(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

9 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (6 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (4 years ago)

Post #5383 LOTR documentation for silicone rings and LEDs Posted by Daditude (4 years ago)

Post #9244 TECH:PLAYFIELD Opto Driver replacement board warning Posted by PinMonk (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2669 6 years ago

Just got the game over the weekend. Pretty awesome so far!

I think my game has the higher powered flipper coils, and just wanted to ask what you all think about this. I like to play my games the way they were intended/designed, but if the stock coils were problematic, then maybe I'm better off with the ones in the game now.

Cheers.

#2671 6 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

If they work I would keep them in.

I'm just curious to know the difference. Can anyone explain.

Thanks.

#2675 6 years ago
Quoted from raz0red:

I have tried both the high and medium powered coils. Since I had been playing forever with the standard coils, the new coils changed the game too much from what I was used to. Thus, I ultimately decided to go back to the standard coils. When I play it now, if I am in the middle of a long game, I take a break between balls to let the coils cool down.

What would you say the main difference is? The game plays faster and thus harder?

Although it may be unreasonable, I do want to get to Vallinor one day, so making it harder isn't really what I'm going for haha!

I also like my games to play as close to factory as possible, unless something was really defective and needed changes.

#2678 6 years ago
Quoted from raz0red:

The game is definitely easier with the medium or high powered coils. You don't have to be as precise to make the ring shot over long play sessions. The main reason I removed them was that when I would first turn on the game, it seemed way too powerful. The ball would slam into the ring, the left ramp shot would come screaming back at a very high velocity, and the targets would get slammed pretty hard. In addition to feeling I might break something, the shots just felt off from what I was used to. Over a longer play session the medium and high power coils heat up causing them to be less powerful (like the standard ones), but the initial play was too powerful for my liking.
It really all comes down to personal preference. I know people who have upgraded and swear by it. I also haven't heard of anyone breaking anything due to the upgraded coils, so it is probably just me.

Appreciate you taking the time to explain that. I think I will play it as is for now, but eventually, when I want to clean the game up a bit, I might also rebuild flippers with the stock one.

Can anyone confirm the coil that I would select from PBL: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3748

Thanks!

#2685 6 years ago
Quoted from raz0red:

The manual lists the following part number: 090-5020-20T. Note that Pinball Life has two different coils listed with this part number. The normal coil and the LOTR-specific one which is more powerful.
Also, I assume you have the original LOTR and not the limited edition (gold). The limited edition uses a different coil.

Yes, I have a standard. I'm going to order the stock coils. No rush to change them, but eventually I'd like to.

Also, what slant do you guys have this game at? I put my digital torpedo level in the drain, so the center of it lands sort of where the slings start, and I get 6.5 degrees.

But the game plays fast! Wondering how you guys have your games playing.

#2692 6 years ago
Quoted from C_S_S:

Stuck behind balrog is good fortune...do you mean when he catches a fly ball?

How many hits does it take to beat Balrog in the multiball?

And how many shots are required in the two other multiball modes? Doesn't seem to show anywhere.

#2695 6 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

You have to hit balrog then ramp 7(?)x

Man, this game is no joke! Makes you work for it!

How many shots are needed to beat each multiball?

Loving the game, but damn is it deep! Feel like I need to take a vacation just to learn the rules haha!

#2705 6 years ago

My balrog doesn't register all hits. Any thoughts?

#2708 6 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Most of the time it's the cable assembly, then the next likely culprit is the switch......

Yup, searched this thread and seem the switch is often the issue. How do I access the switch? From the top or bottom of pf? Does Balrog need to be removed?

#2717 6 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

One....shot....from....VALINOR. I had it all, I had probably 11 gifts, my mutliballs completed, TABA, DTR shots made, ball hanging, smacked it! It shook and rattled around but not enough to free it. I drained trying about 4-5 more shots at it. All before 7am.
Sickening.

You should be pretty happy with yourself even if you didn't make it. It's quite the feat. I'm still trying to understand the rules to one day hopefully get somewhere closer to it. I think I've only beat the multiball once, and I've only had 3 or 4 gifts in a game. I have done DTR twice in a game, but everything else was incomplete.

I'm wondering if my high powered coils are making it harder to get things done. The ball blasts around pretty fast.

#2720 6 years ago

Quick question, when trying to complete a multiball mode, if you do not finish it the first time around, are the shots still in memory the next time you attempt it? For example, if you were 5 shots away the first time in ROTK, and the second time you start it you make 5 shots, will it complete it? Was just watching Keith Elwin doing Valinor, and seems one of the multiballs he completed pretty quickly.

And one last thing... On default settings, does it take 2 shots to the ring to complete DTR? I swear the first time I did it, it was only one shot, but when I played today, the first shot went in, and the mode was still going.

#2723 6 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

The MBs have memory, so the next time you pick up where you left off.
DTR takes two shots. First shot is held by the magnet and the second shot knocks the ball through and completes the mode. You can also change it in the settings to just have to shoot through the ring twice.

Interesting!!! Not that I'm anywhere close, but the mountain just got a little shorter to climb!

#2724 6 years ago

Can anyone confirm if these are the same as the stock coils?

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3747

And, like the factory coils, will these overheat/lose power during a long game?

#2727 6 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

I have the Pinball Life coils...
After an hour of play they get hot and slow down. I now use a small fan to cool the coils. The fan works great. If I were to do It again, I would have started with the fan.
I just use a simple, small 110v desk fan. It sits were the coin box goes and points up to the coils.
I have it pluged into the service outlet. If I ever get motivated I will tie it into the power switch.

These?

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3747

#2735 5 years ago

Dammit!!!!!!!!

I had 5 gifts, 2 MBs completed, TABA started and failed, and I had a mode started with just fellowship mb to start. The inserts showed Frodo was the only one flashing, but I kept hitting it and nothing!

Does it need to pass through the ring to light Frodo?

Also, after completing fellowship, the inserts go blank (unlike flashing when game starts). Do I have to hit the shots more than once the second time around?

And is it fair to think that if I had started the fellowship MB, completed it, got the 6th gifts, and then started DTR, I would have been at Valinor?

#2736 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Dammit!!!!!!!!
I had 5 gifts, 2 MBs completed, TABA started and failed, and I had a mode started with just fellowship mb to start. The inserts showed Frodo was the only one flashing, but I kept hitting it and nothing!
Does it need to pass through the ring to light Frodo?
Also, after completing fellowship, the inserts go blank (unlike flashing when game starts). Do I have to hit the shots more than once the second time around?
And is it fair to think that if I had started the fellowship MB, completed it, got the 6th gifts, and then started DTR, I would have been at Valinor?

Anyone?

#2742 5 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

Did you actually get a super jackpot during ROTK multiball? Impressive if you did, you need to make almost 30 shots during that MB.

Yup

#2743 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

From Keefer himself here on Pinside:
1. Win FOTR (9 Balrog bashes + 8 ramp shots - the 9th bash is the super jackpot/win).
2. Win TTT (survive 4 stages of assault, shoot 1 single super jackpot to qualify as won - yes it is possible to have super lit and drain out and not win it (yet))
3. Win ROTK (I'm pretty sure this is ("only") finish 6 sets of 4 jackpots, then level 7 should be supers - any one super counts as a win)
4. Play TABA (don't have to win it)
5. Collect the "secret" 7th Elf Gift (3 gifts will come from the multiballs, so you need to scrape up 4 more from DTR wins, mode wins, or 2+ multiball wins)
6. After 1-5 are complete, then your NEXT *SUCCESSFUL* DTR will start Valinor. Prior DTR wins/losses have no effect (other than the point bonus at the end)

Hmmm... So back to my question, would me completing Fellowship MB not have earned me my 6th gift, and the 7th could have come from the DTR that followed (which at the same time would have started Valinor)?

Thanks

#2746 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

you have to have the 7th gift and THEN start DTR
Getting DTR timing right and finishing it is the portion that really holds people back.

So 7th gift is just another gift? Essentially I could get all 7 by finishing 3 MBs, and 4 modes?

And someone mentioned something about a gift from 2+ MBs. What's that?

