Lord of the Rings
Stern, 2003
Lord of the Rings Limited Edition
Stern, 2009You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider flynnibus.
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Quoted from Propaganda:I "hear" iron man has shorter than normal ball times. That it is brutal.
Why would someone use this as the "standard" for arguing ball times? Clearly, it is not the standard.
Because the games came from a commercial setting where shorter ball times were the norm.. why on earth are you just trying antagonize here with these obtuse comments that put your head in the sand when there is 50+ years of history sitting on your face?
Quoted from Propaganda:It's these people who are doing this and giving it a bad name. LOTR DOES NOT have long ball times.
Compare it to an average game. It's average!
Call them out! It's bullshit!
you can sit here and scream all you want... but those of us with actual experience know otherwise. We put the game in tournaments with the very same players on other games in the room... LOTR plays longer than the other 12 games in the room. Fact. And this is with extra balls OFF. This is easy to tell because we play a round.. where we all have to wait for games to complete. The behavior is stark and impossible to ignore.
Don't believe us.. come to Pinaholics Anonymous on Saturday.. where these facts will be demonstrated yet again, like they have been every tournament before.
Quoted from swampfire:Why do people (including me) think that ball times are much longer on LOTR if the audits show that they're not? Is it because the main theme gets annoying after a while and it just feels like it's taking longer to play? Serious question.
We know from large amounts of tournament experience that the games do play longer. When you play hundreds of games over a large set of players its easy to identify games that play short, and games that play long. Because the long players screw up your tournament if not managed properly 
Quoted from Propaganda:So far, from the limited number of ball time / game time submissions submitted, LOTRs average ball times are not that much longer than most games. Average ball times are are 1-2 minutes as stated by the games audits. Obviously, better players have longer games than average sometimes. And obviously again it depends how it is set up.
Under 5 minutes, is hardly a long game, taken by itself.
On the other hand....
If a tournament director wants to maximize coin drops and payouts for prize money, obviously they want as many ultra short ball time games as possible.
As usual, money is the whole motivation for everything. Forget about how good the game plays. Get those 4 players off that machine so more coins can be inserted!
If not, why not just have a tournament with FEWER longer ball time games? I suppose that is out of the question because money is the whole motive.
No it's not at all in the VAST majority of tournaments.
Most tournaments don't even operate on coin drop (and even if they are on coin.. Rarely is the coin going to the tournament itself). The biggest constraint in tournaments is *time*. You are just talking out of your ass again and not from any actual credibility or experience in the area.
The reason directors are wary of long playing games is they back the system up and put the event at risk of running long... Which can be deadly when you are working in an area with finite operating hours or people traveling. How long it takes to complete rounds is the biggest chunk directors have to plan around.
Fewer games that play longer is the absolute worst thing you can do. It limits how many can compete, it limits how many times people can compete against each other before determining a match.
There is a reason top tournaments are not decided by one playing one game.... Think about why.
Quoted from Propaganda:We will just have to disagree then.
LOTR
Average 1-2 minute balls, per audits.
Average a little more than 4 minute games, per audits.
That's not that long of a ball or game in home use.
I could care less about its use tournaments.
Translated: I could care less about facts that don't support my fantasy
I recently updated my LOTR with titan rings and Cointaker LEDs. I document the BOM I use for others who wish to use similar. Full details are in this thread - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-and-rubber-maps-for-lord-of-the-rings
Here are some photos. LMK what you think!
DSC_1700 (resized).jpgDSC_1698 (resized).jpgDSC_1699 (resized).jpgDSC_1702 (resized).jpgDSC_1703 (resized).jpgDSC_1704 (resized).jpgDSC_1706 (resized).jpgDSC_1707 (resized).jpgDSC_1710 (resized).jpg
Quoted from stoptap:Tastefully done. Are you going to use an LED OCD board ?
Yes, that is with an OCD - pretty much 'required' IMO for LOTR. It makes a huge difference
Quoted from FlippyD:Clear rubbers throughout looks nicer than I would have expected!
