They do not.

I believe the lights believe they are centered.

I think the diagnostics should have the ability to incrementally move the spot on each axis which would allow you to reset it to 0,0.

They just move in a specific pattern from center to clockwise around the square I think... Center first, then to upper left, to upper right, to lower right then lower left and back to center. (this is from memory). So the left is super easy to align if you can hold the nut and loosen the screw when its in "center" on the test. Adjust and retighten while centered in place.

I agree with the pattern you describe during the test.

To me, the diagnostic is clearly used to test the operation of the servos with the BIG assumption that the spots are centered to start.

I will try your method when I get home.

Thanks for the help.

PS. Need to add the felt to the pop for the ball hangup. Seems to happen at least once a game.

And my games are SHORT.

Exactly. Aside from diag ability to test both vertical servo and horizontal servo operation, the center position is specifically useful in this case to physically adjust/align the spotlight in the assembly so it is properly facing center when the diag is set to center position. Once you have done that the rest of the motion will be accurate based on that center position alignment. Looks like they missed this at JJP on yours.

PS. the pop hang up is a common first gripe. I still havent done anything about it.. I nudge the game if its a floater right in that spot to prevent it from settling enough to get stuck... Its part of the game for me. LOL.

SHORT games will be less and less frequent as your game count increases, but I dont think they will ever go away completely. I dont even think about them anymore, but when they do, after the game ends and it wants your initials for the high score of the DAY, just remember this magic combo: left flipper, action, start.
I only enter initials if I get the GC or land in the ALL TIME TOP 8 scoreboard. (which is less and less these days for some reason - I need a new strategy - and some skills)

Just got my ticket magnet from j_m_, these are copied from the ticket stubs I saved from that show. Same seat and section, pretty cool!

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Try putting it on the apron under the glass. I just did this with mine. The factory rules / price card just happen to be the perfect length to hold a regular Ticketmaster ticket. I was thinking about getting a plastic ticket holder for it, but I just might leave it like this since it fits so well. And to anyone who went to a concert, but doesn't have their physical ticket, there is a cool site called Stubforge where you can enter in all the details and create any custom ticket you want. I went to a GNR concert here in Sep. of 2021, but couldn't get a physical ticket. I just took all the details from my mobile ticket and created my own physical ticket through their site. Nice memento and it looks awesome.

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Playfield has date of Dec13, 2021.

If anyone wants pictures of a certain area before I start adding stuff, please let me know.

Here is the latest info on the journey to fix the spotlights.
- All servo connections verified to be seated properly.
- No servo arms broken.
- No part of the arms are catching so I did not cut anything as per earlier issues.

What I found interesting was this:

When EVERY test on the left spotlight is done, I hear a noise coming from the right spotlight. Like a high pitched whine.

When I test the right spotlight, ONLY the following tests make the noise:
- top left to top right
- top right to bottom right
- top left to center

Servo now suspect?

Working with JJP tech support. But with work, each iteration is 24 hours.

Get a servo tester kit. You can just unplug the servos from the game at the connector and use the tester to see if the servo is working

Barnabas Robotics Servo Motor Tester Kit | 180 Degree 9g Servo Motor + RC Servo Tester Controller + 6V Battery Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K7SVXRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JZWAER3ZEB9BW39MAGP4

Unless JJP is sending you completely new assemblies with servos, which would be easy and plug and play, I would have to throw in the option to go rogue and replace with emax, they move with authority and dead quiet. You're probably 900 plays away from replacing 1 or more servos anyway. And if you want to go full on with the spotlight assembly upgrade kit too, I know a guy who knows a guy ...

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

JJP Guns N Roses - GnR Spotlight OFFICIAL upgrade kit Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “this is the official GNR Spotlight assembly upgrade kit - Upgrade the assemblies on both spotlights with this kit. I had these imported from Germany @ pinball universe. They don'...”

2022-04-28

Nashville, TN

Vespula

110 (Firm)

Archived after: 31 days

Viewed: 382 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

Hey Vespula which nut are you referring to?
I replaced my left without centering it and can’t follow your instructions.
Thanks.

The screw and nut that goes through side of the spotlight which holds it in the assembly. Loosen the screw/ nut so you can manipulate the spotlight to center position and then tighten them down (pin on and set the diag in center position of the test mode before you do this, of course) .

