(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

4 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (2 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (3 months ago)

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#1271 2 years ago

I got a standard LOTR on July 31,2016. It is my all time favorite. I am having trouble locating a PAL chip to use with a shaker install. Pinbits no longer has them. Coin Taker has the motor and That Pinball Place has both rom's. I was also recently told this chip is not needed to run the motor. Any help to clear up what is needed to get this pin shaking is welcome.

#1272 2 years ago

My Gimli vuk has the second new switch I put in. The design is poor. If it goes again I am going to put a switch in like the one in the Star Trek pro left side vuk. I will have to modify the mounting bracket by cutting out a slot for the new type switch. The ball will activate the switch when it is sitting in the bowl on top of the switch. I think this will be more reliable.

1 month later
#1454 2 years ago

The bottom of my spinner is forward and I have no trouble making the ring shot. I do have the stronger flipper coils.

I just replaced the fluorescent tube in the back box with a Cointaker color changing panel. It is so much better. I had to change the #6 holes to #8 by drilling and tapping to use the supplied mounting hardware.

1 month later
#1521 2 years ago

Setting your pins to your liking is the way to go. All my pins are on 5 ball but not on easy settings. Most are factory settings. I have mine set up for fun. I have not reached Valinor yet. Someday!

#1537 2 years ago

I have the stronger coils and think they are great. The game is still a challenge for me. I have played routed LOTR and the flippers in them seemed weak on some shots.

1 week later
#1552 2 years ago

I installed the PinGraffix blades, sword tip and shire patch. They look great. I took out mirror blades that came with the pin and put them in LAH. I don't care for the mirrors. I have PG blades in all my pins except LAH (none made) and TZ that had mirror blades when I picked it up.

1 month later
#1604 2 years ago

I have had a shaker in my regular edition LOTR for a few months and it is too violent. It is a regular motor from Cointaker not the red tremor. I swapped the motor from my Stern ST and it is good in the LOTR. The CT motor was put in the ST and it is too violent in that one! I contacted CT and was told I can send it back and get a Stern motor to replace it at additional cost. I cannot find this motor on their website or I would have gotten it in the first place. Anyone else have this happen? Thanks.

#1607 2 years ago

I try to buy from PBL unless they don't have the parts. I knew CT had shakers and I wanted to get a back box LED kit. I did finally find the shakers from PBL. The prices at PBL are good also. I did not see that they had the Stern motors. The motor I have in LOTR is so loud it drowns out the Balrog roar. I think the cabinet will not survive. Waiting to hear back for more info from CT.

1 week later
#1623 2 years ago

Got a new shaker from Pinball life. Took out the CT motor that was destroying the cabinet! The PF one is perfect. It works like the one in my Stern Star Trek. Wish I would have gotten that one first.

#1629 2 years ago

Pinball Life has the Super-Band clear mini post rubbers. 23-6535-SB for 7/16, 23-6626-SB for 3/8. I have all clear or translucent in all my pins.

1 week later
#1649 2 years ago

The ST switch in the Gimli hole may not have to be modified. I did not cut mine. I only bent it slightly to clear the VUK plunger. The curved end must stay on the contact the ball. This new switch has been working flawlessly and I play LOTR a lot. I posted a picture before showing the new switch install. The "Y" causes too much side movement in the switch.

#1650 2 years ago

I posted the picture under LOTR Gimli vuk. Check it out.

#1657 2 years ago

All I did was bend the tip so it does not go over the vuk.

Gimli Switch (resized).jpg

#1658 2 years ago

I would put the new switch in and see if it clears before bending. It may clear the vuk.

1 month later
#1744 2 years ago

Can anyone explain how the ball sometimes gets up on the wire form when it is shot in the Gimli VUK? It happens too fast for me to see what is happening. This happens quite a lot. Thanks.

#1761 2 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

The ball will sometimes bounce off of the metal edging behind the VUK/saucer and jump upwards into the wireform without the activating the VUK/awarding the shot.

Thanks. That solves one puzzle.

#1764 2 years ago

I used clear or translucent rings and bumpers. But I did use various colored post rubbers to set off the playfield.

3 weeks later
#1847 2 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

what's the deal with shakers?
is LOTR prewired?

