Quoted from BeaglePuss:

You are the man!
I have some other things to order through Pinball life regardless, so this works out nicely.

Quoted from AUKraut:

Thanks, agree with you on the cards thing: found one good single card I liked, but no pair that was great....

Quoted from horseflesh:

If you are card shopping, here are the ones I made.
Hmm, looks like the forum resizes the files... I can find another place to post them if anyone wants.

Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Please help,
I think I have an easy Balrog question. I just replaced the wiring that goes to Balrog's switch and lamp socket. It seems to be working fine, but the light keeps blowing. The manual says it needs an 89 bulb, but the socket appears to be for a 44 bulb. I was trying to use a Ghost Busters led 44 bulb, but I've blown 2. I thought 89 bulbs are wider at the base and wouldn't fit into the socket? I believe it's either the bulb or I wired it poorly. Balrog's light works for 1 game and then blows. Any help is appreciated.

Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Thank you! It looks like they're out of stock and I haven't been able to find another good source for a nice 12v /44 bulb. Is there anybody else you'd recommend.

Quoted from PinballTilt:

Is a new socket needed? I bought the coin taker bulb but now I’m wondering if i need a new socket too

Quoted from pipes:

Mine has the same and I've been wondering the same thing. It looks really faded when lit up and pretty crappy to be honest. It doesn't match the rest of the plastics. Looks like I need to find an original then.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

$45 seems like a lot of money for a single plastic...

Quoted from PinballTilt:

I'm so confused when looking at eBay for the figures. Does anyone have a picture of the box or ad of what they bought? I have surfing gandalph and missing a few factory characters. Plus I heard you can buy the army of the dead on there

Quoted from ryandimx:

Trying to do up my path of the dead. Got these post lightups but they are 12v and the potd interactive lights are 6v.
Probably not possible but is there anyway to bump up the signal or get something brighter than a 6v that would fit under the figures?
I'd like them interactive and not just on the 12v always on.
Below are pictures from my test bench run off a power switcher. They look a little brighter in the picture than how they really are.

Quoted from ryandimx:

Hmmm... If I would have tried a booster I would probably need one for each signal then?

Quoted from Junglist:

Ok seems to in fact be a bad bulb - I'm thinking of just trying these as the Balrog flasher as they would be cheaper than trying to ship to Canada from the US. Would these work? They look pretty damn close to what I think I have removed currently.
amazon.com link »

Quoted from Damien:

Cool, thanks!
Can anyone help with this. Was trying to take Balrog apart, and the top of the bulb snapped off. When I tried to remove the base, it's attached by a thin wire.
What should I do?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from RGAires:

Need some help...
I have an EPROM chip Burner and i was trying to download the code to update my LORD, display and cpu, im still on the V6.00.
Any of you can send me the files, cant find them no more.
Thanks

Quoted from jedi42:

Are they not available on the Stern site?

Quoted from Damien:

Trying to find details on what was changed in older code versions, but can't seem to find any information on it.
Anyone know where to look?

Quoted from ktownhero:

Who says LEDs ruin the look of this game? [quoted image]

Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Looking for some advice.
Looking at a LOTR to buy from a non pinhead
Only machine they own and made a claim it has only been played 15-20 times ever
If anyone can take a moment,was wondering how exactly I could be completely sure of that during inspection.
Obviously the game will be in nice shape and I will ask if they have a receipt as they also say they bought the game “long time ago for the basement”
What would a good price on this game stock and in that kind of condition
I have to pay a friend to help and we are in the middle of negotiations
I hate asking here just looking for specifics on this particular game since I’ve never owned one but always have wanted to
Thanks

Quoted from CLEllison:

Funny amazing story. I bought a complete LOTR replacemt plastic set specifically for the shire plastic. Somehow I managed to.lose this piece. A couple years later I'm taking a load of crap to the dump. As Im unloading the crap, I look down and I'll be damned if the shire piece wasnt laying there. Couldnt believe it. I have NO freaking clue what happened let alone how it got there. I appreciate the adding posts and rubbers post. Very helpful. I do believe the shire plastic gets hammered from a poor Aragon ramp shot where the ball ricochets off the rubber posts and slams into the shire. I'm considering doubling the plastic and using belly button style pop rivets to secure with.

Quoted from CLEllison:

No I have not installed it yet. Was considering trying to reproduce these just not sure how to go about it.

