(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

5 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (2 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (8 months ago)

Post #5383 LOTR documentation for silicone rings and LEDs Posted by Daditude (84 days ago)

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#40 5 years ago

There are some great quality mods for LotR.

Jay's Palantir is a must, as are better speakers.
The shaker kit and the backbox lightning kit from Superfluxshop are other favorites.

Here's a video of the lightning kit in action (it's an old video, in the meantime i've added a lot of mods to the machine):

1 week later
#48 5 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Can someone tell me all that needs to be done to get to Valinor?
Here's what I "think" it is:
Finish FOTR multiball (what exactly does that entail? How many people cross?
Finish TTT multiball
Finish ROTK multiball (what does this entail? Is it just hit the 4 shots and repeat 7 times? Any strategy here?
Destroy the ring once?
Collect gifts of the elves? How many are there? Six? Or is there some secret ones? Do you have to beat all the modes and all of the multiballs?
Play TABA. You don't have to beat it do you?
Then...how do you start valinor?

1) Complete FOTR MB (All eight members+Gandalf Balrog Strike),
achieve Super Jackpots for an Elf Gift at minimum
2) Complete TTT MB (Survive the Assault to the end, new level every 5
jackpots achieved), achieve Super Jackpots for an Elf Gift at minimum
3) Complete ROTK MB (All Seven Levels), achieve Super Jackpots for an
Elf Gift at minimum
4) Play all 6 Rings Modes (Completion not required)
5) Play There and Back Again (Completion not required)
6) Collect all six Elf Gifts
7) Destroy the Ring (2X Required, or ONCE if you are SUPER SUPER HOT!)

Valinor starts automatically the moment you have destroyed the ring AFTER having achieved goals 1-6 above.
Basically you should play through all the modes before starting the last of the three main multiballs. If you by mistake start all three multiballs without having played all the modes you can back out of "Destroy the Ring" by starting Gollum Multiball (which will change the ring shot from "Destroy the Ring" to "Mode Start" for the time Gollum Multiball is active). This makes sense to go for if you only have one or two modes left to play. If there are to many unplayed modes left it makes more sense to destroy the ring once, finish the modes and play all main mulitballs again.

#49 5 years ago

Sorry - double post.

2 months later
#54 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Hey guys -
I should be getting my LOTR on Sunday. Any stuff I should look at or adjust first thing to get started?

Get the Palantir mod! The game is not complete without it!

Other than that at least my LotR is a very reliable game, never had any problems except the rear stop post not stopping the ball correctly in "War of the Ents".

#57 4 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

As mentioned above, you'll probably need to add some rubber onto that pop-up post in the orbit to get War of the Ents to work correctly. It also helps when initiating ROTK multiball.

Aha! How does this "rubber-fix" work? I only just learned about the "tilt the whole post assembly by adding washers unter the front screws so that the post tilts towards the front of the game" fix. Haven't done it yet, so any easier fix is welcome.

2 weeks later
#83 4 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

Take a standard black post rubber, cut it down so that it fits through the playfield while on the post. IIRC, I basically cut a post rubber in half and shaved down the overall thickness of it with a razor blade.
Both solutions are viable, IMO.

Thanks for this! Used a standard post rubber, worked right "out of the box" without shaving down thickness.

After this fix I finally understand why the Orthanc diverter closes whenever the loop diverter post goes up.

1 month later
#116 4 years ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Now wishing I bought the LE.

Just out of curiosity - why would that be?

Except for the ugly LE-dick-backglass that's only bearable when not lit I don't see anything on it that couldn't be done even better aftermarket on a standard LotR.

2 weeks later
#133 4 years ago
Quoted from tu71586:

Where did you get that cool shooter rod, LOTR_breath?

From Tom (I guess): http://home.myfairpoint.net/vze8f4tt/tomstwilightzonepinballmachineaccessories/

I've got the same one and added a golden outer shooter spring - beautiful.
There's also a light up version (LED in the shooter housing).

