(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


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“Which one are you buying”

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#11101 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

WS2812 ledstrips are very common, and very cheap on Aliexpress if you're patient (delivery can take some time).
Here are the ones I regularly use for my "gizmos":
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/2036819167.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.517a7893sRGbvb&aem_p4p_detail=202106110524345248356825853200001705205
A 5m roll of IP30 60 led/m is 20 dollars. It can be cut anywhere to the correct lentgh, just at the pad (which are spaced every 1.5cm).
To note:
- Each led can consume up to 60mA, so if you have 5m at 60l/m is 300 leds, meaning 9A. Granted, it's full white and full brightness, so in practice it's slightly lower, but this still means you need a dedicated 5V PSU
- You need to reinject power every 150 leds or so, as the current decrease on the power line of the ledstrip. For this application therefore it's one power input for each ledstrip.
- The IP class will determine the "cover" of the ledstrip, IP30 is "raw", IP60 should give you a transparent silicon rubber above the ledstrip, which I recommend as it allows to protect the electronics
- From what I understand of the pinball electronic design, it seems to be just a matter of duplicating the data signal from the pinball ledstrip to the external ledstrip. While not strictly "by the book", it is possible to drive two ledstrips with one signal without any additional electronic (which is what has been done here I assume). If one is very picky on electronic design, you should add a single input dual output buffer. If you intend to drive two additional ledstrips (rear and back), then it's recommended to add the buffer in any case (as this would mean driving three outputs from a single control signal).

Thanks for the info. What's a buffer? (In this context)

#11102 2 years ago

Is it just me or are you guys adjusting your scoop every so often to keep the ball ejecting to the sweet spot on the left flipper?

#11103 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Is it just me or are you guys adjusting your scoop every so often to keep the ball ejecting to the sweet spot on the left flipper?

Never adjusted mine ! Never had a SDTM from the scoop

#11104 2 years ago
Quoted from Leo13:

Never adjusted mine ! Never had a SDTM from the scoop

I tried some blue loctite on the screws but it seems I have to readjust every 50 games or so. Never a SDTM but it definitely ejects the ball towards the end of the left flipper over time. After adjustment it goes to the middle of flipper. Not a big deal but maybe I need to screw it in tighter

#11105 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I tried some blue loctite on the screws but it seems I have to readjust every 50 games or so. Never a SDTM but it definitely ejects the ball towards the end of the left flipper over time. After adjustment it goes to the middle of flipper. Not a big deal but maybe I need to screw it in tighter

Did you try just bumping that VUK coil up one number higher in the settings? Likely as the game heats up it gets a bit weak. Just a thought.

#11106 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

WS2812 ledstrips are very common, and very cheap on Aliexpress if you're patient (delivery can take some time).
Here are the ones I regularly use for my "gizmos":
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/2036819167.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.517a7893sRGbvb&aem_p4p_detail=202106110524345248356825853200001705205
A 5m roll of IP30 60 led/m is 20 dollars. It can be cut anywhere to the correct lentgh, just at the pad (which are spaced every 1.5cm).
To note:
- Each led can consume up to 60mA, so if you have 5m at 60l/m is 300 leds, meaning 9A. Granted, it's full white and full brightness, so in practice it's slightly lower, but this still means you need a dedicated 5V PSU
- You need to reinject power every 150 leds or so, as the current decrease on the power line of the ledstrip. For this application therefore it's one power input for each ledstrip.
- The IP class will determine the "cover" of the ledstrip, IP30 is "raw", IP60 should give you a transparent silicon rubber above the ledstrip, which I recommend as it allows to protect the electronics
- From what I understand of the pinball electronic design, it seems to be just a matter of duplicating the data signal from the pinball ledstrip to the external ledstrip. While not strictly "by the book", it is possible to drive two ledstrips with one signal without any additional electronic (which is what has been done here I assume). If one is very picky on electronic design, you should add a single input dual output buffer. If you intend to drive two additional ledstrips (rear and back), then it's recommended to add the buffer in any case (as this would mean driving three outputs from a single control signal).

Hi
Will adding additional strips of LEDs to the stock hot rails slow down the current display rate of hot rails due to the additional data load? I.e. more data = more load so lighting sequences slower?

