The lower lane guides are transparent red. The ones up top are opaque green. They still light up, but you can't see through them when the light is off, the red ones you can.

I'm having a weird problem with my Abra Ca Dabra, the ball and game over and match lights are all off, but the rest of the backglass lights work fine. Must be a bad connection somewhere taking off that part of the chain, but I haven't found it yet. Need to trace things more carefully I guess.

Thanks. I'll add them to my next pbr order.

The upper green playfield plastics are only available with double sides. If you think it is needed, the one side can be trimmed off. The double sided fits with no problem. Purchase a full set, as these new ball guides will not match your original ball guides. The new ones will be a slightly different shade of green and the top surface may not have the identical shapes.

With the game off, reseat the jones plug connectors to the head. That is where I would start first.

If that doesn't get it then look first in the head to the supply line that feeds those lamps and trace it for a break in the wire. You're looking for the common denominator for those strings. Could be as simple as a broken solder joint for the ground braid.

Wish the backglasses would get remade, not digging the flaking on mine.

They are:

http://pinballglass.homestead.com/

Run out and buy one!

Yeah, the Webb back glass looks great, I have one in my machine.

I did order the last one a while ago, but was told it busted getting ready for shipping. I'll have to wait to see if they ever get done again.

That's what we're saying, they were done again. Mine is from the batch that was just finished.

Ron's usually pretty good on keeping his website updated if he has glasses in stock. Abra is still showing as available, so might be worth checking again.

I'll send him a request, great news if he has stock!

Seems odd that Ron would do another run of ACD glasses and not inform you if he was not able to fulfill your original request.

This Abra repro backglass that Ron has available right now is superior quality - I just received mine last month.

How's that compare to BGResto? Seems like a similar price. Any difference in quality or "maintenance"?

I've never seen a BGResto glass, and I'm sure they're great if you can't get a real screened one, but for me I'm going to take an actual screened glass over anything digital every day of the week if given a choice.

1st choice - repro from Ron & Nancy Webb or Shay Assad - great quality - as original to factory as you can get

2nd choice if 1st choice above will never be available - bgresto - their restoration process is decent

Thanks for the info.

ditto.

Abra makes buzz sound when any 1234 rollover is held down...1234 relay bank buzzes. Normal? Scores normal

I believe it's normal, checked mine today, it does that as well and everything is adjusted correctly.

Thanks...couple people have weighed in saying the same. Pretty harsh sound regardless.

Another question:

1234 rollovers advance bonus--I'm getting a successful advance about 50% time. Now the CENTER target that advances bonus/resets targets advances bonus 100% time. The adv bonus relay looks good and am I correct to assume the center target has to go through the adv bonus relay? SO, what am I looking at in the 1234 relay bank/rollovers? Is there a separate switch on adv bonus relay for the 1234's that is different than the switch for CENTER target that I should focus on?

Thanks

I would start there. Each trip relay has a switch that needs to contact to complete the sequence. Those can be a bit hard to diagnose since you need to open up the swing out mech. to see them and manually trip each one. Also can buzz these out with a meter to make sure they are actually making good contact. Since it works some of the time, that would likely be the source of trouble. If they are are all working perfectly, check the rest of the circuit on it's way to the bonus advance relay.

How do you swing it out? Do you take out the screws that attach it to bottom of playfield or is it something with the wingnuts and other bolts?

It works a way higher % when I have the playfield up. The switches look good as far as opening and closing. It almost looks like the "bar" that drops as each one is tripped until both sides are released to force the middle "no coil" switches to reset, is not staying "down" with enough force or "long enough" to let it fully advance. It looks like there is ONE spring(?) in the middle of that bar that pulls it when/as all the relays are tripped. Wondering if I check out that spring--replace or shorten it to up the tension a bit?

Yes, the wing nuts on the sides. Just loosen them up, no need to remove them. The whole thing will swing out to access the switch banks better (though still need good eyes, white business card behind them helps too).

Had to loosen the other bolts(at pivot point) a hair after the wing nuts...those bolts supposed to be tight or a little loose?

Switches all look good. Everything looks like it's functioning. I shortened the center spring for that bar and I'm getting a higher % now...maybe 75% advances bonus. I'll keep playing with it but I can't see anything else wrong.

Thanks for the info

pivot bolts should be just a tad loose to allow for maint. access. sounds like you are getting better at the detective work. trial and sometimes error is often the best way to learn.

OK my earlier estimate was high. It's still 50/50 or worse. With playfield up it's 9/10 easy...that suggests ?gravity? is the cure? This is driving me crazy. I can't watch it operate with the playfield down to check what would be happening different.

With the playfield in the down position, sometimes the reset bar encounters an interference point that goes away when the playfield is up, or the mech is swung out. There's an adjustment to the 'stop' position of the reset bar that can be lowered a bit, so that the bar is able to go down farther.

