(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

9 years ago


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5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (6 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (4 years ago)

Post #5383 LOTR documentation for silicone rings and LEDs Posted by Daditude (4 years ago)

Post #9244 TECH:PLAYFIELD Opto Driver replacement board warning Posted by PinMonk (1 year ago)


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#8036 2 years ago

Happy to say I am officially part of the Fellowship. Slowly but surely making my way through all the older posts to decide which mods to go with (Color DMD, palantir, etc…).

In the meantime, would anyone know which size hex nut caps the slings? Just noticed it is missing. Thanks!

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#8039 2 years ago

AUKraut Jarbyjibbo
Thanks. I would like to get the ColorDMD but am still trying to resolve an issue with one that was just put into my TSPP. The display registers and shows the correct image when a shot is made but when the ball is in play it cycles through and displays random other images. ColorDMD support says it’s a communication error from the board to the CPU and recommended the 26-pin be removed and put back in but when I did that it didn’t resolve the issue. So until I get that fixed and have confidence in the ColorDMD I’ll hold off on getting one for LOTR. I have been bookmarking posts on this thread and will need to look into Pinsound.

#8042 2 years ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

I colored several titles for ColorDMD, the board doesn’t know anything about what’s happening in the game - it ‘converts’ whatever image it’s given to color. If the display works in attract mode, then the display is ok.
When you say it doesn’t work when you make some shots.
Does it switch from color to monochrome during the game? If so, it might not have the right ROM installed. I did that on accident once when I download the wrong machine ROM for a new display. If the card doesn’t recognize the image, it displays in the default color.

Yeah, I think I need to swap out ribbon cables and see if that fixes it. I wasn’t the one who actually installed the ColorDMD but when I played a game after it was in everything was fine. Then 2-3 weeks later I fired it up again, noticed the display wasn’t showing properly (in high scores “BRIAN” was showing as “BRIAJ” and was showing random messages like “49 balls are missing”). When in play it then cycled through random images but when I hit the shots the correct one displayed. I think when we initially instead it I downloaded the wrong game file from the ColorDMD before downloading/installing the right one into the display but hope that’s not causing the issue.

Nevertheless, once I get that fixed I’ll surely get one for the LOTR. I’ve cycled through most of these posts and here’s my list in order for the LOTR LE I just acquired, which has no mods:

-silly old elf art blades (currently out of stock, sent PM inquiring about next run)
-shaker motor (LE software is compatible but I still need to purchase/install, correct?)
-ColorDMD
-Palantir mod (2 versions seem available)
-NVRAM
-POTD (need to source figures, then purchase acrylic and lighting)
-Anduril sword ramp
-Arwen plastic protector
-Pinsound (lowest priority since I’d have no idea how to install)
-Custom plunger
-Carbon balls (if experienced magnetism issues)

Mine has incandescent so will leave it as is.

#8052 2 years ago

Anyone know what the flipper adj setting does? Seems to have 3 settings (Adj 1, Adj 2, Adj 3).

I’m finding the flipper to be a bit weak for my taste to get up the center ramp and into the ring. Does that mean I should consider a coil replacement (medium strength?) or can I change those settings to make it stronger?

#8056 2 years ago

LOTR_breath Jarbyjibbo

Thanks. I did see previous posts about medium coils and no mention of a flipper strength adjustment setting. I believe on my newer Stern there’s actually a flipper strength setting but it sounds like that wasn’t an option for the older ones.

#8064 2 years ago

Is there a “right way” to put these decal stickers on? I was thinking just popping off the glass and putting them on. Should I wipe off the target first (with anything specific?) or should I be fine just sticking them on?

Also noticed that factory machines have the metal dot in the middle of their “stickers” but if I put these on it would cover the dot. Guessing that wouldn’t be a problem?

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2 weeks later
#8105 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

I finally added a color dmd after owning this for 6 or 7 years. I chose the LED version because I wanted the brightest. This is set on medium levels, and is brighter in person. I added foam door insulation strips around the clear screen because there was a big gap through which you could see into the backbox.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How do your POTD figures stay on? Are they just glued down to it? Do they also light up or are they the figures only?

#8113 2 years ago

Potential spoiler alert…

…but figure it’s fine since this game has been out for almost 20 years.

