I had a friend print me one and it also had an issue with the infill he slices it with Ultimaker Cura what do you use PinMonk ?

Ideamaker and PRUSASlicer both had no issues. I think it's because they were able to handle the minor errors and slice anyway.

You can download PRUSASlicer and load the original thingiverse file in, then select repair STL file on the file menu and it will make a file that CURA will not complain about. I also made a fixed version of it I can email you if you want to PM me your email.

I forgot to mention, I do have the Pinnovators gizmo and I still had/have the issue. So, my first two days, I did not connect the Polk Speaker and Pinnovator connector. So, for the first 2 days, no issues. Based on first two days of use, thought it was safe to connect up Polk Speaker and Pinnovator connector. So, step two I connected speaker. Worked for 1 day and then on 2nd day, 1 sensor (switch 100) on skill shot board started acting up again and I get auto plunge occurring. So, another issue with board or maybe a bad Pinnovator connector?

I'm currently having an issue with one of the skill shot sensors, too. Mine keeps activating, which results in an auto plunge. Try cleaning the sensor and the corresponding insert. That didn't work for me, but I think others have been successful doing that. I'm still trying to find a solution. Right now, I have just disconnected the data line that goes to the board or otherwise it is unplayable.

Seems like a lot of people are dealing with these issues, me included! I’ve replaced the sensor board, cleaned the optos/inserts, recalibrated more times than I can count, and still the problem persists. I do have an external sub hooked up so I’m curious to hear what comes from that topic, but I have my hookup going through the line out accessory along with my pinwoofer amp. No idea why these two things would be related but at this point I’ll try anything to fix it!

I'm set up same as you, pinwoofer, no issues at all. I cant see how a woofer can cause an issue, mine is directly under the front of the pin, so if vibration was cause, it should affect me as well. Using a klipsch 12" sub

Our GNR had a skill shot issue the moment we powered it up with no modification, and in our case we were able to see it in the switch matrix. Re-seating all connectors fixed the issue, and it has not returned. We've been watching the comments over time (seeing a few different problems associated with the skill shot system) and this appears to be a general quality / reliability issue completely unrelated to PinWoofer or any other mod such as an external sub. There are many sources of vibration on the playfield such as the slings and jet bumpers, etc. that might be in play.

Yeah, I figured this was a stretch. My issue is compounded by the fact that I can't see any errors in the matrix test even when I trigger the shaker. So I have no idea what in the hell is triggering it to launch. Most times it takes several seconds of the ball sitting idle in the trough before it'll eventually auto-launch, other times it's automatic before the ball even hits the trough! Every time though it awards the skill shot before launching, so I have to believe it's an opto issue. But why in the hell none of the previous fixes have failed to correct the issue remains a mystery.

You never know - it might introduce a ground loop, adding noise to the electrical signals and causing the sensor to misfire.

First thing I'd do is unplug any 3rd party electrical addons and see if the problem goes away, then work from there.

I don't have an external sub connected so it's not related to that (for me). I don't get errors either...I think the sensor activates correctly. Why it does it continuously, though, is bizarre.

During a sensor test, my one problem sensor stays green (activated) all the time whereas all the other sensors on that board show as blue unless I place a ball over them, then they also turn green until I remove the ball. When I unscrew the board from the playfield and let it face outward away from the inserts, the problem sensor turns blue and will only turn green when on object is in it's path. So it seems like the sensor works fine. I have even tried realigning the board thinking that maybe it was just screwed into the playfield in a sub-optimal position, but can't seem to find one that works.

Those sound like they could be symptoms of a playfield insert with "crud" on the underside of it - even if it's not visible to the naked eye. Or conversely, is there anything really shiny above it on the playfield? A mod, or a badly aligned catwalk ramp? And as always, make sure you're on the latest software rev.

I cleaned the insert a few times thinking the same thing. I hadn't installed any mods at the time, so that shouldn't be it. Your idea about something above the playfield causing it to register is interesting and I'll investigate that. Thanks.

Your idea to test the board floating out in midair was an excellent one, and it proves that on some level the board works properly. Something about its installed position is weird, and if it's not insert crud, then that doesn't leave much other than whatever is above it on the playfield. but I really can't imagine what that would be.

What are the white, green, and yellow values around that insert right after you run a manual calibration?

Here are the #s. I have no idea what they mean, unfortunately

PXL_20220214_212426193.MP (resized).jpg

Hi all. Thought I would post this video of the LE I just got. This is to highlight the PinGraffix topper and light kit. Really happy with how this turned out. Well thought out and crazy easy to install. I know it was a little pricey, but it is by far the best add-on I have done on a pinball machine. Takes it completely to another level.

Dave

Looks like I generated a lot of comments and discovered many folks had or have auto plunge issues, too. I have talked to JJP tech several times. The first check recommended by them was connectors. In my case, I had several sensors acting as if they were registering a "hit." I could see 4 or 5 sensors "flashing" by going to switch matrix. Thus, auto plunge triggered. As I mentioned, I had a Polk sub with Pinnovator to prevent ground issue. Still, I had problems with initial board and was sent 2nd board. The 2nd board is only acting up for one sensor now. JJP is sending me a third board. Hope that helps some folks as they trouble shoot.

