What would cause my issue of flipper dropping when it's hit, is that a faulty coil winding on the eos bit or is it just another go at getting the switch adjusted better? can't play it and it's killing me.

I feel for you mate. Buying a new game and then there is something wrong with it straight out of the box, makes my heart sink.

Every manufacturer has their issues. I am sure you will get looked after. Please let us know how you go.

My wife and I didn’t like the white acrylic guitar over the left ramp on the standard edition. First of all it was too bright but there is a setting for the LED brightness so I cut that in half. But then it was still just boring white, so using a red paint marker, I painted the bottom edge of the acrylic. It removes with two nuts. When I make it to a store I am going to get a red plastic film to make it more red.

It’s already much more pleasing on the eye than the bare bright white even with the brightness turn down it wasn’t very attractive.

3FD88DC4-0EDA-49B8-8DA6-110C9BFBF202 (resized).jpegCD94DD04-8F84-4B3A-B0DC-A9B4DFD42A3C (resized).jpegCDE0BB00-BF1F-49A5-A0F6-69CBA15EBAE9 (resized).jpeg

All good, i expect these things to have an issue after travelling half way round the world. Just would like to know how to fix it.

Check your EOS switch gapping.

In switch test mode, manually move the flipper up and see when EOS changes, do the same starting with the flipper maxed out and gradually bring it down. Then gap the EOS so it's triggered near the max position when going up or coming down.

If you adjust that and it's still dropping when hit, you may have a bad hold winding on the coil OR the transistor for the hold state may be blown on the board. I think both of those are much less likely than an EOS out of adjustment, though.

Lift the playfield and examine the flipper mechs.
There may be a loose or fallen coil stop. Look for black hex screws and lock washers in the bottom of the cabinet to reattach if so.

I just opened a ticket with JJP on exact same issue. I have checked everything and found 2 things. First the EOS switch blade was contacting the pall. I removed it and trimmed it by 1/8”. This did not help the issue but needed to be done anyway. Last (and what I believe to be the issue) is the cabinet switch. One of the tack welded contact points is either mostly broken off or was not right to begin with. I temporarily loosened the entire assembly and shifted the blades left and right so those little welded nibs make better contact. That (so far) eliminated the issue

DC419BD7-98DB-47ED-A832-49BF77F2EA36 (resized).jpeg

Was just wondering the same thing. When are LEs back on line?

Mine had the same issue. JJP will send you some rails I'm sure.

That blade gap is pretty wide. I'd bend the back one forward so it closes that gap about 50%.

Good catch .... I did that too

It’s interesting that it looks like SEs are back on the line (which I thought no one wanted) and are shipping out as early as next week. No idea what that means exactly for the production schedule as I’m pretty sure they still have CE orders to fulfill and we’ve been hearing for months that they were pumping out all the CEs at once before they switched back to LE/SE

Fucked if i know. It works for 1 ball after adjusting then fucks up a different way each time. This time it started only going up halfway every now and then and then started working only every second or third push of the button.

Switch test allows me to operate the switch, but nothing shows on the screen as working or not, just shows the wire colours.

sw2 (resized).jpg

sw3 (resized).jpg

gnr4 (resized).jpg

Yeah, it looks like the leaf closest to the flipper button post with the crappy spot weld is bending backwards when the post goes in fully. Try bending the top of that leaf forward a bit so when it tries to bend back, it ends up straightening out. Also, you could try loosening the two screws holding the switch and seeing if you can move it down just a little so the post for the button is hitting right on the crappy weld area instead of just below it. That should prevent the bending back in the first place.

Bluetooth is indeed a tad out of sync. I hear that JJP is aware and plans to address it.

While playing the game it isn't noticeable at all, so whenever they get to it is fine, there are surely more pressing aspects of their software dev that should/will come first. Give it a try, and LMK if your results are not the same as mine... (if the volume levels aren't noticeably different when you use the external volume control to set bluetooth vol vs analog.)

Where are you getting this info?

Thanks PinMonk worked for two games in a row now, so hopefully that's got it, at least i know now it IS the switch and not something else.

Two well known vendors have posted on Facebook that they are expecting some SE's in the next couple of weeks.

Paul from pinballsales.com.au just rang and told me he'd sort a new rail for me. Also asked after my flipper issue.

Good service right there.

Automated, Pinball Star and Flip N Out all posted today about receiving new SE stock next week

Suddenly noticed a constant popping/cracking sound coming from the speakers. It’s not very loud, I can only hear it during boot up/attract mode... but it’s annoying. Started after I updated to 1.14 but not sure it’s related. I am using a pin woofer kit. Has anyone noticed this?

I get a popping sound on my JP after I upgraded to pin woofer kit, but not on my other games that I upgraded to pin woofer. It only pops when I first start the game with the ball in the trough, with the audio looping through the beginning music sequence.

I'm still waiting to hear from JJP about PIF for my CE

Strange, I’ve had my pin woofer since November and this either just started or I just noticed it and it’s always been there. I updated to 1.14 and moved my game to another room... I feel like one of those two things causes it

Good luck with it all. The best help you get will come from Pinside. Some of the people on here are amazing. I am sure everyting will be fine.

Thanks, as i said earlier @viremonk talked me through the switch adjustment and then my distributor rang me and told me he'd get a new rail for me. I'm back playing (poorly).

Here is the link to this rug if people are interested.

https://inkteeshop.com/product/guns-n-roses-area-rug-amazon-best-seller-sku-2182-rug/?attribute_color=Colorful&attribute_size=Small

Screenshot_20210212-160927_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg

Paul has been great to me , he gave me parts to fix my Hobbit , when they didn't work , he came over and fixed it for free , I hadn't even brought anything off him , great to see I wasn't the exception .
I tried to pay him and he wouldn't accept it , so I gave him a Dan Murphy's voucher .
I'm more than happy to do business with him in the future , unlike my previous distributor ( Wayne) Mr pinball .

