The protectors do nothing to protect from pooling and chipping. We have a protector on all our games too. I was hoping that we could just buy a Gunners and play it without fitting a protector.

Anyone got a rubber parts list yet?

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5755

Still empty

Yes, but the primary issues of concern here are the posts, pooling, and rails biting into the playfield. A protector goes Around all of those issue and does Nothing to help?

For any of these playfields pics, can we find out the date on the playfield rather than the manufacturing date? Is that even possible? I wasn’t sure if they are stamped or not? With Mirco’s new process being shown off and the claims being made, it seems that the number one piece of info we need is to learn if/when playfields with this new process started making it into games. All GNRs are young so the production born on date is not quite as valuable just yet. As time goes on, that will be more important, but right now we know they are all too young to be having these problems.

I'm in the same boat almost.
The distributor I purchased from has also heard Zip from JJP.
Well at least not as of yesterday.

Buy it and play it. Mine has over 150 games on it now. Not 1 dimple. The record does dimple a bit but who cares, its pinball. The playfield itself looks perfect.

So my game is broken and has a problem. I thought I would post the details to help others in case this happens to yours.
I did have a tell sign. My contractor was working in the basement and playing. When i stepped up near him I smelled something cooking.
When my Stern Distributor came by the next morning to replace the subway in my Avengers, He played a couple of games and I noticed the Upper playfield Diverter was not going down, in order to access upper playfield.
So I investigated and found these pieces in the Cabinet.
Upon further investigation found they came from the popup diverter assembly.
The Piece is #12 and is called a Jam plate. It screws into the #17 guide bracket.
It must have been loose screws from the factory.
It would be nice if I could just screw the jam plate back and all we be good.

However even manually trying to move the diverter down was not working. There was a restriction inhibiting the coil to move the diverter shaft.
I took some pictures of inside the coil and found the coil sleeve melted inside the coil.
So looks like for starters I need a new coil.

Is this going to happen again?
From the design, It looks like the coil is energized quite often .
Energized = Diverter is up and ball will come back to left inlane
Not energized= Diverter would be down and allow the ball to go to upper playfield.

For now I disabled the diverter, so I do not have access to upper playfield but can still play the game.

The part # shows it is a Williams/Bally FL-11722 from Pinball life.
Just want to make sure its ok to use this?
I dont want to wait for warranty one to be sent out.
When they send me one, I will have one extra.
I just waited 3 weeks for my Stern Avengers new subway to get to me.

20201024_191234 (resized).jpg

20201024_193712 (resized).jpg

20201024_195035 (resized).jpg

20201024_195059 (resized).jpg

20201024_195125 (resized).jpg

20201024_195136 (resized).jpg

20201024_201109 (resized).jpg

20201024_202439 (resized).jpg

new coil fl 11722 (resized).jpg

I have noticed that coil gets HOT after a good session of playing. I've had to resolder a couple wires on the left flipper so far and tweak the right plunger diverter.

As for dimples. I do have them. Don't care. 400 games so far. Home use only.

Im going to look into PinMonk s cooling kit for this game. Flippers get a hard workout on this game and could be very beneficial.

JJP just produced first edition digital manual with latest update that may help confirm part. You can order a coil but also consider carefully drilling the stuck sleeve out and replacing the sleeve if you have one on hand in your parts box. Coils run hot but don’t often go bad. Just a thought to quickly get you back to 100%. Good luck!

from my experience. New coils usually have new sleeves, Correct?

Should come with a sleeve. Just trying to save you a few bucks and back flipping fast if coil is fine. I had this happen on TAF and fished it out without replacing the coil if you have extra sleeves around.
Sounds like you have a backup either way.

47374BA9-2767-43CD-B618-D033E86297F4 (resized).jpeg

I keep a bag of them around. Changing them around 2500 plays keeps the flippers snappy, to me.

Check the transistor that drives it. It is likely bad.

Can someone tell me where to purchase a shaker motor? Ive used the pinball life ones for my stern games, but didnt know if something else was recommended for JJP.

Pinball Life sells the JJP ones also. The SE doesn’t come with a shaker?

Thank you, and no it does not.

Get it right away. Best shaker integration I have seen.

Like Lloyd said, the driver transistor is probably bad. The transistor often fails due to a poorly connected or bad protection diode.

If you just replace the coil, make sure to monitor that coil when you first turn the machine on. If it immediately locks on, shut off the machine before the new coil burns up. Then disconnect the coil and contact JJP support for a new board.

Right or if you have a multimeter, read the transistors on the board behind the monitor. You don't even have to know what values would be correct, just read the one in the row before the suspect one, then the suspect one, then the following one or two in the row. Not ideal or foolproof but if in one of the three reading patterns you find 0.00 on the transistor in Question, dead short and DO NOT power up the game with your new coil before you replace that IRL540 transistor (or get a board advance or whatever you do).

LE/CE owners check upper pf rubber and have backup.
All of mine came w/standard red except that one which was synthetic and tore.
Lasted 131 games - oh well.

BF458BA8-CA66-4745-A041-A7E344B7BE6B (resized).jpeg

I don't have a jjGnR yet, but it's the next on the list of machines I'm converting the coil cooling kit to since I've heard from a number of people with jjGnR that the flippers fade for sure. I hope to have one soon and I should be able use it to make a kit that works for all JJP machines. Shouldn't be too long now that I believe the Spooky kit is done (redesign final, in final field testing).