#136 4 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Yes, I got it from Tom W. That website actually shows a few in stock so I would jump on it if you want one. I thought all runs of this shooter rod were long gone with no more to be made.

He only makes a few shooters every few years, last run was in beginning of 2015.

#142 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

Hopefully you guys can help me out.
I am getting a stock LE next week. I am going through a list of things I NEED to pick up:
- Rubbers (Black or white? Also, I am looking at the manual and see 37~7/16" rings? Do I need that many?)
- I seem to remember some sort of protector made for the ball as it falls off the POTD?
- LEDs (eventually)
- Color DMD (one day...)
- Jay's Mod
Once the game arrives, I'll determine if I need to rebuild the flippers or not (he suggests that I should). If I do, does the LE like the upgraded coils? Also, from what the seller explained to me, once in a blue moon the balls get stuck on the sword lock. He suspects it could be either magnetized balls or a misadjusted microswitch. Is this a common issue that I can read up on somewhere?
And finally, any other little mods here or there I should add? I'm not looking to go TRON on it, so I'll pass on the lighted POTD kit for now. I also won't bother buying actual figures for a while. They're stupid expensive. Once I can find them for cheap, I may grab some.
Thanks for any tips guys. Looking VERY forward to this arriving!

Black rubbers!

Also install the reinforced post for next to the ring ramp.

Jay's Palantir is a must, as is Tom Wible's shooter rod.

Rebuild the flippers - mine looked just fine, but after rebuilding them they are almost to strong (with stock coils!), made a HUGE difference.

The PotD rebound stopper isn't necessary on most machines, it usually falls back into the tower very very rarely.
The Arwen plastic protector as mentioned by razorback is necessary, otherwise the Arwen plastic will be beaten soon.

#147 4 years ago
Quoted from nicoga3000:

I'll look into the Arvin protector. Is the Pinbits set necessary? Also, where do you get the reinforced post at? And where can I buy the plastic diverter?

Not sure what the Pinbits set includes, but you want to have a clear plastic slighlty bigger than the Arwen plastic and mount it above Arwen to protect her from the balls falling off the end of the PotD. There are some solutions that "sandwich" Arwen ( ), but that's overdoing it in my opinion. If you use the plastic diverter Arwen won't take ball hits any more, so you can mount the Arwen protector underneath the Arwen plastic then (as you usually do with protectors). But as stated, you are changing the design and intended gameplay of LotR by using the diverter.

I bought my post in Germany, but I guess this is the same one: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1045

On a side note: Get a LED OCD and use the "cheap" LEDs with it. LotR & RBION are the games on which OCD has the most noticeable effect.

#152 4 years ago
Quoted from BdB:

If you get a LOTR LE i schould def put on some figures from AOME.

Totally agree! I replaced almost all figures on my standard because they had no weapons. Cost me about 90USD on aBay for most of them (excluding Gandalf on Shadowfax and Dark Rider). Got the remaining ones locally for 30EUR, so I spent approx. 150USD on the figures - you can still get good prices if you're patient.

#154 4 years ago

These are the ones you need (2 Gandalf versions, later games came with Gandalf the Grey): https://www.flickr.com/photos/lotr_figures/sets/72157623682720697/

Here's what to look for on eBay (the links are old, it's an old list I've been asked for a lot):
- Frodo & Sam: Attack/Ambush at Weathertop (search eBay: "AOME Weathertop")
ebay.com link » Play Along Lord Of The Rings Aome Attack At Weathertop Battle Scale Figure Set

- Pippin & Merry: Attack at Amon-Hen (AOME Attack at...you get the idea...)
ebay.com link » Lotr Aome Attack At Amon Hen Battle Scale Boromir Merry And Pippin New 2003

- Uruk-Hai: 3-Set (Ugluk, Mauhur and Uruk-Hai), NOT the sets with the Battering Ram or Ballista!
ebay.com link » Lord Of The Rings Lotr Armies Of Middle Earth Aome Uruk Hai Ugluk Mauhur Warrior

