Photo: stashyboy

(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

9 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

10,197 posts
762 Pinsiders participating
Latest reply 22 hours ago by Jarbyjibbo
Topic is favorited by 360 Pinsiders

You

You are not signed in!

Find in topic

Linked Games

Lord of the Rings Stern, 2003
Lord of the Rings Limited Edition Stern, 2009

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Screenshot_20240406_121148_Gallery (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (6 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (4 years ago)

Post #4405 Service Bulletin 147 - fix for chattering/shaking loop gate that opens during war of the ents, in front of Orthanc Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #5383 LOTR documentation for silicone rings and LEDs Posted by Daditude (4 years ago)

Post #9244 TECH:PLAYFIELD Opto Driver replacement board warning Posted by PinMonk (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider judremy.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#641 8 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from swampfire:
Here's a cautionary tale, about how I turned a small problem into a really big one.
I noticed that my ring insert was separating on the right. I looked under the playfield and I could see that the glue was thin on that side (the side you can't see here).
Still okay
No problem, I thought - I'll just glue it down with some slow-setting CA glue. But I couldn't help myself. I just had to press it to see how loose it was on that side. Disaster struck: the insert popped out, and some of the clear and art on the "good" side broke away.
Noooooo
I've got it back in, and I can live with it for now (until I can get a new playfield):
Back in the saddle
The real tragedy here is that the rest of my playfield was still perfect. Shire, Gimli scoop - perfect.
What should have remained
Long story short, if you ever take off that LED PCB like I did, treat this insert like it's plutonium. I never should have pressed it from that side. Idiot.

I got you beat. My insert was floating in there. Not glued on any side and dipped at the bottom. I didn't notice when I bought it (I was new to pinball). Well, I decided to glue it in and didn't take the right precautions to level it out with a C clamp. So now it is still dipped there. What did I do? I chalked it up to a lesson learned, bought a playfield overlay, and played the game and had fun. You only live once. Get it playable, have fun, and don't do it again.

IMG_8085_(resized).JPG

4 weeks later

#704 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from stoptap:
Hey chaps.
Could some kind soul please supply me with a hi-res scan (or high quality photo) of the area below the Shoot Again insert (below the flippers) ?
I have just bought a very nice LOTR but as it is a UK model it has the frickin' stupid 'skill' posts installed. I would like to remove the bottom one and make a better fitting plug with a decal to cover it.

If you get a scan, please let me know as mine has some damage in that area that I would love to put a decal over.

#712 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

I will try to post shots of mine sometime. I used a mix of sunlight, warm white, and cool white where I felt each was appropriate. An orange LED flasher behind the ring is awesome to make the ring glow. Try it.

1 week later

#736 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from cfc0d3r:
Been having some issues with my Balrog not working. Upon further investigation, it appears that the connector for the power cable is not doing its job. Anyone have any idea what part number this connector is on Marco? I've found several, and while it's tempting to just buy one of each and test them out, I'd love to try and get the right part. Here is what I found on Marco. Thanks for your help!
1) http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10817-06
2) http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-12116-06
3) http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10818-06
4) http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10847-06

These may work:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1598

Tool for punching down wires:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1590

Seems odd that the connector isn't working anymore. Are you sure there isn't a break in the wire at the pivot point above the playfield? That is where it commonly breaks. I would check for continuity after you connect it back up.

1 month later

#796 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Sunlight LEDs are great with some warm whites. You don't want the game to look yellow, but rather give it a mix to slightly tint it towards yellow without overdoing it. I don't have a ton of color in my pinball lighting (I agree that many look like a skittles bag exploded).

#800 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Razorbak86:
Both "incandescent" lights and "warm white" on the color temperature chart definitely have a slight yellow tint.

I prefer my pinball to stay nice and cool with LEDs and it does. No incandescents to me and warm whites are too yellow for me too.

1 week later

#845 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Buzz:
I'm getting a coil malfunction on coil #21 that drops the white post that holds the balls on the sword. Coil works but when you get two or three balls up there it gets stuck and won't release unless you nudge the game to take pressure off that plunger. Any ideas or adjustments to fix this?

Check the spring under it. That spring has a tendency to get caught up into the coil and can cause it to act funky. I think there is an eclip or something holding it in place.