#11107 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Did you try just bumping that VUK coil up one number higher in the settings? Likely as the game heats up it gets a bit weak. Just a thought.

Thanks I’ll give that a try

#11108 2 years ago

I have all my leg levelers screwed all the way in per the jjp recommendation. What pitch are you guys all at, or did you stick with factory recommendations of levelers all the way in?

#11109 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I have all my leg levelers screwed all the way in per the jjp recommendation. What pitch are you guys all at, or did you stick with factory recommendations of levelers all the way in?

6.8 degrees between the flippers is working best for me. I’ve tried both 6.5 and 7.0

#11110 2 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

I have all my leg levelers screwed all the way in per the jjp recommendation. What pitch are you guys all at, or did you stick with factory recommendations of levelers all the way in?

Not sure what pitch I’m at now, but the bubble just above the 2nd line has been great.

#11111 2 years ago
Quoted from brerspidur:

i didnt put together a write up, it was fairly straight forward. If i have some time this weekend, i will take some pics and share. I got all the parts needed on amazon for about 40 bucks.

Please do. Many folks want to add these to their GNR.

Quoted from brerspidur:

I used these leds.
amazon.com link »
I got the waterproof ones because I think the connectors go on easier.
I used these connectors
amazon.com link »
And this power supply
amazon.com link »
Also needed some wire and t wire connectors which I already had.

Do you know the count of LED's on each of the hot rails?

#11112 2 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Do you know the count of LED's on each of the hot rails?

62 on right, 42 on left

#11113 2 years ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

Switch matrix problem , something wrong with row “x”
Go into matrixed switch test and look at all of your switchs

Thanks I’ll check that out when I’m back at the machine, so a switch is getting locked open/closed maybe and it’s causing the game to flip out?

#11114 2 years ago

For those you wanted details on WS2812 ledstrips:

- A buffer is an electronic device that takes an input signal, and propagates it. Useful for various reasons, in this instance it allows to ensure that the data signal should propagate cleanly to all ledstrips. However, a buffer is not really necessary when connecting two data lines to a single output for WS2812 ledstrips (although purists will complain...). There might be a concern with three, as impedance and current draw could cause problems, but your mileage may vary. You can try, and if it does not work add a buffer

- Adding more ledstrips will not affect animation speed. Since they are connected in //, the data signal will propagate identically along each ledstrip, so each will be a mirror of the in game ledstrip

- Number of led on each side does not have to necessarily match what's inside, however if it's longer the additional leds will never light up. If it's shorter of course you then you will be missing leds. That said, based on the number of leds measured above, I would recommend to simply use 60 leds. It's 1m, convenient, as you don't need to cut (ledstrips have a wider gap every 50cm) if you're using 1m ledstrip

- If you duplicate data signal right and left, this means that the undercab ledstrip will glow in different color each. Not sure this is the best effect (but then again, I don't have yet my GnR, so can't assess that), maybe duplicating the right ledstrip only will be more suitable

I would recommend to use IP60 1m 60l/m for each side on the undercab, since that will be the sweet spot, and they will come prewired with connectors on each side. You can then unsolder the output connector (since you don't need to daisy chain) to use it to connect your wiring. IP60 is better than IP30 as it has a silicon transparent cover, which will protect the ledstrip (especially for the undercab and these times where you will want to transport your pinball in a car...)

Some reading material:
https://www.sdiplight.com/what-is-ws2812b-led-and-how-to-use-ws2812b-led/

You don't need the control electronics (arduino in the link above), since it's actually part of the pinball machine, you just need to duplicate the one data signal which is used to light up the in game ledstrip