One month into ownership and just have to say this game is as good as I hoped it would be. Love the theme and still learning the gameplay as apparently after many games I thought I understood everything. However, a couple of nights ago I was pleasantly surprised to find out that my efforts against Saruman weren’t over after being sent to the top of the tower and the display showing me the “Gandalf vs. Saruman” total. One additional shot up the middle continued the journey. I tried to replicate it again but it looked like that additional shot changed to Merry’s. Does that shot rotate or was I not paying attention?

Are there any other episodes that have continued scenes after showing the episode’s total by making additional shots?

#8116 2 years ago

Great, I’ll definitely read up on that at some point. For the time being I don’t mind learning live and being pleasantly surprised.

3 weeks later
#8195 1 year ago

During the Escape the Ringwraiths mode there’s a note on the screen to hit the Ringwraith target to extend the time. Is that the Palantir target? I know that the Palantir Target extends the modes by 10 seconds but never knew it was referred to as the Ringwraith target.

#8202 1 year ago
Quoted from Tommy_Pins:

I've noticed an issue when locking a ball on the sword ramp, occasionally a ball fails to eject into the shooter lane. The ball trough coil doesn't go off, its like the game just forgets to send a ball up. The game starts the searching for pinballs procedure and eventually kicks up a ball to the shooter lane. It gets pretty annoying because its like a 10-20 second break in the game. I did the switch test and all the ball trough switches are working, even the opto.
Anyone else have this issue? I'm not really sure what it could be. thanks

What’s weird is that this happened to me this morning. I considered it a one off and opened the door and manually plunged it into the lane. I’ll monitor going forward as my machine had some weird things happening this morning so hoping it will be back to normal when I play next.

For instance, this morning when starting a new game and plunging the ball from shooter lane past the right orbit the “Merry” switch gets activated automatically, therefore picking him up immediately. I don’t think that has happened before. Then when plunging ball 2 after Merry was deemed collected it still activated that switch and gives off updates like “3 Rings of Men”. It’s not normal for that switch to be activated right from the start, right?

Another thing that happened this morning was when in multiball the auto plunger doesn’t kick off all the time so there end up being 2 or more balls in the lane. It eventually goes to ball search and then kicks them to the playfield but I even had 3 balls get stuck where the auto plunger didn’t have the muster to shoot them all into the playfield so had to take off the glass to do so.

I’m hoping today was a total fluke and will try back later but if these have been common issues with others then I’d appreciate any insight, thanks.

#8211 1 year ago

Would someone mind confirming that the bracket switch shown shouldn’t register (as Merry) when the game immediately starts and you plunge a ball through the right orbit? Mine is so it collects Merry right away. If I plunge softly with not enough speed to pass through it, but instead it falls backwards down the right orbit it hits what I presume is the correct Merry switch that’s on the playfield but even then it seems to collect Merry. This is the first time I recall getting Merry regardless of which switch so that doesn’t seem to be correct and not sure why the game is registering that shot right away.

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1 week later
#8230 1 year ago

Are the medium coils applicable for the LE versions also? I have an LE and feel like the flippers are pretty weak but thought I read somewhere that the LE shouldn’t need these special coils.

1 week later
#8240 1 year ago

Want to be sure I’m not being paranoid as I never really paid attention to it before. When your multiballs start (FOTR, TT, ROTK, Ring Frenzy) is it normal for 2 balls to get kicked into the lane, then after a brief pause the auto plunger pushes them both into the playfield?

Never really noticed but thought it would have been one kicked into the lane and then plunged, then another after.

1 month later
#8412 1 year ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Got my sillyoldelf art blades in they look killer. Thank you!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Are those still being sold? I didn’t see anything on the market a couple of months ago and reached out to him directly but don’t recall receiving a reply.

4 months later
#8898 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNecromancer:

Thanks for all the feedback on my question guys. I don't believe there's a Pinsound board. The other thing that concerns me is how to judge the condition of the game as I have little to no experience with used and having never had hands on a physical game I'm not sure where this falls in good, bad or excellent etc.
I'll do some more reading on the forum here. Thanks again!

