(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 28,085 posts
  • 1,059 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by PinFever
  • Topic is favorited by 467 Pinsiders

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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 188 votes
    17%
  • LE 628 votes
    57%
  • SE 77 votes
    7%
  • None 218 votes
    20%

(1111 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

78 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 28,085 posts in this topic. You are on page 245 of 562.
#12201 2 years ago

Thanks LTG! You've saved my behind the last 10 years with all the advice!

#12202 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

I’m replacing JJP posts with WPC ones- Tight fit, post doesn’t move [quoted image]

If you are replacing the problem posts mentioned here (upper pf and in the pops) those posts are secured with t-nuts. To accommodate the t-nut itself, the hole is wider than both those posts. Won’t make any difference - they’ll both still have ”wiggle room”. Unless there are instances where JJP is installing those posts on the left (which are meant for t-nuts) in holes design for the post on the right (which is meant for smaller through holes).

#12203 2 years ago

Be aware the top bumper lock washers (the ones that go into the wood) on the bottom are not very strong. I had to take both out and replace them with steel washers on the bottom with the nylon nuts. Great news is they seem to work. I had a little tear on the left one (after 40 plays on a June build) and it disappeared once I got the plastic washer on top. 200 games and no issues.

#12204 2 years ago

I did the bottom 2 posts out of concern but there have been no issues. No tearing or any issues. Mine is a June build.

#12205 2 years ago

Maybe 7 posts you you to worry about. Due to all the multi-ball in a tight space trying to get jackpots. Enjoy the game. It's a hoot!

#12206 2 years ago

Now the most disappointing part. My Limor action button broke in half at the bottom of the bottom. Had little tape on the backside. Very disappointed for $ 270 bucks.

#12207 2 years ago
Quoted from sanantoniopinhea:

Now the most disappointing part. My Limor action button broke in half at the bottom of the bottom. Had little tape on the backside. Very disappointed for $ 270 bucks.

What's the material it's made of?

#12208 2 years ago

I have no idea. Glue does not work. I finally had use a sharpie and use real stickie tape

#12209 2 years ago

i just hope my speaker set arrives. I had to pay for that a few months ago

#12210 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

What's the material it's made of?

... the Lior action button mod.. some kind of acrylic?

Quoted from sanantoniopinhea:

Now the most disappointing part. My Limor (sp.Lior) action button broke in half at the bottom of the bottom. Had little tape on the backside. Very disappointed for $ 270 bucks.

There's a Lior art of pinball thread here... See what can be done.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-guns-n-roses-sculpted-mods-by-the-art-of-pinball/page/10#post-6369950

#12211 2 years ago
Quoted from sanantoniopinhea:

I have no idea. Glue does not work. I finally had use a sharpie and use real stickie tape

Mine is a little loose on one side as the glue is not grabbing the lock down bar. I better look into it as I dont want it to break. I does seem fragile if it is loose.

#12212 2 years ago
Quoted from sanantoniopinhea:

I have no idea. Glue does not work. I finally had use a sharpie and use real stickie tape

please send me pm you will get new one with no charge. also if you broke it by mistake we will send you new one
and the button cost 225$ not 270

Quoted from sanantoniopinhea:

i just hope my speaker set arrives. I had to pay for that a few months ago

we sent the speakers to Little shop of games before a month but Fedex damage all of the packages. we are sending new sets this week tp little shop of games.

Quoted from PinMonk:

What's the material it's made of?

made by smooth on resin

Quoted from marksf123:

Mine is a little loose on one side as the glue is not grabbing the lock down bar. I better look into it as I dont want it to break. I does seem fragile if it is loose.

please send me a photo. will send you a new one

#12213 2 years ago

**** TO ALL OF OUR CUSTOMERS ****

Lior is here

I'm NOT active on pinside anymore. my team will respond to your messages and my team will post new mods and new threads.
I'm very very busy and i'm trying to target my time on creation, sculpting, packing and quality check only.

When you are buying my mods you pay top money on them and you should get the best quality on the market and also the best customers service.
sometimes my distributors are very busy and wont respond for long time.

all of my products made by hand and there is few runs of each creation. its all hand painted too. and all is cast by resin.