#11115 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

For those you wanted details on WS2812 ledstrips:
- A buffer is an electronic device that takes an input signal, and propagates it. Useful for various reasons, in this instance it allows to ensure that the data signal should propagate cleanly to all ledstrips. However, a buffer is not really necessary when connecting two data lines to a single output for WS2812 ledstrips (although purists will complain...). There might be a concern with three, as impedance and current draw could cause problems, but your mileage may vary. You can try, and if it does not work add a buffer
- Adding more ledstrips will not affect animation speed. Since they are connected in //, the data signal will propagate identically along each ledstrip, so each will be a mirror of the in game ledstrip
- Number of led on each side does not have to necessarily match what's inside, however if it's longer the additional leds will never light up. If it's shorter of course you then you will be missing leds. That said, based on the number of leds measured above, I would recommend to simply use 60 leds. It's 1m, convenient, as you don't need to cut (ledstrips have a wider gap every 50cm) if you're using 1m ledstrip
- If you duplicate data signal right and left, this means that the undercab ledstrip will glow in different color each. Not sure this is the best effect (but then again, I don't have yet my GnR, so can't assess that), maybe duplicating the right ledstrip only will be more suitable
I would recommend to use IP60 1m 60l/m for each side on the undercab, since that will be the sweet spot, and they will come prewired with connectors on each side. You can then unsolder the output connector (since you don't need to daisy chain) to use it to connect your wiring. IP60 is better than IP30 as it has a silicon transparent cover, which will protect the ledstrip (especially for the undercab and these times where you will want to transport your pinball in a car...)
Some reading material:
https://www.sdiplight.com/what-is-ws2812b-led-and-how-to-use-ws2812b-led/
You don't need the control electronics (arduino in the link above), since it's actually part of the pinball machine, you just need to duplicate the one data signal which is used to light up the in game ledstrip

I completely appreciate this crash course in technology - but let’s be honest, you are talking to a bunch of entitled guys with more money than we know what to do with (hence buying 10000 dollar toys all the time I suppose) this is way to much work to figure out, can you or someone just develop a turn-key kit and overcharge all of us for it so we can easily just put something idiot-proof and fully baked In our machines!?

Thanks!!

#11116 2 years ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

I completely appreciate this crash course in technology - but let’s be honest, you are talking to a bunch of entitled guys with more money than we know what to do with (hence buying 10000 dollar toys all the time I suppose) this is way to much work to figure out, can you or someone just develop a turn-key kit and overcharge all of us for it so we can easily just put something idiot-proof and fully baked In our machines!?
Thanks!!

Either a turnkey kit or step-by-step instructions with illustrations.

#11117 2 years ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

I completely appreciate this crash course in technology - but let’s be honest, you are talking to a bunch of entitled guys with more money than we know what to do with (hence buying 10000 dollar toys all the time I suppose) this is way to much work to figure out, can you or someone just develop a turn-key kit and overcharge all of us for it so we can easily just put something idiot-proof and fully baked In our machines!?
Thanks!!

This.

Seriously though I did try to make sense of the pictures of the wiring that were posted. It was much appreciated. However no offense it was helpful in disqualifying my abilities to do this... As they were all laying on top of each other and the colors were altered because I know that's what wires he had , so the more I looked at how they were all connected the more confused I got and quickly bagged the idea wishing for a kit. I wasn't even sure if those holes on the back corner or with the wire mesh that he ran the wires through or even actually there did he have to drill those. Mainly cuz I don't have my game yet either.

However I will say I am very close to being able to do this with some further hand holding, so if there was an actual wiring diagram showing where everything connects, and where the t connectors went, which t connectors to buy, which awg wiring size to buy, power supply and buffer(optional), And exactly which 2812, (2812b??) To get, then I think I might be in the world of the confident and could attempt it. Maybe a fully assembled kit you just connect probably 3 Ts into the existing wiring at the board and power, attach to the pin, and fire it up. But also then a "roll your own" kit for reduced price for just the parts and a diagram. And of course, could even be a third option for a suggested donation which would be just parts list and a GnR wiring diagram.

If you think about it Pinstadium wants to charge 400 bucks for something It isn't 1/4 as cool as this. I don't know if he has any sales, but a $350 plug and play kit isn't out of reach for these "entitled guys" on here. I mean they're (I just haven't ordered yet so I can't say we) paying $375 for an acrylic skull And it doesn't even light up. Lol

#11118 2 years ago

I’m cranking my spare snubber down with pliers on a piece of wood tonight before I install it .That being said ,if anyone has a pic like this can you please send ..I just want to know if those 2 holes to mount snubber bracket on should be parallel to the back side of the scoop which obviously are not .I had a couple people tell me these are off from where theres are at but no pictures yet .Thanks for the help .Whatever the deal is I’ll be rocking tonight

03EA8BD8-5CE8-4CD5-AC6B-1DBD53E50EBC (resized).jpeg03EA8BD8-5CE8-4CD5-AC6B-1DBD53E50EBC (resized).jpeg
#11119 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

This.