Yeah, you can get color creative... but there is actually very little rubber in the game. Maybe color theme the posts.. but that would just draw attention to them IMO. There are really only four 'bands' in the game. The two sling shots, one by the shire, and one by balrog... and neither of those are very visible.
Possibly the small rubbers on the inlanes and right side above the outlane could be themed.. as the rollovers could go red or something. But I think they'd just disappear a bit. I like the clears on the rollover as they get some contrast without leaping out.
The flippers would be a creative area.. possibly even white flippers with some color.. but I stuck with my superbands and stock flipper yellow.
Quoted from RVApinballer:How does everyone replace the two bulbs under either inlane guide? You know, the ones you can't access from under the playfield because the flippers are mounted there...
From the top.. just disassemble the inlane plastics and leave them in place (because of the spot lights).
I just dealt with the t-nut for one of those this week.. A PITA because not only did I have to make the flipper base loose.. I had to remove it entirely. And those staples used in the paper are ridiculously long
Quoted from T-800:Anyone with regrets going to LEDs instead of the stock incandescents? Everyone of my pins is LED'd, but my LOTR just looks so natural and at home in incandescents.
Not with the cointaker warm whites. My TZ and HS2 look ghetto now with the other LED games next to them.
Quoted from JordanB:I replaced my Shire VUK and it's flaking out again less than 3 months later. It's weird because it clicks (adjusted properly) but flat out doesn't register maybe 15% of the time.
I saw in this thread that the diode should be removed from the pinball life replacement. I don't remember if I did this or not when I installed the replacement. Would it have an effect on the longevity/reliability of the switch if left on? Any suggestions on taking care of this once and for all? Thanks!
these Y fork switches have just been notoriously unreliable since the beginning. They fail often.
Quoted from FalconPunch:Wow. I was about to post the exact same thing. Literally replaced mine soon after buying. And 100 games later having the same issue!
The weird thing is is registered 100 percent of the time. Its just when it goes to kick the ball up it only kicks it half way in the air....
Tired about 15 times and then give an operator error. Thrn does ball search and kicks it up perfectly.
This is the same thing that happened when I got it and replacing it fixed the issue....
But what's actually happening here incorrectly? Why is the solenoid being so weak and what's it got to do with the switch?
Thanks.
Switch is separate from your Actual kick action. Look for loose bracket, wire on coil, etc. could be alignment or broken/loose wire
Quoted from FalconPunch:Thanks. The issue is so temperamental. Which is what happen the first time. The coil and bracket look ok.
It just refused to kick up at all just now until 'coil malfunction.
Went to take video and it's started to work most of the time.
I went into switch test and noticed that when I press the switch with my finger it makes the switch sound once. When I roll the ball in it seems to go off about 3 times before kicking. The gimli switch does exactly the same thing but never has any issues kicking the ball up.
Here is a small video in switch test.
» YouTube video
I have no issues replacing the switch again... Just don't want to keep doing it if it's something else. The switch arm does have a little bit of sideways action which I don't think it had when I replaced it.
Just bend the leg of the switch up more so it gets a more solid push down on the switch. Struggles with the ball's travel will usually be the kicker's plunger not being centered on the ball (or the metal guide out of alignment).
Quoted from Radius118:Anyone have any suggestions for LEDs on LOTR?
I usually use the Comet frosted 2-LED bulbs in warm white. I like these LEDs bacause they are just a little brighter than incandescent and the warm white is not "too" white. I also like the Comet parts because I think they are reasonably priced and good quality. That being said, I tried some out on the inserts in front of the sword ramp and they are *barely* brighter than the stock bulbs. Except for the white insert. Plenty bright there.
I also don't want to go totally overboard either.
Oh, and are the non-ghosting LEDs good enough to take care of the ghosting problem on this game or is the OCDLED board actually needed.
Thanks.
Why yes I do...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-and-rubber-maps-for-lord-of-the-rings
I use OCDLED
Quoted from lb1:Try it out and see. It is easy to access and remove. Looks like foam was used by others but it took some experimentation and adjustments.
