Quoted from cooked71:

Any CE owners installed Pinwoofer kits? Is it needed?

Quoted from Mattyk:

Well shit. After about 500 plays after installing the PETG washers I am now seeing pooling in two places. The left ball guide by left spinner and the bare post inlane by the amp lights.
The inlane post had significant pooling and playfield paint was cracked. I removed the post and washer and tried to flatten with the iron. Although this removed the ripple it made a bit more of the paint chip away.
I covered the area with some Mylar and added a second silicone washer under the PETG and put the post back on. I’ll be keeping an eye on it. Shit
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Quoted from pinballaddicted:

So sorry to see this. I feel for you and hope everything turns out OK. Shitty feeling, I have had it a few times now.
Could you please let us know the build date of your machine?
Thanks and all the best.

Quoted from Mattyk:

Thanks. April 2021 build.

Quoted from Mattyk:

Well shit. After about 500 plays after installing the PETG washers I am now seeing pooling in two places. The left ball guide by left spinner and the bare post inlane by the amp lights.
The inlane post had significant pooling and playfield paint was cracked. I removed the post and washer and tried to flatten with the iron. Although this removed the ripple it made a bit more of the paint chip away.
I covered the area with some Mylar and added a second silicone washer under the PETG and put the post back on. I’ll be keeping an eye on it. Shit

Quoted from Mattyk:

Well shit. After about 500 plays after installing the PETG washers I am now seeing pooling in two places. The left ball guide by left spinner and the bare post inlane by the amp lights.
The inlane post had significant pooling and playfield paint was cracked. I removed the post and washer and tried to flatten with the iron. Although this removed the ripple it made a bit more of the paint chip away.
I covered the area with some Mylar and added a second silicone washer under the PETG and put the post back on. I’ll be keeping an eye on it. Shit
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Quoted from punkin:

That is absolutely disgracefull corporate behavior and the reason they will never get another cent from me if i can help it.

Quoted from hool10:

Oh man I'm sorry to see that. Did you iron your playfield and then install the PETG washers in the first place? I'm hesitant to say it but surely PETG isn't digging into the playfield??

Quoted from Mattyk:

I did not have any pooling here prior to putting the plastic washer. It stayed perfect for a long time. The other day I saw the pooling.

Quoted from konghusker:

How tight did you torque that post down? Hard to imagine these petg sinking in unless it was over torqued.

Quoted from Mattyk:

Well shit. After about 500 plays after installing the PETG washers I am now seeing pooling in two places. The left ball guide by left spinner and the bare post inlane by the amp lights.
The inlane post had significant pooling and playfield paint was cracked. I removed the post and washer and tried to flatten with the iron. Although this removed the ripple it made a bit more of the paint chip away.
I covered the area with some Mylar and added a second silicone washer under the PETG and put the post back on. I’ll be keeping an eye on it. Shit
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Quoted from cooked71:

I honestly think the Silicone washers are the only thing that will work because they are softer than the clear. Probably the "gold standar" is silicone under PETG, but then the posts get very high. Might be OK for areas where the height doesnt matter, but for other areas such as slings, the height affects the rubber height which in turn affects the sling kicker arm.
Originally on my Wonka I used Silicone and PETG, but felt it was overkill and went back to just silicone. Time will tell I guess.
I'd be hesitant putting mylar over damaged areas as removing it could bring up more art.
In the end this might be like Covid - we are all just going to have to learn to live with it.

Quoted from Mattyk:

I was thinking the same thing about the Mylar. I just didn’t want to risk any paint cracking beyond the diameter of the washer. That would be game over

Quoted from ThePinballFuries:

My LE should be delivered next week. I plan on spending 8 hours to JJP-itize everything with Cliffy protectors, PETG washers, and cooling fans. I should be excited but I’m nervous about having to take a new machine apart and put it back together just to play it.

Quoted from bigd1979:

I used rubber /silicone washers on my wonka and it has been ok for years now.. not a fan of the plastic washers for the most part as they can dig in and cause issues also. The rubber/silicone have some give to them when the posts move .

Quoted from daveyvandy:

As promised, let me know what you think! I forgot to include the power supply in the video, but it is in the video's description.

Quoted from Ecw0930:

Love playing this game. The more I learn +very slowly) the more fun it is.
But I can't find a place where the info is to learn to play. The rules. Patches. Modes. Scoring. Etc...
Is there a place for GNR 101: How to play? Hahaha.
Seriously tho, where can I go to get a good synopsis of all the rules and scoring and how patches and modes and songs all work?

Quoted from ThePinballFuries:

My LE should be delivered next week. I plan on spending 8 hours to JJP-itize everything with Cliffy protectors, PETG washers, and cooling fans. I should be excited but I’m nervous about having to take a new machine apart and put it back together just to play it.

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Isn’t it fk’d up we have to do this? I’ve never seen any pin with this much NIB Fukery going on. “Hey, here’s your new car you spent all your money on, but you better plastic wrap it before you drive it off the lot or all the paint will fall off.” Complete trash

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Your LE should come with black plastic washers installed at the 11 posts below, personally I don't think you will need (or should) to remove them and replace with PETG washers. This latest combo appears to be working very well.
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Below are pictures from my July 2021 build showing a majority of the new post / washer combination.
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Quoted from Mattyk:

I was thinking the same thing about the Mylar. I just didn’t want to risk any paint cracking beyond the diameter of the washer. That would be game over

Quoted from Yelobird:

