Quoted from trimoto:

Has anyone else had problems updating with wifi.

Quoted from Mattyk:

I’d love if a future code update included alphabetizing the patches, showing what patches you collected during play without having to enter status report, and showing how much a jackpot you had going after you drain during a song

Quoted from LukyDuck:

I agree with your last two items. Those appeal to me. But I like the patches being in the order they are. Makes it more challenging to remember them while playing.

Quoted from Mattyk:

Thanks. I’ve only had the game about a week and a slingshot ring snapped. lol. Luckily there’s extra in the goodie bag

Quoted from pinball_keefer:

I've considered for quite a while putting in a no-hold penalty for shooting it 3x in a row, a la Crystal Ball lane on WOZ...

Quoted from pinball_keefer:

I've considered for quite a while putting in a no-hold penalty for shooting it 3x in a row, a la Crystal Ball lane on WOZ...

Quoted from NightTrain:

Mine does this as well. I was going to look into adjusting the left orbit guide. Not sure if there is room for it to move at all.

Quoted from NightTrain:

Can someone elaborate on this and explain it to me?

Quoted from LowScores:

Is there a good mug shot on the best places to adjust this? Half the time I take something apart and find out I should have started with a single screw and minor adjustment. I haven't pulled the plastics off to see yet but figured I'd ask you folks.

Quoted from PinMonk:

That may work, but I would think 0 brightness would muddy the shadows too much.

Quoted from fooflighter:

Thanks guys...Okay, I did some tinkering.
This is in a completely dark room the way I play so your results my vary a little.
My defaults from JJP on the monitor were 100 Brightness and 50 Contrast.
(To access the monitor controls (see pics at bottom of post), insert your backbox key that you originally had attached to the shooter rod and most likely have it hanging inside the coin door. Remove backglass and pull on the top left and right of the monitor where it says "LCD PULL HERE". It requires a bit of force to break the magnet connection. The controls are on the right side. Menu Brings up the main menu. You can either scroll with the up down arrows to a new category or Press menu again to highlight the value you wish to change and use the left and right arrows to change the values. Press menu again and then use up down arrows to go to a new setting in the submenu. To back out to the front menu Press the Auto button. You can then select a new category and Menu to enter that submenu. It's a little tricky as the menu has a timeout, but you'll get the hang of it)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here are the setting adjustments:
[quoted image]
1. I turned the Brightness down to zero at first then came up to 25 as it dimmed too much. 25 is just at the threshold where it started getting washed (again your results may vary depending on your ambient lighting) - for those with bright lighting conditions something in the 25-40 range for brightness may be more suitable. You'll have to experiement with this range to see what looks best to you
*** Daylight or bright environments: You can bump the brightness to 100 if you like for just that 'pop' that will be missing a little if you follow my settings and turn it down to 25...the key 2 settings that seem to be the most impactful are setting Contrast to 100 and sRGB to On for Color Temp
2. I adjusted the Contrast to 100
3. I left DCR off - On disables brightness and contrast and the monitor dynamically adjusts the contrast but I don't think it looked better
Next adjustment was the biggest one
4. I Changed the Color Temp to sRGB (default was on 6500k)
I took photos of each Color Temp setting and all but the sRGB have the white levels blown out
You can see the guitar strings of the first pic I have circled that clearly show the Strings and the detail in the guitars without becoming white washed out and have the best contrast ratios out of all the Color Temp options IMHO
You can also see more detail in the flames etc..it may not appear to be correct as your working on it because the backbox LED's are in your face and the monitor is not in its enclosure while your adjusting the settings.
[quoted image]
Give it a try.
Again I play in a dark room, this may not be the best setup for those with bright lit game areas
I think the following pics look much better than the default settings. (The blacks are much more pronounced)
There is still some compression showing and I would really like inkier blacks but that is probably due to monitor limitations and the fact it is 1080p and not 2k/4k..
It's pinball afterall and not a home theater
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cybevenom:

Rather nice to see all that beautifull Dayne Henry Jr. art fully in the backglass. A little solder, a piece of 4000K ledstrip and an old piece of cable of a deceased pc powersupply and voila. Plug it into the spare 12V Molex connector behind the monitor and voila. Thats some nice backlit backglas around the monitor. just gotto finetune (darken it abit) around the camera area.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Drac:

Can someone please tell me who it was that's selling a lighting kit to illuminate the backglass borders that are around the display?

Quoted from Drac:

Can someone please tell me who it was that's selling a lighting kit to illuminate the backglass borders that are around the display? I'm sure I read that someone was selling this somewhere in this 178 page thread. Thanks

Quoted from Mattyk:

Thanks for posting this. I copied your settings and it looks much better. Even the photos come out better

Quoted from mbrave77:

Hrm. Neither my wonka(with recommended wifi usb card) or GnR LE will find any wifi signals. I turned off router and back on and nothing. Updated by USB so no big deal but would like to check out scorbit.
Side note- This game is great but Ive never seen more stuck balls then this game. First it was the sticks with the peeling mylar, but now the balls get stuck on the pops here and there and all the time on the Pick spinners.