Hope this helps.

Got it thanks.

Still working with JJP on the testing. Sending many videos as part of the process. They have been very responsive. One of the asks was to swap the servo connectors at the controller board but all the servos go into one connector. Wonder if a previous rev had two connectors.

Hopefully a full servo assembly replacement is in my cards.

As for emax, already have 4 sitting here on my desk. Was hoping to hold off using them until it was on my dime. The machine has been in the house 3 days so looking for JJP to deal with it.

As for the spotlight assembly upgrade kit, I will send you an IM.

Thanks.

I didn't study all the connections but it looked to me like each servo connection went into a connection right behind the assemblies. Where that connection goes I don't know.
But if you've got the emax seems like you're going through a lot of work with JJP If your assemblies are in good shape Just to put in the same substandard servo compared to what you've got.
Your time is money so that's your dime too and unless the board is bad, and you can test with your servos. It's not going to be the last thing you have to do on this machine... I take the glass off of regularly since I got it. Some mods, fixes, fixes of the fixes, tweaks, repairs, waxing. I'm in this pinball machine almost as much as I'm playing it.
And unless this activity with JJP proves that the board is bad, to install the assembly upgrade kit you're going to use all four emax servos and you're going to take the whole assemblies apart Anyway. Which is definitely making this JJP adventure a waste of time if your board is good. Assemblies they send you are the same ones you got now that work And we'll just prove that the board is bad at the same problem exists. Because the only other problem could be the servos and you have spares now. I'm tired and I'm rambling I know. Still trying to help believe it or not.

Nice. Key post worthy!

I took pictures so I wouldn't get them confused and I think this resource is even more helpful.

My scoop cliffy started to raise up in the front. I just put some mylar over it so my guest could continue playing. Does anyone have a recommendation on adhesive to secure it? I don't want to remove the upper playfield again. It took me forever to get it properly lined up after I've removed it to install the cliffy.

My factory installed scoop protector is still holding strong after 1000 plays. Not sure what to recommend for your Cliffy, maybe Cliffy himself can help. That’s who I’d ask if it were me. Seems like a common issue though, I’ve had Cliffys on other games do the same thing. Maybe the adhesive on them needs to be a bit stronger.

I've experienced the same thing and opted not to purchase a scoop protector for my GNR. Not sure if adhesive is the issue perhaps the design needs to change. On my other game the scoop protector lifted just enough to prevent the ball entering the scoop when it would of otherwise. I did try some double sided adhesive tape that I use when CNC'ing and it didn't hold up long - don't think I 'd want to try anything stronger.

I agree, I feel like too much adhesion would potentially cause more damage if it lifted paint or layers of wood when they lift or get warped. Personally, I think the metal on Cliffys needs to be stronger and better quality, or just a little bit thicker. Then maybe they will lay flat a bit longer instead of raising up.

Not sure why the cliffy is raising up as long as the playfield is not damaged. Maybe the “tab” where it clicks in on the front of the cliffy got misaligned?

The original protector had some double sided adhesive strip. I used what was leftover when I installed my cliffy. Maybe pull the cliffy if it’s in good shape and not bent and apply a 3m strip

Hello all - need a little help please. Center scoop does not detect the ball/ score the shot when hit. Started happening right in the middle of the game just now. Ball only kicks out after a ball search. I see a little sensor on the left side… I tried adjusting it up a little bit without force to make sure the ball hits it, but no luck. any tips?

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Ok so admittedly I’m still getting used to the game and still not getting great scores yet and very few extra balls, but it occurred to me that when I do get an extra ball I don’t recall ever hearing the knocker kick. Am I just not realizing it (in the heat of the game) or is the knocker only kicking for matches (I do hear it then)? On a HUO game match doesn’t mean anything and the sound of the knocker hitting the cabinet just brings back memories for me. In fact I plan to get a knocker for my Rush when I get it because the audio knock just doesn’t do it for me.

It's just a roller switch that has either bent too much or one of the wires (or diode) ends on it has broken. Go into switch test mode and press that roller down and see if it registers. Make sure your solenoids aren't enabled or it will kick your finger if it IS working. IF the switch works in switch test mode, you just have to re-bend the arm so the ball will press it enough to register. If the switch DOES NOT work in test mode, you likely have a broken wire or diode leg.