My two cents as a fairly fellow pinball noob echoes what others have said about supply and demand. I was kind of in the same boat as you trying to decide what next (newer) Stern was on deck with Jurassic Park in mind but when a local opportunity to get a LOTR came up I didn’t want to miss out. I actually purchased my LOTR about less than a year ago after playing it less than 5 times total and not knowing all the rules. I don’t regret it at at all and it’s actually been more fun figuring out the gameplay. It’s probably the pin I play the most now and even though there are longer ball times I actually like the callouts and such. My thought process was that I’m in the “accumulation” phase where I would hold onto them forever (although that may be flawed thinking based on what everyone says) so when an local opportunity came up I jumped on it. Who knows when the next chance to get one would have presented itself. Note that it was one of the dream themes for me so FOMO was real. I’m still looking to get a Jurassic Park but am less stressed knowing they will be around for a while and easier to get than an older pin.

1 week later
#8934 1 year ago
Quoted from F-2NIRO:

Hi everyone, not much time to hang out on the forum these days, so many late orders, new projects that are struggling to be finalized, not to mention the restoration of PF and yet, I work every day without taking any rest .
I will still answer the questions and provide some clarifications.
we made a V2 because, as you know, we are living in a period of crisis which also affects electronic components, the equipment we used for the palantir V1 was increasingly hard to find.
we have therefore migrated to a more consistent and more efficient architecture.
Of course, we had to rewrite the whole program, the card used has a higher storage capacity and we thought why not improve the mod.
this is how two sequences were considered, in addition to the eye of sauron, a sequence with gollum for the hole of the gollum and a sequence with the finger of sauron and its ring with the inscriptions which ignite.
a change of trigger was therefore programmed using the switch matrix, unfortunately, this made a considerable number of bytes and it was impossible to have 3 different sequences, the finger and its ring were planned with the capture of the ball in the ring, but the resolution had to be lowered to save storage memory and the rendering was not satisfactory.
we decided to remove the one of the ring and the finger of sauron, that's it for the story.
in summary, what changes, a LORD OF THE RINGS logo appears at startup, the sequence of the eye on fire is more fluid and of better definition and the sequence of gollum appears when the ball falls into the hole of the gollum.
we added an attrack mod that lets the LOTR logo appear then the eye on fire every 150 seconds of inactivity.
as the triggers are made by the switch matrix, there is more interaction with the lighting..
all this had a cost that I passed on to V2.
for the ring of fire, I increased by 5€ because the components increased a lot and the price had never increased for a long time despite the incessant price increases of the supplies.
the barddur tower has also had its update with a new map and a new, prettier interaction.
i add here a link with the new vidéo sequence.

I may have missed it but how does one purchase this V2 Palantir? I don’t see anything on the market place so is it direct via email?

3 weeks later
#9039 1 year ago
Quoted from blizz81:

I should look into turning Bash Balrog off - around my house it’s pretty common for players to cradle the ball and time the mode out, it’s fairly useless.

Ditto, I find the non multiball Balrog annoying, didn’t know we can turn that off so will also look to do so.

#9077 1 year ago

Is the Consolation Balrog LOTR game adjustment 34 the one to control whether the Balrog blocks the ring path? If so I should turn to No to disable I presume?

3 weeks later
#9153 1 year ago

Well, I’m finally mustering up the courage to try to install the 2Niro Palantir v2 mod. My only modding experience this far has been successfully swapping out the Cointaker plastic with elvish writing on it…just for reference of how limited my skills are.

I’ve watched the YouTube videos and read the instructions. Not sure if it’s totally straight forward because the YouTube was made for v1 but hoping I’m following correctly.

Here’s my plan of attack so please call me out where I’m off.
Here’s what came in the package. My first thing to do is to swap out the control board from the original, which seems to be the this other pic.
Second is to follow the instructions to put on the globe and put the yellow connections cable underneath.

Now for the part I’m hoping someone can provide clarification. The YouTube video shows the yellow 2Niro part plugging into the power cable from the original bulb at the top of the 2Niro block but this version has a 5 prong cable that looks like it should feed into the control board. Is that correct? The original bulb power seems to be a 2 prong so not sure where I’m supposed to connect that to any of the parts that came with the Palantir.

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#9154 1 year ago

Ok, after re-watching the New Control System video my understanding is that all 3 parts plug into each other, as shown in the pic below. Is that correct?

That would mean I would uninstall the original Palantir bulb and nothing gets re-attached to it so it is an open / unused cable going forward?

