Sharing them here for posterity.

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I have a decent original that I’m replacing with one of Wade’s reproductions. Unfortunately, I probably won’t be swapping them before next summer. If you can’t find another playfield and you have other projects you can work on, I’ll have something available the middle of next year.

It’s the playfield on the right.

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Here ya go, Andrew.

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The recommended replay thresholds seem awfully high! I’ve only played DirtFlipper’s Abra Ca Dabra and it always seemed like a hard game to score big on.

I bought yours three years ago, I think. It’s finally getting installed in the next few weeks. Did you get another game?

That looks like a good restoration candidate. pinhead52 knows someone who can fix that up for about the same amount as Wade’s repro would cost nowadays.

All the lamps in my Abra are in nice shape, so I’m keeping them original. But thanks for the offer! Gottlieb did use this style on other games, so your extras might be useful on a future project.

The cardinal sin of the half-moon credit unit’s design is its clumsy manual operation. The long nylon pawls wiggle around too much when you try to operate them by hand. They have to get pulled straight down, and only their solenoids can do that reliably. Here’s something you could try: turn the head around (so it’s facing the playfield) and use a set of jumpers to wire the flipper buttons to power the credit unit. One flipper button increments, the other decrements. Then dial it in.

Ever since they splintered the ply on some of my earlier restoration projects, those burrs/cleats/studs at the bottom of Gottlieb rails have been my sworn enemy. Now I pound the rails through the bottom of the playfield (their holes go straight through) and then grind off these barbed menaces with a Dremel. They serve no purpose whatsoever. Good riddance.

Not necessary. Wade prints the clear before drilling the final holes. The holes are the perfect size for accepting the guides—if you get rid of those studs on the bottom.

You’re not alone. I had a devil of a time getting these tubes out. Pulling them straight out doesn’t work. Rocking and twisting does the trick, but they will resist like hell before finally yielding the first bit of motion. Once they yield, however, you then have leverage and they start coming out easier.

They don’t like going back in, either! Fortunately they are made of pretty tough stuff and can absorb blows from a hammer without taking damage.

Good luck! You’ll get them out.

I just ordered my first 3D printer. When it arrives, I’m going to print some tubes with matte white PLA. This will light up the targets more, help disperse the light under the plastics, mitigate their shadows, and make the tubes look less conspicuous. The damn things look like toilet paper rolls.