Quoted from Damien:
The LED looks more white/yellow, and the incandescent looks sort of white/orange. Of my 7 games, all of them are LED except for MM and LOTR. I think I'm going to change over my MM to 1 SMD warm, and I might keep LOTR stock because I just think it fits. Can't go wrong either way though!
I have put Comet's Sunlight LEDs in the GI and color matched LEDs in the inserts in all of my pins until LOTR came along. I have left the incandescents installed and moved my Pinstadiums into it. With the @Pinstadium adjusted to a slight orange/red tint everything is beautifully illuminated and the soft dimming effects of the incandescents look right. With a ColorDMD, Pinstadiums, and a Pinnovators Sub connection with external powered subwoofer I'm happy.
Well, actually, maybe I also need a POTD figure or two and some brass speaker grills and that cool Pinball Life spinner-flasher-eye-mod-thing and those cool wood Pingravings Middle Earth map instruction cards and. . .
Quoted from red-line:
I didn't use a spacer - I'll be tinkering today so I'll figure out what you mean and reinstall.
chalkey is referring to a flipper spacer gauge used to create an 0.03 inch gap between the flipper bat and the flipper shaft bushing when tighting the flipper crank assembly. I use a credit card cut into shape but you can get one from Marco (instructions at the link too):
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:
I just put the KOTD in the back corner of the POTD. I had the set but more than one just looked too crowded to me. I can still see the ball and lanes very clearly and nudge as needed which I like but it still has the presence of the dead figure without looking like a toy factory. Subtlety can get lost these days pretty easily.
That’s my plan as well. Any pics?
My Ring magnet is not grabbing the ball. Fuse 20 is good. Connector to magnet is good, though that diode stuck in there is a new on on me. The spinner registers hits. What am I missing?Added 6 months ago:
See post #4136 for update on resolution and a tip on how not to screw things up more...
Also, there should be a fuse chart stapled inside the backbox with the boards.
Congrats on your LOTR. I recommend replacing that LED flasher with the original red bulb for the proper eerie pulsing glow to go with the creepy ring wraith.
Yup, $6k. I paid close to that for mine recently but it is absolutely mint. HOU with a new hundred balls played, manual never out of the bag, and complete extras bag. It's a keeper for me. I have installed the Pinbits plastics protectors, Pinstadiums, ColorDMD, but am debating a set of Cliffys. Being HOU and now with me on home play I can't see it getting enough use for things to really wear, other than the shooter lane. The Gollum VUK worried me with its multiple tries to stick the landing above but I've got that sorted now. I've typically Cliffy'd my other games that already had a little wear but am undecided on this one.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:
My Ring magnet is not grabbing the ball. Fuse 20 is good. Connector to magnet is good, though that diode stuck in there is a new on on me. The spinner registers hits. What am I missing?
I double-checked the fuse and it was actually blown. I'm sure that I checked the correct one the first time but when I checked it the 2nd time it was indeed blown. I upgraded it to to a 4 ohm as I've read is recommended and haven't had a problem since. One bit of advice - if you go into the built-in help menu it takes you through a troubleshooting procedure, one of the later steps is to use a wire and short the tab of the magnet transistor to ground to test if the transistor is good and the magnet energizes. Mine tested bad (because the fuse was blown) but I decided to try shorting some nearby transistors to see what would happen. Well, what happened was that I got a spark and blew two transistors , so DON'T DO THAT! I had to replace the 2 transistors and the blown magnet fuse and now all is back to normal with no further issues after several games.Added 6 months ago:
That was a 4 amp fuse, not a 4 ohm. Doh. Thanks, lotr_breath.
Quoted from Yodamingus:
Any must haves ?
Pinstadiums. They make anything look like a whole new game. People say they're too expensive and that you can make the same thing for a fraction of the price, but most people can't. Most mods are simply window dressing and personalization but the Pinstadiums will literally make you go "Wow!" when you turn the game on after installation. Then when they turn off with the GI to highlight various modes and areas around the playfield it makes it even more effective. They are awesome.
