I was able to fix to my issue I posted yesterday with the diverter hanging too low in the lane and trapping balls. I raised the playfield and the two nuts on the diverter bracket were snug, but definitely not tight enough. I tilted the front of the diverter up 1/8", re-tightened the nuts and all is well. Balls go up and down that lane now, even with the diverter in the lowered position with no issues. Thanks for those who assisted.

Not really, but thanks for going to the effort. Exact dimensions of the length (photo angle distorts the ruler reading some) and the width and the fattest part of the bat would be a helpful start.

BTW, what are those (decals or something), and where did you get them?

Is there a preferred vendor to get the washers to repair the posts? Thanks.

I got Mylar washers from Pinmonk through Pinside store. They seem really good, and pinmonk is awesome. Support his products with confidence.

As for washers, I believe pinball life has a GNR kit. Some say JJP won’t send kits out to owners but they did for me, maybe it’s cause I had a chipped post?

Cabinet front pimpage:

(w/ test non-GnR albums magnet until I find replacement)
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(w/o)
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More progress! All monitors/splitters powered by game (turn on/off with game). Just waiting on angled hdmi/power cables in order to tuck everything nicely. The left monitor is IPS and looks great from any angle. The right monitor was *supposed* to be IPS but it’s obviously TN. It looks fine looking directly at it when playing (2nd pic).

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Those are the back side of these:

https://www.ulekstore.com/category_s/2050.htm

I can try to get better dimensions

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This is awesome. I loved the fit and finish of your original pics with the gold trim. But that was under mounted. These look too big for the space, especially the one on the right. Assuming this is just me not having your vision.
Maybe this will look more properly sized once under mounted? The ocd in me thinks both should be same size too.
Just feedback, I'm in awe and think this is so cool. I will be tracking this and implementing once your materials list is available and my pin gets here!!

Here you go mate, just replaced metal washers with these, no Mylar, or anything else, has worked a treat in keeping my playfield safe!

https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

Both of them are 7” monitors - the left one is native 1920x1080 and the right is 800x480 (like the source monitors). Dimensionally, that is going to result in a ratio difference as one is 16:9, the other 5:3. I think the bezel is probably thicker on the right one too. And the apron is smaller on the right side due to the shooter. I could reverse them and it would probably look more balanced, but then I end up with 4 wires in the middle of the apron that have to tuck under the apron at the top - not the cleanest solution either.

The left monitor (main display mirror) is all encased in aluminum with the breakout boards on the sides internally making it wider horizontally but nice and thin. I’m super impressed with this monitor being 1920x1080 IPS. This one is pretty much plug and play.

The right monitor (PF monitor mirror) has been a complete pain in my rear. I’ve tried 3 different monitors, 3 different splitters and so far this is the only combination that has worked. I’d like to find an encased unit like the left monitor but it’s probably not going to happen. I could try a smaller 6” if they exist, but not sure I care at this point. I’ve dumped around $500 into this so far (I need to try and sell off the monitors that didn’t work). Another issue is anything you order comes from China so it’s a 4-6 week wait.

The breakout board solution is clean looking, but won’t work for CE people as they have mechs in the Coma area underneath. It also requires ribbon cable extenders which are fragile and prone to damage lifting the playfield up and down.

At this point I just want to enjoy the game for a while and be able to see what’s on the 2 monitors without looking away from the flippers. I’m excited to have gotten to this point!

Jack in the house at Pinfest. We had blast at the show. Ultra Man had the longest line. Great show.

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Is JJP doing a seminar of some kind at the show? Glad to see Jack back out doing shows.

Is he still connected with the company?

I'm super impressed. Looking forward to updates!!

Officially an owner. HUO SE machine, 3rd owner. 300 plays on audit. 10/2020 build.

very minimal pooling (like you have to be very close and looking for it) and one small bubble. Plays perfectly. Will most likely put washers on a few posts.

Very fun having it and already getting to know the rules, modes, code, etc. The only thing I haven't really gotten into is the patches. They don't interest me and I'm not sure they are really worth the time to learn.

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Has anyone changed the colour of the t mould on the headbox of their LE? Post some pics if you have please.

You should get interested as they are well worth understanding to get the most out of playing GnR. Patches are important for increased scoring and add key additional strategy to the gameplay.

From the Tilt Forums Wiki Rulesheet:
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I have been studying this page for a little while. Even before I bought the game.

I just didn't get into the patches as they seemed frivolous.

However, I will spend some time on them!

Do you have any suggestions as your go to?

For those who were in the dark were the special target is located on the playfield like me. Eric Meunier confirmed it is the right outlane despite it not being documented.

Cayenne where did you get these plastic protectors? I have an SE but would like more than the slings and lanes protected.

I typically start off completing the Fender/Gibson/Vater/Marshall set for band member benefits and collective extra ball. I usually then go for the T-shirt/Poster set next as they decrease the meter decay from cradling the ball during songs.

Some players like the Axl patch right off and then focus on specific song patches. Lots of various scoring benefits and strategy options.