In my case the ball was bouncing back 90% of the time so it was a real problem.
Now I have to figure out how to tame the crazy bounces I get off the Palantir target and also reinforce the target bracket.
Are you sure you have the correct flipper coils installed? Seems like you are fighting a ton of 'too much power' issues. When the game is minty clean things like flying off the ramp is common.. but it settles down. Are you fighting this kind of problem?
Quoted from paynemic:So I had the game of my life today. 5 ball game but the action was all done at ball 4. Valinor!!!! I dtr all 4 times I went there. Crazy game. Played off and on all morning. First ball I couldn't hit a shot at first. Then all the multiballs went my way. I got one ball stuck behind the Balrog so that helped me finish fellowship (but I did it another time too). Wild game. Too fun. I confirmed that after you make it to Valinor, it all starts over (meaning you don't get to keep credit for finishing the multiballs--- I started them all one more time and dtr but was told I still had to complete fellowship).
Which speaker inserts are those? PDI? Pinball.center? Someone else?
Thx
Quoted from pipes:Pinbits also sells a small plastic wedge that helps to keep the balls from sticking to the ramp. I was having the same problem and haven't had it since installing it.
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_48&products_id=463&zenid=4db2cdd9f52941d2b20850bb59a17dd9
Pics here:
https://mrtn.smugmug.com/Photos/Pinball/2010-04-27/i-9FdZDKF
Damn, there's just so many things you need to do to get this game playing properly.
Or just use the correct kind of balls.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:What! Wtf this seems like a fairly bad design flaw
Yes, people choosing bling over functionality is definitely a design flaw
Stop using the wrong balls.
Quoted from hawknole:OK, I need some help please. I replaced my Shire Y switch with a new switch because the metal Y broke off. I was attempting to adjust the old switch as it was not responding. The new switch worked fine for a couple games and then no response. I fiddled with it a little then got some intermittent response and now back to nothing. Bad switch or something else and if so what? I reseated the closest connector as well.
test with your hand first... also make sure you aren't over tightening the screws as that will cause the switch to bind.
test with finger... then adjust the rotation of the switch when mounted to ensure the armature moves enough to make the switch click. bend forks if needed to get more travel.
Quoted from Morhaus:Is it okay with just the Ocd board?
Yes . Gizmo is really for games with fading GI light effects. Not needed on LOTR
Quoted from Damien:Hmmm... So back to my question, would me completing Fellowship MB not have earned me my 6th gift, and the 7th could have come from the DTR that followed (which at the same time would have started Valinor)?
Thanks
you have to have the 7th gift and THEN start DTR
Getting DTR timing right and finishing it is the portion that really holds people back.
Quoted from PinsOnly:Follow up question to the Lights on the path of the dead and mode lights, there is a row of lights at the top of the backboard, were they all clear incandescent's? I think about 8 of them?? I'm just trying to get that original lighting feel back. Thanks, Dave
Yes
The game had green bulbs in POTD, and a red flasher on the right ramp. Everything else was clear.
Quoted from Damien:I'm going to be doing a full LED treatment on my game. Do you suggest going warm or natural/cool white?
Warm white all the way!
Quoted from Damien:Frosted or not for the GI? How about the inserts?
My thread and build used a mix of mini and frosted - see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-and-rubber-maps-for-lord-of-the-rings
I like to use frosted anytime there is a larger insert (arrows included) and two flex for even larger inserts.
Since I've largely switched to just using frosted everywhere instead of minis and trying to save a few bucks.
Quoted from Damien:Can someone who has stock lighting on their game post a photo of the lights on the backboard (modes, POTD, and that strip of lighting that runs across the top).
Thank you so much
Its all clear imcandescent except potd which are clear green
Everything is clear in stock except potd sign and flasher on right ramp
Quoted from Damien:Hmmmmmm... Trying to figure out what to do with that strip of lights.
I'm doing warm LEDs for all clear insets and GI bulbs (frosted for GI) and then green LED for greeninserts, red for red, etc...