Check "How to install shaker motor in LOTR standard edition" by markmon. In my standard LOTR I used a shaker from Pinball Life, PAL chip from Pinbits,10.02 ROM and 10.0 display ROM from That Pinball Place. I got the first motor from Cointaker but it was too violent. It was not a Red Tremor! You have to reset the pin to factory reset to get it to recognize the new stuff. It works great!

2 weeks later
#1871 2 years ago
Quoted from Zippof15e:

I'm now an official pinside member, just picked up my first pinball, a nice huo lotr. Shipping terminal said earliest delivery was in 7 days, So I just drove my truck the last 50 miles and picked it up. Put my first mod in it on night one, the excellent habitrail mod to get rid of that ugly plastic from ryan1234, works great. Unfortunately day 3 and my gimli hole has stopped registering. Had to figure out how to open up the machine and then undid the switch and played with it a bit and it seems to work a little better but may have to replace it. Need to get a soldering iron. Other issue is some of the bulbs will work one day but not the next. Right now the Fotr is out, but yesterday it was the Merry red arrow and war of the ents. Bought some bulbs for those but today they are working. Anyone else have this issue where lights will work one time and not the next? I'm guessing some faulty wires...looks like it may be out of my league to shoot those.

Replace the Gimli switch with one as in Stern Star Trek. The "Y" switches are hard to find and expensive. I went through 3 in a short amount of time and now have a flawless switch like that in ST. Part is 180-5209-00 from Pinball Life. LOTR is still my favorite!

#1885 2 years ago

This switch replacement works 100% of the time in your VUKs? That's huge -- the Y switches are way outta stock or in the $10 region where remaining. You can move a Y metal actuator to a new switch base if you need. Anyway, photos or additional pointers on this replacement are welcome

I bought 4 or 5 of the "Y" Cherry switches and have used a couple that failed quickly. Then I tried the ST switch. It has been months and lots of plays and works 100%. The ST is wider and beefier than the "Y". I think I had to slightly modify the mount to use the ST switch. The VUK comes out making mod easy. You may also have to bend the tip so it does not go past the plunger. The "Y" in my Shire VUK has been in since I got LOTR and is still working though! Must be the way the ball gets on the switch. The Gimli gets a lot more action.

Gimli Switch (resized).jpg

#1887 2 years ago

Thanks. I have a second ST switch ready to go in the Shire VUK when that does fail.

1 week later
#1922 2 years ago

Not sure. I have a color changing LED in mine.

2 months later
#2123 1 year ago

Do it!

2 weeks later
#2251 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I used to think Lotr was to easy, but something about my game or the way I have it set up is kicking my butt. I think I'm going to check the angle. Enjoying the butt kicking though and can't wait to put up a big score. I'm waiting on a fork switch right now before I get to try again

Check post 1871 and 1885. The switches from Stern ST are better than the "Y" switch. Mine has been working flawlessly in the Gimli hole for a long time.

1 week later
#2287 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Tried to replace the fork switches with the Star Trek pro switches for durability. It was previously mentioned in this thread. They didn't work for me. The ST switches we're to short. I tried to stretch them out and it worked for a minute, but was inconsistent. I'll need to buy fork switches and abandon the ST.

When I used the ST switches they looked slightly long. Post 1657 has a picture of my switch. I bent it down a little bit to keep it away from the plunger. Has been working for a long time now. Sorry it did not work for you.

#2290 1 year ago

I removed the whole assembly to put in the switch. It lined up perfect without cutting. Your bracket holes may be in different spots putting the switch back away from the vuk.

#2291 1 year ago

I think I have 4 Y switches that I will never use.

#2297 1 year ago

Nice work. My Shire Y has never been an issue but the Gimli was terrible. After replacing with 3 different Ys I finally used the ST. Been working ever since.

#2300 1 year ago

You would regret letting it go. Play the others. I usually play all my B/W pins and not the Stern and DE for a while. LOTR is still my favorite. I have more fun when I do get back to it.

1 week later
#2330 1 year ago
Quoted from pipes:

I have this spotlight (which I assume is from the factory) under the plastic/flasher by the right in-lane/out-lane....what is it meant to be pointed at exactly? I never understood why it's even there to begin with. When I bought the game it was pointed towards the drain so I just left it like that.

I took mine out of LOTR and ST. I did not like the look. Much cleaner now.

1 week later
#2350 1 year ago
Quoted from Budman:

How much does a shaker motor add to the playing experience with this title ? I am contemplating buying a HUO and trying to figure out what I will need to add to the total cost. Is this a “ must mod”?

