really amazing table.

Tried this. The problem remains. I'm thinking it might be mechanical? When I shake the machine, that generally serves up a ball in a second or two. Maybe something keeping balls from smoothly rolling in the trough? I'll take a closer look.

New owner, dumb-ass question: How to I get more than 2 balls locked in the Guitar? Played about 20 games, I’ve never had more than 2 balls in the locks. Whenever I have 1 (or 2) balls locked up, they release after a bit of time. I’m sure there’s a setting for this, but I couldn’t easily find it.

Thanks.

I found the problem with my table not reliably serving balls. The trough VUK was adjusted about 1/16" too-high. Balls would get stuck on the tip instead of rolling all the way down the trough.

The solution was dead-simple. The trough VUK can be adjusted up/down via slotted holes. I moved it to the bottom of the range, and now it's working 100%. Who knew that "add-a-ball" modes actually ADDED a ball. What a game! Can't tell you how good this machine is, it's in the running for greatest pinball ever, seriously...

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Still loving this game. So many modes, and each has its on distinct and unique feel. Just a stunning accomplishment; my thanks to everyone at JJ that pulled this off.

Anyway, about the only issue I have now is pretty significant audio distortion when using the wired headphones. This game is SO good, it really begs to have it turned up to enjoy all the great audio. Doe anyone else get pretty severe audio distoration (especially in bass) in wired headphones, even at moderate volume levels? Any fixes for this? I'd pay to get a decent headphones amp into this machine (assuming my machine doesn't have a problem).

I think I tracked down the issue with Headphone distortion. My first clue was switching to Bluetooth headphones, which removes the amp stage from the equation. There was still very noticeable heavy clipping, especially of the bass FX sound (most especially, the Jet hits).

IMHO, the stock settings for various sounds are too high. I lowered the stock 75 settings to the 50-55 range, then bumped the music setting to around 70. This dramatically lowered the clipping, and the headphones sound 80% better. I'll experiment a bit more with even more lowering. This has a huge impact on the overall sound quality, honestly. No idea how the sounds combine in the DACs (root quadrature, maybe?), but with everything set at 75, it was clearly too much for the audio CODECs.

IF indeed the audio converters combine the sound streams as RMS values, then a setting of 75 on everything (all 4 levels) combine to a total level of 150. I'm thinking you want the RMS totals for all 4 channels to never exceed 100 to prevent clipping. And maybe I'm full of crap and know nothing about this. Whatever, the ear-test shows lowering the level across the board improves things pretty dramatically IMHO.

If I desire to avoid marital councelling, I have to pretty much use headphones 100% of the time. I can't comment on whether these adjustments impact the cabinet speakers. It's a fairly easy test to lower all the sound levels to 50. When I did this on the headphones, the low-frequency clipping was greatly reduced. This suggests that further tuning of these levels is probably worthwhile. YMMV.

I’ve owned over 50 pins. This is a first for me. Was returning the glass to my GnR, using the same procedure I’ve done thousands of times. Slid the glass about 5” in and *BAM*, it explodes. What a mess. Glass literally in every corner of the room. A shame, this pin is less than a week old.
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Brilliant idea! I'm just now remodelling my game room, and I'm going to put pretty plush carpet down (wood floors now). Hopefully, this serves the same function.

I didn’t get a printed manual with my new LE a few weeks ago. Just the PDF built into the service menu and available online.

Regarding the spotlight servos, are the emax servos standard spec? In other words, has anyone tried a different brand of servo here? I have drawers full of RC servos and parts. I'd guess any similar-size servo would probably work.

edit: a bit of searching in this thread shows others have used different hobby servos without issue. Good to know. You can get quality metal-geared servos at lots of places, including most any hobby shop

The 29" head should just fit through your door frame. It will be tight, and you may have to remove the door. If that doesn't work, then you get the fun plan B: head removal.

I have to remove the head to get pins into my basement gameroom. Narrow stairs with a switchback, then a low hallway with a tight turn.

