Overland Park, KS
Quoted from boilerman:i found the guts for the abra head
So I assume that means the head cabinet will not be coming my way?
Mike O.
(Topic ID: 83308)
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Abra Ca Dabra
Gottlieb, 1975
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Quoted from boilerman:no mike, i have a spare head. since i will have to repaint the cabinet i will just repaint the spare head to match and you get the good one.
i am working on finding a shipping box to get it to you..
Excellent on the cabinet.
Which specific plastics are you looking for? I have the right drop target bank plastic in solid form. It is faded some.
Mike O.
2 weeks later
Quoted from hoov:He needs to provide better pics if he wants to sell it - even at his BIN.
If it was close enough to be able to pick up I would bite with the pictures he has provided.
Quoted from swampfire:What's the correct leg length for this game? Mine came with 31" legs.
31"
4 months later
Quoted from Aurich:I'm having a weird problem with my Abra Ca Dabra, the ball and game over and match lights are all off, but the rest of the backglass lights work fine. Must be a bad connection somewhere taking off that part of the chain, but I haven't found it yet. Need to trace things more carefully I guess.
With the game off, reseat the jones plug connectors to the head. That is where I would start first.
If that doesn't get it then look first in the head to the supply line that feeds those lamps and trace it for a break in the wire. You're looking for the common denominator for those strings. Could be as simple as a broken solder joint for the ground braid.
Quoted from Perspex:Wish the backglasses would get remade, not digging the flaking on mine.
They are:
http://pinballglass.homestead.com/
Run out and buy one!
Quoted from hoov:1st choice - repro from Ron & Nancy Webb or Shay Assad - great quality - as original to factory as you can get
2nd choice if 1st choice above will never be available - bgresto - their restoration process is decent
ditto.
2 years later
Quoted from Vic_Camp:Maybe I throw on one of these for the time being.
What paint are you using for those, Vic, and how well does it hold up?
1 year later
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:I do have a schematic and owners manual. The lights behind the drops aren’t moving. Just played a game and the pops are lit 100% of the time and either scoring 1000 or nothing. Being new to EM, what is best reference to look at as I dig into switch stack and relays?
There is probably an AS style relay that drives the lights above the drop targets to change. It will probably be on the bottom side of the playfield and be totally removable for maintenance via a jones plug. It is probably gummed up which is why the lights don’t index and the pop bumper doesn’t change on and off.
This is all experienced speculation as my ACD is on end in a corner of my garage. Look through what others have pointed you to regarding refubish instructions for AS relays.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Since the sheath is missing, what would be recommended to protect the bare wire?
As long as the wire doesn’t touch anything the sheath isn’t necessary. Also, it is serving as a redundant path as the adjacent wire in the picture is doing the same thing.
Quoted from boilerman:i believe i sent you one of those heads for free
You did, to replace the water damaged head cabinet on an ACD, which is not included in this photo. Thank you very much.
1 month later
Quoted from pinhead52:More Abra fun. Maybe I should have taken pictures?
[quoted image]
You should be able to do this with your eyes closed by now.
Quoted from pinhead52:My Abra day, needed to modify a plastic to fit behind the target
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice work, Ken. Will one of these be at TPF?
1 month later
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Is there anywhere to buy a complete AS Relay to do quick/easy swap with one of mine not working right?
Does anyone sell a complete rebuild kit for them?
Dave,
PBR has been the best source. They never sold a kit. And now don’t have all of the parts anymore. That said, you should be able to clean and fiddle with what you have to make it work, short of something being broken. Even with all new parts it’s not a given that it will function properly as there is adjustment you need to manage.
Take him up on it Dave.
Quoted from pinhead52:Ive got two abras im currently working on and just disassembled, clean, reassembled one. If yer desperate you could send me your AS, I'll service and send back. $7.90 small box shipping each way and maybe 20 for the tuneup
1 year later
Quoted from seshpilot:Curious, I’ve always avoided putting new repro playfield a in EMs because of the clear coating. Seems like it just wouldn’t play quite the same. I realize sometimes you don’t have a choice but for those of us with decent playfields, I’m curious: how does the Wade pf play compared to an original non-cleared playfield?
I actually have auto clear applied to Wade repro Playfields before installing them in a game. They do not play out of the normal. On the contrary, their play is exceptional and appreciated.
1 year later
Quoted from ChipS:How do you all feel?
Makes me want to get through my ACD playfield swap so I can test your opinion.
To me, Quick Draw/Fast Draw is much better set up on 3 ball. I can see ACD having the same potential.
C37 on 3 ball overcompensates and makes it too easy on 3 ball.
1 year later
Quoted from ChipS:After sitting on a Wade PF for almost four years, I'm finally doing my Abra swap. First timer. And wouldn't you know it, I've already botched the first step - swapping the guide rails! I used a rubber mallet and alternated tapping each end and the rails went in mostly straight. But some started to bow in the middle and I tried to straighten it out as best I could, but ended up scraping some of the metal guide at the bend. It doesn't look terrible, but it feels rough - and I don't want the ball to get scratched.
While I hate to remove the rail - and risk damaging a brand new playfield - I don't want to keep a rough piece of metal in a spot that the ball is going to hit repeatedly. So I need to remove the rail, fix or replace it, and re-install. Question is, can I simply polish/buff out the rough spots on the existing rail, or should I create brand new wire guides using the Marco wire bending jig? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-8593[quoted image]
The adage “The enemy of good is better.” comes to mind here. If it were me I would fine sand/polish the scarred wire guide and call it good. It is nickel plated steel, not stainless. If it still has the nubs on the embedded portion I would be all the more inclined to leave it in. I’d be afraid the nubs would lift a split on the surface.
I would take some 400 grit or 600 grit sandpaper to the rough edge. Lay down a bunch of painters tape on the playfield to protect it where it might get exposed. Only sand the rough edge. Once you have it smooth enough take some Mother’s Mag Polish to it and get as much shine as you can out of it. The whole process from start of tape masking to polished out shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes.
4 weeks later
Quoted from pinhead52:Ok here's a question for the community, I picked up a really nice original pf. Its hard for me to justify spending $1000 to have this pf restored?
The only issue I have is the sunken inserts especially on the bonus ladder. We just know the ball coming off the flippers will sooner or later start tearing up the exposed edges.
Suggestions? Im going to approach a pf guy and see if they could fill just the bonus ladder inserts (auto clear). Any attempts Ive tried will polycrylic etc ends badly. Ive also tried acrylic.
[quoted image]
Leveling the inserts and clearing it should not cost $1000. This is assuming you are foregoing any restoration. Shouldn't even be half that. Am I missing something?
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