LOTR is my favorite pin and I love the shaker I added. Some pins do not benefit from it but I think LOTR is one to have it. My Stern ST and LAH have shakers also.

#2354 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

How did you add it? Do you have an LE or was this the special PAL ROM setup? I’ve heard both sides - it’sa must-have, and it’s a dog and barely turns on...

I have the standard version. I got the shaker motor from Pinball Life, PBL-100-0019-00, 10.02 PAL chip from Pinbits, That Pinball Place had the 10.02 ROM and the 10.0 display ROM. After installing you must reset the pin to factory reset to get it to recognize the shaker. Check the post "How to install shaker motor in LOTR standard edition" by Markmon.

#2359 1 year ago

My LOTR shut down today as I was playing and reset to start. Not sure why. It was like a Bally/Williams restart. Any thoughts?

#2360 1 year ago

Just found a previous post on this matter. May have been due to a long ball search. Ball was trapped and had to take off glass to get.

#2367 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Is it normal for the ring to make a loud buzzing noise when it grabs the ball and holds it? Mine does it and it's quite loud and distracting

Mine does not make any loud noises. The ring has worked great after I put in a new fuse after I got it home.

3 weeks later
#2468 1 year ago
Quoted from Gunnder:

Is there a way to repair the VUK switches by any chance? The new one I put in (right Gimli VUK) just went again after only about 50 games or so. The one before that lasted over 500 games probably, but this new one what the hell!?!?! I put it in 2 months ago. Has anyone tried prying those suckers open to see what is going on? Seems like a simple regular switch either open or closed.

Use a Stern ST vuk switch. The "Y" switches seem to have too much side play. Look at my posts number 1871 and 1885. I sent 1 picture of my LOTR with the ST switch. Has worked flawlessly for a long time.

#2471 1 year ago
Quoted from Gunnder:

Excellent! I will try this.
But this afternoon I got so fed up with the Y switch. I tore it out, used a hammer and thin screw driver to take out that centre peg that keeps the plastic shell together. Got out the ole multimeter and played around with the switch, spring and connector. Used a bit of hot glue and she's back to working perfectly. Seems like the alignment had some play and gets a bit off after a while. I readjusted the spring and the open/close mech inside and hot glued it all back together. Doesn't look pretty but can't tell from the top and working 100% for now.

You must have real good eyesight!

1 week later
#2483 1 year ago
Quoted from OU182:

Bought mine new.

Great choice!

1 month later
#2664 1 year ago

I never had any luck trying to fix the Y switch. My installed ST switch is still working flawlessly. Simple swap. My shire Y switch is still working OK. The Gimli must take more of a beating.

#2665 1 year ago

I have a few new Y switches to sell at Pinfest if anyone wants them.

#2670 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Just got the game over the weekend. Pretty awesome so far!
I think my game has the higher powered flipper coils, and just wanted to ask what you all think about this. I like to play my games the way they were intended/designed, but if the stock coils were problematic, then maybe I'm better off with the ones in the game now.

If they work I would keep them in.

2 months later
#3109 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I got lucky yesterday and found a, supposed, HUO Lord of the Rings. It is in just about perfect shape and unmodded, except for a color DMD and some cliffy's. I don't want to use the term "minty," but it looks just about brand new. Supper pumped!

Like the red Super Bands on the flippers!

2 weeks later
#3147 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Has anyone installed Flipper Fidelity or Pinball Pro speakers in their game? Just wondering if the upgrade is worthwhile.

I put in Flipper Fidelity in my LOTR. It was well worth it. You can hear more things now. Some stuff was hard to hear before.

#3148 1 year ago

I also have the 8" woofer. That is a good choice.

#3151 1 year ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

I have it in my X-Men le and honestly can't tell the difference.

The originals in X-men le were probably better than the older original LOTR speakers.

#3159 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Such as?
I know with MMR, you can hear some of the effects, like the castle gate clanking as it opens.
I had to get the small sub for it since the troll carriage goes down deep into the can, so the bass is limited (which is fine by me).
I'm debating whether to put the new speakers in my LOTR or TWD.

I recall some of the characters speech was hard to hear when music was playing. I can now hear all the talking. Do the LOTR.

