The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

4 years ago

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  • 3,454 posts
  • 388 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by bigdaddy1
  • Topic is favorited by 212 Pinsiders


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#1289 1 year ago

Finally got another LOTR. Long story..

Anyways, I was thinking of trying out the etched gold mirror speaker acrylics on Has anyone else tried these? Pics perhaps?


#1291 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I believe that's the one I have. It's at my office. I'll take pics Monday if no one beats me to it.

Sweet.. Thank you.

#1297 1 year ago

Anyone have any suggestions for LEDs on LOTR?

I usually use the Comet frosted 2-LED bulbs in warm white. I like these LEDs bacause they are just a little brighter than incandescent and the warm white is not "too" white. I also like the Comet parts because I think they are reasonably priced and good quality. That being said, I tried some out on the inserts in front of the sword ramp and they are *barely* brighter than the stock bulbs. Except for the white insert. Plenty bright there.

I also don't want to go totally overboard either.

Oh, and are the non-ghosting LEDs good enough to take care of the ghosting problem on this game or is the OCDLED board actually needed.


#1303 1 year ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

I used Comet's 2-SMD warm white bulbs for the GI, and Comet's 2-SMD color-matching bulbs for the inserts (except for the yellow inserts, where I substituted warm white instead). I'm very pleased with the result.
I also installed the LED-OCD board, which makes a huge difference for the fading and transitions of the light show on this particular pin. It's definitely worth the investment. Herg rocks!

Quoted from Pinzap:

I think you will find that either solution will work, but if you want the best looking results, you should go with the LED OCD board w/ normal LED's. Don't use the non-ghosting LED's with the OCD board (explained a bit more on their website I think). That's what I did with mine and couldn't be happier.

Thanks for the input guys. Flynnibus thank you for the well taken pics. It's so hard to take good pictures of LED setups.

#1305 1 year ago
Quoted from chadderack:

Man, I love this darn thing


That's about how many plays were on my original 2003 first run game. Game had major PF registration issues so Stern sent me a new PF. I clearcoated it, wetsanded it, polished it and reassembled. Then put 200 games on it. Life happened and I had to sell it.

Fast forward to last Saturday and I got it back. With almost 7600 plays on it and basically zero maintenance. It has hardly any wear at all. Most of it is in the Shire pit. Pretty happy with how my clearcoat job held up over the last 8 years!

#1311 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

radius118... Looks like nobody has posted pics for you yet. Here are a couple. I love this upgrade, but I keep the speaker leds on red all the time rather than color changing.

Sweet.. Thank you for that! I ordered a set along with the speakerlights..

Waiting for colordmd to get some units back in stock!

#1312 1 year ago

So I want to build my own POTD interactive mod with the army of the dead figures.

I've got the Pinbits mounting plate coming. I found a set of the AOTD figures on eBay for an exorbitant amount of money, gulped real hard and hit the BIN button.

But.. That set only comes with 3 figures. In order to tie it in to the POD lights I need one more.

Anyone have an extra AOTD figure they'd be willing to sell me?


#1317 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Dang. Sorry it took me so long. YouTube wouldn't let me upload at work. Then I'd forget. Well, for future reference, here's a video with color-changing.
» YouTube video

Very nice! Thanks for uploading that. Glad I ordered.

#1318 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I only have three, put color changing leds in them.
» YouTube video

I thought about that.. But I really like the idea of making them interactive and tying them to the POTD souls lights. If I can't fine one extra figure then that's what I will probably do.

I'm certainly not going to buy another set of those figures for what they seem to go for now. :/

#1319 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I have a set of three but they all turn on together. I'm thinking about getting the mod for sale here. How much would you guys pay for one of mine?

Well I basically just paid $20 a piece for the set of 3 I got with shipping. So hey, how about $20 shipped for one of em?

#1321 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

These already have the led and wiring in them (maybe yours did too) but I would probably do something close to that if there were other guys to buy the other two. Or maybe you could take all of them and handle the rest of the selloff?

That's what I am trying to avoid. I could buy another set of 3, but then I'd have 2 extra to deal with.

#1334 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Well....New coil so I guess transistor. Guess I'll have to do more research to find out where to get one of those. Any idea?

1 week later
#1342 1 year ago

Well.. Just about ready to go back together.. A few more parts to clean and polish and away we go. Oh and I have to build a new Balrog harness.. Or repair it..

I bought this game NIB back in 2003. It was my first NIB game and I was really disappointed by the quality of the factory clearcoat. Super thin and not very flat. So I decided to strip it and clear it myself. Turned out absolutely beautiful. After curing for 6 months I assembled it and put about 200 plays on it. Then life happened and I had to sell it.

Long story short, I traded a POTC to the guy I sold it to and got it back. 7600 plays in 8 years. The only maintenance it got was ball replacement a few times and a couple of switches and bulbs replaced here and there. That's it. No cleaning, no waxing, etc. Truly a case study for me as far as my procedures on clearing. Too bad Cliffys for this game weren't available when I put it together. If they were the wear in the pics would be very minimal. As it is, the game had zero protection - not even any mylar pieces anywhere.

