Quoted from fooflighter:

[quoted image]Hey all, been getting a lot of PM requests on PETG washers...the how many, where, why etc questions.
To make it easier on me, thought I'd type up a little memo summary for reference. I'll add more to this if new updates happen or change.
Issue: Playfield pooling, chipping, art tearing
Cause: Clearcoat, loose posts, overtorqued posts, bent washers, metal washers, no washers, too small washers
Fix: Debateable but for me, the best solution is PETG. The runner up is Cliffy carbon. The only reason the Cliffy is ranked 2nd is that it is adhesive (most likely permanent, possibly tearing up art if removed, covers up existing surrounding art near damage, requires a metal washer on top of it for true protection. Whereas the clear PETG provides enough rigidness to stand alone, can see underlying art clearly, can be easily removed, can be easily cut and fabricated to fit.
Results: My results and pics have all held up 1000+ plays post fixing. I am not guaranteeing this for everyone as all the playfields seem to vary, but from others feedback, this seems to be the best method currently. I am providing this for those who wish to continue to play their game while preserving what is there without further damage and repairing what may already be. This isn't to debate pooling or why or why not we should have to fix our $$$ machines.
Parts Needed:
20 - 25 clear 3/4 inch PETG washers. They can be obtained from many sources but my goto has been Pinball Life https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html
You can also find colored ones from Titan pinball https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=134&search=washerand use them in special areas...The upper playfield for example, I used a blue 3/4 inch for example.. See pic below
[quoted image]
5 clear 7/8 inch PETG washers. Used sparingly on some areas to cover more art area or to fit flush against other machine washers, rails or posts to give extra rigidity.
Tools Needed:
Long skinny hex drivers (sold at most big box hardware stores in kits)
Long skinny phillips head driver to reach areas under ramps
Small wrenches to get into tight areas
Telescoping magnet tool for parts retrieval https://www.pinballlife.com/telescoping-magnet-tool.html
Vinyl Iron kit amazon.com link »
The Process and fix:
(***Disclaimer - any modifications done are solely at the discretion of the owner and I do not take responsibility for over ironing, or further damage to your playfield employing the methods below)
1. Unfortunately, there isn't a hard fast rule for preventing or stopping the pooling and chipping if left untouched. I'm just relaying my best possible solution fix that has held up for over 1000+ plays now after my applied fixes and still going strong with no spreading wear or new areas of pooling around new washers.
2. You can take a complete "protect it all" method straight out of the box or just protect the easier to tackle posts and employ a monitor fix methodology. I started seeing pooling at around 25 plays and started employing my techniques until around 250 plays. From that point I had no further damage and employed 29 new washers (and or larger metal replacements). Yes, you read that correctly 29. But, most are hidden from view and the clear PETG is the other advantage. You can cover large areas and multiple washers and it doesn't fill your playfield with unsightly washers. Here is a sample (some - not all of some of the problem areas I have had). https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP4pdonoGuVuEIqsBgtvZatV44oSnM2201uhGO_RYpcWJqY59vya8bPQ5-JNP0WDw?key=TkVjVngyMWhISTJZN05Mb1huLUloNjZiZ0tzV2dR
3. Technique:
a. Examine. What do you need to fix? Take a close look and document it all. Tackle the posts you can get to, save other areas for small projects. For example, you can combine removing the upper playfield to
Install cliffy scoop protectors
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/150#post-6197148 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/171#post-6243689, and while you're at it, install all the PETG you can.
b. Document and record. Take pictures. Label if necessary. When disassembling ramp areas or a new part, I lay the parts out in a line as I remove them so that I can work backwards and forwards for various stages of assembly and clearly see what screws and washers go where and when. It's a simple technique but very helpful once you have a bunch of various screws and washers of different shapes and sizes.
c. Trial fit. Lay out your fixes first. Determine what you need. A couple clear washers? A clear and a metal? A larger metal? What fits what and where? I try to always but up a washer against another surface if I can to give the washer support. See the pic below as an example. Notice the post on the left ...here is where I used a 7/8 washer that sits against the inlane guiderail spacer. More support, less risk of movement and stress.
[quoted image]
d. Apply Iron fix technique. Yelobird and Buffalo pinball provided great step by steps and videos for this process.
Yelobird method
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands
Buffalo Pinball video