Head removal on the Jersey Jack is considerably more complex than modern Sterns. Sterns are a piece-of-cake. You'll have to disconnect about 20 plugs on the Jersey Jack. Fortunately, the wires and plugs are both color-coded and keyed. Take plenty of pictures, and use labels when you disconnect if you're at all uncertain.

It does come off, and went back together easily. The key is pics + labels. I don't think it's possible to plug a cable into the wrong connector, but I didn't push this theory, either. Each is keyed, so that helps.

Good luck.

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It's tempting to custom-install the hyperlights as part of room lighting. Perhaps as a banner surround, or behind frosted glass. Lots of possiblities here. Hmmm....

I own both a GnR and Hobbit. Two totally different and amazing games.

Hobbit has some of the most interesting and varied shots and modes ever done. The 3 banks of individually-controlled drop targets are put to stunning use in this game. So many different shots. Moving targets, hit the targets behind but NOT the drops, and of course, the final kill shot for Smaug. I agree this is probably the most stunning moment in Pinball. It's hard for a reason: you not only have to get to this point, then you have to load the Windlass (captured ball shot by solenoid from the left outdrain), it fires to the upper flipper, and you have one chance to hit the switch behind a single, dropped target in a 5-target bank. This simulates killing Smaug by placing a careful shot through a missing scale in his armor. Do it, and the flippers go dead, balls drain, and you get an amazing video sequence. Anyway, theres much more to Hobbit: best action button use in any game, choices throughout at each stage, "monster" popups that force you to change shots and strategy, etc. If you want a mode-based adventure game with varied shots and objectives, this is it. It's the better playing game of the two.

GnR is the best overall pinball experience. The highlight in GnR is the stunning song/light choreography. There's nothing like the light shows on GnR anywhere in pinball, and the overall integration with the videos and songs is just amazing. I never tire of reaching Dirty Robot. The yellow/red light theme and some of the best video animation ever done accompany this mode. GnR does have some rule-based strategy to optimize scoring. The rules do have some complexity if you want to maximize points, but you don't need to know much to just enjoy getting song modes and see each unique light show. Patch collecting, for example, is a deep rabbit hole that will takes months to fully explore. GnR is the better walk-up-and-play machine for guests and friends that aren't pinheads.

My biggest criticism of GnR is the static nature of the layout. Unlike Hobbit, you pretty much shoot the same shots and field for each mode. This isn't bad. 98% of all pinballs are this way. Hobbit isn't, which makes it really dynamic with its combination of modes, bank targets, and popups.

Really, you can't wrong with either. Both are in my personal top-10.
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Probably TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) for a part seeing lots of ball impacts. This is a bit rubbery, and what many of the protectors sold here are made of. If you need it to be structurally stiff I’d suggest ABS, but that stuff is smelly and very difficult to print (you need and enclosure). PETG is an ok and easier to use alternative to ABS. PLA would be my last choice for something getting whacked all the time.

I ordered a full set including bushings for my GZ. I’ll provide some comments when I get them installed. I figured the Elwin games could benefit the most from repeatable precision. It was either GZ or JP for the first set. If they work, I’ll expand them to a couple of my tables.

I've installed these on several of my games. You can find my detailed review in the mods subforum.

Most welcome. I'm a bit surprised at all the heat I'm getting. Yes, I'm very positive about this system. I think it's warranted. I tried to remain factual in my reviews. I'm looking forward to others trying these out and their impressions.

^^^ This ^^^ Multiple, independent failures are exceedingly rare. There's almost always some root cause. I'd start with this suggestion. Excellent work, PinMonk.

From attract mode:

2 x right
7 x left
1 x right
14 x left
1 x right
18 x left
2 x right

The #33 switch stuck closed is almost certainly related to the points you get when using the flipper. The cause is a misadjusted switch. I believe this is the switch behind the rubber on the upper PF. Go into switch test mode, and check that switches function. You'll probably have to bend the leaf slightly so it's not so sensitive. It's probably activating with just the slighest shaking, such as when you hit the flipper buttons. Make it less sensitive, but activates when a ball stikes the rubber.

As for the left ramp switch, the solution is the same. Go into switch test mode, and see if its working. You may need to bend or slightly tweak the switch blade or wire form on the ramp.

