Quoted from Cayenne:

post deleted by Cayenne because Art of Pinball saw its rights violated

Quoted from Vespula:

I think it's really unfair that there appears to be a bunch of bullying going on from art of pinball to force this guy to stop selling generic plain speaker kits which nobody has a copyright on plastic speakers... Come on...
They were posted up here and now the posts all gone. Does anyone know about this? Even Sven store is taken down. Just not right.
Here's the original topic
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mod-jjp-guns-n-roses-le-ce-ultimate-stage-upgrade-kit#post-6392827

Quoted from hool10:

So I personally just spent 6 hours toiling away on my GnR Standard. I used the Buffalo Pinball video as guidance and I used this post as well (along with Yellow Bird). https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/226?fbclid=IwAR0Tqv7xF5iKdzok07Mrbq4W0396cJyhfPcr2oLDeerpZWtJ3h3c1ovtYVg#post-6338289
I installed a full set of Cliffy Protectors, the Lior Shooter Rod/Skull and Action Button mod. I also got as many pooling posts as I could fixed and while I didn't get everything the ones I didn't get had such a small amount of pooling I may tackle it in the future if it gets worse. These are my techniques and what I learned about this process and I hope it helps future owners. The skull doesn't interfere with leg removal and the glue on the action button mod doesn't work (or didn't work for me) so I got Gorilla Glue double-sided tape and that worked like a charm. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
So the iron you get will have concentric ring marks from a machining process on the face of the iron. You must remove those or else you are going to put rings into your playfield! I used a lapping stone with fine sandpaper and then Scotch-Brite pads but look up how to lap and do it on a bench or something. Follow the video but what I did was press and smooth out the warm playfield your your fingers. The process is much like applying a screen protector as it's almost like mylar over the entire playfield as the mylar "shrinks" and you squeegee the bubble out to the hole. Try not to breathe in the offgassing fumes (smells like yogurt) however it won't kill you. Oddly removing wood screws created the same smell. For me it worked out great and buttery smooth! As for the washers folding that isn't necessarily due to people cranking away on the screwdriver. Typically as I show that happens when a ball guide acts like a knife edge and bends the washer which will happen because it's a flat disc. You want like 25 or so of these washers: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0070-00-70 They look MUCH better than the junk JJP sent out and you won't even notice them when the game is lit up. Then as Nick Lane said you want to use the steel washer under the playfield to be on top. The washer squishes out and prevents metal to clearcoat contact and absorbs vibration. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Finally the whole "oh my god they installed the wrong posts and this is why the playfield is chipping" is plain bs. You only need to order 2, YES JUST 2 of these posts: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base.html I point out where they need to be installed and I really hope JJP fixes that issue because that is a simple value adjustment on the CNC mill or use the correct post. So it's not every post hole as the person complained about because you can't fit the proper post in because it's too fat. It's just those 2 holes drilled out too large.[quoted image].[quoted image]
Finally the octagon lighting area needs to have the lights diffused. Nearly every game has this issue and a mod is commercially available but why buy it when you have it in your fridge already? This is a 7 year going strong mod for Stern Star Trek insignia: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/st-proprele-warp-ramp-insignia-lighting-mod-[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from RPZ:

Bottom left washer, which you showed you ironed out and then installed a silicone washer under, is showing pooling already around it. PTEG washers are definitely best.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Impossible to evaluate since all the posts and content are deleted.

Quoted from RPZ:

Bottom left washer, which you showed you ironed out and then installed a silicone washer under, is showing pooling already around it. PTEG washers are definitely best.

Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Still want a GnR but with these playfield issues and no warranty, going to have to sit it out until JJP decide to be customer friendly.

Quoted from Vespula:

Original post and pictures are back now

Quoted from screaminr:

Not on my thread , do you want to put up a picture .

Quoted from firebrand007:

Hi,
I just got my LE, and the left rubber on top of "Coma" (area to the left of the left slingshot) was unfortunately before even the first game.
What's the reference of that rubber and would you have any guidance on how to replace it ?
Total newbie here and it seems I need to remove 3 posts, one of which has a t-nut on the bottom of the playfield, with which I wonder how to deal.
The other ones I suppose can be removed with a nut driver (American size 11/32?) and a small wrench to keep the plot from turning ?
Thanks a lot !

Quoted from firebrand007:

Hi,
I just got my LE, and the left rubber on top of "Coma" (area to the left of the left slingshot) was unfortunately before even the first game.
What's the reference of that rubber and would you have any guidance on how to replace it ?
Total newbie here and it seems I need to remove 3 posts, one of which has a t-nut on the bottom of the playfield, with which I wonder how to deal.
The other ones I suppose can be removed with a nut driver (American size 11/32?) and a small wrench to keep the plot from turning ?
Thanks a lot !