1 month later
#3228 1 year ago
Quoted from MrKegFlex:

After many, many years of my LOTR being folded, I set it up this week. I picked up the volcano mod from PinballCharlie, looks really nice installed... thumbs up on that. Installed a LED backboard, they weren't really around when I folded up my LOTR... didn't realize how much detail and 3D effect is in the translite when you have decent lighting.
Prior to me folding it, I bought the 10.0 roms but never installed. Looking through my parts, I have just 2 chips. For some reason, I thought it was more than 2 chips and I'm wondering if I lost some chips. Can anybody confirm if the 10.0 upgrade is just 2 chips?

Check post 1847. 3 chips needed. PAL chip from Pinbits, 10.02 ROM and 10.0 display ROM from That Pinball Place. Three are needed to run the shaker.

2 weeks later
#3253 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Pippin seems to be missing his head in my game... I found a cheap-ish replacement on eBay, so I should be good to go with figures.
Did Stern ditch the removable weapons for these figures on the slings or were those perhaps lost along the way?

Most of my weapons were missing. I took off the others knowing they would come off during play.

1 month later
#3399 11 months ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Advice on removing a sticker - I don't want to risk scratching the back or leaving residue that would look worse. Leave it or try to remove.
Happy I am part of the LOTR club, fantastic game.
[quoted image]

Razor blade and WD-40.

#3405 11 months ago

Windex after razor and WD-40.

1 week later
#3419 11 months ago
Quoted from Damien:

Quick question... Does it become more difficult to hit the ring during DTR?
I feel like I can hit it pretty consistently in normal play, but in DTR, it seems like the ball is hitting that ramp with less power.
Anyone else experience this?

Mine does not change.

4 weeks later
#3469 10 months ago

I put these posts in to stop the plastic from moving.

20181216_113517_resized (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#3552 9 months ago

The $99 one is the shaker I put in my regular LOTR.

1 week later
#3602 9 months ago

Replace the switch with a Stern Star Trek vuk switch.

#3603 9 months ago

See post 1871 for part number.

3 weeks later
#3764 8 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Still can’t decide between brass and black.
Now with matching feet..?[quoted image][quoted image]


1 week later
#3805 8 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

[quoted image]

My post is on the threaded rod behind the Palatir. You can see the threads on the post in the picture.

#3850 7 months ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Ok, installed the shaker in my non LE LOTR following the directions here:
Fairly straight forward, new PAL, new 10.02 rom, piggy back the red/white wire, and hook up #5 on the J9. All that but no shaking still. what solenoid is the shaker? #24 "optional"?

I also put a shaker in a non LE LOTR. Mine would not work until I reset pin to factory settings. After it is working you can change the settings.

#3861 7 months ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

True story, it was working the entire time. It's just so weak, I couldn't feel it. My sub shakes the game more than the shaker does. Once Lamprey posted the solenoid, I could finally test it.
I used the PBL shaker as I do in all my games. This might be one case where the red tremor might have paid off assuming it's stronger like it is in all the other pins.

I am using the regular Stern shaker from PBL. It is working great. I had a motor from CT that was too violent. It was not the Red Tremor though. I think the RT will destroy your cabinet! Must be something else going on.

#3868 7 months ago
Quoted from red-line:

Anybody tried any different colored flipper buttons? stock buttons don't have springs, right?
I'm still struggling with my clear LED flipper buttons - they feel stiff and sticky. They make post transfers way harder than they should be. I'm switching them out for some regular buttons, deciding between red, black, white, or green.

I used orange buttons

#3873 7 months ago
Quoted from red-line:

Any pics of the gold/orange buttons?
And are you sure about the spring? The lotr manual calls for part# 500-5026-32. When I Google that, it comes up with a no-spring version

Orange buttons, orange Super Bands and red Perfect Play for the kickers. The colors are better than the pictures show. May be due to the Invisiglass.

20190225_201526 (resized).jpg20190225_201542 (resized).jpg

#3874 7 months ago

All my pins have buttons with springs. I do not notice any issues in the pins that did not have them originally.

#3890 7 months ago

No gizmo in my LED'd LOTR. I color matched.

1 week later
#3994 7 months ago

My ST switch is still working after hundreds of plays.

#3997 7 months ago
Quoted from jsm172:

Can someone tell me what size spacers go on the spotlight plastics?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The one by sword tip is one inch and 1/8. The left side is 1 inch.