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#9156 1 year ago
Quoted from Williams95:

I think you are right - I watched the 2:06 video and towards the end (1:50 mark) you can see the original Palantir cable just hanging there (presumably unused going forward). Good luck and let us know how it works out! I'm thinking of getting this mod - it looks great.

Yeah you’re right, good catch. I’m glad to report that the install was successful and pretty straight forward! Attached is the picture of the control board I replaced, only providing because it is upside down compared to the New Control Board video so YMMV.

I will say this is a sweet mod. Seeing the eye as expected is a cool upgrade against the stock Palantir. I was expecting the Gollum visual to only come up when I’ve captured the 9 rings of men and initiate only when the Gollum multiball is triggered but the video appears every time the ball gets into the Gollum/Gimli shot. Definitely not complaining. Also, the one time I was looking when I did activate the Gollum multiball it did appear the video was in sych with the audio which was cool.

Definitely recommend this mod. If I can install then I’m sure anyone can as this was my first real mod ever to put in.

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#9157 1 year ago
Quoted from briyau15:

Yeah you’re right, good catch. I’m glad to report that the install was successful and pretty straight forward! Attached is the picture of the control board I replaced, only providing because it is upside down compared to the New Control Board video so YMMV.
I will say this is a sweet mod. Seeing the eye as expected is a cool upgrade against the stock Palantir. I was expecting the Gollum visual to only come up when I’ve captured the 9 rings of men and initiate only when the Gollum multiball is triggered but the video appears every time the ball gets into the Gollum/Gimli shot. Definitely not complaining. Also, the one time I was looking when I did activate the Gollum multiball it did appear the video was in sych with the audio which was cool.
Definitely recommend this mod. If I can install then I’m sure anyone can as this was my first real mod ever to put in.
[quoted image]

I don’t want to mislead anyone as it seems the video synching with the Gollum audio may have been a coincidence as I haven’t experienced it again the few times I’ve initiated Gollum multiball.

Still recommend the mod regardless.

#9165 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Fantastic! I found my current LOTR in 2018 from the original owner, who rarely played it. It was absolutely stock. Since then, I’ve added so many mods (my fav pin to mod) including Niro Palantir mod, flaming ring, potd platform and figures, Cliffys, LEDs with OCD board, color DMD, ring shooter rod with red acrylic, alternate translite, etched acrylic, volcano mod, Arwen ramp/slide by RedShiftLED, and more. I have the shaker you can customize to react by triggering specific switches, but haven’t installed yet. I should install my separate power supply first. The one major mod I don’t have yet is Pinsound. I’m tempted after hearing yours!

Dang that end credits music gave me chills. What’s the best way for me to purchase this so called Pinsound?

Does it come with the audio already included or is there an entirely separate process to download preferred tracks? I guess I should search for the Pinsound forum.

5 months later
#9598 10 months ago
Quoted from jedi42:

I bought these a couple of years ago and couldnt be happier with the flippers now. Never any fade.

Quoted from APB_Enterprises:

Heya everyone!
These are being distributed through Marco now. The eBay/Pinside store is too much overhead for me, so shifting it to Marco will make them more readily available to everyone and reduce me having to make one off builds of parts.
LOTR LE Medium Power Coils: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/090-5020-20-ND-MED
LOTR Medium Power Coils: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/090-5020-20-MED
Thank you!
Andrew
APB Enterprises

Mine still have the originals I believe and I need to cradle to get up the ramp. Is it widely recommended to get these medium coils? I read when people have swapped out it was too strong and they reverted back but that may have been with the stronger ones.

#9601 10 months ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Have you rebuilt the flippers?

I have haven’t and think they may be original.

#9611 9 months ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Well, either way, you should rebuild them. If you rebuild them and you still have trouble, I guess you can get the more powerful coils, but rebuilt flippers will probably solve your issue.

What goes into rebuilding flippers? Are there a recommended rebuild kits I can purchase?

Also, would i then rebuild flippers first or would I look to replace and install the medium coils at the same time?

#9613 9 months ago

Thanks. I’ll add to the list of work to get done (still need a color dmd so can probably live with the flippers as they are for a bit.)

3 months later
#9749 6 months ago
Quoted from DarthPaul:

I bought two sets, I really wanted four figures. I used different weapons for the figures that were the same. I also placed the two same figures furthest apart. The LEDs came premade as a set of 4 lights, which made things simpler and neater.