#2748 5 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

Each Multiball complete is a gift (potentially 3, and 3 anyways, if you plan on going to Valinor) There are 6 modes, any complete is a gift. DTR is a gift if completed, TABA is a gift if completed. Getting the gifts from the elves hasn't been my downfall, it's been getting to DTR with Valinor on the other side of it and blowing it. I've had as many as 11 damn gifts from the Elves

I have high powered could right now, and the balls flies like a bullet around the pf. Just ordered the medium powered ones, so I'm hoping it improves the overall flow. Might even make achieving the goals a bit more doable.

Do most of you guys run stock coils, or have you changed to medium or high?

#2752 5 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

I prefer the high powered, even though they're pretty beefy and send moon shots, but I prefer these over coils getting weak with long play. I can't deal with weak coils on a potential trip to Valinor where you need to smack the ball out of there.
With that said, I think one of my coils is a pinballlife and the other is something else not original, but they've stayed strong and don't feel too overpowering.

I bought a set of the medium strength ones sold here on Pinside, and hopefully they won't be as powerful but also won't lose power over lengthy games.

#2759 5 years ago

Quick question, when the ball come out of the pops and travels down the right orbit lane, should it hot the right slings, or go to the flipper?

If anyone can snap a quick photo of their ball guide on the right (mainly to see where it is in respect to the rubber post at the end).

Thanks

#2761 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Quick question, when the ball come out of the pops and travels down the right orbit lane, should it hot the right slings, or go to the flipper?
If anyone can snap a quick photo of their ball guide on the right (mainly to see where it is in respect to the rubber post at the end).
Thanks

Can I bug someone to take a photo of where there right orbit ball guide ends, so I can see how close it is to the rubber post.

Thanks!

#2763 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

From my shop job pics:

Thank you so much!

And do you recall if the ball hits the slings anytime it comes down from that right orbit lane?

#2785 5 years ago
Quoted from Spraynard:

Woohoo! Got to Valinor for the first time! Caught it on video too. » YouTube video
Funny enough, I got to valinor on the third game after upgrading my coils to the medium strength ones recommended in this thread. On Ball 1! Amazing what a difference it makes. All my previous attempts would stall out because my coils would get weak during a long game.
Of course, tried to do it again the next day with no luck. The stars have to align just perfectly.

You're a f'ing machine!

Did you seriously do that on ball 1?

Man, I have a LOOOOOOONG way to go... But I'm determined as hell to get there!

#2789 5 years ago

Balls are getting stuck in the Shire (I think usually in MB modes).

It doesn't eject until the ball search goes off, and if there are multiple balls stuck, it seems to only eject one.

Does it sound like it's that little fork switch thingy that might need replacing or something else?

#2806 5 years ago
Quoted from WildRover:

I appreciate the feedback! I own a great condition Star Trek Pro but want to add a deep game to compliment, either LOTR or TSPP...but as you said, the prices keep going up on these.
I haven't played enough LOTR to 100% pick it over TSPP yet, but I am a die hard Tolkein fan that makes custom Middle Earth wooden maps on the side...feels like I have to

Go LOTR... I just got one, and it's a blast to play. Longer than average ball times, and always a sense of completion which i find you don't get in most games. Going for Valinor feels like an adventure, and doing DTR and TABA along the way are super fun. Probably the best call outs in any game ever.

TSPP is fun, but to me just feels way to crowded, and having a wizard mode that literally no one can complete sort of turns me off.

#2810 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

It's a mix. While the Legolas & Sword ramps and outer loop can be fast, it has so 3 VUKs, a bash target, a slow ramp, the path of the dead, and a top kickout hole that really gives a good mix. The LOTR rules for it are superb, and I like that it's not an unfair layout, i.e. no cheap drains.

Speaking of drains, when you don't quite make the sword ramp, and it rolls back down, should it be heading between the flippers for a drain? Mine very often does.

#2813 5 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

It’s not a bug. It’s a feature!

I'm guessing this raised screw is not a feature

IMG_20180509_212538 (resized).jpgIMG_20180509_212538 (resized).jpg

#2819 5 years ago

Just shit the bed big time on my Valinor run... Had 5 gifts, 2 MBs completed (FoTR & TTT) and was just a few shots away from ROTK (would have got it next time I lit it up). And did all this on one ball. Next two balls basically went down the drain, and then ball 2 and 3 were me struggling to load up modes and then Gollim. I should have walked away, calmed my nerves, and then returns to try to load up ROTK and another mode for gift 6 and 7.

Obviously, I still had DTR to get to Valinor, and my success rate at DTR is probably 20%!

Great game regardless! Loving it!

#2850 5 years ago

Curious to know what slope you guys have your game at? With my 9" digital level at starting just above the flippers, and going to the top of the slings, it's at 6.5 degrees. Moving the level up so it's close to Balrog, it's 6.7.

However, the bubble level on the shooter Lane has the bubble slightly going over the top line.

It plays alright, but definitely tough to live catch balls.

Curious to know what you guys are set at.

#2864 5 years ago

Does this look normal? The sling rubber on my LOTR sticks out much more than my other games as shown here with AFM where the rubber is recessed.

MVIMG_20180515_130113 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180515_130113 (resized).jpg
IMG_20180515_130129 (resized).jpgIMG_20180515_130129 (resized).jpg

#2865 5 years ago

One more...

MVIMG_20180515_130054 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180515_130054 (resized).jpg

#2869 5 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I believe the posts are supposed to be 550-5059-01 clear posts
Make sure the posts are reasonably tight at the underside of the playfield.

I think the ones I have are the right ones?

IMG_20180515_205717 (resized).jpgIMG_20180515_205717 (resized).jpg

#2876 5 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Maybe wrong size rubber?

Could be. I'm going to replace all rubbers, change all bulbs to LED, and a few other things once I get some time.

Another question... Seems the audio levels are all messed up in this game. The soundtrack is much lower than the call outs. I think the MB modes also increase in volume too.

Is this a known issue with this game, or something specific to my machine?

#2878 5 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

there is a setting to stop the audio from changing levels.

Oh. Where would I find that? And does it sound good using this option?

#2891 5 years ago

Getting quicker... Now if I could only get better at finishing FOTR and ROTK MBs!

IMG_20180517_010030 (resized).jpgIMG_20180517_010030 (resized).jpg

#2894 5 years ago
Quoted from FlipsMcgee:

Played a 70 minute game last night, and completed everything but Two Towers and RoTK multiball. Had 6 gifts, but obviously that jumps to 7 with the multiball completions. I need to figure out better methods for the two latter multiball.

TTT is probably the easiest to beat of the three. I find FOTR hard because you're required to hit those two shots constantly.

I played one game today, had everything completed except FOTR and ROTK. I had a good run at them, and was a few shots away from finishing them. But after TABA, I messaged up by starting a mode at random. I should have started WOTE and loaded up ROTK.

Valinor is definitely an adventure to get to!

#2901 5 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

Lighting the Palantir and then collecting it via the Mystery award will usually (but not always) add-a-ball in the three movie multiballs. (To light Palantir, shoot the left orbit to reach the Barad-dur tower on the upper right corner of the playfield, and to collect Palantir, simply hit the white target below the globe next to the right VUK, a/k/a Gollum's Cave.)

Anyone know how many shots roughly need to be made in TTT and ROTK?

#2909 5 years ago
Quoted from FlipsMcgee:

Hey guys, I think my opto boards are busted lol:

How the hell did you put that score up???

I played almost an hour the other day and ended up with 305M!

#2913 5 years ago
Quoted from FlipsMcgee:

I got to Valinor and the balls kept popping back up so I played Valinor for 15 minutes lol.
Then I played again right after and everything functioned normally. I dunno...

Weird. Regardless, congrats on getting to Valinor!

Wondering if anyone can help... My right flipper keeps getting stuck in the up position.

With most games, I'd normally just go in and check the coil sleeve or flipper for binding. But I know LOTR has issues with overheating.

Does this sound like it's the coil? Seems to only happen on the right.

#2915 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Check the return spring? Maybe it’s broken. Does it get stuck up there with the machine off and you move it manually?
Maybe a transistor blown? I can’t remeber my exact symptoms, but seems like it was something similar. Maybe a transistor being blown would be the effect rather than the cause.

Will check it out over the weekend.

Was looking to replace the flippers switches and sling switches. Manual shows that there are two switches:

180-5164-00
180-5160-00

Anyone know why there are two different? Can't seem to find 180-5160-00 on Pinball Life.

