Heard that there are only a few hundred left to be produced and that's it. So if you are on the fence, better get your order in quick. Not sure if they will cut the total production below the 5,000 expected? The number plate doesn't say 1 of 5000 so they can produce any number they want I guess.

Have some original CE side blades for sale, pick up at Pinfest or in Toronto area $100US. Perfect condition. Thanks.

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Those are CE side blades dude!

Thanks corrected!

Has anyone tried installing aftermarket side rails? Curious if JJP’s flipper button hole location is the same as Stern or unique to them? Found some bubbling to the decal around the flipper button.

Post #8639 explains the fix. Had the same issue…very easy to smooth it out.

Think I just answered my own question. JJP rails are the same as Bally/Williams WPC
47 3/16”.

Only played 1 game tonight. Got through 3 songs. Had next to 0 patches. (Gun, Fender, Vater). My Michelle, 45 or so song level, started way before I wanted to. Got a 5 ball powerchord and a 30 second ball saver so I decided to try and finish it. Hit applause for around 5.5 million and made encore with Nighttrain, which was around 85 song level. Almost cashed out but hit another 5 ball powerchord so I kept going. Applause jackpot was still only around 8 million but I got Welcome to the Jungle for encore with about 130 song level and hit applause jackpot on that too. Only had 2 balls in play and got no encore. Ended up with a small 26,000,000 final score but it was still a nice run considering I started with next to no song level. And made it through 3 full songs in a row.

Feeling bad for my other games again.

Have an issue with my left flipper. It seems to have ceased up and won't move by hand. Looks like its killed itself. The coilstop was very loose too. All the coils at the bottom of the playfield have stopped working also (right flipper, kickout etc). What do I need to replace and should I be concerned that the other coils aren't working? The game only has 10 games on it when this happened.

IMG_20220410_140742.jpg

is this the same power supply that woz uses? or will it at least work in a woz?

Depends on which era of WoZ. They've had at least two power setups through the years. I think one version used a custom power board and not an atx power supply.

Just picked up an eBay open box new titanium 850 the other day for a discount of 196 shipped. Thx for the upgrade suggestion.

JJP told me they are ending the run at the end of the summer. With over 3500 shipped already, it is possible that they’ll reach 5000?

Say 3600 LEs produced so far. Add 500 Ce and say 500 SE? 4600 total. Started production around Sept 2020? Say 20 months. That’s about 230/month on average, but I’m sure they are more efficient now, after 1.5 years of production. Say 250/month production. Four and a half more months until end of summer. That would estimate 4750. That’s pretty darn close to 5000 LEs. And a total ballpark.

I bet they complete the run.

They almost have to, they said 5000. Can’t really see them not doing it. This game is so awesome I’ve had FOMO for the last few months now on buying a second one just to keep it NIB.

They also said 5000 Wonka LE's and I don't think they are anywhere close to that. GnR probably has a decent chance though. I think it largely depends on when they start making Toy Story's.

I’ll bet they complete the run. They’re on pace, orders have been strong, and JJP expanded their manufacturing capacity without announcing any new games (yet).

Kudos to JJP for plowing through their GNR run before releasing a new title.

Good point. But I’m also assuming they can still build all 5000 Wonka LE indefinitely, license permitting. So if not now, maybe more will be run at a later date once demand starts draining more of what’s left of the current built supply.

I’m new to the group! Pretty excited to learn this game!!

EFC3D6C7-1202-4721-9387-3EFCF22F0571 (resized).jpeg

Wow, that looks absolutely toasted. At the minimum I would expect you to need a new flipper coil and coil sleeve, and maybe a new plunger and link if it is fused inside the melted coil, PLUS you very likely need a new playfield fuse and replacement transistors for whatever was driving that coil, plus even if you fix all that you would need to make sure this not some issue somewhere (e.g. wire short) that is causing this even with all new parts (this could be a symptom rather than the cause, but it could be the coil internally shorted or something).

Knock on wood I have never had to do the transistor replacement or troubleshooting on an JJP pin, but others should be able to chime in eventually.

Glass half empty, this is the crappy part of pinball.

