(Topic ID: 278791)

The Official JJP GnR Owners Thread

By Dallas_Pin

3 years ago


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“Which one are you buying”

  • CE 188 votes
    17%
  • LE 628 votes
    57%
  • SE 77 votes
    7%
  • None 218 votes
    20%

(1111 votes)

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There are 28,080 posts in this topic. You are on page 209 of 562.
#10401 2 years ago

I bought 4 (WOZ,DI,POTC AND WW) JJP games and have not experienced any playfield issues yet. I do have a GNR LE on order. I think its horrible you guys are dealing with these chipping pooling issues.

JJP needs to do something and make things right. If I personally don't hear of some sort of fix I am canceling my game. I would be pissed if I spent 10k and played a game a few hundred games and would have these playfield issues.

These games are not routed and get gentle play in peoples homes. It's ridiculous these games can't stay together.

I own a small business and always do whatever it takes to make things right with my customers.

JJP WAKE UP , BALLS IN YOUR COURT. SHOW YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES TO BE THE BEST PINBALL COMPANY , TREAT YOUR CUSTOMERS WITH SOME RESPECT AND YOU WILL BE REWARDED !

#10402 2 years ago

Not sure who’s recommending those PETG washers but I got mine today to fix/repair/maintain my chipped post and there’s no way the PETG washer is a good solution, at least for the GNR inlane post. They are bulky! They will mess with the balls trajectory. This is not a fix IMO.

Luckily, I happened to find my clear silicone (titan?) washers that I had been looking for all week. The clear ones are small and don’t cover up the damage, but like my Deadpool chip, it’ll do the trick. I covered the damage with a small bit of Mylar first, then applied the post with the clear silicone. Before and after pictures below.

I’ll stick with this until JJP sends me the replacement washers which is going on 2+ weeks now and they still haven’t shipped them as of yesterday (ridiculous).

My wife came into the game room to check to see what I was doing. She knows nothing about pinball, except anytime I get a new game she gets an iWatch or iPhone haha. In any case I showed her what was going on with GNR and she saw and her first words were, ‘whoa! That’s bad business’. Right?

In any case as of now I’m ok with my maintenance fix for now and plan to play the snot out of this game and pray to the pinball gods it doesn’t get worse. I’ll keep you guys updated.

Before:
ED937AE8-82C4-4A2E-A835-21FDD3AA363D (resized).jpegED937AE8-82C4-4A2E-A835-21FDD3AA363D (resized).jpeg

After:
84C6D36D-BDF2-4ECD-8DD1-07D971ED1038 (resized).jpeg84C6D36D-BDF2-4ECD-8DD1-07D971ED1038 (resized).jpeg

BD4EC134-4A7C-440E-A870-274E5007C7DB (resized).jpegBD4EC134-4A7C-440E-A870-274E5007C7DB (resized).jpeg
#10403 2 years ago

Hey all...a couple posts back I made a post on setting up LED's on the LE using a separate Wifi controlled system with 2 independant power sources.

Saw someone else (and Pinstadium) incororate the Hot Rails into the cab and backbox lighting.

Looks like both hot rails tie into the lower PCB board under the playfield using 3 pin molex. (Red/Green/White wires)

Was wondering if anyone had thoughts on this rough sketch idea. (colors are just for dirty reference and not specific)

My plan is to make a Y Connector in between the Hotrails lead plugs and the PCB board housing receptacles on the JJP PCB board and then feed those to my exterior lighting to mimic the Hotrails

Any thoughts or suggested improvements?

