Quoted from jalpert:I believe the difference in having issues or not is how tight the posts are installed during assembly.
I think their fix was washers but also to not screw down everything so hard.
If someone was really worried about it, I would recommend people loosen posts and either hand tighten or very carefully tighten with a tool.
I wouldn’t do this. You just don’t need to.
I agree with this 100%, I have pooling around the post between the 2 left inlanes (this post takes a beating). It was cranked so tight when I went to install a clear washer it actually sliced the art off underneath it. I put washers on a couple other posts so far and they were just snug like one would expect. I think the first step for JJP would be to purchase tools that limit or measure the torque for the installers and if they have them it time to recheck those specs.
Quoted from chuckwurt:This issue is 100% on Mirco.
So if ford put out cars with faulty airbags you’d blame the airbag supplier?
NASA wasn’t responsible for the challenger explosion either right, it was the o ring manufacturers fault.
April build, took delivery in early April. About 350 games in (took home two NIB machines that day) and the posts at the top by the bumpers are starting to bubble and the art is separating. Washers are on order and I will be adding them to the cliffy install project and rubber replacement as well. Just sharing the build date and timeline, for those that are low on plays, keep an eye out. It might be better to do it proactivly.
I'm waiting on my LE, delivery in July (Europe build). I'll check the build date (if I can find the information), but reading this thread on the playfield quality is really a concern. I'll definitely check all of my posts
Quoted from JDub03:Washers are on order and I will be adding them to the cliffy install project and rubber replacement as well. Just sharing the build date and timeline, for those that are low on plays, keep an eye out. It might be better to do it proactivly.
I read somewhere PinMonk was doing mylar circles for the bottom of the posts , that could be the way to go .
Is that correct pin Monk
Has anyone played with or tried tweaking their inner spinner ‘S’ shot that goes past the pops and up to the lanes? I’m trying to get it more consistent. There’s an adjustment screw next to the spinner that seems to help, I think pitch and flipper power play a key role as well. The lane guide under the ramp has adjustment screws as well but they seem like a pain to get to so haven’t got to play around with that guide so much.
Just curious if anyone else has OCD like me and has tried any other tweaks or experiments with more successful results.
Got my game yesterday. I likely could have had one earlier but wanted a specific number #1025. Anniversary date plus I was hoping playfield and other issues would be fixed. So far so good. I do have some black washers on some posts that I havent seen prior. That does not bother me much.
After about 6-7 plays R flipper was not working great. Opened and a Coil Stop fell to the bottom. Replaced and tightened up. All of the coil stops needed a lot of tightening. I should have done that prior I guess. Plays great and cant wait to play at home after spending a lot of money playing on location.
Quoted from chuckwurt:No way. If the art adheres to the wood correctly, you can tighten the post down until it disintegrates, and all that will be left is a white ring on the clear/art where the post damaged it from being over tighten.
Long story short, if the art and clear is applied correctly, this issue shouldn’t even be possible.
I could have not said this any better!
Quoted from screaminr:I agree 100% but if it wasn't screwed as hard maybe you could get away with it . Maybe ?
...where we treat our playfields and customers the same.
Quoted from screaminr:I read somewhere PinMonk was doing mylar circles for the bottom of the posts , that could be the way to go .
Is that correct pin Monk
Yeah, I've sold them since jjPotC in the pinside pinmonk store and on pinmonk.com, but back in those charming times people bought maybe one or two ten packs. Now, with this jjGnRpocalypse people are buying 3, 4, 5 10 packs of all sizes, including the formerly less popular "L" size. So, I'm currently backordered, having blown through a year's worth of mylar in a few weeks. I expect to have some more made next Tuesday or so once I get more mylar. Yelobird has said he's making them now/soon, too, which is frankly great news because they're a pain to make.
