I am saving my last brain cells to waste on beer. I don't want to learn new skills at this stage of my life.

My time is more valuable to me in leisure. My mate who is a tech was here yesterday doing an MRS switch under the top playfield of my Rob Zombie. He won't take cash direct because we are mates, but $100 went on his tab so i can pay for his room next time we go to Pinfest or travel away to compete.

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He left his present behind by accident too.

I just used a hair dryer to warm up the area a bit and then tightened the PETG washer down. If you then remove the PETG washer, you will see the area is perfectly flat again after this. It seemed to work perfectly for me without the need to buy an iron.

Scary to see just how soft the clear coat is if it softens with a quick blast from a hair dryer!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TQWK6

It really is.

We have seen recent photos of metal washers on top of petg washers causing pooling. Proper is to remove metal washers and use petg only. I see you used both in some of your pics. Just trying to be helpful.

Thanks and yes, I'm aware. I will monitor the posts closely and will make corrections as needed if there's any sign of pooling/chipping.

BTW, how are you guys getting that post out under the right ramp? I assume it's a PITA and the right ramp has to come off? Not looking forward to that one.

Removing the right ramp is pretty easy. Looks worse that it is.

Actually it’s not a hard game to work on. The upper pf is probably the trickiest, but just because of the cables and zip ties underneath. But it’s very well designed to be easily removed.

OK, so right ramp has to come off...I'll get around to installing a PETG on that post soon. I already had the upper PF off to install the PETG on that u-turn post and it wasn't too bad. This game is relatively easy to work on. Is JJP selling the spare playfields yet? I'd like to order one to have on hand so I can play the crap out of this one.

They will sell them after all 'normal' production is done....somewhere next year. For now they use all their fields for orders eg backorders.

Would you still put them under the slings if the black washers are there or do those existing washers do the trick?

Mine had it too. Straight out of the box. There’s some under the hinge when it’s upright. I know you can’t see that but I know it’s there.

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$16,850 and that's how they ship it?

They are giving us the finger.

I wouldn't be so quick to assume malice.

Might have even shipped intact and lifted en route due to temperature/humidity changes.

Warm it a little, smooth it down.

Looks just like the wrinkling on mine! I wonder if it happens when the head is folded for the first time otherwise they need a new decal installer. It’s a flat surface so it can’t get much easier. I’ve had years of experience stretching realigning and manipulating graphics on dirt bikes with not a flat surface on it and multiple compound curves that looked better so I know it can be done!

I saw some of the date pics from Aus and they appear to be March. Is this the case for all the current Aus shipment?

I can't understand why you keep apologizing for them.
Problem after problem, this one is widespread. The person who put the stickers on didn't give a fuck, their supervisor doesn't give a fuck and the management doesn't give a fuck.
All the machines in this container have just got lifting art on the cabs by the look of things. And you are saying it happened inside the box after it was packed? Bull. Shit

This is how you run a successful business into the ground.

No shit! If that’s the case then sending you a new side art decal will show up wrinkled too!

Mine was a build date of June and arrived within a week of the build date and only had to be shipped half way across the states that are in an extreme drought.

I'm saying maybe_. Don't assume negative intent.

I honestly do not believe JJP is shipping stuff with damage like this on purpose...because yes, it would not be good business.

It does look fixable so I'd at least try since that takes 5 minutes. If it's not fixable I'd request a sticker.

It's not on my machine. it's on the machines of the two people i know who had theirs delivered this week and most all of the aussies on here are saying that the machines that came out of the same container have the same problem.

I don't have the faith in JJP to give them the benefit of the doubt lately.

Have you repaired any decals? It is not as easy to fix as you think. Once they are stretched, they are fucked. Remove, start again. Replacing a side decal would take at least a few hours, not 5 minutes.

I do agree with you it is not on purpose but I fully agree with punkin that the workers and QC managers in the factory do not give a fuck. This has not happened in the container to Australia, it left the factory like that.

Lets see how the Aussie distro handles these few issues. That is after all what determines a good business relationship, how issues are resolved.

Yeah, it completely depends on the nature of the bubble. At any rate I hope it's resolved to your satisfaction.

I really wish Radcals were the norm. Those things are really, really hard to mess up.

I had some scrapes on a POTC decal and bought a Radcal set to cover them with. Came out super sweet.

