Quoted from fordtudoor:

As the new owner of a LOTR I am putting together a list of mods that I would like to purchase blockquote>

Quoted from Bantam:

Look on Amazon. I got mine on there. I looked a few minutes ago and there were some. amazon.com link »

Quoted from BigBlockFever:

Had my LOTR about 2 weeks now and developed a couple issues im hoping someone can help me with.when starting a new game and during play the ball trough constantly ejects even with no ball ready,on start up it quickly loads all the balls at once.2nd problem started tonight in the #5 vertical upkicker( to the right of planatir)lost the ability to eject the ball hard enough to keep it in play and will eventually stack up all the balls there.I new this would be a game that requires attention from time to time to keep it crisp,any suggestions?

Quoted from Beyndtstng:

Were you the one who bid $120 on eBay for them?

Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Something for everyone with Hobbit and LOTR.
Any tips of brightening up the LOTR play field? This game is on the dark side for sure

Quoted from rai:

can you guys make the ring shot from the right flipper easily?

Quoted from Neal_W:

Same here, however the original coils fade as they heat up with long play. What did you go with??

Quoted from Timmah:

I rebuilt the flippers on my LOTR (keeping the presumably original coils) and now they are really just stupid powerful - problematically so, even. In particular, shots up the Legolas ramp from the right flipper tend to go flying off the rails just past the spinner about 70% of the time, with tons of glass-smacking air-balls.
Is it possible I have a flipper alignment issue? I had the flippers dead-centered pointing at the holes and advancing them slightly from there seems to have reduced the problem somewhat, but that doesn't seem to look right to me (seems to play fine, though).
There are the flipper settings in the menu - presumably I could use those to de-tune a little bit, I guess... any other suggestions?

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

If two balls ever get stuck in the ring magnet, turn the game off immediately. If you don't you will blow a fuse and maybe worse, a transistor. That's why some people go into the settings and change DTR to single ball, to alleviate the risk. Sounds to me like you have zero problem with your magnet. Seems more like a lack of flipper power. Rebuild your flippers if you have not. Check to make sure your game is not set up too steep. And make sure the playfield is clean. I do not recommend the PBL stronger flipper coils as you may experience broken plastics like I did.

Quoted from DatNoobAdam:

If it doesn't do it all the time, but seems to do it only when it doesn't kick the ball all the way up smoothly the same time and comes back down into the trough. Would that still be the opto? It seems to be working good looking in on it.

Quoted from AUKraut:

Replaced the fluorescent tube in my backbox with an LED backboard using 3528 60 leds/m cool white & yellow LEDs, wired to the 12VDC accessory circuit near the coin box. Backbox looks so much better, more natural and even!!! My iPhone makes it much more blue looking than it is.

Quoted from Pinzap:

Went to the Pinball Life part yesterday at Expo... great event and a fun time.
Also picked up one of these middle ring ramps that had been unavailable for quite some time. I know a few others had been looking for this part… So thought I would alert the club.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4723

Quoted from pipes:

So, I bought a 2003 LOTR a couple of months ago and decided to do a bit of a restoration job on it....
-Installed full cabinet decals
-Full brass armour
-Re-painted the inside of the cab black
-POTD mod
-Installed Comet LED kit with LED OCD board
-And a few other things
It turned out great! I'm very happy with the result.
There are a few issues however. When I first got the game it would do a ball search on start-up every single time. Also it wouldn't register drains and kick two balls into the shooter lane about 50% of the time. Did some research and found that it could be the optos or another switch on the ball trough that went bad. Anyways, I decided to buy the entire trough assembly from Marco because I have no patience and figured it would be easier to just swap the entire thing out...problem solved. I finally get everything back together a couple of days ago and right off the bat...ball search on start-up. I was thinking that maybe this is what 'older' Sterns did since I only have experience with their newer games. Played a few games and I'd see a message once in a while on the DMD saying that a ball is missing and now I'm getting two balls kicked into the shooter lane from time to time. It's basically the same issue I was having before....nothing has changed. I'll have a game here and there where there are no problems at all so it's not consistent with every game. The one constant though is the ball search on start-up. That happens 100% of the time.
Any thoughts?