Good luck.

I was one of the first customers for Precision Flip (bats, shafts, and metal bushings). Put this on my GZ. I found it a signifcant upgrade. My ability to repeat shots, especially loops, improved dramatically. I wrote a review, and I provided my thoughts on why this was the case. In sum, there's dramatically less slop in the metal flipper system. I measured this (see below). Standard flippers/bushings have ~15 mils of play at the end of the shaft. Precision Flip is ~1 mil.

We found slo-motion videos of flippers in action. It's stunning how much that slop comes into play when the flipper hits the ball. You get a double-bounce with the imprecise setup. In all areas - precision, repeatability, adjustability - I found the Precision Flip a better solution. I think pinball is more fun when you hit the shots you’re aiming for, and this upgrade did more toward that goal than any other mod I've installed in about 40 years of the hobby. I've since installed this on all my games. YMMV.

Great to hear! I’ve found JJP customer service excellent. Just for the record and others that my search for this, what was the specific resolution?

Thanks!

Fantastic! Thank you!

Great news. The fact they're messing with scoring is a super-positive sign for GnR. Really, the only thing between this layout and immortal greatness is balanced scoring and a few other rule changes (Slash solo, etc). I'm looking forward to the new release, very much.

I've had Precision Flip on my GnR for a while. Night and day difference. Flipper response is considerably more snappy, and I can backhand several shots I never could before. If you increase the flipper power as well, it transforms the flipper feel from the more "mushy" Williams to the snappy Stern that many people prefer. For me, Precision Flip is the #1 upgrade for any machine, even before a shaker motor. If you've not played a game with these, do seek one out. Note: you need the bushings as well to see the benefits.

As for color, I've tried both red and black and they both look good. I've currently got a black set on but will switch to red when my black silicone flipper rubbers come in. Just for grins, I may see how a blue set looks as well, though the mini-flipper is not available in blue (yet).

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I doubt we're getting IC on JJP machines. IC requires a dedicated QR reader with its own Stern node. *Maybe* they could program the camera on current JJPs to do this. You know, with all the extra programmers they have as they finish the code on the last 5 titles...

I just got back into a GnR LE. I traded my prior one last year, and missed it. Traded for another one last month and had forgotten just how good this title is.

Anyway, the biggest issue was always code related. Unbalanced scoring and a proliferation of multi balls on the stock setting. Thanks to the kind souls in this thread, I found several suggested settings that helped rectify many of these issues. I did some further adjustment, and IMHO, these new settings are an improvement over stock, but not yet ideal. First, all the quickie multiballs (Turn It Up, etc.) don't immediately start. You have to earn them, and I may see them once/game and then, only if I choose to focus on them. This is true for the Slash solo as well. With these settings (2500 spins to start), you're only going to get the Slash solo if you make it an objective.

Second, the scoring is way-more balanced. It's not perfect, but it seems to prevent any single song jackpot from blowing up your score. The downside is you can't compare games on my table to anyone else. That's a tiny issue, as now I can compare against my own better games. Finally, I make song qualification relatively easier compared to the 2-ball multiballs. I typically see 2-4 songs in a game now, and maybe one each of the 2-ball multiballs.

So, here's the settings I've tweaked. Any other suggestions here? I'm sure others have done the same. What's our consensus on settings tweaks to balance the game and address some of the issues on the current defaults. I have no-doubt the settings below can be improved upon. It might be a worthwhile effort among owners to come up with a commonly-accepted alternate set that addresses the common complaints in the current code.
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Here you go. A setting of "0" turns the timer off.

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Yes, I get the same behavior. I would prefer to NOT have the first song light immediately, but haven't yet found a setting to accomodate this. I'll keep looking on my end.

I do like these settings having a more of a song-mode focus. As for album modes, that's easily adjusted by changing the number of seconds needed to qualify. I have them at 30 seconds each, which basically means you'll qualify an album mode every time you do a song. I think I'll move these back toward 120 or 150 seconds to lower that a bit, perhaps even 200.