I allow my areas to cool to the touch after about 30 minutes and then apply the washers. I don't wait extended periods of time...maybe an hour max before reapplying the washers and this hasn't resulted in any mushy clear or repooling.
Some areas, I could not fit a 3/4 inch PETG so I upgraded those areas to a larger metal washer or cut a sliver off the PETG (they cut very well with scissors and do not fracture or crack..I also used a file on some to notch an area, the inlane washer near the AMP GNR lanes for example.
I also fabricated some of the clear PETG (cut slits, or cut portions of) to fit next to other metal posts or rails.
[quoted image]
e. Hand assemble posts back in position. Do not over tighten!!!! Can't stress this enough The PETG allows minor flexing and you should be able to get a very snug tight rigid fit of your post without "cranking down the post". The washer then provides very little contact with the playfield and doesn't dig in like the smaller metal washers do. See the pic below, the black circle around the post shows you the point of direct contact the washer makes with the playfield.
[quoted image]
f. Reassemble. Work slowly and backwards using the parts in reverse order that you have lined up, following your documentation and pics if necessary. Use the right tool for the right job. Don't force something if it's not correct. Use proper hex drivers and screw drivers for specific areas. The last thing you want is a stripped thread, or screw or nut that no longer functions or makes the issue worse. Worse yet, damaging areas or the playfield or assemblies trying to force something.
f. Inspect your work after every 10 plays. Keep an eye on areas you fixed and always look out for new areas and apply the fixes accordingly and soon.
g. You will eventually arrive at a custom stopping point for your machine that will result in no further damage or pooling and you can finally start to enjoy the machine again. Take your time and have "Patience" - yes pun intended.
Please let me know if this helped you and if there is anything you'd like me to add or change.
Thanks a bunch and happy flipping!

Quoted from frobozz:

If the sensors are also not working (as your picture showed), definitely something wrong with that board or associated stuff. Did the USB cable fall out there or up in the head? Does the LED on the board blink? Fast or slow? When you turn the game on, do all the LEDs come on in their test mode?

Quoted from daveyvandy:

Holy crap! Thank you for all the effort you put into this post!!

Quoted from fooflighter:

[quoted image]Hey all, been getting a lot of PM requests on PETG washers...the how many, where, why etc questions.
To make it easier on me, thought I'd type up a little memo summary for reference. I'll add more to this if new updates happen or change.
Issue: Playfield pooling, chipping, art tearing
Cause: Clearcoat, loose posts, overtorqued posts, bent washers, metal washers, no washers, too small washers
Fix: Debateable but for me, the best solution is PETG. The runner up is Cliffy carbon. The only reason the Cliffy is ranked 2nd is that it is adhesive (most likely permanent, possibly tearing up art if removed, covers up existing surrounding art near damage, requires a metal washer on top of it for true protection. Whereas the clear PETG provides enough rigidness to stand alone, can see underlying art clearly, can be easily removed, can be easily cut and fabricated to fit.
Results: My results and pics have all held up 1000+ plays post fixing. I am not guaranteeing this for everyone as all the playfields seem to vary, but from others feedback, this seems to be the best method currently. I am providing this for those who wish to continue to play their game while preserving what is there without further damage and repairing what may already be. This isn't to debate pooling or why or why not we should have to fix our $$$ machines.
Parts Needed:
20 - 25 clear 3/4 inch PETG washers. They can be obtained from many sources but my goto has been Pinball Life https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html
You can also find colored ones from Titan pinball https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=134&search=washerand use them in special areas...The upper playfield for example, I used a blue 3/4 inch for example.. See pic below
[quoted image]
5 clear 7/8 inch PETG washers. Used sparingly on some areas to cover more art area or to fit flush against other machine washers, rails or posts to give extra rigidity.
Set of various metal washers. Should be standard in any pinball repair arsenal but here's a link if you don't have any:
amazon.com link »
[quoted image]
Tools Needed:
Long skinny hex drivers (sold at most big box hardware stores in kits)
Long skinny phillips head driver to reach areas under ramps
Small wrenches to get into tight areas
Telescoping magnet tool for parts retrieval https://www.pinballlife.com/telescoping-magnet-tool.html
Vinyl Iron kit amazon.com link »
The Process and fix:
(***Disclaimer - any modifications done are solely at the discretion of the owner and I do not take responsibility for over ironing, or further damage to your playfield employing the methods below)
1. Unfortunately, there isn't a hard fast rule for preventing or stopping the pooling and chipping if left untouched. I'm just relaying my best possible solution fix that has held up for over 1000+ plays now after my applied fixes and still going strong with no spreading wear or new areas of pooling around new washers.
2. You can take a complete "protect it all" method straight out of the box or just protect the easier to tackle posts and employ a monitor fix methodology. I started seeing pooling at around 25 plays and started employing my techniques until around 250 plays. From that point I had no further damage and employed 29 new washers (and or larger metal replacements). Yes, you read that correctly 29. But, most are hidden from view and the clear PETG is the other advantage. You can cover large areas and multiple washers and it doesn't fill your playfield with unsightly washers. Here is a sample (some - not all of some of the problem areas I have had). https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP4pdonoGuVuEIqsBgtvZatV44oSnM2201uhGO_RYpcWJqY59vya8bPQ5-JNP0WDw?key=TkVjVngyMWhISTJZN05Mb1huLUloNjZiZ0tzV2dR
3. Technique:
a. Examine. What do you need to fix? Take a close look and document it all. Tackle the posts you can get to, save other areas for small projects. For example, you can combine removing the upper playfield to
Install cliffy scoop protectors
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/150#post-6197148 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/171#post-6243689, and while you're at it, install all the PETG you can.
b. Document and record. Take pictures. Label if necessary. When disassembling ramp areas or a new part, I lay the parts out in a line as I remove them so that I can work backwards and forwards for various stages of assembly and clearly see what screws and washers go where and when. It's a simple technique but very helpful once you have a bunch of various screws and washers of different shapes and sizes.
c. Trial fit. Lay out your fixes first. Determine what you need. A couple clear washers? A clear and a metal? A larger metal? What fits what and where? I try to always butt up a washer against another surface if I can to give the washer support. See the pic below as an example. Notice the post on the left ...here is where I used a 7/8 washer that sits against the inlane guiderail spacer. More support, less risk of movement and stress.
[quoted image]
d. Apply Iron fix technique. Yelobird and Buffalo pinball provided great step by steps and videos for this process.
Yelobird method
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands
Buffalo Pinball video

