I recently joined the ACD club and am in the process of rebuilding the pop bumpers. Figured that while I was at it I'd go ahead and replace the bumper bodies and skirts, since the old ones were pretty dirty. I ordered all new parts from PBR but noticed some color discrepancies.

The first photo shows the bumper bodies side-by-side, with the skirts next to them. The old bumper body and skirt seem to be the same color green, but the new skirt is a much-lighter green than the new body.

The second photo shows the new bumper body, skirt and rollover guide - these are all "green" according to PBR. The rollover guide seems to be the same green as the bumper body, but it is not a match for the skirt.

The third photo shows the old bumper skirt and rollover guide. The old rollover guide doesn't seem to be an exact match for the skirt color.

The final photo shows the two skirts; new one is on the left. It is labelled part #C-10433 C while the old skirt is numbered C-10433 B. Does anyone know what the "B" stands for? My first thought was blue or black, but clearly, it is neither of those colors.

PBR identifies the skirt they sent me as A1218G Green, which they point out is the same as Gottlieb part C-10433. But the green is clearly not the same color. (PBR also has another skirt labelled as "Dark Green" but I spoke with them and they said that color is definitely not a match for the Green Bumper body. The dark green is only for one specific game (I forget which one - not ACD).

Marco also sells the bumper skirt #C-10433 and the green on their website looks darker, but that color may vary. (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-10433-G)

Has anyone else purchased the green bumper bodies and skirts for their games? Have you found ones that match the original? I'd like to get as close as I can to the original colors.

ACD_BumperBodiySkirt01 (resized).jpg

ACD_BumperBodiySkirtRollover_PBR01 (resized).jpg

ACD_BumperBodiySkirt03 (resized).jpg

ACD_BumperBodiySkirt02 (resized).jpg

Regarding the Green Bumper bodies and skirts: I've taken a look around the internet and found other examples of Abra Ca Dabra games that appear to have the same mismatched green bumper bodies and skirts. The one from Pinball Pimp seems to be a completely restored game. The one from pinrepair also seems to have been recently restored.

ACD owners: can you take a look at your bumper bodies/skirts? If you still have the originals, do the bodies and skirt green colors match? Has anyone found matching colors in new bodies/skirts?

Abra-Ca-Dabra_Pinball Pimp (resized).jpg

abraca5 (from Pinrepair) (resized).jpg

Thanks, Woz! Yes, my original ones also match. But they're extremely dirty and I want to replace them. Trying to find out if anyone else has found the new parts that match.

As I mentioned (and show in the photos) the bodies and skirts from PBR are different shades of green. Has anyone purchased the bumper skirt from Marco? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-10433-G Is that green a closer match to the bumper body?

Wanted to kickstart this thread...

When I played pinball as a kid (back in the 70's) I didn't understand the difference between 3 and 5-ball mode except for the number of balls. (There was no way to compare the instructions for different modes.) Now that I am older and wiser, I realize there are subtle, but significant difference between the two modes.

I LOVE Abra Ca Dabra, but I especially love it in 3-ball mode. IMO, it's much easier to set it up for a "Specials Bonanza" because of the ability to advance the bonus by simply knocking down one set of drop targets - and then hitting the center target. With only three balls to play, there is little room for error, but when you have a big game, it can be really BIG. There is nothing finer in pinball then getting to 5,000 bonus, dropping both sets of drop targets, then hitting the center "Special" target and hearing the double knocker. BANG, BANG!

In contrast, 5-ball play can a bit laborious and there are even times when you have the ball saved on the flipper and you have nothing to shoot for. (e.g. the left target bank is down, as are the #1 and 2 rollovers and the ball is saved on the right flipper). That's never the case with 3-ball. There's always something to shoot for.

How do you all feel?

Leckmeck - I'm also finally installing my Wade Abra PF. Back on page 10 (Post #454) Pinhead52 says:

I recently ordered these sockets from Surplussales.com - in fact, they arrived yesterday. They were $1.07 each, but the minimum order was $25, so I ended up buying 24 - enough for three Abra playfields. Not sure if they are used on any other Gottlieb game. I figured I might someday find someone else who might need them. If you have not ordered them, you're welcome to one of my extra sets. Just PM me your address.

Pinhead52's photos didn't carry over - but you can check post #454 to see the sockets.

After sitting on a Wade PF for almost four years, I'm finally doing my Abra swap. First timer. And wouldn't you know it, I've already botched the first step - swapping the guide rails! I used a rubber mallet and alternated tapping each end and the rails went in mostly straight. But some started to bow in the middle and I tried to straighten it out as best I could, but ended up scraping some of the metal guide at the bend. It doesn't look terrible, but it feels rough - and I don't want the ball to get scratched.

While I hate to remove the rail - and risk damaging a brand new playfield - I don't want to keep a rough piece of metal in a spot that the ball is going to hit repeatedly. So I need to remove the rail, fix or replace it, and re-install. Question is, can I simply polish/buff out the rough spots on the existing rail, or should I create brand new wire guides using the Marco wire bending jig? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-8593

Ball Guide Rail Scuff (resized).jpg

There's no additional clearcoat.

