Sounds like something is timing out. Does the screen hang for a long time at one step? What's the large or small screen say while it's seemingly frozen?

New problem for me. The center scoop is sending the ball right down the middle every time. Yet the scoop is on a slight angle (I think by design?). Thoughts on how to not have the scoop not return the ball right down the middle every time?

There is a fix in the topic index. Two washers, problem solved. Works perfectly and permanently. One of the first things I did when I got mine.

Click on "Topic Index" at the top of any page in this thread then sort by keypost summary and look in the tech playfield section for the link.

Screen for screen everything is the same as another GNR that takes 48 seconds to boot, just really really slow.
Obviously has something to do with the reboot only during certain songs.
No shaker motor installed.
Feel like nothing else left to reseat.

Is every step displayed on the screen slow, or just certain steps bog down? Maybe record the whole thing (once for each screen) and post to youtube then link here so we can see in real time.

Also, is this an SE or an LE/CE?

It’s SE
Waiting for the boot up video

Here’s the video of the long boot up!
Please figure this out.

My guess is your SSD has a loose connection (on the computer end or the SSD end, or is going bad and the reads are slowed). That file load where it counts up the files that takes yours almost 2 minutes takes 15 seconds on mine.

So, I'd check the connections on both ends. Before you replace the SSD, you can try resetting the motherboard CMOS settings (load defaults) to see if something got corrupted, then do a cold reboot to see if that does it.

It *might* also be RAM, but I kind of doubt it.

JJPPOTC got a little brother! So excited I was finally able to join the club! Got a screaming deal locally on an LE. HUO, only a few hundred plays. All decked out with Liors mods; skull shooter housing, bullet shooter rod, amps. Has mirror blades, lighted flipper buttons, ramp signs, topper. Seller even threw in a Kliptsch sub-woofer. Game is amazing!

My brother who isn't into pinball specifically had played GNR at a local place during my son's birthday party about 6 months ago. He loved it, freaked out when he started a song and played it the whole party. Then we had him over for my daughter's birthday party today. Took him down to the gameroom and didn't tell him I had picked up a GNR. He saw it and yelled, "You got a GNR?!?!" So much fun to see him so into it and rocking out. No other pin he's played on route or in my collection has had the affect on him that GNR does.

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Confirming this is the SSD ?

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Yes, that is the SSD.

Sounds like a sweet machine! Welcome to the club! As a follower of all of your rule and strategy insights on the POTC thread, I’m excited to have you join and give your thoughts on GNR. My first love is still pirates but nothing gets me amped up like GNR!

Im having huge issues with airballs off the PYRO target. I mean like every time it hits it and then it flies all over the pf.

2 things.

1. is there something I should look at with the target?

2. what does everyone think of making an airball protector for there? Could screw into the pop bumper. BUT...those screws are really small. I was looking and perhaps we could attach it to the ramp via the switch or gate that's right there. Thoughts?

This is now live. Thanks Vic!

Is it hopping off record then airball after? I've never had mine do anything but normal after-pyro hit

Yeah, sorry it took until the evening. Had a lot going on and couldn't get the pic for it done until tonight. Realized after the fact that I left the hex cap screws that are in the kit out of the pic. I'll fix it in post.

Get a Phillips head screwdriver and tighten the screws for the hood of the scoop .

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Ordered!
You rock btw!
Not sure i will have an issue w my mag or diverter… but this is good peace of mind.

Ordered. Thanks for putting all of the time in to make these!

Question… the right screw at the top of my left ramp doesnt sit flush like the left screw, its about an 1/8” up. I thought it was just loose and tried to tighten but its as tight as it can get.
Anyone elses pin have this?
Maybe they put the wrong length screw in there???

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Oh! Yes I've had that happen before and come to think of it the record has been getting loose. Ball rests on it again. I haven't tightened it in months.

Thank you! Very smart of you. I'll be checking that first.

P.s. I still think there should be an air ball deflector above that pyro target.

My left guitar lock is stuck in down position. Recommended next steps?

The coil test fires on both guitar locks, but the left one is sitting in a lower position, and doesn’t move as much as the right.

I had this same problem with the right lock after replacing the blue snubbers.

I loosened all the screws for the upper playfield and reseated it. I tightened each screw until it was barely snug, careful not to over tighten. This fixed it 100% for me.

I should have mentioned, as you’re tightening the upper playfield screws, press on the locks to ensure they move freely and adjust the upper playfield as needed. There’s some wiggle room. I think the problem with mine was I over tightened. Hope this helps.

going to check and order now.

Ordered! Definitely peace of mind!

Looked under playfield. Seems that something is up with the spring/washer/lock assembly for my malfunctioning left guitar lock (closest to camera). Seems like I need to adjust this back to match the right assembly. Hope nothing is broken.

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No problem. It took a lot longer than normal as I tried various configurations on the magnet fan to get the noise down and I had the weird phantom temp increases when nothing is happening (ball in shooter lane) that I eventually chalked up to a bug in the software.

Fixed it. Took the assembly out (3 screws beneath playfield). The spring has worked its way past the locking mechanism. Simply twisted the spring back like a screw until it was matching the right side. Works great now.

Nice work! Glad it was a quick and easy fix.

Thanks man! Already blew one magnet coil and have been waiting for these before I installed the new one so I didn’t blow that one also. I assume it’s best to install the new coil before the fans otherwise I’ll have to uninstall the fan to access the coil - right?