Seriously though I did try to make sense of the pictures of the wiring that were posted. It was much appreciated. However no offense it was helpful in disqualifying my abilities to do this... As they were all laying on top of each other and the colors were altered because I know that's what wires he had , so the more I looked at how they were all connected the more confused I got and quickly bagged the idea wishing for a kit. I wasn't even sure if those holes on the back corner or with the wire mesh that he ran the wires through or even actually there did he have to drill those. Mainly cuz I don't have my game yet either.
However I will say I am very close to being able to do this with some further hand holding, so if there was an actual wiring diagram showing where everything connects, and where the t connectors went, which t connectors to buy, which awg wiring size to buy, power supply and buffer(optional), And exactly which 2812, (2812b??) To get, then I think I might be in the world of the confident and could attempt it. Maybe a fully assembled kit you just connect probably 3 Ts into the existing wiring at the board and power, attach to the pin, and fire it up. But also then a "roll your own" kit for reduced price for just the parts and a diagram. And of course, could even be a third option for a suggested donation which would be just parts list and a GnR wiring diagram.
If you think about it Pinstadium wants to charge 400 bucks for something It isn't 1/4 as cool as this. I don't know if he has any sales, but a $350 plug and play kit isn't out of reach for these "entitled guys" on here. I mean they're (I just haven't ordered yet so I can't say we) paying $375 for an acrylic skull And it doesn't even light up. Lol

Lol, sorry about that. When I write code I just give my variables nondescript names like x and y. I know it makes it hard to follow behind me and is unintentional. I'm just lazy. Ill try to put together a complete diagram to recreate what I posted tomorrow

#11120 2 years ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

I completely appreciate this crash course in technology - but let’s be honest, you are talking to a bunch of entitled guys with more money than we know what to do with (hence buying 10000 dollar toys all the time I suppose) this is way to much work to figure out, can you or someone just develop a turn-key kit and overcharge all of us for it so we can easily just put something idiot-proof and fully baked In our machines!?
Thanks!!

Well I would feel ashamed to charge 400 bucks for something that simple... I mean, there's literally zero engineering involved, it's pure connectivity.

I'm not really in the business of doing mods, as I have a full day job which satisfies me fully. I would be willing to provide DIY instructions with one caveat : I don't have the game yet so I don't know where are the game ledstrip connections and what they look like

If the other pinsider who did it could post picture of the original game connectors and their location, I'm sure both of us should be able to come up with something comprehensive for the electronic noob to follow.

#11121 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Well I would feel ashamed to charge 400 bucks for something that simple... I mean, there's literally zero engineering involved, it's pure connectivity.
I'm not really in the business of doing mods, as I have a full day job which satisfies me fully. I would be willing to provide DIY instructions with one caveat : I don't have the game yet so I don't know where are the game ledstrip connections and what they look like
If the other pinsider who did it could post picture of the original game connectors and their location, I'm sure both of us should be able to come up with something comprehensive for the electronic noob to follow.

That's very generous of you .
As someone with zero knowledge in this area , I would happily pay a couple of hundred bucks for a plug-and-play solution . It's such a cool mod , I'm sure it's just a matter of time before Pin Stadium , Ler mods , the mod couple or someone else comes out with a kit .

#11122 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Well I would feel ashamed to charge 400 bucks for something that simple... I mean, there's literally zero engineering involved, it's pure connectivity.
I'm not really in the business of doing mods, as I have a full day job which satisfies me fully. I would be willing to provide DIY instructions with one caveat : I don't have the game yet so I don't know where are the game ledstrip connections and what they look like
If the other pinsider who did it could post picture of the original game connectors and their location, I'm sure both of us should be able to come up with something comprehensive for the electronic noob to follow.

20210611_130630 (resized).jpg20210611_130630 (resized).jpg
#11123 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

That's very generous of you .
As someone with zero knowledge in this area , I would happily pay a couple of hundred bucks for a plug-and-play solution . It's such a cool mod , I'm sure it's just a matter of time before Pin Stadium , Ler mods , the mod couple or someone else comes out with a kit .