2 months later

#993 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from pinmister:
I would have to disagree with this statement. The Shire gets destroyed because of the momentum of a cascading ball falling off arwen plastic. The ball rolling down the POTD is far more frequent than the ball being shot at the Mystery target and then into the Shire. I am not going to install a "monstrous ugly metal thingy" because there will be no need with the diverter installed. I was fortunate to find a collector quality LOTR that had been in storage for 10 years and is basically new. My Shire is pristine and it will not get thrashed playing in a home environment even without all the protectors. The Mystery target is an offset, difficult shot and does not compare to a main playfield scoop target on other machines.

Basically we can either agree that the game should be played with a diverter to help with flow and eliminate damage to the game(from a bad design) or disagree- that the game should be played "As Designed" giving the player a level of randomness and increased scoring with increased soul counts while tearing up Arwen plastic and VUK scoop and killing the flow.
I am in for Jay's Mod as soon as available. I am also considering speaker lights with the ring-I think it looks sharp.

You really don't like to listen to anyone but yourself, huh? People showed alternatives that are not an "ugly metal piece" and proof that the game is designed for this. The plastic ramp is a bit better than the bounce down, but it IS part of the game. It's fine though... you can have your pristine game that doesn't play correctly (as designed). Have fun with it. Just don't push your way as the only way.

2 months later

#1206 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

OP
Quoted from skywalker:
Agree, LOTR is my only pin with bulbs, flashers are Leds, also try this use yellow bulb condoms for under the brass ramps

Really? Even the bulb above the ring wraith on the right ramp? That fade is why I left it as the only incandescent in the game. Everything else is LED with a mix of daylight and warm white LEDs.

#1224 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Neal_W:
Anyone have a spare shire VUK plastic number "-20" shown in the pic?
Let me know if you have an unused one or used unbroken one your willing to part with. Thanks!

That plastic breaks due to the bounce down from the path of the dead along with the crappy rivet placement. I removed the rivets and replaced with screws and nylon nuts and at the bottom where the screws go into the playfield, I put two L brackets that absorb the hit.

#1227 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from MightyGrave:
Did you have some pictures??

I'll try to take some better ones later in the week, but here is one where you can see the two little L brackets. They absorb the impact of the ball. If your plastic didn't already break around the left rivet, this should prevent it from cracking.

LOTR Left VUK (resized).jpg

1 week later

#1242 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from RobKnapp:
LOTR LE . LED Conversion

I can almost taste the rainbow.

3 months later

#1514 7 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Maken:
Tips no longer extend all the way back as they had been mushroomed quite badly and filed off. It makes it tough to hit the ring shot, and especially tough to DTR on 2-ball.

Do what I did, angle the ramp differently. Take it out of the machine and bend it slightly to give it a higher angle. This will result in the ball going directly into the ring. You can also use washers above the playfield, but under the ramp to raise it up slightly. No need for a new ramp (though new is always nice).

3 weeks later

#1558 6 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from pinstadium:
I thought I would posted this up on this thread as some of you guys might be interested in this mod. I had many dark nights with my LOTR and installed the Pin Stadium kit on LOTR. Here is a before and after, keep in mind that this pic is in a dark room and the camera made the playfield about 15% darker than it really looks. But you get the idea.

I can almost "taste the rainbow". I don't seem to have this problem with my machine, but that may be because I used daylight and warm white LEDs mixed with some oranges and other colors where appropriate. People seem to want to put blue and green into this machine, but outside the path of the dead I don't see a place for green and blue just doesn't fit. Just my opinion.

2 months later

#1768 6 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from thewool:
Apologies for the expense Gorilla but I think you might be happy when you play it I will definitely be sharing it so no worries about that.
When I upload it I'll do so as a wav file so people don't have to wait for the conversion. When it eventually goes on the Pinsound forum I think they convert it back to .ogg files to save site space.

Just don't forget about:
"There and Back Again"
"Valinor"

5 months later

#2342 6 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:
I've been meaning to ask: on the left "sword" ramp; is the balls supposed to smash against the cabinet wall when it goes up the ramp? Mine knocks against the side loudly every time I hit that shot. Am I missing something in this area? A rubber or a post of some sort?

I installed a longer screw and put a couple (2) of post rubbers on it. This gives me no knock and the cabinet isn't getting damaged anymore.