Did you use a specific glue to keep them on?

2 months later
#9917 3 months ago

So this may be pretty random but when I got my LOTR it came with the original box, which I’ve kept in the basement storage area. Thought it would be cool to have but am now I’m thinking about tossing to free up space as I’ve run out of storage.

Anyone think it a good idea to keep?

#9919 3 months ago
Quoted from roar:

I personally wouldn't pay any extra for a LOTR if it came with the original box, and I'd probably leave it behind when I picked the game up if that were an option, so I'd vote to toss it.
If you still think it's cool and it makes you happy to know you have the box how much space can it really be taking up? I assume you have it folded flat? Seems like it should take up very little space if it is tucked behind other storage boxes or things that don't move often. If it isn't folded flat, maybe that is its next stage of its journey?

This is the exact answer I was looking for, ha ha. Right now I have 2 boxes that are in the same shape from when they came so will definitely break them down flat to clear up some space. Not sure why I didn’t think of this earlier so thanks!

4 weeks later
#9957 83 days ago
Quoted from pinballlife:

This has been addressed and the LOTR Art Blades are now produced in EXACTLY the same way Stern produces their art blades.
The older LOTR art blades can easily be fixed with a little strategically applied spray adhesive.
The original run of the LOTR art blades are on my machine and are holding fine, but I have had to use spray adhesive on other art blades (excluding Stern).
I assume issues will or will not arise with the older version of the LOTR art blades depending on the particular conditions in your game room, but that's just a guess.
Regardless, the newer run versions will not peel, curl, etc. There was a bit of a learning curve to producing these, especially since I was unable to reproduce the issue on my own machine.
We finally decided to exactly emulate the way Stern produces art blades (which is different than all other manufacturers of art blades) to correct any possible issues. I have Stern art blades on about a dozen of my machines and have never had an issue, so we decided to just figure out how they did it to make ours just as robust.

About to place an order for a shaker motor when I remembered this post. Is it safe to order the Silly Old Elf rendition Art Blades from Pinballlife now and expect them to apply the same as the Stern art blades?

1 week later
#9981 75 days ago

Were all of the action figures that came with the non LE versions sourced from the “Armies of Middle Earth” series?

If so, we’re Legolas and Gimli included?

I know that’s what’s recommended for the path of the dead. After sitting on some figures for a year or so I think I’m going to add them to the playfield. Any recommendations on what to use so they stick?

#9985 75 days ago
Quoted from Valinor:

This was from somewhere earlier in the thread if it helps.
These are what to search for to get the figurines on ebay or amazon or facebook marketplace.
- Frodo & Sam: Attack/Ambush at Weathertop (search eBay: "AOME Weathertop")
- Pippin & Merry: Attack at Amon-Hen (AOME Attack at...you get the idea...)
- Uruk-Hai: 3-Set (Ugluk, Mauhur and Uruk-Hai), NOT the sets with the Battering Ram or Ballista!
- Saruman: Orthanc Chamber
- Gollum: Capture of Smeagol
- Figures for Path of the Dead: Army of the Dead
- Gandalf on Shadowfax is a special edition single figure, LOTR AOME Warriors Beasts Gandalf White on Shadowfax
- Aragorn: Lord of the Rings LOTR Armies of MIddle Earth AOME Aragorn on Horseback Brego
- Dark Rider: LOTR AOME Warriors and Battle Beasts Dark Rider MISB

Awesome, thanks. This is what I was looking for.

I purchased mine from the original owner and it had Frodo, Gollum, Sam, Merry and Pippin on it but also included Aragorn, Saruman, Gandalf with Shadowfax, a Uruk Hai and the dark rider in ziploc bags. I didn’t notice a Legolas, Gimli or Boromir so maybe even the originals didn’t have those three which is odd since they round out the fellowship.

I do see 3 packs that contain those in the AOME collection so will probably get them.

Is superglue a good option to use or is there something better people recommend?

#9997 69 days ago

I purchased a shaker motor to install into my LE a year or so ago but haven’t gotten around to it yet. This past week I installed shaker motors for the first time into my other newer Stern machines and realized it was pretty straight forward so decided to open the LOTR shaker to see this.

