I just took a picture today and created a Photoshop template to the exact size (first time trying to copy pinball plastics).
My copy is the top one - printed from a Brother Color laser onto hp premium paper (not glossy). So an inkjet to glossy vinyl will look brighter.

I also finished making Custom side blades and a speaker panel. They're printed on plain paper right now in the pics.

I just got the game about 4 weeks ago. I never played it before I got it. Man is this a great pin! I feel like I'm going on the journey every time I play it.

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I just bought the Brother HL-L3270CDW $250 If you can find it in stores.
I use it to mock up the designs.

I'll probably print out the final version of the blades on my HP OfficeJet Pro 8210 inkjet printer because it might look more glossy. I print to 8-1/2x11 Glossy Vinyl sheets, cut into 4 sections and then I put a clear laminate over the final blade to make it one whole piece.

Having my template is fine, but it's still a process to cut out the 4 pieces. Once I have the design just right, I use New Guide option to make the vertical lines for my cuts. I flatten the image. Then I can select one section and use Ctrl-J to copy that section into a new layer. Then select the background again and select the next section to cut out. Then I copy/paste each section/layer into a separate 8-1/2x11 Landscape file that has guides around the edges so my final printout doesn't get cutoff on the printer. I use a razor blade to cut the vinyl all around. Line it up, some tape on edges to hold it together. Then I bought a 12"x30ft roll of clear vinyl. Peel and roll the clear vinyl onto the blade. Trim excess clear and done. Or just use template and send it to a professional printer to print as one large sheet. Guess I should make a YouTube video

Awesome! Now you can get back to making more tower and vulcano mods when the materials come in.

My kids don't want to play my pins, so I have all the high scores.

Pic is of my machine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1195-rgp-models/02523-lord-of-the-rings-lotr-path-of-the-dead-etched-acrylic

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You can cut your own clear acrylic and put over the original plastic. I scanned in the Arwen graphic if you want it to make your own.

I bought a 'kit' from someone and it came with comet pinball matrix star post lights - for some reason they were purple instead of green.
(I messed up one light in the pic)

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Yes, they are on all the time. I used a comet bulb connector and plugged it into a gi socket on the very back of the playfield. What does gotd stand for/mean?

Mine just came with Cometpinball matrix star post lights all connected together with y adapters and then powered by a matrix bayonet quick connect bulb.

Yes, plugged into gi with the Cometpinball led that has a matrix connector on it.
The kit came with Purple lights, so I kept them since I actually liked it. I had to buy more plastic spacers to raise the plastic because the matrix connectors were interfering with the ball.
It's not in the picture, but I also heated shrink wrapped the connections.

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I need help with TTT multiball.

My 'The Two Towers' multiball doesn't lock the balls when I shoot up the sword ramp.

Every time it hits the 'Rail Ramp Exit' #22 switch, the 'Sword Lock Release' #21 coil fires, dropping the ball back into the inlane.

I can only lock the balls on the sword ramp if they bypass the 'rail ramp exit' switch by going through the Gimli vuk, or through the Ring to the back winding wire ramp.

Changing the 'TTT Lock Difficulty' only changes "how hard it is to light locks". So that setting doesn't matter.

Switches work in test mode, but the logic isn't working.

I've had the game for over a year, it worked properly before.
Yes, I light locks with the keep letters, lock is lit. The switch at the bottom of the sword ramp registers, then the ball triggers the rail ramp exit, which always drops the plastic ball stop before the ball gets to the 3 ball lock switches.
Not sure what you mean by 'pre-lock' switch.

I've been dealing with this issue for weeks, so right now I just bent the ramp rail switch out of the way so it never gets triggered, and now the ball locks work like they are supposed to. Go figure.

Need help
LOTR Sword Lock Doesn't work for me anymore.

Everytime the ball goes up the sword lock ramp and hits the 'Rail Ramp Exit' switch #22, it triggers the ball stop plunger to go down. The balls only lock when they bypass the switch via the Gimli vuk or the back curvy ramp.
The only work-a-round I found was to tape the switch closed, then the ball will lock, and if it's actually not supposed to lock yet, it will release a ball after a short delay.
I changed out the switch (I had to get a long straight one and bend it since the past is out of stock). That didn't help. I factory reset the game and that didn't help either.
Any idea why the locking logic is all messed up now?
I did replace the Gimli vuk switch, but I'm not sure if this issue happened before or after I changed it.

Some examples:

Thx

I had a similar situation. Check the cables on the backboard right behind the tower.