Also, for the slings, do I just need 4 of these:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1033

I thought I saw a diode connected to one on each side.

Anyone?

#2916 5 years ago

Did a little more digging.. Is this the switch I need for both flippers?

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=153

#2919 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is likely mechanical, when its stuck up, remove the glass and push it down, if it falls its mechanical, if it stays up, or if you can feel it pushing back its electrical.

I'm thinking first it could be a broken flipper button. I sometimes hit my buttons very spiritedly, and I'm starting to remember this might have also happened to my MMR.

I just looked now, and the right button looks a little more resessed than the left.

#2921 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

If that's the case, and the switch is sticking closed, you should be able to just bend it so that it works properly. This is really no different than adjusting the leaf switches for your slingshots.

Thinking the button might be the issue. If it's locking up and not coming back out fully, it could be closing the switch and thus having the flipper stick in the up position.

I should have an extra button around, and will try swapping them out when I get some time this evening.

#2922 5 years ago

Can anyone tell me if these are stock coils?

IMG_20180520_225604 (resized).jpgIMG_20180520_225604 (resized).jpg

#2926 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Have you checked it in the switch test mode? See if it ever stays 'on' there.

Switched out the flipper button last night, and it works perfectly. Looks like the spring might have popped inside. Switch looks perfectly fine, and played my best game after installing it!

Got all gifts, all MBs completed, and TABA. Just had to start up Two Tower again, and it would have been only DTR left to do! Soooooo close!

#2927 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Agreed, those are the upgraded ones from PinballLife. Had them in my machine for a day before I ordered the ones sold here on Pinside by APB. The PBL coils are way to powerful, the APB are pin the just right category: more power without being too powerful and they don't overheat under heavy use.
Here is the link: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1065-apb-enterprises/01414-new-stern-pinball-medium-power-coil-lord-of-the-rings-gnr

You guys sure? The ones on PBL have "LOTR" labelled on them, unless these are older ones.

Either way, I bought a set from APB, so I'll see how those work out.

#2935 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

I’m doing the tests before mounting it.

I grabbed 3 of them at Pinfest. My LOTR hadn’t been setup in a while, so now it’s time! The one I stuck in BSD is amazing, so LOTR was next. This install is a tiny bit more involved than WPC, plus I still need to move other mods to fit it in the backbox. But I’m very excited to see how this sounds.

Please post a video when you get it set up. Curious to see how it sounds.

#2941 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is an original NOS coil purchased by me, from my distributor, back in 2003 ...

Ahhhhhhh, there we go! So then I have the stock coils?

The PBL ones looks the same right, except the label says LOTR?

I ordered the medium strength ones, so interested to see how that will improve gameplay.

I haven't noticed the coils dropping a lot of power. Maybe it's a little tough to make it into the ring at times, but never to the point that I can't make it after a couple of attempts.

#2952 5 years ago

I'm going to be doing a full LED treatment on my game. Do you suggest going warm or natural/cool white?

#2976 5 years ago

My Balrog does not seem to be registering hits unless you really smack it hard with a straight on shot.

What's the best/easiest way to get access to the switch in Balrog so I can adjust it?

Also, when does the diverter at the top of the pf get activated? Should it be up during War of the Ents. I make the right orbit shot during this mode, and it just sent the ball around the full orbit exiting out of the left side. Should it be stopped by the diverter to be sent into the Path of the Dead?

Cheers

#2979 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

The switch or the wires running to it are probably failing. I have not opened it in a while. Start with it in the open position away from the ramp. Take of the 2 screws that hold on the small back cover. The manual has a good exploded view at the bottom of page 87.

Yes, that diverter post is up during War of the Ents, but the ball may be going past it because the shot is not strong enough to roll along the top of the orbit or maybe ball guide on the right is aimed under the post. Do left orbit shots hit the diverter and roll in to the tower? You can stand on the right of the pin and see when the diverter post is up. It is normal that a few balls get past it.

Took the back plate off Balrog, pulled the switch out and bent it a bit so that it requires less of a gap to activate. It's not perfect, but definitely improved.

I'll play around with it more when I have some time.

I'll also have a look at that diverter. I guess it's not uncommon for the ball to whip around the right orbit and pass through the post.

One last thing... I have stock coils and I swear in the last few games I've played, it feels much harder to hit the ring. I understand that the coils heat up and lose power during gameplay but could they lose power in a way that the coil itself becomes weakened over time and just doesn't have the juice to make those shots whether you've just started a game or are half hour in?

#2981 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

unlikely, usually the only time you would see this is if the coil got hot enough to melt it's spindle; but it should completely bind if this were to happen. What you are more than likely seeing is a mechanical issue such as ... loose part, cracked/binding sleeve, mushrooming plunger, etc...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SFLKIT
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5070-00

You're probably right. I bought a rebuild kit from PBL and also ordered the medium strength coils sold here on Pinside.

I'll change them out when I have some extra time. I'm pretty sure the game I have is HUO and by the looks of it, not a great deal of mileage. But I guess it is 15 years old, and that's definitely a lot of time for a flipper assembly to get some wear and tear.

#2984 5 years ago

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!

Just had my best game yet. Had 6 gifts, and was about to start Fellowship again that only required one more pass.

Sooooo close, yet so far!

Definitely one of the best pinball wizard mode journeys ever.

#2988 5 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Led OCD in last night. Amazing difference immediately. Does anyone make any changes to the settings or just load lotr in the program and leave it alone?

How can I check if lotr program is loaded in my LED OCD?

#2989 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Warm white all the way!

Frosted or not for the GI? How about the inserts?

#2993 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

My thread and build used a mix of mini and frosted - see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-and-rubber-maps-for-lord-of-the-rings
I like to use frosted anytime there is a larger insert (arrows included) and two flex for even larger inserts.
Since I've largely switched to just using frosted everywhere instead of minis and trying to save a few bucks.

What are minis?

#3009 5 years ago

Can someone who has stock lighting on their game post a photo of the lights on the backboard (modes, POTD, and that strip of lighting that runs across the top).

Thank you so much

#3011 5 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Its all clear imcandescent except potd which are clear green
Everything is clear in stock except potd sign and flasher on right ramp

Hmmmmmm... Trying to figure out what to do with that strip of lights.

I'm doing warm LEDs for all clear insets and GI bulbs (frosted for GI) and then green LED for greeninserts, red for red, etc...

#3015 5 years ago

I'm trying out the two SMD clear warm white bulbs for the inserts. Right now the game has color-matched bulbs but I'm going to see how it looks when everything is warm white.

Above the pf, I went with the same bulbs, but frosted.

These new bulbs are in my TWD, and they look pretty sharp.

For the strip on the backboard, I'm going to experiment with some colour combos.

#3017 5 years ago

Quick question... When you don't fully make a right ramp (sword) shot, and the ball rolls out, does it generally go to the middle of the flippers (often causing a SDTM) or does it go to the left sling?

Watched a couple of gameplay videos, and seems it often goes to the sling which makes is much easier to play.

#3020 5 years ago

I decided to reset my settings to factory just to make sure everything was stock, and one major thing I've noticed is there is no ball save now.

Is that how the game is supposed to play on factory settings?

#3022 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yup. Standard Adjustment 38 if you want to turn it on.
Here are some other I used and wrote down in my notes to find quickly later if needed:
SA 4 replay levels = (tiers of replays or EBs)
SA 6 Sepecial Award =
SA 9 EB Limit =
SA 15 Tilt Warnings = 3
SA 29 High Score = 10 letters
SA 30 Free Play = Yes
SA 42 Coindoor Ball save = Yes
SA 49 Tech Alert = coin door and startup
SA 3 replay award = EB ==> replay
FA 33 Cave Troll = ON
FA 34 = consolation balrog = none
FA 36 = Extend attract = Yes

So "cave troll" is just that sequence before Balrog comes out?

And what is "attract mode"? It's not in the manual.

And last thing, the Palantir target keeps getting bumped to the left. I manually center it, but after a couple of games, it goes back. Any fix for this?

#3027 5 years ago
Quoted from C_S_S:

Check out my post 2698 on p.54 for pics of installed splint

Has it kept it in place?

#3029 5 years ago

Quick question...