Thanks
Screenshot 2021-05-29 133035 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2021-05-29 133035 (resized).jpg

#10404 2 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Not sure who’s recommending those PETG washers but I got mine today to fix/repair/maintain my chipped post and there’s no way the PETG washer is a good solution, at least for the GNR inlane post. They are bulky! They will mess with the balls trajectory. This is not a fix IMO.
Luckily, I happened to find my clear silicone (titan?) washers that I had been looking for all week. The clear ones are small and don’t cover up the damage, but like my Deadpool chip, it’ll do the trick. I covered the damage with a small bit of Mylar first, then applied the post with the clear silicone. Before and after pictures below.
I’ll stick with this until JJP sends me the replacement washers which is going on 2+ weeks now and they still haven’t shipped them as of yesterday (ridiculous).
My wife came into the game room to check to see what I was doing. She knows nothing about pinball, except anytime I get a new game she gets an iWatch or iPhone haha. In any case I showed her what was going on with GNR and she saw and her first words were, ‘whoa! That’s bad business’. Right?
In any case as of now I’m ok with my maintenance fix for now and plan to play the snot out of this game and pray to the pinball gods it doesn’t get worse. I’ll keep you guys updated.
Before:
[quoted image]
After:
[quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have a link to those Titan washers? Are they different or somehow a better option than the ones from Pinballlife? TIA.

#10405 2 years ago
Quoted from tk375:

Do you have a link to those Titan washers? Are they different or somehow a better option than the ones from Pinballlife? TIA.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=154&search=washer

#10406 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Hey all...a couple posts back I made a post on setting up LED's on the LE using a separate Wifi controlled system with 2 independant power sources.
Saw someone else (and Pinstadium) incororate the Hot Rails into the cab and backbox lighting.
Looks like both hot rails tie into the lower PCB board under the playfield using 3 pin molex. (Red/Green/White wires)
Was wondering if anyone had thoughts on this rough sketch idea. (colors are just for dirty reference and not specific)
My plan is to make a Y Connector in between the Hotrails lead plugs and the PCB board housing receptacles on the JJP PCB board and then feed those to my exterior lighting to mimic the Hotrails
Any thoughts or suggested improvements?
Thanks
[quoted image]

Might want to check the amp draw before you add more LEDs to the line.

#10407 2 years ago

...

#10408 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

That's a good point..I guess I was just assuming they used the same PCB board / amp draw with just a branch splitter for the CE's

They might be, I dunno. But I always take extra care before adding additional load to an existing board or connector.

#10409 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

What are you hoping they do?

well I'm hoping they make everyone right. What I expect is much less.

#10410 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

They might be, I dunno. But I always take extra care before adding additional load to an existing board or connector.

Thanks Pinmonk...appreciate the input

#10411 2 years ago

If the hotrails are 5v just get an external 5v power supply to power and ground the extra the leds. I have 300 leds in my Funhouse, with an ext 5v supply, all using a single signal wire in parallel from an arduino.

#10412 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Tough answer not knowing the margins or how many future sales will be lost.
Just a Guess of options
1 Populated playfield for those with Multiple issues unrepairable or not able to hide.
2 Spare playfield that is Known to be corrected
3 Buyback
4 15% discount on next purchase. Yeah not a go to but I suspect some would be willing to hide the pooling for a discount Assuming the issue is resolved! (IE let the next game and buyers pay for the issue by bumping the price a few hundred.)
5 Stay silent and quickly loose customers and see charge backs mount out of control.

Definitely a good point regarding not knowing the margins or how many future sales will be lost. That's something JJP will obviously have to address internally.

I think your number 2 makes the most sense. A populated PF is very unlikely to be offered. #5 is what they are doing now, and is completely unacceptable.

#10413 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Hey all...a couple posts back I made a post on setting up LED's on the LE using a separate Wifi controlled system with 2 independant power sources.
Saw someone else (and Pinstadium) incororate the Hot Rails into the cab and backbox lighting.
Looks like both hot rails tie into the lower PCB board under the playfield using 3 pin molex. (Red/Green/White wires)
Was wondering if anyone had thoughts on this rough sketch idea. (colors are just for dirty reference and not specific)
My plan is to make a Y Connector in between the Hotrails lead plugs and the PCB board housing receptacles on the JJP PCB board and then feed those to my exterior lighting to mimic the Hotrails
Any thoughts or suggested improvements?
Thanks
[quoted image]

T-taps would be a lot easier, I use them all the time for mods, especially pin-stadiums.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YB123S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6S5A58ZW5GJANDWN3D40

#10414 2 years ago
Quoted from UVAJED:

If the hotrails are 5v just get an external 5v power supply to power and ground the extra the leds. I have 300 leds in my Funhouse, with an ext 5v supply, all using a single signal wire in parallel from an arduino.