Quoted from Vespula:

Original post and pictures are back now

Quoted from screaminr:

Not on my thread , do you want to put up a picture .

Quoted from cybevenom:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mod-jjp-guns-n-roses-le-ce-ultimate-stage-upgrade-kit

Quoted from hool10:

So I personally just spent 6 hours toiling away on my GnR Standard. I used the Buffalo Pinball video as guidance and I used this post as well (along with Yellow Bird). https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/226?fbclid=IwAR0Tqv7xF5iKdzok07Mrbq4W0396cJyhfPcr2oLDeerpZWtJ3h3c1ovtYVg#post-6338289
I installed a full set of Cliffy Protectors, the Lior Shooter Rod/Skull and Action Button mod. I also got as many pooling posts as I could fixed and while I didn't get everything the ones I didn't get had such a small amount of pooling I may tackle it in the future if it gets worse. These are my techniques and what I learned about this process and I hope it helps future owners. The skull doesn't interfere with leg removal and the glue on the action button mod doesn't work (or didn't work for me) so I got Gorilla Glue double-sided tape and that worked like a charm. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
So the iron you get will have concentric ring marks from a machining process on the face of the iron. You must remove those or else you are going to put rings into your playfield! I used a lapping stone with fine sandpaper and then Scotch-Brite pads but look up how to lap and do it on a bench or something. Follow the video but what I did was press and smooth out the warm playfield your your fingers. The process is much like applying a screen protector as it's almost like mylar over the entire playfield as the mylar "shrinks" and you squeegee the bubble out to the hole. Try not to breathe in the offgassing fumes (smells like yogurt) however it won't kill you. Oddly removing wood screws created the same smell. For me it worked out great and buttery smooth! As for the washers folding that isn't necessarily due to people cranking away on the screwdriver. Typically as I show that happens when a ball guide acts like a knife edge and bends the washer which will happen because it's a flat disc. You want like 25 or so of these washers: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0070-00-70 They look MUCH better than the junk JJP sent out and you won't even notice them when the game is lit up. Then as Nick Lane said you want to use the steel washer under the playfield to be on top. The washer squishes out and prevents metal to clearcoat contact and absorbs vibration. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Finally the whole "oh my god they installed the wrong posts and this is why the playfield is chipping" is plain bs. You only need to order 2, YES JUST 2 of these posts: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base.html I point out where they need to be installed and I really hope JJP fixes that issue because that is a simple value adjustment on the CNC mill or use the correct post. So it's not every post hole as the person complained about because you can't fit the proper post in because it's too fat. It's just those 2 holes drilled out too large.[quoted image].[quoted image]
Finally the octagon lighting area needs to have the lights diffused. Nearly every game has this issue and a mod is commercially available but why buy it when you have it in your fridge already? This is a 7 year going strong mod for Stern Star Trek insignia: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/st-proprele-warp-ramp-insignia-lighting-mod-[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from fooflighter:

Great write up.
I agree, I think Retro Centgo or whatever the video source was from really took the focus off track and did a disservice to the root issue. Not intentional, but away from the prime focus of the clear and the metal washers being the issue. IMHO the posts used by JJP have nothing to do with the pooling issue...

Quoted from Skyemont:

Ok i am about to get back into my GNRCE and tear this down to put some washers on it, etc...Been way to busy to get it done. I have been out of the loop so here goes. What is the best method to use to fix these STUPID issues? At this time, i think i want to put washers on ALL post. If i am going to tear it down might as well. Cliffys are on the way so im getting close. Does anyone have the amount i need and sizes needed? I need to go w/ black because clear washers will show my damage. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!!!!

Quoted from Vespula:

Good time for an update from you? Still holding strong and how many plays are you up to since your bulletproofing?

Quoted from Skyemont:

Ok i am about to get back into my GNRCE and tear this down to put some washers on it, etc...Been way to busy to get it done. I have been out of the loop so here goes. What is the best method to use to fix these STUPID issues? At this time, i think i want to put washers on ALL post. If i am going to tear it down might as well. Cliffys are on the way so im getting close. Does anyone have the amount i need and sizes needed? I need to go w/ black because clear washers will show my damage. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!!!!

Quoted from fooflighter:

Great write up.
I agree, I think Retro Centgo or whatever the video source was from really took the focus off track and did a disservice to the root issue. Not intentional, but away from the prime focus of the clear and the metal washers being the issue. IMHO the posts used by JJP have nothing to do with the pooling issue...

Quoted from Vespula:

Original post and pictures are back now

Quoted from hool10:

Just get like 20 or something like that and 2 of those alternate posts or 3 if you have a LE/CE. Read my post from last night. It's a really simple process and over dramatized but I would use those translucent silicone washers because they are translucent and cheap. The pooling may be really bad but once you iron it out, it looks like the pooling never occurred then once you install the washer over it, it's completely gone and protected. Cliffy install took me half an hour btw. Some tips are that Cliff included enough inlane protectors for the bottom inlanes only and the apron is secured under the pf with lock nuts and 2 Philips head screws on the pf latch area. Why they added 2 mounting points under the apron is anyone's guess. Be sure to reuse the black washers under the apron and fix the pooling there as well.

