(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

11 months ago


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  • 15,280 posts
  • 782 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by djpletcher
  • Topic is favorited by 391 Pinsiders

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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 180 votes
    19%
  • LE 495 votes
    52%
  • SE 63 votes
    7%
  • None 205 votes
    22%

(943 votes)

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There are 15280 posts in this topic. You are on page 260 of 306.
#12951 54 days ago

I was able to fix to my issue I posted yesterday with the diverter hanging too low in the lane and trapping balls. I raised the playfield and the two nuts on the diverter bracket were snug, but definitely not tight enough. I tilted the front of the diverter up 1/8", re-tightened the nuts and all is well. Balls go up and down that lane now, even with the diverter in the lowered position with no issues. Thanks for those who assisted.

#12952 54 days ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Maybe this helps?
[quoted image]

Not really, but thanks for going to the effort. Exact dimensions of the length (photo angle distorts the ruler reading some) and the width and the fattest part of the bat would be a helpful start.

BTW, what are those (decals or something), and where did you get them?

#12953 54 days ago
Quoted from RPZ:

Thanks mate!
Came up alright! [quoted image][quoted image]

Is there a preferred vendor to get the washers to repair the posts? Thanks.

#12954 54 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Is there a preferred vendor to get the washers to repair the posts? Thanks.

I got Mylar washers from Pinmonk through Pinside store. They seem really good, and pinmonk is awesome. Support his products with confidence.

As for washers, I believe pinball life has a GNR kit. Some say JJP won’t send kits out to owners but they did for me, maybe it’s cause I had a chipped post?

#12955 54 days ago

Cabinet front pimpage:

(w/ test non-GnR albums magnet until I find replacement)
20210730_173633_resized (resized).jpg

(w/o)
20210731_195748_resized (resized).jpg

#12956 54 days ago

More progress! All monitors/splitters powered by game (turn on/off with game). Just waiting on angled hdmi/power cables in order to tuck everything nicely. The left monitor is IPS and looks great from any angle. The right monitor was *supposed* to be IPS but it’s obviously TN. It looks fine looking directly at it when playing (2nd pic).

2A09C822-2235-44A8-9A23-80C04DD36749 (resized).jpeg

99AFC3F0-F9D1-4EAA-8804-C9BE6CF54F02 (resized).jpeg

#12957 54 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not really, but thanks for going to the effort. Exact dimensions of the length (photo angle distorts the ruler reading some) and the width and the fattest part of the bat would be a helpful start.
BTW, what are those (decals or something), and where did you get them?

Those are the back side of these:

https://www.ulekstore.com/category_s/2050.htm

I can try to get better dimensions

Screenshot_20210731-150321_Chrome (resized).jpg
#12958 54 days ago
Quoted from Damonator:

More progress! All monitors/splitters powered by game (turn on/off with game). Just waiting on angled hdmi/power cables in order to tuck everything nicely. The left monitor is IPS and looks great from any angle. The right monitor was *supposed* to be IPS but it’s obviously TN. It looks fine looking directly at it when playing (2nd pic).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

This is awesome. I loved the fit and finish of your original pics with the gold trim. But that was under mounted. These look too big for the space, especially the one on the right. Assuming this is just me not having your vision.
Maybe this will look more properly sized once under mounted? The ocd in me thinks both should be same size too.
Just feedback, I'm in awe and think this is so cool. I will be tracking this and implementing once your materials list is available and my pin gets here!!

#12959 54 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Is there a preferred vendor to get the washers to repair the posts? Thanks.

Here you go mate, just replaced metal washers with these, no Mylar, or anything else, has worked a treat in keeping my playfield safe!

https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

#12960 54 days ago
Quoted from Vespula:

This is awesome. I loved the fit and finish of your original pics with the gold trim. But that was under mounted. These look too big for the space,
Maybe this will look more properly sized once under mounted?

Both of them are 7” monitors - the left one is native 1920x1080 and the right is 800x480 (like the source monitors). Dimensionally, that is going to result in a ratio difference as one is 16:9, the other 5:3. I think the bezel is probably thicker on the right one too. And the apron is smaller on the right side due to the shooter. I could reverse them and it would probably look more balanced, but then I end up with 4 wires in the middle of the apron that have to tuck under the apron at the top - not the cleanest solution either.

The left monitor (main display mirror) is all encased in aluminum with the breakout boards on the sides internally making it wider horizontally but nice and thin. I’m super impressed with this monitor being 1920x1080 IPS. This one is pretty much plug and play.

The right monitor (PF monitor mirror) has been a complete pain in my rear. I’ve tried 3 different monitors, 3 different splitters and so far this is the only combination that has worked. I’d like to find an encased unit like the left monitor but it’s probably not going to happen. I could try a smaller 6” if they exist, but not sure I care at this point. I’ve dumped around $500 into this so far (I need to try and sell off the monitors that didn’t work). Another issue is anything you order comes from China so it’s a 4-6 week wait.