Quoted from DaveH:

First, congrats on having a great game! I love when that happens.
However, I’m going to get a bit particular about the rules. Gollum doubles and halves depending which personality he is at the time. And it switches back and forth. So you didn’t double TABA, you 1.25x TABA unless you timed up your shots.
When you start it, it’s Gollum, and all the shots are doubled. Then 7 seconds later, Smeagol shows up and your scores are halved. You can hear the sound calls and see it on the DMD when it switches. It’s a crazy scoring that works out to be 1.25X if you score the same in both sides. So if you wait for Smeagol to leave and Gollum to show, then make the shot, it’s doubled.
Sorry to nitpick it. It’s just another side of LOTR that makes it exquisite.

Quoted from Morhaus:

So I replaced this switch with the Star Trek one. It passed the switch test, by now the gimli coil sets of a malfunction. It pumps up several times.
What did it do? Reverse wires? Only reconnected wires to the switch. Didn’t pay attention to that, by figured If passed the switch test it was fine.
Help.

Quoted from Morhaus:

Just had the wires the wrong way. Needed to adjust the switch a bit so it would trigger better, but I believe I have it back to normal.....thanks to you all.
Now I have to figure out if I can replace inserts with LED without getting any ghosting...looking like no after I replaced 3 green ones (2 outer lanes) and the green lock light.

Quoted from Morhaus:

Is it okay with just the Ocd board?

Quoted from HughesDForce:

Do any of you have tips for aiming/aligning the Ring ramp? Most of the Ring shots on my game bounce out, and multiple attempts at adjusting the ramp haven't improved things.

Quoted from RVApinballer:

Again with the Gimli VUK Switch topic haha:
My super low plays LOTR LE has an intermittent gimli switch. Maybe 60% of the time it registers but otherwise can sit in there with no response. I'm guessing the micro switch is fine(but maybe not?). I have a spare switch. But would rather adjust the fork actuator and save $10 if I can. Anybody had luck with adjusting the original actuator?

Quoted from RVApinballer:

Is there a trick to adjusting an actuator like this? I always seem to do more harm than good trying to adjust actuators.

Quoted from PinballCharlie:

Ok, so I am working on a much better alternative to Mt. Doom than just the stock decal image on the backboard (it's been driving me crazy for years). I have the design mostly done, but am looking for a 5v or 12v (5v preferred) connection that is constantly on (not tied into GI) and common to Whitestar.
I can tie into a GI lamp on the backboard really easily using a Matrix connector, but the mod is MUCH cooler with the glow of lava always on. Correct me if I am wrong, but I think there is an available 3-pin Molex 12v connector near the coin door that is common. Is there a 5v connector somewhere that is commonly available on a a stock LotR?
I'd love to make these available but I am really struggling with the wiring harness I should make.
Any help would be appreciated!

Quoted from C_S_S:

What have people used to keep the staff in Gandalf’s hand?

Quoted from Junglist:

Looking for some tips on adjusting the ring spinner. Is this hanging ideally? Or should it be leaning forward more like "/"
To remove this and adjust the wire as it catches in one position on the microswitch do I just use pliers and bend the smaller section out? Was planning on using some oil on the metal arms to improve spin as well. Any other tips?

Quoted from jchybro:

Going to troubleshoot next weekend: the eject from the trough to the shooter lane sometimes takes 2 to 4 times before the ball ends up coming out. Has anyone seen this? Seems like it's just going to be an adjustment to the coil angle unless i'm missing something??? Any guidance is appreciated.

Quoted from Damien:

Wondering if someone can take a quick look at their game, and confirm if the speaker wires are the same as it my photos.
My TSPP has the black striped wires going to "+".
Would really appreciate any help on this.
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Damien:

So you have black striped wires going to "+"?
Do you know if reversing the polarity (as I had done unknowingly) could have caused something to go on the CPU/sound board?

Quoted from Junglist:

Looking for some tips - I'm about to swap out the RAM for NVRAM but looking at the existing chip on the board I don't see any notch. Is it marked underneath at all? Any other way to determine which way round to install the new chip?
Also any general tips so I don't mess anything up? I was planning to try prying the old chip out with a flathead screwdriver against the socket.
Thanks!

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Ok, installed the shaker in my non LE LOTR following the directions here:
http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/install-a-shaker-on-a-lord-of-the-rings-lotr-pinball-machine/
Fairly straight forward, new PAL, new 10.02 rom, piggy back the red/white wire, and hook up #5 on the J9. All that but no shaking still. what solenoid is the shaker? #24 "optional"?