First off this situation completely sucks period! As for repair this is just my opinion and nothing more! I personally think the silicone option is the worst solution. I think because it’s soft and pliable it literally grabs the clear coat and Pulls it off the playfield! Almost multiplies the tear strength as the rubber acts like an adhesive spring. How many posts have we seen where people go this route and it Still happens. Mylar on the other hand like pinball companies used for Many years before this never had an issue in fact it was the primary strategy to overcome weak Playfield coatings. I have used simple Mylar rings to repair over 50 games now and have yet to have a single one with issues later. Mylar is a rigid patch that bonds the problem area as one surface meaning the entire area would need to lift up at one time. Like a bandaid it keeps the wound sealed and bonded together. I see very few people that have done simple Mylar, then a rigid washer note the issue returning. In my opinion I feel like we are simply overcompensating the issue and multiplying the problem. Again Completely just my opinion nothing more but this horrible situation just seems to be getting worse. Shame on JJP for not at the very least halting the line to stop this train wreck. Any washer is going to move, period. You need to bond the surface below it so it doesn’t!

Quoted from Bing_Party:

Thank god you posted this. I am about to get my LE as it comes in 2 weeks. At least I know they are addressing the issue with the posts. But I am still scared to death.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

As for the game, it’s unlike any other game. Completely amazing

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Does anybody have the flipper rubber sizes?

Quoted from Eskaybee:

While it does suck, try not to let it bother you too badly. It could be worse, it could be a stern with chipped ball guides. Why JJP is under the heat ray so much more than stern baffles me. I’d rather have a chipped post that can be fixed and concealed with a Mylar ring + washer than a chipped ball guide that will be an eye sore for life. Welp, that’s pinside tunnel vision.
As for the game, it’s unlike any other game. Completely amazing. So roll the dice with a samey stern and their playfield issues or go all in with something completely different that is filled with Adrenalin. That said, and all BS aside, GNR does take quite a bit to dial in and get playing right. But when you find the sweet spot, holy hell what an experience in sound, gameplay, shots, combos, code, and rules. All that’s really missing is a complete ruleset, faith in Keefer and team to bring it home!

Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

20 games in on a CE;
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Not happy at all....

Quoted from MightyGrave:

Have you used washers under the Post ? Or was ist only the Post without any washers?

Quoted from RA77:

My CE still a glorified jukebox, no play till Cliffy kit arrives. Tracking says stuck in San Francisco for last 10 days, frustrating.

Quoted from RA77:

My CE still a glorified jukebox, no play till Cliffy kit arrives. Tracking says stuck in San Francisco for last 10 days, frustrating. Oh well, had to go away for work again.
I implore JJP to address the matter appropriately. Our Australian distributor has provided great customer service and Barry from JJP has been super helpful.
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Quoted from thechakapakuni: I’ve never seen any pin with this much NIB Fukery going on. “Hey, here’s your new car you spent all your money on, but you better plastic wrap it before you drive it off the lot or all the paint will fall off.” Complete trash

Quoted from Yelobird:

First off this situation completely sucks period! As for repair this is just my opinion and nothing more! I personally think the silicone option is the worst solution. I think because it’s soft and pliable it literally grabs the clear coat and Pulls it off the playfield! Almost multiplies the tear strength as the rubber acts like an adhesive spring. How many posts have we seen where people go this route and it Still happens. Mylar on the other hand like pinball companies used for Many years before this never had an issue in fact it was the primary strategy to overcome weak Playfield coatings. I have used simple Mylar rings to repair over 50 games now and have yet to have a single one with issues later. Mylar is a rigid patch that bonds the problem area as one surface meaning the entire area would need to lift up at one time. Like a bandaid it keeps the wound sealed and bonded together. I see very few people that have done simple Mylar, then a rigid washer note the issue returning. In my opinion I feel like we are simply overcompensating the issue and multiplying the problem. Again Completely just my opinion nothing more but this horrible situation just seems to be getting worse. Shame on JJP for not at the very least halting the line to stop this train wreck. Any washer is going to move, period. You need to bond the surface below it so it doesn’t!

Quoted from dmj1977:

I have an issue with my left ramp diverter - it’s getting stuck under the ramp when in the down position. It has quite a lot of rotational play in it (such that the diverter can get caught on the edge of the slot in the ramp). I can’t see any way to tighten it or remove the rotational movement though. Does anyone know?

Quoted from PinMonk:

Don't lose hope. I have no idea what's going in in SF lately, but I had a number of international packages go into that black hole and nothing happened for almost THREE WEEKS before they showed up in the destination country. This is not normal.
I did accidentally find out that International Priority Mail express is not subject to this black hole in SF. IPME packages move through SF in lightning speed, and don't cost that much more than regular international priority mail in some cases.

Quoted from cooked71:

Amazing how many different opinions we have on this issue.
Have you seen examples of Silicone washers doing ripping up art? I personally haven’t.
Also, Mylar is great if the clear is not already damaged - and that was always its purpose. But I still question putting it over already damaged clear/art - it will likely rip up the art when removed.
Personally I think Mylar (if no damage), then silicone is the best solution.
Not arguing, just my opinion also and will keep a track on my silicone washers over time and report back. Happy to be wrong if there’s a better solution.

Quoted from Yelobird:

You and I are absolutely on the same page. You can’t simply mylar a three dimensional pooled surface and expect it to fix it. Mylar is the bulletproof solution to Not have this issue to start. Or you need to refer to the post repair thread first then Mylar. Your only option when the art and clear are shattered is to use a rubber washer and hope it keeps pressure on it to minimize spreading. I’ve just seen so many “bulletproofing before playing” posts and wanted to share what I have had complete success with.

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Would you recommend then on a latest build, where the latest washer / post / nut combo is installed, to remove the 11 posts in question and install a small piece of mylar under each?