The breakout board solution is clean looking, but won’t work for CE people as they have mechs in the Coma area underneath. It also requires ribbon cable extenders which are fragile and prone to damage lifting the playfield up and down.

At this point I just want to enjoy the game for a while and be able to see what’s on the 2 monitors without looking away from the flippers. I’m excited to have gotten to this point!

15
#12961 54 days ago

Jack in the house at Pinfest. We had blast at the show. Ultra Man had the longest line. Great show.

20210730_135142 (resized).jpg
#12962 54 days ago
Quoted from sushko:

Jack in the house at Pinfest. We had blast at the show. Ultra Man had the longest line. Great show.

Is JJP doing a seminar of some kind at the show? Glad to see Jack back out doing shows.

#12963 54 days ago

Is he still connected with the company?

#12964 54 days ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Both of them are 7” monitors - the left one is native 1920x1080 and the right is 800x480 (like the source monitors). Dimensionally, that is going to result in a ratio difference as one is 16:9, the other 5:3. I think the bezel is probably thicker on the right one too. And the apron is smaller on the right side due to the shooter. I could reverse them and it would probably look more balanced, but then I end up with 4 wires in the middle of the apron that have to tuck under the apron at the top - not the cleanest solution either.
The left monitor (main display mirror) is all encased in aluminum with the breakout boards on the sides internally making it wider horizontally but nice and thin. I’m super impressed with this monitor being 1920x1080 IPS. This one is pretty much plug and play.
The right monitor (PF monitor mirror) has been a complete pain in my rear. I’ve tried 3 different monitors, 3 different splitters and so far this is the only combination that has worked. I’d like to find an encased unit like the left monitor but it’s probably not going to happen. I could try a smaller 6” if they exist, but not sure I care at this point. I’ve dumped around $500 into this so far (I need to try and sell off the monitors that didn’t work). Another issue is anything you order comes from China so it’s a 4-6 week wait.
The breakout board solution is clean looking, but won’t work for CE people as they have mechs in the Coma area underneath. It also requires ribbon cable extenders which are fragile and prone to damage lifting the playfield up and down.
At this point I just want to enjoy the game for a while and be able to see what’s on the 2 monitors without looking away from the flippers. I’m excited to have gotten to this point!

I'm super impressed. Looking forward to updates!!

#12965 54 days ago

Officially an owner. HUO SE machine, 3rd owner. 300 plays on audit. 10/2020 build.

very minimal pooling (like you have to be very close and looking for it) and one small bubble. Plays perfectly. Will most likely put washers on a few posts.

Very fun having it and already getting to know the rules, modes, code, etc. The only thing I haven't really gotten into is the patches. They don't interest me and I'm not sure they are really worth the time to learn.

20210731_200734 (resized).jpg

#12966 54 days ago

Has anyone changed the colour of the t mould on the headbox of their LE? Post some pics if you have please.

#12967 53 days ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

... The only thing I haven't really gotten into is the patches. They don't interest me and I'm not sure they are really worth the time to learn.

You should get interested as they are well worth understanding to get the most out of playing GnR. Patches are important for increased scoring and add key additional strategy to the gameplay.

From the Tilt Forums Wiki Rulesheet:
Patches 1 (resized).JPG
Patches 2 (resized).JPG
Patches 3 (resized).JPG
Patches 4 (resized).JPG
Patches 5 (resized).JPG

#12968 53 days ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

You should get interested as they are well worth understanding to get the most out of playing GnR. Patches are important for increased scoring and add key additional strategy to the gameplay.
From the Tilt Forums Wiki Rulesheet:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I have been studying this page for a little while. Even before I bought the game.

I just didn't get into the patches as they seemed frivolous.

However, I will spend some time on them!

Do you have any suggestions as your go to?

#12969 53 days ago

For those who were in the dark were the special target is located on the playfield like me. Eric Meunier confirmed it is the right outlane despite it not being documented.

#12970 53 days ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

I have when I bought black mirror plates and coloured plastic protectors installed at the same time. Looks very cool.
[quoted image]

Cayenne where did you get these plastic protectors? I have an SE but would like more than the slings and lanes protected.

#12971 53 days ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

I have been studying this page for a little while. Even before I bought the game.
I just didn't get into the patches as they seemed frivolous.
However, I will spend some time on them!
Do you have any suggestions as your go to?

I typically start off completing the Fender/Gibson/Vater/Marshall set for band member benefits and collective extra ball. I usually then go for the T-shirt/Poster set next as they decrease the meter decay from cradling the ball during songs.

Some players like the Axl patch right off and then focus on specific song patches. Lots of various scoring benefits and strategy options.

