There are many things that can cause pooling. A play field protector can’t mitigate them all.

With all the effort it takes to install one, how frustrating would it be to see pooling and have to take the protector off to fix it?

Well for one, a giant sheet of formerly grandma's-couch-bound plastic diverted to a playfield is going to inhibit the breathing that the soft Mirco clearcoat needs to finish curing. So there's that. At the very least it will lengthen the amount of time for the clear to fully harden. Another plastic playfield protector negative specific to JJP pins.

True - but the problem is not specific to JJP:

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/docs/PP_QuickTip_Wet_Spots.pdf

Of course. It applies to any new playfield to some degree. But it's been a big problem with these Mirco JJP playfields for at least 3 machines now, so it's an obvious negative.

Can someone help me find this fooflighter post or one similar? I am trying to find a list of all the work/items that I need to do when I get my machine. Thanks

Click on TOPIC INDEX at the top of any page in this thread. Click on "Keypost summary" to sort the posts by subject, then extend the list and look in the "TECH" section for the one about NIB bulletproofing.

Got my new magnet coil installed today.
Works great.
Decided to take a peek under the wrapper on the old coil.
Here is a photo just for fun.

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Fuck yeah, congratulations sir! Get an Aerosmith in there at some point too!

Got my ASle twice in comp yesterday. Haven't played it for yonks, but found myself dancing and jumping up and down. I should move it up the front and move GnR down the back.

This really is kind of a kludge solution for the magnet coil. I wonder if they could manage the heat better by changing the duty cycle, hard pulse to grab and then into a hold pattern that's less hard on the coil until the ball is released.

Or maybe even some kind of resistance output on the coil line so when the resistance gets above a certain point, the software knows and the magnet feature is just not available, so software compensation takes over? Seems like there must be a better way...

Did you get a picture with the whole part visible so the number is shown that would give us a clue what temp it's turning off at?

So during double talking jive, I had scoop lit for applause finish and as I was trying to hit the scoop, the flippers died and drained me, then started next ball. Is this a known bug or what? It’s never done that on any other song.

Not a bug. When the song ends the flippers die and you can plunge again. Same ball. You missed the applause jackpot.

Thanks for the pics. Definitely not in my future.

I’m a new owner and still learning all the rules and code. My game seems weird when it comes to advancing band members. I know what is required for advancing each band member. I also know lighting the right in lane and hitting the jam button will advance a band member. As well as the mystery on the scoop could possibly advance a band member. My issue is on new games before reaching the very first song I noticed sometimes AXL gets advanced when I never even made it to the top lanes and also the bass member is advanced even though I didn’t hit the left ramp or make it to the upper Playfield. Also sometimes when I drain and start a new ball it will say song is lit even though on the ball before not all band members were lit. Is this normal? Thank you

You can also get band members spotted by collecting their patch. And after each drain you’re spotted (2-3?) missing members by design. Unsure if there are other ways to collect.

In regards to code is it completed at this point? I thought I read someone saying that a bunch of things are still missing or haven't been coded yet. Not sure how true that is.

Oh man, I had no idea applause had a timer to hit it or you lose it. Thanks for the input. I’m glad it’s not a problem to sort out with my game then.

People seem to feel more code is coming but I’m not sure why they feel that way. I’ve not seen any statement either way from JJP…not that JJP ever says much on this topic.

Boy, If they deem this complete, then I’d be concerned.

• Demolition Derby isn’t coded.
• scoring balances
• slash and album modes need more incentives.

I thought I remember reading somewhere that Keefer was working on these things. But it could be just another falsified rumor.

That said; I’ve got a new strategy that has significantly increased my average scores (not peek scores). I’ll go in more depth later, but it’s basically cashing out of songs once you light the extra ball, and getting right back into a song with the help of patches and jam target. Minimal use of boosters. Surprisingly, on my 6th song last night, I had my jackpot up to 115 mil, it would have been my highest score with this new strat; with approx 15-20 secs left in the song, I double drained! Lol.

That’s great to hear. I’ve still not so much as watched a video of the gameplay, waiting for my game to arrive and my distro to send me the good news. Have the spot in the lineup ready, sold my BM66 to fund this game.

Wow! I haven't been studying it by any means but high level strategies are fuzzy at best for me, intentionally as I wait as well. I've been on location playing it but mostly flailing as I slowly pick up some basics and try out new things. I couldn't avoid going on location, no way!

It's so noisy in there I can't even hear the game however... And last time I Just discovered that you can hold the right flipper down to get into a player configuration mode and set up Bluetooth.

So I brought my noise canceling Bluetooth headphones with me last night and went on location for Father's Day celebration and while it was tricky to get them paired I finally managed to do that by restarting Bluetooth on the pin over and over until I could see my headphones on the pin, then I connected them and wow what a totally new great experience playing with stereo headphones on and noise canceling all the background location music and bar noise. So immersive!!

Check it out if you have not tried this!

Wow... You are in for a treat. The game blows me away and I watched pretty much every stream before my game arrived last week.
Definitely a different and unique pinball experience!

I have to agree with that last statement. The superlatives don't do justice to the magic and majesty of this pin. Every time I've played it, I've walked away smiling and thinking about the next time I'll have an opportunity to play it again. It might be the biggest adrenaline rush I've ever had on a pinball game. Thanks for the feedback, everyone.