Last possibility if the switch doesn't work is a bad switch.

Appreciate it - Thank you!

And right after I posted I got an extra ball and no knock. Seems like that could be a nice addition to the knock settings.

Correct. Knock is match only.
Extra ball is much more high tech. I love the drums and animation of the skull cracking on the LCD when I get it.

Yeah I like all that too. I just think it would be even better with a knock as well.

So my record spinner seems too sensitive or loose or something. Physically it seems fine and the optos are both working, but when you hit the flippers it will rotate just from the weight of the post on it wanting to be at the bottom I believe. As a result it triggers constantly. Should I be trying to increase the friction on it somehow? Sounds weird to even be saying that because it should spin freely. But maybe it’s too easy to spin?

The top has probably come loose from the center post it's mounted to. There's a screw hidden under the decal in the center of the record. Hold the base under the playfield and see if the top still can turn. If so, you need to tighten the top. You can probably feel it where the hole is in the center of the decal and make a small cut in it for access to tighten the screw, which will likely solve your problem.

Thanks for the quick response PinMonk! That’s what I was most worried about because I didn’t want to have to cut into the sticker so soon. Good news though is that it looks like it was a different switch that was causing the problem. It was bumper switch #19 next to the P in PYRO. It was almost touching so any vibration was causing it to trigger. Just bent the bracket back a tiny bit and that solved it. The album still spins a tiny bit each time I hit the flipper, but it isn’t enough to trigger a score.

I also got to play the “found this loose screw in the cabinet, where does it go game” while I was in there. Figured out three of the four so far. Good times.

Ah, so when you thought the movement was triggering the sensor for the record platform, it was actually the unrelated pyro switch that made it SEEM related, when it wasn't at all. Got it. Glad you figured it out!

Out of curiosity, is there an interlock that disables the solenoids when the coin door is open?

Only the 70v coils.

I pressed it down fully in the switch test and it doesn’t register. Safe to say I should reach out to JJP and ask for a new switch?

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Jump across the switch tabs with a metal something or a piece of wire with the game in matrix switch test - see if the game reacts. If it does, then the problem is most likely the switch. If not, the problem is most likely the wiring between the switch and the board.

I just used a screwdriver and pressed it down all the way and nothing. All other switches were recognized when tested.

I meant jump across the soldered wire tabs - essentially bypassing the switch itself and fooling the game into thinking that the switch is closed. In your first picture you showed the tabs with wires soldered to them - just jump across them and see if the game reacts as if the switch was closed. If it does, then the wiring is good and either the switch has gone bad OR there is a small possibility that the screws mounting the switch body are tightened too tight thus the switch is binding inside. If you jump from the white to the green wire at the switch tabs and the game does not react, the problem is not the switch itself.

Just tried - If I touch both solder spots with a screwdriver the vuk activates

Okay so if you can use a #1 philips screwdriver and just loosen the screws going through the switch body just a little bit in case the switch is bound inside. Slight chance but it does happen.

Just tried loosening the screws and it still doesn’t work. Thank you for all the guidance - I really appreciate it. I’ll contact JJP tomorrow to get a new rollover switch

Okay - use this: http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Support-Form/

Just did- thank you very much for your time today Pinballomatic! You are a kind soul!

In the menus, is there a way to adjust the bass and treble for the front and sub woofer? I can see the option between 4 and 8 ohm speakers but nothing related to bass. My SE seemed to have a lot better sound quality than the LE. Not sure if they have downgraded the speakers in the last year since the SE was first released? Thanks for the help!

Sounds like you worked it out. Dead switch. I keep one or two of each kind (blade, roller, wire, etc) on hand because I'm a big baby who can't wait when one goes out. They're not that expensive.

You forgot wise. A wise big baby.

If someone ever got the wise idea to put together the "big baby first aid emergency kit" of this sort on their website, I would order it. Just sayin.

Isn't it fun when the slings slap your hand as you're cleaning the pf?

just had that happen this afternoon while cleaning the playfield after switching out the blue snubber rubbers on the scoop and switching out defective spotlight servo's. Gets me everytime.

Has scorbit been buggy for anyone else? I’ve noticed the last month or so it sometimes will have a hard time restarting new games - it used to be near flawless. I’ve only noticed it in the last month or 2.

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