- Saruman: Orthanc Chamber
ebay.com link » Lord Of The Rings Aome Battle Scenes Orthanc Chamber At Isengard New In Box

- Gollum: Capture of Smeagol
ebay.com link » Lord The Rings Lotr Armies Middle Of Earth Aome Capture Of Smeagol Faramir Nib

- Figures for Path of the Dead: Army of the Dead
ebay.com link » Lord Of The Rings Army Of The Dead

Gandalf on Shadowfax is a special edition single figure, didn't buy that one off eBay, got it locally for a few €.
ebay.com link » Lotr Aome Warriors Beasts Gandalf White On Shadowfax

Can't remember if Aragorn was included in a set or if it's a single figure. Think it's this one:
ebay.com link » Lord Of The Rings Lotr Armies Of Middle Earth Aome Aragorn On Horseback Brego

And the Dark Rider, guess it's complete now
ebay.com link » Lord Of The Rings Lotr Aome Warriors And Battle Beasts Dark Rider Misb

#157 4 years ago

Just rebuild them completely. It's not that expensive and the flippers are your only means of interaction with the ball. They need to bee 100%, 95% ist not enough, especially on LotR. I also like Superbands a lot on this pin, they give you just the right amount of extra snap.

And while ordering at PBL also buy the shire decals & the target decals. Not a fan of target decals, but on LotR they improve the look a lot and blend in perfectly.

#159 4 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

Pawls on sterns almost never need to be replaced, and they are a large chunk of the cost. They are the one thing DE/Stern did better than Williams.

What's a "pawl"?

#164 4 years ago

Ah, ok, thanks. Wasn't even aware you could buy those separatly...the whole thing is just 15$, including the pawl...

#168 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I keep hearing about all of these people getting to TABA, but I've never been able to get there and I'm a pretty good player (I can reach alien invasion regularly, tour the mansion twice in a game, score 1.5bn on TZ, beat Jericho, etc.). I recently added NVRAM to my LOTR and it erased all my settings and put the game back to factory. Long story short, on factory, it seems mode start is lit automatically after each ball, basically giving you three free modes as long as you can shoot the ring. Prior to changing the RAM, i had to hit a certain number of shots to light the mode start, which made it very difficult. I've only played a few games since changing the RAM, but I can see already it's a lot easier.

Yes, on factory setting you get mode lit on every new ball. You only need to always collect elf rings to start TABA itself and on the second time through the modes.
Additionally I think - but might be wrong - that ring shots with unlit mode light also rewards an elf ring on factory setting. This pretty surely does not work to light TABA or on the second time through the modes.

#177 4 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

I know, the plunger and link can be found for $3. So that takes a $70 two flippers rebuild, down to below $50 for a system that already has the most expensive flipper parts. Furthermore, if something is still very good, why replace it? It's not like b/w games that benefit usually from new pawls.
As well, you get into a game like TSPP with 5 flippers, you can appreciate the savings even more. Again, this part is so well made that I have only ever had to replace one which was broken - they never seem to bend.

Makes sense. We don't get the plunger-link-only option here in Germany, only full rebuilds. Must admit that LotR was my first Stern and I was pretty shocked what the full set costs for these games. W/B is so much cheaper, almost half the price.

2 weeks later
#217 4 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

I just picked up a HUO Standard Model game this past weekend. It is a 2004 production with metal apron and stamped sheet metal playfield support guides. In order to follow protocol I need to ask the following question. The playfield contains a bunch of miniature characters on the playfield; the same ones depicted in the brochure. I notice people buying AOME characters off eBay, etc. and adding them to their playfield. Are they replacing the existing ones or adding them to LE models or later runs that, perhaps, didn't have any to start with? Thanks for the replies. JLC

The LE was shipped without any figures as Stern just bought the AOME ones for the early 2K runs but they were not in production any more when the LE was built.
So many LE owners are buying them as their games don't have them at all. Others are replacing broken or missing ones on their older run LotRs. On my machine I added one that was completely missing (Stern ran out of single characters at different times while producing the game), 2 others were missing body parts and all were missing their weapons. So I just bought them all again off eBay, replaced the missing & broken ones and added the original weapons to the complete gang.