If you got my product and it wont fit or it broke or you broke it by mistake or you are not happy with it r if you just want to say hello PLEASE contact me direct!
you can get me on Facebook Lior Rajwan
or by email
[email protected]
you are also welcome to contact me if your distributor wont respond for long time (not about when the topper is available LOL. patience! it will worth it.)

i will do my best to solve the issue and to send you a new replacement with no charge or asking to return it if it broke.

we have some projects thats we are working on right now for pinball but its not mods. GNR topper will be available soon and it will be under 2000$!

we have the bumpers coming soon too and also Mandolorian mods

Thank you very much for your support and love

#12214 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

I’m replacing JJP posts with WPC ones- Tight fit, post doesn’t move [quoted image]

What is the part number and how many posts do I need? I'm probably picking up like 50 or whatever silicone washers today.

#12215 2 years ago
Quoted from dmj1977:

I didn’t see any key posts on the topic but my scoop has started ejecting lower and lower on the left flipper. When I installed Cliffys I made sure to really turn the scoop guard to the left and it was consistently delivering to the middle of the flipper. Now that it’s drifting is the best/only option to pull the whole upper playfield off, move everything out of the way and turn and tighten the scoop? Or are there simpler (but reliable ways) to tweak it?

Anyone have a solution?

#12216 2 years ago
Quoted from dug:

Anyone have a solution?

I went through this .There’s 1 solution .Pull the hood out ,screw it to a board ,Put painters tape around it ,then take you pliers and twist toward the left just a little bit .

#12217 2 years ago
Quoted from dug:

Anyone have a solution?

I have to adjust mine every so often. I just use a nut driver to loosen the two scoop screws, turn it to the left and retighten. No need to remove anything

#12218 2 years ago

Quick Question....This is new, pressed start to play game and plunged ball and hit right flipper twice and it starts Ignite the Flames....Every time we start a game it does it on the first plunge...hit right flipper twice and it ignites. Why would the right flipper start ignite the flames? THANKS!

#12219 2 years ago
Quoted from blkspiderman:

Quick Question....This is new, pressed start to play game and plunged ball and hit right flipper twice and it starts Ignite the Flames....Every time we start a game it does it on the first plunge...hit right flipper twice and it ignites. Why would the right flipper start ignite the flames? THANKS!

Adjust the switch it’s to close.

#12220 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Adjust the switch it’s to close.

Which Switch? THANK YOU!

#12221 2 years ago
Quoted from blkspiderman:

Quick Question....This is new, pressed start to play game and plunged ball and hit right flipper twice and it starts Ignite the Flames....Every time we start a game it does it on the first plunge...hit right flipper twice and it ignites. Why would the right flipper start ignite the flames? THANKS!

Glass off. Go into system menu. Go into switch test mode. Smack the playfield firmly with your hand in a few places. Note which switch triggers on the screen when you hit the PF and adjust that switch to be less sensitive. You are getting switch registration from the flipper vibration. Note that it may be more than one switch you need to adjust.

#12222 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Glass off. Go into system menu. Go into switch test mode. Smack the playfield firmly with your hand in a few places. Note which switch triggers on the screen when you hit the PF and adjust that switch to be less sensitive. You are getting switch registration from the flipper vibration. Note that it may be more than one switch you need to adjust.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

#12223 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Glass off. Go into system menu. Go into switch test mode. Smack the playfield firmly with your hand in a few places. Note which switch triggers on the screen when you hit the PF and adjust that switch to be less sensitive. You are getting switch registration from the flipper vibration. Note that it may be more than one switch you need to adjust.

Impressive answer Vireland…. I must say that I forgot how many times you helped me with Batman 66, WOZ and KISS man, I thank you again for all of that Vic. Thank you!

#12224 2 years ago
Quoted from hool10:

What is the part number and how many posts do I need? I'm probably picking up like 50 or whatever silicone washers today.

Should be this
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4660

#12225 2 years ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Impressive answer Vireland…. I must say that I forgot how many times you helped me with Batman 66, WOZ and KISS man, I thank you again for all of that Vic. Thank you!

Happy to help. We're all n00bs in the beginning...

#12226 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Little circle on the left side ?

