(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Jarbyjibbo
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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (6 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (4 years ago)

Post #5383 LOTR documentation for silicone rings and LEDs Posted by Daditude (4 years ago)

Post #9244 TECH:PLAYFIELD Opto Driver replacement board warning Posted by PinMonk (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1203 7 years ago

Anyone here install the Modfather Interactive sword mod on their LOTR?

http://modfatherpinball.com/products/lotr-interactive-sword-mod

Of all the mods I am still wanting for mine, I'm thinking this one might be tops on the list, but I've only seen pics and not in person. Want to make sure it doesn't block to much because it appears to be quite a large object. I really don't care about seeing the balls in the sword trail below, but I don't want it to block the ringwraith, shooter lane, or anything else too much that it detracts. Any opinions would be appreciated.

I'm also looking to do the path of the dead with the translucent green armies of the dead figurines... and possibly a shooter rod, though can't decide between the red knob with gold ring or the round globe that looks like earth tone layers. Leaning toward red knob with gold ring, but again, haven't seen it in person.

Decisions, decisions!!

1 week later
#1228 7 years ago
Quoted from T-800:

Someone on this thread already had the cool idea to put more wraiths in the game, so I decided to do it as well.

Those two wraiths look absolutely sick there!! Awesome mod and a must have for my LOTR.

#1238 7 years ago

A hex post on mine. Looks to be about 1.5" long or so. The wires from the ring wraith flasher and switch appear to be zip tied around the hex post to probably prevent pinching when raising/lowering the playfield.

IMG_2766 (resized).jpgIMG_2766 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1258 7 years ago

LCD in mine and it looks awesome. Haven't seen an LED version in LOTR, but based on other impressions of LED displays, the brightness would be overpowered for the dark theme of this game. Can't imagine it would look good... but would love to hear from someone who has tried.

2 weeks later
#1301 7 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

Anyone have any suggestions for LEDs on LOTR?

Oh, and are the non-ghosting LEDs good enough to take care of the ghosting problem on this game or is the OCDLED board actually needed.
Thanks.

I think you will find that either solution will work, but if you want the best looking results, you should go with the LED OCD board w/ normal LED's. Don't use the non-ghosting LED's with the OCD board (explained a bit more on their website I think). That's what I did with mine and couldn't be happier.

#1309 7 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

Finally got another LOTR. Long story..
Anyways, I was thinking of trying out the etched gold mirror speaker acrylics on speakerlightkits.com. Has anyone else tried these? Pics perhaps?
Thanks!

@radius118... Looks like nobody has posted pics for you yet. Here are a couple. I love this upgrade, but I keep the speaker leds on red all the time rather than color changing.

IMG_2856 (resized).JPGIMG_2856 (resized).JPG

IMG_2855 (resized).JPGIMG_2855 (resized).JPG

#1324 7 years ago
Quoted from Mfsrc791:

Just joined the club!!!! Bought a mint condition one off rob from rockland pinball. Only had the game a few hours and its awesome! Next mod i was told to get is mirrors. Are they worth it and anyone have some sweet ass pictures of their machine with them on?

Welcome!! Mirror blades on mine... as for pics, just browse the image gallery for this topic and you'll see at least a couple pics. I can't imagine not having mirrors, they are that great!!

#1327 7 years ago
Quoted from Mfsrc791:

There is no pictures on the pinside gallery. I went on google and found some images. Looks sweet!

I've seen several in the past in this thread. Here are just a couple posts. Have to enlarge the images of course, but can see mirrors. There are a few others as well, but have to click on the full image gallery and go through all 5 pages. I think you were smart to go straight to the good old Google... works every time!!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/17#post-3239081

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/21#post-3364091

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club?gallery#g

#1330 7 years ago

Some have discussed in the past changing out the mosfet transistor that powers/controls this circuit. Read this thread and google a little bit. I almost had to go this route, but turns out I just had to increase my fuse by 1 A, but from the sounds of it you already at the higher fuse rating, right?

http://rec.games.pinball.narkive.com/pzpD1KVt/tech-lotr-ring-magnet-fuse-q6-the-conclusion

5 months later
#1659 6 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

... CUO (Church use only)

Wait... what??

