Karl did the hidden "Bash Gary (Stern)" mode in LotR on his stream tonight.
(Topic ID: 112137)
Linked Games
Lord of the Rings
Stern, 2003-
Lord of the Rings Limited Edition
Stern, 2009
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Quoted from adrock:How difficult would it be to install a set of these adhesive decals over an original LOTR? I didn’t know if sanding and priming would be necessary given that the original art is screen printed? I’m assuming that the machine need to be laid on its side and back to prevent slippage during adhesion.. would the playfield and head need to be removed? TIA
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/lord-of-the-rings-pinball-cabinet-decals/
You could do it without removing the head, but it would be annoying. Basically you'd take the hinge off one side, do that one, then put the hinge back, then do the other side. You have to take the playfield rails off anyway, and no lockdown bar, so glass has to come off, too. Definitely need to do normal cabinet prep of sanding and priming, so it will be messy. Might as well do it right and just strip it down, prep, decal, and re-assemble.
8 months later
Quoted from Ten31:When my LOTR has been on for a while it starts to have issues where it thinks the coin door is open and starts to bounce between open and closed very quickly. Wiping out the high scores and other settings. I checked the memory protect switch for continuity and it seems fine. This video shows the issue. Any ideas what's going on?
Maybe battery leakage? Check the area inside the backbox in the upper right where the 3 battery pack is. If that's leaking it can cause havoc with the electronics with all kinds of weird problems. Any green/white haze around there on the pack or the circuit board? When did you last change the batteries?
1 month later
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Pinball life actually sells the high strength coils on the LOTR page which sounds like are possiblly already in the game. Not that they don't sell a version of the 22-900 coil which is what came in stock but it's listed under a spooky coil. I would check what coils are already in there before you do anything. You basically have 3 options; stock coils, the APB medium strength coils, or the PBL high strength coils.
I always advise (from personal experience with all 3) to never buy the PBL high strength coils as they are far too strong. The APB coils can be found on eBay when they have them in stock which I highly recommend.
The Tibetan Breeze flipper plug and play cooling kits will finally be available for all Whitestar and SAM-based Stern pins within a month or so as that's the next system I'm concentrating on supporting.
With active flipper coil cooling the kit provides, you can put stock flipper coils back on and have the same strength for as long as you play the game without losing power. The need to put over-powered flipper coils on so you have enough power to make the ring shot when you really need it later in the game will disappear.
Quoted from glpinball:My left flipper buzzes or hums when I hold it. Sounds like could be the coil. Any cause for concern?
Check to see if the coil stop needs replacement and/or tighten flipper plate all the way around. You can also use rubber o-rings between the flipper plate and playfield to dampen the sound. It doesn't hurt anything, it's just annoying.
Quoted from glpinball:Just replaced the stop and sleeve. Ok as long as it's not gonna fry something.
Before or after the buzzing started?
Quoted from Pinkitten:Ok LOTR friends. I goofed and broke a prong on my (White Star) sound board trying to install Pinsound. It’s the microprocessor at U209. Are these available anywhere, or do I need a skilled person to repair it? The chip refused to come out after 19 years in place, and I bent a few prongs. After straightening they wouldn’t cooperate, and one got brittle and broke off. Ugh. No sound for me for awhile.
[quoted image]
EBAY has them.
The only thing to be wary of is fakes. Chip fakes are a thing on ebay. But that seller's feedback is 100% on over 1000 sales, so I think it's safe. Bonus is he's in your neck of the woods, so maybe 1-2 day shipping!
Quoted from drummermike:My ring is not working properly. It seems to hold the ball for a second and then releases. It did not register when I went to destroy ring. The ball went through three times and nothing happened. The spinner switch is working. The opto transmitter is lit (red). I replaced the opto receiver and the opto board. The fuse is good. Looking at the ring magnet test, opto switch 47 is solid.
Does the opto trigger in switch test mode when you interrupt it with your finger?
Then that's where your problem is - the optos or the opto board they plug into.
