Seems like every warm LED has varying amounts of that sickly blue color included in the spectrum. Maybe it's just something about LEDs that you can never completely get rid of, or at least they haven't yet. It's most apparent to me under white inserts or white lamp shields.

I pick and choose with the warm whites. I used extra bright ones on the entire GI on my Black Hole game (very dark, blue and white artwork) and I think they look wonderful. Tried them behind some 90s translites, it made them look washed out and dull so went back to regular lamps. With EMs I guess I'm more of a stickler for the authentic look and have only used LEDs very sparingly for special circumstances. I also like to stick with 44 and 555 lamps that were originally used in the games, not the dimmer versions.

The white ones are at least improving though. I have a few very old 'white' LEDs (the ones with the solid, foggy envelope with the LED sealed inside it), very weak and so much of that cold blue color they almost look like a weak purple.

As for the 60hz AC flicker in LEDs in EMs that some people can see and some can't... would it help the GI at least if *NON* non-ghosting LEDs were used there? Since they wouldn't be cutting off totally at 2 to 3 volts, wouldn't that make the flicker 'off' part shorter and less noticeable?

Also there are the Flux LEDs that have a capacitor in them that keep the LED 'on' a little bit even when they are off but I haven't tried them or know how much they would improve 60hz AC flicker, and they cost a little more.

What's weird is I can have a bunch of warm whites together in a lightboard and yeah they look okay and 'warm', but if I take one out and replace it with a 44, the 44 doesn't look more yellow or orange next to them, it actually looks reddish. But when looking at 44s by themselves they all just look, you know, yellow. As if you'd only have to put just a *little* bit of red tint in the LED lens to get it closer but I'm sure it would take some tinkering. That's the true test of these warm LEDs, put a 44 right next to one.

If I look at some of my various warm whites, it appears they already do use a tinting of sorts - it's like yellow paint or coating on the surface of the individual LEDs. The warmer it is, the more yellow the coating is. As opposed to say a blue or green one where the particular LED itself is creating the color.

There's a huge thread in here about crazy LED jobs that are just awful. I've never actually seen one in person and I have thought about doing one of my games all colored up with blues and purples and greens too, just to see how horrible it really is but I'm too lazy to try it. And I only have some blue and green leds anyway

One little trick I did with LEDs on an EM -- on my ‘75 Fast Draw I have all 44s but I changed the ten bonus light inserts to warm standard LEDs. The game has Gottlieb’s ‘rapid-fire’ bonus countdown where regular lamps barely have time to light up at all because the count goes so quick, always thought it looked duddy, virtually invisible. With instant LEDs the effect is tons better, you can actually SEE the countdown!

I did need to add a resistor between those lamps’ common ground frame and it’s ground wire to eliminate visible flickers of the LEDs from parasitic wiring voltages when coils were firing off, which reduced their brightness just a bit but still look as bright as 44s/47s.