It’s not an easy plug and play situation for a modder to pull together as you have to tap into the data lines, which require soldering, and you’ll need an external power supply. It’s not hard or expensive to do, but you do need some electrical skill. Personally, im not going to do it because as someone else mentioned, the hot rails are not always in sync with each other and you’ll just get a jumbled mess of colors at times. The only thing I’ve done is install sound activated led strips that I plugged into the wall outlet and they seem to work just fine.

#11124 2 years ago

Nah. Just create a small adapter. Unplug connector from board, plug connecter into adapter. Adapter goes to the board on one end, has wires going out for LEDs on the other.

Quoted from Lermods:

you have to tap into the data lines, which require soldering,

#11125 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Well I would feel ashamed to charge 400 bucks for something that simple...

Welcome to the world of pinball and modding. Buy a $5 toy on Amazon, put a light and wire in it and charge $150. You could always make a $50 plastic topper and charge $500, or say it’s limited and pull charge $1k sweet job with your lighting btw.

#11126 2 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Nah. Just create a small adapter. Unplug connector from board, plug connecter into adapter. Adapter goes to the board on one end, has wires going out for LEDs on the other.

You can do it that way too, assuming you can find the connector brand/type they are using.

#11127 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

It’s not an easy plug and play situation for a modder to pull together as you have to tap into the data lines, which require soldering, and you’ll need an external power supply. It’s not hard or expensive to do, but you do need some electrical skill. Personally, im not going to do it because as someone else mentioned, the hot rails are not always in sync with each other and you’ll just get a jumbled mess of colors at times. The only thing I’ve done is install sound activated led strips that I plugged into the wall outlet and they seem to work just fine.

I really like the idea of extra lighting from behind the cabinet , do you have a product for the sound activated LED strips you mentioned .

#11128 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

I really like the idea of extra lighting from behind the cabinet , do you have a product for the sound activated LED strips you mentioned .

We don’t sell it, but you can get them very cheaply on Amazon, like $12. Here’s what I used. I ran the strip down the center of the pin from the top of the back of the cabinet to the bottom of the front of the cabinet and placed the remote sensor/controller on the top of the game (you could also affix it to underneath the cabinet.) I did have to make an extension for the included power supply to reach my outlet, but you could use a regular household extension cord if you wanted to.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q44CZ4L/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_XPAEGQ45YAN9EBHWBNWY

#11129 2 years ago

OK, so it's super straightforward. Red is 5v, white is ground, green is data line.

I'll come up with some instructions

Note to the picture poster: love your crimping connector, care to share a link to them?

Regards

#11130 2 years ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

OK, so it's super straightforward. Red is 5v, white is ground, green is data line.
I'll come up with some instructions
Note to the picture poster: love your crimping connector, care to share a link to them?
Regards

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07114RK67

13
#11131 2 years ago

THIS is why JJP GnR Pinball playfields are Chipping:

#11132 2 years ago
Quoted from RETROCENGO:

THIS is why JJP GnR Pinball playfields are Chipping:

Well, if that's a contributing factor, it's very easy for JJP / Highclasspinball to fix by just making the holes a lot smaller on new playfields from here on out.

That just leaves the pooling clear and separating art to solve, although the art separation may be related to the slop in the post holes.

#11133 2 years ago

A fix for the Games alreaey Out there would be fine...
So to make the the Post fit tight with the hole, maybe a 3d Print Part or a Rubber/silicon "condom" for the Post.

#11134 2 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

A fix for the Games alreaey Out there would be fine...
So to make the the Post fit tight with the hole, maybe a 3d Print Part or a Rubber/silicon "condom" for the Post.

3D printed, rubber or silicon wouldn't likely be hard enough. Seems like it would need a metal sleeve, but it would be very hard to get the tolerances right to completely eliminate the slop and still make it possible to get the post in. Maybe a hardwood ring that you hammer in? But with such thin walls of the ring, it seems like it might crack...

Seems like some experimentation is in order.

