I just received my LODR yesterday. I now live in the Philippines and it was shipped from Manila to Davao, Mindanao another island 2 hrs away buy plane. I just opened up the playfield and checked everything out. I see some wires that were hanging, etc. Will be needing some pictures of the areas that I need help in putting back together. This machine was at a arcade and bought it at a very low price and I mean very low. It works fine but have to find some plastics as well. Playfield is in fine shape, just need to tear down the playfield and clean it up, waxing it and replacing the rubbers, etc . First time on this Stern Whitestar system and quickly went thru the system of tests, etc. YES, some stuff is showing up with switches, etc. Have to read the manual which is being mailed to me as well as found it online and downloaded it. As for finding switches, etc for a Pinball machine is impossible on this island. I have to order everything from the states or Australia and takes 2 to 3 weeks to arrive even by Priority Mail express. Hold up is in Manila customs which takes them about two weeks before they check it and release it to be delivered.

One problem I have is playing the game just about everything is fine but one issue is when I win a free ball after draining the other ball/s the games stops and will not produce the free ball to come out of the trough. So have to turn the game off and on to start another game. Only happens when you light up the free ball and then no ball comes out to continue. Any suggestions to look at or replace? Opto's? Thank you for all the help you guys have done on this thread.

Thank you guys and Neal for suggesting what to do. Just got on to check this the next day but yesterday spent a few hours of repairing stuff on the game. What needed to order, and more. Looked at the trough with the balls and cleaned the Opto's lights as well as other items to tighten up under the playfield. Wire off one of the pop bumpers soldered back on. Check switches to make sure all are operating. Learning the Sterns information and tests. Seems the light behind the translite stays on after shutting off the game from the bottom? Then have to unplug the game? Is this normal or what should I look at? I am not a newbie to the game business but been out of it in 1986 until this year. So this Stern Whitestar system is all new to me. Just have some wires cut in a couple places close to the front door. This is a 240 Voltage Pinball as from the Philippines. Will send a picture and will ask you guys for a picture back of the area if you can help me out here so I can figure out where these wires on the right side go if possible? Whomever worked on this game surely had no clue of fixing things. Parts (Spinner) missing as well as rubbers Tall one inch or so off the posts in 3 spots, wrong target size under the palantir ball and a few other items. Ordered several parts and plan to tear down the playfield and the backside of the playfield. Other Mods to do, etc etc as it will be a while to get all of this done. Take about 3 weeks to get a Priority mail package from the states so have to wait for stuff to arrive. Appreciate the help from this fine group. THank you again.

Ths LODR I got almost a week ago need some help with some wiring. In looking at the 5V/12V adapter on the right side of the cabinet, the two end wires were cut. Red double wires in the middle was still in the molex. Black double wires and believe a gray w strip (color?) was the ones cut as you can see in the pictures. In pulling the wires apart I think I found the wires that should be connected. Correct me please if I am right or wrong. The black wire is connect to a green wire that goes to the coin mech of the machine (see second picture) and taped off with another different color green wire not connected to anything. The other one black wire goes to the flipper switch contact which will stay. The remaining black wire should go back to the black wire molex that is left on the molex. As for the gray and Red strip (I think) that one you cannot see that it is attached to a purple wire and again goes to the coin mech and connected to a yellow wire that goes nowhere either. Should connect the gray wire back to the molex gray also. Am I right on this? Please advise. See pictures. After this, as for the yellow and another green wire where do they attach to that is next to the coin mechs? Will pull out of the machine that green and the other purple wire. My machine runs on 240V as I am now living in Asia (Philippines). This machine was in a arcade and was not used for many years just in there warehouse. After getting this one all done with the wiring I mentioned I have one more wire issue which should be an easy fix. Just don't have my multi meter as had to order one and not here yet. Thank you for reading this and if any help with info and pictures would be great. Thank you again, Fred