In the menu, I have the following set as default:

Flipper Adj 1 - 20
Flipper Adj 2 - 50
Flipper Adj 3 - 3

First, what do these settings control/change, and the manual shows that Flipper Adj 1 should actually be 10, but the factory reset has it at 20.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

#3030 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Quick question...
In the menu, I have the following set as default:
Flipper Adj 1 - 20
Flipper Adj 2 - 50
Flipper Adj 3 - 3
First, what do these settings control/change, and the manual shows that Flipper Adj 1 should actually be 10, but the factory reset has it at 20.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

Anyone?

#3032 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Lucky you, my manual doesn't even have these settings since I was on code version 4.01 and they weren't added until much later.
CPU Release 8.00
Date July 13, 2004
Game ROM 1M U210 $94FF 8.00 lotrcpu.800
Game ROM 1M U210 $AEFF 8.00 lotrcpul.800
- *** THIS CPU RELEASE REQUIRES DISPLAY VERSION 8.xx ***
- Flipper code rewritten. The game now uses the EOS switch where available
to turn off power to the flippers earlier. This should generally result in
the flippers staying MUCH cooler over a longer period of time and reduce
player dissatisfaction on a heavily-played game.
- 3 adjustments were added to control the flippers. YOU SHOULD NOT CHANGE
THESE WITHOUT CONSULTING TECH SUPPORT.
- Standard Adj 53: Specifies the minimum flipper fire time in ms.
- Standard Adj 54: Specifies the maximum flipper fire time in ms.
- Standard Adj 55: Specifies extra fire time after reaching EOS in ms.

So this was added in an update to address the overheating issue with coils?

Just curious, because I know a lot of people have switched over to medium and high (PBL) coils, so wondering if I need to.

I find I often can't make the ring shot, but that could either be power or my shitty aim. Sometimes when I'm on, it feels good, but otherwise, I generally feel like there is a lack of power.

#3044 5 years ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

Finally hit TABA after years of trying...

Congrats! Did you end up finishing it?

I only tried to play it once, and was one ring shot away before it timed out.

Now when I reach it, I'm usually chasing down Valinor, so I trap and hold onto the ball as it's too much risk for drains.

#3047 5 years ago

How often should shots to the ringramps fail to make it into the ring?

Not sure what is going on with my game, but I finished DTR in 35 seconds last week, and now it's taking me over 2 mins.

Feel like at least 60-70% of shots don't have enough juice to hit the ring.

#3052 5 years ago

I've noticed a lot of games have the Galdalf on his horse figure, but mine has this one. Anyone know why?

MVIMG_20180613_214527 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180613_214527 (resized).jpg
#3057 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Stern ran into supply issues with that figurine; my machine (mfg date Dec 10, 2003) also came with Gandolf the Grey so it was not isolated to later runs. In addition to Gandolf the White, you will be missing 1 or 2 of the clear plastics that are needed to properly mount Gandolf on Shadowfax; fortunately, when I purchased this machine, I had also purchased the complete plastics set so I had all of the plastics needed to mount Gandolf on Shadowfax.

Yeah, maybe I'll just stick with Gandalf the Grey and try to find a stick for him to hold.

#3058 5 years ago

I levelled my game today so the bubble sit between the two lines on the shooter Lane, but with my digital level between the slings, it's reading 6.3.

Higher on the pf it's at 6.5.

I know every game is different, as well as player preferences, but curious to know where you guys have you game set at?

#3061 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Have all my DMD pins at 6.5 degrees on the playfield.

Do you use a digital level?

#3063 5 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I use this that I have for my wood working hobby and love it. It's super compact and I can get it in most places I want to on any PF I'm leveling.
iGaging AngleCube Digital Level + Bevel Gauge 2 in 1 amazon.com link »

Yup, I have one of those as well.

Where on there pf do you gauge your 6.5 level?

I know for me, at the flipper gap, it's like 6.2 degrees, about 6.4 degrees between slings, and 6.6 in the middle of the pf.

#3065 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

I use my phone. I rotate the phone 180deg and confirm the number is the same both ways, which verifies the phone is properly zeroed. I take the reading at the center of the playfield. Same when checking the left/right is level.

Cool. I think I'm at about 6.5-6.6 in the middle.

I finished TABA for the first time last night. Pretty intense mode!

#3074 5 years ago

Just had one of those games... 5 gifts collexted, getting close to completing ROTK and FOTR, but just can't get the shots together!

It's pretty awesome how this game gives you a sense of being so close, but tying up those last few things feels like you actually have to climb Mordor!

1 week later
#3090 5 years ago

I thought I had it tonight!

Had 6 gifts collected, and only needed ROTK. I was on wave 6 of it.

I was about to make the shot to start TABA, so I could start up Ents and build up my dead for ROTK.

Closest I've been! I bricked that ring shots because the nerves got the best of me.

Game is such a rush when you get deep into it!

1 week later
#3097 5 years ago

Well, that's a heartbreaker!

Finally finished everything. Started DTR, and that's all I had left for Valinor!

Unfortunately after making 2 of the shots, I got a cheap outlanes drain that brought my best effort to a halt.

509 million, so at least I walk away with a new GC... But it seriously stings to be that close and lose it

#3112 5 years ago

Was about to install Pinball Pro speakers, but the instructions call for the connector on the speakers to be plugged into J10.

J10 is 9 pins, and the speaker connector only has 5.

Any know what to do?

MVIMG_20180708_000735 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180708_000735 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180708_000756 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180708_000756 (resized).jpg
#3115 5 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Did you get the wrong kit from Pinball Pro? You may have bought the one for SAM games. You need the one for Whitestar games.
http://pinballpro.net/shop/stern-or-late-sega-swtr-4a/

Nope, the kit should be correct.

Can someone confirm if it's J10, or is there another connector?

I think J10 is on the driver board, so maybe the install video was referring to SAM?

Please help!

#3119 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Nope, the kit should be correct.
Can someone confirm if it's J10, or is there another connector?
I think J10 is on the driver board, so maybe the install video was referring to SAM?
Please help!

looking over the manual I think it is supposed to connect to CN4 on the soundboard.

Can anyone confirm?

#3126 5 years ago
Quoted from PinZig:

I dont have the instructions, but Cn4 is where mine is plugged into.

Sweet!

And for the volume control knob, do I actually have to screw it into the header? Would definitely prefer not to.

#3130 5 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

The quest for Valinor is no more.
It was the best feeling I’ve had getting to a Wizard mode, and I’ve been to some good ones, this was arguably the hardest.
When I knew I had everything lined up my nerves kicked in. I had DTR lit but, I had to finish twin towers multiball, so I back handed the shit out of the right ramp to get 3 sets of KEEP locks and these were mostly shots on the fly, not stalled! You have to be so quick to do this. Finished it and grabbed a gift another gift just to be sure.
DTR time. I’ve been here before, I’ve hit that ball in the ring and drained shortly thereafter, but not this time. I tried not to over think it, balls just hanging in the ring, made the 4 shots good and boom.
Soft plunge to the right flipper and wouldn’t you know, I hit that ring twice, hit the ball again but did not jar it loose.
Regain composure, and this time it was dead eye, pop!
Destroyed and Valinor mode and music begins. My work here is finished.
Amazing game.

Congrats!

I was almost there last week! Had it all lined up, started DTR, hit two of the shots, went for the the third and it came back with a funny bounce and drained out on the left outlane. I was crestfallen! Ended up with a score of 509M which was almost double my previous GC.

Getting that close and failing forced me to take a little break from the game. In the interim, I've installed a ColorDMD, and have some Pinball Pro speakers to put in when I get some time.

I'll try again soon...

#3135 5 years ago
Quoted from AJB4:

You should post your achievements in the Valinor Club thread... Now claim your rightful standing with the elite few.

didn't someone at some point create a t-shirt for those who reached the Promised Land?

15
#3138 5 years ago

Is there too much pinball on the brain when you're washing your hands and think... A gift from the elves!

IMG_20180713_123450 (resized).jpgIMG_20180713_123450 (resized).jpg
#3141 5 years ago

Has anyone installed Flipper Fidelity or Pinball Pro speakers in their game? Just wondering if the upgrade is worthwhile.

#3144 5 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Does anyone besides Pinbits make a Gandalf mount for Shadowfax? I have the "surfing" Gandalf and would like to mount Shadowfax but I don't seem to be seeing anyone selling plastic for that..