Thank you...I first didn't understand but now figured it out...appreciate it

I guess I can just tap the Data signal wire then (green wire) and repeat that to the strips while running external 5V for the power?

#10415 2 years ago

Found this laying in my cabinet. Any ideas?

Everything seems to be functioning.

D971C5F5-353A-4B94-A7C2-4EA0868CD0AA (resized).jpegD971C5F5-353A-4B94-A7C2-4EA0868CD0AA (resized).jpeg
#10416 2 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Found this laying in my cabinet. Any ideas?
Everything seems to be functioning.
[quoted image]

Yep that is part of the diverter for the ramp. Fairly common issue, look for a couple black hex screws and lock washers to reassemble.

#10417 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yep that is part of the diverter for the ramp. Fairly common issue, look for a couple black hex screws and lock washers to reassemble.

That didn’t take long in a clean cabinet! I see where they came out and I think I know where this goes

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#10418 2 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

That didn’t take long in a clean cabinet! I see where they came out and I think I know where this goes
[quoted image]

Post #4388 same issue described. Part #12

dfdfd (resized).jpgdfdfd (resized).jpg

#10419 2 years ago

I sent Brett an email back in march. Good luck, you wont get a response.

#10420 2 years ago

don't run the game with out it and make sure you test that it moves freely when you reassemble or you risk cooking the coil and the power board.

#10421 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Hey all...a couple posts back I made a post on setting up LED's on the LE using a separate Wifi controlled system with 2 independant power sources.
Saw someone else (and Pinstadium) incororate the Hot Rails into the cab and backbox lighting.
Looks like both hot rails tie into the lower PCB board under the playfield using 3 pin molex. (Red/Green/White wires)
Was wondering if anyone had thoughts on this rough sketch idea. (colors are just for dirty reference and not specific)
My plan is to make a Y Connector in between the Hotrails lead plugs and the PCB board housing receptacles on the JJP PCB board and then feed those to my exterior lighting to mimic the Hotrails
Any thoughts or suggested improvements?
Thanks
[quoted image]

I’m not sure it will work because the hot rails are addressable leds. Admittedly, I don’t have much experience with addressable leds, but that’s what you’ll need if it would work. Like pinmonk said, I’d watch your power draw, running 10 feet of leds directly off the game might not be a good idea. Personally, I just use music sensitive light strips, they work well, but aren’t tied to the games lighting.

#10422 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

They might be, I dunno. But I always take extra care before adding additional load to an existing board or connector.

I'm showing 5 V steady on each header for each hot rail. I wouldn't know how to measure the load without cutting the positive wire and running it through my multimeter. Which I don't want to do...I think the idea of running external power would probably work better here

Quoted from daveyvandy:

T-taps would be a lot easier, I use them all the time for mods, especially pin-stadiums.
amazon.com link »

Could I T-Tap the green data wire on the addressable strip and leave the power to an external supply?

#10423 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I’m not sure it will work because the hot rails are addressable leds. Admittedly, I don’t have much experience with addressable leds, but that’s what you’ll need if it would work. Like pinmonk said, I’d watch your power draw, running 10 feet of leds directly off the game might not be a good idea. Personally, I just use music sensitive light strips, they work well, but aren’t tied to the games lighting.

Thanks, as others have suggested, I'm now looking at using an external power source(s) for the 5V strips rather than burden the system. However, I don't see harm in tapping the signal wire (green wire) of each rail. That's showing about 2.35V.

#10424 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

You’d still need to play it to get to Not In This Lifetime right (assuming it’s there already, lol)?

Probably.
My son got to Not in This Lifetime last week. He only will tell me that it was mind blowing. lol
Will be awhile before I even get close.