I don't need to pre-drill the holes - Wade put the holes there. And I put the guide rails in those holes and scuffed them up in the process. Now I want to take them out and either polish the rough spots or replace the rails with new ones. Trying to figure out which will work out best. Obviously, the trick is removing them without damaging the PF.

Thanks! I thought Vid1900 (and of pinhead52) recommended pre-drilling the holes if you clearcoated it, because the clear would run into the holes. I didn't clear mine, and the holes seemed to be pretty clean, so I didn't drill.

Does anyone know if the Gottlieb rails are plated with anything or simply stainless steel? Can I simply sand/polish the nicked-up rail and replace it? I've seen other threads where people make new rails using the wire bending jig from Marco. Any suggestions on which process is easier/better?

So do you re-drill all of the holes Wade puts on his playfields? Does everyone do this?

Yes, I'm hoping Ken will weigh in on this issue.

I agree - the do serve no purpose and made it harder to install into the new playfield. I should have shaved them off before I started. Lesson learned!

That being said, I removed the rails from my old Abra playfield without damaging the areas around the holes, so I'm optimistic that I'll be able to remove them without screwing up Wade's beautiful work. Fingers crossed!

Still trying to figure out the best path forward: Sand/polish the existing (but scuffed) rails or create new ones? Has anyone made new Gottlieb rails using Marco's jig and new wire?

Ken - did you (or someone else) clearcoat that Wade playfield? I bought mine in 2019 from Wade; I'm assuming he was only doing his lacquer coats then. Do you drill out the rail holes on ALL Wade playfields, even the ones that aren't cleared?

Also, any advice on what to do with the scuffed spots on my rails? Remove and polish? Or fashion new ones?

Sand/polish it while it is in the new playfield? (The photo I posted above is the rail installed in my new Wade PF.)

I can live with imperfection. I'm just concerned that the rough surface of the rail may end up scuffing the ball while in play, which I don't want. Or is that unlikely to occur?

Gotcha. My playfield isn't cleared. So do I still need to re-drill the wire guide holes? Have you ever installed a non-cleared Wade playfield? If so, did you re-drill those holes?

Obviously, it's too late for me to do that. But I am curious. I get that the clear can run into the holes and you re-drill to clear that. But is that necessary on a non-cleared Wade playfield?

Thanks, Leckmeck! That was what I figured.

Any suggestion on what I should do at this point? If the guide wires are nickel plated, then sanding the rough spot may simply remove more of that plating. Removing them and replacing with new guides runs the risk of damaging the playfield.

Do I just hope the rough spot on the rail doesn't cause pits on the ball?

Thanks! Any thoughts on what I should do now? Gently remove the guides and replace with new ones? Or sand/polish the old ones? Although if they are nickel-plated, sanding the rough spot will likely remove more plating. Or just pretend like nothing happened and hope the rough spot on the rail doesn't scuff up the ball? (The rough spot is right on the corner at the top of the #1 lane, so it's gonna get hit by the ball a lot.)

Thank you for the suggestion! I will give it a shot and let you know how it goes!

Ken - Do you have a trick for removing the light tubes behind the drop targets? After almost fifty years there, mine don't seem to wanna come out of their holes. I don't wanna crush them.

Glad to hear I'm not the only one! I'm half tempted to simply fashion some new tubes that are an easier fit for the holes. After all, their only purpose is to focus the light on the spot. Then I don't have to worry about getting the old ones out of hammering new ones into the new PF.

Funny - I was thinking the exact same thing! My daughter had a 3-D printer and made me some of the half-posts that hold up the clear plastic at the entrance to the Atlantis bagatelle. (One of mine was broken and PBR didn't carry them.) Unfortunately, she sold her 3-D printer.

Was gonna order 3-D printed tubes from an online vendor, but decided to try some acrylic rigid tubing from Amazon first: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D7WP455 It's clear, so I'll have to paint the outside of the tube to prevent light leakage and enhance the appearance. Or perhaps wrap it with an Avery label.

The tube is 18mm OD, which appears to be the same diameter as the holes. It arrives today so I'll let you know if it fits.

Those red tubes look TERRIFIC! Matches the red on the plastic above it, and also looks great when they light up!

If my acrylic tubing doesn't work out, would you be willing to make another set? I'll pay, of course.

Scottopus - here's another option: My acrylic tubing from Amazon arrived this afternoon and it is the PERFECT diameter for the playfield holes - it slides through with just the slightest bit of wiggle room. You get two 12" long pieces, which will yield a total of sixteen 1.5" long tubes, for $15.

Here's the link again: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D7WP455 Make sure you order the 14mm x 18mm. (The 14 mm is the inner diameter; 18mm is the outer diameter. The light tube holes in the playfield also measure 18mm)

I'm going to use my PVC pipe cutter to cut them and will then paint them red.