15
#12972 53 days ago

I'm not sure I fully appreciated the theme integration on this machine until I saw them in concert last night.

PXL_20210801_005630066.MP (resized).jpg
12
#12973 53 days ago

GnR are Fn Back and they killed it at the first show of the 2021 tour restart.

A59F8EBB-C6A2-464F-BFC1-ADD2534603B2 (resized).jpegBA80701B-BB12-4CB7-8F80-27C600D1E0B2 (resized).jpeg
#12974 53 days ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

I have been studying this page for a little while. Even before I bought the game.
I just didn't get into the patches as they seemed frivolous.
However, I will spend some time on them!
Do you have any suggestions as your go to?

I start with Fender, followed by Duff skull and Vater (both important during songs) then bra and underwear for double bonus for the rest of the game. In later stages of the play I go for Gibson and Marshall to complete the sponsor set of the 4 sponsors, which light extra ball (no need to go for this combo at the beginning of the match, the other above are more important at the beginning).

#12975 53 days ago
Quoted from Mahoneyj:

GnR are Fn Back and they killed it at the first show of the 2021 tour restart.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome stuff! I’ll be at Fenway park on Tuesday for their show and I can’t wait. Were you able to snag a lithograph?

#12976 53 days ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

You should get interested as they are well worth understanding to get the most out of playing GnR. Patches are important for increased scoring and add key additional strategy to the gameplay.
From the Tilt Forums Wiki Rulesheet:

Thanks. A scanned trace would be ideal, but if you don't have a scanner I understand. Thanks again for your efforts.

#12977 53 days ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

They don't interest me and I'm not sure they are really worth the time to learn.
[quoted image]

It's ok to ignore them at first - but you will definitely want them as you grow into the code. If you do nothing else, at least get the Fender patch (which will make band frenzy easier to start.)

#12978 53 days ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Awesome stuff! I’ll be at Fenway park on Tuesday for their show and I can’t wait. We’re you able to snag a lithograph?

Seeing them in Vegas on the 27th - can’t wait!

#12979 53 days ago

Would anyone have pointers on where to obtain the iron to fix pooling issues, shipping to Europe ?
The model referred to by Yelobird and Buffalo Pinball is this one I think but I can't find an equivalent on www.amazon.fr :
amazon.com link »

Otherwise as an alternative I was looking at heat guns, any thoughts on which model would fit the task / what temperature should be reached?

- basic heatgun, models offer up to 200° Farenheit (90°C) and start at 100°F (45°C)
amazon.com link »

- adjustable temperature heatgun, either 60°C (111° Farenheit), 60-350°C (111- 662° F) or 60-600°C (111-1110° F)
amazon.com link »

#12980 53 days ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

Yes. There is a resistor taped (literally) to the magnet coil that fails. You can bypass it (remove the resistor from the coil) and/or contact JJP for a replacement.

Are there any long time experience with that ? Seems that there is still no official fix for that, or am I wrong?

#12981 53 days ago
Quoted from MJW:

Got mine from Modcouple

Quoted from pinballaddicted:

Has anyone changed the colour of the t mould on the headbox of their LE? Post some pics if you have please.

Are you certain it’s T molding ?

I damaged mine. When my distributer contacted JJP they said it was heat molded on to the back box and they didn’t have the new molding to send.

#12982 53 days ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Are there any long time experience with that ? Seems that there is still no official fix for that, or am I wrong?

So I’m on my 2nd magnet coil. It went out about a month ago, or so I thought. The day after it went out, I went on vacation. When I got back from vacation it was working again! So either I was cracked out when I thought it was out, or the new coils have an auto reset built into the thermal switch. Either case my new coil has been working solid for a few months now.

#12983 53 days ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

So I’m on my 2nd magnet coil. It went out about a month ago, or so I thought. The day after it went out, I went on vacation. When I got back from vacation it was working again! So either I was cracked out when I thought it was out, or the new coils have an auto reset built into the thermal switch. Either case my new coil has been working solid for a few months now.

The thermal switch they used SHOULD work like that. Gets hot, turns off the power. Cools off, re-engages power. It's not a fuse that just blows and that's it.

But it seems like a better solution would have been to have a thermal probe on that coil and having the SOFTWARE reduce or cut power to the coil until it cools off. The thermal switch they're using seems to be the weak link. Active cooling also would prevent issues.

#12984 53 days ago
Quoted from MJW:

Are you certain it’s T molding ?
I damaged mine. When my distributer contacted JJP they said it was heat molded on to the back box and they didn’t have the new molding to send.

No I am not sure if it is T Mould or not. We are still a few months away from our game so just exploring options. Thanks for the info, appreciate it.

#12985 53 days ago

So my left ramp diverter seems mostly not working atm. It will go down for a few seconds at a time but then shoots back up so it's almost never down which is not right. Not a physical hang up because it can go down. It just doesn't stay down for long. Any ideas?