1 month later
#1752 6 years ago

I thought I read something about the mounting of the PinSound board conflicting with the mounting of the OCD-LED board. Can anyone on here confirm that they have both and have not had an issue with placement?

2 weeks later
#1818 6 years ago

I always thought they were called habitrails.

2 weeks later
#1846 6 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

WTB...right front plastic where the flasher is
The melted flasher dome is literally fused with the melted plastic : (
BobC

Maybe it's been covered in this thread before, but does anyone know what causes that flasher to lock on and overheat? I had the same issue with mine shortly after acquiring the game. Luckily, I was shopping the game first before playing and it locked on after turning it on, so I was able to unplug the flahser bulb quickly and only lost the bulb and not the surrounding plastic. I think I had been replacing some of the insert bulbs with LED's and installing OCD LED Board and thought maybe I shorted a wire somewhere, but couldn't find where. I've left the flasher empty for almost a year now, but would like to find the solution if it's a common problem.

2 weeks later
#1881 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Thought I'd pat myself on the back here - just got a new DTR record 1:10.02. Pretty excited to still be breaking (personal) records after five years of home use

Nice job!! The first time I completed DTR, everything came together perfectly and I'm not sure I'll ever beat that time. At this point I'm still just trying to clear my sons gc score (easier since he left for college) or make it to valinor.

3 weeks later
#1983 6 years ago

Went to the Pinball Life part yesterday at Expo... great event and a fun time.

Also picked up one of these middle ring ramps that had been unavailable for quite some time. I know a few others had been looking for this part… So thought I would alert the club.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4723

4 weeks later
#2022 6 years ago

https://www.theverge.com/2017/11/13/16644782/the-lord-of-the-rings-amazon-television-show

This is a bit outside the pin-realm, but definitely thought people in this club might enjoy this news. Let's hope Bezos and his mega-empire don't tarnish this awesome world of Tolkien by just throwing an insane amount of money at it, all in the name of feeding his ego!!

2 weeks later
#2115 6 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

After an unlucky first-ball...

There is no luck in pinball... just play better!!

As said above, there is a setting for that and I have used it. It's #35 in the Standard Adjustments menu titled "Game Restart".

Not that I've been unlucky or anything like that.

1 month later
#2332 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

It should be pointed at the figures on your slings

hobbitses in the dark.pnghobbitses in the dark.png

3 weeks later
#2438 6 years ago
Quoted from canea:

Hey all, can someone explain when the Orthanc diverter should be up? I gather that it's up during War of the Ents, but at what other times should it be up and what maketh it so?

It will go up for a few seconds after the right inlane switch is tripped. So after coming out of the sword release, I generally go for the left orbit unless I’m in a mode or specifically going for another shot.

Tony

3 months later
#2931 5 years ago
Quoted from ruzeo:

edit * - woops meant to post this on getaway forum page, please disregard

You should probably be posting over in the Twister forum! Sorry, couldn’t resist... I’ll see myself out.

2 weeks later
#3019 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballCharlie:

The ball is wild coming out of that ramp on a reject. It is a wide enough ramp that the ball can take multiple angles on an exit. I really need to give my machine a hardy nudge to keep it from draining.

Yep... my experience as well. No single point of exit for any games out there. Ball speed, slope and a little bit of nudging will all change the trajectory completely.

1 month later
#3123 5 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Designing a couple of home brew games and Zach & Greg reminded me how good the Left/Legolas ramp shot is, trying to get a couple of detailed photos of how the ramp is formed etc

Yes! My favorite ramp in all of pinball and a perfect shot comes screaming back at you if the game is setup properly. Difficult to get a good pic without disassembly, but hopefully this helps.

81D7BF70-6423-43B2-A1A1-4A36AC24D6F7.jpeg81D7BF70-6423-43B2-A1A1-4A36AC24D6F7.jpeg
2 months later
#3267 5 years ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

Just picked up this HUO LOTR over the weekend. Did a complete shop job, added Cointaker premium LEDs, added spotlights at the top of the slingshots, and speaker LEDs and acrylics. I changed the Cointaker kit a little to have more warm white for the GI and I changed the coloring of several insert lights. I think it came out great and I couldn't be happier!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great... the warm whites really photograph well!!