The thread that has been linked shows what slight color accent looks like... some green over potd... red over mount doom.
I like clear retros for GI where the bulb can be seen.
Don’t use yellow LEDs... they look orange. Green can look off too compared to stock. I tend to use white, red, blue, and usually green... but may swap green for white.
Quoted from Damien:Just curious to know what pegs setting was default for the outlane post?
Mine was on the bottom (easiest) when I got the game, but I've moved it to the middle.
When I watch the PAPA Vlainor tutorial, the peg is also on the bottom like mine was initially, so I have no clue.
Mine was in the middle from the factory...
Quoted from JONESDS:Just not sure the few extra souls you get is worth it over the diverter, it's another stop/start process in shooting the POTD.
I see it as simply nerfing the game or not.
I've owned LOTR for over 14years and taken it to shows too. And my ball falls down to the saucer. I've put the petg plastic under the factory plastic and it's held up fine.
Quoted from C_S_S:Anyone have any tips for when the sword ramp plunger assembly is sticking such that when two balls are locked and the ball returns from the vuk or ring, it drops both locked balls instead of only one. I assume it could be grime on the coil sleeve, old spring, mushroomed coil stop or mushroomed plunger assembly or any combination of them. Anyone have any suggestions what is likely to wear out first? Or am I better off just purchasing multiple parts of the assembly? I'd appreciate any help you can think of. Thanks.
Just pull it apart first... won't take you long. More than likely just grimy or maybe the spring broke. Check its action in test mode too.
Flipper and pop bumper plungers and stops wear because of the high number of cycles they go through. Most other solenoid mechs don't ever wear out the plunger and stop. Just sleeves links and springs wear
Quoted from ktownhero:Naturally a good cleaning and waxing will resolve that, but does anyone have experience with using one of the full-field protectors for an LotR or LotR LE?
Not needed on a modern clear coat game in home use that gets regular upkeep. Just wipe down the PF every couple hundred games or so, keep the balls clean and cycle out when they get nicked, and wax it every few cycles.. and you'll be fine.
PF protectors are good for games with prior wear, no clearcoat, or where they get heavy usage like on location.
Quoted from ktownhero:Do they buzz like the stock ones when held? I'd buy them for that reason alone lol.
The buzz comes from the design that the coils are pulse modulated vs dual wound (like WMS). This means the different power levels comes by pulsing the coil on and off. If anything has any play.. like the plunger to the coil stop, or the coil moving around - the noise will be more prominent.
There will usually be some noise just due to the coil and plunger contact.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:As a follow-up to the post of Pinball_Gizzard, I'm going to do a one-time run of custom plastics for the 2003 version of LOTR (I know the Path of the Dead plastic will NOT fit the 2009 version, but do not know if the other plastics will or not).
Pricing is as follows and includes US shipping (will quote international shipping as needed).
- Path of the Dead Plastic with etching (2003 version only) | $46
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- Arwen Plastic (made from extra thick 1/8" extruded acrylic) | $22
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- Wireframe ball bracket plastic (single mount point plus adhesive to secure in place) | $12
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Total for the 3 pieces priced separately is $80 but if you order together, I will discount to $75 including US shipping.
Please PM me if interested in purchasing during this one-time run, and I will close orders in a week or so (I'll post updates regarding cut-off times).
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I'm curious how you are running the lights with that POTC plastic... is there other posts on that? It's kinda of washed out with the green LEDs in these photos. Curious about a POTD mod... but not just for the flat plastic alone.
thx
Quoted from PantherCityPins:I used Comet Matrix for the lighting. There are three green star post LEDs which are affixed to the underside of the upper clear acrylic piece with double sided tape. The wires run down underneath the laser etched path and aren't visible from above. The wires are routed out through the same slot the main connector goes through and then alligator clipped to a GI bulb under the playfield. If you wanted to link the lights to the flashers at the rear of the POTD you could do so fairly easily.
The figures are attached with the same Gorilla mounting tape to the top of the etched acrylic piece and just placed over top of the star posts below.
thx for elaborating.
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Anderson, SC