(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 5,430 posts
  • 489 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Jarbyjibbo
  • Topic is favorited by 254 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (2 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (5 months ago)

Post #5383 LOTR documentation for silicone rings and LEDs Posted by Daditude (8 days ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1895 2 years ago

I just got a LOTR and installing a speaker kit. Does anyone know where to buy the ring design that attaches to the speaker grill. The one ring design in each grill. Not the 2 rings looped together.

#1898 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I bought 4 or 5 of the "Y" Cherry switches and have used a couple that failed quickly. Then I tried the ST switch. It has been months and lots of plays and works 100%. The ST is wider and beefier than the "Y". I think I had to slightly modify the mount to use the ST switch. The VUK comes out making mod easy. You may also have to bend the tip so it does not go past the plunger. The "Y" in my Shire VUK has been in since I got LOTR and is still working though! Must be the way the ball gets on the switch. The Gimli gets a lot more action.

What's the full name and identification number for this switch. I need to get a couple too.

#1906 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I am not sure but suspect he was referring to this one:

Thank you DC. Can anyone else confirm this is the correct switch, before I order them? I just want to make sure.

2 months later
#2094 2 years ago

Please help,
I think I have an easy Balrog question. I just replaced the wiring that goes to Balrog's switch and lamp socket. It seems to be working fine, but the light keeps blowing. The manual says it needs an 89 bulb, but the socket appears to be for a 44 bulb. I was trying to use a Ghost Busters led 44 bulb, but I've blown 2. I thought 89 bulbs are wider at the base and wouldn't fit into the socket? I believe it's either the bulb or I wired it poorly. Balrog's light works for 1 game and then blows. Any help is appreciated.

#2096 2 years ago

Thank you! It looks like they're out of stock and I haven't been able to find another good source for a nice 12v /44 bulb. Is there anybody else you'd recommend.

#2099 2 years ago

Yes, I think that the Cointaker might work. I was looking all over. That appears to be a decent led bulb.

#2100 2 years ago

Wow, that LOTR topper at Cointaker is insane!

1 week later
#2140 2 years ago

I really like this plastic. It's twice as thick and great art work. I believe I bought it off market watch. Also, my ball does the same thing on Path of the Dead. It also sometimes gets stuck on the first right post or falls back down the tower.

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#2153 2 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

I just installed this from Pinbits and it works great. The ball will not get stuck between that post and the tower anymore. It does also help to minimize the amount of times the ball will fall back into the tower but does not eliminate that problem completely.

Cool! Will it still work with POTD Mod?

#2161 2 years ago

Switch the ring magnet fuse to 4 amp. Approved by Stern.

2 weeks later
#2286 1 year ago

Tried to replace the fork switches with the Star Trek pro switches for durability. It was previously mentioned in this thread. They didn't work for me. The ST switches we're to short. I tried to stretch them out and it worked for a minute, but was inconsistent. I'll need to buy fork switches and abandon the ST.

#2288 1 year ago

No problem, I think it could have worked if I straightened out the first bend before installing. I tried to straighten it after i already installed it and it snapped. So I'm just going to buy a fork switch.
I am happy that you documented this as an option, because I believe the fork switches are going to be discontinued. Hopefully they come out with a stronger replacement fork switch and not leave everyone hanging.

#2292 1 year ago

Funny, I just bought 4 yesterday.

#2293 1 year ago

I'm powder coating my LOTR tomorrow. I'm debating on the color shiny brass vs. red. Maybe a shiny brass with red in it. I haven't seen a red one yet. Does anyone have a pic? Other suggestions?

4 weeks later
#2377 1 year ago

Trying a new and unique powder coating for LOTR. I wasn't able to get it plated, so I'm choosing Transparent Copper. I'll post pics when it's rebuilt.

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#2392 1 year ago

I have a question and it's probably been brought up before. My Balrog switch seems to be intermittent. A lot of times he doesn't register. I've replaced the switch and wiring, but no change. It activates in switch test. Also Balrog doesn't seem to go all the way back, when it's moving into position to cover the spinner and it's not getting hung up on the wiring. I'm not sure if this is what's causing it. I thought I'd ask before dipping into it to deeply.
I've also played other LOTR's and it seems like this is a common problem. So, maybe it's normal.

#2395 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

You completely replaced the wiring that runs from the switch to the board under the playfield? That fixed my problem

Yes, all new wiring and a new switch.

#2396 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

There's a relay PCB that Balrog plugs into under the playfield. Reflow all the solder on it. That should help with the position not registering correctly.

Thank you, I'll take a look

#2397 1 year ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

There's a relay PCB that Balrog plugs into under the playfield. Reflow all the solder on it. That should help with the position not registering correctly.

Couldn't find a PCB under the playfield

#2398 1 year ago

Is this the relay PCB?

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#2399 1 year ago

Looks pretty good

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#2401 1 year ago

I just did and probably messed it up. Now it continues to run in the direction of covering the spinner. I just heated them up. I don't believe it's crossing connections. Thank you for ur time

#2403 1 year ago

Reflowed again and got it working. It's moving back and forth just fine, but Balrog isn't registering at all. Does the PCB control the switch at all?

#2405 1 year ago

Yes, I bought a new one from Pinball Heaven. I can't believe nobody else sells them.
Anyway, I think I fixed it. Looks like it was a shitty solder job on my part. I replaced the switch again with a new one. Upon testing it and not installing, it appears to be working. It also could have been a faulty switch. It's tight in back of Balrog and the switch has tiny holes for wiring, plus diode. So it was probably my fault. Going to install it now. Crossed fingers. Thanks everyone!

#2406 1 year ago

That was it
I'm going to smash the hell out of that Balrog.

#2408 1 year ago

Anybody have a quick fix for the ball getting stuck at the top of Path of the Dead. I know you can buy that plastic fitting, but I was wondering if you could add an extra rubber or a smaller rubber to the post.

#2429 1 year ago

Just got it put back together after powder coat.

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1 week later
#2447 1 year ago

Is that a homemade POTD? I bought mine and it came with diodes on all the yellow wires I believe and the red didn't have one. The diodes we're located at the connection (your 2nd pic).

#2448 1 year ago

There's some information here. Pinball bulbs POTD install.

#2450 1 year ago

Ok, so my friends Simpsons started blinking and it appears the DMD blacked out. Also, they were unable to play. They shut it off and the next day it was fine. I didn't see it. Any ideas?

#2452 1 year ago

Oops, wrong thread. Haha! Thank you.

1 week later
#2475 1 year ago
Quoted from Gunnder:

I added a small section of dead drop foam. Works like a charm. I can take a pic of the exact placement if you want.

Thank you I ended up just buying the plastic part. I was lazy and didn't want to tear everything down to add it. I'm glad I did, it works well.

#2476 1 year ago
Quoted from Gunnder:

Is there a way to repair the VUK switches by any chance? The new one I put in (right Gimli VUK) just went again after only about 50 games or so. The one before that lasted over 500 games probably, but this new one what the hell!?!?! I put it in 2 months ago. Has anyone tried prying those suckers open to see what is going on? Seems like a simple regular switch either open or closed.

If you look a couple pages back in the forum. People were having success using the ST pro switch for LOTR vuk

3 weeks later
#2550 1 year ago

I'd check the solder joints on your new switch. Maybe you have a cold spot or the connection is bad.

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