I've posted links to all characters Stern used in their first runs of LotR in post 154, the ones linked (AOME) are the exact same original ones that Stern used.

3 weeks later
#241 4 years ago
Quoted from Crispin:

Hell yeah! Enjoy the ride. I have completed the characters over the bridge but still haven't destroyed the ring.

Got the same "problem". DTR is a massive PITA. I've done it, but it's extremely hard to get both balls through the ring. Usually when hit, the ball originally caught in the ring comes through, but the ball i used to hit it drops out the front (99.9% of the time). When DTR is set to 1 ball it's no problem at all to get it done.

Fellowship i actually find rather easy. Get control, hold (at least) one ball on the left flipper, hit Balrog with the right, catch, backhand up the sword ramp, repeat as needed. It's not such a big deal. And always have the Palantir lit when starting any multiball to easily cash in add-a-ball when needed.

1 week later
#265 4 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

On the LE, the right shots arrow is lit, the right ramp arrow and one ring is lit, the gandalf shot is arrow and 2 rings, and the left ramp is the arrow and all 3 rings. Is this right? I'm guessing Keefer added something in the LE code to keep track of rotk progression?

Not 100% sure if i get your question, but the lit rings (=multipliers: 0,1,2,3) is the order in which you need to shoot the jackpots to progress the multipliers in the next level (again 0,1,2,3 Rings will be lit but this time they will count as 2x,3x,4x,5x jackpots if the first level was played in order, etc.). I think it's always been that way, nothing new added for the LE.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

I noticed the right loop arrow goes out during Sheldon and TTT MB so I'm thinking it's an issue with how the LEDs react to the code? I replaced the bank of LEDs on the right loop and right ramp shots but still same issue. So either it's a code issue or I need to replace all the LEDs or it's an issue with the game itself.

I've got LEDs in mine and the right loop arrow stays lit in TTT and Shelob (guessing you don't mean Sheldon) until i hit them.

2 months later
#315 4 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I have color in my GI and I have the Fellowship inserts color coded origin location.

It's Middle Earth, not Oz!

2 weeks later
#333 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

@ bonanza- I used a lot color matching LEDs in the inserts. The middle inserts that light across when picking up men I struggled with finding the right color. White was too bright and after trying a lot of colors I settled on red.


That's weird - I have white (low brightness) LEDs in there and it looks almost the same as in your picture.

Is that really supposed to be red?

The only colored ones I used on LotR are yellow ones under the 3 multiball inserts, looks pretty cool, somehow golden.

1 month later
#368 4 years ago
Quoted from busa32927:

hi all just got my LotR yesterday. lots of fun. but i am missing a couple of the figures. do you guys know of any place to order some. i am missing the upper 1 on the left sling shot and the upper 1 on the right slingshot.

Yes, eBay. They're cheap and very easy to find. Don't buy them at pinball shops, they're usually silly expensive there. They kind of pretend they're rare or something, but there's only very few which are slightly harder to find.

From your description you'll need the following AMOE sets, these are 100% the original ones Stern used:
- Frodo & Sam: Attack/Ambush at Feathertop (search on eBay: "AOME Attack Weathertop")
e.g. Article 291639248750 on eBay
- Pippin & Merry: Attack at Amon-Hen (search "AOME Amon-hen")
e.g. Article 272067431190 on eBay

3 weeks later
#393 4 years ago
Quoted from Peppers:

Please forgive me if this has been asked before, but how does one start "there and back again". As far as I know, the only time I started it was after I destroyed the ring. But I don't know anything about taba mode. Thanks guys.