#10425 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I'm showing 5 V steady on each header for each hot rail. I wouldn't know how to measure the load without cutting the positive wire and running it through my multimeter. Which I don't want to do...I think the idea of running external power would probably work better here

Could I T-Tap the green data wire on the addressable strip and leave the power to an external supply?

A simple DC Ammeter you add connectors to on each end can be adapted to go inline on whatever you want to measure, as long as it has connectors. That's what I do.

#10426 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

A simple DC Ammeter you add connectors to on each end can be adapted to go inline on whatever you want to measure, as long as it has connectors. That's what I do.

So in my case of a molex plug with 3 wires, 2 of them being the positive and the ground and the other the data...make 2 connectors for the ground and the data using extra 22 AWG and connect those as normal to the system and then run the positive 3rd wire through the ammeter via connectors hooked up to the leads?

Sorry for so many questions...trying to learn

#10427 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

So in my case of a molex plug with 3 wires, 2 of them being the positive and the ground and the other the data...make 2 connectors for the ground and the data using extra 22 AWG and then run the positive 3rd wire through the ammeter via connectors hooked up to the leads?
Sorry for so many questions...trying to learn

Mmm, not sure in that case. I don't know how that data line works. I *assume* the positive carries the load and would be the one that needs to be measured. So just the red and black would have to pass through the DC ammeter.

#10428 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Mmm, not sure in that case. I don't know how that data line works. I *assume* the positive carries the load and would be the one that needs to be measured. So just the red and black would have to pass through the DC ammeter.

Thank you again

#10429 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I’m not sure it will work because the hot rails are addressable leds. Admittedly, I don’t have much experience with addressable leds, but that’s what you’ll need if it would work. Like pinmonk said, I’d watch your power draw, running 10 feet of leds directly off the game might not be a good idea. Personally, I just use music sensitive light strips, they work well, but aren’t tied to the games lighting.

Just found this about aRGB

"With these strips, the data signal runs through the center wire on all the strips. This wire is okay to consecutively connect end-to-end on as many strips as you want to connect. This is because this wire only carries data. No power. And the best part is that the controller chips in each LED module on the strips repeats and boosts the signal. So there is no signal loss down the line."

So in theory, if i powered a 5V strip externally, I could branch in the data wire from the game with no degredation...in theory ..

#10430 2 years ago

The question I have would be whether or not the video that was posted was actually just lights reaction to the music through the microphone of the LEDs? If so that looked pretty darn good.

#10431 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

The question I have would be whether or not the video that was posted was actually just lights reaction to the music through the microphone of the LEDs? If so that looked pretty darn good.

It looked like the same color and sequence....you're talking about the Live and Let die one, correct?

#10432 2 years ago

@fooflighter
Yep. It looked great just like yours. Seemed to sync very well. Need to hear more from the OP. Assuming yours didn't sync to the music like that? I only saw pictures of yours.

#10433 2 years ago

Need to ask gump79

#10434 2 years ago

Okay...I can't stop thinking about trying to make this work (Damn OCD)..here's a revision with the aRGB powered externally and the data line being split

argb (resized).jpgargb (resized).jpg

#10435 2 years ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Hey did you use the same LED products as fooflighter ? Nothing is hard wired into the game? Just the LEDs set to your colors preference and microphone on the LED reacting to the music?

I don't think he did it like mine...his looks sequenced and hard wired to the Hot rails

#10436 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Okay...I can't stop thinking about trying to make this work (Damn OCD)..here's a revision with the aRGB powered externally and the data line being split[quoted image]

Pinball OCD is the worst!
Good luck. I’m just happy I can play my GNR again. It’s been 2 weeks, it’s like I’m a virgin again

#10437 2 years ago
Quoted from gump79:

Looks good!
Been working on some cab lighting myself. Started under cabinet first. Need to install the head next.

Did you sync this with the hot rail lights wiring?

#10438 2 years ago

fooflighter is on the right path.

This was proof of concept and I still have some wiring and clean up to go. They are 5v addressable led strips. I have them tapped off the feed going to the hot rails right now. But what Lermods said, I’m not sure what the amp draw is. The plan is to take the power from an alternate tap point and just use the signal line.