Now, if I might be so bold, I would offer up that ColorDMD and mirror blades would make that baby even more beautiful. Oh yeah, don’t forget the Palantir Projected Eye mod. And Ryan’s habitrail mod for left ramp return. And... ok, the list gets too long... just play and have fun!!

1 month later
#3374 5 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

new stainless steel panel for LOTR
$ 141 shipped
if you are interested send me a pm
[quoted image]

Quoted from ruzeo:

Gotta make it gold! Looks cool tho, do you have any pictures on a machine?

Couldn’t agree more. Can’t image stainless steel on the LOTR backboard looking good at all. Change my mind with pics... I’m open.

2 weeks later
#3401 5 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Razor blade and WD-40.

WD-40 is my go to for adhesive removal. Get backglass off of machine first.

And before you take a razor blade to it, run a hair dryer over it first. It might even peel off depending on the adhesive used. Has worked for me before.

3 weeks later
#3439 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

That one ball knocking the second ball thru the Ring to destroy it never has worked 100% on most LOTRs. Most everybody turns Destroy the Ring setting to one ball in the Feature adjustments to avoid this.....

Mine is set to 1 ball as well... always has been and never had any issues. I’ve been curious about switching it to two ball, but after 2 years I guess not curious enough to actually change it.

#3444 5 years ago
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

Change it. When you bash that ball through the ring it's a whole new level of effect. It really makes DTR special. It's awesome!
QSS

Thanks... but I'm not sure I could get any more excited than I already do when I DTR the way it's setup now. I'm sure you're right and it's special, but my existing goose bumps (with one ball setup) don't really need more goose bumps on top of them.

Love this game!!! I wish there were more pins out there with the music/callouts that build such excitement during gameplay. Can't really think of any others that come close. TWD is pretty close at times (during Horde or Siege), but still lacking slightly.

4 weeks later
#3527 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I just bought an external Polk subwoofer for my LOTR, and the Pinnovators hardware to attach it to the game. Do I need the updated files discussed above? I don't have a problem with the stock callouts and music, because I'm not really familiar with the movies. That being said, do I need the other sound packages, and if I try it and don't like it, how easy is it to change it back?
Also, is there a youtube video showing how to properly attach an external speaker to LOTR? I don't want to mess it up.
Any help is greatly appreciated!

The files being discussed above are if you want to add a pinsound board to your pin. You don’t need this to do what you’re trying to accomplish. In fact, if you’re just trying to connect a subwoofer, some (including myself) would say that you don’t even need the pinnovator hardware. But since you’ve got it, I’m not exactly sure how this is hooked up. My LOTR just uses a Polk PSW10 connected to the speaker at the bottom of the cabinet with speaker wires snaked under the mesh in one of the vent holes near the back of the cabinet and terminated with alligator clips. They’re are many ways to pull it off, but I’m guessing if you want to use the pinnovator board, there must be info on their website regarding the connection. Good luck and let us know how much more you like it.

#3534 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it much. I wondered why the additional hardware was needed, if you could simply use clips and attach it to the existing sub in the cabinet. I'm not great with adding sound or light mods. The Polk speaker is still in the box. Maybe I'll tinker with it this weekend and try to get it attached.
Last question. Can you attach multiple pins to a single Polk external sub? I have 2 subs total. One is attached to Tron and works great. I want to add LOTR to that one, and then use the other speaker on 2 other pins. I've seen comments that you can use 2 pins on each sub, and I've seen others saying up to 4 pins on each sub is fine. Does anyone know from personal experience? Is it as simple as snaking speaker wire into the cabinets and clipping to the existing speakers? Are there drawbacks to that method?
Thanks again.

I limit to 2 pins per sub because it my sub has two inputs (left and right). I keep 1 pin per each input on the sub. If you hook up multiple pins on the same input, I would think you’d get voltage traveling back up the wire to the other pin. In other words, you not only hear LOTR on your sub (which is awesome) but you’d also hear it on the speaker in the pin next to you. This is just me speculating, so someone correct me if I’m wrong. Might be able to pull it off with diodes but sounds complicated.

#3536 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I don't see how hooking up two or more amplifiers to each other can be a good thing electronically for the soundboards/amps. By hooking up two or more machines to the same subwoofer that is exactly what you are doing. Some others may have done it "successfully", but sooner or later some pin sound board is going to get fried.....