Just play through all the modes, last one is TABA.

"DtR" ist the "wizard mode" for playing the 3 multiballs, TABA is the "wizard mode" for playing the modes.

#395 4 years ago
Quoted from KenEberhardt:

Any advice on the best LED backbox solution for LotR?
Not much feedback on my general post, except for an excellent DIY reply: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/which-led-backbox-for-lotr
Hope this is a better place to ask
Thx Ken

No idea where to get these in the US, but after seeing lots of different kits I think this is the best one: http://www.superfluxshop.de/products-mainmenu-64.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1670&category_id=115

Here's a video I made some time ago (wow, my LotR was hardly modded back then...):

Just checked out your link. The one Pinballdecals is selling is the one that Superfluxx makes, PDI is the US distributor for Superfluxx.

1 month later
#560 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Couple of comments.
On the post protector ...
If it's the left of the ring ramp post upgrade (highly recommended BTW - from Pinball Life), then be careful removing and installing so you don't bend or damage the ramp switch.
Cliffys are a must on LOTR, but on the shire and the gollums cave, I had to add some E6000 adhesive (tiny amount) to the undersides, then put pressure on them overnight in order for them to lay flat. E6000 is cheap and reversible. Worked like a charm
Couple of other mods to consider:
1) Ring flasher from Pinball refinery (awesome)
2) Colored incandescent bulbs (in lieu of LEDs). I copied this idea from another Pinsider. Green under the slings and near apron. 2 green above the POTD. Orange to the right of the POTD all the way to left corner of machine (along top row). Orange along shooter lane (there are about 9 bulbs in a row there. Get colored bubls from PinballLife
3) Shire decal (PinballLife)
4) Sword tip decal (PinballLife)
5) Target decal set (PinballLife)
6) Shaker motor (easy install and PM me for details)
If ordering from PBL, order some extra parts that common break:
1) Stern/Sega/Data East VUK (Vertical Up Kicker) Fork Switch With Diode - the fork switch at the Gollum cave VUK and Shire
ID#180-5116-01 - you'll need to simply "un-solder" the diode on the switch as it's not needed
2) LOTR Spinner With Decals ID#515-7088-01-80
Also - check your existing Ring flasher and Baradur Tower flashers. When I got my game (HUO since Jan 2004) the Ring was burnt out and the Tower was MIA!
Have fun - it's a great game
See pic for images of colored green bulbs and colored orange along shooter lane

I'd turn this around: 1-6 are musts, but Cliffys are not in my book.

Othanc protector has no use at all, never seen a LotR with damage on the Orthanc hole.
Gollum protector is rather useless, the heavily exposed backside of the hole is fitted with metal anyway. It's mainly the left side of the hole that takes hits, but you can't see that from the players perspective.
Shire protector is useful but this thing is HUGE and very ugly.

I had the Shire protector fitted for a while but took it out again, just couldn't cope with the "industrial look" that's completely misplaced on LotR.

In general I never really understood the concept of protectors on good playfields. They're great to "restore" damaged holes, but on good PFs you're ruining the look of the machine to protect areas you'll never see again due to the protector being there...

1 month later
#586 3 years ago
Quoted from mortenera:

Only thing left is a color DMD, but hard to part with another $400
I do have a couple questions though:
1 - Where can I get those good looking cards for the Apron?
2 - Mine is from Jan 2014 with softare 5.0. Is it worth getting the chip with 10.0? Is it just that chip I need and nothing else?

ColorDMD AND, even more important, a shaker!!! If you like immersive, which you obviously do, the shaker is a must!
I'm mentioning this before you get the 10.0 ROM as you will need the 10.02 (or whatever the number was) instead to drive the shaker.

Regarding the cards, Pinballcards.com has some nice ones for LotR.