#10439 2 years ago
Quoted from gump79:

fooflighter is on the right path.
This was proof of concept and I still have some wiring and clean up to go. They are 5v addressable led strips. I have them tapped off the feed going to the hot rails right now. But what Lermods said, I’m not sure what the amp draw is. The plan is to take the power from an alternate tap point and just use the signal line.

Awesome!!! Thanks so much for the feedback

#10440 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Thank you...I first didn't understand but now figured it out...appreciate it
I guess I can just tap the Data signal wire then (green wire) and repeat that to the strips while running external 5V for the power?

Yes sir. Just make sure that the hotrails are 5v dc vs. 12v etc. Either read the schematics (if they're available) or probe the positive wire with a multimeter to make sure.

I used a 5v 20A 100W Ac to DC power supply from Amazon to power 300+ addressable leds without a problem.

Something to consider is...how many leds are in the hotrails and what type/style are they...WS2812b...etc? <<<you'll want to make sure to use the same type of addressable leds and have the same # of leds per strand running parallel to not have blank leds or for them not to accept the signal.

I talked to JJP when I was considering a gnr le if I could buy the integrated leds that's in the ce, and was basically told no. For a super led enthusiast I wouldn't be able to live with that answer; so I'm happy to help someone figure it out but do it at your own risk.

All I can say is that I have a FH with both ramps, under and behind cab leds that look like the 4th of July with the flashers. Check out Professor Pinball on here or yt to see more if you're curious. One can never have enough leds imo.

#10441 2 years ago
Quoted from UVAJED:

Yes sir. Just make sure that the hotrails are 5v dc vs. 12v etc. Either read the schematics (if they're available) or probe the positive wire with a multimeter to make sure.
I used a 5v 20A 100W Ac to DC power supply from Amazon to power 300+ addressable leds without a problem.
Something to consider is...how many leds are in the hotrails and what type/style are they...WS2812b...etc? <<<you'll want to make sure to use the same type of addressable leds and have the same # of leds per strand running parallel to not have blank leds or for them not to accept the signal.
I talked to JJP when I was considering a gnr le if I could buy the integrated leds that's in the ce, and was basically told no. For a super led enthusiast I wouldn't be able to live with that answer; so I'm happy to help someone figure it out but do it at your own risk.
All I can say is that I have a FH with both ramps, under and behind cab leds that look like the 4th of July with the flashers. Check out Professor Pinball on here or yt to see more if you're curious. One can never have enough leds imo.

Good stuff here. Totally understand the risk part and thank you for sharing. I did probe both ports on the PCB and they are a constant 5V with the data line being around 2.35V.

So quick question....If the hotrail on the left side is shorter let's say, and I put a longer strand underneath the cab, when the hotrail meets the end of the strand, does the longer one lose the addressable signal for any leds over the number of the shorter strip? Just wanted to run the entire under cab length...but I guess a solution would be just to mimick the hotrails number of LED's per side below the cab...or use one rail signal and split that signal between both led's cabs below the cab to get uniform led count...

#10442 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Okay...I can't stop thinking about trying to make this work (Damn OCD)..here's a revision with the aRGB powered externally and the data line being split
[quoted image]

You've got 5v and 12v DC from the PC power supply in the head, why not just tap that? No need for 2 AC adapters.

#10443 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You've got 5v and 12v DC from the PC power supply in the head, why not just tap that? No need for 2 AC adapters.

That's a good idea. Thx

#10444 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

EK Tools Circle Punch, 0.75-Inch, New Package amazon.com link »
Swingline 1 Hole Punch, Single Hole Puncher, 5 Sheet Capacity, Classic Office Paper Punch for Craft Paper, DIY Crafts, Perfect for Home Office School Supplies, Chrome (74005) amazon.com link »
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=mylar_24inch

Great idea, Thanks! Fortunatly I have a vinyl cutter. Takes 2 minutes to cut.