I allow my areas to cool to the touch after about 30 minutes and then apply the washers. I don't wait extended periods of time...maybe an hour max before reapplying the washers and this hasn't resulted in any mushy clear or repooling.
Some areas, I could not fit a 3/4 inch PETG so I upgraded those areas to a larger metal washer or cut a sliver off the PETG (they cut very well with scissors and do not fracture or crack..I also used a file on some to notch an area, the inlane washer near the AMP GNR lanes for example.
I also fabricated some of the clear PETG (cut slits, or cut portions of) to fit next to other metal posts or rails.
[quoted image]
e. Hand assemble posts back in position. I use hand tools and the 2 finger and a thumb tightening rule, that way it's snug yet not cranked down. Remember, the longer the tool, the more torque applied with the same force. Do not over tighten!!!! Can't stress this enough The PETG allows minor flexing and you should be able to get a very snug tight rigid fit of your post without "cranking down the post". The washer then provides very little contact with the playfield and doesn't dig in like the smaller metal washers do. See the pic below, the black circle around the post shows you the point of direct contact the washer makes with the playfield.
[quoted image]
f. Reassemble. Work slowly and backwards using the parts in reverse order that you have lined up, following your documentation and pics if necessary. Use the right tool for the right job. Don't force something if it's not correct. Use proper hex drivers and screw drivers for specific areas. The last thing you want is a stripped thread, or screw or nut that no longer functions or makes the issue worse. Worse yet, damaging areas or the playfield or assemblies trying to force something.
g. Protect while working. Use thick microfiber towels to protect the playfield from falling parts, and also to brace parts away from each other. Disassembling a ramp for example or partially removing the upper playfield. The towel can cushion and support the piece temporarily without scuffing or damaging other parts of the game.
h. Inspect your work after every 10 plays. Keep an eye on areas you fixed and always look out for new areas and apply the fixes accordingly and soon.
i. You will eventually arrive at a custom stopping point for your machine that will result in no further damage or pooling and you can finally start to enjoy the machine again. Take your time and have "Patience" - yes pun intended.
Please let me know if this helped you and if there is anything you'd like me to add or change.
At the end of the day, remember, it's about playing the game, not inspecting every square inch with a microscope. Hopefully these fixes will allow your anger to fade over time and bring back the true enjoyment this game can give. This is my view from a player's perspective. Washer's and all!
Thanks a bunch and happy flipping!
[quoted image]