Not being able to hear the game you're trying to play is the biggest downside for me about playing games on location. Thus, I always appreciated being able to connect headphones/earbuds into JJP games when I played them on location pre-COVID. Even better now that JJP is incorporating Bluetooth capability!

So, has anyone received their GnR and ordered in December?

I need help, my sensors have stopped responding.
Also don't do anything when I try to calibrate them.
At the bottom left of the screen will appear: NO SENSOR FOUND: CHECK PFD BOARD.
And everything looks good there.

Thanks

Turn the game off. Reseat connectors to it and be sure they are on tight.

LTG : )

Any idea which switch Matrix switch #35 is on an LE?

20210620_124330 (resized).jpg

Don't have the game yet, but any chance you can go to: Tests->Switch Tests->Single Switch
Then go to matrix 35?

I would think it would pull up the diagram of the playfield and highlight the switch location.

I love this in JJP games btw

It´s the wired gate before the 6-ball lock on the upper playfield.
Please check post #11401 for a hint to fix this.
You can see the map/locations of the switches (coloured by status) within the Test Menu: Tests-Switch Tests-Matrixed Switches, if you see the matrix tiles, press the Start button (pls also check page 16 of the manual (version May 2021)
Switch 35 - 3 (resized).jpg

Great tip. I tried it, but it did not change the status on the menu so I will call my dealer.

Yes that worked thanks. It is a real nice feature. The switch still doesn't tho lol.

Did you install cliffies?

No, it's just like I got it 2 weeks ago.

The reason I asked is someone else installed a cliffy and in the process pinched the wire going to that switch. You might want to visually inspect the switch on the top to see if all the wires are attached, and then follow the wiring below to see if it's pinched.

Manually activating the switch arm with your finger doesn't activate the switch in the switch test?

Yup, that did turn out to be the problem. My mistake was not realizing that the switch wasn't opening before it went back into closed. when I looked at it closer it made sense. Thanks again everybody for the help.

I saved the coil. So I will take another photo it a bit and post it up.

*Edit* and here it is

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Let me start by saying I truly love the style of play .It’s Unique which I’m all about with a modest collection .I’ve been in touch with JJP on this but can someone please ,please send a pic of your scoop undressed . This is my Achilles heal and I can’t seem to get it right .Does your holes for the snubber run parallel with the back of the scoop insert or is it off centered like mine ?A few people have told me these holes are way off but have not received a pic as I’m guessing not many ,If any have taken the UPF apart as much as I have .This is a dream pin for me but it’s getting frustrating .The base of the snubber does not allow me the room to drill out enough to get the ball center left flipper .Yes I understand ,I’m still new but I’m not incompetent .This shit is right up my ally as far as what I do for a living .Please if anyone can help I’d greatly appreciate it ,We want to enjoy this game .I will be turning the pliers on my last scoop and hopefully will work (thanks Chuckwurt)but I need to know first and foremost are these holes in the right place .Thanks to all for help

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Thanks! If I'm reading that right, it is set to disconnect power at 185F. Given the temps on the flippers and diverter coil, that seems kinda low for the magnet if it's worked heavily.

Holes look good to me. Honestly...you just need to use pliars and bend the scoop to the side..A little bend goes a long way..to be safe...I bent mine off the machine screwed to a piece of wood and with a microfiber shielding the scoop from the pliars...a couple test fits and done
20210423_141526 (resized).jpg20210423_142655 (resized).jpg

Anyone know what would cause the keyboard sensors to pickup upon trough eject? That’s the only time I can tell that they misfire, every game. I’ve tried reseating connectors, and calibrating, to no avail. I’ve searched this topic, but haven’t seen this particular issue with the sensors.

Vibration? Go into test mode and smack the playfield and mini playfield with an open palm (or as much as you can on the mini pf). Do they trigger?

Now I’m wondering if there is even an issue. There’s a sound callout of a keyboard swipe (?) upon the plunge, and the keys are still flashing. Maybe this is normal and I’m broke.

Have already reseat the cables. That worked for 1 game.
The two guitar locks go up and down randomly.

Thanks

Someone else recently found that the other end of the USB cable for this board, the end plugged in to the PC cage in the head, was only plugged in about halfway. Check that end. If the board isn't recognized at all (based on the error message you reported) it's likely to be a USB cable problem, which usually means one end or the other isn't plugged in properly.

Checked it again, reseat cables and everything looks good.
Start up, the two locks of the guitar go up and down randomly and no sensor works. (guitar, skillshot, piano).
It is also not possible to calibrate in the menu.

And you still get the "Check PFD board" message on startup? And in sensor calibration test they all appear red? So now see if anything on that board works. The hotrails (you can see in attract mode if they are working)? The spotlights (they have their own device test, do they move?) The two little status LEDs on that board, do they both blink at a fairly fast rate? (If you pull the USB cable while everything is powered up, you can see the slow default blink rate that they both should have... does plugging the USB cable back in make them both blink faster like they should?)

Next try pulling the "ethernet cable" type connections from the boards with the sensor, one by one while in sensor test. The shooter lane board and keyboard board are both easy, but for the upper playfield board you're going to have to follow the cables down and unplug them at the PFD board - just unplug both since it will be impossible to tell in place which one goes to the sensors. Unplug one, wait a moment, check screen, then on to the next. Do the remaining sensors come alive on the test screen at some point, i.e. is a bad board somehow stomping on all the sensors? If you unplug them all with no change, try plugging them back in one by one slowly in a different order, in case it was the last one you unplugged that was bad.