Quoted from PinMonk:Yeah, I've sold them since jjPotC in the pinside pinmonk store and on pinmonk.com, but back in those charming times people bought maybe one or two ten packs. Now, with this jjGnRpocalypse people are buying 3, 4, 5 10 packs of all sizes, including the formerly less popular "L" size. So, I'm currently backordered, having blown through a year's worth of mylar in a few weeks. I expect to have some more made next Tuesday or so once I get more mylar. Yelobird has said he's making them now/soon, too, which is frankly great news because they're a pain to make.
Yeah not a fun process but I have close to 3000 at this point so I will list them shortly.
Waiting for my LE, I'm a bit confused on the need for washers : I understood that some of the more recent builds have plastic washers installed, but maybe they're not on every post of the playfield ? Meaning I should purchase some additional 3/4" PETG washers to play it safe when I receive the machine ?
Quoted from Yelobird:Yeah not a fun process but I have close to 3000 at this point so I will list them shortly.
A product we are sad to offer but unfortunately for now you have to protect your investment. These mylar rings can be used after playfield repair using an iron etc. I however STRONGLY suggest using these to protect the playfield post areas BEFORE damage happens! A preemptive solution. Very simple to install and while not guaranteed has proven to mitigate or avoid issues long term which are often not reversible once the damage is done. Take a few minutes to protect your investment! This size was designed to support Both large and small playfield posts. You do Not want anything smaller as the goal is to bond that mass area as one so it stays together and does not pool up or allow the post to bite in or twist the surface area. Kit is sold as a pack of (10) which should be enough for most any game. Free US shipping on this kit!
www.TheModCouplePinball.com
Quoted from chuckwurt:No way. If the art adheres to the wood correctly, you can tighten the post down until it disintegrates, and all that will be left is a white ring on the clear/art where the post damaged it from being over tighten.
Long story short, if the art and clear is applied correctly, this issue shouldn’t even be possible.
Agreed. I hate to say this, but the amount of disinformation bowling around is a little concerning.
Its plainly obvious that torquing down posts on a normal playfield does not result in de-lamination.
Quoted from Yelobird:A product we are sad to offer but unfortunately for now you have to protect your investment. These mylar rings can be used after playfield repair using an iron etc. I however STRONGLY suggest using these to protect the playfield post areas BEFORE damage happens! A preemptive solution. Very simple to install and while not guaranteed has proven to mitigate or avoid issues long term which are often not reversible once the damage is done. Take a few minutes to protect your investment! This size was designed to support Both large and small playfield posts. You do Not want anything smaller as the goal is to bond that mass area as one so it stays together and does not pool up or allow the post to bite in or twist the surface area. Kit is sold as a pack of (10) which should be enough for most any game. Free US shipping on this kit!
www.TheModCouplePinball.com
[quoted image][quoted image]
If JJP decide to miraculously do a support U turn , I wonder how forthcoming they will be to offer any assistance if owner has employed this fix with heat/iron on playfield. Just a thought......
Props to fooflighter foe the documentation on his cab lighting setup, it’s a solid addition for sure! The lights reacting to the music is an added over the top bonus!
3D7B47AA-C5F5-49A1-9208-8EC2BB023C00 (resized).jpegHappy weekend to all .I finally have the time for the “scoop from hell”.They sent a new snubber bracket and Im still where I was .Seems the holes drilled into PF are way off .Setting it as is in holes is nowhere close .I drilled the snubber last time slightly and that wasn’t enough .Ill try to drill further just because i want to play the thing real bad but does anyone have any suggestions as if i drill the holes wide to swivel i believe it will be an ongoing problem coming loose here n there .As always much appreciated .
3509EE4A-C711-4193-B5E6-3F08CF71D92B (resized).jpegB32E3384-ABFC-46EA-8F46-657700BCD708 (resized).jpeg3CE2C865-63A9-4A0D-A6A1-6B776DBA2783 (resized).jpeg3991E4F8-6A3F-4083-9D0F-B35D7408064C (resized).jpegI think you misread my post.