Please let me know if you find this as well. I'm looking for one.

Quoted from ruzeo:

Has anybody here replaced the cabinet decals on their machine? I can only find them at Retro Refurbs and would love to know the quality of the replacements before I order.

If you find a good source for this please update us. The left side of my blackbox is scuffed.

#3145 5 years ago

Just curious to know what pegs setting was default for the outlane post?

Mine was on the bottom (easiest) when I got the game, but I've moved it to the middle.

When I watch the PAPA Vlainor tutorial, the peg is also on the bottom like mine was initially, so I have no clue.

#3150 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Just curious to know what pegs setting was default for the outlane post?
Mine was on the bottom (easiest) when I got the game, but I've moved it to the middle.
When I watch the PAPA Vlainor tutorial, the peg is also on the bottom like mine was initially, so I have no clue.

Anyone?

#3155 5 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I put in Flipper Fidelity in my LOTR. It was well worth it. You can hear more things now. Some stuff was hard to hear before.

Such as?

I know with MMR, you can hear some of the effects, like the castle gate clanking as it opens.

I had to get the small sub for it since the troll carriage goes down deep into the can, so the bass is limited (which is fine by me).

I'm debating whether to put the new speakers in my LOTR or TWD.

#3157 5 years ago
Quoted from ruzeo:

Definitely the middle pegs. Most routed machines will have them all the way up and most home machines have them already down. Best way to Valinor is to start with the pegs.

I was 3 shots away from Valinor with pegs at bottom. Just one ramp shot, and two ring shots, and it would have been glory!

Moved pegs to the middle and the journey shall continue...

1 week later
#3165 5 years ago

Does this make any sense...

Tracing the speaker wires, it looks like CN4 is where it all connects.

The kit I got from PinballPro has a molex with 4 female contacts, but CN4 has 6 pins.

However, when I look at the factory molex, it the bottom two spots on the molex are unused, so in actuality, only 4 pinsare used.

Does this look right?

IMG_20180729_185133 (resized).jpgIMG_20180729_185133 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#3185 5 years ago

Having an issue where during DTR the magnet in the ring doesn't seem to catch like it does the rest of the game. Seems to take a lot more attempts than it does trying to start a mode for instance.

Is this normal?

#3187 5 years ago
Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:

Have you checked the spinner switch? When the spinner is spinning the switch causes the magnet to turn on. When the spinner stops spinning, if a ball is not in the ring the magnet should turn off.

I'll check that out. It's strange because the magnet seems to hold the ball during regular gameplay but when I get to DTR it seems significantly harder to get the ball in the magnet. Almost seemed like it was intentionally designed that way for that mode but doesn't really make that much sense.

also I think the ramp may need an alignment fix. Can anyone take a photo of their ramp with maybe a straight edge ruler to show how closely the angle of the ramp lines up to the hole.

1 week later
#3201 5 years ago

Wondering if someone can quickly post a pic their ring ramp, with maybe a small ruler or something flat to showing how it lines up with the ring hole.

Thanks

#3202 5 years ago

Can anyone tell me if this post to the right of the ramp is supposed to have a rubber sleeve on it?

IMG_20180825_182435 (resized).jpgIMG_20180825_182435 (resized).jpg
#3204 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yes, mine has one.

Cool, thanks!

Can anyone help with this. Was trying to take Balrog apart, and the top of the bulb snapped off. When I tried to remove the base, it's attached by a thin wire.

What should I do?

IMG_20180825_184820 (resized).jpgIMG_20180825_184820 (resized).jpgIMG_20180825_184853 (resized).jpgIMG_20180825_184853 (resized).jpg
#3207 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

WOW, the bottom of the bulb base pulled out and is stuck to the spring inside the bulb holder. Is that what it looks like to you?
See if that will pull out without wrecking the bulb holder, and get a new balrog LED flasher.

Looks like the holder is broken. That springy wire has detached from the bottom and is kind of wobbling around. Anyone know where I can get a replacement?

#3208 5 years ago

Ok guys, now I have a big problem!

While I was trying to fix the leaf switch on Balrog today, I ended up breaking the bulb and the housing (see post above).

When I went to turn the game back on, I'm getting a loud humming sound from the cabinet speaker (much louder than it sounds in the video), and everything along J7 appears to be out (Balrog motor, upper right VUK, sword lock, slings, etc.).

I also noticed that fuse F7 keeps blowing. I've put a few fuses in already and they blow immediately.

Another thing I've noticed is that the Balrog seem to not tuck into hiding all the way. When I push it manually, it just pops back and sort of sits in the middle as you'll see in the video.

I've gone as far as I can with the manual. Looks like J7 goes to a DC Bi directional relay board, but not sure what that is.

Any thoughts on what this might be, or what I should check?

#3210 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Since you were working on Balrog concentrate on that. The two common failures surrounding Balrog are the relay PCB mounted underneath the playfield near Balrog (cold/broken solder joints) or the Balrog wire harness (broken wires inside the sheath which could short against each other). Additionally you may have caused a short working on the Balrog switch itself. I’d put my money on the latter, the Balrog harness or the switch.

Just sent you a PM.

I'll take a look around to see if anything looks off or I see any cold soldering points.

Is that switch or bulb on the inside of Balrog part of the J7 matrix. Looked to me like the motor on the bottom of the pf was, but nothing on top.

I'll check that PCB if I can find it.

Man, always something with pinball!

#3211 5 years ago

So where exactly is that PCB? Tried looking under the pf, but see nothing there.

Also, detached the wire harness that goes up to Balrog (switch and bulb I believe) and humming sound persists.

#3214 5 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

That Balrog flasher socket is in the circuit for F7. I would replace that socket cause I've never seen anything like that. It could be shorting. If you're still blowing the fuse with the Balrog disconnected, it could be Bridge Rectifier#2. Try disconnecting J6 and J7 to rule out anything on the playfield. If F7 still blows, I would say it could only be a shorted B2. Do you have a meter and do you know how to check a bridge rectifier? Stock up on 5 amp slo blows. You're probably going to go through a bunch to get this problem solved.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You guys are all so awesome.

I'm dropping by a friend's place now to pick up a breaker fuse as I burned through about 10 of them last night trying to figure things out.

does anyone know if it makes sense that the issue with j7 would be causing this humming in the cabinet speaker?

#3215 5 years ago

Ok, so I snipped the bulb socket off, electrical taped the exposed ends (will have to fix when I get a new socket) and Balrog (and everything on the J7 circuit) are back in business!!!

On the downside, the buzzing/humming from the cabinet speaker persists!

Any thoughts on what this could be?

How do I check the CN4 connectors on the board to ensure they are ok?

#3216 5 years ago

Continuing here... When I unplug the speaker molex from the board (CN4) the buzzing obviously stops.

Could it be that I damaged the pins or part of the board pushing the connector into CN4?

The backbox speakers sound fine, but the cab speaker is letting out a really loud and maddening buzz.

Any help would be appreciated.

#3229 5 years ago

Can anyone confirm if the cab and back box speakers run off the same amp?

#3231 5 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Looks like there are three TDA2030A's, U100 - U102 and each one drives a speaker. I can't tell which one drives which speaker from the schematic. They are just labeled 1, 2 , 3 at CN4. You could check the wire colors I suppose to see which speaker is which.
[quoted image]

As far as I understand 1+/- is the backbox (both speakers), 2+/- is the cabinet speaker, and 3+/- is unused.

Is there a way for me to test the TDA2030A's to check if they're faulty?

And does anyone know why 3 is left unused?

#3233 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

There are actually only 2, every component marked as "NS" indicated that the component position is Not Stuffed, so there is actual part on the board.

Maybe that makes a little more sense, since the keypin is between 2 and 3. So 1 is actually the pins that are not wired in the molex. Does anyone know why they even have those pins there?

#3237 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Grrrrrrr!!!!!!! Someone put a really good DTR time on my game, and I can't get rid of it! I've been playing it like crazy, and since then I'm not even destroying the ring, let alone with a good time. I'll make 3 or 4 really good shots, and then drain. One game I had picked off the 4 shots and put the first ball into the magnet, and then my next shot to the ring bounced out and drained (I swear I would have had it if I'd hit the ball). Stupid game.