Lord wiring 5Volt 12 (resized).jpg

Lord wiring 5Volt 12 1 (resized).jpg

Neil thanks for the pictures and the help. Figured out the 5v 12v wiring which I was correct and already waiting for some Molex .93 connectors, etc to change this one out as way to short to do a solder job correctly. As for the coin door. You notice I think Chinese printed on a label on the door? YES the coin mechs are so different (machine is marked from Sterns for the Philippines so the hook up must be different somehow. I never seen these mechs in all my years but then again I left the business in 1986 and recently started up for a hobby here to keep active in redoing since I been retired for a few years.. As for the yellow wires leading to the coin lights, (missing the items) but think I have figured out the wiring to hook up once I get what I ordered. In my opinion I think they spliced the wiring to use the 5v and 12v for hooking up a ticket machine to issue those tickets for prizes but not sure.

One more thing I really need is the back light of the florescent tube stays on after cutting off the switch underneath. I followed the black and white wire and it goes straight to the front right box hooked up inside the metal voltage area. Can you tell me where the correct way these wires are where they suppose to belong to hook up. I finally got the Manuel yesterday and I see 1F/ME. Not sure where this is as have not searched the back box yet. I think that is it for the rest of the game as have everything else working I think for now lol. I am going to do a total refurbish of this game to bring it back to as new as possible and will be changing a lot of parts as well. It takes about 3 to 4 weeks to get Priority mail delivered here so will start after everything gets here. Will of course show off the game after its been all completed. Another one to be proud of. Next game coming is Sterns Mustang in May or June. Thank again for the help

Thanks again Neil. Not sure what the voltage is coming out of the transformer as here in the PI its 220V. Don't want to try and connect it until my multi meter arrives. Anyone knows what is coming out of that one? 110V possible? Thanks again Neil and appreciate it for the great clear pictures. Hopefully I don't have any other issues on wiring as I think I got it all down in viewing and what I see so far. Cross my fingers. Lol

Fred.

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Probably in the arcade for a night light how right you are Lol. Thanks for the picture of the schematic.

What did you use to do it yourself and how did you do it. I live in the Philippines and I would have to order it from stateside to get this done in a color I would like if possible. Thank you.

Happened to me a few times.

Thinking of adding LED's and was wondering which ones (package deal) I should get? I see others buy from companies and was wondering which ones and why you like them and how different from others that offer these. Thank you. I can always changed the bulbs back from time to time to change it up some.

Thank you all that sent back their suggestions. Chappie101, thank you for the flynnibus Maps. AUKraut, again thank you for the corrections on the Map and I still have not put in your creation of the Palantir Eye yet. Thank you Ktownhero for your suggestions I have so much to do to this LODR I picked up here in the Philippines as sitting in the back of an arcade machine for a few years. Reason being thinking of a kit and now thinking of the flynnibus ones to choice from is that living here in the Philippines it takes about a month or a little less or even more to get a Priority Mail package here and its expensive as hell to send. A large Priority Mail is close to $95 bucks to send. A medium is about $79 and small is $40. So I have to be careful of how I order stuff and try to order enough stuff to fill a large box. Thank you all again. Any more suggestions will like to see also.

Thanks for the information. After doing everything including stripping the playfield and under replacing sleeves, springs, flippers and cleaning the Opts. etc then putting back together the playfield LED's, DMD etc. I will stay away from Pinsound boards and see about getting the LEDOCD. So much to do but will get it done. No rush as I am retired. Just have to wait for more items to arrive as it takes about a month Priority mail to get to the Philippines. Will take before and after pictures of the machine when its done.

Having a problem with Lord of the Rings (Regular) as my DMD went blank. I noticed at times the screen would sometimes over the months go weird with just dots, screen half off and back on. This time, screen was fine playing a game and then a little scribble on the left side and back again and then bottom half went out and then top half and now blank Voltage test pin one was
113.9 pin 1
102.01 pin2
5V pin 6
12V (zero) as could be no 12V on this power supply? Pin 7
67.4 Pin 8
Replaced the cable (Brand new) reversing red side each way.
Could it be the screen itself as on the Controller board the Red Light is on. I do not have another Whitestar game to replace this with but I have a Sam Mustang and didn't look to see if I can change it. Don't think so. I will be having a colorDMD arriving soon to put in so wondering what is next if its the Controller board that could be the issue. Any help please? Thank you

This is a problem as the 12V is needed by your plasma display to operate, this voltage is fed through the Display Power Supply connector from the Power Supply board, but is not used by the Display Power Supply.

