(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


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  • 28,103 posts
  • 1,059 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Rolls-Royce
  • Topic is favorited by 467 Pinsiders

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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 188 votes
    17%
  • LE 628 votes
    57%
  • SE 77 votes
    7%
  • None 218 votes
    20%

(1111 votes)

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78 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 28,103 posts in this topic. You are on page 250 of 563.
#12451 2 years ago
Quoted from Khabbi:

Does anyone have pics of these art blades installed on a LE? Sorry if it's been posted, I scanned but couldn't find a pic! These look awesome though before installation!

Pretty sure they aren't shipping until August.

#12452 2 years ago

Those art blades look fantastic, I’ll be getting those for sure, maybe even the official topper which ain’t half bad.

#12453 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

Just remove the posts completely if you can mate. No post = no pooling. That is the plan for pur Gunners when we get it.

Defeat design purpose ?

#12454 2 years ago

^^^^ that’s a thought though, I wonder which ones you could get away with removing?

#12455 2 years ago
Quoted from Sako-TRG:

^^^^ that’s a thought though, I wonder which ones you could get away with removing?

Pretty sure with the fat Williams base longer posts, a petg washer and lock nut you'd be fine.

Movement within the hole for the post seems to be what's chewing up the soft Mirco playfields with poor art adhesion. Fill the hole with hard steel is the goal.

#12456 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Pretty sure with the fat Williams base longer posts, a petg washer and lock nut you'd be fine.
Movement within the hole for the post seems to be what's chewing up the soft Mirco playfields with poor art adhesion. Fill the hole with hard steel is the goal.

Thanks for the tip....
My Distro was kind enough to send out some posts but no washers - only 3 posts with lock nuts
So I’m about to do some preventative measures today.
I have the full cliffy set with 3 x carbon washers
+ 3 x thicker posts.
If I’m to get a game today what area should I concentrate my efforts with posts and 3 washers? - Pops?
Thanks in advance

#12457 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thanks to Pinhead1982 for posting and sharing this alternative post idea.
I have a brand new July build with the updated longer posts + black washers + nylon nuts. Reports of playfield issues on the latest builds have dropped heavily. Would anyone recommend swapping the posts for this one on the latest builds? I assume I could then just get rid of the black washers?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

So your PF is stamped July?

#12458 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

Just remove the posts completely if you can mate. No post = no pooling. That is the plan for pur Gunners when we get it.

I think those posts are there for a reason though; I predict the rollover switches will get bent if you remove them.

21
#12459 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I think those posts are there for a reason though; I predict the rollover switches will get bent if you remove them.

Welcome back

#12460 2 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Haven't played a single game since I unboxed it. Planning install full Cliffy protectors, PETG washers and address all known issues with the game before I hit the start button. Still lots of work to do, but I know it will be worth all of the preparation! The Pinwoofer GT kit sounds fricking amazing, what a difference! Will continue to enjoy jukebox mode for now

How do you activate jukebox mode?
I read somewhere hit action button ?

#12461 2 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

How do you activate jukebox mode?
I read somewhere hit action button ?

Go into your setting to activate it matey then hit action button.
You can put it in manual or auto mode from settings

#12462 2 years ago
Quoted from Sako-TRG:

Go into your setting to activate it matey then hit action button.
You can put it in manual or auto mode from settings

ok thanks.

#12463 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I think those posts are there for a reason though; I predict the rollover switches will get bent if you remove them.

No harm in removing this post - will just make the lock shot really easy I guess.

5E67C39A-4FC6-4337-B933-8FF672E42A0D (resized).jpeg5E67C39A-4FC6-4337-B933-8FF672E42A0D (resized).jpeg

But you’re right on these ones - I think the switches will cop a beating from sideways hits from the pops. Could change them for Mag Reed Switches.
1D969FE1-067E-489A-BA25-E2A2F53742D8 (resized).jpeg1D969FE1-067E-489A-BA25-E2A2F53742D8 (resized).jpeg

#12464 2 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Left flipper failed mid game ..... after only about 20 plays.... screws or should I stay screw backed out of the coil stop. I'm guessing they forgot to put 2 in because I looked everywhere in the cabinet and could only find 1....but I was able to fix the shoot lane

I plan to go over every bolt, nut, screw and post. Checking for tightness, and also check that they're not overtight.
Following the key post for NIB bulletproofing by fooflighter on here is a good starting guide. I'm glad to see modifications made by JJP, but this doesn't exclude due diligence or settling that it can occur during shipping. Or the extra petg washers that I will install per the guide.