Quoted from rockrand:

This is what is did better then nothing,nylon sleeve reduced to a snug fit
[quoted image]

Quoted from fooflighter:

[quoted image]Hey all, been getting a lot of PM requests on PETG washers...the how many, where, why etc questions.
To make it easier on me, thought I'd type up a little memo summary for reference. I'll add more to this if new updates happen or change.
Issue: Playfield pooling, chipping, art tearing
Cause: Clearcoat, loose posts, overtorqued posts, bent washers, metal washers, no washers, too small washers
Fix: Debateable but for me, the best solution is PETG. The runner up is Cliffy carbon. The only reason the Cliffy is ranked 2nd is that it is adhesive (most likely permanent, possibly tearing up art if removed, covers up existing surrounding art near damage, requires a metal washer on top of it for true protection. Whereas the clear PETG provides enough rigidness to stand alone, can see underlying art clearly, can be easily removed, can be easily cut and fabricated to fit.
Results: My results and pics have all held up 1000+ plays post fixing. I am not guaranteeing this for everyone as all the playfields seem to vary, but from others feedback, this seems to be the best method currently. I am providing this for those who wish to continue to play their game while preserving what is there without further damage and repairing what may already be. This isn't to debate pooling or why or why not we should have to fix our $$$ machines.
Parts Needed:
20 - 25 clear 3/4 inch PETG washers. They can be obtained from many sources but my goto has been Pinball Life https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html
You can also find colored ones from Titan pinball https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=134&search=washerand use them in special areas...The upper playfield for example, I used a blue 3/4 inch for example.. See pic below
[quoted image]
5 clear 7/8 inch PETG washers. Used sparingly on some areas to cover more art area or to fit flush against other machine washers, rails or posts to give extra rigidity.
Set of various metal washers. Should be standard in any pinball repair arsenal but here's a link if you don't have any:
amazon.com link »
[quoted image]
Tools Needed:
Long skinny hex drivers (sold at most big box hardware stores in kits)
Long skinny phillips head driver to reach areas under ramps
Small wrenches to get into tight areas
Telescoping magnet tool for parts retrieval https://www.pinballlife.com/telescoping-magnet-tool.html
Vinyl Iron kit amazon.com link »
The Process and fix:
(***Disclaimer - any modifications done are solely at the discretion of the owner and I do not take responsibility for over ironing, or further damage to your playfield employing the methods below)
1. Unfortunately, there isn't a hard fast rule for preventing or stopping the pooling and chipping if left untouched. I'm just relaying my best possible solution fix that has held up for over 1000+ plays now after my applied fixes and still going strong with no spreading wear or new areas of pooling around new washers.
2. You can take a complete "protect it all" method straight out of the box or just protect the easier to tackle posts and employ a monitor fix methodology. I started seeing pooling at around 25 plays and started employing my techniques until around 250 plays. From that point I had no further damage and employed 29 new washers (and or larger metal replacements). Yes, you read that correctly 29. But, most are hidden from view and the clear PETG is the other advantage. You can cover large areas and multiple washers and it doesn't fill your playfield with unsightly washers. Here is a sample (some - not all of some of the problem areas I have had). https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP4pdonoGuVuEIqsBgtvZatV44oSnM2201uhGO_RYpcWJqY59vya8bPQ5-JNP0WDw?key=TkVjVngyMWhISTJZN05Mb1huLUloNjZiZ0tzV2dR
3. Technique:
a. Examine. What do you need to fix? Take a close look and document it all. Tackle the posts you can get to, save other areas for small projects. For example, you can combine removing the upper playfield to
Install cliffy scoop protectors
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/150#post-6197148 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/171#post-6243689, and while you're at it, install all the PETG you can.
b. Document and record. Take pictures. Label if necessary. When disassembling ramp areas or a new part, I lay the parts out in a line as I remove them so that I can work backwards and forwards for various stages of assembly and clearly see what screws and washers go where and when. It's a simple technique but very helpful once you have a bunch of various screws and washers of different shapes and sizes.
c. Trial fit. Lay out your fixes first. Determine what you need. A couple clear washers? A clear and a metal? A larger metal? What fits what and where? I try to always butt up a washer against another surface if I can to give the washer support. See the pic below as an example. Notice the post on the left ...here is where I used a 7/8 washer that sits against the inlane guiderail spacer. More support, less risk of movement and stress.
[quoted image]
d. Apply Iron fix technique. Yelobird and Buffalo pinball provided great step by steps and videos for this process.
Yelobird method
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands
Buffalo Pinball video

