Guns N' Roses (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2020
Guns N' Roses (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2020
Guns N' Roses (SE)
Jersey Jack, 2020Quoted from allsportdvd:After a long wait it’s finally here!
Manufacturing date May 2021
[quoted image]
Congrats! Mine is in the same batch but still waiting on delivery. Hoping these lockdowns don't delay it further. ETA = next week. I'd be keen to know if yours has all the washers in place from the factory.
Quoted from zaphX:I noticed some power drop and did a rebuild at 3200 plays. PinMonk's fans help a lot too.
Okay, you twisted my arm .. ordered a kit
Finally installed fully Cliffy protectors and PETG washers in all high risk areas. Time to play first game on GNR LE after months of waiting Going to update code first and then give it a go. Woohoo!
07CD7724-054F-4D1B-B60E-68CD461A5B1B (resized).jpeg1934DCD1-ECF9-4618-830E-7D34F489496E (resized).jpeg1EE19EAE-3A24-4E7A-9523-1A4939CE043C (resized).jpeg2B806C55-992D-4431-B36B-E0CCF37C4FBD (resized).jpeg5844A143-EE1C-43FC-A978-746F99357E04 (resized).jpeg5A1A2BEC-F071-4E17-9658-C44C0071859E (resized).jpeg628DD5FF-D6D9-439D-8662-70BCB4394DEE (resized).jpeg696F14C7-93B1-4A15-B58F-302E4012AE62 (resized).jpeg6E8DB686-C8E4-4781-80C5-8E8A7044A4F2 (resized).jpegC7445B47-C3D4-48E5-9C97-67329932A6F1 (resized).jpegCE758DA7-106A-40C2-8BEC-BF502A767416 (resized).jpegD6CD50EC-687F-4CBB-A782-55ECB9A1D15D (resized).jpegFD48111F-3FDB-42B2-AA78-AA29E1965733 (resized).jpegFFC00660-51E7-4E1C-932B-CE7F71917881 (resized).jpegQuoted from Vernisious:Who is your distributor? I ordered Oct 2020 and still waiting.
Ordered from Chris at Pinball Pirate in Benicia and Michelle delivered it in the box in their truck. They would have assembled it for me but I wanted to do the out of box thing….
Quoted from DeathHimself:What I started doing (and still doing lol) before even playing or any damage can occur, I started replacing all the high traffic posts that fit loosely in their holes with the Williams Bally posts that are a bit more beefier in conjunction with the PETG washers.
[quoted image]
@deathhimself.... How many of those post need to be replaced?
Mentioned this before, but just re-posting since thees been a few new unboxings since. You guys should be replacing those problematic 10-32 t-nuts with these:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4410-01118-00
From memory there are only 3 of the really problem posts - the upper PF post (top right near the lane that feeds the guitar neck) and the 2 posts above the pops, just below the AXL lanes.
In these posts they,ve used short/small 10-32 t-nuts and shorter posts that dont protrude below the PF. These are very high impact posts so the post would work itself loose and then the wiggle room caused by using a small and short t-nut and short post resulted in alot of movement and severe chipping around the posts.
Later builds they've changed to a longer post, with a Nylon nut unnderneath, but still the same small t-nut. Whilst better, this small t-nut will allow for movement on those posts because they are so high impact.
The 10-32 t-nut with 7-16 shaft height linked above almost comes to the surface of the pf and the baseplate is much bigger. Combined with the longer posts that extend through the pf and a nut on the underside, this will eliminate most movement. You can see here the OG JJP t-nut on the left and the replacement Marco one on the right.
My personal approach for these 3 posts was:
- Larger t-nut
- Longer post (as linked in above posts)
- Mylar
- Petg washer
- Small metal washer to stop the post pulling through the PETG washer
They are rock solid.
Note that the BW style posts also mentioned here are not suitable for these 3 problem posts as they use t-nuts and the BW posts are still much smaller than the hole diameter because of the t-nut. The BW posts are definitely a recomended replacment for ALL the other through hole (ie. non t-nut) posts on the PF. I swapped them all - it's quite a few.
Quoted from cooked71:Mentioned this before, but just re-posting since thees been a few new unboxings since. You guys should be replacing those problematic 10-32 t-nuts with these:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4410-01118-00
From memory there are only 3 of the really problem posts - the upper PF post (top right near the lane that feeds the guitar neck) and the 2 posts above the pops, just below the AXL lanes.