#591 3 years ago
Quoted from mortenera:

Ok, I figured it out (you know, by searching the forum, duh!). If I want to use 10.2 then I also have to replace the PAL chip ($17). I likely will have to also update the sound ROM as well so I would need that chip ($10). However, the sound ROM is sold out currently. Since I'll only waste $10 when I go from 10.0 to 10.2 and I can't find the ROM chip (don't want problems on my new pin!) I'll go to 10.0 now, and 10.2 when I add the shaker.
probably. unless i decide on a shaker in the next 30 minutes

You want the shaker. Believe me.

You can survive some time without the ColorDMD (it is great, though), but Jays Palantir and the shaker are essential for the full LotR Experience.

#609 3 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yup, you have to go through the ring, to hit the micro switch #48 on the ramp inside the back to get credit for destroying the ring. I was never getting credit until I figured out that switch was wearing out and not registering most of the time.

But do you have to go through the ring with both balls when hitting the one the ring is holding?

I always thought I wasn't beating DTR because when hitting the ball in the ring it did go through, but the one i hit it with jumped back out. My understanding was that the second ball needs to pass the ring together with the first (held) one to complete DTR.

#616 3 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

You only have to kick the held ball in the ring. The second one Needs not to pass through, but generally falls off at the front of the ring. But that is ok for destroying the ring. If the first ball drops in front of the ring you need to kick one of the 2 balls straight through the ring to destroy it.

Thanks. So I guess I have "the switch 48 problem"...

#636 3 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

You can set the DTR mode to one ball, which has to pass through the ring. But in this mode you do not get a second ball. If you set to 2 balls, you have to kick the stuck ball into the ring with your second ball. If the stuck ball falls out during Play, you play with 2 balls and must kick one of these through thr ring (like in the one ball mode).

This would mean that, if in 2-ball-mode, i hit the held ball out of the magnet but it doesn't award DTR and then hit through the ring again and it doesn't award it either, I can be sure switch 48 is the problem - right?

Not to much in troubleshooting mood these days, but if i can narrow it down to one possible problem i'll go ahead and repair it immediately.

Thanks yoshootme, but I want to stick with 2-ball-mode. I'm a sucker for effects and the one-ball-version is not remotely as impressive.

#649 3 years ago
Quoted from soren:

Are there any tricks to setup LOTR with 2 tilt warnings?

Just the normal Standard Adjustments, i think it's Nr. 15 or close by.

#651 3 years ago
Quoted from soren:

It goes 0, 1 or 3 on the game in speak. As stated in the manual as well.

Oh, now i get it.
No idea...

3 weeks later
#701 3 years ago
Quoted from Propaganda:

I expect lots of negativity or hate from some people.

And by the way you are posting not only in this thread, you are asking for it, aren't you?

Ball times weren't even a topic in this thread until you started stirring the sh...

#708 3 years ago
Quoted from Archytas:

Just wanted to share what I finished doing today, a mixture of Comet LED's and ones sourced locally (I wanted to get comet ones - add something special to the game!) Thoughts? Also added an LED OCD board and did superbands while I was at it.

Very nice! And I'm far more on the "keep it original" side, but this is really well done.

The only thing i don't get is why I see purple in LotR again and again. It doesn't fit the machine or the theme at all. I'd exchange the 3 purple ones on the backboard behind the path of the dead with green ones and the machine would be perfect.

#711 3 years ago
Quoted from Archytas:

I'm giving it a go - the purple does actually make a nice contrast but I have green ones I might try substituting in

Yeah, you'll lose that contrast, but it just hurts to see the path of the dead lit up in purple.

At the moment I've got red on the backboard like you, but I think only 2 green ones to the left (so one more red). The rest of the machine is warm white. I might give the green ones for the slings a try, really like that glow.

#715 3 years ago
Quoted from Propaganda:

Do people have to get your approval first to talk about LOTR topics in this thread? No, they don't.
You have added nothing to this discussion regarding ball times of LOTR.
You just waste everybody's time like you do trolling the ghost busters thread telling the guy to use an Orc topper for his ghost busters game.

