(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 5,325 posts
  • 486 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by nogoodnames222
  • Topic is favorited by 255 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (2 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (5 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#941 3 years ago
Quoted from BeaglePuss:

You are the man!
I have some other things to order through Pinball life regardless, so this works out nicely.

The original screw has a serrated face, I assume so it will not vibrate loose. You might want to throw a lock washer on there.
amazon.com link »

Pinball Life also has these screws if you don't care which style screw head you use.

It may not matter much since Balrog doesn't have the same vibration a flipper would.

1 month later
#1048 3 years ago

I think the Balrog led is 12v so the fire led would not work. Comet sells this bulb, http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/5smd12vba9s.htm. If your machine is early production and you still have the 89 socket you can probably use any flasher bulb.

#1050 3 years ago

If the 13 SMD tower will fit height wise I don't see why not. You will have to change the lamp socket to be an 89 which is just the reverse of this stern service bulletin, http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/downloads/sb148.pdf.

4 months later
#1441 2 years ago

The manual lists the bushing for balrog as part #545-5070-00.

4 months later
#1691 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Thanks, agree with you on the cards thing: found one good single card I liked, but no pair that was great....

You might have seen these but this is my favorite set so far. The quality is great and I think the colors fit well with the machine.

20170718_134632 (resized).jpg

#1693 2 years ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

If you are card shopping, here are the ones I made.
Hmm, looks like the forum resizes the files... I can find another place to post them if anyone wants.

Those look great. I'd love to print a set and see what they look like on my machine. When you upload the images there is a drop down box where you can select Original Size (no rescaling).

Note: I downloaded the images you posted and they look like they will print correctly once I rescaled them to 300dpi to get the size correct.

2 months later
#1920 2 years ago

The wireform over gollum is mounted to two posts at the front with a washer and locknut. Mine would bounce out because one of the nuts had loosened and the wireform moved around, it needed a new 6/32 locknut. Loosen the two nuts, visually align the wireform with the center of the vuk hole and re tighten.

2 months later
#2095 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Please help,
I think I have an easy Balrog question. I just replaced the wiring that goes to Balrog's switch and lamp socket. It seems to be working fine, but the light keeps blowing. The manual says it needs an 89 bulb, but the socket appears to be for a 44 bulb. I was trying to use a Ghost Busters led 44 bulb, but I've blown 2. I thought 89 bulbs are wider at the base and wouldn't fit into the socket? I believe it's either the bulb or I wired it poorly. Balrog's light works for 1 game and then blows. Any help is appreciated.

Balrog takes a special 12v bulb with a 44 base.

#2097 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Thank you! It looks like they're out of stock and I haven't been able to find another good source for a nice 12v /44 bulb. Is there anybody else you'd recommend.

Looks like cointaker has a similar bulb.


Here's the service bulletin for balrog incase anyone wants to see it.

#2106 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Is a new socket needed? I bought the coin taker bulb but now I’m wondering if i need a new socket too

The service bulletin is dated April 29, 2004 so if your LOTR was built after that you should have the newer lamp socket.

Does anyone know if you have the larger lamp socket if you can just use a led tower flasher bulb? Would something like these fit and work?

#2134 1 year ago
Quoted from pipes:

Mine has the same and I've been wondering the same thing. It looks really faded when lit up and pretty crappy to be honest. It doesn't match the rest of the plastics. Looks like I need to find an original then.

Retro Refurbs has a repro arwen plastic. Little shop of games used to sell one as well but it's out of stock, maybe if you email them they will be getting them back in.


#2136 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

$45 seems like a lot of money for a single plastic...

I agree. Mine has a hairline crack that no one else notices and it bothers me, but not $45 bothers me. If anyone does have a scan and would share it that would be great.

1 month later
#2386 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I'm so confused when looking at eBay for the figures. Does anyone have a picture of the box or ad of what they bought? I have surfing gandalph and missing a few factory characters. Plus I heard you can buy the army of the dead on there

Search for "armies of middle earth". That is the series from play along that the figures came from.

Gandalf on Shadowfax
ebay.com link » Lord Of The Rings Gandalf The White On Shadowfax Armies Of The Middle Earth

3 months later
#2838 1 year ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Trying to do up my path of the dead. Got these post lightups but they are 12v and the potd interactive lights are 6v.
Probably not possible but is there anyway to bump up the signal or get something brighter than a 6v that would fit under the figures?
I'd like them interactive and not just on the 12v always on.
Below are pictures from my test bench run off a power switcher. They look a little brighter in the picture than how they really are.