In these posts they,ve used short/small 10-32 t-nuts and shorter posts that dont protrude below the PF. These are very high impact posts so the post would work itself loose and then the wiggle room caused by using a small and short t-nut and short post resulted in alot of movement and severe chipping around the posts.
Later builds they've changed to a longer post, with a Nylon nut unnderneath, but still the same small t-nut. Whilst better, this small t-nut will allow for movement on those posts because they are so high impact.
The 10-32 t-nut with 7-16 shaft height linked above almost comes to the surface of the pf and the baseplate is much bigger. Combined with the longer posts that extend through the pf and a nut on the underside, this will eliminate most movement. You can see here the OG JJP t-nut on the left and the replacement Marco one on the right.
[quoted image]
My personal approach for these 3 posts was:
- Larger t-nut
- Longer post (as linked in above posts)
- Mylar
- Petg washer
- Small metal washer to stop the post pulling through the PETG washer
They are rock solid.
Note that the BW style posts also mentioned here are not suitable for these 3 problem posts as they use t-nuts and the BW posts are still much smaller than the hole diameter because of the t-nut. The BW posts are definitely a recomended replacment for ALL the other through hole (ie. non t-nut) posts on the PF. I swapped them all - it's quite a few.
Interesting. Great info. Question. When you install the new and bigger nut, do you rotate the nut to create three new teeth gauges in the underside of the playfield or do you come close to the original teeth marks from the old post?
Quoted from cooked71:Mentioned this before, but just re-posting since thees been a few new unboxings since. You guys should be replacing those problematic 10-32 t-nuts with these:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4410-01118-00
From memory there are only 3 of the really problem posts - the upper PF post (top right near the lane that feeds the guitar neck) and the 2 posts above the pops, just below the AXL lanes.
In these posts they,ve used short/small 10-32 t-nuts and shorter posts that dont protrude below the PF. These are very high impact posts so the post would work itself loose and then the wiggle room caused by using a small and short t-nut and short post resulted in alot of movement and severe chipping around the posts.
Later builds they've changed to a longer post, with a Nylon nut unnderneath, but still the same small t-nut. Whilst better, this small t-nut will allow for movement on those posts because they are so high impact.
The 10-32 t-nut with 7-16 shaft height linked above almost comes to the surface of the pf and the baseplate is much bigger. Combined with the longer posts that extend through the pf and a nut on the underside, this will eliminate most movement. You can see here the OG JJP t-nut on the left and the replacement Marco one on the right.
[quoted image]
My personal approach for these 3 posts was:
- Larger t-nut
- Longer post (as linked in above posts)
- Mylar
- Petg washer
- Small metal washer to stop the post pulling through the PETG washer
They are rock solid.
Note that the BW style posts also mentioned here are not suitable for these 3 problem posts as they use t-nuts and the BW posts are still much smaller than the hole diameter because of the t-nut. The BW posts are definitely a recomended replacment for ALL the other through hole (ie. non t-nut) posts on the PF. I swapped them all - it's quite a few.
That is really good info. Thanks for taking the time to post, appreciate it.
Quoted from melumga:Congrats! Mine is in the same batch but still waiting on delivery. Hoping these lockdowns don't delay it further. ETA = next week. I'd be keen to know if yours has all the washers in place from the factory.
Mine is from the same batch. Has washers on the slings but that’s it.
Quoted from cooked71:Mentioned this before, but just re-posting since thees been a few new unboxings since. You guys should be replacing those problematic 10-32 t-nuts with these:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4410-01118-00
From memory there are only 3 of the really problem posts - the upper PF post (top right near the lane that feeds the guitar neck) and the 2 posts above the pops, just below the AXL lanes.
In these posts they,ve used short/small 10-32 t-nuts and shorter posts that dont protrude below the PF. These are very high impact posts so the post would work itself loose and then the wiggle room caused by using a small and short t-nut and short post resulted in alot of movement and severe chipping around the posts.
Later builds they've changed to a longer post, with a Nylon nut unnderneath, but still the same small t-nut. Whilst better, this small t-nut will allow for movement on those posts because they are so high impact.
The 10-32 t-nut with 7-16 shaft height linked above almost comes to the surface of the pf and the baseplate is much bigger. Combined with the longer posts that extend through the pf and a nut on the underside, this will eliminate most movement. You can see here the OG JJP t-nut on the left and the replacement Marco one on the right.