I stated that their fix was to not tighten things down so hard. I didn’t say it worked, was a good idea or acceptable in any way.
It works to some extent, but again, no, we shouldn’t have to worry about it.
Quoted from chuckwurt:No way. If the art adheres to the wood correctly, you can tighten the post down until it disintegrates, and all that will be left is a white ring on the clear/art where the post damaged it from being over tighten.
Long story short, if the art and clear is applied correctly, this issue shouldn’t even be possible.
Quoted from Sako-TRG:If JJP decide to miraculously do a support U turn , I wonder how forthcoming they will be to offer any assistance if owner has employed this fix with heat/iron on playfield. Just a thought......
The kit is to install Before or prevent the issue. Iron press is a last resort repair After (if) they don’t offer a resolution. While it sucks to Have to do this I have found doing this Before pooling or damage drastically reduces the chances of it happening.
Quoted from atg1469:Props to fooflighter foe the documentation on his cab lighting setup, it’s a solid addition for sure! The lights reacting to the music is an added over the top bonus!
[quoted image]
Looks good!
Been working on some cab lighting myself. Started under cabinet first. Need to install the head next.
Quoted from jalpert:I think you misread my post.
I stated that their fix was to not tighten things down so hard. I didn’t say it worked, was a good idea or acceptable in any way.
It works to some extent, but again, no, we shouldn’t have to worry about it.
Actually, you started your post by saying this:
Quoted from jalpert:I believe the difference in having issues or not is how tight the posts are installed during assembly.
I think Chuckwurt's reading of your post was accurate.
Quoted from Kkoss24:Happy weekend to all .I finally have the time for the “scoop from hell”.They sent a new snubber bracket and Im still where I was .Seems the holes drilled into PF are way off .Setting it as is in holes is nowhere close .I drilled the snubber last time slightly and that wasn’t enough .Ill try to drill further just because i want to play the thing real bad but does anyone have any suggestions as if i drill the holes wide to swivel i believe it will be an ongoing problem coming loose here n there .As always much appreciated .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah, alignment looks way off, sorry I can't help with pics atm, still waiting for my game. You may want to check/replace your balls ? Pf looking scuffed up, should polish out.
For what it’s worth, Barry from JJP emailed me today regarding my claim. He said the washers will help prevent damage and making sure the posts are tight on the playfield will help as well.
Some people got games that don’t have issues which I believe is due to posts not being secured so tightly.
How you guys are taking that as a defense of JJP or a justification for the bullshit is puzzling.
I think tightly secured posts are causing the pooling.
That’s it. Yes, it shouldn’t matter, and I’m NOT saying it’s okay that posts secured snug will fuck up your play field.
Quoted from RobT:Actually, you started your post by saying this:
I think Chuckwurt's reading of your post was accurate.
With a washer, yes.
I think that if you want to avoid issues, loosen all your posts.
Tighten your posts hard with your hand.
If you need a post to be tighter, put a washer under it and with a tool tighten it as gently as possible.
I would not over tighten posts without a washer.
Quoted from Eskaybee:making sure the posts are tight on the playfield will help as well.
Quoted from Kkoss24:Happy weekend to all .I finally have the time for the “scoop from hell”.They sent a new snubber bracket and Im still where I was .Seems the holes drilled into PF are way off .Setting it as is in holes is nowhere close .I drilled the snubber last time slightly and that wasn’t enough .Ill try to drill further just because i want to play the thing real bad but does anyone have any suggestions as if i drill the holes wide to swivel i believe it will be an ongoing problem coming loose here n there .As always much appreciated .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here's what I have when I put my cliffy scoop on ...sorry I don't have any of just the holes.
You can see my scoop hood though. In the factory versus what I bent it to
Have you just tried screwing the hood to a piece of wood then using pliers, bend it to the left...it's pretty malleable and doesn't take much....Yours doesn't look like it would need much adjusting...I wouldn't cut swivel holes...your scoop hood bracket would be jutting out into the scoop hole possibly causing interferece or strange reject deflections
Factory
Bent
Quoted from atg1469:Props to fooflighter foe the documentation on his cab lighting setup, it’s a solid addition for sure! The lights reacting to the music is an added over the top bonus!