I allow my areas to cool to the touch after about 30 minutes and then apply the washers. I don't wait extended periods of time...maybe an hour max before reapplying the washers and this hasn't resulted in any mushy clear or repooling.
Some areas, I could not fit a 3/4 inch PETG so I upgraded those areas to a larger metal washer or cut a sliver off the PETG (they cut very well with scissors and do not fracture or crack..I also used a file on some to notch an area, the inlane washer near the AMP GNR lanes for example.
I also fabricated some of the clear PETG (cut slits, or cut portions of) to fit next to other metal posts or rails.
[quoted image]
e. Hand assemble posts back in position. I use hand tools and the 2 finger and a thumb tightening rule, that way it's snug yet not cranked down. Remember, the longer the tool, the more torque applied with the same force. Do not over tighten!!!! Can't stress this enough The PETG allows minor flexing and you should be able to get a very snug tight rigid fit of your post without "cranking down the post". The washer then provides very little contact with the playfield and doesn't dig in like the smaller metal washers do. See the pic below, the black circle around the post shows you the point of direct contact the washer makes with the playfield.
[quoted image]
f. Test fit your ball clearances. Most posts including the ones unprotected by a bumper will allow full clearance of the ball to the playfield without interference. But you always want to check to make sure.
[quoted image]
g. Reassemble. Work slowly and backwards using the parts in reverse order that you have lined up, following your documentation and pics if necessary. Use the right tool for the right job. Don't force something if it's not correct. Use proper hex drivers and screw drivers for specific areas. The last thing you want is a stripped thread, or screw or nut that no longer functions or makes the issue worse. Worse yet, damaging areas or the playfield or assemblies trying to force something.
h. Protect while working. Use thick microfiber towels to protect the playfield from falling parts, and also to brace parts away from each other. Disassembling a ramp for example or partially removing the upper playfield. The towel can cushion and support the piece temporarily without scuffing or damaging other parts of the game.
Use a thick card (business card) or at least a sheet of paper under metal ramp flaps to protect playfield if you are moving the ramp without disassembling from playfield entirely. This will prevent wear and scratching while working
i. Inspect your work after every 10 plays. Keep an eye on areas you fixed and always look out for new areas and apply the fixes accordingly and soon.
j. You will eventually arrive at a custom stopping point for your machine that will result in no further damage or pooling and you can finally start to enjoy the machine again. Take your time and have "Patience" - yes pun intended.
Please let me know if this helped you and if there is anything you'd like me to add or change.
At the end of the day, remember, it's about playing the game, not inspecting every square inch with a microscope. Hopefully these fixes will allow your anger to fade over time and bring back the true enjoyment this game can give. This is my view from a player's perspective. Washer's and all!
Thanks a bunch and happy flipping!
[quoted image]

Quoted from fooflighter:

[quoted image]Hey all, been getting a lot of PM requests on PETG washers...the how many, where, why etc questions.
To make it easier on me, thought I'd type up a little memo summary for reference. I'll add more to this if new updates happen or change.
Issue: Playfield pooling, chipping, art tearing
Cause: Clearcoat, loose posts, overtorqued posts, bent washers, metal washers, no washers, too small washers
Fix: Debateable but for me, the best solution is PETG. The runner up is Cliffy carbon. The only reason the Cliffy is ranked 2nd is that it is adhesive (most likely permanent, possibly tearing up art if removed, covers up existing surrounding art near damage, requires a metal washer on top of it for true protection. Whereas the clear PETG provides enough rigidness to stand alone, can see underlying art clearly, can be easily removed, can be easily cut and fabricated to fit.
Results: My results and pics have all held up 1000+ plays post fixing. I am not guaranteeing this for everyone as all the playfields seem to vary, but from others feedback, this seems to be the best method currently. I am providing this for those who wish to continue to play their game while preserving what is there without further damage and repairing what may already be. This isn't to debate pooling or why or why not we should have to fix our $$$ machines.
Parts Needed:
20 - 25 clear 3/4 inch PETG washers. They can be obtained from many sources but my goto has been Pinball Life https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html
You can also find colored ones from Titan pinball https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=134&search=washerand use them in special areas...The upper playfield for example, I used a blue 3/4 inch for example.. See pic below
[quoted image]
5 clear 7/8 inch PETG washers. Used sparingly on some areas to cover more art area or to fit flush against other machine washers, rails or posts to give extra rigidity.
Set of various metal washers. Should be standard in any pinball repair arsenal but here's a link if you don't have any:
amazon.com link »
[quoted image]
Tools Needed:
Long skinny hex drivers (sold at most big box hardware stores in kits)
Long skinny phillips head driver to reach areas under ramps
Small wrenches to get into tight areas
Telescoping magnet tool for parts retrieval https://www.pinballlife.com/telescoping-magnet-tool.html
Vinyl Iron kit amazon.com link »
The Process and fix:
(***Disclaimer - any modifications done are solely at the discretion of the owner and I do not take responsibility for over ironing, or further damage to your playfield employing the methods below)
1. Unfortunately, there isn't a hard fast rule for preventing or stopping the pooling and chipping if left untouched. I'm just relaying my best possible solution fix that has held up for over 1000+ plays now after my applied fixes and still going strong with no spreading wear or new areas of pooling around new washers.
2. You can take a complete "protect it all" method straight out of the box or just protect the easier to tackle posts and employ a monitor fix methodology. I started seeing pooling at around 25 plays and started employing my techniques until around 250 plays. From that point I had no further damage and employed 29 new washers (and or larger metal replacements). Yes, you read that correctly 29. But, most are hidden from view and the clear PETG is the other advantage. You can cover large areas and multiple washers and it doesn't fill your playfield with unsightly washers. Here is a sample (some - not all of some of the problem areas I have had). https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP4pdonoGuVuEIqsBgtvZatV44oSnM2201uhGO_RYpcWJqY59vya8bPQ5-JNP0WDw?key=TkVjVngyMWhISTJZN05Mb1huLUloNjZiZ0tzV2dR
3. Technique:
a. Examine. What do you need to fix? Take a close look and document it all. Tackle the posts you can get to, save other areas for small projects. For example, you can combine removing the upper playfield to
Install cliffy scoop protectors
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/150#post-6197148 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/171#post-6243689, and while you're at it, install all the PETG you can.
b. Document and record. Take pictures. Label if necessary. When disassembling ramp areas or a new part, I lay the parts out in a line as I remove them so that I can work backwards and forwards for various stages of assembly and clearly see what screws and washers go where and when. It's a simple technique but very helpful once you have a bunch of various screws and washers of different shapes and sizes.
c. Trial fit. Lay out your fixes first. Determine what you need. A couple clear washers? A clear and a metal? A larger metal? What fits what and where? I try to always butt up a washer against another surface if I can to give the washer support. See the pic below as an example. Notice the post on the left ...here is where I used a 7/8 washer that sits against the inlane guiderail spacer. More support, less risk of movement and stress.
[quoted image]
d. Apply Iron fix technique. Yelobird and Buffalo pinball provided great step by steps and videos for this process.
Yelobird method
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-playfield-post-repair-and-chip-proofing-how-to-all-brands
Buffalo Pinball video

I allow my areas to cool to the touch after about 30 minutes and then apply the washers. I don't wait extended periods of time...maybe an hour max before reapplying the washers and this hasn't resulted in any mushy clear or repooling.
Some areas, I could not fit a 3/4 inch PETG so I upgraded those areas to a larger metal washer or cut a sliver off the PETG (they cut very well with scissors and do not fracture or crack..I also used a file on some to notch an area, the inlane washer near the AMP GNR lanes for example.
I also fabricated some of the clear PETG (cut slits, or cut portions of) to fit next to other metal posts or rails.
[quoted image]
e. Hand assemble posts back in position. I use hand tools and the 2 finger and a thumb tightening rule, that way it's snug yet not cranked down. Remember, the longer the tool, the more torque applied with the same force. Do not over tighten!!!! Can't stress this enough The PETG allows minor flexing and you should be able to get a very snug tight rigid fit of your post without "cranking down the post". The washer then provides very little contact with the playfield and doesn't dig in like the smaller metal washers do. See the pic below, the black circle around the post shows you the point of direct contact the washer makes with the playfield.
[quoted image]
f. Test fit your ball clearances. Most posts including the ones unprotected by a bumper will allow full clearance of the ball to the playfield without interference. But you always want to check to make sure.
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g. Reassemble. Work slowly and backwards using the parts in reverse order that you have lined up, following your documentation and pics if necessary. Use the right tool for the right job. Don't force something if it's not correct. Use proper hex drivers and screw drivers for specific areas. The last thing you want is a stripped thread, or screw or nut that no longer functions or makes the issue worse. Worse yet, damaging areas or the playfield or assemblies trying to force something.
h. Protect while working. Use thick microfiber towels to protect the playfield from falling parts, and also to brace parts away from each other. Disassembling a ramp for example or partially removing the upper playfield. The towel can cushion and support the piece temporarily without scuffing or damaging other parts of the game.
Use a thick card (business card) or at least a sheet of paper under metal ramp flaps to protect playfield if you are moving the ramp without disassembling from playfield entirely. This will prevent wear and scratching while working
i. Inspect your work after every 10 plays. Keep an eye on areas you fixed and always look out for new areas and apply the fixes accordingly and soon.
j. You will eventually arrive at a custom stopping point for your machine that will result in no further damage or pooling and you can finally start to enjoy the machine again. Take your time and have "Patience" - yes pun intended.
Please let me know if this helped you and if there is anything you'd like me to add or change.
At the end of the day, remember, it's about playing the game, not inspecting every square inch with a microscope. Hopefully these fixes will allow your anger to fade over time and bring back the true enjoyment this game can give. This is my view from a player's perspective. Washer's and all!
Thanks a bunch and happy flipping!
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Quoted from dug:

Wow.. Awesome documentation.
Mods please Key this post.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Check. It was already done.

Quoted from MightyGrave:

Sounds pretty Need
What kind of Post you used? Can you give us a Link?

Quoted from sevenrites:

Finally got the call today, 10/9 order direct with JJP, ETA around Friday or Monday for my GNR LE!!!

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Curious to see if JJP are changing/fixing anything on the new machines going out to address the post/PF issues

Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

My game has damage The "fix" just pushes the damage out further faster. Wish I would have just taken them off. I have pooling and some art splitting a little on my backstage. I would fix it before you play it. I have cliffy carbon fibers and some clear petg from pinballlife on order and plan to do what I can and have Sugartown pinball tech wizard out to do the rest. Stopped playing my game. Contacted support, they offered to send.... more washers. Also irritated that there was zero apology, empathy, even a feeling of them giving a shit.
Where is it that people are tracking the game numbers and damage? I want to add mine to it.

Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

My game has damage The "fix" just pushes the damage out further faster. Wish I would have just taken them off. I have pooling and some art splitting a little on my backstage. I would fix it before you play it. I have cliffy carbon fibers and some clear petg from pinballlife on order and plan to do what I can and have Sugartown pinball tech wizard out to do the rest. Stopped playing my game. Contacted support, they offered to send.... more washers. Also irritated that there was zero apology, empathy, even a feeling of them giving a shit.
Where is it that people are tracking the game numbers and damage? I want to add mine to it.

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

What is your Playfield build date?

Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Game was built in April. Looked under the playfield and I don't see a date on the playfield itself. Where do I find it?

Quoted from sevenrites:

Finally got the call today, 10/9 order direct with JJP, ETA around Friday or Monday for my GNR LE!!!

Quoted from pinballj:

Very exciting! I haven't got the call yet but I am a mid Oct order through FlipNOut

Quoted from Pinchild:

You're in very good hands vendor.
Don't let the playfield talk scare you it's a intense pinball machine.
It'll become your #1 favorite

Quoted from sevenrites:

Finally got the call today, 10/9 order direct with JJP, ETA around Friday or Monday for my GNR LE!!!

Quoted from PeterG:

Did almost similar, but also took a longer post. So it extend more under the playfield. Even going to add another nut on there. Now it can't move anymore. Ordered longer posts for the rest too.

Quoted from PappyBoyington:

Crazy but this is exactly how my game is from the factory. Longer post thru the t-nut with a nylon nut on the bottom side. May build.

Quoted from PeterG:

So they are learning.

Quoted from Vespula:

I'm open to the possibility that they grabbed the wrong part... But this opens up a whole another can of worms in terms of loose processes, no controls preventing this to even happen, plus the QA not catching it... But I hope you're right.
I would need to hear from other may build owners to accept it was a conscious change more than an anomaly. I still like the ideas using the bushing/sleeve around the post in the over sized hole

Quoted from smalltownguy2:

any of you who are sharing your fixes for things and those fixes get used on the production line, you are essentially "working" for JJP without getting paid. They are basically using Pinside as a crowd-sourced supply of brains and info on the cheap.
That's nice.