[quoted image]
My personal approach for these 3 posts was:
- Larger t-nut
- Longer post (as linked in above posts)
- Mylar
- Petg washer
- Small metal washer to stop the post pulling through the PETG washer
They are rock solid.
Note that the BW style posts also mentioned here are not suitable for these 3 problem posts as they use t-nuts and the BW posts are still much smaller than the hole diameter because of the t-nut. The BW posts are definitely a recomended replacment for ALL the other through hole (ie. non t-nut) posts on the PF. I swapped them all - it's quite a few.
So this
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base.html
And this
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4410-01118-00
For at least three?
This game is absolutely incredible, wow. The “Shall we play a game” mode tripped me out. War games anyone, lol? The light shows and videos unique to each song are just awesome, Live and Let Die is something to see. Can’t wait to dig deeper into this game. I managed 1.4M after about 5 games, lol. Starting to figure out the shots.
I tried doing the latest full code update on my game, but it’s looking for a keyboard when I boot from the USB stick I wrote to with UNETBOOTIN. Any ideas? Should I just do the delta update instead?
D52F1317-B2E5-4A72-9D2D-C542981D10EE (resized).jpegWell a couple of disappointing things right out of the box 
Bit of bubbling on the cabinet decal next to the hinge
A broken bit of plastic at the duff ramp
And somehow there is a fly alive and flying around inside the playfield lol
12D30268-AC94-48BF-949E-889CEFD964D7 (resized).jpeg30987D24-C256-4307-90A6-3EF62FB1C673 (resized).jpegA2031218-3C61-4EE3-A3CD-B26317C915B6 (resized).jpegQuoted from allsportdvd:Well a couple of disappointing things right out of the box
Bit of bubbling on the cabinet decal next to the hinge
A broken bit of plastic at the duff ramp
And somehow there is a fly alive and flying around inside the playfield lol
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Had some bubbling around the flipper buttons.
Rest sounds like rough seas and handling. Now can Australia get Fathoms going…
JJP was smooth for claims and warranty. Cheers!
Quoted from darkryder:This game is absolutely incredible, wow. The “Shall we play a game” mode tripped me out. War games anyone, lol? The light shows and videos unique to each song are just awesome, Live and Let Die is something to see. Can’t wait to dig deeper into this game. I managed 1.4M after about 5 games, lol. Starting to figure out the shots.
I tried doing the latest full code update on my game, but it’s looking for a keyboard when I boot from the USB stick I wrote to with UNETBOOTIN. Any ideas? Should I just do the delta update instead?
[quoted image]
Try a different brand/size usb stick. Sounds like it's not finding the brand of stick you used or the ubootnetin didn't make the image it put on it bootable.
Quoted from PinMonk:Try a different brand/size usb stick. Sounds like it's not finding the brand of stick you used or the ubootnetin didn't make the image it put on it bootable.
OK, I’ll try another USB flash drive. Is the full update necessary or can I do a delta update? I’m only one code rev behind.
Quoted from darkryder:OK, I’ll try another USB flash drive. Is the full update necessary or can I do a delta update? I’m only one code rev behind.
Why don't you just do wifi if you're only one minor release behind?
Quoted from allsportdvd:Well a couple of disappointing things right out of the box
Bit of bubbling on the cabinet decal next to the hinge
A broken bit of plastic at the duff ramp
And somehow there is a fly alive and flying around inside the playfield lol
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Congrats for the game Allsport and I hope that you can fix those details very quick man.
About that Seth Brundle Fly… how the hell that fly survived from Chicago to Brisbane? 
Quoted from allsportdvd:And somehow there is a fly alive and flying around inside the playfield lol
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Oh no, perhaps the fly in its angst flew into the plastic and broke it…..hope it’s not a Chinese fly, not another lock down….
Quoted from allsportdvd:Well a couple of disappointing things right out of the box
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"1023f3ef05530ec89c462943c349521ff189f651-1630054134-1800"};
//]]>Bit of bubbling on the cabinet decal next to the hinge
A broken bit of plastic at the duff ramp
And somehow there is a fly alive and flying around inside the playfield lol
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The fly will have Covid for sure.
Problem: the skull shot sensor switches and the keyboard sensor switches stop working.