The last of the impactful settings is the "superlock" timer. I set this at zero initially. This is super-generous, as there's no Power Chord timer. If you can get a ball in the Power Chord lock, it will now hold it there until you drain or finish the song. If you'd like more of a challenge, you could move this back to something like 40 or 60 s. FYI.

As I said originally, still tuning these. The character of the game can be changed quite a bit, and a colloborative effort here to find more balanced modes is appreciated.

Thanks. I'm doing a bit of tweaking on my end to balance the song qualification and make the album modes a bit more reasonable to start. I'll post updated settings after a bit more testing.

Regarding an Excel file vs screen shots, I actually prefer screenshots. It can be hard to locate settings when there's pages of them. With a screenshot (especially the JJP screenshots which highlight a changed setting in red text), it's clear exactly where to find things. And not THAT many settings are changed.

It's been said since release that GnR is a few code-tweaks away from being an all-time-epic title. As others are now beginning to see, you can REALLY change the character of this game by adjusting the settings available to us. The one thing I would prefer JJP to take the lead on would be balancing the scoring. Our alternate settings are better, but this aspect is still not ideal.

Here's an update to the settings I've been tweaking. This version plays very differently from the stock game. It's much more song- and album-mode focussed, and it gives considerably less of the random 2-ball multi balls. I've tweaked my previous version to balance song qualification, including the need to qualify most band member to start your first song. I've adjusted each band member to what I feel were balanced settings for each qualification. My other change was to increase the time needed to qualify various album modes, as well as balancing what it takes to complete album modes.

I'm much happier with this version of the settings after my play testing. Still not perfect, but quite fun as I enjoy playing the various songs and making progress in that manner.

Note: the following screen shots will show parameters changed from default in RED text. FYI.

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Aweome! Thanks *tons* for taking the time to do this. I printed out a copy, and will keep this with the game. Really well done.

The Jersey Jack flipper mechs use really cheap metal ("pot" metal) and will deform and slip against the hardened shafts that John uses in Precision Flip. He's released a keyed shaft and clamp system to solve this problem. Works great. I'd strongly recommend ordering this if you're going to install Precision Flip on a JJP game. I have them on all 3 of my JJP tables.

As I understand it, @eskaybee's main goal was to balance the scoring between modes and songs. When I played his settings, it did a better job of this than the stock settings, admirably so.

My goal was to not only balance the scoring, but to do 2 other things: make starting the various non-song multiballs harder and less frequent; and 2) make song qualification and play - along with album modes - easier to achieve. I adopted Eskaybee settings to balance scoring in songs as well. In my settings, you'll play more songs more often and should only see the other multiballs (2-ball, Slash solo, etc.) after you either make them a priority and aim for them, or only once or so otherwise in a typical game. My settings feel very different from stock. As other's have observed, it really does feel like a different game.

Scores on either mine or @eskaybee's settings can't be compared to stock. If that's your goal, you should stick with stock. The settings I settled on are for the game I want to play. I love the song modes, and deliberately try to pick new songs every game as I learn the subtlities of each. A bonus of my settings is you make progress to the ultimate wizard mode a bit more quickly, though I've not yet gotten there. I have completed each of the album modes, but never all of them in one game. They're fun!

IMHO, the recent code updates are more utility than game-play based. About the only thing added recently to GnR that is an improvement (in 2.0) is a graphic equalizer for audio. That's nice, but doesn't do anything for gameplay. The other major change has been the removal of Scorbit. Once JJP releases their own online platform - hopefully with a good achievements system - then you'll have an upgrade with substance.

Again, IMHO, the focus on a new JJP online platform is the reason we've not seen much progress on game-specific code improvements. JJP almost certainly knows that GnR could use updates to balance scoring. Perhaps we'll see this as the next priority after the rollout of JJP online.

Your servo is mounted below the tabs. It should be mounted above. That's why it hits the ramp.

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These are all symptoms of a bad SSD. They're cheap and fairly easy to replace. Just be sure you have a USB stick prepared for a full installation per the instructions on the JJP website.

My settings are correct in the spreadsheet. They represent the latest version.