Not sure what I’m supposed to do with the cables and interface board so unfortunately not as straightforward as bolting it down and plugging in.

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#9999 69 days ago
Quoted from safaex:

Here you go https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-install-shaker-motor-in-lotr-standard-edition Follow these steps and will work great. Not as simple as in one of the newer sterns but still manageable.

Awesome, thanks!

2 weeks later
#10032 51 days ago

For some reason I couldn’t find it using the search feature and I may have asked this already but does anyone know where I can find a link to the medium powered flippers?

I recall someone saying that a shop doesn’t exist but a user (Andrew?) lists them on eBay?

EDIT: I found previous posts that there were special coils from Andrew @ APB Enterprises. However, it seems his Pinside shop is no longer active and the eBay listings aren’t there. Does anyone know if these are still available?

#10034 51 days ago

Ah, I just found it via post 9595.

Quoted from APB_Enterprises:

Heya everyone!
These are being distributed through Marco now. The eBay/Pinside store is too much overhead for me, so shifting it to Marco will make them more readily available to everyone and reduce me having to make one off builds of parts.
LOTR LE Medium Power Coils: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/090-5020-20-ND-MED
LOTR Medium Power Coils: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/090-5020-20-MED
Thank you!
Andrew
APB Enterprises

My flipper strength in long games gets weaker and weaker. Almost to the point where I’m almost slinging the ball to get up the ramp and when in the 2-ball DTR mode it doesn’t have enough power to knock the ball out of the ring. I recalled reading about these coils about a year ago and never followed through but may now place an order.

#10036 51 days ago
Quoted from safaex:

Pinball life has these special lotr coils and they claim they solve the problems with Flippers getting weaker over time. But my guess is that for really long game sessions you might still need active cooling like Sorokyl said.
https://www.pinballlife.com/lotr-special-flipper-coil-090-5020-2ot.html

Yeah, I’m not sure how the Pinball Life coils are now but the comments years ago were comparing their coils to the APB ones and saying the PBL ones were a bit too powerful whereas the APB ones were just right. Good to have options though.

#10039 50 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

The problem is, if you make your coils more powerful to be "right" after extended run time, you've made them too powerful at the start of the game. The better solution is to keep them cool so they perform the same all the time. And from what I've read here it seems like the stock coils should be sufficient assuming your mechs are in good working order (e.g. don't swap coils if your flipper mechs aren't rebuilt)

The previous posts spoke to this where the PBL ones seem to be too powerful off the bat but these Marco/APB ones seem to be just right. I'm not sure what that really means but hopefully anyone whose had the PBL or Marco/ABP ones can chime in with their recent experience as what I read was from over 5 years ago.

1 week later
#10075 38 days ago

I finally got around to installing a ColorDMD in my LOTR. The install was fine where I used the provided Color DMD power cable to the open 5v cable I had near the coin box.

Game powers up as expected, I was able to download and install the ROM and screen showing color which is way better than the orange screen before.

However, I now noticed that some of the lights now longer work. Specifically the K in KEEP, the O in ORC, and the Legolas and Pippin lights. There may be others but I’ll need to continue playing some modes to verify. Anyone know what the issue may be? Seems like a power but again I plugged the power cable back into the regular power control display panel and the color dmd now has power to the open 5v per the instructions…

Edit: Gimli and Aragorn no longer flash either. Nor do the Pippin and Boromir circle across the bottom of the playfield.

#10077 38 days ago
Quoted from JeepSnob:

Those all run off the yellow-brown wire. Check to make sure it is still connected. See page 5 (PDF page 7) here:
https://www.ipdb.org/files/4858/Stern_2003_The_Lord_of_the_Rings_English_Manual_complete.pdf
There are 10 lights tied to it.

Thanks, any chance it’s this loose wire? If so, any idea where it should be connected to?

IMG_2820 (resized).jpegIMG_2820 (resized).jpeg
#10080 38 days ago
Quoted from JeepSnob:

That looks like the right wire. I’m not at home right now to check mine. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
It goes to pin 9 on J13 of the power board. Lower left side of the power board I believe. Should be screen printed on there.

Thanks. Dumb question but isn’t the power board in the back box?