Let me hug you, my friend. Can't help myself, you're just so cute.

#718 3 years ago
Quoted from Propaganda:

So far, from the limited number of ball time / game time submissions submitted, LOTRs average ball times are not that much longer than most games. Average ball times are are 1-2 minutes as stated by the games audits. Obviously, better players have longer games than average sometimes. And obviously again it depends how it is set up.
Under 5 minutes, is hardly a long game, taken by itself.

Do you own a LotR?
I'm not questioning the audit submissions, but then you would know that LotR just is a very "long player". Not every game will be lengthy, it's still pinball and a lot of random stuff happens. But it's easy to get into it and when you are, games can take an hour or longer.
Even if you set it up brutally it has a lot of safe havens that tournament players will exploit to keep the ball in play. Such long games are simply not very attractive for tournament play. Even in my home setting LotR hardly get's any use when there's a party and four are playing. Who wants to wait up to an hour until it's his turn again?

It is more of a game you play alone or maybe explore with a friend, as such it is one of the best games ever.

Despite the statistics it has long ball times but that is a welcomed, good thing.

1 week later
#756 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Is the newest rom 10.2 ?

10.0 is the newest "normal" ROM.

10.02 is the LE ROM (and the one you need to drive a shaker with a standard LotR)

1 week later
#768 3 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

got a LOTR last week, but with terrible Cabinet Decals. So i am searching for a set of cabinet and backbox decals. Where can i get this decals ? I can also use a grafic to print it myself ...
thank you

There are no decals.

Your best bet is to hope for someone providing a scan.
Or you could do something like this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoring-a-lord-of-the-rings-cabinet-lotr

1 month later
#852 3 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

I only use the premium ultra gloss balls in my machines, but it doesn't take very long for them to magnetize in my LOTR.

How long is "not very long" in your world?

I would maybe try other low-mag balls, just to see if they hold up better. My Lord has never managed to magnetize balls to a level I would notice it.

And yes, you can actually "shake off" magnetism from metal, you could also whack them with a hammer, but wither way the effect will not satisfy your needs.

#856 3 years ago
Quoted from zrbrt:

Have a weird problem, I haven't looked at it TOO much, but if anyone has experienced this let me know. Powered on my LOTR last night and hit Orthanc, the kickout bounced out of the vuk into the wireform above and back into the vuk repeatedly: it was trapped in an infinite vuk/wireform loop! Maybe the playfield got misaligned somehow, or the coil for the kickout? If anyone has experienced it, let me know, otherwise I'll hack through it.

I'm slightly irritated that you are speaking about a "wireform above Orthanc", but if you mean the PotD, then this is what you're looking for: http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_48&products_id=491

#889 3 years ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

So do others get this ball hang-up?

Never seen that before, not on mine, not on others I've played.

From the VUK it should travel straight in the middle of the arc heading to the wiggle ramp.
Is it bouncing back and getting stuck there or is the VUK itself kicking it in a wrong direction?

#893 3 years ago
Quoted from pinmister:

I just got a CQ LOTR that had been in storage for 10 years and it is like it just came out of the box. I have been going back and forth on weather to mod or not and add LED's. The incandescents give a "golden" look and I think they tie in with the theme well. I only have a few games without LED's now- Elvis, The Rolling Stones LE, WOF and now LOTR. For some reason these games just scream for incandescents. One thing I would like to find is Jay's Palantir mod for my LOTR. Anyone have one for sale?


#917 3 years ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Thank you for the clarification. I still am having difficultly believing that Gomez designed the ball to take a 1" straight drop off POTD to fall onto a plastic and then into a hole. Not only is it clunky but it also tears the shit out of the shire. I do not think this was an intentional part of design, but I could be wrong? I would love to hear from Gomez himself on his thoughts on this issue.

Why not? On Shadow the ball also falls onto the plastics when it leaves the Battlefield.