I've been searching the GNR manual until my eyes crossed looking for a list of all rubber rings and parts. I feel like an idiot, but can't find one in the manual. Does anyone know if it's in there, or if not, if anyone has a comprehensive list of all the rubber rings and sizes?

No list in the manual, but titan has lists customers have put together

Are the bulk of these auto-plunge issues in newer builds? I know it's been an off-and-on problem since day one, but there have been more reports recently. Wondering if JJP got a bunch of bad boards in their latest batch.

Thanks, that's actually exactly what I needed the list for - to order a complete set of Titans. And I'm trying to figure out which of the overly-tight rings I need to upsize.

Buy bigger by 1/4" on all the rings

Thanks again @hayfarmer. Just to confirm, all stock rubbers are clear/milky white (other than flippers)?

Translucent is what came stock and what I replaced with. Other colors look great too, personal choice

Sorry for this bad question, but can someone tell me what the size of the nut at the top of the slingshot that holds down the left ramp?

We have done most of our machine in Titan Grey. If you want a photo, please let me know and I will post one!

Sorry for all of these questions. I’ve not changed rubbers on this game before. Can someone let me know how to remove this part holding the catwalk in order to put the ring on?

87A598A1-C5EB-46DA-BBCA-9C4B264B7E27 (resized).jpeg

just unscrew it, its just a threaded post

You can put a deep hex socket on it and loosen it, then finish unscrewing it with your fingers.

I spy. What's wrong with this picture?

IMG_5660 (resized).jpeg

Cura will report if the model is not water tight (happens time-to-time w/Thingiverse files). Not sure if it makes a difference or not, I think it does for resin printing. Fix is to just load into the free Microsoft 3D Builder. 3D Builder will prompt you if you'd like it repaired (yes), then just resave using the standard STL format (3D Builder default is 3MF, just change to STL).

Hope this helps.
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Lights, pyro, and amps still need to be lit

It has been so long since my magnet coil died (before the latest code update, even) that I am not even aware of when it’s supposed to catch a ball anymore. JJP got me a new coil today and I soldered it in, but only had time for one game. Never got a catch up there. Even when extra ball was lit and I hit the orbit. I didn’t pull the glass to test the coil yet (I needed something to do tomorrow anyway), but does it sound like I’ve still got something awry? Really I feel like at least the extra ball is reason enough to catch that loop shot!

How did you go about acquiring the new magnet coil? Was it covered under warranty ? Did you have to contact JJP directly or go through your distributor?

Cheers

Ball Stuck!

I called and emailed JJP. A few times. Probably should have just harassed the disto. BUT, when I sent an email to sales@jjp I got a call back really quickly and they got the coil into the mail and to me within days. Not that I’m sure it’s working yet…

I think if you get the AXL rose patch it won't grab, maybe because you no longer would need the AXL lanes at that point?

Yours came with a power cable , you lucky bastard

This happened to me 3 times in one week, then hasn't happened again since....yet.

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This is correct. The magnet only grabs when you need Axl

The 42 is the current value of the sensor reading (bounces around a lot). The FC is the number the sensor reading has to get higher than, to read as a closed switch (the calibration value). As you can see, 42 is significantly less than FC, so that sensor is not tripped. Therefore the problem is in the switch matrix, not the sensor itself. So we can stop looking for insert grunge or anything above the playfield. Could still be a board issue, solder splash on the connector, something like that, but could also be some sort of wiring/connector issue on the switch matrix wire part of things.

Now that’s flipping interesting, man. Hilarious, on my single test game for my new magnet, the first patch I collect is the patch that turns off the thing I’m hoping to test. Ha!

Thanks! I’ll pull the glass and actually test it today anyway, then not collect the Rose patch so quickly in future games. So no more grabbing for the extra ball, huh?

It’s interesting to hear that auto-plunge issues related to the skill shot optos can be avoided just by unplugging that board. Makes me wonder if the code should be updated to not trigger auto-plunges off the skill shots.

It’s not an exact fix for the problem, but seems it would make it far less of a PITA for those experiencing the issue until JJP identifies a permanent solution.

Update: he has 2 left. You can check out his link if you're interested: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1223-pinball-forever/05388-lead-guitar-figure-jjp-guns-n-roses-

Check page 151 using this manual.

http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/gnr/GNR_Manual_May2021.pdf

Remember most people recommend 1/4 size bigger, I haven’t needed any yet so can’t confirm.

They are just trolling us now.

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Thanks!

It's nice to see their marketing people have a sense of humor.

I just was going to pm you Kerry! I picked one up thanks for helping to facilitate the mod maker to make more.
Harley D.

Sounds like they should be testing those skill shot optos a bit more. The fact they have the balls to make a post like this is mind boggling given the number of issues these games have out of the box.