Quoted from rwalters21:

Lermods sells s nice kit.

Quoted from Mattyk:

Would you be able to share some pics of the installation? This looks great

This isn’t the for sale post but a nice DIY

Quoted from fooflighter:

The only place I ever had a stuck ball in the pops was the lower one, but that was fixed with a piece of hard foam on the skirt. What is your angle of your machine? You may consider giving the back leg levelers a half or full turn past where the bubble top reaches the second line. It may allow gravity to help play more of a roll without changing the shots too much and at the same time fix your stuck balls. Also, give it some time, I’ve found all my pins had a break in period NIB and after a couple hundred plays, things just start flowing a little better, partially due to finding the shots, but also some break in for the mechanicals

Quoted from PinballGalore:

I’m thinking there should be some sort of sequence we can follow on the flippers, kind of like what you would do for an Easter egg. When the ball is stuck in the jets, you could flip 2L 3R, for example, and that would give all jets one hit to clear the ball. Much better than taking the glass off and losing that balls play.

Quoted from Drac:

Can someone please tell me who it was that's selling a lighting kit to illuminate the backglass borders that are around the display? I'm sure I read that someone was selling this somewhere in this 178 page thread. Thanks

Quoted from PinballGalore:

I’m thinking there should be some sort of sequence we can follow on the flippers, kind of like what you would do for an Easter egg. When the ball is stuck in the jets, you could flip 2L 3R, for example, and that would give all jets one hit to clear the ball. Much better than taking the glass off and losing that balls play.

Quoted from fooflighter:

How to stop the ball from getting hung in the lower jet/pop.
There is, it seems, under the recommended table angle a slight flaw which may cause repeated hangups of the ball near the lower jet and post, sort of a cradle for the ball to set in if you will
I have tried other methods and the following "fix" has been going strong over 300 games without a single ball hangup, whereas prior, would happen at least 1 time every game or every other. The only solution was to wait 20 seconds for the ball search, which eventually is not a solution as it kills your momentum, flow, and timing strategy as you advance in the game leading to frustration or tilting out as you try to nudge the machine free (which doesn't work in this situation)
I used a rubberized hard foam piece with a pretty good adhesion property (I was able to remove and repeat placement position through trial and error and still retain adhesion), commonly found at most hardware and big box home improvemnet stores, in the furniture and surface protection aisle. What matters is not the type but rather the thickness and adhesion property once applied, YMMV as to which one you get. I don't have the brand name of the one I used in particular, as I had an open bag in a junk drawer, but any button or hard foam piece will do. I prefer the circular button type as it contours more to it's final placement on the skirt. Here is the size reference I used in relation to a US Quarter
[quoted image][quoted image]
The only alteration is cutting the foam in half. We don't want to bind the skirt in any way, but rather provide a hump that either compressess the skirt to the jet firing point as it tries to rest in the v cradle of the post and skirt, and/or create a rolloff point where the ball cannot rest/balance on the post, which is why I avoinded and corners or square foam.
Here is the placement on the skirt. Notice the slight overhang. I trimmed the adhesion off on the overhang with a razor so as it wouldn't stick to the playfield surface.
[quoted image][quoted image]
You can use my photos for an approximation of placement, but depending on your machine angle, may have to vary it's position, slightly. Do a series of test placing the ball with your hand until you find the correct postion and overhang which prevent the ball from resting. This position will guarantee the jet will fire before the ball can come to rest as the skirt extension is just enough to contact the ball and fire the jet and/or allow the ball to contact the post at an angle which causes deflection out of the pops through the one way gate under the right ramp.
Here are pics showing frontal and right frontal viewing from the player perspective, lights off/on
As I've said, this solution, while crude, does really work. It can't be seen from the player perspective in most cases, and does not come off with proper adhesion, as it's not taking the force of the coil firing/ejecting the ball. I will take function over form any day, until they either provide an alternative skirt with a bump extension, or produce a different post bumper/deflector for this area.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from adrock:

If you wait about 20 seconds without touching anything, then the machine will fire the jets and it should eject the stuck ball without having to take the glass off etc.

Quoted from fooflighter:

Who's done this :
You are a carrying double digit million Jackpot and literally at the end of the song down to last ball (11k + and Paradise City with Bonus Patches) and friggin drain almost in time to the last couple notes of the song and lose it all...
Okay just one more game

Quoted from cybevenom:

Know the feeling all to well. Hold my beer and get back to me when you lose 60 million like i did. This game needs a biggest Jackpot lost picture taken at the moment of drain.