Yes, you need to have the coil assembly complete, then install the fan otherwise you have to take it apart to install the coil and re-install the fan.

That assembly should have been made with brass cupped washers that Premier used
or the plastic lipped washer that Bally used on their single D/T.
Looks like the compression spring is snaking past the "E-clip"

Ok, I know several people have had a hard time finding the topper connector so I was prepared for it to be hidden, but I’ve been digging around for a while and I don’t see any sign of it. What am I missing?

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That’s interesting… here’s mine.

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That is interesting because that looks like the right wire since it is connected to back box lighting, but that is a two pin connector and the topper is a three pin connector (with only two wires in it) so that wouldn’t exactly work either. I can always just splice the wires in, but very strange that my wiring harness seems to be missing this.

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Quick Question… the right screw at the top of my left ramp doesnt sit flush like the left screw, its about an 1/8” up. I thought it was just loose and tried to tighten but its as tight as it can get.
Anyone elses pin have this?

Maybe they put the wrong length screw in there?

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Possibly the threads are stripped out.
"Maybe they put the wrong length screw in there?"
True too.

I checked again and traced the yellow/black wire coming from the black conduit.

It looks like it connects to a connector with two blue wires and splits off to provide power the topper and then connects into the PCIe adapter (see the three red arrows in pic).

Just to make sure I’m not going crazy, I checked the instructions that came with my topper. It says to “locate and connect to topper to the spare connector above the I/O board”, so PinGraffix’s instructions line up with the wires in my cabinet.

Attached are two pics, one with the wires I traced and the other with a screenshot from PinGraffix’s instructions. Topper manufacturer shouldn’t matter. It should still use the same available 12v power adapter.

Anyway, I was just confirming to make sure I’m giving you the right info. I didn’t think I changed any cables in the head unit. I just had to find the spare adapter for power.

Hope this helps. Let us know what you figure out.

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Hey CTHOMAS1998 were you able to locate the adapter to plug into?

Dobler is experiencing the same issue.

Both of you have new games so I’m comparing wires in my cabinet to see if something has changed between builds.

Mine is a 10/21 build. Thanks!

Yeah mine is a 2/22 build. In reviewing other pictures for topper install it seems like there are a few variations in the writing harness here which is really weird. There is a spare connector coming off of the yellow and black line, but it is after the PCIe connector and is a four pin connector instead of two or three (circled in red here). I’ll reach out to JJP support and maybe they can send me an adapter so I don’t have to cut and splice wires on my brand new machine.

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So JJP GNRLE #2935 made it home. It was a long wait but worth it. I still need to make a bunch of tweaks and then put some time in learning the rules. I’ve been following this thread for a while, but avoided reading up too much on strategy so I can discover some of it as I go. At some point I’m sure I’ll do more research though.

I have a connection that said one of the GnR band members has agreed to sign the machine for me so I’m pretty excited about that. I’m thinking I’ll pull the apron off to get that signed as soon as I can stand to have the machine out of commission for a few days. Fingers crossed still. I’ll post a pic if/when it happens.

My to do list:

- resolve power connector issue for topper
- install PinMonk fans and airball barrier
- fix right spot light (moves x&y but barely, probably 3D print new parts while I am in there)
- put something on bumper skirt so ball doesn’t get stuck there again
- adjust tilt bob (not centered and very sensitive)
- add washers under scoop to help adjust it (doesn’t go sdtm very often now, but is really close)
- adjust left ramp diverter (needs to rotate clockwise a bit - ball is hitting edge when it is up sometimes and looks like it will rub when going down)
- install new titan flipper rubbers
- install cymbal stickers
- 3D print Marshall amp logos for speakers
- possibly look into additional lights for back glass and under cabinet

I had mirror blades put on when I picked it up and I am shocked that the tech was able to fit them in. Putting the blade protectors on is absolutely necessary now and they are a pain to get in, so lifting the playfield is a bit of a chore unfortunately. I love the look of the blades though so it’s still worth it.

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That's awesome , I would get them to sign using a gold or silver paint pen , otherwise it won't stand out and I'd also like to get them to sign under their image on the back glass .
(if I had that opportunity)

Good Morning! Yes, issue is resolved. I have marked in red ON HIS ORIGINAL PICTURE where the wires are. Mine is the scribble red marking to the left. There are 2 groups of 2 wires each that are bundled together. They loop over the retaining clip, and are fed back down in the black tube. Just have to carefully pull them out of the tube in the direction from how they re-enter the tube. In other words, where it loops over the clip and heads back down in the tube, that is the side you want to pull on. Dobler

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Once you pull the 2 bundles of blue wires out (4 wires total) , ( some have stripes, but all are blue to some degree. I'm sorry, I'm at work and can't open my machine and see.. ), you'll find each has a connector on the end. Only 1 fits the topper. Use it, and you'll be good to go! I ran mine up the left side of the backbox, and behind the speaker to connect to the topper.

Great lookin room, love the kisw poster. Worked in Seattle in late 70s and still have a bunch of their stickers from the concerts then. Have fun with gnr!!!

I did check those screws and those were very tight still. Going to try to put a couple washers under the coil like a couple people recommended.

I had the same issue. I ended up splicing the connection going up to the LED strip to minimize the impact. Pretty easy to do and mitigates the exposure. They did change the wiring harness. Mine is a January 2022 build.

Only problem with that is you lose control of the brightness settings.

Brightness setting on the backbox light? If so, I am okay with that. Didn't even know that was an option to change .