#10445 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Good stuff here. Totally understand the risk part and thank you for sharing. I did probe both ports on the PCB and they are a constant 5V with the data line being around 2.35V.
So quick question....If the hotrail on the left side is shorter let's say, and I put a longer strand underneath the cab, when the hotrail meets the end of the strand, does the longer one lose the addressable signal for any leds over the number of the shorter strip? Just wanted to run the entire under cab length...but I guess a solution would be just to mimick the hotrails number of LED's per side below the cab...or use one rail signal and split that signal between both led's cabs below the cab to get uniform led count...

Good question; and I can't wait to see this done to an LE bc it deserves it without restrictions if someone tells you it can't be done.

I've yet to see a gnr in person, but from what I can see on yt it seems both hotrails are in synchronization.. ..front to back/back to front..aka identical..?

However, if the left/right hotrails' leds sometimes go in different directions; then you have to separate/tap the left and the right rails' signal separately.

On that note, let's say the left rail is -15 leds vs. the right, it will definitely flow and look good under/behind the cabinet just as well (so yes, mimick the # of leds per side); but to get the full "swirling" effect you will need to use/tap both the left and signal wires separately. (You can still use the same ext power supply to power them...you just need to seperate the signal).

I can not say this enough or loud enough, so I apologize for all of the 'boomers' that people on here mention with CAPS, or whoever else in advance and please don't be offended...

...DO NOT EVER TAP INTO ANY CURRENT POWER SUPPLY ON A PIN TO POWER ANYTHING ELSE BESIDES WHAT IT WAS DESIGNED TO POWER ON BOARD ALREADY....EVER!!! (Secondary voltage-power supplies are cheap and easily wired without pulling amps from/stressing an existing board of any kind...and the engineers behind these masterpieces are 'kinda' smart).

In a nutshell, you seemingly have 5v addressable leds..as you've proved.

WS2812B are pretty much the standard addressable leds, so I'd go with them and the power supply I mentioned. Good measurement on the sub-power signal voltage.

You might have 2 different led signal inputs (left/right) giving the hotrails their signals depending on if they always go in the same addressable direction or not.

Get that external power supply (DO NOT USE CURRENT BOARDS FOR POWER EVER) and match the # of leds underneath and behind accordingly and you won't notice a difference. It will glow beautifully.

If both hotrails react the same the entire gameplay, then you can just use one signal wire from either of them for awesomeness in your near future. If not, again, use the left signal hotrail wire for your under/behind cab leds and the right the same.

I used 16-18 gauge speaker wire from Walmart to run everything on my FH. <<<you don't want to go with less strands of wire (or way to heavy) when passing signal/power to these oh so sensitive things like this.

Keep us posted and can't wait to see this in action.

#10446 2 years ago
Quoted from UVAJED:

Good question; and I can't wait to see this done to an LE bc it deserves it without restrictions if someone tells you it can't be done.
I've yet to see a gnr in person, but from what I can see on yt it seems both hotrails are in synchronization.. ..front to back/back to front..aka identical..?
However, if the left/right hotrails' leds sometimes go in different directions; then you have to separate/tap the left and the right rails' signal separately.
On that note, let's say the left rail is -15 leds vs. the right, it will definitely flow and look good under/behind the cabinet just as well (so yes, mimick the # of leds per side); but to get the full "swirling" effect you will need to use/tap both the left and signal wires separately. (You can still use the same ext power supply to power them...you just need to seperate the signal).
I can not say this enough or loud enough, so I apologize for all of the 'boomers' that people on here mention with CAPS, or whoever else in advance and please don't be offended...
...DO NOT EVER TAP INTO ANY CURRENT POWER SUPPLY ON A PIN TO POWER ANYTHING ELSE BESIDES WHAT IT WAS DESIGNED TO POWER ON BOARD ALREADY....EVER!!! (Secondary voltage-power supplies are cheap and easily wired without pulling amps from/stressing an existing board of any kind...and the engineers behind these masterpieces are 'kinda' smart).
In a nutshell, you seemingly have 5v addressable leds..as you've proved.
WS2812B are pretty much the standard addressable leds, so I'd go with them and the power supply I mentioned. Good measurement on the sub-power signal voltage.
You might have 2 different led signal inputs (left/right) giving the hotrails their signals depending on if they always go in the same addressable direction or not.
Get that external power supply (DO NOT USE CURRENT BOARDS FOR POWER EVER) and match the # of leds underneath and behind accordingly and you won't notice a difference. It will glow beautifully.
If both hotrails react the same the entire gameplay, then you can just use one signal wire from either of them for awesomeness in your near future. If not, again, use the left signal hotrail wire for your under/behind cab leds and the right the same.
I used 16-18 gauge speaker wire from Walmart to run everything on my FH. <<<you don't want to go with less strands of wire (or way to heavy) when passing signal/power to these oh so sensitive things like this.
Keep us posted and can't wait to see this in action.

