Best I can do for you is link you to the manual: https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/gnr/GNR_Manual_May2021.pdf

Hope that helps you.

The clear piece tight to the cabinet in the uppermost spot is # 25, on my le.

You’re 100% correct - just looked again at my notes I wrote when I looked at it. It’s #25. I’m trying to match that up to a part number in the manual.

Thank you...I needed that today LOL

Got to love it. Perhaps if someone could take a photo of that region, that will help me match it to the manual. I took dozens of photos, just not of the area I need.

Will this work?

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Here is the one I got from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086LKKYVL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00
Too big for playfield, but good elswhere.

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That’s fantastic. Thanks a lot.

The manual is woefully incomplete. JJP manuals took an immediate dump after they canned Butch, and now that Barry is gone too, I have no idea if it's even on their list to complete the GnR manual.

Update: all the extras I had have been spoken for. That was quick!

Does this help? Mine came broken.

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Thanks a lot. Yes worked it out from the picture. My one came broken too, but now trying to sort it out outside the warranty period - lockdown restrictions at the time it was delivered meant I had to wait quite a while after delivery to inbox things. That, and the scratches instruction card.

Glad you got it worked out. I’m sorry you had to deal with the headache. Hopefully JJP will take care of you.

I'm in no position to measure completeness, but relative to other manufacturers, I've always been impressed with JJP's manuals (including GNR).

It's 233 pages...roughly 4x the size of my JP2 manual. My R&M didn't come with any manual.

GNR LE’s in stock. PM if interested. Michigan JJP distributor.

Compare GnR to PotC. There's a HUGE difference - 233 vs 359 pages. GnR is nowhere near as complete.

GnR has two sections that are completely missing, UNDER Playfield assemblies, and ABOVE playfield assemblies. The stuff that follows is a mishmash of both above and below PF assemblies, and not all of them.

Firing Butch had a very negative effect on JJP documentation quality and completeness. They went from the best in the business by a mile to an also-ran.

You can't count Spooky. They clearly are happy to just be selling anything and documentation for the future isn't a priority.

Whatever. I’ve only owned 2 JJP games (DILE & GNRLE) and the manuals have been just fine for my trouble shooting purposes. Again, relative to other modern manufacturers, JJP is doing just fine. Why you give Spooky a “pass” just shows your bias. All games should have a manual. The extra “head count” to have someone work on a manual is small when compared with the R&D budget for these beasts…

Where did you get the idea Spooky got a pass? They NEVER had manuals. That's not okay, but it's the way it is.

JJP had (past tense) AWESOME manuals that were light years ahead of anyone else because of Butch Peel. Once they fired him unceremoniously, the quality suffered visibly on GnR and to a lesser extent, Wonka. If JJP had never been amazing we would have nothing to compare it to. But they were, so we do. They SET THE BAR and then abandoned it. Spooky never tried. I don't understand why this is a hard concept to grasp.

FYI, Dialed In manual was 372 pages in the PDF, and even MORE for the printed one.

Manual page counts:
Wizard of Oz 468
Hobbit 347
Dialed In 372
PotC 359
<Butch Canned at JJP right around Wonka release>
Wonka 287
GnR 233

See the difference? He was an incredible asset and JJP manuals suffered noticeably since he's gone. This is just the page counts. The layout and organization is crappier in many cases, too.

Well, for those with auto plunge issues, I think a found another reason for this nagging issue. I have an external Polk sub. When I plug or connect the sub, it causes the shooter sensor board to auto plunge. So, if you have auto plunge issues and have an external sub, maybe you might want to disconnect and see if it remedies the issue.

Update...

psexton who made the Slash skeleton mod (below) got back to me. He said he would make some additional ones due to the interest. He said they'll be available on Pinside "For Sale". Stay tuned for those of you who expressed an interest.

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Please update as you hear,

Sounds like maybe a ground issue? Can anyone else with shooter lane issues and a polk external sub try this? Very interesting avenue of inquiry to explore.

