I have a Spirit of 76 that came wired sorta like that. They took the "Add Replay" signal and used it to trigger the Extra Ball Feature. It was easier to do, obviously, because S76 already has the Extra Ball feature and they just added another trigger.

On your machine, they've either added a relay to cut off the "Add Ball Count" signal and/or are using the Credit Unit in some creative way. Sounds like a fun project to figure out what they did! Let us know if you want help figuring it out.

I'm pretty positive that the schematic will still be accurate regarding the target lights. Pop bumper scoring/lights are controlled by the same unit as the target scoring and lights - the AS type, "I" Relay. I'd think that logic will be unchanged.

I had an Abra that someone had modified to an AAB just like this one. There are added wires on the second chute unit, ball count unit, and credit unit. I may have pictures saved somewhere, but the credit unit acts as a break in the circuit for the ball count unit to “turn off” and it communicates to the 2nd chute to kick a ball after it drains.....If I’m remembering the loop correctly

I'd like to convert my Abra Ca Dabra to an AAB... following.
Thanks
RK

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/119780

Abra for sale.

Really nice.

Still kicking myself for missing out on a nice Abra ca Dabra 2 hrs away on eBay awhile back because I made my final bid 20 seconds too early.

Thanks. I lost out on Ebay items the same way. Getting outbid with one second left in the auction seems to happen a lot.

Why don’t they extend the auction like how real live auctions are run? I NEVER understood that.

Placing an order with PBR for Abra. My game is missing the red tent/pyramid style inlane ball guides by the flippers. Does anyone know the referenced part number for them?

I think you need the 2-1/2” variety, but measure the distance between the holes to be sure. C15648R.
http://www.pbresource.com/rollover.htm

xx

I did pick up a Wade Abra pf and a slightly better than average bg. PM if interested. I also have some reproduction plastics as well.

Here's a pf we had cleared by Keith Holbrook, came out gorgeous.

285528236_750592386415338_7945753386509329330_n (resized).jpg

Looking for the large plastics that go over the drop banks.

Wanted to kickstart this thread...

When I played pinball as a kid (back in the 70's) I didn't understand the difference between 3 and 5-ball mode except for the number of balls. (There was no way to compare the instructions for different modes.) Now that I am older and wiser, I realize there are subtle, but significant difference between the two modes.

I LOVE Abra Ca Dabra, but I especially love it in 3-ball mode. IMO, it's much easier to set it up for a "Specials Bonanza" because of the ability to advance the bonus by simply knocking down one set of drop targets - and then hitting the center target. With only three balls to play, there is little room for error, but when you have a big game, it can be really BIG. There is nothing finer in pinball then getting to 5,000 bonus, dropping both sets of drop targets, then hitting the center "Special" target and hearing the double knocker. BANG, BANG!

In contrast, 5-ball play can a bit laborious and there are even times when you have the ball saved on the flipper and you have nothing to shoot for. (e.g. the left target bank is down, as are the #1 and 2 rollovers and the ball is saved on the right flipper). That's never the case with 3-ball. There's always something to shoot for.

How do you all feel?

Makes me want to get through my ACD playfield swap so I can test your opinion.

To me, Quick Draw/Fast Draw is much better set up on 3 ball. I can see ACD having the same potential.

C37 on 3 ball overcompensates and makes it too easy on 3 ball.

Could someone let me know or take a picture of the posts used under the centre plastic (the two that hold the clear plastic underneath)

I have the metal screws but the posts seem wrong.

(metal post screws are there to hold the plastics for the photo...I know they go in further...)

IMG_3957 (resized).jpeg

it is a split post on both. You have the correct screws. I do have replacement plastics if you need one.

Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. The replacement plastic holes were too small for the posts so the previous owner did without! Drilled a slightly larger hole, found another split post and it's back together beautifully. Their fix also included a longer rubber so removed that now that the clear plastic is properly installed and the ball rides up to the 2 and 3 nicely from the playfield.

Ta.

yea I always have to drill those out...

Just got an Abracadabra
It is stuck on free play and I want to site it
Could someone please take a photo of the 2nd chute relay for me
Mine has a few wires that have been unsoldered
Thanks

BF111AE5-0773-459B-B1C3-F75A8F3E9A09 (resized).jpeg

Hi everyone...I've had my ACD for about a year and I noticed recently the serial # stamped into the side of the head is 'P20'

It doesn't have any other 'normal' looking 4 or 5 digit serial numbers anywhere on the head but the certificate attached to the top left corner of pf has the number 4522. (See pics)

I can't find any info on this online and the serial # data base doesn't have any P style numbers listed.