Can you use the 6v led signal and a transistor to switch 12v for the lights. There are boost converters that would let you go from 6 to 12 but I don't know what issues if any that might cause running off of the switched lamps.

I wired up that circuit on a breadboard, the switch would be the light going on and off.
20180511_155951 (resized).jpg

Boost Converter
amazon.com link »

#2846 1 year ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Hmmm... If I would have tried a booster I would probably need one for each signal then?

Yup, one for each led.

2 weeks later
#2972 1 year ago
Quoted from Junglist:

Ok seems to in fact be a bad bulb - I'm thinking of just trying these as the Balrog flasher as they would be cheaper than trying to ship to Canada from the US. Would these work? They look pretty damn close to what I think I have removed currently.
amazon.com link »

Those should work, they look just like the Comet bulb for Balrog. #44 and Ba9s are the same bulb base and they are 12v.


2 months later
#3205 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Cool, thanks!
Can anyone help with this. Was trying to take Balrog apart, and the top of the bulb snapped off. When I tried to remove the base, it's attached by a thin wire.
What should I do?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The part that's stuck is a blob of solder. Try grabbing it with pliers. If it won't come free you can melt it with a soldering iron.

3 months later
#3501 11 months ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Need some help...
I have an EPROM chip Burner and i was trying to download the code to update my LORD, display and cpu, im still on the V6.00.
Any of you can send me the files, cant find them no more.

I have a burner coming for christmas and would also like a link or files if someone has them.

#3512 11 months ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Are they not available on the Stern site?

There's a listing here but I get a 404 error when clicking on download.


#3524 11 months ago
Quoted from Damien:

Trying to find details on what was changed in older code versions, but can't seem to find any information on it.
Anyone know where to look?

This link has the version 10 roms in a zip file and the readme with the code changes that were made for the different versions.


2 weeks later
#3569 10 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

Who says LEDs ruin the look of this game? [quoted image]

Looks good. What bulbs did you use for the gi?

1 month later
#3888 8 months ago

Are people using the LED OCD GIzmo with led's in the GI? Do they look fine without it?

2 months later
#4275 6 months ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Looking for some advice.
Looking at a LOTR to buy from a non pinhead
Only machine they own and made a claim it has only been played 15-20 times ever
If anyone can take a moment,was wondering how exactly I could be completely sure of that during inspection.
Obviously the game will be in nice shape and I will ask if they have a receipt as they also say they bought the game “long time ago for the basement”
What would a good price on this game stock and in that kind of condition
I have to pay a friend to help and we are in the middle of negotiations
I hate asking here just looking for specifics on this particular game since I’ve never owned one but always have wanted to

Good price 5k. Probably more like 5.5-6k in today's market. I would assume original rubbers so it's going to need a shop job and don't forget to check the batteries.

1 month later
#4432 4 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Funny amazing story. I bought a complete LOTR replacemt plastic set specifically for the shire plastic. Somehow I managed to.lose this piece. A couple years later I'm taking a load of crap to the dump. As Im unloading the crap, I look down and I'll be damned if the shire piece wasnt laying there. Couldnt believe it. I have NO freaking clue what happened let alone how it got there. I appreciate the adding posts and rubbers post. Very helpful. I do believe the shire plastic gets hammered from a poor Aragon ramp shot where the ball ricochets off the rubber posts and slams into the shire. I'm considering doubling the plastic and using belly button style pop rivets to secure with.

Have you installed it yet. If not any chance you could scan it?

#4457 4 months ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

No I have not installed it yet. Was considering trying to reproduce these just not sure how to go about it.

Get a good scan of the plastic so you have the artwork. Trace the outline of the plastic and any mounting holes on a sheet of paper and scan that as well, you can use that to create an outline file to have the plastic laser cut. It always helps to have something next to the plastic for size reference, a ruler works well. The scanned art will probably need to be cleaned up but then you can print it on water slide decal paper and apply it to the plastic. The results usually look pretty good. There are options for direct print to plastic but I've never looked into them since they seem expensive.

2 months later
#4820 69 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Well, learn something every day. I wouldn't have assumed that flashers needed high power but...you were right!
Yeah, just a dead flasher bulb. I still don't see the use of the witch king switch...besides lighting that flasher. Aren't ramps counted as successful with the switch on the sword lock anyway? Oh well.

If I remember correctly that switch adds to the souls you can collect from one of the switches on the path of the dead. They start at 100 and can be bumped up to 250 or 500 by hitting the white switches in the shire, palantir, spot ring, and the sword ramp.

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