#11135 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

3D printed, rubber or silicon wouldn't likely be hard enough. Seems like it would need a metal sleeve, but it would be very hard to get the tolerances right to completely eliminate the slop and still make it possible to get the post in. Maybe a hardwood ring that you hammer in? But with such thin walls of the ring, it seems like it might crack...
Seems like some experimentation is in order.

You're right Pin Monk maybe it's to soft and a Metal sleeve or hardwood would be the best... Hope there will Be a fix soon.

#11136 2 years ago

I’m assuming the posts are off-the-shelf parts.
Unlikely they will make a thicker post?

#11137 2 years ago

Can’t we just put the Williams post in that spot? I don’t have my game yet so I don’t know if the post Retro was using would fit properly. Seems like that post and mylar May do the trick.

#11138 2 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Can’t we just put the Williams post in that spot? I don’t have my game yet so I don’t know if the post Retro was using would fit properly. Seems like that post and mylar mylar do the trick.

#11139 2 years ago

I intend to install Cliffy carbon washers and PETG clears, looking at the video the thread length of the metal posts will not be long enough to accommodate these. Can anyone provide part # for a suitable post with longer thread please. I am guessing only need 2 of these ? Remove T nut and install washer and nut under playfield. Perhaps JJP could supply a kit with service bulletin ?

#11140 2 years ago

Can someone tell me the name/size ect of the connection for the hot rails on the board? Cheers.

#11141 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Well, if that's a contributing factor, it's very easy for JJP / Highclasspinball to fix by just making the holes a lot smaller on new playfields from here on out.
That just leaves the pooling clear and separating art to solve, although the art separation may be related to the slop in the post holes.

My post in the bumpers screws all the way through the playfield and has a lock nut securing it from below, it's not just screwed into the playfield a few threads like in the video. Perhaps that's been the difference? I had no chipping there after 50 plays or so, after that I installed a mylar ring and petg washer as insurance.

#11142 2 years ago
Quoted from jarozi:

My post in the bumpers screws all the way through the playfield and has a lock nut securing it from below, it's not just screwed into the playfield a few threads like in the video. Perhaps that's been the difference? I had no chipping there after 50 plays or so, after that I installed a mylar ring and petg washer as insurance.

The video is the same. It's a machine screw, so I'm assuming a T-nut or lock nut under the playfield at the very least, but a T-nut would be better than a lock nut, but still not sufficient given the large size of those holes.

#11143 2 years ago

I'm still waiting for my game. I have been reading here for some time now and have played the game on location. What a amazing experience and it wasn't nearly as loud as I would have it at home. This will be my first JJP. This last video makes sense to me to much play makes sense. I am thinking that a sleeve would be ideal but maybe would filler would work just as well. I have fixed plenty of lose parts with just toothpicks. I will definitely be doing something before I play one game. That's kind of sad but pinball for me is a hobby and I don't mind it. Just about every game I ever had needed some tweaks. Looking forward to joining the club. As Ozzy would say GOD BLESS YOU ALL.

#11144 2 years ago

For those who have Mirror blades installed how were you able to get them to line up? I purchased a black pair from pdi and there isn't enough clearance to line the holes up.

IMG_3768 (resized).JPGIMG_3768 (resized).JPG
#11145 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

For those who have Mirror blades installed how were you able to get them to line up? I purchased a black pair from pdi and there isn't enough clearance to line the holes up.
[quoted image]

Is it interfering with the playfield glass channel receiver? If so, you can take out a few of the screws of it to move it out of the way while you put the mirror in there.

Mirror blades went in perfectly on mine, but this channel receiver was offset to the left and blocking the mirror blade install on my dad's.

#11146 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

3D printed, rubber or silicon wouldn't likely be hard enough. Seems like it would need a metal sleeve, but it would be very hard to get the tolerances right to completely eliminate the slop and still make it possible to get the post in. Maybe a hardwood ring that you hammer in? But with such thin walls of the ring, it seems like it might crack...
Seems like some experimentation is in order.

Next size up post screw perhaps?

17
#11147 2 years ago

Got my GNR LE setup with some other music pins. Holy crap, this game is completely off the hook, WOW! Haven’t even played it yet as I plan to install Cliffy and PETG protection first, but damn this thing is bad ass even in jukebox mode. The light show is really something else. Definitely going to do a sound system upgrade on this beauty as the factory sound is pretty weak and needs more bass. This pin is bolted down forever, it’s a damn work of art. JJP absolutely crushed it!