This problem occurs every few games. It was gone for some weeks with regular play, but it is back.
The sensors cannot be auto calibrated via the menu. They still don’t work after a calibration test.
I switch the game off, wait a minute, power back on and voila!!! All non working sensor switches work again!!!!
What is the cause of this and what is the solution????
I reseated the connectors, all cables have enough slack, inspected connectors and pins but all looks ok.
I suspect the upper right flipper mech. It creates too much trembling of the nearby boards with fragile components. After a few games: BAM!! A component or connection gets a little bit too much trembling and the sensors go off-line. But this is just my humble opinion.
Quoted from holminone:Interesting. Great info. Question. When you install the new and bigger nut, do you rotate the nut to create three new teeth gauges in the underside of the playfield or do you come close to the original teeth marks from the old post?
Because the replacement base is much bigger, it’s not an issue. I did rotate ie a bit anyway.
That post is for all the other post replacements- just not in this case. You need this one…….
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5005-00
But here’s a tip- when you replace all the other through hole posts with the other BW post you linked above (recommended)- you’ll have plenty of spare posts that are suitable for the 3 problem posts.
Okay about the start protecting the playfield. Cliffy shooter lane protector is in. I’m scared as hell to put the cliffy on the centre scoop but it has to be done.
I know some of the posts that need washers and cliffy carbon fibre but does anyone have a diagram of all posts that need it? I saw a post here but it’s not key posted and I have pooling around some posts straight out of the box
Im going through old posts and Im looking for the post about the iron everyone is using to stop the pooling posts, No luck! What flat iron should we buy?? THANKS!
Quoted from blkspiderman:Im going through old posts and Im looking for the post about the iron everyone is using to stop the pooling posts, No luck! What flat iron should we buy?? THANKS!
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-pro-style-vinyl-and-leather-repair-kit-81781/7740002-P
Quoted from cooked71:Note that the BW style posts also mentioned here are not suitable for these 3 problem posts as they use t-nuts and the BW posts are still much smaller than the hole diameter because of the t-nut. The BW posts are definitely a recommended replacement for ALL the other through hole (ie. non t-nut) posts on the PF. I swapped them all - it's quite a few.
This great info as I didn't reach there yet so I now know what to order for here. Thank you.
Quoted from bsobie:DeathHimself.... How many of those post need to be replaced?
I'm not totally sure 100%, I looked at what areas would see a lot of ball action so to start I ordered as dozen and slowly replacing moving up the PF from flippers to backboard at the moment and just learned about the three T-nut posts & nuts to replace so they are now being ordered.
Quoted from Vino:Initial Feedback on the desert demolition mode w new code? I haven’t upgraded yet.
I finally beat it with the album patch in hand…….it’s actually possible now.
Quoted from Vino:Initial Feedback on the desert demolition mode w new code? I haven’t upgraded yet.
I think it’s pretty cool. Better than thirst for carnage for sure. Has some good creative elements going for it.
Quoted from Zora:The new code is no full install I think. Does it change the settings back to factory or the highscores?
If you're currently on 1.22 and upgrade to 1.23 it should be minor only and therefore all settings should be retained.
Quoted from swampy:If you're currently on 1.22 and upgrade to 1.23 it should be minor only and therefore all settings should be retained.
However, I just red in teh German pinball forum that all settings are back to factory. Not quite sure what about the highscores.
Quoted from allsportdvd:I know some of the posts that need washers and cliffy carbon fibre but does anyone have a diagram of all posts that need it? I saw a post here but it’s not key posted and I have pooling around some posts straight out of the box
I think this is it .
IMG_20210828_010620 (resized).jpgAll the way from Texas , the flipper toppers came today , thanks Mr_Tantrum .
They look great and I'll get the fourth little one when that's available .
IMG20210827180238 (resized).jpgIMG20210827180452 (resized).jpgQuoted from Zora:However, I just red in teh German pinball forum that all settings are back to factory. Not quite sure what about the highscores.
Settings held for me after this update…..
Quoted from darkryder:This game is absolutely incredible, wow. The “Shall we play a game” mode tripped me out. War games anyone, lol? The light shows and videos unique to each song are just awesome, Live and Let Die is something to see. Can’t wait to dig deeper into this game. I managed 1.4M after about 5 games, lol. Starting to figure out the shots.