While in switch test mode, try adjusting the alignment of the optos - they may just be shooting or receiving past each other so they can't make a beam. Does the switch test graphic have a solid square where that opto is on the switch test mode map (post a pic if you're not sure and I can look at it)? If so that means the opto is constantly triggered - beam "broken" which indicates misaligned optos, bad optos, or bad opto board. Start by checking alignment.
If you're in switch test mode and live-aligning the opto and can make it trigger while moving it, then it's likely just an alignment issue.
Quoted from drummermike:The opto board and opto receiver are new. I will do some testing now. Thanks.[quoted image]
Go to the switch test mode, not magnet test. Take a picture of that screen.
Also, while in switch test mode, spin the spinner at the bottom of the ramp and note if the switch on the map registers a square on and off while it spins. If that switch isn't registering, it won't turn the magnet on (I don't believe, it's been a while...). That one may be as simple as bending the switch blade so it triggers the switch more reliably as the spinner turns.
Quoted from drummermike:The transmitter opto is always red. There is no way to change the alignment. I took out the receiver and moved it around. No change.
The spinner switch is working. The switch after the magnet is also working.
[quoted image]
So your 47 opto is not registering - it's stuck in beam broken. Let's see a nice pic of the opto board with the power on. When you changed the board, are you sure you didn't plug in the optos (send/receive) backwards into the board?
LOTR_SW_47 (resized).jpg
Also, take the fuse out at F20 and test it with a multimeter (don't do this while in the machine and powered on - turn it off, remove fuse, test). That's the ring magnet. Make sure it's 4A. Early ones were 3A and Stern changed the requirement to 4A later in the runs.
Quoted from drummermike:[quoted image]
Can you do that board with the machine powered on and the door closed to make sure the LED at L1 is lit?
I guess I skipped over the part where I ask if you have a multimeter. Do you have a multimeter?
Quoted from drummermike:It is not lit with the door closed. Should it be red? I have a meter.
Close the coin door and do the switch test again with the switch test screen and interrupting with your finger. See if it changes.
Just be aware that with the coin door closed all the coils are live.
Quoted from drummermike:No change when interrupting.
Picture of board with door closed.[quoted image]
There's a problem at the board, or maybe the photo lighting is too bright. The LED at L1 (by the big connector) should be brightly lit and then go dim when the switch is triggered. It's not lit at all it doesn't look like. Is that the case IRL?
Quoted from drummermike:It is not lit. The board is new today.
I have the original board.
I'm trying to find the power schematic for that board to make sure that large connector actually is powering the board or if the problem is before that board with the power. Is there any indicator printed on the circuit board on the other side of the connector not visible in the picture to indicate what the 4 pins are (12v, gnd, etc)?
Quoted from drummermike:I put the old board in and now it works! New board from Marco does not work.
There you go then!
Double check your magnet fuse at F20 on the board in the backbox is good (continuity out of the machine, check with multimeter in continuity mode) and that it's 4A then play on!
Quoted from drummermike:Thanks for all your help! Sometimes I make things more complicated than they should be.
We've all been there at some point. It's why it's best to replace one component at a time, then test, simplest component to most complicated until you get the thing you're trying to address fixed. Doing multiple at once causes outcomes like this that just confusify when one of them turns out to be a problem in itself.
Enjoy the game!
Quoted from F-2NIRO:if I understand correctly you replaced your opto card and it does not work, when I see the reference of your opto card, it ends with 01 whereas on lord it must end with 00, the card you have is generally assigned at Ripley's bilive it or not.
one of the opto connectors is reversed between anode and cathode, either unsolder and invert the wires of the corresponding opto LED, or remove and return the plastic key to the opto card so that the tab is the other way round, it is the two-pin connector J2 which is concerned.
Marco just says 520-5239-00 was replaced by 520-5239-01. You're saying that it's not actually a direct replacement because the J2 A-K are reversed on the 01 and need to be flipped to work with LotR like the -00 did?
EDIT:
Pictures of the -00 and the -01 board added to demonstrate that the Anode (A) and Cathode (K) leads are reversed on the -01 board for J2 and J4.