Inspect every 50 or so games In the beginning and wax often. If nothing else it will get me focused on playfield to notice damages or notice any pooling before it gets out of control and can make adjustments. Hopefully this doesn't happen obviously.

Once fooflighter did this, he cruised to 1000 games with no further issues, just performing the cleaning maintenance and waxing, as far as I know. Probably spot checks on posts and tightness, etc That's a pretty ok routine. It's just more work in the beginning until the pin settles in and becomes stable.

#12465 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It could be frosted if that's a problem, or the backside of the tubes could have a black coating sprayed on. Either would be less visually annoying than the black cage that seems to be the standard.

I thought the same thing when I got my GNR sign , but if you really wanted , you could easily cut off most of the black cage .
My Pegasus sign has a plastic LED tube which is almost unbreakable , no need for protectors at all .

IMG20210717191553 (resized).jpgIMG20210717191553 (resized).jpg
#12466 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:It’s quite bizarre, so curious what other owners find. For me, once I noticed the nick in the harness the first time, I figured it came like that from factory. JJP sent me a new one, I replaced it, all was good. Then a couple months later I got a random auto ball launch, and then another, and was like wtf? Sure enough, the new harness had the same exact nick in it, but much more minor. JJP sent me out another new one which I haven’t replaced yet, but may do that this weekend since I got another auto plunge the other night.

I'd find out what's causing the nics , before you put on a third harness .

#12467 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I think those posts are there for a reason though; I predict the rollover switches will get bent if you remove them.

Welcome back! I've been watching your GNR rules overview video a couple times to get a grasp of the rules, thanks.

#12468 2 years ago

Does anyone know if it is possible to connect directly to the router for an update, rather than WiFi? My attempts to download beta on 1.22 update fails to verify every time after a couple hours of waiting, ready to move past this. My wonka has no issues in a similar location.

#12469 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Does anyone know if it is possible to connect directly to the router for an update, rather than WiFi? My attempts to download beta on 1.22 update fails to verify every time after a couple hours of waiting, ready to move past this. My wonka has no issues in a similar location.

Yes - You can plug in a network cable to get a direct connection.

#12470 2 years ago

Giving GnR a cleaning and discovered this threaded post. Am I missing something?

20210717_101021 (resized).jpg20210717_101021 (resized).jpg
#12471 2 years ago
Quoted from Chetrico:

Am I missing something?

No.

Probably to prevent a ball trap.

LTG : )

#12472 2 years ago
Quoted from Chetrico:

Giving GnR a cleaning and discovered this threaded post. Am I missing something?
[quoted image]

Mines the same.

#12473 2 years ago

For those that downloaded the beta and played desert demolition. Was it worth the wait or do you think it is still unfinished?

#12474 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

For those that downloaded the beta and played desert demolition. Was it worth the wait or do you think it is still unfinished?

… I was expecting different/better music, is the same theme from before, but now you can race the monsters, you use the Action button to boost your car. Etc, it was 1/10 before(nothing to do) and now probably a 3/10 IMO.

Shall We Play a Game for me is 10/10, Thirst for Carnage and Tear Down the Wall are very good but Desert Demolition needs more improvement and I know there’s lots of potential for that one.

#12475 2 years ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

…you use the start button to boost your car. Etc, it was 1/10 before(nothing to do) and now probably a 3/10 IMO.
Shall We Play a Game for me is 10/10, Thirst for Carnage and Tear Down the Wall are very good but Desert Demolition needs more improvement and I know there’s lots of potential for that one.

Rolls , do you mean the action button ?

#12476 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Rolls , do you mean the action button ?

indeed Scream …. Thanks Mate

#12477 2 years ago

Ordered from Distro 2 Days after launch. I got it in yesterday. Weird thing is the Born on date is next Wednesday! There is a little hanky panky going on! Going over all know issues now.

IMG_4709 (resized).JPGIMG_4709 (resized).JPG
#12478 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I think those posts are there for a reason though; I predict the rollover switches will get bent if you remove them.

Welcome back!

#12479 2 years ago
Quoted from Bfults:

Ordered from Distro 2 Days after launch. I got it in yesterday. Weird thing is the Born on date is next Wednesday! There is a little hanky panky going on! Going over all know issues now.
[quoted image]

That’s "July/2021" I don’t get your point?… It was assembled in this month.

#12480 2 years ago
Quoted from RA77:

Defeat design purpose ?

If it stops the playfield falling apart, yes.