This is absolutely not what’s happening when you hook up separate sources to separate inputs. Of course I agree if you’re trying to stack wires on a single input. But, the inputs on the subwoofer are electronically isolated internally. Otherwise how do you think it would work that it has a left and a right input? With your supposition, the left would travel back up the right and vice versa... and in your home audio system you’d no longer have stereo sound. This is not how subwoofers are designed as long as you keep one source per input. Voltage will not travel back up to the other amplifier.

1 week later
#3579 5 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

So I am reaching out to ask for some help. I have been chasing an issue I keep having with balls becoming magnetized. I have searched and searched on pinside and I have done the following:
1.) Replaced balls. Often. I am talking three times within 100 games. Nuts.
2.) Changed ball suppliers. I am using carbon steel pinballs from different manufactures. I even looked up some posts here on pinside about Pinball Wizards version, who people claim that they have had better luck than normal not becoming magnetized.
I am getting trough jams, ball lock jams on the sword lock etc. I am at wits end (its a short drive for me). Any thoughts?
Regarding the post quoted below, you may be experiencing what I am. Any help would be appreciated fellow LOTR fans. Thanks.

Out of curiosity, do you have DTR set on one ball or two ball? Or is the magnetization happening even when your aren’t making it to DTR? I haven’t had this problem (DTR set to 1 ball), so can’t give much practical advice... but just thinking about any potential sources of induced magnetism. Have you tried the plexi piece in the ball trough to reduce ball contact with the trough? Not sure what you’d do for the sword though. At this point, I’m wondering if you’ve also secondarily magnetized the metal in the trough and sword slightly (thus increasing your problems). I guess you could try to put a paper clip up against the sword or trough to see if it wants to attract to it at all.

Sorry I don’t have more concrete solutions... good luck as I can imagine this would be frustrating.

#3592 5 years ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

Technically a protective plastic over Arwen would be the most accurate version of how the game was "intended" to be played. It's supposed to plop and go who-knows-where

Well... if we're getting that picky, then technically, a bare Arwen plastic is the the most accurate version of how the game was "intended" to be played. I mean, come on... the coefficient of bounce has to be affected by that plastic protector you suggest. Who knows how that will affect your score. You might never make it to Valinor!!

4 weeks later
#3777 5 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Thanks for all the opinions.
Went with black leg bolts/feet:
[quoted image][quoted image]

Definitely the best choice... love the look! Now, I would also recommend a gold or black cooler to go with the them a bit more.

1 week later
#3815 5 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

I have three I am looking at currently.....
What worries me is that I may buy, then Stern announces a Vault. That is why I sold mine 4 years ago. I mean, they HAVE TO make a vault right?

You have to ask yourself, how would a vault even change your game IF they did make it? If it's an immaculate HUO example, then a vault would not be of greater quality. And no way they'd add figures to a vault, so if yours has those, you're ahead with an original. Only thing I can think of would be a possible upgrade to the audio quality, but would stern really spend the time to re-master all the original clips? Or could they even do this with licensing issues? Maybe it'd end up being like a SMVE with new audio callouts that everyone complains about. The jackpot callout alone is worth it's weight in gold (wait, do callouts really weigh anything? oh well, you get my point). I personally don't think they'll do a vault because finding an original is not very tough... you said it yourself that you're considering three separate ones. Sells would be lackluster at best for a vault. Now, a tron VE is more likely I think (if they can get disney licensing to agree) because of the difficulty in finding these. I'm not worried about that either, because my LE will still be way better than any vault they can release (unless they put Daft punk multiball in the vault, and then I'm gonna go ballistic).

TL;DR - Get the original LOTR now... you won't regret it.

1 month later
#4153 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I have an OCD in mine. I understand there are settings but I’ve never messed with it. In this game, does it make sense for me to learn and adjust the settings?

I guess the answer to this question lies i whether you have a condition similar to the board’s name. In other words, are you OCD about how things look? I was very OCD and spent a little time (but not much) tweaking a few bulbs for brightness so they blended in with the others. If you don’t see any issues then skip it and stick with the stock profile that you initially loaded.