Has a lot to do with levelling in my opinion. Had my game set up and was getting times in the 30s. Now it's moved to another spot, and level has changed, and now I'm lucky to get it under 1 minute.

Reset the saved scores. Make it your game

2 weeks later
#3269 5 years ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

I'm considering the color DMD.

It's fantastic on this game!

#3278 5 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

My LOTR is under an LED light in my basement. I made a video of a 14 minute game but not close up to the LED display. I also made a 6 minute video with a close up. I think LED looks great in LOTR, TOM, and ST LE. I have LCD in Spiderman and STTNG. I have the Spiderman at large DOTs and the STTNG on the setting that blends the dots. I think I like LED better. Of course that is always a subjective personal opinion.
Close up video:
Longer video:
Hope this helps. Michael

What the major difference between the LCD and LED? I put LCD in mine.

#3284 5 years ago

Wondering if someone can take a quick look at their game, and confirm if the speaker wires are the same as it my photos.

My TSPP has the black striped wires going to "+".

Would really appreciate any help on this.

Thanks

IMG_20180919_160044 (resized).jpgIMG_20180919_160044 (resized).jpgIMG_20180919_160106 (resized).jpgIMG_20180919_160106 (resized).jpgIMG_20180919_160120 (resized).jpgIMG_20180919_160120 (resized).jpg
#3286 5 years ago

So you have black striped wires going to "+"?

Do you know if reversing the polarity (as I had done unknowingly) could have caused something to go on the CPU/sound board?

#3288 5 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Yes, black stripe is positive. It shouldnt do any damage if you reversed them, it just won't work. The signal is going out to the sub, not flowing back in.

The top amp gets much hotter than the one below it.

That normal?

#3295 5 years ago

Quick question, is the light bulb in Balrog supposed to be a 89 bulb? I just order a new bulb socket, but it's bigger than the one that I am replacing, which used a 44 bulb.

So one of them isn't right. Which one?

#3297 5 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

No it's a 44/47 socket. It's just a 12v bulb though, so they are harder to get in that size/voltage.
The socket part number is: 077-5003-00-80
Here is one bulb that fits the 44/47 and is 12 volts:
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/5smd12vba9s.htm

So this is wrong?

balrog (resized).pngbalrog (resized).png
#3301 5 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

See Service Bulletin #148 (Balrog LED Module Installation) for more details:
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/downloads/sb148.pdf

Interesting... So the bulletin shows I need this part:

http://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=077-5003-00-80

Is it the same as this:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4441

#3303 5 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

Those two parts don’t look the same, but the latter one (Pinball Life) appears to be the same mini bayonet socket used in the out-of-stock Balrog LED Kit at Marco Specialties:
LORD OF THE RINGS (STERN) BALROG LED KIT (#502-5022-00)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5022-00
That is the exact kit part number referenced in the Service Bulletin, and the bayonet socket appears to match the socket photos at the top and bottom of the Service Bulletin.
Note: You will need to bend the 2 solder lugs and the screw lug for the light assembly to fit inside the Balrog bash toy, as you can see more clearly in the bottom right photo on the Service Bulletin, showing it actually mounted inside the Balrog. Also don’t forget to add the insulators on the solder lugs to prevent electrical shorts.

The Action Pinball one seems to be the right part, seeing thelat it is referenced as the Balrog replacement, and also the lugs and mounting arm are pre-bent.

Do you guys think this is the one? The Pinball Life one seems to be a standard socket, but not what would fit Balrog (without adjustments).

Marco may not restock, and I'd like to try to fix this sooner than later.

I'd appreciate your thoughts on this.

#3307 5 years ago

Just went to look at a machine that someone is selling. The coin door has 3 slots and the power supply says Canada. They did not have coin mech on the door.

Does this sound normal? Was Stern selling games like this or has it been modified?

#3308 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Just went to look at a machine that someone is selling. The coin door has 3 slots and the power supply says Canada. They did not have coin mech on the door.
Does this sound normal? Was Stern selling games like this or has it been modified?

Also, the born date on this game is 2006. Didn't realize they were producing them this late.

I'm really curious to know why this one has 3 coin slots and no coin mechs.

Anyone?

#3314 5 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Pinball is illegal in Canada mabey that’s why no coin mec

Funny, eh?

We can get in more trouble for pinball than marijuana!

I love this country!

#3315 5 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

Mine is the same.

Did you get yours NIB or buy second hand like that?

Also, when your game boots, do you get this screen? Can this be turned off with the dip switches so it is USA and does not show this screen?

And can you guys confirm that this is the latest software?

MVIMG_20180926_001420 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180926_001420 (resized).jpg
#3319 5 years ago

When you like LOTR too much!

IMG_20180926_000550 (resized).jpgIMG_20180926_000550 (resized).jpg
#3320 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Yup, Standard adjustment 45: fast boot => Yes
I make a note of settings I touch, so I can recover after a battery swap.

SA 42 Coindoor Ball save = Yes
FA 33 Cave Troll = ON
FA 34 = consolation balrog = none
FA 36 = Extend attract = Yes

Curious to know about these settings. Can you explain them a little more. What do they do?

#3322 5 years ago

Wondering if anyone might know this... I have two LOTR pins at my house right now, but one of them will be going to a new home soon.

One was manufactured in 2005 and the other in 2006.

A few things I've noticed:

- the playfield art is clearer on the 2006
- the clearcoat seems thicker and skinnier on the 2006
- inserts on the 2005 are pretty flush to the pf, but on the 2006 they all are slightly raised
- balrog on the 2006 is matte, and it's shinny on the 2005

Just wondering if there is anything to this. Did they change anything near the end of production, or was this luck of the draw?

#3334 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

What the $*@&??? Are you serious??

There was a ban in Montreal that was recently lifted:

https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/montreal/pinball-north-star-montreal-bylaw-1.4062263

You'd never know it, as Canadians are typically very liberal and open minded, but no one is perfect

2 weeks later
#3362 5 years ago

I have two LOTRs at my place right now, and one of them seems to have an issue when the VUK fires the ball up to the POTD.

The ball fires out pretty forcefully, and usually walks against the side wall (cabinet) before making its way down past the switches. Often it comes out so quickly that the first set of switches don't even register the ball passing over.

There are also times when the VUK shoots it up, it hits the side wall and bounces right back down into the VUK.

Is this a common problem, and is there a suggested fix for it?

Thanks!

#3365 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

It has been mentioned that there is a delay and the POTD switches are not immediately active when the VUK shoots the ball up, so occasionally not registering in the top row is not unusual. (I guess that is done, so the VUK does not shake that upper playfield and cause a switch to register without a hit.)
It is also not unusual that the ball will sometimes hit the wall and bounce back down to the VUK again. There is a mod sold which is a flat plastic that lays in the upper right corner of the upper playfield to keep the ball from rolling back down the VUK.
Not sure why your VUK is kicking too hard. Did you check the coil and stopper and confirm everything is secure and looks OK? Does it have the same coil as your other LOTR?

I'll have to check the coil when I have a chance. Do you have a link to that mod?

1 week later
#3369 5 years ago

Anyone have this issue where the ball get stuck on on the edge of the wireworm as it ejects from the VUK?

Also, the nuts on the left side of the wireworm is missing, is this intentional?

And the weird washer on top of the post, is that right?

IMG_20181027_010926 (resized).jpgIMG_20181027_010926 (resized).jpg

#3375 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Mine rarely gets stuck there. There should be a nut holding the wireform.
Your washer is much larger than mine. It only needs to keep balls from trapping between the Palantir and Balrog. The smaller washer would probably let the ball fall out of there.

that's weird. The machine I have is home use only and rarely used from what I can see. The previous owner I doubt changed anything. Could it have come from the factory like this?

Can anyone share a photo of the same area of their game so I can compare. Thanks.

#3377 5 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Photo. Now I see, your post is supposed to hold the ramp down. Move that post with the washer!!
[quoted image]

Hmmmmmm... Is there a small washer between the post and wireform?

#3380 5 years ago

Weird, seems everyone has a different setup.

Anyone an original owner that never changed it? Want to know how it was set out of the factory.

#3385 5 years ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

Here you go. I bought my game NIB. [quoted image]

Interesting... And you never changed anything?