Glass half full, I believe this should be a user repairable thing if you are comfortable with board work and solder. If not, you have to ask yourself who is local who can do this for you!

I was on another thread and someone said they are winding down now, implying they wouldn't make the full 5k. JJP stated a run of 5k in the beginning for LE only and also stated a few months ago it would complete end of summer. They are easily over 4k now and distributors are apparently stocking these now so appears to be no wait and demand has waned enough to justify a shut down.
This to me indicates plausibly better to wind it down early and move on to toy story (pin bait ) and as another stated if they had the license to produce 5k they could start up and complete their run of GnR a year or more after TS launch when there are not anymore GnR nib and fulfill a second wave of demand again and possibly at higher prices.. kinda like they did with rerun of Wonka, maybe?

My rendition of sevenrites post

lol, yes, thank you, that was well done! And ultimately what I think I was trying to conclude, that if not now, they’ll likely finish the run later as needed.

it is never grabbing during gameplay. I did adjust some difficulty settings recently. perhaps thats it.

I suppose the magnet is functional, because it has proper volts and continuity. unless there's something i am missing....

What’s the consensus on installing Cliffy’s scoop protector vs. keeping the OEM part?

I’m glad I kept the OEM part. I’ll add the cliffy later if it takes damage and needs covered.

The amount of effort it takes to do the cliffy versus how well the OEM has held up so far and just wanting to play it out of the box are all reasons why I did a hard pass. And people have complained about the Cliffy lifting and failing so I have no regrets.

Over 1000 plays and still good. Here’s a pic, just now, I was fixing to play and realized I have to change a second snubber rubber now.

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So picked up my GNR this weekend and upon firing up noticed the code was out to date so started the update process via my wifi here at home .

It was updating then heard the music startup in basement and thought it was done … but screen says finishing the update . I have checked a few times and hasn’t changed ..

Anyone have this issue or is it just a long large file to open and update onto the system ?

Thx In advance

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What code was it on? Somewhere around 1.17 or before the update system was borked and you had to manually update with USB and ...close the coin door, once the process started, if I remember right?

If you look in the topic index at the top of any page in this thread and click keypost summary to sort by the type, you can look for the TECH:CODE entry that has a link to that info.

Dumb quick question that has a lot of backstory that is hard to spell out here in detail...

Does the transformer on anyones machine hum fairly loudly, or is it just mine? Like to describe the volume, you can hear it when no game audio is going on, but its drowned out when you're playing easily.

Ours is like that..

I ended up resetting it thinking it was just hung up on that screen now it doesn’t boot at all so will have to make a call to JJP

If you haven't already called support, try performing a full install.

You will need a 8GB to 32GB USB thumbdrive.

Full 1.25 install file: https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/gnr/GunsNRoses-v01.25.iso
Instructions: https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/general/install-full

If Unetbootin fails, try Rufus. I have better luck with Rufus myself.

This should get you back up and running.

I used the USB port underneath like in my woz with the full install of 1.25 but doesn’t seem to make it through anything will maybe try rufus instead I’m using Unetbootim like in the past on my woz thx for the tips

This is exactly the same behavior I had with Unetbootin the last couple of updates I did on various machines.
Rufus should get you back up and running.

I kept the original part also - mostly bs I heard the cliffy is a time consuming job to install. I do however have both of the side “tabs” lifting. Sounds like Cliffy also has this issue at times. I am curious if anyone with the original has had luck bending the tabs back down? I tried but they are metal and just seem to lift back up as soon as the pressure is off of them. Anyone have any tricks?

Following. I’m having the same issue and was wondering the same thing.

What problem is it causing? Mine are lifting just so slightly too but no issues.. the trick I use is to keep hitting the start button.

When POTC lost its supply I just bought one from Best Buy. A corsair 750watt I think.

Can you provide the recommended model of a seasonic gold to replace with? Thank you

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/423#post-6872301

Corsair is just a brand, they don't make their own power supplies. In fact, some of their top end ones are just rebadged Seasonics anyway. BUT, you don't know what you're getting with them since they buy from multiple OEMS and just put their name on them. Might be good, might be bad. If you buy a Seasonic, you're getting a Seasonic.