I just noticed that the rollover divider plastics appear different on my game as well then the other pf pictures I see.

Could this be a prototype of some sort? Anyone know anything about this? Or have any leads or info on where to find out?

Thanks!

UPDATE: it does have the same serial # stamped into the front of the cab below the coin door...and also painted on top of the head...as what is on the certificate...04522 (See pics)

But also has P20 stamped into the side of the head and also the front of cab below shooter...

Wondering what the P20 might mean?

20230405_083531 (resized).jpg20230405_120243 (resized).jpg20230405_124626 (resized).jpg20230405_115806 (resized).jpg20230405_083440 (resized).jpg

20230405_083455 (resized).jpg

20230405_083451 (resized).jpg

20230405_083531 (resized).jpg

20230405_083504 (resized).jpg

20230405_083508 (resized).jpg

Ive reproduced the two small lower plastics as well as the upper lower middle one, reach out if you want replacements

I've joined the club and couldn't be happier. Went from not having any machines to having two wedgeheads (Slick Chick & Abra Ca Dabra) within two weeks. Slick Chick was 12 miles away purchased first and the Abra Ca Dabra was 43 miles. ACD has some EM issues that I'm working on one at time but it does "play". The backglass has a little loss a couple of places along the top, the cabinet was redone but at amateurish level, and playfield is pretty good but has an issue where it appears the finish has been sanded away. Any suggestion on how I should deal with this missing finish?

MicrosoftTeams-image (3) (resized).png

Easiest/safest solution is a product from Minwax called "Wipe On Poly", you dab some product on a cloth then carefully hit the bare area only...

And I may have a backglass solution for you, send me a PM.

Ken

Joining the club...I got my first machine a week or so ago...a beautiful ACD, totally redone with LEDs, new rubbers, beautiful playing field and replacement backglass (also have the original which has the typical peeling on the wizard). Plays like a dream...a few minor issues cropping up from time to time, but most just take a bit of cleaning of contacts and such. It is SUCH an addicting machine!

One issue...the match feature is turned off...no match number displays at the end of the game, nothing. I've read countless posts, gone thru the schematics, searched thru the machine, and am at a bit of a loss (knowing I'm totally new to this). I think I need to find the F Relay (00-90 unit) but am having no luck. Can someone take a pic of where it's located and how I might get the match feature back on? Not a big deal, it's on free play, but always fun to hear that "CLACK" at the end of a game .

The match number is controlled by an AS relay in the head. Looks basically like this:

gottliebstepper (resized).jpg

BUT. Before taking it out, apart and beginning a life long hatred for working on AS relays....

If it's already working - it should click and advance each time a 10 point switch is hit - then leave it be. At the end of your games - is a more or less random match number lit? Then it's probably doing it's job.

Look here first instead.

Slide your 10s reel out. There should be 11 (I think) wires connected to that reel along one side.. One for each number 0-9 and an 11th common wire. Check that wire. If it happens to break - the match won't work. Had the exact thing happen on my Jacks Open and it was one of the quickest easiest repairs I've ever had.
Check that "C" in the corner of your 10s reel.
116043201_3783185865030354_7023955216016290048_n (resized).jpg

Edit - re-reading your post and I see that you state no match number lights at all. Check those connections on the 10s reel regardless just in case, but if you're getting no match lights at all - someone way better at it than me will hopefully be along soon enough. May very well be a similar common wire situation. At the very least - the relay should be connected in the head by it's own jones plug - being able to pull it out entirely to work on it is kinda nice even if they're finicky bastards.

A lot of times the F relay is removed, check the head and see if its there, should be with the scoring relays. A quick check of the diagram shows the match lamp is driven off the game over lamp circuit. If you have the "Game over" lamp you may be missing the F, ie two empty jones sockets in the head. (These can be fabricated, Ive made about a dozen over the years)

Case in point - Ken immediately thinks of something even more obvious - if the relay is just not there.