1 month later
#4282 4 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hey there,
Got mine not long ago and have a question, probably missing something.
Regarding the skill shot, how do you chose between one and another? On my machineI see it going very fastr from top light to bottom and I always end up with the right orbit skill shot.
Would be nice to know how to solve this

The three lights that cycle will stop on whichever one is lit when the ball leaves the switch position at the bottom of the shooter lane (next to the plunger). So you have two options... either 1) plunge at the exact time you need to select the skill shot you want, or 2) do what I do and just bump the plunger with the palm of your hand just enough to make the ball leave that switch when your option is lit. This will lock in that light and allow you to take your time plunging.

3 months later
12
#4705 4 years ago
11ED84E2-6AE2-4C4F-8E32-EF031C7A98D2.jpeg11ED84E2-6AE2-4C4F-8E32-EF031C7A98D2.jpegAA9F6A24-E418-496A-B947-6F4F9EFE4420.jpegAA9F6A24-E418-496A-B947-6F4F9EFE4420.jpeg
1 month later
#4932 4 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Did a playfield protector and cliffies today. A lot of work but good peace of mind for the nicest game I own.
As a result of the protector and probably just me reinstalling the left ramp appropriately the balls are flying off of that thing like nobody's business. Is the guy still making those brass air ball guards for the left ramp?

PM ryan1234 and he can let you know. If it, I believe laserrific (can’t remember for sure) makes a nice alternative plastic with elven engraving.

This is only for the lower section though... not the mid section.

3 weeks later
#5118 4 years ago
Quoted from MSLONEKER:

very good. thx. time to learn how to solder. I wasn't sure if it got attached because there was no solder on the wires. they must have just wrapped the wires around the connection.

They didn't wrap it... it was soldered... but the wire broke between the solder and the insulation. If you look closely at the solder on the switch leg (attached to the diode) you should see some broken strands of wire still there.

1 week later
#5215 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

APB??
I had the pinball life coils in but swapped the stock ones back in since it was way too strong. The stock coils seemed to be ok after a 20+ min game I played yesterday. I played for about an hour overall but didn't notice any significant flipper issues.

For the most part I’ve been ok with my stock coils and no fan. Not everyone has had the same experience... but possibly the coils just start out colder up here in Minnesota!!

2 weeks later
#5331 4 years ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

It looks to be in great condition, low plays, unmolested with mods. I haven’t seen it in person, only pics, but it looks like it just came out of the box. How about the other questions.

Mine has been quite reliable. Any problems I've had are well documented by others and easily fixable... such as the wire harness for balrog breaking due to the opening and closing action. Easy enough to replace... I rebuilt my own. Also had a transistor short that controls a flasher (documented by another just recently in a post). I'm not so keen on board work, so I just pulled the flasher, but I'll get to replacing it eventually now that I ordered a desolder gun. Others have switched out flipper coils for the APB versions... but I have been good with stock. Had the current #1 player in MN over recently and he put up a new GC score with a monster game that went forever (I forgot to turn off extra balls before he got here). He had no trouble hitting shots even after what was probably 30-45 mins or more. Overall, it has been a fairly rock steady pin for me for about the last 3 years and it get a lot of play. Mine wasn't HUO, but lightly routed and in really nice shape.

4 months later
3 months later
#6307 3 years ago
Quoted from Scooter108:

Am an original LOTR owner since they first came out, incredible game. How do you "officially join" the LOTR club??

<To the sound of trumpets playing in The background >

By owning LOTR and making your first post in this thread, hitherto reserved for members only, you are hereby granted full club membership with all rights and privileges forthwith and henceforth and shall be recognized as such by all card carrying members when out and about and shall be expected to greet each other with the official handshake of Middle Earth. A membership packet will be mailed out posthaste with more details.

4 weeks later
#6376 3 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

Hey, new to the "club" just got my LotR up and running. I was wondering if anyone else thought it was too loud? I have my volume on "1" and when you get a few modes going you can hear it through the whole house.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-volume#post-1316781-parent

8 months later
#7129 2 years ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Thanks I'll give it a whirl, I've opened him up and the switch "prongs" are lose within the switch so I think it just needs replacing. It's working intermittently so just a lose connection within the switch. Thanks for the tips

The most common problem with the Balrog switch is that the wires going down the post get twisted back and forth over and over as he moves in and out and eventually break. Search in this thread and you’ll see lots of advice how to replace. I had to do it on mine when I first got it years ago due to intermittent response from the switch.

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