The confusion maybe that I've posted 2 sets of screenshots (v1 and v2, so to speak). v2 is the latest, and the spreadsheet contains that version.

Pyro Qualification = 4
Coma Mode difficulty = 1
Time to qualify album = 120 (the most important change I made in the current settings)

All of these are the current settings, v2.

That's the first set. My second, revised and most current screenshots are found in post #26522

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/531#post-7815457

Common problem. Remove the whole rail assembly. If you have a vise, clamp down on the 4 small wire ends. Then use a hammer to tighten the angle on all 4 wires. If you don't have a vise, you can use pliers to (carefully) put a bit more angle into the bend on each wire. As-delivered, these don't have enough bend in them and the ball gets hungup. I did this fix, and zero issues since.

Try plugging the wife dongle into another USB port directly on the motherboard. If that doesn' work, I'd swap the wifi dongle with another game that you know works.

My upgrade to Beta 36 failed. I downloaded B36 (from B35) via the utility screen, and it started to update my GnR. Process froze and gave the following screen. I'm in the process of downloading a clean build of 2.0 to a USB stick now as a solution.

edit: clean USB install of 2.0 worked. Lost my settings/high scores. Lesson: keep them backed up if you care prior to updates.
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If you've not adjusted leaf switches before, be aware that you can make things worse. Less is more in these adjustments. TINY little movements. Its easier with the proper tools. If you're using a screwdriver, insert the blade and twist to open up the contacts, a little bit at a time. There's some good guides and photos in the tech section of Pinside. Worth taking a look to see what part (and where) on the switch to adjust.

Welcome to the club. No backup? That gets you the VIP membership, just like me.

Didn't something similar happen with Over the Rainbow on WoZ? It's on videotape. They guy spends 45 minutes getting to the mode. It starts, and the game crashes...

Follow the directions for preparing the full-install USB stick exactly. I keep a Windows laptop around just for these kind of things. PITA, for sure. If that doesn't work, ask someone here and they can likely send you a prepared USB stick. I would, but I'm away the next 7 days.

This is one of the most important settings in the game. This is the timer you start once you lock the first ball for a Power Chord during song modes. While this timer is active, you can continue to lock balls on the guitar neck during song modes. When the timer expires, the game releases all locked balls and awards a Power Chord. If you turn this off, there's no timer and you can lock balls on the neck throughout the song, and it will score a Power Chord when your last non-locked ball drains.

If you look at my original settings, you'll see I also zeroed out the timer for the power chords. I agree with both of you; being able to stack balls in the power cord makes the song modes both more controllable and more enjoyable.

There's several sets of alternate settings posted in this thread. I did a set a few months ago. The goal was fewer random multiballs, more song mode, and more balanced scoring. Search my username, and the settings list will come up.

I'm not at my machine currently, but if I remember, it has a very cryptic name like "Superlock timer" under Song? Mode? settings or something. It should be listed in the spreadsheet.

I just had an offer to trade another of my Spike 2 games (Rush LE) for JJP GF LE. I go look at my small collection, and the JJP titles are just so good. Not just theme, art, and layout. The hardware is far better. All RGB. Huge monitors. Far better audio. Full length PF supports. Built in Headphones. Neat wiring. I sometimes wonder if I should just collect JJP and be done with it.

The problem with my trade offer is I love Rush. It's my favorite band. And my LE is lovely. Sorry to intrude on our GnR thread. Anyone else have a Godfather? How does it compare to GnR and others? I should mention, Godfather is a dream theme in my family, too. My mother's all time favorite movie and she's 100% Sicilian.

Thanks for the supportive comments. No game I own is bolted. I rather enjoy mixing things up, honestly. I’ve had games come and go over the years, now over 70 titles since the 90s. What I’ve found is, I am more-and-more ending up with JJP. For reasons I stated, they just seem to have more of what I like in the long run. I’m the exception that thinks JJP flippers are outstanding. Closer to the gold-standard WPC flippers of the 90s. I always felt the Stern flippers were too binary, more just on or off. Anyway.