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

True story, it was working the entire time. It's just so weak, I couldn't feel it. My sub shakes the game more than the shaker does. Once Lamprey posted the solenoid, I could finally test it.
I used the PBL shaker as I do in all my games. This might be one case where the red tremor might have paid off assuming it's stronger like it is in all the other pins.

Quoted from Lermods:

I have a set of the path of the dead figures. They are about $60 on eBay. I'm not greedy, make me a reasonable offer if you are interested.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Daditude:

What are the best (must-have) LOTR mods?

Quoted from netman63129:

Does anyone have the instructions to installing the Lermods Lighted Gandalf Staff? They are not on the website and Lermods has not yet responded to my inquiry.

Quoted from MANTO1975:

Hi everyone,
i installed a shaker kit into my LOTR LE today but the shaker isn't working, does this need to be turned on in the menue settings somewhere or is there a way that I can test it. The shaker kit is from pinball life.
cheers
Trevor

Quoted from jdroc:

When is the shaker activated?
I'm guessing at least:
* Balrog comes out and balrog hits
* selectively in DTR?
* When Barad Dur leans
Debating putting one in my LE but have never played one with a shaker in it

Quoted from pipes:

The standard shaker is perfect IMO.

Quoted from CLEllison:

I have the shaker from pinball life. It uses the exact same setup as the LOTR LE. Aka game code based. I don't see much point of using anything else in a game it was literally designed for and works perfectly. My .02

Quoted from pipes:

The Barad-dur shot and the multiball starts trigger the shaker for instance.
As for the pinshaker kits, I just feel that those are best utilized on games that were not designed to accept shakers. I plan on getting either those or the new pinsound shaker kits for my BSD and Shadow. Stick with the intended setup for games that have the shaker coded in IMO.

Quoted from BobC:

I was looking at the manual and it lists a 455 blinking bulb, but not it’s location...
Anybody know?
Thanks!
BobC

Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Who makes the best interactive back box kit for lord of the rings?

Quoted from Metroshica:

This is going to sound like a dumb question but what do those batteries actually do? When I bought the machine, the holder was empty so I thought it would be a good idea to put some batteries in it. I had assumed it was for storing high scores and settings but it stored them fine without the batteries in it in the first place. I haven't taken them out since so I don't know if it will wipe it.

Quoted from etien:

Hi, to install a shaker on an original LOTR what do you guys advice? Going the original update way ( can be found in pinballlife as the Lord of the Rings Complete Shaker Kit ) or the pinsound approach ( ? Do both shake at the same moment ? )

Quoted from oropuro:

What version is this running? Upgrading to 10.2 and adding shaker, do I need the whole package?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from davidsprague:

Looking for advice on back box led kits for LOTR. There seem to quite a few, some interactive and some static. I prefer interactive but it is a bit hard to figure out what is the best from the random videos that sellers post.
So far I know of Flipper Fidelity, Mezelmods, Lermods, Cointaker, Pinballdecals and Pinballbulbs. Very difficult to make a decision having not seen any in person so looking for opinions from those who have seen them. Thanks!

Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Hi all. Got a strange situation going on right now. I'm selling a undocumented HUO LOTR. Fella who sold it to me, claimed he bought it from Gilchrist Games back in the day, NIB where it stayed in their cottage until last year.
I fully believed the guy as it had the hasp and bar on the pin as well as a full unopened set of plastics amongst other things that tell me the guy's story is legit.
So now I'm selling it, and when I explained the hasp and bar over the front of the cab, people are calling into doubt how this proves it was HUO and not routed.
(I'm finally getting to it!) I would never intentionally mislead anyone, and I was just going by what I remember from learning when I first got into the hobby. Did LOTR ship with that security hatch installed from factory just as B/W's did back in the day? Or am I completely out to lunch?

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Positive goes to the non-banded side of the diode. Worst you could do would be to blow the diode. The diode is only there to protect the circuit board from the current induced by the collapsing magnetic field. Just connect the battery momentarily. I would think if you left it connected for very long that battery could get really hot.

Quoted from matt68061:

Think I could get by with a 12v wall wart? Its a 50v magnet correct?
Also, before I cause more damage…better verify…
Its got the diode in it… which side to positive?[quoted image]