I have to say, after watching a chunk of that that GnR SE stream, wow.
That’s value for money Vs a Stern Pro IMHO.
Things that impressed me most:-
- Gameplay/ Flow
- Light-show still great!
And of course...... it’s GnR
Don’t think peeps on a budget will be disappointed at all.

Check that the flipper rubber isn’t digging into the ball guide up there. Mine was and I had to slightly bend the guide to stop it.

That did it- quick bend. Thanks man.
Ball guide “before” pic for others to reference:

64541A38-7D99-4FC8-A1D7-DA13D84D9C01 (resized).jpeg

His game looks unlevel, too low on left. Therefore he should extend the left rear leveler and see if that fixes yo issue, homes. Then he should come back here and tells us what worked.

Already posted the fix with pictures.

Cool found it. Your machine has got to be dialed in to the max.

It is now after fiddling with all the little fixes However, the upper flipper rubber thing posted above will now need my attention. Mine is touching when the flipper is fully extended. Its putting a divet in the flipper rubber.

Tough decision now for SE v LE.

SE looks great.

LE - really disliked upper p/f on WOZ but the 6 ball lock and power chord jackpots are a really good extra.

Gonna have to play both and by the time that happens, maybe the playfield issues will have been sorted.

Buying NIB JJP/Stern is now like sticking your hand in a barrel of sand and playing lucky dip

How did you do the quick bend? Looks like a major task to get that guide out. Do you have an after pic?

It doesn’t take much bending. Just take a skinny nut driver or something that can get under there and give it a quick push out. Yeah if you want to remove the ball guide completely it would be a major PITA.

Also if you just throw a superband on that flipper that may be enough as they are not quite as thick.

I put superbands on all 4 flippers as the JJP stock flipper rubber is terrible and wears super fast. Also the silicone sling rings are bad. Wear out way faster than they should.

There's a bracket right by the flipper that goes through the upper playfield, plus that guide is pretty thick. I can't get it to bend

Needle nose pliers or a bigger screw driver.

Says 30 days when I read it.

Ok, easiest way to bend the upper bracket is this. Remove the Axle sculpt by removing the 2 nylock nuts. Once that's off, there's a screw holding the end of the bracket in place. You can gain a little bit of clearance by adjusting the bracket there. I had to gain a bit extra with some pliers. Once that sculpt is removed, its so much easier to maneuver and see what you're doing without damaging anything.

thanks that sounds like a plan.
Are you referring to the main board? Is the diverter resistor on the main board?

Well done!

I don't see schematics for GNR, but if it's the same as Wonka, the drive 'transistor' is on the IO PCB Assy, All Drives Populated (ADP) board 15-004001-01.

Aside from the underside space issues I love this idea. Could very easily be adapted to add 'hidden' power supply for lighting
The exposed wiring for spot lights remains a pet peeve.

It was a great video Kevin. This will be my reference as to how to unbox my LE when it arrives in a month's or two time.

Hi voigtstr, I'm considering one also, there might be a heap of GnR in Tassie Do you know if yours will be in the first or second shipment? Sounds like there will be two shipments, first being Dec/Jan (I bet Jan) and the second Jan/Feb, which I guess could blow out to March or even later which is when I would expect to get mine if I ordered now.
No-one really knows yet, but I would expect delays, then if it's not delayed it will be a happy surprise

Have you spoken to Paul .

Yep, I had a brief conversation with him early last week, he said he didn't have much solid info but from what I remember there was going to be two shipments and the first was filled. But he wasn't even sure if both shipments could perhaps come at the same time. I guess they won't due to the popularity, but as I said no-one really knows yet.

But if you know more definite time lines or any different info then I would be happy to be better informed, he may know more now than he did last week

Saw Paul last week and had a flip. Pretty sure it's a January delivery, maybe late December if we're lucky. Or at least that's the latest info he told me.

Now we're out of lockdown hoping to go there Friday , maybe he will have some more info .

Added a subwoofer over the weekend and WOW what a difference. I went with the Sony SACS9. Can't speak to the difference between it and the Polk PSW10 which seems to be the incumbent favorite; but: had read a few places that the Sony had much more bang for a little more buck. Blown away by the difference it makes.

I know this has been covered elsewhere, but: I had never added a sub to a pin before. Couldn't be easier, but: hoping this helps the next batch of GNR owners.

I bought a set of alligator clips from Amazon.
amazon.com link »

Lift the playfield. You're going to attach to the in-cabinet sub mounted at the bottom of the cabinet. Check alligator clip size to make sure they fit snugly across the red and black terminals where factory wires are soldered.

Grab some 14 gauge speaker; cut two 5' or so pieces. Strip both ends of both wires, attaching alligator clips to one side of each wire. (note: you could solder them on for overkill, but: not necessary).

Remove two of the bolts holding one of the protective screening at the back bottom of the cabinet. Basically: whichever one you want the wires to be dropping down through (for me, the right side).

Connect the wires to either the Left or the Right input on the sub (making sure red and black are together on whichever one you choose).

Set volume and cutover frequency to about 60% of maximum (my preference; nice balance of blasting the game room w/out quite shaking the whole house).

Turn up GNR volume and rock out.

ps: here's a link to the sub I bought:
amazon.com link »

I also did this last week. Same method. I had a spare 12" polk sub I used. Makes an INCREDIBLE difference. Honestly, JJP would have done well to offer a subwoofer upgrade kit for this title.

tbh - they make a huge diff in any pinball machine. I always tell people new in the hobby - don't waste time with updated speakers, go for the external sub first and then go from there. Such a big diff to have an external. In fact, I will sometimes remove the sub from inside the cab to avoid glass shake and just rock external.