Pics are not the best quality so it's hard to see just how black and dirty the game was in the fully assembled pic.

So just out of curiosity, what's the current method to prevent wear from occuring due to the plate holding the blue pad rotating? I would love to drill another hole and put another screw in it, but I think it would interfere with the ball travel.

I've got 2 days to get it done!

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#1347 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Are you saying it got 7600 plays in someones home? That would be pretty amazing....

Well 7400 plays as I sold it with just under 200 plays on it. The audits were never cleared. Heck my GC score was still on the game. I sold the game back in summer of 2008 and just got it back this month. So that's what 8 1/2 years? That's an average of 2.39 games every single day. Yeah, pretty impressive.

Again, it's also pretty impressive how little wear this playfield actually got considering the amount of plays, the lack of maintenance and the lack of protection. In those days I didn't install Cliffys on clear coated or NIB games due to the anticipated amount of plays a game usually gets in HUO situations. No more. Every NIB or cleared/restored game gets Cliffys and/or Mantis protectors. I refused to unbox my ST Prem when I got it until I had my Cliffys and pinbits plastic protectors.

Quoted from Razorbak86:

The Balrog harness is easy enough to rebuild (I've done it before), but this is another cheap alternative. link

Thanks for that link. Unfortunately it's too late for me to order. I will just have to build a new one or repair the one I have. Besides, I have a custom mod on Balrog that I built back when I cleared the PF that has to be incorporated into the wiring harness.

Quoted from lb1:

Thanks for documenting this. This is the blue rubber that's right of the Pippin insert, right?
I don't think you can really prevent any rotation. When the ball hits, even when it's screwed on tight, the whole thing will move a little.
It looks like maybe the bracket holding it got loose and sagged onto the playfield, then scrapped it.
I'd do three things. 1- Tighten the bracket and periodically check it is tight. 2- Add a washer under the ball guide bracket to slightly elevate the assembly. 3- Add a small piece of Mylar under the whole thing, hidden under the rubber assembly. Maybe overkill but you shouldn't have any problem.

Quoted from DCFAN:

I believe Cliffy made a protector for someone for the wear in that area.
EDIT: Here it is:

Yes.. And I agree.. The design is terrible. Add to that the fact that you really can't crank down on the little screw or you'll distort the shape of the rubber pad. This is actually a very common wear spot for LOTR. If I had my way, I would put a second nut-sert into the bracket so it can't rotate. I am out of time now so I am just going to cut down a clear washer and put it over the wear spot for now. FYI I *always* add washers under post style ball guides to prevent the guide from tightening down and "cutting" the PF.

Unfortunately I did not know about the Cliffy piece until this morning which is a bummer as I would have ordered it along with the rest of Cliffy's stuff for this game so I'd have it to install now.

#1349 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

A small piece of Mylar would work just as well. You could touch up the wear spot, wax, add a small piece of Mylar on top, maybe even double it, and you're good to go.
Do you have close ups of the clear coat in high wear areas? I'd be curious to see the dimpling and level of reflection.
Are you planning on polishing the clear before reassembly?

Perhaps, although I can see the edge of the bracket easily chewing through a couple pieces of mylar. I'm not going to worry about touching up that wear spot for now. If I decide in the future to sand out the wear spots and re-clear the playfield I will touch it up then.

Polishing is done. I have a couple more coats of wax to go and the PF is ready to be reassembled. I will try to get better pics but the lighting in the project room is just not very good for pictures. The rest of the playfield is perfect. Of course there are dimples but that is normal. All playfields dimple.

#1351 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I put two washers on my game to be on the safe side. I tried inverting the bracket to have wider Pippin lane but eventually moved it back to be able to replace the rubber. Otherwise the screw head is on the wrong side.

Interesting idea. So you drilled another hole in the ball guide in order to make that work?

#1352 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

Do you have close ups of the clear coat in high wear areas? I'd be curious to see the dimpling and level of reflection.

This is the best I can get with the lighting where the game is at. Interesting thing I noticed. There is so much reflection that on the close up shots my camera was actually focusing on the texture of the popcorn ceiling in that room. You can see the ancient smoke detector reflected in the PF in one of the pics. At first I thought my camera was going haywire and "texturizing" the surface until I realized what was actually happening. Should should give you an idea of the level of reflection.

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#1356 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

Really nice shine. You did a fine job with the clear coat.

Thank you. Considering I cleared the PF 13 years ago, it got 7600 plays with no maintenance and then cleaned up that nicely I am pretty happy.

Quoted from lb1:

And the Cliffy's will hide the wear in the VUK areas just fine.

Yup.. That's the idea.

#1360 1 year ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Hi guys....need some help. Been through the manual and I just can't seem to find the p/n of the diodes on specific coils. I found the diode list in the back and the coil p/ns but how do I find the specific diode p/n for each coil. Having trouble with my sword lock and wanted a spare diode ...just in case. Going to get the transistor today. Thanks!

1N4004 is the part number for coil diodes.