During encores, there is an Album level next to the song level - sounds like you were looking at the Album level. I was watching someone else play today and was confused by the scoring until I realized there were two circles - one for album and one for song.

#12227 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Boy, If they deem this complete, then I’d be concerned.
• Demolition Derby isn’t coded.
• scoring balances
• slash and album modes need more incentives.
I thought I remember reading somewhere that Keefer was working on these things. But it could be just another falsified rumor.
That said; I’ve got a new strategy that has significantly increased my average scores (not peek scores). I’ll go in more depth later, but it’s basically cashing out of songs once you light the extra ball, and getting right back into a song with the help of patches and jam target. Minimal use of boosters. Surprisingly, on my 6th song last night, I had my jackpot up to 115 mil, it would have been my highest score with this new strat; with approx 15-20 secs left in the song, I double drained! Lol.

Keefer did indicate he would do score balancing on a tiltforums post in March - http://tiltforums.com/t/guns-n-roses-jjp-rulesheet/6803/21

#12228 2 years ago
Quoted from hool10:

What is the part number and how many posts do I need? I'm probably picking up like 50 or whatever silicone washers today.

They are the same posts as on the TAF bookcase..

The post do not move - no wiggle room at all!

Quoted from cooked71:

If you are replacing the problem posts mentioned here (upper pf and in the pops) those posts are secured with t-nuts. To accommodate the t-nut itself, the hole is wider than both those posts. Won’t make any difference - they’ll both still have ”wiggle room”. Unless there are instances where JJP is installing those posts on the left (which are meant for t-nuts) in holes design for the post on the right (which is meant for smaller through holes).

Taking the T Nuts out of the pop area - trust me.. the WPC posts don’t move at all.. Try one

#12229 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

More
Taking the T Nuts out of the pop area - trust me.. the WPC posts don’t move at all.. Try one

Absolutely. Going to try eveything.

#12230 2 years ago
Quoted from blkspiderman:

Which Switch? THANK YOU!

Your Pyro switch behind the hat is rubbing. Just make a slight adjustment.

#12231 2 years ago

Up the playfield past the spinning album, on the left, behind the rubber ring.

LTG : )

#12232 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

I’m replacing JJP posts with WPC ones- Tight fit, post doesn’t move [quoted image]

how many are needed?

#12233 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Glass off. Go into system menu. Go into switch test mode. Smack the playfield firmly with your hand in a few places. Note which switch triggers on the screen when you hit the PF and adjust that switch to be less sensitive. You are getting switch registration from the flipper vibration. Note that it may be more than one switch you need to adjust.

Note the latest versions have an improvement to save wear and tear on your hand - the + diag button will turn on the shaker for a bit to vibrate the playfield for you and cause any flaky switches to activate.

#12234 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I was thinking it would be so cool if there was a way for them to add a new mode. I would call it “crowd surfing.”
It starts by ripping the left spinner x number of times and then the mode starts (like disco mode in DP). A lit shots starts at the left spinner, and once you hit it the next shot to the right is lit. You keep progressing over to the far right shot under the flipper to toss the “surfer” over the guardrail and collect a bazillion points.
Lol that would mix it up and add a new dimension to the game. And have it be available to start anytime except song modes. I can dream I guess

Sounds fun .
I was thinking it would be cool if you could play The Wizard mode like in JP .
I haven't watched Carl d'angelos YouTube video on it , but I heard it's really good and you use opposite flippers and other stuff .
It sucks to have such a great mode and a lot of people will never see it .
I can't see the harm in being able to enable it in settings .
The more ways you can mix up gameplay and have different options , the better .

#12235 2 years ago
Quoted from frobozz:

Note the latest versions have an improvement to save wear and tear on your hand - the + diag button will turn on the shaker for a bit to vibrate the playfield for you and cause any flaky switches to activate.

We don't deserve Keith.

#12236 2 years ago

@thot

Not sure - So far I have done the 3 outlane posts..
On my playfield- I had to gently Tap the posts in with a hammer, until thread was out the bottom, then the nut pulled the posts in.

My Playfield posts in the bumper area - not sure if JJP has used loctite or something. I can’t undo the posts.. Not sure what I’m going to do to get them out.

#12237 2 years ago

Take the nut off the bottom of the post?