Quoted from nicoy3k:

Anyone else find that it’s harder to look at the screen on JJP games because it’s so big? It’s like everything is spread out more due to the larger size so it’s harder to see the whole picture with your peripheral. Obviously better for guests watching you play though.

Quoted from nicoy3k:

Anyone else find that it’s harder to look at the screen on JJP games because it’s so big? It’s like everything is spread out more due to the larger size so it’s harder to see the whole picture with your peripheral. Obviously better for guests watching you play though.

Quoted from zaphX:

Nah. Once you understand the UI you know immediately where to glance to get the status info you need.

Quoted from Qasper:

Also agree that the bigger screen is not helpful. I much prefer the size on the sterns for useful info. I haven't tried GnR with the smaller screen, but my favourite display placement in pinball is Cirqus Voltaire.

Quoted from nicoy3k:

Anyone else find that it’s harder to look at the screen on JJP games because it’s so big? It’s like everything is spread out more due to the larger size so it’s harder to see the whole picture with your peripheral. Obviously better for guests watching you play though.

Quoted from PinballGalore:

Yes but when you’re down to one ball in a song, and the rock o meter isn’t waiting around for those twenty seconds, you got a problem. Ask me how I know

Quoted from mbrave77:

Where exactly is the wifi dongle plugged in on the LE? Theres nothing in the usb cable by coin door

Quoted from lpgnr:

Anyone having issues with the decals on the side of the machine coming off or wrinkling? The decal on my right side is starting to wrinkle near the flipper button, which sucks
[quoted image]

Quoted from fooflighter:

How to stop the ball from getting hung in the lower jet/pop.
There is, it seems, under the recommended table angle a slight flaw which may cause repeated hangups of the ball near the lower jet and post, sort of a cradle for the ball to set in if you will
I have tried other methods and the following "fix" has been going strong over 300 games without a single ball hangup, whereas prior, would happen at least 1 time every game or every other. The only solution was to wait 20 seconds for the ball search, which eventually is not a solution as it kills your momentum, flow, and timing strategy as you advance in the game leading to frustration or tilting out as you try to nudge the machine free (which doesn't work in this situation)
I used a rubberized hard foam piece with a pretty good adhesion property (I was able to remove and repeat placement position through trial and error and still retain adhesion), commonly found at most hardware and big box home improvemnet stores, in the furniture and surface protection aisle. What matters is not the type but rather the thickness and adhesion property once applied, YMMV as to which one you get. I don't have the brand name of the one I used in particular, as I had an open bag in a junk drawer, but any button or hard foam piece will do. I prefer the circular button type as it contours more to it's final placement on the skirt. Here is the size reference I used in relation to a US Quarter
[quoted image][quoted image]
The only alteration is cutting the foam in half and then slicing off the adhesion layer on the overhang. We don't want to bind the skirt in any way, but rather provide a hump that either compressess the skirt to the jet firing point as it tries to rest in the v cradle of the post and skirt, and/or create a rolloff point where the ball cannot rest/balance on the post, which is why I avoided corners or square foam.
Here is the placement on the skirt. Notice the slight overhang. I trimmed the adhesion off on the overhang with a razor so as it wouldn't stick to the playfield surface.
[quoted image][quoted image]
You can use my photos for an approximation of placement, but depending on your machine angle, may have to vary it's position, slightly. Do a series of test placing the ball with your hand until you find the correct postion and overhang which prevent the ball from resting. This position will guarantee the jet will fire before the ball can come to rest as the skirt extension is just enough to contact the ball and fire the jet and/or allow the ball to contact the post at an angle which causes deflection out of the pops through the one way gate under the right ramp.
Here are pics showing frontal and right frontal viewing from the player perspective, lights off/on
As I've said, this solution, while crude, does really work. It can't be seen from the player perspective in most cases, and does not come off with proper adhesion, as it's not taking the force of the coil firing/ejecting the ball. I will take function over form any day, until they either provide an alternative skirt with a bump extension, or produce a different post bumper/deflector for this area.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from jalpert:

Couldn’t you guys just adjust the gap on the pop switch? Make it sensitive enough so it doesn’t get hung up?
Sounds a lot easier than sticking all this crap in your game.

Quoted from jalpert:

Couldn’t you guys just adjust the gap on the pop switch? Make it sensitive enough so it doesn’t get hung up?
Sounds a lot easier than sticking all this crap in your game.

Quoted from jalpert:

Couldn’t you guys just adjust the gap on the pop switch?

Quoted from LTG:

If the ball was resting on the skirt. Yes.
Stuck on the edge before going onto the skirt. No.
LTG : )

Quoted from jalpert:

But even if they aren’t, pop switches gapped closer together might still prevent this. I’m assuming it’s happening from bouncing slowly off a pop that isn’t firing.

Quoted from punkin:

My tech guy has tried that didn't work.