Quoted from Gogdog:

Well, learn something every day. I wouldn't have assumed that flashers needed high power but...you were right!
Yeah, just a dead flasher bulb. I still don't see the use of the witch king switch...besides lighting that flasher. Aren't ramps counted as successful with the switch on the sword lock anyway? Oh well.

Quoted from K1ngFiasco:

That's certainly the feeling I got. I have no idea what constitutes low or high amounts of play on a game that is about 14 years old (seller claims to have had it since '06). I just wasn't sure if I was missing something that would be obvious to a more seasoned eye. Just a bummer to have a grail game be about 20 minutes away from my house but at a price that seems to be over $2k above market value.

Quoted from Yodamingus:

Hello
Picked up the palantir mod from AUKraut
A wile back .. it’s awesome and I love it ..
But It has an LED installed behind it
And when it’s activated it flickers on and off
Not the absolute worst ..but I’d love it to fade in and out as I believe should ?
I have incandescent bulbs
I prefer them on this game
Is there a way to have this one LED
.. actually I do have a LED Gandolf staff
So make that 2 LED mods
Fade nice like an incandescent??
I know there’s led ocd unit that I will look into but figured I’d ask for options and opinions
Thanks

Quoted from Yodamingus:

sorry Im not so quick to understand how i might wire this ..
Is there any way you could draw it out ?
what voltage should the cap be?
is there a particular value of diode i should use?
i guess the reduction in brightness is a small price to pay for no flicker
Really appreciate the advice
Thanks !!

Quoted from Yodamingus:

I see that you have a 220uf 16v on the bread board
Im having a hard time finding 320uf 25v that you suggested i see a 330uf 25v but im not sure of what that difference would be? 220-320-330?
I understand the voltage tolerance aspect but im not certain of what a difference in uf would mean in this application
i am now searching the internet i hope to gain some knowledge about it
But of course ill have to ask

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anything I can do to keep that post from continuously coming loose? I tighten and it lasts about 5 games.

Quoted from DystopicPinball:

Self made and 3D printed with clear resin.
Added inside a rgb slow fade led by Comet Pinball
[quoted image]

Quoted from Neal_W:

Are you timing your plunge with the middle light in the shooter lane? The 3 inserts select your skill shot. Orthanc only awards a skill shot if the center insert is lit when you plunge.

Quoted from Gogdog:

Sad.....the top plastic ring of my barad-dur broke off. I don't remember seeing any comments/posts about broken barad-durs in this thread. Am I mistaken? Anybody have an idea how to creatively reattach this without buying another one for $50?
[quoted image]

Quoted from blizz81:

My sword lock plunger started acting up after a recent light cleaning of my machine. Intermittent on firing to where when there are two balls locked and I hit a ring shot, on return it counts as a third ball lock & starts multiball.
Other symptom is it has tried to release a locked ball, plunger goes down, but comes back up quickly. Game eventually sat with a sword lock malfunction.
Hand-testing the plunger, it seemed to catch some, and I noticed a little sleeve here that appears to be cracked. When I shifted that a bit, operation got smoother and the game was playing better. I assume this should look different? If so what is the original part / what do I replace with? Did a little bit of searching but no dice yet.
(Should note that I don’t see any sign of trouble with the switches in testing with 1/2/3 balls there)
[quoted image]

Quoted from PBFan:

I remember seeing a mod recently that helps stop the light bleeding from the LEDs on the ring board so that it was easier to determine which ones were lit but for the life of me I can’t find it again. Would anyone have the link? Thanks folks.

Quoted from F-2NIRO:

Hello
is anyone knows where i can find the both hex spacer with the bracket ( red arrow on picture )
seems hard to find
Thx[quoted image]

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

First time for everything!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Pinkitten:

Ok LOTR friends. I goofed and broke a prong on my (White Star) sound board trying to install Pinsound. It’s the microprocessor at U209. Are these available anywhere, or do I need a skilled person to repair it? The chip refused to come out after 19 years in place, and I bent a few prongs. After straightening they wouldn’t cooperate, and one got brittle and broke off. Ugh. No sound for me for awhile.
[quoted image]

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I always assumed those type of switch arms were not swappable. Is there a way to easily do it?

Quoted from Marten:

My Gimli VUK fork switch stopped working. It's part number 180-5116-01 and everyone says I should have a few spares at home.
They are quite expensive with the fork but I figured I could just swap that over from the old switch onto a new body.
Does anyone know what the part number is for just the switch body alone? Thanks.