Thank you so much for the detail...I agree..I think to give the exact mirror effect under the pin, I'm going to do the mimick method with a shorter count on the left side to match the left hotrail, as the rails do have different effects at different times (whirling...pulsing...back and forth etc) so even though it may not run the entire length of the underneath cab on the left side, I think the sync will be more important for the effect as viewed from above.

I will try it first though with the full length add on strip paralleled to the shorter hot rail and see what results I get (Expecting it to be messed up). I'm guessing the CE may be programmed with it's own controller board to signal the aRGB strip and not simply a mirror off the Hot rails...which would make sense why Keefer said it was programmed specific to the CE seeing as how the CE runs the entire length under cab and seems independant of the Hotrail led count. May just wind up with the remaining lights caught in some weird non matching synced state, or they may just start the sequence over making the new 0 point 2/3rd's down the strand, which may throw things off.. If that happens, I'll just cut the strip to the exact count and call it done. It'll be more of a bloom effect when viewed from above anyways.

Thanks again

#10447 2 years ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Thank you so much for the detail...I agree..I think to give the exact mirror effect under the pin, I'm going to do the mimick method with a shorter count on the left side to match the left hotrail, as the rails do have different effects at different times (whirling...pulsing...back and forth etc) so even though it may not run the entire length of the underneath cab on the left side, I think the sync will be more important for the effect as viewed from above.
I will try it first though with the full length add on strip paralleled to the shorter hot rail and see what results I get (Expecting it to be messed up). I'm guessing the CE may be programmed with it's own controller board to signal the aRGB strip and not simply a mirror off the Hot rails...which would make sense why Keefer said it was programmed specific to the CE seeing as how the CE runs the entire length under cab and seems independant of the Hotrail led count. May just wind up with the remaining lights caught in some weird non matching synced state, or they may just start the sequence over making the new 0 point 2/3rd's down the strand, which may throw things off.. If that happens, I'll just cut the strip to the exact count and call it done. It'll be more of a bloom effect when viewed from above anyways.
Thanks again

No problem and happy to help. The ws2812 strips that I use for everything addressable and awesome have 60 leds per meter. You can cut/solder them basically every inch to lengthen them to whatever length that would stretch to span the legnth of the underside/back of your cabinet to make it more uniform... ..since I'm guessing that's what might concern you..?!

<<<just make sure to power them from an ext 5v power supply.. ..and if you run into any probs ?'s feel free to pm me and I'll be happy to help if I'm not keeping up with this thread..

Btw, don't worry too much for now about keeping them uniform to the pf (left/right) bc once you experiment with moving them around and/or criss-crossing them under/behind the cab; you may find a better and/or more interesting pattern than the stock ce.

#10449 2 years ago

Well this post was pretty disgusting. I get called a shill, JJP employee, etc all the time. I’m not getting any special treatment here, nor am I trying to.

It’s pretty simple.

I like what they do with the games.
I respect the huge amount of work it takes multiple people to bring them to fruition.
I understand the supportability challenges.
And I am empathetic to the fact they didn’t make the damn playfields.

I’m a maker too and understand how hard it can be.

If being empathetic and appreciative makes me a pinside villian then I’ll start twisting my mustache.

#10450 2 years ago

Did you have an issue with your game in the two weeks you had it? That would be tough. No issues on mine knock on wood.

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