Yeah I agree. Aside from calling people morons these posts are not moving. In the video he made it seem like every post was drilled too large when in fact it was only 2 for the SE and 3 for the LE/CE models for the entire game. They are sinking into the clear however but that isn't related to the posts and JJP could get away using the current ones.

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

There should be zero loose posts and nobody should be required to put Pet-G washers on a $10k pin. So this is really on JJP and not the people pointing this out

Quoted from Vespula:

I think a good start is all here in a key post of biblical proportions from fooflighter located in the tech section and entitled NIB Bulletproofing:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/226#post-6338289

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Assume you're referring to #5 in diagram below. That's 1 1/2" and there shouldn't be a need to remove any posts. Just remove enough nuts to be able to carefully lift end of plastic above it and pop new ring in over posts

Quoted from Skyemont:

Thank u so much. Exactly what i needed. But i dont see black.

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Played 1 game, absolutely amazing, wife was happy to beat me lol.
Have 1 issue. The tight lock release is not going up on its own. Throughout a game I noticed it very slowly starting to come up. Once down again the process would repeat. In the test coil menu I can triggering the right coil release did nothing, just a slight noise. Activating the left lock release coil repeatedly caused the right one to slowly go up.
Any suggestions? Thank you.
[quoted image]

Quoted from PanzerFreak:Has anyone else with a July 2021 build not been able to find a manufactured date stamped on the playfield? I can't find it on any side, including all the way at the back. I've bound a couple 4 - 5 text / digit strings but that's it.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

Take a look underneath. This happened to mine but had two issues; the bolt holding the lock was loose and the coil sleeve was worn to a hilt. Doubt your sleeve will be bad though with it so new so check the bolt.

Quoted from brerspidur:

Added a spotlight for axl.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from MJW:

Anyone know what activated the not in this lifetime divertor after the ball leaves the drumsticks?
I’ve only seen it come down twice.

Quoted from daveyvandy:

I've mostly seen it during song modes where you need to hit either the center loop or the coma target: hit it up the right ramp and then it will divert.

Quoted from MJW:

Anyone know what activated the not in this lifetime divertor after the ball leaves the drumsticks?
I’ve only seen it come down twice.

Quoted from Vespula:

I don't think this post got the attention it deserves.
Spotlight on Axl is great.. do tell more.
did you just add a small led from under the playfield? What kind and where did you grab power? Assuming this just static and stays on when the game is powered? Or did you go overboard and tap into hot rails
Did you happen to experiment with different colors and brightness?
As a side note, maybe someone will come up with a nut hiding kit. The skulls at the bottom of axl are cool except I don't like the two nuts and bolt sitting among them. If we had little resin cast skulls we could pop on top cover them up that would be great. Also there's other areas on the playfield where something could sit on top of a nut to cover it up, like Just someone sell a bag of assorted skulls that fit on top of those standard nuts. Obviously a full kit of assorted roses, bullets, skulls, etc to cover all the bolts and screws on the playfield would be awesome.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

Look at the big yellow insert under the right ramp, labeled ‘Detour’. When it’s lit, the diverter will go off.
Civil war is notorious for using the diverter. But once you start recognizing that detour insert, you’ll notice it’s used quite a bit.

Quoted from fooflighter:

About 300 more games after my last posts.. still going strong and no further issues. I didn't replace any posts with the JJP kit either

Quoted from indybru:

I want to thank you for your post and fix. I did everything you mentioned,no problems so far .
Thanks again.

Quoted from Straight2VHS:

Any how, I can’t seem to find any kits on either site that are JJP specific or even generic “Washer / Post kits”. Does anyone happen to know what these kits are and possibly a link to one of them?
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Straight2VHS:

I reached out to JJP support regarding pooling and chipping around the amp/gnr inlane post. I had issues with both pop bumper posts early on. Both came loose and found their way down the playfield. The posts were too short to thread into the t-nuts. I resolved that issue by countersinking the holes so the t-nuts go in further into the back of the playfield. I also had both spotlights replaced under warranty due to failed servos and cracking arms.
Engineering responded to the pooling/chipping issue to go through my distributor. My distributor contacted the same engineer who told my distributor they are not sending out replacement parts for this issue and to buy a kit from Pinball Life or Marco. Not sure why I needed to go through my distributor to get that response. The reponse could have been just sent directly to me without going through my distributor. Any how, I can’t seem to find any kits on either site that are JJP specific or even generic “Washer / Post kits”. Does anyone happen to know what these kits are and possibly a link to one of them?
Thanks!
[quoted image]