079980C4-8D73-4CC5-A57B-0492A8BD397B (resized).jpeg079980C4-8D73-4CC5-A57B-0492A8BD397B (resized).jpeg1D8DBFA6-E681-44D5-82A0-921BC8EDF28E (resized).jpeg1D8DBFA6-E681-44D5-82A0-921BC8EDF28E (resized).jpeg22C170CE-D1E8-47EB-86C5-59314C828E74 (resized).jpeg22C170CE-D1E8-47EB-86C5-59314C828E74 (resized).jpeg2CB48D9A-3169-497F-8481-CE299DE5D6DC (resized).jpeg2CB48D9A-3169-497F-8481-CE299DE5D6DC (resized).jpeg31E17557-9FC7-4464-A2E2-B3FDC84C8944 (resized).jpeg31E17557-9FC7-4464-A2E2-B3FDC84C8944 (resized).jpeg4DADD4B9-DA55-47A3-BFCC-9D225FBF8054 (resized).jpeg4DADD4B9-DA55-47A3-BFCC-9D225FBF8054 (resized).jpeg69ED1B20-615F-48A7-A7D7-CF5BD96F09D5 (resized).jpeg69ED1B20-615F-48A7-A7D7-CF5BD96F09D5 (resized).jpeg9139E142-4481-4412-994A-C6AE902A2E87 (resized).jpeg9139E142-4481-4412-994A-C6AE902A2E87 (resized).jpegACAAD463-423F-468D-8E96-122A3B9A432E (resized).jpegACAAD463-423F-468D-8E96-122A3B9A432E (resized).jpegAE95860B-4AAC-43DB-940A-621C728110A3 (resized).jpegAE95860B-4AAC-43DB-940A-621C728110A3 (resized).jpegB366219F-9398-442D-A61B-A11DAFDE07E2 (resized).jpegB366219F-9398-442D-A61B-A11DAFDE07E2 (resized).jpegB7D32DE8-D872-44C6-A950-42AFFF6C729A (resized).jpegB7D32DE8-D872-44C6-A950-42AFFF6C729A (resized).jpegC0C68BC7-624E-49BB-8A3E-318DDBF54AEC (resized).jpegC0C68BC7-624E-49BB-8A3E-318DDBF54AEC (resized).jpegDD0A8D56-6885-4298-A8ED-AD6A2A4161BB (resized).jpegDD0A8D56-6885-4298-A8ED-AD6A2A4161BB (resized).jpegF6EFE6B9-360F-40EB-A47F-81AB3524A446 (resized).jpegF6EFE6B9-360F-40EB-A47F-81AB3524A446 (resized).jpeg
#11148 2 years ago

....and the forum goes completely silent as everyone inspects the new pictures for signs of pooling...


Congrats man. Effin awesome!!

#11149 2 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Got my GNR LE setup with some other music pins. Holy crap, this game is completely off the hook, WOW! Haven’t even played it yet as I plan to install Cliffy and PETG protection first, but damn this thing is bad ass even in jukebox mode. The light show is really something else. Definitely going to do a sound system upgrade on this beauty as the factory sound is pretty weak and needs more bass. This pin is bolted down forever, it’s a damn work of art. JJP absolutely crushed it!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club! I agree this pin is both beautiful and incredibly fun.

The easiest solution for bass (if your cab sub has an extra set of terminals):

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/all-other-systems-subwoofer-kits/products/pinsub-multi-system-push-on-kit

Then just remove one of the rear bottom cabinet vent grates and take the line level cable to a sub of your choice. The sub makes a HUGE difference.

If you want to add external amps for mid/highs, there’s a mini audio cable above the main computer in the head that has a male/female connection just behind the right speaker. Disconnect that and add a Y cable and then you can run a mini cable out the top hole of the head. Just note that this output is mid/high only - no bass.

#11150 2 years ago

Now that the easiest sound upgrade solution has been mentioned, I think it's becoming popular to say than the pinwoofer solution may be the best.

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