I tried doing the latest full code update on my game, but it’s looking for a keyboard when I boot from the USB stick I wrote to with UNETBOOTIN. Any ideas? Should I just do the delta update instead?
[quoted image]
Shall We Play A Game tripped me out too the first time! Freaking awesome! Someone else said this, but they should take a picture of the player when it starts. Get that wtf moment! Hahaha
And Live And Let Die is by far the best, most dramatic light show in the game. All are great, but this one is next level.
Enjoy it man!
Quoted from allsportdvd:Okay about the start protecting the playfield. Cliffy shooter lane protector is in. I’m scared as hell to put the cliffy on the centre scoop but it has to be done.
I know some of the posts that need washers and cliffy carbon fibre but does anyone have a diagram of all posts that need it? I saw a post here but it’s not key posted and I have pooling around some posts straight out of the box
I also did it on the yellow ones here as well. My AXL lanes were starting to show signs so I did them as well. And a few more at the bottom with high velocity impacts and traffic.
Screenshot_20210827-145208_Chrome (resized).jpgQuoted from allsportdvd:Well a couple of disappointing things right out of the box
Bit of bubbling on the cabinet decal next to the hinge
A broken bit of plastic at the duff ramp
And somehow there is a fly alive and flying around inside the playfield lol
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Spoke to my operator mate yesterday. He said he had bubbling on the front and near the hinges.
New in box. How do they get passed QC?
I wanted to give an update on the 3D GNR flipper toppers I offer. Thanks to the help of a couple of GNR owners, I'm finally getting close to nailing the shape of the mini bat on the Limited/Collector editions. I'm not quite ready to sell them yet as I still have to make one and send to an owner for test fitting, but the time is coming.
With that stated, I wanted to share what pricing will be. Currently, my flipper topper set is $25. I will still offer it as a 3 topper set for the standard owners. The 4 topper set will be $30. I will also be offering an alternative design (same theme) that I came up with at the request of an owner. My original set has GNR at the fat part of the lower bats and no logo on the 3rd flipper. My new version has GNR more towards the center and a vertical GNR on the 3rd bat (both sets have the same mini design).
With all of these changes, once I'm ready with the mini-topper I wanted to offer the following to those who have already purchased a 3 topper set from me and want/need the mini topper and/or like the new design better.
- If you previously purchased the 3 topper set from me, I will sell you the additional mini topper for $5 ($30 total for the entire set which is the standard cost).
- If you previously purchased the 3 topper set from me but like the new version better and don't need/want the mini topper, if you sent me a photo of the current toppers cut into multiple pieces then I will send you and entirely new 3 piece set for $10.
- If you want both the new set and the mini topper, if you will send me a photo of the current toppers cut into multiple pieces then I will send you an entirely new 4 piece set for $15.
Hopefully, all of this makes sense and even though I still need a little time to get the mini topper tested, I wanted to make everyone aware of what I would be offering. BTW, moving forward for new buyers, you will have the choice of either a 3 or 4 piece set in either of the two designs.
Quoted from punkin:Spoke to my operator mate yesterday. He said he had bubbling on the front and near the hinges.
New in box. How do they get passed QC?
I too had wrinkling/creasing around the left hinge. Submitted a ticket and got a call within days saying that it could probably be smoothed out by me but they would send new side art anyways. I haven’t received it yet but it doesn’t harm game play either. Seems like a common problem for a new game and I too question QC on this as it is very obvious.
There is a tech post on a process to address this.
Quoted from punkin:Spoke to my operator mate yesterday. He said he had bubbling on the front and near the hinges.
New in box. How do they get passed QC?
I had the same thing
Quoted from punkin:They clearly don't give a fuck.
New decals don't help if you have to pay someone to apply them.
They learned something from roofing shingle warranties. Yeah, you can get your roof material replaced, but who's gonna install it? Most people are not DIY-leaning.
Quoted from punkin:They clearly don't give a fuck.
New decals don't help if you have to pay someone to apply them.
And if can do a better job installing the side art better than the factory what is that saying!
Quoted from punkin:They clearly don't give a fuck.
New decals don't help if you have to pay someone to apply them.
Pay sometone? It's not a terrible job if you use Rapid-Tac. I am a believer in that stuff after using it for art blades.
Quoted from zaphX:Pay sometone? It's not a terrible job if you use Rapid-Tac. I am a believer in that stuff after using it for art blades.
Yes, i pay people to work on my pins.
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