8 months later

#3304 5 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Damien:
The Action Pinball one seems to be the right part, seeing thelat it is referenced as the Balrog replacement, and also the lugs and mounting arm are pre-bent.
Do you guys think this is the one? The Pinball Life one seems to be a standard socket, but not what would fit Balrog (without adjustments).
Marco may not restock, and I'd like to try to fix this sooner than later.
I'd appreciate your thoughts on this.

Personally? I think the pinballlife one is fine. It's power going to a socket. As long as you get the right size and right voltage LED, it should work.

4 weeks later

#3366 5 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Neal_W:
It has been mentioned that there is a delay and the POTD switches are not immediately active when the VUK shoots the ball up, so occasionally not registering in the top row is not unusual. (I guess that is done, so the VUK does not shake that upper playfield and cause a switch to register without a hit.)
It is also not unusual that the ball will sometimes hit the wall and bounce back down to the VUK again. There is a mod sold which is a flat plastic that lays in the upper right corner of the upper playfield to keep the ball from rolling back down the VUK.
Not sure why your VUK is kicking too hard. Did you check the coil and stopper and confirm everything is secure and looks OK? Does it have the same coil as your other LOTR?

I think there is an option to disable this delay though if you want to.

1 month later

#3493 5 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

ktownhero:

I have the playfield protector for LOTR. I, unfortunately, have a ring plastic (the large one in front of the flippers) that wasn't flush with the playfield which created a dip spot. I decided to get the protector as the playfield had been routed and was worn well in some areas (I bought it when I was new to pinball and easy to take advantage of). Regardless, it is great and while the ball may act a bit different, I prefer it to trying to clearcoat the playfield or get a new playfield.

9 months later

#4923 4 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Gogdog:
Thanks, as always! Yeah, seems to have completely fixed the issue, though maybe looks a tiny bit hokey (but you can't really see/notice it unless you are looking for it). I used 2 pieces since I think sometimes it hits the upper "space" too. On hand I just had some felt that you would use on the bottom of chairs for wood floors, which is pretty thick. And you are correct...when pulling the playfield out, it dips down so completely misses the felt. You could put most any thickness on the wall there and you won't have clearance issues.
[quoted image]

What you can do about this is extend the screw holding the upper playfield to the post and put two ring rubbers on the screw. This is not permanent and doesn't look bad. Instead of getting that rubber piece, you can put a strip of the beer seal for under the lockdown bar on the top playfield along the right edge where the vuk shoots out. The ball will still go over this rubber, but it won't bounce back down into the vuk.

1 week later

#5015 4 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Gogdog:
Ok, that's an interesting idea to use a longer screw and put some rubbers on it, though there isn't a screw for the second place I put the felt (the one closer to the back of the playfield).

I will try to take a picture later today and post it. Its the screw that holds the upper playfield to the lower one. It's in the exact spot that you put the felt.

4 months later

#5593 4 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from MSLONEKER:
My lights in the lanes are not working. changed bulbs everything looks connected beneath. i don't even know if these are triggered or just stay on. bulb schematics don't mention them or i can't find them. i didn't even notice them until i did some work on the pops.[quoted image][quoted image]

Those are just simple GI. Look around for other GI in the area that is out and I am sure you will find a loose wire.

1 week later

#5622 4 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from insx:
I found a plastic sleeve that I could drill out and fit to the post without stopping it going up/down and it changed things a lot. 5/5 shots missed, LOL. It seems to make it even easier for the ball to make its way around the post. I tried a post rubber but it was too fat.

There are fatter and thinner post rubbers. I have a post rubber on mine and it stops the ball EVERY time.

2 months later

#5925 3 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from DeathHimself:
I have only seen one for the outer ring of the circle.
ebay.com link » Pinball Lord Of The Rings Outside Ring Insert Decal

If anyone else needs these, we could try to save on shipping and make an offer to the seller on eBay. Let me know if anyone else needs this decal of the outer ring.

9 months later

#6824 3 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from TicTacSeth:
Anyone need the shire decal for the hole and surrounding area? I have an extra set. Would also trade for the set of target decals.

Please PM me and let me know what you'd want for this and how it looks. Want to be sure we are talking about the same thing.

1 year later

#8069 2 years ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from latenite04:
The bracket is 515-6508-00,https://pu-parts.com/metal-hex-spacer-mounting-bracket.
The spacer is 254-5008-13B. Marco has one, https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5008-13B, but it's just a 1&5/8 hex post covered in heat shrink to make it black. You could just order a 1&5/8 spacer and paint it or cover it yourself.