I haven't replaced one in a long time, but you should be fine with any of the Seasonic Gold 650W or above.

Great trying it after this next attempt , supposedly have different steps to follow of you download iso via mac and not windows computers .

I already tried today and tech support said try a different USB stick first cause it wasn’t reading my usual working one . :/

The quest for the wonky right spotlight continues.....

Here is what I did next.

Plugged in the right spotlight sent me, booted the machine, and let it go to what IT thinks is center.

Removed it from the game, unscrewed the spotlight from the servos and manually put the light in a horizontally center position. Then vertically put the light in a slightly down position.

Both times making sure to move the plastic components and NOT the servos themselves.

Put the assembly back in the game and the boot up sequence showed the light in a horizontally centered slightly down position. Was looking good.

Running the self diagnostics did not yield the correct results on it. Way off from what was on the display.

Possibly the orientation of the servos?

Can someone give a quick check of their game and see if the servos are orientated as I have them:

Left spotlight - Top servo (left/right) - Wire comes out from the top of the left side of the servo
Left spotlight - Bottom servo (up/down) - Wire comes out from the right of the bottom side of the servo.
Right spotlight - Top servo (up/ down) - Wire comes out from the left of the top side of the servo
Right spotlight - Bottom servo (left / right) - Wire comes out from the bottom of the right side of the servo.

Thanks.

I'm confused by your post.... Maybe I'm just tired.

You adjust the spot to center while it's installed in the machine, with pin turned on, and diagnostic mode set to center for that spotlight.

At that point, loosen the screw and nut in the side just enough that you can physically adjust to center position and then tighten down. Now it's centered.

Just to make sure, as it is a little confusing: the self test arrow shows where the spotlight is GOING to move to when you hit start. So as you enter the test, the yellow dot is in the center, as your spotlights should be. Then you press start, and the left spotlight moves to the upper left, as the arrow shows. But the instant you do that, the arrow moves to the upper right, which is where it will go NEXT.

Dot shows current position, arrow points to next position.

With that in mind, is your test still failing? The most likely cause of that is connectors swapped between horizontal and vertical on one or both sides.

Spotlight Wiring key post here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/419#post-6849021

I’ll apply Mylar over the wings, see if that keeps them from lifting over time. At least it can’t hurt.

Since I have a second spotlight assembly, I centered it plugged into the game. Then turned the machine off , unhooked the assembly and made the adjustments at my desk. Plugged in back in. Still not working properly.

Thanks for checking my understanding. Yes, I know that is how the diagnostic functions. Left spotlight seems to be fine.

One pic shows a matrix of one my tests on the spotlight. As you can see, it is NOT simply "It doesn't go as left as I would like" or "It should be down but only slightly.

It is WAAAAAAY off.

From JJP, I have a replacement right spotlight assembly, controller board, and servo cable. Essentially all the pieces in the chain.

The second pic shows all the permutations of tests run.

NO permutation enabled the right spotlight to behave correctly.

Makes NO sense to me at all.

My last post about checking the orientation of the servos is grasping at straws.

test1 (resized).png

test2 (resized).png

If I'm reading it correctly, that matrix tells me you just need to swap the two connectors on the right servo assembly.

The left/right servo is mechanically/physically limited in its travel. Therefore it is also programmatically limited in its travel. It can move left of center, it can't move right of center. The fact that your up/down servo is only moving down and center says that it's being driven by the left/right servo's cable.

The servos make a little whining noise when moving, and when briefly holding position after they've moved, until the power is cut to them awaiting the next move. It's just how servos work and is not cause for alarm. The noise will be louder if they are under some sort of load, or restriction to their movement. The fact that you mention the noise (presumably because it's louder than normal) at certain positions says that maybe its travel is being impeded... the way the left/right servo movement is impeded if it tries to move very far past right of center...the way it would be if it were being driven by the up/down servo's cable.

Ergo they're swapped.

As much as a PITA as it is with that right assembly, you may want to remove it and do all the mechanical centering and screw tightening again after swapping the cables, since it is possible that fighting against its mechanical limits could have loosened the screw.

has anyone reading added the pinwoofer kit to gnr ? i'm getting started in case there are any tips . sounds like sh!7 now .