#12481 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

No harm in removing this post - will just make the lock shot really easy I guess.
[quoted image]
But you’re right on these ones - I think the switches will cop a beating from sideways hits from the pops. Could change them for Mag Reed Switches.
[quoted image]

We are still a few months away from getting our game and I am just thinking about different solutions.

#12482 2 years ago
Quoted from Bfults:

Ordered from Distro 2 Days after launch. I got it in yesterday. Weird thing is the Born on date is next Wednesday! There is a little hanky panky going on! Going over all know issues now.
[quoted image]

Thats the year , not the day of the month .

#12483 2 years ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

… indeed Scream …. Thanks Mate

No worries , I just thought it would be weird to bend down and hit the start button
I wish I had my game , so I could know and learn all the rules

#12484 2 years ago
Quoted from Bfults:

Ordered from Distro 2 Days after launch. I got it in yesterday. Weird thing is the Born on date is next Wednesday! There is a little hanky panky going on! Going over all know issues now.
[quoted image]

Lol! Mine says the same date, just got it on its legs. This is the first JJP game I bought that doesn't have an exact build date, just 7/21. Also, I can't find a build date on the playfield, not sure where that is at or if they are no longer stamping them (just a serial number I see).

What are the items that you are going over?

#12485 2 years ago

I’m an idiot!

#12486 2 years ago

Couple loose nuts here and there loose connector and the mylar on my drumsticks it’s really coming off I’m fixing to pull the drumsticks off and do the mylar fix on them.

#12487 2 years ago

Should I just keep trying to download and install this beta? Or am I wasting my time?
I’ve tried 10 times now. I either get a Download error or a failed to verify error. I’ve tried both my 2.4ghz and 5ghz wifi. I’ve tried coin door open and coin door closed. Ives tried rubbing my belly while patting my head.

I’ve never had a problem with a WiFi update before. It’s always been fine on this machine and my Wonka too.

Is there another way around this? Can I just download the code somewhere and plug a USB in?

#12488 2 years ago

post deleted by Cayenne because Art of Pinball saw its rights violated

#12489 2 years ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

3D printing is quite cool for pinheads.
I installed the Ultimate Stage Kit from Sven (Germany) today.
Very easy installation and looks great, as it is hand painted.
Who would like to have it, contact Sven here: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/flipper-modding-jjp-guns-n-roses-le-ce-ultimate-stage-upgrade-kit/1795299856-242-4900
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Installation video here:

Very nice! I am not sure if shipping to North America is an option? Translate not working when I tried it

#12490 2 years ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Very nice! I am not sure if shipping to North America is an option? Translate not working when I tried it

ask Sven (in english), he is very friendly; why should a package to US not working?

#12491 2 years ago
Quoted from Bfults:

I’m an idiot!

Nah, That's your brain on adrenaline...new GnR in da house!

#12492 2 years ago
Quoted from Bfults:

Couple loose nuts here and there loose connector and the mylar on my drumsticks it’s really coming off I’m fixing to pull the drumsticks off and do the mylar fix on them.

What's the Mylar fix?

#12493 2 years ago
Quoted from Shmilder:

What's the Mylar fix?

It's in the tech section of key posts
TECH: PLAYFIELD. Drumstick mylar fix

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/213#post-6316746

#12494 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I think those posts are there for a reason though; I predict the rollover switches will get bent if you remove them.

Welcome back buddy. How is my popbumper sollution working out for you?

#12495 2 years ago

Added a spotlight for axl.

20210717_165448 (resized).jpg20210717_165448 (resized).jpg20210717_165717 (resized).jpg20210717_165717 (resized).jpg
#12496 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I think those posts are there for a reason though; I predict the rollover switches will get bent if you remove them.

You look rested.

10
#12497 2 years ago

I’ve just finished pool proofing my Wonka CE. EVERY SINGLE POST without fail had pooling.

There’s basically 2 types of posts - those with under pf t-nuts and those that are through hole posts secured under pf with a lock nut.

Imo the t-nut posts are most prone to actual damage because of post movement.