Paul is a great bloke, he doesn't deserve what the factory are doing to him. He'll do all he can for those affected.

https://pinballsales.com.au/

I’m one of the Aussies in the latest container and I can vouch on 2 accounts
#1 My machine arrived with damage on the decal around the hinge, a broken plastic and also wouldn’t even work when I first turned it on
#2 Paul was very helpful in getting the computer rebooted through an unconventional method and my machine started
No one explained how a fly got into the pinball and survived the trip - where was the QC there

It’s like the laminating has lifted from the vinyl. It flattened a little but still creased.
Paul is sorting this out for me.

That is good to know about the Radicals.. Thanks!

Great feedback. That is good news.

Just did the update over wifi to 1.23 and it wiped out all of my high scores and settings. Is this normal? Do I really have to backup my scores and settings to USB before an update? Takes some of the simple wifi update convenience out of it if I have to break out the USB anyway.

Well the downside is they don't make Radcals for Guns except for the CE.

Did the same yesti and mine are all still there?

NotThatI'mProudOfAnyOfThemPunkin

How did the MRS work out for you?

JJP use coated Panels not bare wood, we replaced the right side decal on over 40 Pirates as they were scratched going into the boxes at the factory, and it was easy

2 ways to fix, hair dryer and a wallpaper roller to flatten out the decal or

you remove the 2 hinge bolts and cabinet bolt, peel off the decal, clean with wax and grease remover, and apply the new decal, 30 mins tops

I have done heaps of them

Just to clarify which are the “problem” 10-32 posts that should be fixed. There’s 3:

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And from under the pf, this is what the replacement larger/longer t-nuts look like after replacement. You can see the size difference compared to the normal t-nuts:

018A2B99-BC75-4BAF-AA27-9806F5CD66A3 (resized).jpeg

This is my post setup for those posts in particular - in order: Mylar, silicone, Petg washer, small metal washer, longer post, nylock nut under pf:

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It’s probably overkill but after 150 plays so far as good as new:

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And the the other posts that ideally should be replaced with the Bally Williams style posts are these: old style:
FDA29C0C-DDB2-4EF8-9588-F984C9EC7583 (resized).jpeg

New style BW:2B58D59F-43DE-4FAD-B762-EFB79941E4F9 (resized).jpeg

Note that the posts you swap for the Bally Williams posts are the same longer posts you actually need for the 3 problem posts mentioned in my post above. So no need to buy the longer posts if you are swapping to BW style - you can just use the old posts leftover.

And some examples of posts that should be swapped to BW style:
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Under the BW posts I used: Mylar, silicone washer, small metal washer, BW post.

There’s quite a few of these that can be changed, but some require a fair bit of dismantling to get to. Luckily the easy ones to replace are some of the most problematic:
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Those ones are $15490

It’s a bit rough that you’ve got to do all this work to make sure the playfield doesn’t bork out after 50 plays when this should’ve been done at factory. I want to play a machine not take it apart before I can play it.

And let’s not mention the fact that they’re more expensive than a small car with a warranty that you may as well use as toilet paper but in saying that you’d probably tear your ass open with it if you indeed used it as tp…

100% agree.

And the ridiculous price makes it worse because the more invested, the more care you want to take.

What an awesome game though.

Just had my best game so far - what a rush:

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And how good is this upper Playfield!

I’m yet to play one. And this lock down will extended that AT MINIMUM until October! Lucky I’ve got all my games keeping me company

If the Aussie shipping container is all March builds then they’ve been in there for almost 4 months and who knows where. I’d expect to see melting decals & damage

I agree with you as I just spent hours installing cliffy’s, putting carbon fibre rings and Petg posts under ever potential problem post. Brand new game and I turn it on to find….. no signal on the screen after hot rails worked for 2 secs. Nothing else works WTF

They were in containers for the usual 2 months (approx). Every game, ever, coming into Australia comes in the same way - Stern/Spooky/JJP. I’ve never seen the wrinkles seen on these games. That’s definitely from the factory.

Check your USB connectors at the computer enclosure in the backbox.

I don't get it ?

My CE clear is set rock solid, It's like glass, you can't push into it with fingernail.
I dunno WTF the Mirco process is and how some PF's are fine and others are soft ?

Pulled out every connector and put back in. Fans come on and led strip in the backbox and that’s it. I reckon PC is dead. Had the machine 2 days and haven’t been able to play it yet

Double check all the connectors I/O PCB and PC and make sure there are no pinched wires
Im in Brissie and happy to help if you get stuck.

Are all the red lights lit on the big circuit board below the computer motherboard in the big metal box?

Do you know which motherboard is in yours? Is it the ASROCK H310C?

All the red lights next to the fuses are on and the one under the little USB on the right

I'd try kickstarting the computer motherboard. Can you take a picture or two of it so I can see which one you have in yours. It could be any one of 3 or 4 JJP has used.