But borrowing an image from this thread - it's the relay highlighted here.
f-relay (resized).jpg

LOL...well, at least I'm not going blind! I thought the relay would be easy to find but was having no luck...so I looked where the pic shows the unit should be. Ken called it...just an empty bracket spot. Hmmmmm...so now I have to decide if I don't care or want to try and source a unit. Would be nice to find a "plug and play" that I can just drop in and plug in the jones sockets. The search begins...

I can build one (I do have an abra). These AS relays are getting harder to find... I'll offer $175 for a tested drop in unit. Since you is that looney money its going to be an ouchie. if you just want the pieces (AS relay, 2 jones plugs) I can check my stock

here's one on ebay, one sided, would need to add the other. The white little gear is the valued piece, they can/do get chewed up...

ebay.com link: itm

Sent you a PM

For some reason, ACD has been kicking my butt lately. It's been weeks since I've light the special light but I did tonight. I didn't get\hit the special but enjoyed seeing it lit.. I hope the tide is turning but find it so interesting how you can get "worse" at ACD.

received_338329905300785 (resized).jpeg

your 5000 insert loose ?

There are a couple of inserts that are loose on the PF. My plan is to glue them back in place when I can open up the windows.

Any suggestion on type or brand of glue and method?

My current plan is to apply a small amount Gorilla Wood Glue to the PF opening, placing insert into opening, align insert, place a weight (not sure what to use here), and allow it to dry.

a good quality wood glue, my choice is titebond 2 or 3. if they dont sit flat you may want to sand them with 400 grit. you should probably sand the sides anyway, glue loves roughness for bite. I like to use a straight edge to eyeball the levelness. but yea weighing them down is not the best

Could someone take a picture of the face of their advance unit? None of my bonus lights are lighting (despite scoring properly), and I’m thinking it has something to do with the white-black(?) wire that’s detached. I can’t figure out where it’s supposed to go. Any help is appreciate.

Thanks!

IMG_7421 (resized).jpeg

Do you have a wire on the lug of the coil? A lot of times these get knocked off. (Notice a jumper to a screw? This means there needs to be a lead on a coil mounting lug)

Yes. The coil works/advances properly, as both lugs have a wire soldered to it. I think I have it figured out, but it seems janky: I screwed that loose wire under a screw on the top face of the stepper. Seems to be working, and all the lights now work, but it doesn't seem right.

When I say lug, I meant mounting lug of the coil, ie the frame of the stepper. You found a spot but normally an eyelet under one of the hex screws that mount the coil...

Ah! Makes sense. Thank you!

Hope these are helpful. If not please let me know
MicrosoftTeams-image (3) (resized).png
MicrosoftTeams-image (4) (resized).png
Bonus1 (resized).png
Bonus2 (resized).png

Thank you! Perfect photos. I had that wire incorrectly placed. Corrected!

I need to replace my playfield. Are there any Wade Abra playfields for sale?

IMG_5089 (resized).jpg

IMG_5093 (resized).jpg

IMG_5097 (resized).jpg

I bought yours three years ago, I think. It’s finally getting installed in the next few weeks. Did you get another game?

That looks like a good restoration candidate. pinhead52 knows someone who can fix that up for about the same amount as Wade’s repro would cost nowadays.

Already offered up my pf resource... and by the by I have an extra set of rescue plastics as well as a mini (lowers) set if anybody is in need.

Leckmeck - I'm also finally installing my Wade Abra PF. Back on page 10 (Post #454) Pinhead52 says:

I recently ordered these sockets from Surplussales.com - in fact, they arrived yesterday. They were $1.07 each, but the minimum order was $25, so I ended up buying 24 - enough for three Abra playfields. Not sure if they are used on any other Gottlieb game. I figured I might someday find someone else who might need them. If you have not ordered them, you're welcome to one of my extra sets. Just PM me your address.

Pinhead52's photos didn't carry over - but you can check post #454 to see the sockets.

It always figures after you sell a part, you end up needing it in the future. Oh well, can't keep it all. I am going through the machine now and plan on using it as is, or until a "Wade" PF becomes available.
Completely broke down the motor board and underside of the playfield. Everything cleaned and polished. The machine was owned by the same owner since 1980. Only 30,000 plays, but the pf wasn't cared for.

All the lamps in my Abra are in nice shape, so I’m keeping them original. But thanks for the offer! Gottlieb did use this style on other games, so your extras might be useful on a future project.