I’ve found a nice solution using Weld Nuts and Silicone washers. I think it’s one of the most effective and best looking solutions because it eliminates movement, provides good support, is not too thick, and uses silicone for the contact points. I’ll do a more detailed write up when I start working on GNR soon. 2CAAEC27-53D0-4F33-B887-777F61CE6F4E (resized).jpeg2CAAEC27-53D0-4F33-B887-777F61CE6F4E (resized).jpeg4161705B-B7BD-4D4E-99E7-59FD3176CAE1 (resized).jpeg4161705B-B7BD-4D4E-99E7-59FD3176CAE1 (resized).jpeg5518146A-D9DB-4178-9EFD-2768FF89B0EB (resized).jpeg5518146A-D9DB-4178-9EFD-2768FF89B0EB (resized).jpeg497C1346-DD35-46C6-9AA1-BEE922E6ECE1 (resized).jpeg497C1346-DD35-46C6-9AA1-BEE922E6ECE1 (resized).jpegEC272A5E-B0C8-44DB-B672-61ED414CFF04 (resized).jpegEC272A5E-B0C8-44DB-B672-61ED414CFF04 (resized).jpeg

For the through hole posts - best to swap over to the Williams style ones mentioned here if not already used. Just a small metal washer and silicone washer is good for those (no weld nut needed).

If the clear hasn’t cracked and you’ve ironed it flat, not a bad idea to also put a Mylar ring down first.

#12498 2 years ago

So I personally just spent 6 hours toiling away on my GnR Standard. I used the Buffalo Pinball video as guidance

and I used this post as well (along with Yellow Bird). https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/226?fbclid=IwAR0Tqv7xF5iKdzok07Mrbq4W0396cJyhfPcr2oLDeerpZWtJ3h3c1ovtYVg#post-6338289

I installed a full set of Cliffy Protectors, the Lior Shooter Rod/Skull and Action Button mod. I also got as many pooling posts as I could fixed and while I didn't get everything the ones I didn't get had such a small amount of pooling I may tackle it in the future if it gets worse. These are my techniques and what I learned about this process and I hope it helps future owners. The skull doesn't interfere with leg removal and the glue on the action button mod doesn't work (or didn't work for me) so I got Gorilla Glue double-sided tape and that worked like a charm. IMG_20210701_191856 (resized).jpgIMG_20210701_191856 (resized).jpgIMG_20210701_192337 (resized).jpgIMG_20210701_192337 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_131506 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_131506 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_133412 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_133412 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_133418 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_133418 (resized).jpg

So the iron you get will have concentric ring marks from a machining process on the face of the iron. You must remove those or else you are going to put rings into your playfield! I used a lapping stone with fine sandpaper and then Scotch-Brite pads but look up how to lap and do it on a bench or something. Follow the video but what I did was press and smooth out the warm playfield your your fingers. The process is much like applying a screen protector as it's almost like mylar over the entire playfield as the mylar "shrinks" and you squeegee the bubble out to the hole. Try not to breathe in the offgassing fumes (smells like yogurt) however it won't kill you. Oddly removing wood screws created the same smell. For me it worked out great and buttery smooth! As for the washers folding that isn't necessarily due to people cranking away on the screwdriver. Typically as I show that happens when a ball guide acts like a knife edge and bends the washer which will happen because it's a flat disc. You want like 25 or so of these washers: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0070-00-70 They look MUCH better than the junk JJP sent out and you won't even notice them when the game is lit up. Then as Nick Lane said you want to use the steel washer under the playfield to be on top. The washer squishes out and prevents metal to clearcoat contact and absorbs vibration. IMG_20210717_135144 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_135144 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_135713 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_135713 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_140246 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_140246 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_140827 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_140827 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_141532 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_141532 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_141540 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_141540 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_143449 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_143449 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_161322 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_161322 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_161329 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_161329 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_162444 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_162444 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_162452 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_162452 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_162646 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_162646 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_162415 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_162415 (resized).jpg

Finally the whole "oh my god they installed the wrong posts and this is why the playfield is chipping" is plain bs. You only need to order 2, YES JUST 2 of these posts: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base.html I point out where they need to be installed and I really hope JJP fixes that issue because that is a simple value adjustment on the CNC mill or use the correct post. So it's not every post hole as the person complained about because you can't fit the proper post in because it's too fat. It's just those 2 holes drilled out too large.IMG_20210717_134926 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_134926 (resized).jpg.IMG_20210717_185836 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_185836 (resized).jpg

Finally the octagon lighting area needs to have the lights diffused. Nearly every game has this issue and a mod is commercially available but why buy it when you have it in your fridge already? This is a 7 year going strong mod for Stern Star Trek insignia: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/st-proprele-warp-ramp-insignia-lighting-mod-IMG_20210717_170651 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_170651 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_172001 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_172001 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_190530 (resized).jpgIMG_20210717_190530 (resized).jpg

#12499 2 years ago
Quoted from hool10:

You only need to order 2, YES JUST 2 of these posts: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base.html I point out where they need to be installed and I really hope JJP fixes that issue because that is a simple value adjustment on the CNC mill or use the correct post.