Make yourself the guide rail and scrap those posts and the plastic cover altogether.

10 months later

#9260 1 year ago

JDS

judremy

Pinside member

Farmington Hills, MI

13y 67,800 2,213 5 8

Quoted from Neal_W:
The 4 switches are disabled when the VUK kicks the ball to the upper playfield for a second to make sure no switch registers from the vibration. Sometimes a ball quickly rolls over the upper right switch before they are re-enabled and it appears like the switch is not always working, but that is normal.

Actually, this is a setting that can be adjusted so they don't disable.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!

$ 130.00

Gameroom - Decorations

The Lord of the Rings Banner version one 36 x72

Dijohn

From: $ 40.00

Playfield - Toys/Add-ons

Path of the Dead

RamMods

$ 79.99

Cabinet - Armor And Blades

Lords of the Rings PinBlades

PinGraffix Pinside Shop

$ 12.95

Eproms

ROM LORD OF THE RINGS LE -GAL/PAL-U213 GOLD DOT

Pinballrom

$ 12.95

Eproms

ROM LORD OF THE RINGS -GAL/PAL-U213 BLUE DOT

Pinballrom

$ 79.95

Cabinet - Armor And Blades

Lord of the Rings Art Blades

Pinball Life

~~9,500~~

Machine - For Sale

Lord of the Rings

Anderson, SC

SCJoe

$ 45.95

Eproms

ROM LORD OF THE RINGS LE -SOUND

Pinballrom

$ 200.00

Lighting - Interactive

Interactive playfield lighting for Lord of the Rings

Professor Pinball

From: $ 182.00

Playfield - Toys/Add-ons

Gloom and Doom Combo for Lord of the Rings Pinball

PinWorlds

$ 25.00

Playfield - Plastics

Lord of the Rings Alternative Replacement Plastic Piece

ULEKstore

$ 30.00

Cabinet - Other

3D Coin Reject Buttons - Hobbit / Lord of the Rings

Rocket City Pinball

$ 8.99

Lighting - Led

Lord of the Rings path of the dead LED Kit

Mitchell Lighting

9,000 (Firm)

Machine - For Sale

Lord of the Rings

Ronkonkoma, NY

Drewsloane

$ 130.00

Gameroom - Decorations

The Lord of the Rings Banner version two 36 x72

Dijohn

$ 49.99

Cabinet - Toppers

Lord of the Rings Pinball Hologram Micro SD card ONLY

Lighted Pinball Mods

€ 7.50

Playfield - Decals

3 target decals Lord of the Rings

Pin-Decals

From: $ 33.00

Gameroom - Decorations

Game Room Decor: Lord of the Rings, by TurboFox Photography

Rocket City Pinball

From: $ 218.00

Lighting - Backbox

Lord of the Rings Pinball LED Strip Backbox Light Kit

Lermods

From: $ 93.00

Playfield - Toys/Add-ons

Lighted Volcano Mod for Mt.Doom - Lord of the Rings Pinball

PinWorlds

10,000 (OBO)

Machine - For Sale

Lord of the Rings

Deer Park, NY

Redline11

10,400 (Firm)

Machine - For Sale

Lord of the Rings - HOME USE ONLY

Juneau, WI

pcprogrammer

$ 18.95

Eproms

ROM LORD OF THE RINGS LE -CPU/DISPLAY

Pinballrom

$ 50.00

Playfield - Protection

Lord of the Rings Glass Cover

Duke Pinball

From: $ 99.00

Playfield - Toys/Add-ons

Lord of the Rings (LOTR) Anduril Sword Ramp Add-On

RGP Models

$ 259.99

Cabinet - Toppers

Lord of the Rings Pinball Hologram Topper

Lighted Pinball Mods

From: $ 30.00

Playfield - Toys/Add-ons

Mt Doom mod

RamMods

~~9,900 (OBO)~~

Machine - For Sale

Lord of the Rings

Fort Lauderdale, FL

ArcadeGameSales

$ 39.50

Playfield - Plastics

Lord of the Rings (LOTR) Path of the Dead Etched Acrylic

RGP Models

From: $ 99.99

Cabinet - Other

Lord of the Rings Lighted Magnetic Hinge Covers-Yellow

Lighted Pinball Mods

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider judremy.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!

This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club?tu=judremy and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.