#12238 2 years ago
Quoted from sanantoniopinhea:

Now the most disappointing part. My Limor action button broke in half at the bottom of the bottom. Had little tape on the backside. Very disappointed for $ 270 bucks.

Sucks to read this, I thought about it but I read is made of resin and it was an easy pass for me. I would have prefer the same thing but 3D printed.

#12239 2 years ago
Quoted from tk375:

Sucks to read this, I thought about it but I read is made of resin and it was an easy pass for me. I would have prefer the same thing but 3D printed.

In that location on the lockdown bar, seems like some kind of flexible material would be better suited to the abuse it gets.

#12240 2 years ago
Quoted from tk375:

Sucks to read this, I thought about it but I read is made of resin and it was an easy pass for me. I would have prefer the same thing but 3D printed.

Resin is much much more durable than 3D printed ABS or PLA. we are not doing resin print that get damage very easy and doesn't suitable for production. we are doing CASTING with silicone molds ONLY! and also the quality is 1000 times better than 3d printed parts. its all made by hand! if it will brake also during installation or after long time just contact me and you will get new one with no charge at all. we stand behind our products
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Quoted from PinMonk:

In that location on the lockdown bar, seems like some kind of flexible material would be better suited to the abuse it gets.

Did you check it in person? There is over 200 kinds of resins. We are using the best resin by smooth on that is flexible and also can get big impacts. same for the paints. its only because sometimes the air is trapped in the tiny spots also if we are using vacuum or pressure chambers. but as i said if it broke you will get new one

#12241 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

I’m replacing JJP posts with WPC ones- Tight fit, post doesn’t move [quoted image]

Is it the post you are talking about ?
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base.html

#12242 2 years ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

but as i said if it broke you will get new one

Which is a lot more warranty than the arseholes who made the machine it's going on are giving.

#12243 2 years ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

Resin is much much more durable than 3D printed ABS or PLA. we are not doing resin print that get damage very easy and doesn't suitable for production. we are doing CASTING with silicone molds ONLY! and also the quality is 1000 times better than 3d printed parts. its all made by hand! if it will brake also during installation or after long time just contact me and you will get new one with no charge at all. we stand behind our products
[quoted image]

Did you check it in person? There is over 200 kinds of resins. We are using the best resin by smooth on that is flexible and also can get big impacts. same for the paints. its only because sometimes the air is trapped in the tiny spots also if we are using vacuum or pressure chambers. but as i said if it broke you will get new one

+1 to resin instead of plastic, especially 3D printer plastic. Can't wait to receive my machine so I can buy these mods

#12244 2 years ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

Did you check it in person? There is over 200 kinds of resins. We are using the best resin by smooth on that is flexible and also can get big impacts. same for the paints. its only because sometimes the air is trapped in the tiny spots also if we are using vacuum or pressure chambers. but as i said if it broke you will get new one

Haven't seen one in person. I just know that most of the cast resin I've had/seen is not super-flexible. If you're using a flexible resin, that's great.

Oh, and cast resin>3d filaments all day long.

#12245 2 years ago

Can't see why it would have to flex if it was molded on the bottom to the shape of the bar. My cheapy is not molded but is flat. Doesn't sit quite as well as it should.

#12246 2 years ago
Quoted from Xelz:

+1 to resin instead of plastic, especially 3D printer plastic. Can't wait to receive my machine so I can buy these mods

I bought all the mods, and I'm still waiting to receive my machine.

#12247 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

I bought all the mods, and I'm still waiting to receive my machine.

Heh. So I did that with Deadpool - bought a gazillion mods and a subwoofer. And then the machine arrived with a damaged cabinet. Luckily my distributor is working with Stern to send me a replacement cabinet (I'll still need to move everything else over), but it made me realize I need to wait for the machine to arrive before investing way too much money into mods.

#12248 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I have to adjust mine every so often. I just use a nut driver to loosen the two scoop screws, turn it to the left and retighten. No need to remove anything

Thanks mate - I thought it was too tight to get a driver in there - way easier than I expected

#12249 2 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Take the nut off the bottom of the post?

yup done that. There is also T nut that the post screws into.

They have been tightened hard! Socket set not touching it.. socket just slips!

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