1 week later
#3408 5 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Well, the plot thickens. I’ve ruled out the nvram. Swapped it with known good. Works both ways. Checked all fuses and they test ok.
Basically now the game works fine except the ColorDMD.
I’m pretty convinced it’s a power issue. The red led on the dmd board sometimes comes on sometimes not. Full disclosure there is a ledocd board and flipperfidelity speakers. I’ve never owned FF speakers. Do they always have the big volume knob in the back box?
And I swapped in the lcd version of ColorDMD instead of the led version that came with it. Led version was working fine but I like the lcd version better in lotr so I put the led one in my tspp. Any thoughts? (If I don’t hear any other ideas I guess I’ll swap back the led and see if that works now).
[quoted image][quoted image]

When installing my ColorDMD, the menu screen would come up, but the game would not display on the DMD.

It was one of the ribbon cables. I reversed it, and it fired up.

Not sure if that fixes your issue, but it seems like you're getting the menu up on screen, which indicates DMD itself is fine.

1 week later
#3418 5 years ago

Quick question... Does it become more difficult to hit the ring during DTR?

I feel like I can hit it pretty consistently in normal play, but in DTR, it seems like the ball is hitting that ramp with less power.

Anyone else experience this?

#3422 5 years ago
Quoted from kmann:

Re: flipper coils losing power, that’s why a lot of people switch them out. Pinball life sells high powered ones. Those came with mine but I found them to be too powerful so replaced them with the mid powered ones that apb enterprises sells through their pinside shop. I found those to work well.

Bought two pairs. Maybe I should install them

2 weeks later
#3446 5 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

I do have the APB coils in my game and they do help a lot, you're right. Tried the PBL one's as well and I felt as though I was going to destroy not only the ring but my entire playfield. They're waaay too strong IMO.

Do the APB coils improve the shot power to get the ball into the ring.

Right now, with stock coils, my game often does not make the shot into the ring, and basically hits the outside and drops down.

1 week later
#3464 5 years ago

Just spent about 10 minutes in TT MB. I couldn't believe how long it was going on for. Usually it's like 20 seconds, but somehow I was hitting all the shots.

Then when I got back to single ball, it was drain, drain, drain... Haha! F'ng pinball!

#3478 5 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

It's a pain in the ass to install and changes the physics of the ball on the PF. I did it on exactly one game I have owned and never did it again. Not worth it (or necessary) in my opinion. BTW my LOTR I purchased new in 2004 and it is still in great shape. I bought a replacement PF, had it professionally clear coated, and it's hanging on the wall in case I ever need it down the line. To me, that is my protection since this game wont ever leave my collection (it was my first pin and a surprise Christmas present from my wife).

That's exactly what I did too. I have a brand new clear coated playfield sitting in my in-laws basement. I'll pick it up one of these days haha.

#3479 5 years ago

I'm absolutely crestfallen. I had my best game of LOTR yet. Completed everything I needed and then started DTR to get to Valinor.

I had been there once before and my nerves got the best of me. Last time I hit one or two of the required shots and drained down the side. This time I took a little pause and tried to just chill.

Made the four required shots and then hit the first ring shot. Just one shot left and it was over. I must have shot that ring ramp 8 to 10 times. Every time it just seemed to fall short. The magnet just wasn't grabbing it.

Eventually my luck ran out and the ball drained. I just flopped back on the couch and facepalmed.

Not sure if my game is suffering from a weak magnet or the usual flipper coil weakness after a long game, but this one really hurt!

think I'm going to take a little break from pinball after this one. One shot away... One f**** shot haha!!!

#3490 5 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Followed the link, but says doesn't ship internationally. Any spot for us Canadians?

I had to ship it to my US Post office box. I usually pick my mail up every few months. If you want to ship it to me I can forward it to you when I head out to Buffalo next time.

#3491 5 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

If anyone doesn't have the APB coils, please do yourself a favor and pick them up. It really helps when hitting the left ramp or center ramp during normal play but especially helps on those long playing sessions (with LOTR ball times, we all know how often that happens). Definitely the best $30 spent on a mod for your game.

Funny thing is, I have a set of them here. I was worried it would change the feel of the game (shots being harder/faster).

I'd love for the game to play the way it does now but remain the same strength during long gameplay.

Do the upgraded coils feel different?

#3495 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I picked up a pair of these about 2 weeks ago. I read good things about them, and I used to have a different LOTR months ago that had them. Only slightly more powerful, but just enough to make the shots a bit crisper and the ring shot more confident. They don't seem to tire during long play either.
Question - can you give me a basic install 101 on how to replace these? I assume simply remove the original coils by de-soldering and then replace these and solder the wires back on? I'm new to soldering, just bought an iron and station. But I would like the stronger flipper coils if I can install them myself.
Any tips are appreciated!

Yes. Even easier, just snip old ones, and leave a tiny piece so you can refer to the wire colours.

Watch a couple soldering videos on YouTube, and ask any questions you have here

I've never done it on a Stern but I've done it on many B/W games. Same idea though.

the only thing that I am unsure about is how you align the flipper bats. I know with B/W games, you can put a toothpick in the alignment hole and just rest the bottom of the bat on that. Not sure how you do it with Stern though.

#3506 5 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

Fair enough. He asked about Stern games, but in a LOTR thread. I felt your answer could be interpreted incorrectly, and wanted to make sure that people don't take it as the proper method, which it is not. Damien likes his games to be set up factory, and knowing the proper method will help him.
My passion for this issue is related to the number of times I have been forced to use misaligned flipper bats in competition. Just this past weekend at a local IFPA event, a Fish Tales was aligned like a Stern, and it ruined gameplay.

I appreciate you both chiming in on this. No need for anyone to get upset. We are all in it for fun.

I definitely like my games to play as they were designed and intended. I know with my attack from Mars I tried to change the droopy flippers to align with the outlane and I really did not like it.

I guess it all depends on how you like to play your games, no exact right or wrong answers here. I personally like factory everything, right down to the mods (I don't care much for mods).

but these are my games and I can do what I want with them. And everyone is entitled to the same luxury.

Play pinball, have fun!

#3507 5 years ago

Expanding on this, you'll notice all the alignments are slightly different.

The only game that was NIB, and I can confirm was never changed, is my TWD. On this on, the alignment hole seems to line up with the center of the tip of the bat.

On TSPP, it's more to the top corner of the bat.

Which one is right?

IMG_20181219_200037 (resized).jpgIMG_20181219_200037 (resized).jpgIMG_20181219_200058 (resized).jpgIMG_20181219_200058 (resized).jpgIMG_20181219_200107 (resized).jpgIMG_20181219_200107 (resized).jpg
#3510 5 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

TWD is almost perfect, the others need adjustment.
The end of the flipper should point directly at the hole. /Story

Can you post a photo of the alignment on your tspp?

#3523 5 years ago

Trying to find details on what was changed in older code versions, but can't seem to find any information on it.

Anyone know where to look?

3 weeks later
#3578 5 years ago
Quoted from Toby:

New member really like it so far
[quoted image]

Greatest, most complete game ever!

I don't play mine often, as games can go on a while, but when I do I enjoy it more than anything else I own or have played.

A few weeks ago, I was on the final shot to the ring to reach Valinor. Played one game last night, and was pretty close to starting the final DTR.

There's simply no other games that pulls you in like this one does!

2 weeks later
#3664 5 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

What brand is the silver lid wax you are talking about?

This is all you will ever need:

https://www.pinballlife.com/blitz-carnauba-paste-wax-12-ounce-jar.html

Vid recommends it, and pretty much everyone that uses it, swears by it.

#3713 5 years ago
Quoted from Chids:

Hey guys!
Looking to get my 2nd pin and have my heart set on LOTR. Is there any major differences between the 03 and 04/5/6 runs? Should I be holding out for a particular year? Figured this is the best place to ask thanks all!

I've owned two. The earlier one had a thinner clear coat and lower resolution print on the pf. My late production game has crisper graphics on the pf, and the clear looks closer to what Stern does today, which could be a good or bad thing depending.

In all honesty though, I liked how the early production one played more!

Not sure that answer was helpful at all

#3735 5 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Congrats. I also finally got to Valinor on Jan. 24.
I have not been playing for score in the last few years, only for Valinor. One thing that hurts me is I am not good about giving in and holding the ball on the flipper to time out modes I don't need to finish like TABA which often causes me to lose a ball.