520-5239-00-annotated (resized).jpg520-5239-01-annotated (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from Golgotha:My LOTR has been flawless up until yesterday. When I turned it on after about a week It started up with a very strange that I was not prepared for. I heard Gandalf's voice say Danger and something not right and the game then showed TILT. I powered off and back on and it went to TILT. I turned it off and waited longer and reseated all connectors and pressed on all socketed chips and the game booted up fine and my friend and I played probably 10 games or so with no issue and then during last game it displayed "TILT" cabinet was not pushed at all, and it always warns in game when pushed. Any idea where to start? I need it back to normal for SuperBowl/Birthday Party on the 12th.
If the tilt bob isn't jammed or the ground wire loose, check the area below the battery pack on the system board in the backbox. If you had a prior leak or are leaking batteries now, it can make strange things happen.
1 week later
Karl DeAngelo is streaming this now...
https://www.twitch.tv/iepinball
(Just finished Valinor on ball 2. Still going)
LotR_stream_2023-02-15 (resized).jpg
Karl's also doing impressions tonight. Here's his impression of the SUPER JACKPOT callout from Wheel of Fortune.
https://clips.twitch.tv/LuckyDignifiedPuppyTBCheesePull-CKU_F6F6kWz2-FTV
Quoted from ryandimx:This is my second set of the sillyoldelf blades. They have been on for a few months.
The first set got destroyed because they kept falling off.
I have blades on all of my games and none of the thicker ones from other companies have ever come off.
Anyone else having this issue?
[quoted image]
Stick some 3M 467MP on the back. Problem solved.
Quoted from Jay_Killjoy:Working through my list of issues on my new LOTR... I searched for this one on here, no luck. Any ideas?
The trough eject is too strong which causes the ball to travel a few inches up the shooter lane, by the time it settles over the shooter lane switch the game registers it and freezes the skill shot insert as if the ball was soft plunged. I can't seem to find a way to lower the eject power.
Did you check the coil to make sure someone didn't put the wrong one in for the trough eject somewhere along the way? It's supposed to have a 26-1200 (090-5044-00T).
Quoted from Tommy_Pins:Well it finally broke. Any idea where to get a new one? I’ve looked at the usual sites and didn’t see any
[quoted image]
EDIT: Looks like someone sells it separately, so you're in luck.
The domestic places I checked were out of the full set, but pinball center has it:
1 week later
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Trying to figure out why some weird issues are happening with my game.
First off, is this switch test normal?[quoted image]
The 4 closed switches are the balls in the trough, so that's normal. If you're in switch test mode, does pressing switches around the PF register properly on the screen?
Have you changed your batteries recently? Are you the first owner, or could it have had battery damage before you got it. Battery damage if not cleaned up properly will keep eating traces and cause the machine to do weird things and eventually die.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:I installed NVRAM a couple of years ago when I got it.
In the mode shown in the above pic, when I press the flipper buttons, nothing shows up.
Can you confirm what mode I should be in for the tests, so that I would see the switches activate as I trigger them?
Thanks,
You want to be on the DIAG-> SW -> TEST menu to see them activate in real time. It looks like you're on the DIAG->SW->ACT menu which just shows you which switches are active. Check on on the SW->TEST menu to see if your switches update (try more than just flippers, with the glass off, hit targets, slings, rollover switches, etc to try to isolate where the problem is)
Quoted from blizz81:I’ve had this machine for 10 years and I think this is the first time I’ve noticed this rod that swivels on the right side of the cabinet. What’s it for?
[quoted image]
Playfield prop. To hold it up while you work on it. Similar to a car hood prop.
Quoted from nibaliba:Made a custom fellowship topper for my LOTR.
[quoted image]
The Eye of Sauron tells the time? Inventive.
1 week later
Karl DeAngelo was streaming LotR through Valinor tonight. After he was done he demonstrated the easter egg Keith put in the game out of frustration with Gary's edict that the Balrog must be seen every game (it's near the end of the stream). Pretty funny.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1766431416
LotR_2023-03-15 (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Juneau, WI
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