My guess is they originally had those posts scheduled for the wider plastic star posts (which use t-nuts), then changed to the metal ones after production as they were too wide. Having said that they’re 10-32 which is not the usual size t-nut for star posts.

#12500 2 years ago
Quoted from hool10:

So I personally just spent 6 hours toiling away on my GnR Standard. I used the Buffalo Pinball video as guidance and I used this post as well (along with Yellow Bird). https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/226?fbclid=IwAR0Tqv7xF5iKdzok07Mrbq4W0396cJyhfPcr2oLDeerpZWtJ3h3c1ovtYVg#post-6338289
I installed a full set of Cliffy Protectors, the Lior Shooter Rod/Skull and Action Button mod. I also got as many pooling posts as I could fixed and while I didn't get everything the ones I didn't get had such a small amount of pooling I may tackle it in the future if it gets worse. These are my techniques and what I learned about this process and I hope it helps future owners. The skull doesn't interfere with leg removal and the glue on the action button mod doesn't work (or didn't work for me) so I got Gorilla Glue double-sided tape and that worked like a charm. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
So the iron you get will have concentric ring marks from a machining process on the face of the iron. You must remove those or else you are going to put rings into your playfield! I used a lapping stone with fine sandpaper and then Scotch-Brite pads but look up how to lap and do it on a bench or something. Follow the video but what I did was press and smooth out the warm playfield your your fingers. The process is much like applying a screen protector as it's almost like mylar over the entire playfield as the mylar "shrinks" and you squeegee the bubble out to the hole. Try not to breathe in the offgassing fumes (smells like yogurt) however it won't kill you. Oddly removing wood screws created the same smell. For me it worked out great and buttery smooth! As for the washers folding that isn't necessarily due to people cranking away on the screwdriver. Typically as I show that happens when a ball guide acts like a knife edge and bends the washer which will happen because it's a flat disc. You want like 25 or so of these washers: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-700-0070-00-70 They look MUCH better than the junk JJP sent out and you won't even notice them when the game is lit up. Then as Nick Lane said you want to use the steel washer under the playfield to be on top. The washer squishes out and prevents metal to clearcoat contact and absorbs vibration. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Finally the whole "oh my god they installed the wrong posts and this is why the playfield is chipping" is plain bs. You only need to order 2, YES JUST 2 of these posts: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base.html I point out where they need to be installed and I really hope JJP fixes that issue because that is a simple value adjustment on the CNC mill or use the correct post. So it's not every post hole as the person complained about because you can't fit the proper post in because it's too fat. It's just those 2 holes drilled out too large.[quoted image].[quoted image]
Finally the octagon lighting area needs to have the lights diffused. Nearly every game has this issue and a mod is commercially available but why buy it when you have it in your fridge already? This is a 7 year going strong mod for Stern Star Trek insignia: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/st-proprele-warp-ramp-insignia-lighting-mod-[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cooked71:

I’ve just finished pool proofing my Wonka CE. EVERY SINGLE POST without fail had pooling.
There’s basically 2 types of posts - those with under pf t-nuts and those that are through hole posts secured under pf with a lock nut.
Imo the t-nut posts are most prone to actual damage because of post movement.
I’ve found a nice solution using Weld Nuts and Silicone washers. I think it’s one of the most effective and best looking solutions because it eliminates movement, provides good support, is not too thick, and uses silicone for the contact points. I’ll do a more detailed write up when I start working on GNR soon. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
For the through hole posts - best to swap over to the Williams style ones mentioned here if not already used. Just a small metal washer and silicone washer is good for those (no weld nut needed).
If the clear hasn’t cracked and you’ve ironed it flat, not a bad idea to also put a Mylar ring down first.

Very cool set of posts tonight! Thank you both!

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Electronics
From: $ 35.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Tulsa, OK
$ 28.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
Side Gig Studios
Other
€ 69.00
Pinball Machine
Multiball mods
Pinball Machine
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 49.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 6.00
$ 100.00
Boards
Led Pinball
Boards
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
Decorations
7,500 (OBO)
8,500 (OBO)
$ 10,200.00
Pinball Machine
The Pinball Place
Pinball Machine
$ 6.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
$ 124.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 210.00
Flipper Parts
Pin Monk
Flipper parts
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
€ 42.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PPmods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 100.00
Electronics
Led Pinball
Electronics
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 649.95
Lighting - Interactive
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Interactive
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