[quoted image]
Looks great! Glad I could help!
Quoted from jalpert:With a washer, yes.
I think that if you want to avoid issues, loosen all your posts.
Tighten your posts hard with your hand.
If you need a post to be tighter, put a washer under it and with a tool tighten it as gently as possible.
I would not over tighten posts without a washer.
This is bad advice.
I had post with a perfectly secured post get damage.
I also had a post that was loose get damage.
Quoted from gump79:Looks good!
Been working on some cab lighting myself. Started under cabinet first. Need to install the head next.
I didn't go as far as you and sync to the Hot rails, care to show how you did that? Thanks
The washers that JJP sends out/installs on slings are not flat, they have ridges that get jammed into the play field. I assume this is intentional for whatever reason
Quoted from jalpert:I think tightly secured posts are causing the pooling.
And I KNOW that if the playfields were made properly, tight post or loose post, pooling and art lifting would never occur. It’s just not possible on a proper playfield.
Quoted from Sako-TRG:Agreed. I hate to say this, but the amount of disinformation bowling around is a little concerning.
Its plainly obvious that torquing down posts on a normal playfield does not result in de-lamination.
Not so.. I installed a cliffy on my GOTG and torqued it too much. Rookie mistake. It pooled a little. Anything laid on top of something else can separate.
Quoted from smokinhos:Not so.. I installed a cliffy on my GOTG and torqued it too much. Rookie mistake. It pooled a little. Anything laid on top of something else can separate.
Sure it can. But it shouldn’t. Your GOTG playfield wasn’t manufactured properly either.
Pooling and art lifting off the playfield should ever ever happen. The art should adhere properly and the top coat of clear should protect the art.
If a post is over tightened, all that should happen is a white ring should be where the post was just spinning and digging into the art.
Hence why Mirco tried to prove his CE playfields were perfect by over tightening a post under the apron to show it wouldn’t pool. But he still sent bad ones out anyway.
I have to give a LOUD RINGING endorsement to PinMonk and the Tibetan Breeze Kit for GnR.
First off the packaging and instructions.
Love the quality and care - true pro stuff right here. Funny, clever, and well thought out instructions with illustrations
Install time - everything fit perfectly and install was a breeze (no pun)- literally 20 minutes
Sound, virtually undetectable with glass on and lock bar secure.
Now for the best part:
They are a game changer....and by this I mean...you can't play GnR without them after you try them once.
They allow you to keep your flipper performance at a constant throughout play. Not only strength, but the ability to string together combos, backhands, and shots, impossible through normal progression in the game without the fan kit due to flipper fade.
They are worth every penny and they should be the first mod you install on your machine...followed a close second by the Pinwoofer JJP Super kit
A++++++++++
Quoted from fooflighter:I have to give a LOUD RINGING endorsement to PinMonk and the Tibetan Breeze Kit for GnR.
First off the packaging and instructions.
Love the quality and care - true pro stuff right here. Funny, clever, and well thought out instructions with illustrations
Install time - everything fit perfectly and install was a breeze (no pun)- literally 20 minutes
Sound, virtually undetectable with glass on and lock bar secure.
Now for the best part:
They are a game changer....and by this I mean...you can't play GnR without them after you try them once.
They allow you to keep your flipper performance at a constant throughout play. Not only strength, but the ability to string together combos, backhands, and shots, impossible through normal progression in the game without the fan kit due to flipper fade.
They are worth every penny and they should be the first mod you install on your machine...followed a close second by the Pinwoofer JJP Super kit
A++++++++++
I’ll second this. I installed today simultaneously with installing the cliffy at the scoop (using your instructions by the way...so thank you). The fans are awesome.