Since all the shots resemble their character/scenes quite nicely maybe he wanted to mimic the options of either falling down the huge steps all the sculls and bones are poured down during the PotD scene or you can take the "standard exit" as they finally do in the movie after escaping the huge steps scull avalanche by a close call.

#923 3 years ago
Quoted from stoptap:

Just about the best mod you can install around the Shire is the brass rail guide mentioned earlier in this thread and made by ryan1234. It gets rid of the awful 'plastic shelf' and really tidies up the look of the game around the left inlane/outlane area.

Can you please point me in the right direction - I searched this complete thread but can't find the slightest hint to the brass rail guide nor can I even find a user "ryan1234" on Pinside in general.

Love that mod, never seen it before but going through the tread I noticed that a lot of people seem to have it installed. I'm not a huge modder, but I definitely need this one!

1 month later
#983 3 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

but direct shots from the flippers can easily pass over the saucer and enter the pop bumpers, which often results in a perfectly aimed shot not actually qualifying as a hit. Consequently, it is one of the hardest shots to master in the long quest towards Valinor.

It's one of my favorite shots in pinball as it requires correct aim AND correct shot strength. I love shots that intentionally need a soft (or very hard) hit, it adds an additional dimension to gameplay over "just" having to aim in the right direction. Sadly these kind of shots are far to rare.

Quoted from pinmister:

I may be in the minority but I am now in the "Save the Shire" club and my machine will be set up to not tear up the Shire

You are aware that the Shire is torn up just as much, if not even more, by regular hits from the flippers?
Record a slomo video of the ball coming from the flippers and from the PotD and you will see what i mean. It wears like any other unprotected scoop, look at MBs' scoop or STTNGs Neutral Zone. Actually those wear much more and quicker than the Shire. My Shire is all natural and doesn't look that bad at all.
It's a pinball machine, it wears. Dung already stated why the design is what it is.

Not sure what you're saving it for anyway as you can't see it on your machine any more. You installed a monstrous ugly metal thingy there that I assume you will never remove again...

#992 3 years ago
Quoted from pinmister:

I am not going to install a "monstrous ugly metal thingy" because there will be no need with the diverter installed. I was fortunate to find a collector quality LOTR that had been in storage for 10 years and is basically new. My Shire is pristine and it will not get thrashed playing in a home environment even without all the protectors.

I am in for Jay's Mod as soon as available.

I was under the impression the picture you posted (with the protector) was your game.

Jay's Palantir is a must, sound upgrade and colorDMD are to.
I would also go for the PBL ring ramp post. The solution from the original Stern Service Bulletin doesn't work at all.

#1003 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Keith Elwin just posted a Valinor video:
» YouTube video

The video you posted as a reaction to mattmarrs post is the very same video his post was a reaction to.

2 weeks later
#1043 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

so someone snap off one end, never closing the EOS? asking for melted coil if people start holding flipper for too long...

Not really, like fliptronic the software will switch to hold if the EOS is not triggered within a certain timeframe after closing the flipper button switch.

1 week later
#1073 3 years ago

Anyone ever consider a mod to replace the always-broken Y switches in the VUKs? They are getting really pricey, and slowly going out of stock everywhere.

Uhm, on mine they never break - still the original ones in there.

4 months later
#1429 2 years ago
Quoted from richyrich:

Hi all, just became a member of the LoTR LE owners club.
Cant wait to pick it up.
Does anyone know how to get hold of the original figures that came with the2003 version.
Much appreciated

Check my post nr. 154, I made a complete list including ebay search terms and sample links.

You can get all figures easily off ebay for small money, there are only very few that are rare and slightly more expensive.

Don't buy any "complete sets" for hundreds of Dollars, they do nothing else than buy them off ebay and re-sell them for 3 times the original price.

#1450 2 years ago
Quoted from T-800:

I thought it was strange the most common poem from the books isn't anywhere to be found on the game (other than in script form).

It isn't?

lotr2 (resized).jpg

lotr1 (resized).jpg

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