Quoted from snaroff:
I used a zip tie to bind the wireform to the scoop that's connected to the pop plastic. This effectively removes most of the "bounce" in the wireform that causes the ball to bounce out.
Mine used to bounce back about as long as I would let it. My solution was similar but instead of the zip tie I loosened the applicable hardware and bent the ramp down in the same direction. It took a few tries but now a bounceback happens very rarely.
Quoted from Adaminski:
I think a friend has an appropriate replacement switch, which is great since Marco is currently sold out of direct replacement.
I have some extra Titan post rubbers that I will use to replace the battered ones for now, and order better ones, along with a couple switches.
Throw the old switch away but keep the metal actuator from it. You never know when it will come in handy. Also, you can order about any microswitch from Marco and simply move the metal actuator on the broken switch over to it.
Quoted from Adaminski:
Thanks again to everyone with the help. It was a dead switch, not the actuator. I had a new fork switch for the Gimli/Shire VUKs. I carefully removed the fork, put the actuator from dead "right ramp enter" on the new switch, soldered, put heat shrink tubing on, and successfully bench tested, reinstalled, and play tested.
Bravo. It's always a great feeling of accomplishment when one can fix an issue without a new parts order. Thanks for bringing it to the NW Pinball and Arcade Show.
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:
One question I do have, the shooter rod was riding very high
Check that your cabinet is level using the bottom edge at the front and back. Your playfield may show level but if the cabinet is twisted it will alter the shooter rod location relative to the ball.
Quoted from auspin:
It's all factory and haven't changed. Confirmed They are 6-32 and I believe 2 or 2 1/4 length.
Unfortunately I'm in Australia so it's been proving difficult to get the right one in the right length.
Trimming to the right length is easy if you have a pair of standard electrical pliers or a hacksaw. Mark the too-long screw, put a nut on it below the cut line, cut it, file it a little to take the burr off, remove the nut to straighten the threads. Boom - one custom and correct length screw ready to go.
This is a very cool mod, however if you have kept your LOTR stock with incandescent bulbs for their more classic feel then AUKraut's Palantir mod may not be for you. It uses a very bright LED that brings a different vibe to the playfield. Basically all the reasons why you haven't changed over to LEDs are all the reasons you may not like it. Super bright, abrupt on/off, flickering, and a cooler color temperature.
Quoted from chubtoad13:
I’m looking for some cool rules cards. I can’t find much that I like for this game. Anyone have one that isn’t on pinball rebel or pinballcards.com?
Pingravings has a couple versions.
Quoted from lhammer610:
Epic fail on a LED conversion. It is too bright. I figure I now have to splurge on an LCD OCD to make the transitions smoother, but many of the lights are still too bright. Problem areas include:
*The green lamps on the Paths of the Dead - switch back to green incandescents?
*The clear inserts in the semi-circle in front of the flippers - go to a yellow color?
*The yellow flashers up front - back to incandescent
*The wired flexible LED behind the acrylic globe - I will put a standard red LED in there.
*The one GI below the left wire ramp - that really should have a plastic covering it - remove it altogether? - Make a plastic for it? - would have to fit the plastic around the screw / wire holder to that ramp.
*I put in white LEDs on the ring in the back panel. They are slightly annoying. Might have to change them to orange?
What have others seen?
The LEDs are single SMDs from Pinball Life. I think they have changed LEDs recently, maybe gone from 3528 to 5050?
At the risk of sounding like a broken record here, this is a game where many prefer the stock incandescents, me among them. Buy a set of Pinstadiums, connect them to the GI only, ignore the flasher connection, adjust them to a warm white, and BOOM. You have to see it to believe how awesome the game looks. IMO, Pinstadiums are the single best mod you can do to about any game. If you want to build them yourself then go for it.
Quoted from Lostcause:
Having to move them when you lift the playfield really pisses me off as I forget!
Yeah, me too. I've reattached the swords on the right side figures a few times after forgetting about the Pinstadiums when raising the playfield. I have a set of the new Hover Mounts to install for this reason. Now to figure out where to place them...
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