Pin_Guy thank for the information and Schematic. I ordered the colorDMD and also the kit which has the wires that will extend to the front right side where the 12V is to use and eliminate the power supply as well. This morning I was looking for a Matrix display and came across the reference that Alvin g (Pistol Poker) uses the same display. I have that pinball here and right away took out the LODR display and checked it out on the PP and it worked. So got to be the 12V on the display power Supply then that is not working. So when I get the colorDMD will hook it up the same way your referred me to. Will let you know when I hook it up as it might take up to 2 weeks to get out of customs in Manila before I get it. Hope that is the issue. Perhaps I will buy a display power supply board in case the colorDMD goes out and need to send it in for repair and then hook it up back to original. I sure hope that is the reason no 12V. Great people on this Pinside to help out. Thank you

Here you go. ebay.com link: Lord of the Rings Armies of Middle Earth Twilight Ambush at Weathertop

I use a Lyman tumbler with walnut media. It does a great job polishing pinballs.

What model tumbler do you use? Thinking of getting one.

What model Lyman tumbler do you use? Also untreated walnut media? I need to get a tumbler and need a recommendation

Thank you,
Fred

Thank you guys for all your replies.

Fastfred

Put in a Rottendog board for use as I need to fix the Power driver board waiting for Transistors for the Q16 (Flipper) to repair. Changed the diode already so just waiting. My question is that when playing the game my Left Vuk #3 and Right Vuk #5 seems to be the coils don't have the power to kick the ball up as it takes sometimes a few times (each Vuk) as well as one time. I added new sleeves and springs not to long ago while shopping out the playfield as well as new sleeves, springs, etc to have it play like new. I am wondering if these two coils would need to be replaced as possible lost some power? Also I notice very once in a while the game ends even when your playing. Possible the voltage on this new Rottendog is not up to par. Not sure of where to check the 5 volts on this board. Any advise? As for the old original Power driver board the Vuk #3 and #5 sometimes would not kick up as well but not like this Rottendog board.

Magnet issues. Does not work. Soon as I turn on the game the fuse blows. I have a new rottendog board about two months old. It had a 3 amp SB fuse. Not sure if I should put a 4 amp SB in like the sterns board. Spinner does work as checked. Put mu finger thru and the opto work. I disconnected the Magnet as I also added a new 3 amp and then turned on the game and the fuse did not blow. Should it be the magnet itself. Have no idea how to check the magnet or what the readings should be as I do have a multi meter. I also read possible the transistor Q6? what #? IRL540N? as not sure if that is the one on the rottendog board also. Any help appreciate it. I do have a new magnet here also.

I was thinking to same to switch the magnet. Will give an update if that works. Just wondering about replacing the 3 amp fuse to a 4 amp as reading is what stern recommend. Not sure as this is a Rottendog board I am using. Anyone else has a Rottendog board that did this? Thanks for the answers.

Still problem with Magnet. Installed a new Magnet and turn the machine on and fuse blows. 3 amp SB as this is in a Rottendog board. I am not sure if the transistor is Q6 like on a sterns board. First post I mentioned I unplugged the magnet and the fuse did not blow. I had a new magnet so I installed it and again plugging in the magnet the fuse blew right away turning on the machine. Then I pulled J8 off the power driver board added another 3am SB fuse and the fuse did not blow. So possible its the transistor on the Rottendog board? Anyone here can tell me if it is the same as the stern board Q6? Thank you for helping out here.

Fuses I got are not from Marco so they are 3A SB's as well as I have 4A SB's Now sure now what the heck is going on. Transistor possible bad Q6 if anyone knows if that is the one on this Rottendog board