#12986 53 days ago

Does anyone else flip off the camera after a shitty game?

#12987 53 days ago
Quoted from Chetrico:

Does anyone else flip off the camera after a shitty game?

I'll second that!

#12988 53 days ago
Quoted from Chetrico:

Does anyone else flip off the camera after a shitty game?

They should have a LC score (lowest score) that has Slash flipping you off

#12989 53 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It's ok to ignore them at first - but you will definitely want them as you grow into the code. If you do nothing else, at least get the Fender patch (which will make band frenzy easier to start.)

Quoted from Zora:

I start with Fender, followed by Duff skull and Vater (both important during songs) then bra and underwear for double bonus for the rest of the game. In later stages of the play I go for Gibson and Marshall to complete the sponsor set of the 4 sponsors, which light extra ball (no need to go for this combo at the beginning of the match, the other above are more important at the beginning).

Great stuff! Thank you!

Hit a 15m jackpot tonight. Not really sure how it got so high. . Maybe I used the right patches? ‍♂️

#12990 53 days ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Great stuff! Thank you!
Hit a 15m jackpot tonight. Not really sure how it got so high. . Maybe I used the right patches? ‍♂️

No problem - you're welcome!

#12991 53 days ago
Quoted from glpinball:

So my left ramp diverter seems mostly not working atm. It will go down for a few seconds at a time but then shoots back up so it's almost never down which is not right. Not a physical hang up because it can go down. It just doesn't stay down for long. Any ideas?

I'm not sure how the rules work for that diverter, but since there's not a switch on the diverter assembly that I can see, it sounds like maybe a switch somewhere else is triggering and the game thinks the ball is elsewhere. jjPotC had an issue with the gate on the ship that was like this. The actual problem was a GOLD switch triggering on the lower PF from vibration so the game thought there was no ball up on the ship when there was and you needed an open gate up there.

To check: Glass off. Put the game in switch test mode. Smack the playfield with your palm or fist sharply in a number of areas and see if any switches trigger (a sound and color change on the switch screen). If one does, adjust that switch so it's less sensitive.

#12992 52 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'm not sure how the rules work for that diverter, but since there's not a switch on the diverter assembly that I can see, it sounds like maybe a switch somewhere else is triggering and the game thinks the ball is elsewhere. jjPotC had an issue with the gate on the ship that was like this. The actual problem was a GOLD switch triggering on the lower PF from vibration so the game thought there was no ball up on the ship when there was and you needed an open gate up there.
To check: Glass off. Put the game in switch test mode. Smack the playfield with your palm or fist sharply in a number of areas and see if any switches trigger (a sound and color change on the switch screen). If one does, adjust that switch so it's less sensitive.

I thought that diverter comes down as soon as you spot a band member. Giving access to the miniplayfield.

#12993 52 days ago
Quoted from PeterG:

I thought that diverter comes down as soon as you spot a band member. Giving access to the miniplayfield.

Dunno. But it's not staying down for him. That makes me think it's going down when the band member is spotted, but another switch is being triggered by vibration that's making the software think it's time to let go of the diverter when it shouldn't.

#12994 52 days ago

Any key posts on trouble shooting the light sensor switches on the guitar head locks?

#12995 52 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Any key posts on trouble shooting the light sensor switches on the guitar head locks?

Did you recalibrate the sensors?

#12996 52 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Did you recalibrate the sensors?

No, how do I do this? Somewhere in the settings?

#12997 52 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Any key posts on trouble shooting the light sensor switches on the guitar head locks?

Mine was acting up and it was a connector issue. I have a picture of it back a few posts ago. At least one other person has had the same issue.

#12998 52 days ago
Quoted from Ecw0930:

Great stuff! Thank you!
Hit a 15m jackpot tonight. Not really sure how it got so high. . Maybe I used the right patches? ‍♂️

Might have gotten Band Frenzy!

Band Frenzy is super important for blowing up jackpots in songs. You achieve it by hitting all the band member shots during their "active" parts of the song (indicated in the lower right of the screen.) There is also a gun barrel there with colored dots to help you identify which members you have and which you don't.

When it's active, try and feed as many balls into the pops as you can!

And yes, there are patches which spot characters which will make your journey to Band Frenzy shorter, so maybe you had some of those. Fender patch will spot an uncollected character when you shoot the active member's shot.

#12999 52 days ago

20210801_164355 (resized).jpg

I have some mylar starting to lift just below one of the pops. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? Do I just try to re-adhere to the playfield? Does it need to be heated?

#13000 52 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

No, how do I do this? Somewhere in the settings?

yes, in the settings, I think for devices, but it's been a while since I've had to do it so cant exactly recall. They should automatically recalibrate at start up too, but try to do it manually and see if that corrects it.

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