Fellas, after 7 months it turns out that my machine is no longer undefeated, I got my game February 19/21(PF made Nov,23/20).
About 1.5-2 months ago I went over 2,000 games, and yesterday while doing maintenance (Wax, a new MOD and 1st time in my life a blown rubber) I found a few details in my playfield after all this time playing and my wife abusing of my Pinball.

I really don’t want to dwell about it (happened to me too and period!) but I just had to share it here

... (I thought my playfield was made out of Adamantium or was built with that polyalloy like a T-1000 ... or was possessed who knows lol )

Anyway, bolted to my place.

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If you are an SE owner and know what a PINOUT is please send me a msg.

And, do we know if there is a manual available online? a PDF or anything?

Thanks y'all.

Some great tips from you all!!! Game plays a lot nicer now!

Changing the flippers (left a bit higher, right a bit lower) -> backhand to upper play field now 9 out of 10
+
Tweaking the left orbit -> the ball goes straight to your flipper instead of slingshot...great flow!! (the metal where the ball leaves the orbit needs some bending/tweaking)

mine's onroute as well. I am sure it will make my original idea look like a piece of S#!~. Pinmonk is crazy about fine tuning to the best possible result. My original idea was i want that ball not passing this point and it worked. Now it will look like it came from the factory like this.

Manual is downloadable from JJP website and also in the service menu viewable onscreen under the utilities menu.

Amazing you lasted this long with November playfield and metal washers torqued to God knows what ..

Good news is Looks repairable with some heat and replacing the metal with the PETG clear washers.

Sucks, but you know what to do.

You KNOW what do to.

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I waited all this time to bulletproof. Did so last weekend and since then the only issue I’m having is this same post by the backstage that just won’t hold. Has twice flown out after adding the petg washer like every other post. Everything else is just fine. Think this post is too slim for the hole made for it.

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This is what I did. Worked like a charm!

Buy the William Bally Post and screw it down into that T-nut down there, then back that T-nut with a nylon nut onto the posts threads. The post will not come out again and remain nice and tight. The W/B post have a slightly larger diameter to eat up all the room in those drilled holes as well.

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Apologies if this has already been covered extensively, but is there a reliable way to stop plunges (and auto launches) from going straight down the middle? I lose far too many balls because they get auto launched, hit tip tip of the sling shot, and then bounce straight down the middle, out of reach of either flipper.

I think you don't want both the JJP black washer AND the clear PETG. Pick one, preferably the clear.

Indeed Vireland, I’m grateful with this thread

Give it a nudge when it hits the top of the sling.

Where can I find a replacement for the blue nubs,I remember someone used a toilet part to replace a torn nub?

It’s a cliffy carbon ring, then washer above that. Did so to EVERYTHING. Probably 30 posts since that’s what I ordered and they’re all gone.

I ordered from JJP. Part 25-100007-00.

Since that will take forever to ship to my side these days, I’ll see if in the meantime I can find one off my wpc games. Hope there’s a fitting one in an earth shaker. I have a whole playfield taken apart. I’m goin to order a couple anyway, can you tell me which one is best? There are so many post options on Marcos. Thanks !

Can anyone tell me the name of the connector for the backbox led strip? Looking to mod but utilise the og connector. Cheers

I am glad to know that this issue isn't isolated to me. Can you guys kindly post your solution with the lockdown bar if you resolve it?

Easiest way to self-diagnose is to install the lock bar with glass off and playfield up; that way you can look inside and see what’s not lining up.

For me, it’s the sliding portion of the receiver on the left-hand side; I have to push it up slightly while pushing the lockbar down.

Yes, I recommend following the "PoPs" (pioneers of protection) procedure , Doug and Mark, Thanks guys for worthy solution to the 3 oversized holes.
Install some kickass tnuts and longer posts with lock nut, Cliffy carbon and PETG to minimise post movement at these high impact zones.
I maintained factory washers against Fooflighters (thanks Damo for your incredible dedication and providing such awesome detailed advice.)
to be able to pull up on the PETG tight, this allows the outer edges of the PETGs to not dig into the clear.
In saying this I am fortunate to have playfield with rock hard clear.
I found the BW posts would not fit at these 3 locations without being drilled or forced, so I passed on that.

Its such a great feeling to finally be able to enjoy playing this incredible game.

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Does the flat side of the washer go down or up when installing?

Flat side should be down on top of the PETG
In saying that, looking at my pix, I may have 1 or 2 arse about. That might be a good thing ? Thinking about it if the " high side " centre of curved washer is forcing down centre of PETG, this allows outer edges of PETG lift ever so slightly and not to dig into clear.

I was upset early on but I’ve done a 180 since .I think zaphX had said something like “why worry over something you can’t control ,play the shit out of it and back yourself up with the new PF next year “.Something like that anyway .I’ve just done the basic areas best I could ,tweaked what I had to tweak ,and have been enjoying the shit out of playing it again .I’m so glad I didn’t sell it .I like pins that break from the norm and this game is on its own .Now for some fans and side art since it’s staying home where it belongs .By the way ,how’s the Scorbit ? I’ll read up on it but was wondering how people are liking it .Thank You to zaphX ,yelobird ,and Mike at GAP for being very helpful when I was losing my shit .Rock on pinheads !