A couple months ago, I was one very final shot away from starting Valinor. My game is still running the factory coils, so it didn't have to power to get me into the ring. I actually shot it 7-8 times clean, but it just flopped over the ramp. Pretty much my most disappointing pinball moment haha.

Ended game at 430M, and really haven't had the urge to turn it on since!

I think I'll install the medium powered coils when I have a moment, and then get back to my quest for Valinor!

#3755 5 years ago
Quoted from ninjabones:

Thank you. Ordered. Much appreciated. I'm having the same DTR issue as well. I'll recheck/adjust the spinner and ring switches and report back (the ring magnet works fine throughout the game, but DTR sometimes requires multiple ring shots to complete - very frustrating. )

Exactly the same issue here. Let us know what you find out.

#3756 5 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Still can’t decide between brass and black.
Now with matching feet..?[quoted image][quoted image]

You should get feet and bolts powdered too!

But seriously, that looks so damn sexy! I think I have to do it now!!!

#3778 5 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Thanks for all the opinions.
Went with black leg bolts/feet:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is pinball porn, man!

You know what I'll be looking at tonight when the wife falls asleep

#3810 5 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

A good deal on an immaculate HUO LOTR > Mods
Find the mods or don't later, you've still got a great example of one of the best games out there.

Same game we talked about?

#3817 5 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

I have three I am looking at currently.....
What worries me is that I may buy, then Stern announces a Vault. That is why I sold mine 4 years ago. I mean, they HAVE TO make a vault right?

Pinzap hit it right on the head. You can't make a perfect game better.

If they remade this one, and as said by Pinzap they are very unlikely to reuse or remaster the original audio as it was pretty low quality. They would have a very very difficult time recreating or reimagining the epic callouts. Audio is a huuuuuuuge part of what makes this game such a classic.

I recently purchased a Spidey original because although the art package might be better on the SMVE, the audio is well worth sticking to the original.

I also let go of a Medieval Madness remake to hold on to an original, so at least as far as I'm concerned, originals will always be better.

They will also hold a place in pinball history.

#3825 5 years ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

I'm no expert on the subject, I've just heard that there are certain early playfields where the color pallette is off -- apparently it makes Frodo's eyes look red. Someone else will have to chime in to give details.

I've owned two LOTRs. I don't know it was so much colour as it was resolution. The current one I have is noticeably clearer than the previous one where the art was fuzzy. It doesn't really matter to me, but there definitely were changes in the production in later games. I see that with my TSPP as well. It's also why I now never buy a game at launch. I like to wait 1-2 years for them to work out all the bugs. Perfect example would be BM66.

And on the topic of LOTR, I decided to have a quick game of pinball this afternoon while working at home (terrible idea, since "quick" and "LOTR" don't often go together).

Pissed away ball 1 and 2, and on the third ball, I finished FOTR, and TT multiball. I also got to level 6 on ROTK. Finished DTR and looked at the clock and decided to walk away and finish the game at some point tonight. I have 2 extra balls waiting for me, so maybe this is the Valinor game

Playing this afternoon, I also reminded myself why this game will always be bolted to my floor, and why in my opinion, this is the perfect game of pinball.

#3838 5 years ago
Quoted from ninjabones:

Ok. I get it. Not a bad idea. I got very close to valinor yesterday. Took me almost an hour... would have been nice to take a break. I got to "there and back again" for the first time, had FOTR and TT completed, but still needed 2 gifts and ROTK. 121M was my new high score. Still refining my strategy... what modes do you guys typically stack with which multiballs, and which modes do you try to tackle by themselves. I've found attack from shallob, Gandalf vs Saruman, and Warg Battle to be achievable in their own, but I find it hard to focus on modes when in multiballs (except for maybe ent battle).

ROTK is the biggest obstacle. I've had many games where everything is checked off except that. When you have a good game going, and you finish ROTK, you know that could potentially be your Valinor game.

I had level 6 on ball 3 with 2 extra balls left, and when I got back to my game, I just wasn't in the zone and I pissed it all away.

I've been one final shot away from Valinor, and only failed because the flipper coils were all fizzed out.

I rarely play LOTR as it's such a time commitment, but I feel confident I'll get to the end of of these days.

Such a fantastic game!

#3840 5 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Hey guys.
Anyone know who sells the POtD mod? I bought from Hemi years ago but I’m sure he is out. Are there any instructions how to make one? I have a ton of extra figures I purchased in the event of a remake/vault that are sitting waiting to be used....

Why wait to play a great game? Why don't you pick up the original HUO that you've been looking at and if a remake ever happens (unlikely) you can always sell to an enthusiast like me that would take an original over a vault any day.

#3851 5 years ago

Anyone else have an issue where when hitting the ring ramp, it seem like the ball gets slowed down by the spinner?

I feel like a lot of clean shots fall short of making the shot into the ring, especially as the game progresses.

Anyone else?

#3853 5 years ago
Quoted from butterz:

Try the upgraded coils. I got the stronger ones, ring shot is not an issue.

Was it an issue before?

#3882 5 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I know I'm in the minority here, but I feel the same way about LEDs on this title.

I've changed all my games to LEDs except this one, and perhaps my original MM (debating that one).

I've owned two LOTRs, and the first one I did with warm 2 SMDs from Comet and it looked great. But the original incandescent just feels better on this game.

#3892 5 years ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

It's definitely possible with modern LEDs along with an LED OCD to do it tastefully. The key is using single smd, warm white bulbs for anything above the playfield and only use colors where you are merely enhancing what is already there, not arbitrarily adding purple bulbs or whatever lol.
The OCD by default runs the bulbs at 85% which softens them even further. Q
I only have 1 incandescent left in mine, the Ringwraith red tinted flasher. I think it still holds very true to the original feel of the game. [quoted image]

I did LED and OCD in my previous LOTR. I went with 2 SMD warm from Comet, and although it looked great, it doesn't look like stock.

So with 1 SMD, have you found that playing with the OCD settings can get it looking close to incandescent?

#3894 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

1 SMD Warm White with LEDOCD and GIzmo, some color LEDs in inserts and backboard. Lighting effects look perfect with OCD.[quoted image]

For me, the bigger difference is the colour, not the fading effects. Seems the colour on the SMDs is still which white than incadescent.

#3897 5 years ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

Here is the same shot one with LotR stock and one with LEDs...[quoted image][quoted image]

The LED looks more white/yellow, and the incandescent looks sort of white/orange. Of my 7 games, all of them are LED except for MM and LOTR. I think I'm going to change over my MM to 1 SMD warm, and I might keep LOTR stock because I just think it fits. Can't go wrong either way though!

#3898 5 years ago

Decided to play a quick game this evening. Had everything done and just needed a few more shots for ROTK (even had DTR flashing).

Just couldn't pull it off!

Have a question about Witch King. How many shots are needed? I swear I hit at least 12-14!

#3950 5 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Is there a kit you can buy? I have all of the AOME figures....just need the rest!

Did you finally pull the trigger on the game?

1 week later
#4004 5 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

What fuses control the sound on LOTR?
I dont have a manual and ai could use some help. My sound went out.

Did the sound go out completely, or is it muffled?

#4028 5 years ago

Watched a couple streams of LOTR, and now realize that my ring shot is definitely not where it should be.

I can basically never hit it on the fly, and even making the shot from trapping is even difficult.

My previous LOTR was much easier to hit the ring on, so I'm wondering if it has more to do with the angle of the ramp, or the spinner.

Anyone else ever have to make this kind of adjustment, and if so, what worked?

#4030 5 years ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

There are a few posts in the thread where folks adjusted the ends up the spinner so that it means forward. This should help the ball to go under it without draining your velocity.

I think that is what is happening. Anyone know where a link to that post might be?

I'll have to look into it when I get back home.

1 week later
#4080 5 years ago

When I have War of the Ents running, a shot to the left orbit drops into the tower as it should, but shots to the right orbit just circle around. If I hit the shot three times in a row, it will hit the post and drop in.

Anyone have this issue?

#4084 5 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

There are posts about adding a post sleeve on the up post diverter to make it so the right orbit shot will work to send the ball under the tower. Mine has worked well since adding the sleeve a few years ago.

Just a regular sized post rubber? Or a thin one, like Titans?

Thanks!

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