Also, I was getting some serious ball bounce as it rolled down the inlane onto the flippers. I had been using super bands. I changed to the slim titans and the bounce is pretty much gone
Quoted from Mattyk:I’ll second this. I installed today simultaneously with installing the cliffy at the scoop (using your instructions by the way...so thank you). The fans are awesome.
Also, I was getting some serious ball bounce as it rolled down the inlane onto the flippers. I had been using super bands. I changed to the slim titans and the bounce is pretty much gone
Yep, the superbands are just too hard and grippy. They're great for operators and logevity/cleaning...but too much inlane to flipper bounce for the home...I love how they look though but Titans on everything for me
Glad the Cliffy install went well
Great to hear. My fans just arrived today! They are sitting in my office with the pin woofer and a growing assortment of mods (and washers) just waiting for the big day!
Quoted from jarozi:If I may be allowed, a moment of celebration amongst playfieldgate, my LE machine is to be delivered this week. May it be blessed with diamondcoathian durability. For ever and ever, huzzah.
This is great news! Who is your distributor? Mine still hasn’t gotten any inventory in awhile.
Quoted from Yelobird:A product we are sad to offer but unfortunately for now you have to protect your investment. These mylar rings can be used after playfield repair using an iron etc.
Are these really $10 for 10 post mylar rings?
Quoted from PappyBoyington:Are these really $10 for 10 post mylar rings?
They're a time-consuming hassle to make. You're paying mostly for labor, not necessarily materials.
Quoted from Yelobird:A product we are sad to offer but unfortunately for now you have to protect your investment. These mylar rings can be used after playfield repair using an iron etc. I however STRONGLY suggest using these to protect the playfield post areas BEFORE damage happens! A preemptive solution. Very simple to install and while not guaranteed has proven to mitigate or avoid issues long term which are often not reversible once the damage is done. Take a few minutes to protect your investment! This size was designed to support Both large and small playfield posts. You do Not want anything smaller as the goal is to bond that mass area as one so it stays together and does not pool up or allow the post to bite in or twist the surface area. Kit is sold as a pack of (10) which should be enough for most any game. Free US shipping on this kit!
www.TheModCouplePinball.com
It appears The Mod Couple don't ship to Australia - at least that's what it's telling me when I'm trying to checkout on their store. I'm hoping PinMonk has some of these coming??
Quoted from fooflighter:Here's what I have when I put my cliffy scoop on ...sorry I don't have any of just the holes.
You can see my scoop hood though. In the factory versus what I bent it to
Have you just tried screwing the hood to a piece of wood then using pliers, bend it to the left...it's pretty malleable and doesn't take much....Yours doesn't look like it would need much adjusting...I wouldn't cut swivel holes...your scoop hood bracket would be jutting out into the scoop hole possibly causing interferece or strange reject deflections
Factory
[quoted image]
Bent
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thanks FF ,and thanks to all.My first thought was pliers but it didn’t seem right after i had loosened and swung the original.After exhausting every option in settings ,toying with leveling ,and nudging like SR i drilled both holes, widening the range of both to swing left.I would guess 1/4 inch each and still couldn’t touch the flipper .JJP sent a new snubber ,so this time i kept the right hole as is and drilled the left 3/8 inch swinging left .Then took off 1/8 off the back as it was touching the ball lock .Next polished up and laid mylar on the underside .It’s now in the sweet spot and Im at peace (after I get a T nut the right is MIA).Out of curiosity does anyone have any thoughts on the matter because i’m still thinking either the fastener holes are off or the scoop hole is .last but not least big shout out to modcouple on the shadow box
12628844-468A-4B97-9B68-8DDD06348D03 (resized).jpeg9FF7138B-189D-4006-A545-4DC56829CCF6 (resized).jpeg0FF4D9D4-8945-49A8-AB9D-0F8EAD920D29 (resized).jpegCC874AB8-D54B-47CE-9E09-F5B81829027C (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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