3 weeks later
#4114 6 months ago
Quoted from Jgel:

The switch on the left VUK - shire is not registering 50% of the time all of a sudden. Tried to bend arm a bit but no luck. Any way I can clean this or should I just replace the switch and move on?
I see people using...
the first is what is on now. Any preference?

The ST switch is more durable. I have mine in for a long time. Works great.

#4116 6 months ago
Quoted from TRC73:

In recent times, I went from loving The Hobbit and thinking LotR was "meh", to loving LotR and thinking The Hobbit is "meh".
It probably has to do with the fact that my local area seems to have gotten rid of the few ones available in public, and the last one I did have the "pleasure" of playing was lumped up so bad it was unplayable.
But, anyways. Not that anyone cares, but I've come around on LotR.
edit: the whole souls of the dead upper playfield thing, can you actually influence anything that goes on up there or is it just a completely random, hope for the best bingo type of situation?

You can nudge to get more souls.

1 month later
#4242 5 months ago
Quoted from Yodamingus:

Hi There LOTR Club
Second post here on Pinside !!
Picked up a undocumented HUO LOTR maybe a year ago but finally got around to shopping it out adding ..
EBay Vender ..updated code
New Rubbers with the exception of bolrog ( Got to look into how to dismantle him ) Help?
PinBits Plastic protectors
LerMods Gandalf staff
and a Coin Taker etched acrylic over the left out lane ( Very Classy)
Wiped everything down with Novis 1 and or 2
Replaced a few bulbs and Replaced the fuse (3A To 4A) associated to the Ring Magnet ( Stopped Working )
What and improvement !!
I do have a full set of Cliffy Protectors Yet to install ... ( Not sure if i will Install all or any ) Opinions?
A few additional Pinbits plastics ( Not sure if ill install ) Opinions?
Additional decals on the way for the stand up targets and shire (again unsure what i will install ) Opinions ?
Was thinking of a Path of the dead Mod and how to go about assembling
I see parts here and there including this post here above mine (Interested..)Options? Opinions?
? Flipperv Fidelity Or PinballPro ? Or Sub On The Floor...?
And I am on the list for the Palantir Mod (Woo Hoo!)
Anything I'm Missing ?
Any must haves ?
Finally a straight up question ..
Now that my Ring Magnet is working again it grabs the ball ..
But then it wavers a bit and sometimes falls out the front of the ring rather then getting pulled back
Any thoughts on this ?
I figure that it should always pull it back and through to the rail ?
The game is level .. ?
Thanks so much to Pinside
and all its members for all the info and help

I put in Flipper Fidelity speakers. I can now clearly hear all the dialog. Great improvement.

3 weeks later
#4346 4 months ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Show caseing some mods a colleague and I have been working on. The path of the dead comes with holes to mount the figures or in a cheaper alternative without has multiple etching options. Sword will be available soon, one pictured is a prototype finish will be a smoother crisper paint
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great. You may want to add the sword tip decal.

2 weeks later
#4420 3 months ago
Quoted from red-line:

So I just realized that my sword blade is gold-colored and stock is silver. Not sure why the previous owner did that. Attached a pic to see what it looks like - kinda hard to get a pic that captures the color.
My question is for anyone with the sword tip decal. Is the decal colored silver to match the sword, or is it clear with shading on it? Obviously a silver decal wouldn't work on this gold sword, but if it's clear it should be fine. Can anyone answer that?[quoted image]

My tip decal is clear. You can see the striations in the metal sword through the decal.

#4428 3 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I'm picking up a LOTR that has a broken vertical shire VUK plastic (the riveted piece), and from what I understand to replace it you have to buy an entire plastics set. All other plastics are fine though and already have plastic protectors so I'm wondering if I can just fix this using the lexan piece as others have done with the velcro. No better solutions have come along for this plastic piece yet hey?

Check the picture in my post 3469. I put in 2 posts with the larger rings to keep the plastic in place. Stops the crack from getting bigger. Not sure if this will fix your issue.