No pinball is bad. Some titles are good. A few are great. Personally, I think GnR is a code-update away from being a GOAT. Really. The hardware, layout, theme, and experience is unique. For reasons we all know, it’s just code that stands in the way. Balance the scoring, make multiballs a bit more rare and special, and make the game a journey of songs and concerts, and you’re there. There’s a reason a subset of us here have been collaborating on GnR settings. In the absence of JJP providing an official update, we’re trying our best with what we already have.

Back to my Rush/GF decision. An element of my thinking is Rush is pretty common. You’ll always find one reasonably. Not so GF. It hasn’t sold well. Looks to me like the next POTC. And JJP isn’t going to re-run games. I was just looking for input from folks here - already self-selected JJP owners - on their thoughts on GF. I’m pretty laid-back, and I find I enjoy titles that seems to be well-received by Pinside. All that has to subsitute, as I’ve not played GF yet. There may be one in my city, I need to check out Sister Bar. Thanks again.
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It's not the cost. It's the form factor. I treasure my ultra-clean and uncluttered game room. I don't do toppers or anything else. I'm always moving pins around, and subs complicate that process. We have adorable cats that love to play chase under the games, too. Can't have debris on the raceway.

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That GF on the red carpet looks amazing. Great job!

Here's what my functionning game switch matrix looks like for comparison. I'd probably start by looking at the 2 red switches in your matrix that say "bad switch". You get this message if the game hasn't detected a switch activation after some amount of time. If you're not sure where those switches are, press the start button on the matrix screen and it will show a diagram. See if you can trigger either of those switches, and go from there. You may need to bend contacts, check for broken wires or lose solder connections, etc.
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I've got 3 JJPs with the old board. Your post is going to cost me over a grand. Thanks.

If the jumper trick doesn't work, then its probably your ATX power supply. Easy replacement.

I just ordered 10 capacitors, to do 5 machines on my end. You want 6800uF 100V electrolytic capacitors. Here's the link for the caps I ordered:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/rubycon/100USC6800MEFCSN35X50/3565927

The install is pretty basic for anyone with soldering skills. As previously suggested, you'll need to extend the leads on the caps and then rest them on 3/4" PVC pipe "rings" to keep them above the bridge rectifiers on the board. Pay very close attention to the postive lead on the caps (the white strip on the side should go in the same orientation).

I'll post back once I've modified a board on my end.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/rubycon/100USC6800MEFCSN35X50/3565927

For certain items, I stick with known suppliers. Big electrolytic caps is one of those. Tons of chinese knockoffs that are known to fail early (along with Chinese rechargeable batteries). Mouser or Digikey for this kind of stuff.

What exactly do you mean by "copied the iso content to the usb"? If you use the required burner software, there's no need to do any manual partition or USB volume naming.

Are you using the required RUFUS software?

Per this link: https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/general/install-full/JJP_USB_UPDATE_PC_instructions.pdf

You have to a do a full USB install for this, which I did.

Folks are already complaining about song vs. non-song scoring imbalance in the beta? WTH? Keith says very clearly:

"Keep in mind, this is to compare song vs song. Songs will be a bit out of control compared to main play for the moment. Remember, first of several"

After years, we finally have JJP doing what everyone asked, and some folks are already complaining? Keith, if you're reading this, THANK YOU. Ignore these folks that apparently lack reading comprehension and take your time to balance the game to your satisfaction. I, for one, am both pleased and excited that GnR now has the potential for an all-time-great as the last remaining issues are now under active revision.

From the JJP e-mail newsletter:

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all info here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-fully-populated-enhanced-i-o-board

Fabulous game, and if you're a GnR fan, it's highly recommended as a single-pin. IMHO, the second best value in a modern pin today (first being Dialed In.). With so many GnRs produced, I personally don't think it has much upside appreciation, but it's a great deal right now for a fantastic title.

I'd call it the 2nd best deal. Best deal is Dialed In. LE in the $6k to 7k range. And, that's a far rarer title, around 1000 total. It also happens to be a real gem. The play is great, closest thing to a WPC-style game in the modern era. I also like original IP and theme, the only JJP and one of the few recent pins that isn't derived from other media.