I'm not sure I fully appreciated the theme integration on this machine until I saw them in concert last night.

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GnR are Fn Back and they killed it at the first show of the 2021 tour restart.

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I start with Fender, followed by Duff skull and Vater (both important during songs) then bra and underwear for double bonus for the rest of the game. In later stages of the play I go for Gibson and Marshall to complete the sponsor set of the 4 sponsors, which light extra ball (no need to go for this combo at the beginning of the match, the other above are more important at the beginning).

Awesome stuff! I’ll be at Fenway park on Tuesday for their show and I can’t wait. Were you able to snag a lithograph?

Thanks. A scanned trace would be ideal, but if you don't have a scanner I understand. Thanks again for your efforts.

It's ok to ignore them at first - but you will definitely want them as you grow into the code. If you do nothing else, at least get the Fender patch (which will make band frenzy easier to start.)

Seeing them in Vegas on the 27th - can’t wait!

Would anyone have pointers on where to obtain the iron to fix pooling issues, shipping to Europe ?
The model referred to by Yelobird and Buffalo Pinball is this one I think but I can't find an equivalent on www.amazon.fr :
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81781-Ultra-Leather-Repair/dp/B0007TQWK6

Otherwise as an alternative I was looking at heat guns, any thoughts on which model would fit the task / what temperature should be reached?

- basic heatgun, models offer up to 200° Farenheit (90°C) and start at 100°F (45°C)
https://www.amazon.fr/thermique-ultra-long-Homidic-emballage-rétractable/dp/B095RP127C

- adjustable temperature heatgun, either 60°C (111° Farenheit), 60-350°C (111- 662° F) or 60-600°C (111-1110° F)
https://www.amazon.fr/AREWTEC-professionnel-Température-accessoires-thermorétractable/dp/B07Z23J92W/

Are there any long time experience with that ? Seems that there is still no official fix for that, or am I wrong?

Are you certain it’s T molding ?

I damaged mine. When my distributer contacted JJP they said it was heat molded on to the back box and they didn’t have the new molding to send.

So I’m on my 2nd magnet coil. It went out about a month ago, or so I thought. The day after it went out, I went on vacation. When I got back from vacation it was working again! So either I was cracked out when I thought it was out, or the new coils have an auto reset built into the thermal switch. Either case my new coil has been working solid for a few months now.

The thermal switch they used SHOULD work like that. Gets hot, turns off the power. Cools off, re-engages power. It's not a fuse that just blows and that's it.

But it seems like a better solution would have been to have a thermal probe on that coil and having the SOFTWARE reduce or cut power to the coil until it cools off. The thermal switch they're using seems to be the weak link. Active cooling also would prevent issues.

No I am not sure if it is T Mould or not. We are still a few months away from our game so just exploring options. Thanks for the info, appreciate it.

Does anyone else flip off the camera after a shitty game?

I'll second that!

They should have a LC score (lowest score) that has Slash flipping you off

Great stuff! Thank you!

Hit a 15m jackpot tonight. Not really sure how it got so high. . Maybe I used the right patches? ‍♂️

No problem - you're welcome!

I'm not sure how the rules work for that diverter, but since there's not a switch on the diverter assembly that I can see, it sounds like maybe a switch somewhere else is triggering and the game thinks the ball is elsewhere. jjPotC had an issue with the gate on the ship that was like this. The actual problem was a GOLD switch triggering on the lower PF from vibration so the game thought there was no ball up on the ship when there was and you needed an open gate up there.

To check: Glass off. Put the game in switch test mode. Smack the playfield with your palm or fist sharply in a number of areas and see if any switches trigger (a sound and color change on the switch screen). If one does, adjust that switch so it's less sensitive.

I thought that diverter comes down as soon as you spot a band member. Giving access to the miniplayfield.

Dunno. But it's not staying down for him. That makes me think it's going down when the band member is spotted, but another switch is being triggered by vibration that's making the software think it's time to let go of the diverter when it shouldn't.

Any key posts on trouble shooting the light sensor switches on the guitar head locks?

Did you recalibrate the sensors?

No, how do I do this? Somewhere in the settings?

Mine was acting up and it was a connector issue. I have a picture of it back a few posts ago. At least one other person has had the same issue.

Might have gotten Band Frenzy!

Band Frenzy is super important for blowing up jackpots in songs. You achieve it by hitting all the band member shots during their "active" parts of the song (indicated in the lower right of the screen.) There is also a gun barrel there with colored dots to help you identify which members you have and which you don't.

When it's active, try and feed as many balls into the pops as you can!

And yes, there are patches which spot characters which will make your journey to Band Frenzy shorter, so maybe you had some of those. Fender patch will spot an uncollected character when you shoot the active member's shot.

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I have some mylar starting to lift just below one of the pops. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? Do I just try to re-adhere to the playfield? Does it need to be heated?

yes, in the settings, I think for devices, but it's been a while since I've had to do it so cant exactly recall. They should automatically recalibrate at start up too, but try to do it manually and see if that corrects it.