Zach at flipping out is the other one - and they are at the new hiked price by the way.

I guess since LEs are a sure thing for the long term they are switching to SE to just get them over with and out the door on this final batch and then spend the next year+ cranking out LEs

Zach at flipping out is the other one - and they are at the new hiked price by the way.
I guess since LEs are a sure thing for the long term they are switching to SE to just get them over with and out the door on this final batch and then spend the next year+ cranking out LEs</blockquote

24832EA2-AEF7-4C4D-B0A9-0AB1B51738CC (resized).jpeg

Good morning. Did anyone document the rules for GNR? I am just looking for a good rule sheet. I've seen some of the streams and have played both the LE and standard a few times. Usually I can grasp gamerules pretty quickly on my own, but for some reason I am really struggling with this one. I've gotten to a couple "mode" style parts of the game, but no clue how I achieved them.

I have a LE ordered and would love to do a little research before I get the game. I would guess I will have plenty of time for that! =)

Thanks so much

Brian

This is the one that I have been using. http://tiltforums.com/t/guns-n-roses-jjp-rulesheet/6803

Awesome!! Thanks so much...

Aaaand, it's shit itself again. Got 15 or 20 games out of it this time.

Does anyone know what switches will work in it? Like a Williams switch or something that will control the three right flippers and fit properly?

I'd like to replace the shitty switches that keep bending and going out of whack with some decent ones. I need a part number or something so i can order them here in Australia is all.

Did you try loosening and moving the switch assembly down just a little? Your button post is hitting below the crappy weld, which makes the leaf want to bend back. If you can get the post to hit more on the same area as the well, on the other side, it shouldn't bend backwards anymore.

You could also try screwing a wide pan-head screw on the end of the button post to give it more surface area where it connects the flipper switch. That may work, too.

Just got asked by JJP to pay in full for my CE. They said it would ship within 2 weeks. I know I was at the end of the CE run since I ordered shortly before it sold out. I suspect they are putting the SEs back on the line afterwards.

Edit: shipping co just called, it’s arriving Friday.

No mate, i'll have another look at it and pull it all to bits today. My eyes are not very good, plus i know little about these things.

Compare it to the other side.

LTG : )

The other side is different, it only has two bits. this side has 4 or 5 bits. But the gaps and stuff look the same to me each time i adjust it. i can't tell the difference.

I really would like to replace them with better switches that don't bend and have a proper contact pad though. I don't want to be pulling the playfield up 5 times a day.

I don't think I've seen any other complaints with that issue, so doesn't sound like a design flaw. Perhaps someone can take a photo of that area on their machine for you to compare.

Yea, I’m thinking coil stops too if the flipper isn’t holding

Here’s a few pics of mine. Hopefully this helps. Did you check your coil stops to see if they’re loose? Also check all the screws around the flipper coil housing to make sure nothings loose there either.

1F7427F7-C620-475B-B035-F4ED4579C906 (resized).jpeg

4C2CF554-DD2B-4347-995A-258C9ED780BC (resized).jpeg

4D18FB31-C76F-41EB-B0FE-2C428A1D0512 (resized).jpeg

89EA2885-7756-40A7-A670-CB43F854EEF7 (resized).jpeg

So i'm just adjusting the blade wrong and that's making it bend again after a few games? Maybe i'm just the only one to have a switch that has a dodgy blade.

Just because the problem doesn't seem to be common doesn't mean it's not a problem if i can't play my game.

Any recommendations for where to buy? Best to buy through JJP, or preorder from another vendor? Looks like 3-5 months out regardless...

IIRC this video speaks to adjusting leaf switches, how to do it without bending and damaging them, etc.

Update: total user error on my end. I had my speaker wires pinched in the backbox, happened when I moved my game.

Depends on what you are looking for. Do you need the machine delivered and installed? Do you need someone to come over and service the machine? Do you wish to trade the machine in at some point for a new game? If yes to any of these then you need a local distributor. If you dont need any of these services then order from whomever.

You're not the only one. I'm having the same issue - mine looks like one of the welded "pads" where the the switches make contact has broken off or was not welded properly. My (temporary) solution was to loosen the 2 screws that hold the switch stack and push the blades in opposing directions (they no longer line up with each other L vs R) this allowed the remaining portion of that bad weld to make much better contact with the "good" side. It's working now and I've opened a service ticket with JJP. Mine is on the left side vs yours on the right so I'm dealing with a single stack switch vs a double but issue looks similar. Frustrating I know but it will get sorted - the JJP guys are very customer focused and will take care of you.

IMG_1181 (resized).jpg

The foam prototype came in for the new kit packaging, which means the JJP Tibetan Breeze kit is getting close to release. Should be about 7-10 days out now. They are using fans that push 50% more CFM to keep the temps down more effectively. In Karl's test series the standard fan just didn't keep the temps where I wanted them (100-120F), so I had to go to a beefier fan for JJP. Finding the right balance of extra CFM and low noise was the problem, but it's good now.

JJP_Kit_600x (resized).jpg

I haven't talked to my distributor or JJP about it yet as i'd rather replace them with decent switches. I only need to know which ones to order that will fit. I mean this is the major moving part, an extra 50 cents won't break them.

might have to start pulling some of my other machines to bits to find out for myself what will substitute.

Thanks, i'll pull it to bits again shortly and see if i can find a way to dodgy it up.