… that’s true Vespula, it was a long time ….and 5 balls all games since day one …

Link for kickass tnut
Thanks Doug AUS11 !
https://www.amazon.com.au/10-32-Deluxe-6-Prong-T-Nuts-Pcs/dp/B0002ZPEU4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=%2310-32+Deluxe+6-Prong+T-Nuts+50+Pcs.&qid=1631366452&s=home-improvement&sr=1-1

Link for longer posts

Thanks Cooked 71

I think that the longer posts are in the PL kit
https://www.pinballlife.com/jersey-jack-pinball-guns-n-roses-pinball-post-spacerprotector.html

Moles 0.093” 2-circuit (Below is what I used from Amazon; certainly these are cheaper through Mouser or your local joint)

https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Connector-Matched-2-Circuits-Hanging/dp/B074G5PQHL

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Got it. It takes a while but it ended up being the brass screws needed adjustment. Got to play around with it till you find the sweet spot. I found it easier to remove the glass and lift the playfield up so you can look inside

Worked like a champ. Hits the the left flipper every time!

Have had clear washers on for a couple months I guess.

This is happening at about 4 or 5 of the 25ish I put on.

Left sling, middle under left ramp, pyro post, bottom pop bumper post are the ones that come to mind.

This time I hair dryer and flattened them and all it did was look like it started peeling. I tried to get it to push back down and it did but it still doesn't look the same. So some of my washers just pushed the pooling out further. High traffic areas. Curiously none of the ones in the Axl lanes did it tho.

This photo was pretty typical of the ones that needed attn.

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Get the longer T-nuts so they come up closer to the top of the playfield so there's more support and less room for the post to move when hit.

Awesome thanks!

None of the posts were in t nuts. No, one was. Yes one on the left. The rest were just a thru bolt and a lock nut on the bottom.

Strategically placed piece of drop dead ball foam or other type of material on the metal ball guide. It slows the ball down just enough to drop to the right flipper rather than SDTM or the top of right slingshot. Highly recommend.

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Iirc you were advised a while back by fooflighter to remove the metal washers and go petg only and you opted to leave them? If so, I believe this would be the expected result.

I was just going off the one in your picture. T-nut is too short.

Little shop of games also sells them. I just got a set.

New decal

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There seems to be so many different ways about "bulletproofing" these post problems. From what I've read in this thread, I feel the longer t-nut and longer post with a nylon lock-nut underneath, along with a washer up top is the best prevention method (in my opinion). Does pinball life sell these and can someone link me to the correct ones to purchase? I'm FINALLY receiving my LE this weekend that I ordered back on October 8 last year. I want to be prepared to change the posts out as soon as possible and install my cliffies that have been sitting in my toolbox for almost a year now.

I can't wait to play this game. I've only played one game on an SE so I'm really looking forward to my first time on my very own LE.

Check your clear. There is so much product on these affected games. My July build clear is super thin and no issues. Not sure all this is necessary. But if it gives you peace of mind go for it.

Congrats! October 8? you ordered direct?

The links are contained at the key posts at the top of the page just expand them, you can reference the bulletproofing thread fooflighter and also the post and tnut thread by @cooked71.

Everyone does their own little tidbits to bullet proof the game, but it's all basically the same concept.

I ordered the Clear PETG washers and some of the Williams Bally Posts all from PBL.

Washers: I ordered (35) 3/4" and (10) 7/8" washers

https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

Posts: I had ordered (14) of the W/B Posts

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base.html

I replaced every posts where there is heavy ball action with these W/B posts, all the posts that was replaced were thinner then the W/B had the hex base on them with black washers installed underneath.

In addition I used the removed black washers on all other posts in the game where there is very minimal ball action, so in the end every post in the game has a washer under them. Just remember when you tighten them, tighten them to a snug and a fraction more "Don't Gorilla tighten it"

While you have everything apart, be sure to install the Cliffy scoop protectors, stock one is okay but over time wear will occur in front of the scoop.

Take your time and the game will give you enjoyment for a very long time.

Thanks for recapping that DeathHimself . Very helpful.
Did you order any of the taller Tnuts?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4410-01118-00

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Parts Express #10-32 Deluxe 6-Prong T-Nuts 50 Pcs.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPEU4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_6K6DV97CTPBQ3E99WZY1

Six blades, ... $10 bucks for 50
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No I did not, if you look at the W/B posts that I used the shank is wider and longer that goes deeper into the hole, if I ordered the larger T nuts I'm not a 100% certain they would have fit with their longer neck. So either the t nut or post may have not seated all the way in, so I left the stock ones just to be sure.

The only thing I did was the washer and LED light strip mod. I have it tide into the game so the LEDs match. 62 for the right side and 42 for the left side. It makes it really glow. I am really enjoying the game.

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Only one of them had a washer on it. 2 of them were actual posts with rubbers on them. One of them did not have a washer on it from as I didn't put it back on.

However, there are some still with the washer on them and this has not happened. In fact, there are no signs of it even beginning to happen.

So I did an experiment so to speak. I mixed it up to see about the results. The results are that it doesn't matter. Maybe I over tightened? Maybe it's the t-nuts. I don't know. But I do know that with, or without, a metal washer, this is still happening. Post, pole, through bolt, T-nut, metal washer or not... it still happens and it's fairly random.

haha yeah I saw that THAT one is the one! That's a great eye man! I appreciate it. I'll be looking into the longer t-nuts. Thanks homie!

Correct - if you were to use a BW post and longer tnut it won’t screw in.

On the 3 high impact problem posts where the longer tnuts are needed, the holes are bigger than even the BW posts- there’s no way you can fill the hole as it was drilled to accommodate a tnut. These are the only posts on the Playfield drilled like this.

The other benefit of the longer tnut is the substantially bigger base underneath.

But if the bw posts are doing their job on those 3 then that’s another easy option.

I’ve used bw posts on all other through hole (non tnut) posts and they’re great. Though some of the newer builds say the new holes are smaller for these posts as the bw ones don’t fit and probably aren’t needed.

I apologize if this was already covered but has anyone else seen the Limited Edition new price tag at 11,000?