Use the Pinnovators gizmo for connecting to the external sub. It isolates the ground.

Shmilder thanks for this tech tip! I started experiencing this same problem. I noticed on mine, the locks didn’t have daylight around them - preventing them from moving freely. I took a pic showing why mine were getting stuck.

With your tip, I was able to loosen the screw and move the guitar head around. Once I saw daylight around the locks, I was able to tighten the head into place. Anyway, as more people start replacing the blue snubbers, this is something to be aware of.

Hope this helps others.

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Anyone with cabinet decal issues? This sucks because I might want to sell my game and would have to disclose this to a new buyer that for some would affect value. I don’t have the time to apply all new decals and not sure if it’s worth my time. Can this be fixed?

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Man, that’s some shitty QC. I would ask JJP to send you new decals to keep on hand in case you sell.

In the meantime, check this tech tip to see if it will help.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/173#post-6245191

Likely fixable. Take off the flipper button and heat the area gently with a blowdryer and use a plastic edge like a wallpaper smoother or a spatula (nothing with a hard 90 degree edge like a butter knife, etc, you want a GENTLE edge so you don't tear it) and smooth the cab decal back out while it's warmed up.

I am happy to report I have just joined the club. Im currently setting up the machine. I noticed this piece of metal coming through the playfield, and there is a piece of Mylar over it. Is this supposed to be here? Sorry for the rookie question, it’s just something I haven’t seen before in other games.

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That is a ball guide and is factory installed. Have fun and go rock your new baby!

Supposed to prevent ’death-saves’ … but it doesn’t if you’re really pissed.

OMG! Earlier today, I got my first chance to hit a 6 ball power chord ever! I was beginning to sweat after putting the fifth ball up in the guitar lock. Then, I nearly jumped out of my skin when I put the sixth ball up the ramp perfectly to claim my reward. Then THIS happened!

All I can say is it's a good thing I still love this game so much

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Game 3418 has landed.

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But what's the actual number (it's on the serial number - the collector's plates don't matter)?

Hi everyone - I have read the key post on the bass stuck ball but it was not 100% clear to me what I was supposed to bend especially when I look at the wireform. My wireform will get a ball stuck on both sides until finally a 3rd ball releases one other ball. Unfortunately the game is impacted by this situation. Can someone explain the fix to me please?

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Take the ramp out and lay on a table . The upper fingers should all be equally bent, mine, the inner 2 were 1/4" higher, causing the ramp to not seat properly. Gently, bend them all down

I fixed mine by just dropping the VUK by one in the settings. The ball was being kicked up too hard and losing the forward momentum required to just roll.

Works really well on my game.

My ignite the flames Multiball is starting at the beginning of the first ball for all players even though the Pyro target has not been hit. Has anyone had this issue?

You have a stuck switch, either the pyro target or the sling nearby.

Yep. Likely your Pyro switch just needs to be gapped a little wider.

I just had this exact issue on my brand new machine and fixed it yesterday. For me, I went into the matrix switched test and saw switch #18 was stuck active. This corresponds to the rubber to the back/left of the spinning record. I remedied by stretching the rubber and bending the metal blade behind it a bit until it was not active when not being touched. No issues since.. at least with that issue. Still working through several more.

Any recommendations to tighten a loose lockdown bar. Since my game arrived there is quite a bit of movement on the right side. I am used to Stern’s that don’t move. Thanks.

Mine had it OOTB too, adjusted the switch gap with a leaf adjustment tool.

That was fun

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Take it off and tighten the two brass screws on the lockdown receiver equally, then reinstall and see if that does it. If not, rinse, repeat until the bar is snug. I had to tighten mine quite a bit. They were so loose they were almost scratching the glass when it was removed because they were so high/loose.

Really, really pissed.

Thanks, everyone. It was the rubber switch. I adjusted it.

Welcome to pinball tech and congrats on your first fix!