Thanks again. Spotted the adjustment. Changed it from a parallel position so it had more travel. Still getting mixed results. Here are a few pics in various states:

ACD 001.JPG

ACD 002.JPG

ACD 003.JPG

ACD 004.JPG

ACD 005.JPG

ACD 006.JPG

ACD 007.JPG

The contacts might benefit from a bit more burnishing. I see some carbon spots still.

So you've checked continuity thru the whole circuit that feeds the bonus advance? If you can make it not register when it's suppose to, I would start jumping past the switches one at a time. Perhaps you missed something, or a wire is compromised? That's the only way to be 100% sure.

advance bonus G also ties with the 500 point relay F
haven't really followed this thread but just fixed the advance bonus not advancing issue on a buddies ACD it was the N.O. switch between G & F

acd 2.jpg

Thanks for the heads up. Would that hold true if the center target advances bonus 100% time? Are you talking about an NO on the adv. bonus relay or 500 point relay? The NO on E?

Me too now that I look at the pics...hit them all again, nice and shiny(I'm always afraid of over-doing it). Still getting 50/50 results.

I checked cont. through the 1234, all check out. The rollover sequence completed center--no coil orange/green wire looks like the only one going to adv bonus relay(that sound correct?) and that checks out.

OK. I think I've made a semi-breakthrough. I ran through this about 15 times and the vast majority of the time when the bonus does NOT advance, one of the rollovers scored the bonus "early". You are supposed to get 500,500,500, Score Bonus plus Advance right? When it's not advancing that is out of order in some way(different every time). So maybe 500, BONUS, 500, 500 no advance...it's completely random but it seems that the bonus is getting scored out of order and that "may" throw it off? Again, the center target scores bonus fine. When the game scores 500,500,500, bonus it seems to (almost every time) advance bonus correctly. Also, again usually works with playfield up. So that points to...?

I would think one of the trip bank switch stacks is adjusted incorrectly. Could be totally off base, but would focus on that until I was 100% sure that's not it.

The 1234's all trip correctly, and when the last one is tripped, the bar across all 4 of them is pulled in on center No Coil switches which triggers reset. That seems to work. The bonus scoring incorrectly can happen (with playfield down) on any rollover--in any spot in the order--so it doesn't seem like the No Coil Reset Completed Switches are doing anything incorrect since it doesn't reset early.

I'm not sure what switches determine whether the rollover scores normal 500 or the "completed" sequence bonus amount...something triggering the L or whatever the 1000's is. I assumed that would be from the No Coil area switches but if it happens early in sequence it couldn't be those since they aren't changed until all 4 rollovers drop the bar and change switches.

Sagging switches with playfield down....come on. Resolved. Thanks for all the input

Posted this in the parts for sale section, but posting here as is relevant and not sure if everyone reads over there...

Have good used pop bumper bodies/caps and drops from Abracadabra f/s. Went new when Pinball Pimp did my cabinet and playfield.

$25 shipped in USA, will also ship to Australia for actual cost.

MSG if interested. Thx!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-abra-ca-dabra-drop-targets-and-pop-bodies-caps-good-used

Anyone have a ACD playfield for sale? My clear coat after 2 years went from clean and nice to dark brown. It use to be in a dark room, then recently went into a hot bright room. No idea if that made it turn, no idea what happened. Well, the varnish was crap. That's what happened. It was supposed to be a UV clear varnish. When I bought the can, the varnish was transparent. Now, even what I have left over in the can has turned dark brown.

I was able to scrape off a majority of the coating, but far too much ink/wood is being damaged. I will try and continue to strip it and then re-paint the entire thing. But, that will be so damn time consuming. My other idea, since I am an illustrator. I sand down the entire playfield and put my own twist to the theme. If, I can't find a new playfield, my paint job fails and/or I don't sand it down and re-theme it. I may give it away for free, but I am keeping the reproduction backglass.

I have a friend who's selling an Abra Ca Dabra at PAGG, has a pretty nice playfield, but a faded backglass. If you already have a repro glass you could put together a clean machine from it.

Hmm, tempting. I guess it depends how much?

Not sure. He's bringing it up from SoCal Thursday night, so will be there at the beginning of the show.

Would you be able to ask him? If it is reasonable I may/will take it.

He's on Pinside, he'll PM you.

Well, the good news. I tried another method and I am now able to get that yellowed clear off. Will still require re-painting. But its now doable.

Im looking for a Playfield. If anyone has one for sale please let me know.

Got my Abra Ca Dabra up and runningIMG_5785.JPG

If Abra Ca Dabra had 2 inch flippers and a small post between the flippers would it be a much more brutal game?