Quoted from smalltownguy2:

This pretty much confirms it - JJP is just silently implementing mitigation measures to minimize the damage to the crap Mirco fields. Whether or not they're using the info they read here on Pinside (oh, you KNOW they're reading Pinside all the time, right?) or they are figuring this stuff out on their own, I guess we'll never know. Because they haven't said a peep about anything.
But know this: any of you who are sharing your fixes for things and those fixes get used on the production line, you are essentially "working" for JJP without getting paid. They are basically using Pinside as a crowd-sourced supply of brains and info on the cheap.
That's nice.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

Honestly, what do you want JJP to do or say? It seems like they are working their hardest to get this resolved. Did stern put out a release or any notice about their playfields chipping, ghosting, bow’d, etc…? The only company that I know that came out publicly about it was Spooky.
If JJP did nothing, I’d be pissed. But they are obviously not based on new games. I got a package from JJP the other day (requested by me to my distributor), I haven’t opened it yet - weekend project. But I suspect it’s their washer kit + my replacement spotlight. I think the service guys at JJP, Barry and Steve, have been doing excellent work through all these hiccups and road bumps.
I was so angry when my post chipped, mainly cause I was sucked in by all the non owner haters with pitch forks around here. But know what happened a couple weeks of not playing GNR and when the smoke settled in my mind? I took 10 minutes out of my day to repair the post, played it, and realized I own one of the best games ever made. Now get on that code Keefer!

Quoted from smalltownguy2:

This pretty much confirms it - JJP is just silently implementing mitigation measures to minimize the damage to the crap Mirco fields. Whether or not they're using the info they read here on Pinside (oh, you KNOW they're reading Pinside all the time, right?) or they are figuring this stuff out on their own, I guess we'll never know. Because they haven't said a peep about anything.
But know this: any of you who are sharing your fixes for things and those fixes get used on the production line, you are essentially "working" for JJP without getting paid. They are basically using Pinside as a crowd-sourced supply of brains and info on the cheap.
That's nice.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

Honestly, what do you want JJP to do or say? It seems like they are working their hardest to get this resolved.

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

[quoted image]

Quoted from smalltownguy2:

This pretty much confirms it - JJP is just silently implementing mitigation measures to minimize the damage to the crap Mirco fields. Whether or not they're using the info they read here on Pinside (oh, you KNOW they're reading Pinside all the time, right?) or they are figuring this stuff out on their own, I guess we'll never know. Because they haven't said a peep about anything.
But know this: any of you who are sharing your fixes for things and those fixes get used on the production line, you are essentially "working" for JJP without getting paid. They are basically using Pinside as a crowd-sourced supply of brains and info on the cheap.
That's nice.

Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:

Really? Are they 'working their hardest to get this resolved'. From what I hear they had this problem in the past. That does not lead me to believe your statement.
Do you have a playfield issue and did they solve it? I have a unit that they claimed had a fix, that fix made the pooling further out from the post. Now the new fix it plastic washers under the first fix.
What do I expect them to do? I expect them to ship me a new playfield.
Regardless of their absolutely ridiculous warranty that doesn't warranty anything there is a Consumer Rights Act. It says that any products you buy must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose as described. They are in breach of this Act. A pinball machines playfield is the most important part of the game. If you bought a car and the hoods paint started chipping off you would not let them mail you a sticker to cover it, would you? That is exactly what they are doing here.
They are also not at all friendly or apologetic. I wrote what I felt was a pretty damn friendly email, got nothing of that in return.

Quoted from simpswho:

Yes I had a chevy truck peeled paint and the paid dealer to repaint it!!!!!!

Quoted from jclausing:

Here's a comment actually about the game lol!!
Got to "Do you want to play a game" for the first time today. Won't spoil anything that happens but about had a heart attack when it first started. This game has so many fun things to discover and is an absolute blast to play.

Quoted from thechakapakuni:

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Quoted from NightTrain:

Would this be the correct longer post you guys are ordering? How many would a guy need?
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base-15430.html
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Quoted from pinballjah:

For those looking for side blades for their SE or LE, you can order the CE version directly from JJP or through your distributor. I saw some on a friend's CE and had to have a set. They look amazing! My set has arrived in Canada so will post some pictures when I pick them up. I have not seen them advertised on the JJP website. Cost is about $30US per side.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

Hey Zaphx is no longer here. Someone’s gotta take the kool-aid and spike it some