This is a yellow-brown wire on the bottom of the playfield. I’m hoping I didn’t sever it when putting the playfield back in. It doesn’t seem like it has any give and I don’t see the other piece if I did accidentally cut it. Although it seems like it would be the culprit but I really don’t see where that would go to since it’s just commingled with a bunch of wires and doesn’t seem to have enough slack to go anywhere.

#10083 38 days ago
Quoted from JeepSnob:

Look for a 10-pin connector coming off the wire bundle that has 8 yellow wires, each with different color stripes. One power wire, and one blank.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah I don’t see one 10 pin connector that fits that description.

I guess my fear is that the molex connectors don’t have a wire that seems to be missing so would this open wire mean it’s more than likely that it got cut in half and therefore isn’t supplying the power to the right sources?

The only counter to that is I don’t see the other side of the wire. I’ll keep looking but may need to get a tech out to resolve.

#10085 38 days ago
Quoted from JeepSnob:

From your picture it looks like it got pulled out of a connector rather than cut. The shielding is cut further back than the wire.
I won’t get back to my machine until Friday, but I’ll check then if nobody has chimed in.

Awesome, thanks. I appreciate it.

#10088 38 days ago
Quoted from JeepSnob:

Looked back through some pics I took from my playfield recently (I am troubleshooting my own issue, hehe), and I found this. It has the yellow-brown, but it’s on a 9-pin connector. See if this might be it.
[quoted image]

I think I saw that and it wasn’t missing anything but I’ll check again in the morning.

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

It's quite possible the other end of the broken wire is inside the black shroud. Pretty easy fix actually. Just cut the white cable tie and peel back the black shroud and see if you can find the other end of that wire.

Another thing I’ll check in the morning. I did open the tubing but didn’t see another piece but will take another look.

Assuming that I did sever it, is it a pretty easy fix? I’m guessing I need to get the wire replaced and routed to all the respective lights, which doesn’t sound like a quick job?

#10090 38 days ago

Finally found the other piece. So here’s where my lack of k wiring/soldering knowledge sticks out…can I just twist the medal fiber wires together and try to stick back in?

I’m guessing not and I’d need to exposure the wire on other piece and solder together?

IMG_2823 (resized).jpegIMG_2823 (resized).jpeg
#10093 38 days ago
Quoted from JeepSnob:

That’s a really odd way for the wire to fail. Were you cutting off any cable ties there? Broken wires happen sometimes if there is a lot of flexing, but I’ve not had the shielding fail from flex. You may want to cut some other cable ties to get that wire free enough to work with.

Nope, only thing I’ve done with this machine is install the Palantir mod a year or so ago and then just recently the color dmd 2 days ago. The only thing I can think of is it maybe getting caught when I raised the playfield up but it does seem odd that it appears so clean.

#10109 34 days ago

Is this metal piece that sticks up at the back of the Orthanc tower normal? I never noticed it before but I was having a good game and trying to hit the Gift of the Elves shot for my 5th slice. I usually use the bottom right flipper and wrap the Pippin shot all the way around but for some reason even if I hit a good shot it lost momentum just around the Orthanc shot. Wasn’t happening before in the game.

Then I saw this sticking up and during the game I was thinking if it was like a code to make the last couple slices more challenging but when I drained and started a new game this piece still seems to be up.

Edit: Just played a quick game and even the plunger shot was getting caught on the metal sticking up, forcing the ball into the Orthanc tower. Then when I hit a Merry shot that wrapped around it went over the metal knob post and the post went and stayed down. Is this a gameplay thing where the post comes up and stays up intentionally?
IMG_2852 (resized).jpegIMG_2852 (resized).jpeg

#10111 34 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

It's a diverter. It should not stay up. Raise up the PF and see why it's binding up.

Ah, ok thanks.

#10112 34 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

It's a diverter. It should not stay up. Raise up the PF and see why it's binding up.

Would you happen to know which shots should trigger that diverted? I know the orbit shots for The War of the Ents mode does.

However, when I just qualified Pippin it seems to divert the ball into the Orthanc tower so not sure if that’s correct or not. It may make sense so it doesn’t go all the way to Baradur but a subsequent left orbit shot after Pippin was qualified did make it all the way to Baradur. Then when doing the Witch King mode I hit the left orbit and it diverted into the Orthanc tower.

I can’t recall if this is normal or not as I never really paid attention before. The diverter does seem to be working so I think it would be weird if it’s randomly triggering on orbit shots.

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