1 week later
#4477 3 months ago
Quoted from Filmstudy:

I notice you do not have the Stern Y actuator on the Gimli VUK, so I'm sure you are familiar with all of the reported VUK issues on this game.
I have had those VUK switches replaced perhaps 6 times, but finally decided to have a mechanical engineer put in a tungsten switch which points down into the VUK opening. That was about a month ago.
Since then I've been playing the game perhaps 1-3 hours per day and the switch appeared to work perfectly for the longest it ever has, but several times, the machine has done 2 things during an extended game (each time 40 minutes plus):
1. Hiccup the VUK 2-5 times with no ball present or after the ball has been kicked. This can happen several times.
2. Reports "Operator Alert! #5 Right VUK Coil Malfunction" (Incredibly, this occurred just as I reached Valinor the last time and I was trying to record the error on video and got Valinor scoring info I'll post)
There does not appear to be anything wrong with the switch itself, which is not misshapen, clicks normally when pushed manually, and passes in switch test mode. The engineer suggests the problem is not likely to be the coil, but is probably a problem with the data bus which is sending incorrect information to the VUK.
Has anyone been through this secondary issue with the Gimli VUK? Anyone have advice on how to proceed to diagnose and correct this problem? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I put in a switch like the one in Stern ST pro vuk. It has worked flawlessly for years. I bent the tip down slightly to miss the plunger.

#4484 3 months ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Your switch is having intermittent issues and showing pressed when it is not. That makes the VUK coil fire, but the switch does not change, so the software thinks the VUK coil has failed and turns it off, but it still works in ball search, so you know the VUK is OK.
Open the switch test in the diagnostics and test it out a bunch and you will see. Maybe it is failing, or partially pressed and needs adjustment.

Maybe get a ST switch and put that in. Works 100%.

2 weeks later
#4547 87 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Thanks for the suggestions everyone!
Got the color dmd and palantir ordered!
is it worth it to upgrade speakers? Speaker recommendations? Loving this game

I put in Flipper Fidelity speakers. Now I can understand every word said clearly. Massive improvement.

#4584 80 days ago

I have had my LOTR for about 3 years now. Today I got to TABA for the first time. All I knew was the music was something I never heard before. I had just used my new digital level to set the pitch and tried a quick game. I hope to get to TABA again! And beyond.

#4587 79 days ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

We've had our LOTR for 8 months. My stepson and I have high scores (180-210 million), but my wife is the only one to start TABA (twice). She loves that music.
Full disclosure - we have our game set to 5 balls, with Special and Replay set to award extra balls. We do have the outlanes wide open (difficult).

Nice. Mine is also on 5 ball and set to medium. Outlanes small.

2 weeks later
#4688 59 days ago


2 weeks later
#4751 46 days ago

I would say you got the right kit with the Stern version. It does not matter which way the board sits.

#4764 45 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

Does this game benefit from upgrading speakers and/or adding a sub?
So many people talk about the audio quality lacking for LOTR I wasn’t sure if it would make a difference.

I put in Flipper Fidelity system. Huge difference. I can now hear everything that is said. No more muddy speech.

1 month later
#4963 11 days ago

Welcome. Your trim used to be black. You can add the shaker as I did after changing the ROMs in my LOTR. Gold is the LE finish. Your POTD figures are a mod. Pictures are not clear to see any other mods.

1 week later
#5019 4 days ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Just picked up a very clean LOTR last week, really enjoying it so far. Couple questions for you guys:
1. LED OCD, any reason to get a GI board? I haven't noticed any GI dimming effects but want to confirm I can skip it.
2. Playfield figures, I'd really like to remove these if possible... My machine has a couple additions (Boromir + Gimli glued on top of the pop flashers) which will require some new plastics I'm thinking. Any documentation on the best way to remove all figures from the game, is ordering LE-style plastics necessary or anything? I'll obviously be holding onto them for any future owner but I'm just not a fan, after seeing how clean the LE playfields look I'd rather go that direction.
3. Audio quality, any way to clean it up short of a Pinsound?
Thanks for any help!

I put in Flipper Fidelity speakers. I can now hear all the dialog clearly. Greatly improved sounds.

I have all LED lighting with no control boards. I think it is fine this way. To each their own.

#5024 4 days ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Which Flipper Fidelity kit did you do, just the backbox speakers or a sub too (8" or 10")? And was it fairly straight forward to install?
And the LED's aren't horrible by any means, just some noticeable ghosting and the flickering during dimming bugs me, more during attract mode than anything else. Just something I'd like to do down the line.

I used the kit with back box speakers and the 8" sub. The install is easy.

You can turn off the dimming feature. I used green wide angle LED in the POTD sockets. The light is diffused and not blinding like regular domed bulbs.

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