#1383 1 year ago

Well she's finally done.. Just in time for tomorrow...

I only played one quick test game on it and man is it stupid fast. Will take a while to calm down.

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#1386 1 year ago
Quoted from doloe:

Ok. Time for me to speak up.
As the person responsible for most of those 7k+ plays..................
That looks really clean.
Could I borrow it for a few months?
p.s. If anybody has a pin that needs to be field tested. I might be your guy.

Hahaha! Missing it already? Maybe you should abandon the next game on your list and look for another one of these instead.

#1387 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I'm getting consistent rejects from the left loop -> Barad-Dur shot. Is there something that can help? Foam on the metal deflector?

I have the same issue after rebuilding my LOTR.. I think the ball is just hitting the small scoop too fast and bouncing out. Let me know if you find a solution for this. I am thinking a blue nub of death trimmed and glued down might do the trick.

#1398 1 year ago
Quoted from doloe:

More play time and less cleaning time.
Maybe I had just gotten had the play field dialed in.

When you got it the game had 200 plays on it after clearing the playfield. Plenty of time for the game to "calm down" after clearing.

2 weeks later
#1421 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I ordered some balls from eBay that are supposedly carbon steel and should not magnetize. After two games they were severely magnetized. It's amazing how fast it happened and the problems this creates. Balls stuck in the sword, in the Ring's exit hole, stuck together when cradling multiple balls, and also problems in the ball trough.
What are you guys using for balls?

I buy carbon in bulk from Marco.. Last order was 78 cents each for 100.

I run 4 at a time through my Lortone rotary polisher with crushed walnut media and red rouge for a week and they turn out magnificent. Super smooth and shiny. After 300 plays or so I run them through the polisher again. They turn out 99% as nice as the first time through. I get about 3 cycles through the polisher before they hit the recycle bin. So I get about 1000-1200 plays per set of balls.

Carbon balls *will* magnetize although not as fast as chromium.

#1425 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

Turns out the thread I got the ebay seller recommendation from reported similar magnetization problem.
I also tumble rusty balls and they come out very nice. I did it in a vibrating tumbler but I also have a double rotary tumbler and will try it out and see how they come out.

The secret is the crushed walnut with red rouge... link »

IMHO the rotaries work a lot better than the vibratory because of the rolling action and it's a lot slower.

Your results may vary but I really like how they turn out.

#1430 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

Thanks for the link. I started a batch with Flitz. Are you able to remove minor rust off the surface?

Yes.. But keep in mind that it does take longer in the rotary than the vibratory. But the finish is far nicer. I have done lots of experiments with this, and for balls that are worse then normal, I have run them through the vibratory as a "first pass" and then run them through the rotary.

Obviously any balls with pits or chips or gouges need to be tossed as they are not salvageable.

If you try that red rouge media, you will stop buying Flitz. Personally I think that stuff is way overpriced.

#1443 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

The looseness can come from a number of different reasons. Have you checked the fit of the axle shaft in the frame? Best check first.
Another possibility is that the steel clutch plates are loose and need tightening.


Especially the steel clutch plates. It's common for them to get loose. They are located in the big gray coupler looking thing on the balrog motor assy. There are 2 machine screws with 1/4" heads on them. Make sure the flat on the shaft if perpendicular to the plane of the screws and tighten them down. Do NOT over tighten as they just screw into the plastic.

#1445 1 year ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Thank you for the advise. I did try and screw down the two screws located on the motor coupler thing, but it is still super loose. Anywhere else I should check before breaking him apart?

It's just a basic mechanical thing. If the clutch isn't the problem then you'll just have to look the assembly over and figure it out. It is not very hard to get the balrog assy out of the game.

1 week later
#1463 1 year ago
Quoted from pghpinfan:

Any recommendations on the speaker lights?

The gold ring acrylics are available there too. They look quite nice.

#1465 1 year ago
Quoted from pghpinfan:

Do those light up when the game is powered on or are they powered separately?

They light up when the game is powered on since the plug into the accessory power connector

1 week later
#1471 1 year ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

anyone interested in this stainless steel speaker panel

I might be but I think I would prefer it with the speaker openings completely open. I prefer the look of the ring acrylics with speaker lights.

3 weeks later
#1505 1 year ago

Had some friends over to play and all of them complained about LOTR being too hard - yes they are beginning players. I think the reason everyone had this opinion is because LOTR doesn't have a ball saver turned on as factory default. All of my other games do, so I think that's where the perception of the game being hard came from.

So I went into the adjustments to try to turn it on but could not find a setting for a general ball saver. Am I just missing something or is it called something else?

#1507 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

It is called freeze time in the settings.

Ah! Ok.. that explains it.. I will go make the adjustment.


2 months later
#1620 1 year ago
Quoted from badbilly27:

I've owned my LOTR since buying it HOU from original owner year it came out. I'm contemplating selling it off and rotating in a new pin.
Someone try talking me out of it. (I also own a Hobbit)

Sell Hobbit and keep LOTR. Hobbit pales compared to LOTR. Imho of course.

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